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>> Home > Photos > Aerokits

Showing page 1 of 6   |   Jump to page: 1   2   3   4   5   6
Scrumpy 3 - Posted: 1 month ago by Penfold63
😆Hello everyone. I’m a relative novice with 3 projects on the go at the moment. Project 1 is a Riva Aquarama, which stalled at the stringer stage. Project 2 is a smaller Riva Aquarama which stalled at the planking stage. Project 3 is an Aerokits Sea Commander, photos to follow. Kit delivered Tues last week and spent about 4 hours on it so far. Keen to hear of any motor/shaft mods anyone recommends. Thanks

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Fast Patrol Launch - Posted: 4 months ago by wunwinglo
This Fast Patrol Launch was originally built by me and my father in'62/3 It was my entry into marine modelling. Initially free-running with a tiny old school blue-cased Mabuchi, it was never 'fast' -as a result it was recomisioned several times over the years but remained dull. In 2013, it was refitted yet again but this time she got a nice potent brushless and a full array of lights. Now she goes very well here at the Oxford lake.

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Classic sports boat - Posted: 5 months ago by Imcc
Only been building for about a year now. This was the first boat I made. Nice and easy 😁

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Response by RNinMunich on the 24th Sep 2017
Very neat boat 👍 Love the finish on the hull 👍👍
and another Jura fan I see, is that Superstition I see there?
Slainte 😜, Doug 😎
Response by Imcc on the 25th Sep 2017
Found it helped with the tricky bits 😁
Response by RNinMunich on the 25th Sep 2017
I'll drink to that 👍😉
Jaydee - Posted: 9 months ago by IanD
Now has name and "port of origin" plus flag and is performing well. Still has a leak and I think the engine tends to run hot. I'm considering changing the original 3-bladed prop for 2-bladed one as I'm told that will cause the engine to draw less power from the battery. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of mod?

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Response by IanD on the 29th Sep 2017
Hi Dave
I've attached a photo of the prop as you asked. You can just see where I've shaved it down. This seems to have eased the overheating considerably. You can also see the water inlet for the cooling system that was used with the original diesel engine. This is now piped directly to the outlet on the port side (you can see it working in some of the action photos). The other photo is a fore/aft view of the central bay which contains the motor, ESC and battery.

Response by Dave M on the 29th Sep 2017
Hi Ian
It's a racing prop and will use lots of power hence the heat.
As you have a cabin cruiser it does not need such a coarse pitch prop and changing to a prop with a lesser pitch will improve your running time and produce less heat. Performance will depend on the chosen prop but should not be much different from what you already experience.
As you already have a water cooler inlet and outlet you could just wrap some copper tube round the motor and connect with silicon tubing to keep the heat down
Response by IanD on the 2nd Oct 2017
Many thanks Dave. I'll see what I can do and let you know the result.
Jaydee - Posted: 10 months ago by IanD
This Aerokits "Sea Commander" was built C.1961 by my father with ED Mk4 diesel engine and his own scratch designed and built radio/receiver ( I have all his design documents). He raced it successfully in the early '60s but hadn't used it in years when I inherited it. Have now replaced the IC motor (mothballed carefully) with MFA Torpedo 500 but it runs a bit slowly ("river cruising" scale speed). Looking to obtain semi-planing but not racing speed.

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Response by John on the 30th Apr 2017
I would use a brushless motor.
Response by IanD on the 1st May 2017
Thanks Johnlikessailing. However, I have now replaced MFA 500 with Mtroniks 600 and got much better performance, although I'm not sure how much of this was due to the change of motor and how much was due to rectifying the slippage due to a loose grub-screw on the connection between the motor drive shaft and the universal joint that I found when I removed it! (Lesson - beware of alternative causes of problems!) Now I just need to sort out a leak - hardly a surprise on a 50 yr old model! Hey-ho!
Response by John on the 1st May 2017
Glad you got it sorted in the end. Good luck with the leak!
FELIX - Posted: 11 months ago by Inkoust
Kit German port boat. The drive motor 500, LIPO 4000 mA. Hilarious kit from Crick. Combination of ABS and timber. Everything needed for the position of the boat is the content of the kit. Still under construction. Painted hull and superstructure, glazed windows, left mast and lighting.

