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    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    I did a lot of amp/watts/rpm and gps speed testing with my twin screw 4 foot fireboat, you might wnat to take a look. The quickest and easiest, and by far cheapest route is change from s prop to x prop thus increasing the pitch. They are real cheap to buy (plasic ones)so get a couple of sizes, start with the smallest. You can buy cheap inline amp meters, so using this you can see how the amp draw alters
    6 hours ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    My Mtroniks 1000KVA rated at 15A motor does not give my boat enough speed with a 35mm S type Prop. If I wanted to increase the speed, can I just increase the prop size or would I have to increase the motor size as well? What is the rule of thumb for increasing speed of the boat?
    11 days ago by StuartE
    Forum
    sea rover build and I hate wood!
    thanks Rob, I was thinking it was going to have to be soaked, which would have been a pain! Ill heat gun, once the skins are on, and the hull is glassed, it should be back to the territory I like!
    6 hours ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    sea rover build and I hate wood!
    so here I am again, helping with a deceased estate, but this time he was a model plane flier, his widow put out a message asking if some kind soul would finish a boat he had started, as I have boat experience, all eyes looked in my direction, I didn't even know the chap! but help was required, so my hand went up. I only do ebay rescues, refurbs, and so on, never wanted to do a scratch build, in fact, I hate working with wood, so I thought it would be something that wanted a cosmetic job, wrong, its a slec kit, and still wants a load of work. So, after weeks of putting it off, I took a close look, I have plans, instructions, and all the wood, when looking careful, there is a note inside the hull saying happy Christmas 2018 to my wife, it was going to be a present for her as she always wanted to sail a model boat on the Hoylake (Wirral) lake as they lived right by it, so now its pulling at my heart strings and needs to be completed, thats where you lot come in. Whats the next job! how do I bend the wood, do I trim it now, or after its glued up ! Help please!
    1 day ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    sea rover build and I hate wood!
    Hi Paul. Welcome back, it's been a while πŸ˜€ Look back at the early stages of my Crash Tender build, the sequence and methods of that should be a good guide to way to do it. This method of construction was pretty much common to all the AeroKits boats. Here's my blog: https://model-boats.com/blogs/23951 Tip. Use a heat gun to bend the skins, the heat relaxes the glue between the plys and when it cools the bend is quite well set. Much easier that hot water and steam, I did this for my Thames Police Launch and it works great. Rob.
    18 hours ago by robbob
    Response
    Re: 34" Crash Tender
    I don’t remember McGregor offering kits in those days. They may have, but the cost would probably been out of my reach. There were companies who advertised in RCM&E who offered kits to build radio equipment, often based on articles in the mag. My 27MHz set was scratch built. I worked for a company at the time that had an engineering workshop that I could take advantage of at lunchtime. So the case was folded from aluminium sheet and then covered with red vinyl. The sticks were turned from Perspex. The circuit board was etched in the lab. Sadly I got a better job elsewhere and lost access to the workshop 😠
    7 hours ago by Graham93
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Excellent, And I bet they are a lot cheaper too. Martin.
    9 hours ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, After having discussions with long term standing members of this site l have decided to start this hints and tips section. The idea behind this is to help fellow model makers, And to give the new Guys to this hobby a hand with learning new skills and techniques. So please feel free to add your knowledge to it.As I am sure that it will benefit many of us. Martin. Good idea MartinπŸ‘, a substitute for the dearly departed forum categories! Pitch in lads 😊 Cheers, Doug BTW; I'm more of a 'sitting' member, typing is difficult while standing πŸ˜‚πŸ€£ Hi Guys, I will kick this off with the baking sheet tip. I use is grease proof paper(baking sheet) to help when gluing plastic card. After I have marked out the joints on the paper I then put a small dab of plastic glue on the line and place the first part, after a short time the glue has set I then do the same again with the second part then glue the two parts together. When your assembly is completed you just gently pull the grease proof paper off, then clean the remaining bits of glue of with a scalpel. Martin.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Some time ago I bought a whole load of cycle spokes - which are rods with one end threaded. They were very useful as push-rods...
