Fast Patrol Launch - Posted: 17 days ago by wunwinglo
This Fast Patrol Launch was originally built by me and my father in'62/3 It was my entry into marine modelling. Initially free-running with a tiny old school blue-cased Mabuchi, it was never 'fast' -as a result it was recomisioned several times over the years but remained dull. In 2013, it was refitted yet again but this time she got a nice potent brushless and a full array of lights. Now she goes very well here at the Oxford lake.
Attached Photos - Click To View Large
Classic sports boat - Posted: 2 months ago by Imcc
Only been building for about a year now. This was the first boat I made. Nice and easy 😁
Now has name and "port of origin" plus flag and is performing well. Still has a leak and I think the engine tends to run hot. I'm considering changing the original 3-bladed prop for 2-bladed one as I'm told that will cause the engine to draw less power from the battery. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of mod?
I have changed the prop to a 2-bladed one without loss of performance but still had to reduce it's size to stop the motor overheating - to do this I simply ran the motor out of the water and held a file against the rotating prop! - crude but did the job!
Hi Dave, The original prop was about 42mm as was the 2-bladed replacement before I filed it down to approx. 38mm. The battery is a Ni-mh 7.2v 3700mAh 6-cell VP racing battery. As you can see from the photos I am getting a semi-planeing speed which is what I wanted as I think it looks "right" for this model. It is true that the boat is rather heavy but that is because I have left my father's old 1960's transistorised receiver in situ, partly out of sentimentality and partly because it seems to balance the boat nicely.
Hi Ian Looking at the pics it would appear to sit correctly and certainly planes well. If your ballast is forrard it will mean it has to be lifted to plane, at the cost of increased power. If you are still using the Mtronics 600 motor the prop is about right. The specs say 6-12v so running at 7.2 v will probably account for the heating problem. A higher voltage will allow the motor to run at its optimum design speed and cooler. The stall current is 48 amps! I am assuming you have a good a free running prop shaft and tube and the motor and coupling are aligned? Can you post a pic of your prop? Dave
Hi Dave I've attached a photo of the prop as you asked. You can just see where I've shaved it down. This seems to have eased the overheating considerably. You can also see the water inlet for the cooling system that was used with the original diesel engine. This is now piped directly to the outlet on the port side (you can see it working in some of the action photos). The other photo is a fore/aft view of the central bay which contains the motor, ESC and battery.
Hi Ian It's a racing prop and will use lots of power hence the heat. As you have a cabin cruiser it does not need such a coarse pitch prop and changing to a prop with a lesser pitch will improve your running time and produce less heat. Performance will depend on the chosen prop but should not be much different from what you already experience. As you already have a water cooler inlet and outlet you could just wrap some copper tube round the motor and connect with silicon tubing to keep the heat down Dave
This Aerokits "Sea Commander" was built C.1961 by my father with ED Mk4 diesel engine and his own scratch designed and built radio/receiver ( I have all his design documents). He raced it successfully in the early '60s but hadn't used it in years when I inherited it. Have now replaced the IC motor (mothballed carefully) with MFA Torpedo 500 but it runs a bit slowly ("river cruising" scale speed). Looking to obtain semi-planing but not racing speed.
Thanks Johnlikessailing. However, I have now replaced MFA 500 with Mtroniks 600 and got much better performance, although I'm not sure how much of this was due to the change of motor and how much was due to rectifying the slippage due to a loose grub-screw on the connection between the motor drive shaft and the universal joint that I found when I removed it! (Lesson - beware of alternative causes of problems!) Now I just need to sort out a leak - hardly a surprise on a 50 yr old model! Hey-ho!
Kit German port boat. The drive motor 500, LIPO 4000 mA. Hilarious kit from Crick. Combination of ABS and timber. Everything needed for the position of the boat is the content of the kit. Still under construction. Painted hull and superstructure, glazed windows, left mast and lighting.
