All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
Donation History
February 2019: 7 people January 2019: 16 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 10 people
Hello everyone, l am looking for some tips / advice with the planking on the St Canute currently under construction. I have completed 5 planks on each side, but now it’s getting a bit complicated at the stern end. I have sat and thought about it over a few days, do l plank the majority of the hull and leave the stern to plank in small strips of left over planks? I acknowledge that to get the ideal shape there will be some considerable filling and shaping. If anyone out there has some pointers that would be great. Have attached a couple of photos, not very good but will try better photos in the morning. Thanks guys for your time and help, Richard
Hi Richard, Unless you are planning to finish the hull with varnish, to show off the wood, the easiest way is to fit hard balsa or obechi blocks and cut, file and sand to fit. This is the 'way out' I chose on the renovation of my Billing fish cutter. See pics. Pic 1. The mess I started with, Pic 2. Block fitted and shaped, new keel fitted, whole hull then covered inside and out with glass fibre tissue and EzeKote, Pic 3. Preliminary priming prior to final filling (minimal) and sanding, Pic 4. Nearly there 😉 Otherwise you are faced with some tedious steaming, bending and pinning😲 Hope this helps some. Good luck, keep us up to date with progress please👍, Cheers, Doug 😎
Attached Files - Click To View Large
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
I agree with Doug. But the ezepoxy and glass cloth s necessary for strength. I have made the top cowling of my Darby stepped hydro of balsa to save top ham,per, but despite coats of sanding sealer the knocks keep coming and spoiling the surface, so you will need the epoxy/glass combo to get a good finish. And, of course St. Canute is a steel plated ship anyway, so you need a good hard surface to get a decant paint finish that won't show every tap and knock.
Exactamente Oh Grand Master 😁, thanks for the corroboration Martin 👍 BTW: Why/how do you decant your paint? I only do that with a very old Port wine! He he 😁😁
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Doug, I don't decant my paint because you have to wait to de-gas it which I ain't got the patience to do. What made you think I did?
I used the Rustoleum straight from the rattle can, but it's very thin and you have to watch its tendency to run.
The rest is enamel (HRG) bought from the auto paint suppliers and I mix that with a little white spirit and it takes maybe three hours to dry which is fine. Either airbrush (Paasche Model H) or a small spray gun called a spotting or dent gun. Little compressor for the Paasche Model H and bigger one for the spotting gun.
Hi Martin, some nice tips there but really I was only pulling your chain about a small typo! 😁 "to get a decant paint finish". Sorry 🤔😭 I too have a small compressor (without reservoir) for major overhauls, hulls etc and a bigger 'Master Class' job with reservoir etc etc for more exacting jobs. Sometimes when I'm just too lazy to fire 'em up I resort to rattle cans, but ONLY WHEN the job doesn't require any detail working 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
Hello Richard As already mentioned it all depends on the finish required but if like most the hull is to be painted then the importance of having each and every plank trimmed exactly to fit is less important. Some years ago I spent many hours frustrated by my inability to complete a hull as it should have been then after what could only be described as a "bodge" ended up with one of the best looking boats I have built. The purists would shudder and disagree but after all 'life is too short'. This pastime is for enjoyment👍 Regards ChrisG
Hey guys, I cannot thank you all enough for all these suggestions and advice, what a great website this is!!! I am swaying to purchase some blacks of balsa and give this a try, I did the same with my first model of the Billing Boat Norden (much smaller model) but on that occasion the stern block came with the kit. Does anyone have a website that I can purchase these blacks of balsa? I will try my local Hobbycraft store but they are sadly winding down on a lot of items. It is my intention to paint the St Canute the same colours as Billing Boats suggest, so none of the planks will be varnished but I will have a lot of sanding and shaping to do.
Evenin' Richard, don't know if you can buy 'blocks' as such. I bought a 20mm thick by 10cm by 100cm plank. Useful for all sorts of stuff. From Krick here in Germany, sure you can get similar from Cornwall Model Boats or SLEC etc. Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart - slightly older in other places 😉 Cheers Doug
On E Bay/Amazon etc you can find "Hobby Packs" or "Balsa Bundles" These contain Block and sheet balsa in random sizes about 8/10 inches long; velly cheep and really handy. Many is ?are the models I made using them and a tube of cement.Used to be two prices 6p&1/-. Aaaaah those were the days. Thinking about it I think SLEC, BALSA CABIN and the like do them. Can't be selective about densities though.👍
Aha, the old 6d and 1/- shilling takes me back to my first model making days with Keilcraft balsa kits such as the Mermaid, in those days l could buy a kit with two weeks paperboy wages!
Thanks for the memory and about the packs of Balsa.... Richard
26th Sep 2018 17:30