    9 hours ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: 40" Seaplane Tender, new build F
    Hi Jb, Nice bit of laminating. Martin.
    10 hours ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Come on Martin -.-. --- -- . --- -. -- .- .-. - .. .- Stop Morsing around ... - --- .--. -- --- .-. ... .. -. --. .- .-. --- ..- -. -.. What is the solution? .-- .... .- - .. ... - .... . ... --- .-.. ..- - .. --- -. ..--.. --.- . -.. John πŸ˜‰
    13 hours ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    R/C aircraft elev, rudd, ail push-rods come with threaded rod, clevises etc. You can cut them to whatever length you need, (same as yours Doug but with all the bits. Graupner used to make some really fine push-rods in the 70s which I had a truckload of (still have bits left) but they disappeared with all the good stuff from Graupner years ago (Chinese ARF market killed them a bit.)
    12 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    When I needed an extra long connection the length of my submarine to the rudder I used a home made Bowden type cable. Stranded steel wire from the garden centre craft shop set in a styrene tube. 😎 Now back to clearing up the terrace / garden after storm damage 🌧️πŸŒͺ️🌩️😠
    13 hours ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    40" Seaplane Tender, new build F
    Finished fairing hull and correcting chine curve. Glassed hull tonight using 6oz cloth and West System epoxy resin. Took a few hours to dry even though I was using fast hardener due to cold weather, and when still flexible, trimmed off the excess cloth. Will give it a day and de-wax and sand it before giving it another coat of resin, then it will be on to sanding, filling and fairing again. Hull weighed 720g before glassing and 920g after ( probably end up around 1kg filled and painted)
    13 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    40" Seaplane Tender, new build
    Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976 Model Boats mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. ) I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the frames to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the frames were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it. The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the frames,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.) Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get sheets to go round the compound curves. Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc. The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored. The model will use brushed 540 motors with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project. Model Boats frames boat sheets Landcruiser motors ESCs πŸ‘ Like πŸ’¬ Comment πŸ—£οΈ Share 5
    5 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Coming soon. S ... Martin.
    7 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    They are a really good idea Martin, I've been using them since the 60s in boats and planes. To add to your idea, some other slightly stronger items to try are R/C plane wheel collars (steel or brass) which are available in different IDs. I found that sometimes the brass terminals (electrical) will split at the bottom if you use a bit much force and can come loose. A couple of wheel collars hang on pretty well, and don't have any screws sticking out to catch on things. (I've had partially jammed rudders now and again)
    13 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    My way of repairing a damaged balsa deck with no internal access. 1-cut away carefully the damaged planks. 2-cut a piece of ply or hardboard so that it just fits diagonally through the hole. 3-drill a small hole in the centre an fit a piece of cord with a knot at the back. 4-pass it through the hole making sure you don't let go, apply industrial strength super glue all around the edge and Pull up into the correct position and support by hanging the weight of the model plus a weight to pull up any indentation. 5-after the glue has set, glue the cord in place then trim off flush with the board. 6-check the fit of the removed wood and if necessary cut new pieces. Then glue it onto place using balsa cement. 7-once set, carefully rub down and re-varnish. Followed by a rub down and as many coats as necessary. I tend to do 6 coats. Sorry for the lack of photos but the app won't let me upload any more. Gone to my Web browser and added the new pictures. Will post more after doing the the finishing varnish coats. πŸ€” Cheers Colin.
    2 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Oh be serious,- Latin? REALLY Doug!!
    13 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Lack of spaces had me stuffed!
