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All Recent Posts
DAMEN STAN 4207 by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 18 minutes ago
Often see the real ship sailing in an out of Ramsgate, great model! Regards Dave

Lightship by jtdavid Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 hours ago
few more photos. also i have put a led flashing light in as well on 3 little earing aide batterys david

Pics of running gear and skins by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 hours ago
The pic posted by Inkoust says it all really. The original Aerokits and many other models from the 1960s all had steep angled propshafts. This was necessary to allow for the large IC engines fitted. Modern electric motors do not require the same depth inside the hull so the prop shaft can be mounted at a much lesser angle, producing a faster and more controllable model. It would be relatively easy to alter your set-up before you add the rest of the skins. Even with a 50mm prop there is still about an inch to lose. I appreciate this may not be your first choice but believe the end result will justify the effort Dave

Oil Sump for Gearbox? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 hours ago
Hi Inkoust I think we have already discounted an oil bath. Sorry but grease should never be used in any gearbox unless it is completely enclosed as any dirt or grit that gets into the grease will destroy both the bearings and gears. A light oiling before each sail will provide all the lubrication required. Dave

Oil Sump for Gearbox? by Inkoust Captain   Posted: 6 hours ago
Hello, I do not know if it's good to put an oil bathtub in the boat. I think it would be enough to use the grease that they give to the racing car models. I used it a few times and it was great. Grease stays on gears and is not thrown away. Then only the cover of the gearbox is sufficient to prevent the ship from being accidentally wiped. But I prefer to use 6V power motors for 12V and 24V instead of gears. They then have a low current take-off and a small turn, and yet have sufficient force for the bigger bolt. Zdeněk

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
That's what it's apparently generally come to mean 😎 What you describe is a Cardan Shaft or double Cardan joint!

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 hours ago
That's interesting, didn't know that! Always thought it only became a cardan when a short shaft had a UJ at each end to to change the drive plane. Live and learn!😁

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
Hi, Strictly speaking the UJ is a Cardan link! Named after Jerome Cardan (Geronimo Cardano) †1576 Italian mathematician, its inventor. 😉 Whatever! fid - if it feels good - do it! Main thing is to enjoy what you are doing. 👍 We all just wanted to help you avoid disappointment with the performance.😭 Greetings also to Zdenek in Prague. He knows what he's doing folks! Check out some of the magnificent ships he has built - here http://www.inkoust.estranky.cz 👍👍👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Paint removal by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
Thanks onetenor

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
All getting involved now! I suspect it looks worse in the pictures because the prop thrust will definitely pass over the rudder although perhaps not ideally. And I don't have a cardan shaft, just a uj because as I said, simple appealled for a part time hobby as this is to me. My aim was to see if I could form the wooden hull like my Dad did on the fireboat cos I always admired the shape but of course I would like to finish the job eventually 😀

Lightship by Inkoust Captain   Posted: 10 hours ago
Beautiful work, original piece. Keep it up. Art is built according to the plans and not the kit.👍

Pics of running gear and skins by Inkoust Captain   Posted: 10 hours ago
Like that

Slowly does it. by Inkoust Captain   Posted: 10 hours ago
Exactly the ship's screw should be behind the rudder so that the ship responds well and if the shaft is below that angle, the boat will crawl in turns in the water. I would also avoid connecting the shaft with the kardan engine. Just a smaller branch in the water and the kardan bursts. I use the Compact shaft - the motor is screwed directly to the shaft and connected by an aluminum clutch and tightened by screws. Then less tilt of the shaft can be achieved. Or if the kardan engine on the bulkhead in the ship is bolted and does not get as great vibration as in your design.

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
Ah well, thanks for that! I think you and Sonar are quite right, and no doubt better qualified to comment. Certainly the motor could be lower but I hesitated about moving it forward because of the weight distribution which I thought would be better at least halfway or more aft. As for prop sizes, again I am largely guessing what might work, on the fireboat I have a fifty mm z two blade which seems to work well without the motor getting hot but that has a slower, torquey motor, so smaller will probably be appropriate with the 750s. In truth I'll leave it as it is until I can trial it, probably a few years away, and if it is a disaster then I can still change it then😉

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Thanks for all the advice. I am on with the sanding which will take some time.