Bought as a wreck off ebay . stripped down,repaired hull and top sides. re positioned the propshaft. Re painted. New Brushless motor/ Lipos etc. Goes quite well for an old girl, Believed originally built in the 60's. Ill try to upload a video of her strutting her stuff on Wibsey Park lake in Bradford. Edit: I've managed to upload a video of her in action on u tube ,see link below https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fn7LxmND-8g
Thats a very nice boat, enjoyed the video, thank you for posting it,Im just getting started with boats and enjoy seeing vids of them in action. Would like to have a go at building one when I have more time, thanks again 😀 😀
Hello, I have just joined the Webb site, and am relative new to boats. I have just finished and got in the water a boat which looks similar to yours, started by my now deceased father in the 70's... But the point of my questions how have you made your hatch's, especially the one on the rear of your boat water tight? mine are not and leak in when out on the pond. Thank you for you time, hope you can help.😊
Hi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍 On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. It had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there! My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲 Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎
Looking good, to what scale are they? only ask as those props would look great on my 1/32 Perkasa torps, did you buy them or are you one of those talented people who make there own, envious as hell me, I couldn't make custard Ha Ha.
RAF Crash Tender 46in - Posted: 4 years ago by michael1
HI this was my winter project the hull was given to me by my son who got It at a car boot sale It had been on fire as It was driven by a petrol engine In now has twin brushless motors with 45mm props but going to put 50mm props on when they come as It needs a little bit more speed Built from a set of plans this my first go at this as I build from kits In the past cabins made out of 3mm/1.5m ply and some 1.5mm balsa wood . Hull was sprayed and the deck and cabins brushed with enamel paint.
What ESC's are you using? Battery capacity? Do you know the max current your Thumbrun and ESC's can take? If possible I suggest you use a Wattmeter (a fellow club member may have one) to see what the position Is at the waters edge, this will be a worst case as the model will be stationary and drawing max amps. Brushless motors are power hungry and for max performance work best with LiPo's. Ideally the ESC should have a max rating greater (50%) than the max motor current. Unlike brushed ESC's lowering the throttle setting does not reduce the current flow but does Increase the heat generated. My experience Is brushed motors work best on smaller props. I suggest you check the heat of your setup after a short one circle run when you fit the new props. Look forward to hearing how you fare. Good luck 😀
I have to disagree when you say that brushless motors are power hungry I have one more boat on a brushless and get a longer run than with brush motors a lot of members In our club use brushless with good results
I agree brushless give excellent results and will outperform brushed motors any day, provided they are set up correctly. Power hungry was possibly a poor use of words. My point was that brushless electronics can and do draw very heavy currents which LiPo's are able to supply, and are very light weight. We use brushless on many model at my club and for performance and endurance they can't be beaten. 👍 😀
Just nearly finished my sea queen and had one outing and It did all I wanted. Scale speed and very plesed with It. Standard motor and 12 volt battery. It was last winters project but only just finished. My 1st motor boat as my others are sail.
Looking good. Glad to hear your early sail went well. I am In the process of restoring a Sea Queen and have just about managed to remove all the old coats of paint. As I am using a brushless motor and Lipo battery there Is ample space and I Intend to complete the cockpit detail. I see yours Is quite open, did you resource a particular style? I can't seem to find much In the way of detail, certainly not from the plan.
HI dave I am currently looking to finish the cockpit but the bits that came with the kit were a bit naff. I have put a shelf In and created a door frame to the cabin. I am looking to put steering wheel , morse control and Instruments ,maybe a seat. I will post some more pics when complete.
HI Roger Noticed the door and believe the captain probably stood but not sure If seats were fitted. Maybe I'll look at some full size cruisers for more detail. I have looked at other Sea Queens for Inspiration but this detail Is mainly lacking. I have seen a control type panel on one model placed to the right of the cockpit looking forward but at this scale quite a bit of detail should be shown. I will ask Malcolm Reade of Reade plastics If he has any Ideas as his dad was providing fittings during the Aeorkits period and he may have more details. I will keep you posted 😀
Will be pretty similar In both types as controls are fairly standard. Probably a compass and chart table If sea going. Malcolm Reade Is sending me some fittings so will advise further when received Cheers dave