    14 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: The Battery Box & Power Switch
    Nice battery box idea. Just a thought though, the Deans type connectors are a lot smaller than the XT60s (50%) an a lot easier to get apart in a confined space (especially in emergencies) I had to do a one side fixed method in one of my planes due to lack of room using XT60s, as there was no way to grip and separate both. There is a tool available to separate them apparently, (I was thinking of modding a pair of circlip pliers) XT 60s are more for high amp use (eg 30A plus), also the Deans are brown which would not clash with your woodwork, should you need to leave one exposed (although I can't imagine you leaving the battery box lidless ! PS don't have the battery box too tight as sometimes the batteries (although supposed to be the same specs) can come a few mm larger, also in case the battery 'puffs' as it degrades. Heat shouldn't be a problem but is something to think about.
    14 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: Brass Cabin Trim.
    Another nice touch!
    14 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    -.-. --- -- . --- -. -- .- .-. - .. .- ... - --- .--. -- --- .-. ... .. -. --. .- .-. --- ..- -. -.. .-- .... .- - .. ... - .... . ... --- .-.. ..- - .. --- -. ..--.. 😎
    16 hours ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Ah...of course.......Morse Code ! Should have sussed that long ago! -.-. .-.. . ...- . .-. ....... -... ..- --. --. . .-. Rob.
    17 hours ago by robbob
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    PUSH ROD JOINERS Hi Guys, This little tip is probably well known. To lengthen my pushrods I use electrical terminal blocks, I cut of the plastic insulation and just use the metal part. Martin.
    18 hours ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: 6 years on
    Hi Paul. We all know about 'buyer's remorse' but you're suffering from 'sellers remorse'. My Crash Tender build was very much influenced by your boat and I'm not ready to part with it yet. But I feel your pain πŸ˜‰ Best Regards. Rob
    18 hours ago by robbob
    Response
    Re: Brass Cabin Trim.
    Thanks Martin. I'm going to add a little bit more cabin detail soon, there's a curved spray deflector on the roof and some grab handles on the rear edge, you can see them in the NMM 'photo. Rob.
    18 hours ago by robbob
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    S t e a m p u f f e r!
    18 hours ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Re: Wee Nip, Ruf Red
    Hi Steve. Nice, I have never sailed a boat without a motor, it must feel a little strange to operate. You certainly have a good friend. Martin.
    18 hours ago by Martin555
    Directory
    Wee Nip, Ruf Red
    Wee Nip, Ruf Red. Donated to me by a friend. Radio; frsky telemetry, battery voltage, Hitec sail winch. She sails well and is quite enjoyable, even I my unskilled hands.
    19 hours ago by stevedownunder
    Forum
    sea rover build and I hate wood!
    If you have the full set of instructions they should give you the order in which to do things. From memory of building the original Aerokits, I would have put the side wood on first, so that the final joint between the two skins would be covered by the rubbing strakes. But with modern glue this is probably less important. Do put the deck on last, however - you don't want to have the edge of the ply sides visible around the outside of the deck. Does the Sea Rover have a balsa block at the lower bow? If so, you only need to bend the wood round onto the first former, and there will be very little trimming needed, just around the keel. You glue onto the keel and the chine, overlapping the chine, and only trim the outer part of the wood back to the chine when it is dry and hard. Similarly for the hull sides - sand the formers and chine to a flat surface, then glue the wood overlapping the chine and deck, then trim once dry. If the kit has no balsa block and you have to fit the skin precisely to the hull, it can help to make up a cardboard or paper template first, to get the shape close to accurate. One technique for final shaping involves positioning the skin along the straight part of the keel, securing it at the transom with a small wood screw, and then swinging it round to match against the bow, swinging it back out to sand down the high spots, and then swinging it back to check the match again... Soaking the sides for an hour in warm water, or steaming them will also help them to bend easily. If you soak them, pin them in place without glue and allow them to dry overnight - they should then be easy to unpin, add glue and reassemble. For the side you will need to cut the ply sheet so that it locates nicely along the stem. The original kits had a set of small brass 'gimp pins' to hammer in and hold the wood in place - modern glues will probably hold well enough without these. But you will need clamps, rubber bands and blocks of wood to keep an even pressure on. Watch out to avoid twisting the hull. Check that it is built straight at the moment, and then put the wood sides on as a pair to lower stresses. If the hull is already twisted, you may need to losen some of the chines and reglue! Looking at the pictures, it seems to me that the piece of wood which acts as the rebate on the stem may not be accurately fitted - it looks as if the top is a bit far back. And it also looks as if the motor shaft is not precisely in line with the prop-shaft. These may just be artefacts of the picture, of course. But if they are really as I have suggested, now is the time to correct them, before the sides are on. I would also glue the prop-tube onto the former it is going through for extra support.... So: 1 - check build quality and amend if necessary 2 - confirm internal hardware (motor, rudder and R/C) is properly in place. 3 - add the wooden hull bottom and sides You might like to draw planking lines of the deck before adding that? Although I hear that in some modern kits these are pre-drawn...