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Sea Queen - Posted: 2 years ago by topperles
Bought as a wreck off ebay . stripped down,repaired hull and top sides. re positioned the propshaft. Re painted. New Brushless motor/ Lipos etc. Goes quite well for an old girl, Believed originally built in the 60's. Ill try to upload a video of her strutting her stuff on Wibsey Park lake in Bradford.
Edit: I've managed to upload a video of her in action on u tube ,see link below

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Response by ron1956 on the 8th Dec 2016
Thats a very nice boat, enjoyed the video, thank you for posting it,Im just getting started with boats and enjoy seeing vids of them in action. Would like to have a go at building one when I have more time, thanks again 😀 😀
Response by ned on the 16th Oct 2017
Hello, I have just joined the Webb site, and am relative new to boats. I have just finished and got in the water a boat which looks similar to yours, started by my now deceased father in the 70's... But the point of my questions how have you made your hatch's, especially the one on the rear of your boat water tight? mine are not and leak in when out on the pond.
Thank you for you time, hope you can help.😊
Response by RNinMunich on the 16th Oct 2017
Hi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍
On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. It had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there!
My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲
Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎
Aerokits Sea Hornet - Posted: 2 years ago by sigfortunata
Kit built but I scrapped the plywood for mahogany as I wanted something in the "Riva" Style.
Powered by a 1000kv brushless on 11.1v, its quick across the water and very stable.

I sail with the Potteries MBC in Stoke.

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Response by Northumbrian on the 5th Jan 2017
where did you get your figures from they are exactly what i need for my Chris Craft speedboat
Bob 🤔
Response by John on the 30th Apr 2017
nice job 👍
Response by circle43nautical on the 11th Dec 2017
BRAVO ZULU! Nice boat, it reminds me of my brother's 13' 1956 Penyan that he completely restored back in the 90s. Love the mahogany btw.
Aerokits PT Boat - Posted: 4 years ago by Dave Kershaw
Just started work on the Torpedoes for My Aerokits PT Boat, the ones In the kit don't look quite right,

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Response by bikerjohn57 on the 28th Apr 2014
HI again Dave

So sorry, I didn't realise (lack of concentration) that I was communicating with the same person In two different conversations.
That will teach me to look at who I am talking too.

Polishing your nuts round In a drill, now that does sound painful !!!! Ouch

All joking aside small engineering projects are just not my forte. I'm more your blacksmith type If you get my meaning.

If I do purchase the moulded Perkasa (whichever one)
I can see It now, Glue everywhere !!!!!.
Well maybe not that bad, but you know what I mean.

Response by Northumbrian on the 19th Oct 2015
HI Dave
I have bookmarked your web site there is loads of info for the Perkasa
cheers Bob 👍
Response by John on the 30th Apr 2017
I look forward to seeing it on the water 😁
RAF Crash Tender 46in - Posted: 4 years ago by michael1
HI this was my winter project the hull was given to me by my son who got It at a car boot sale It had been on fire as It was driven by a petrol engine In now has twin brushless motors with 45mm props but going to put 50mm props on when they come as It needs a little bit more speed Built from a set of plans this my first go at this as I build from kits In the past cabins made out of 3mm/1.5m ply and some 1.5mm balsa wood . Hull was sprayed and the deck and cabins brushed with enamel paint.

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Response by Dave M on the 10th Feb 2014
What ESC's are you using? Battery capacity? Do you know the max current your Thumbrun and ESC's can take?
If possible I suggest you use a Wattmeter (a fellow club member may have one) to see what the position Is at the waters edge, this will be a worst case as the model will be stationary and drawing max amps.
Brushless motors are power hungry and for max performance work best with LiPo's. Ideally the ESC should have a max rating greater (50%) than the max motor current. Unlike brushed ESC's lowering the throttle setting does not reduce the current flow but does Increase the heat generated. My experience Is brushed motors work best on smaller props. I suggest you check the heat of your setup after a short one circle run when you fit the new props. Look forward to hearing how you fare. Good luck 😀
Response by michael1 on the 11th Feb 2014
I have to disagree when you say that brushless motors are power hungry I have one more boat on a brushless and get a longer run than with brush motors a lot of members In our club use brushless with good results
Response by Dave M on the 11th Feb 2014
I agree brushless give excellent results and will outperform brushed motors any day, provided they are set up correctly.
Power hungry was possibly a poor use of words. My point was that brushless electronics can and do draw very heavy currents which LiPo's are able to supply, and are very light weight.
We use brushless on many model at my club and for performance and endurance they can't be beaten. 👍 😀

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