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Hi all , can any one recommend a fuse holder type for RC boat , I have tested the schenllboot in the testing tank got all three working but intermittently , motor 1 fuse blown motor 3 smoking ,its a 15 amp 7.2v system.my aim is to replace Halfords fuse holders with ones more suited to model boat cant find any on internet which are specific for model boats , also planning to change wire for mtroniks wire for the fuse holder, programing the ESC works better doing one at a time
Hi TJ, I use spade connectors, sized to fit car type spade fuses, they are available in different colored and sized for different cable thickness. This is ok for inline fuses. look on ebay for fuse blocks for car accessories, they come in different sizes depending how many fuses you need
Have you looked at the Action ones - now Component Shop fuse holders? I've put them in a number of boats and no problems. Good bunch to deal with as well.
I had a look at my suppliers, and found this in Amazon(!). Any good? "DIGITEN waterproof In Line standard Blade Fuse Holder fuses+10A 10Amp kit car boat bike". Good luck with your testing!
I agree with using the ones from component shop. They do single and two gang and as well as using auto fuses (Halfords) the holder has an led that shows red or green depending on motor rotation direction.
Yep!👍 https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p95-indicator-fuse-boards-si... Spec attached as pdf. Strictly speaking the LED simply indicates the polarity of the voltage applied to it. Which way the motor turns depends on how you wired it. But it does help with setting up the wiring and response to TX throttle stick.😉 Easy enough to make though, as I did for my Sea Scout. See pic of 'Engine Room'. Or the Taycol field motor converter boards I've made for Martin and Colin. Two fuses are fitted; one for the field coil, one for the armature. Last two pics. Resettable fuses (contact breakers) are also available to fit these holders. Cheers, Doug 😎
Attached Files - Click To View Large
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Hi Dodgy, The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials. The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite! Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Well, perhaps I exaggerate a bit! I haven't got an example of the twin-output Comet that was mentioned in the 1956 line-up (and which i suspect was a short-lived prototype). But I do have a Marine, which is similarly rare...
Hi all thank you all for advice and comments , I have had a good look at all the suggestion and decided to go for the 3m scotch suitcase type and I will let you know if they are ok. now I have a question for all when choosing motors should you chose a voltage rating equal to the of the battery or higher then the voltage of the battery
Depends what type of motor you want to use. If using a can type dc motor only power to the recommended battery, usually shown on the motor casing. If going brushless, again they are rated to battery size, ie 2s, 3s, etc, but the motors are a lot more flexible as to battery output. Some can cover 3 or 4 battery sizes.
Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made.
Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen!
I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling.
For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them...
If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin bearings if you did that...
I’m using this kind of car fuse holder, on 15 Amps size, the difference is that mi fuse holder it’s mounted using two M3 or 1/8” screws, and have a cover too, very nice from AliExpress
20th Nov 2018 22:19