    20 hours ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Aha! .../-/./.-/--/ /.--./..-/..-./..-././.-./ !! 😎
    20 hours ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    Steam Pub🎈🎈🎈🎈
    20 hours ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    ... _ . . _ _ _ . _ _ . u . . _ Martin.
    22 hours ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Brass Cabin Trim.
    Hi Robbob, Nice touch, That is a really super model. Excellent workmanship. Well done. Martin.
    22 hours ago by Martin555
    Blog
    6 years on
    cant believe this was 6 years ago, I sold the boat a year ago to fund other RC Projects, but you know when something leaves your manshed, and the very next day you regret it! Hopefully its getting use from the new owner, as it was sitting in the box in my possession, which was a shame☹️
    1 day ago by pmdevlin
    Blog
    Aerokits 46" twin screw brushless conversion
    Today I had a run with the new batteries, and It was a great success. I wasn't after more speed, although I couldn't help myself seeing how fast It would go, but wanted more efficiency, which didn't happen as I went too fast, and better run time. When you have a big lake all to yourself on a sunny bank holiday morning, you just got to open It up. Data logging was on board, so with 5 cells per motor, almost 20 mins going fast most of the time, I recorded 25.3mph which Is stupid speed for this boat as It Is so heavy now and a whopping 939watts, 51.82 amps, which are maximum spikes. On a smaller lake It would last a lot longer, but I like speed! πŸ˜€
    5 years ago by pmdevlin
    Blog
    Brass Cabin Trim.
    A rather nice feature on the NMM model are some brass trims on the rear pillars of the cabin and I found a β€˜photo of one of the real boats that clearly shows the trims so I decided to add these to my model too. The brass sheet I used for this is only 0.3mm thick and can be fairly easily be cut by scoring heavily with a strong knife blade and then snapping. The cut edges show no sign of deformation and are easily smoothed and finished with a file. The strips are about 6mm wide and each strip was trimmed to fit the upper part of the cabin pillars and the lower curved portion formed by careful bending over a suitably sized former. They are held in place with a few spots of superglue and after a final cleaning with fine emery paper were brush painted with a couple of coats of clear lacquer.
    1 day ago by robbob
    Blog
    36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    7 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Re: Schooner
    Hi, Depends on the contents, if it is alcohol great! Vinegar not so great.LOL!! Martin.
    1 day ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Cheap easy anchors
    Scroll down to page 17 here and you will find some shapes to cut out to make a Byers-type anchor... http://eezebilt.tk/OSA-1.pdf
    1 day ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Cheap easy anchors
    How many of you have thought of cheap easy alternatives to expensive fittings. I was not about to pay a silly price for a gnarly looking piece of cast muck, and was about to make some anchors when I had a thought, - jewelry! found some anchors the perfect type and size on Ali Express for $1 each (bought 4) which are already quite well presented and with a bit of a slash with the dremel, a ring and galv paint had a reasonable looking pair of stockless type anchors. Could have done a bit more to them but who gets out a magnifying glass? $2 bucks the pair and 10 mins dremel and paint PLUS you get 2 bits of useful string left over!
    2 days ago by jbkiwi
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Lead acid batteries should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these batteries will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these batteries use the same formula. However lead acid batteries can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE! Large 12 v lead acid batteries (e.g. old home security batteries) have a time constant of approx 4 hrs so need to be charged 5 x 4 hrs = 20 hrs. I leave mine on overnight which usually does the job, offload charged battery volts are approx 13.8 v.
    1 day ago by Tall Paul
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Lead acid batteries should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these batteries will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these batteries use the same formula. However lead acid batteries can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE! Large 12 v lead acid batteries (e.g. old home security batteries) have a time constant of approx 4 hrs so need to be charged 5 x 4 hrs = 20 hrs. I leave mine on overnight which usually does the job, offload battery volts are approx 13.8 v.
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiCad Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Ni-Cads should be discharged before re-charging. The discharge rate can be any number of amps really, but ensure the battery stays cool, half an amp or less would be quite adequate. This can be achieved by placing a car bulb or some other lamp onto the battery. Once the light has gone out, the battery will be ready for charging. Slow Charge To recharge a NiCad battery check what mA/h the cells are. if the cells are for example 500mA/h this would be divided by 10 to get 50mA and charged at this rate for 10 hours. This will ensure the battery has the correct amount of energy as it should have, however it is sometimes a good idea to give the battery an extra hour. Fast Charge Fast charges are worked out the same way but so that you can work out the charge current for 1 hour. This means that what ever the mA/h rating the battery is, is the same current as for charging for 1 hour. Fast charges deteriorate battery life and capacity, therefore they should not be done on a regular basis. Winter Storage While these batteries are not in use it is best they are stored in their discharged state.
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Radio Control Wiring
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Wiring Methods Wiring can be a little tricky, especially when there are more functions than just power and steering. To wire correctly you should first check: - What is to be wired up. - What voltages are going to be needed. - if there is any equipment that is not compatible. Receiver Where possible try to have a separate battery for the receiver and not power it through B.E.C. circuits in speed controllers. There is a simple explanation for this. The speed controller works by switching on and off and different rates. Depending on the rate of switching the motor will speed up or slow down. it is this fluctuating current that is not good for the receiver if its using the B.E.C. *Edit* More modern electronics are not affected so much by this, but if you start to experience problems with reception it could still be something to consider. The receiver should be placed as far away as possible from other electrical equipment such as motors/servos. Also DO NOT CUT THE AERIAL ON THE RECEIVER. The receiver aerial is a set length and can affect signal quality if made shorter or longer. All motors should have suppression to avoid any interference with the signal. There is a section in the knowledge base for this if you need to learn more. Lighting Lighting equipment is running at a constant current and can be placed off any battery without it affecting anything else... BUT if it is put onto the same battery as say a drive motor, the lights will dim everytime power is asked from the motor. If LEDs are being used you will have to be careful about the voltage. Three things can be done to ensure the LEDs are getting the right voltage (usually between 3.0 to 3.5v). One. Use a voltage regulator. Two. Put resistors into the circuit. Three. Put the LEDs in series with each other. Each LED is about 3v so two in series would need a total of 6v. Sound/speakers Speakers generate sound using a fluctuating current through the coil. it is recommended that all sound devices are run off a separate battery to avoid interference. Another problem with speakers is the magnetic field. This can play havoc with the signal, especially analogue radio sets, therefore the speaker should be as far away as possible from the receiver and have magnetic protection if there is no choice. Relays/switches A switch is always a good idea so that the boat or anything else can be switched on and off easily, but they should only be used if the current is low going through them. To reduce the amount of problems that could occur it is recommended to do without a switch if possible. A switch for the receiver is fine as it is only low current. For drive motors it is better to have a straight link onto the battery. Fuses Fuses are always a good idea to ensure they blow up before your boat does! Make sure you use the proper car type fuses for high current applications (blade fuses).
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    LiPo Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! LiPo Battery Charging - Use specific Lithium Polymer charger only! Non-compliance may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage. - Do not let the voltage on the cells drop more than 2.75v / Cell. it is recommended to unplug the battery after use which would stop any further discharge of the pack! - Never charge batteries unattended. Whenever charging Li-Poly batteries you should always remain in constant observation to monitor the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur. - if at any time you witness a battery starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue charging process immediately, disconnect the battery and observe it in a safe place for approximately 15 minutes. This may cause the battery to leak, and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in fire. Since delayed chemical reaction can occur, it is best to observe the battery as a safety precaution. Battery observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. - Use caution to avoid puncture of the cell. Puncture of cells may cause a fire. - Wire lead shorts can cause fire! if you accidentally short the wires, the battery must be placed in a safe area for observation for approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, if a short occurs and contact is made with metal (such as rings on your hand), severe injuries may occur due to the conductibility of electric current. - in the event of a crash, you must remove battery for observation and place in a safe open area away from any combustible material for approximately 15 minutes. - if for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, it will be necessary to cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires to not touch each other or a short may occur, potentially causing a fire. if you accidentally cause the battery to short, place it in a safe open space and observe the battery for approximately 15 minutes. A battery may swell or even possibly catch fire after a short time. - Never store or charge battery pack inside your car or building in extreme temperatures, since extreme temperature could ignite fire. Charging Process - Never charge batteries unattended; Charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials; Let battery cool down to ambient temperature before charging. - Do not charge batteries packs in series. Charge each battery pack individually. Failure to do so may result in incorrect battery recognition and charging functions. Overcharging may occur and fire may be the result. - When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the battery label. As a safety precaution, please confirm the information printed on the battery is correct. - Selecting a cell count other than the one printed on the battery (always confirm label is correct), can cause fire. - You must check the pack voltage before charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if open voltage per cell is less than 3.3v Example Do not charge a 2 cell pack if below 6.6v; 3 cell pack if below 9.9v. - You must select the charge rate current that does not to exceed 1C (one times he capacity of the battery). A higher setting may cause fire. The below chart is calculated at 1 x capacity of pack. Example: 1800mAh: charge below 1.8Amps; 2200mAh: charge below 2.2Amps; 3600mAh: charge below 3.6Amps First Discharge: Keep the run time to 6-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks. Storage & Transportation Store battery at room temperature between 40F and 80F for best results; do not expose battery pack to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most transmitter/receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the transmitter, receiver, the batteries to go with them and servo's. The style of transmitter is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding equipment should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! 😊
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiMH Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! NiMH batteries should not be discharged fully although it wont do them too mcuh harm if this happens. They are not very good for high load applications and tend to deteriorate quickly if put under any load. To charge up these batteries use this formula. These batteries should not be placed under any 'fast charges' as they deteriorate too quickly for the amount of amps put through them. NiMH batteries seem very popular these days as it is a new technology and a lighter weight battery than others. The battery is also recyclable, and eco-friendly, but all this doesn't make it a practical battery to use. it is recommended due to the deterioration rate of this battery to stick with NiCad's for higher current applications. Winter Storage These batteries should be kept charged up. A charge for half the time of a normal charge every two weeks will be sufficient to keep the battery in its best condition.
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Air Sea Rescue Launch 123
    If they are the same as Doug posted a little while ago, they only show total volts for NiMh (only a pos and neg plug). The only way you could get individual cell voltage would be to have the cells wired similar to LiPos with check/balance wires from appropriate points, but I don't know if there are any checkers readily available. You could re wire a pack to a multi plug so you could check individual cells with a multi meter perhaps. Doug will probably have a better idea being the tech man. The problem with NiMh cells is there can be large numbers in a 'pack' (as against LiPos which have purpose designed chargers and checkers with JST-XH leads for 1-10 cells) and if there is a dud cell in the middle you won't know till the battery keeps dropping its' charge quickly when not being used.
    2 days ago by jbkiwi


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