Response

Cooling coil

Hi Steve - yours is 1:12 then which is the scale I'm building all mine at. Yes, the building is the best bit (and the drawing in my case) as I doubt I will use them that much. Where did you get your bollards etc. from as I shall need to start getting those bits and pieces together. Chris

5 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Who's at the helm?

I need a helmsman for my Huntsman 31 in . All I'm finding is dolls house dolls or gnarley fishermen in sou'westers. Need a man or woman in casual cloths. Any thoughts? thanks Steve

6 years ago by steve-d

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, That was just a selection of my larger 350 scale kits! Forgot HMS Prince of Wales battleship😉 I also have a vast collection of everything from 720 to 72, including the Revell Flower Class corvette. I started an XL spread sheet to keep track of them with scale and size data, number of shafts, and where practical and already measured max load capacity! Re: wood decks; I have them on my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast both 1:128, and have bought them for Hood, Bismarck and the corvette. In my experience the self adhesive starts to pull up at the edges, always in the most awkward place to get to to fix😡 I learned to use a gel type gluper sue for first time fitting and thin runny stuff for repairs so it creeps under the edge a bit. Yes please, the info on the decks would be useful especially Titanic. i have a premium version with lots of etch parts but no wood I think. Why do we do it? Cos we're nuts! Prerequisite for scale modelling 😁 Happy modelling, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS my favourite carrier photo attached; Capn of the Nimitz wanted to go water skiing 😁😁

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Fire Boat 38

BRAVO ZULU! NICE BOAT! is great for detail. Now you have the RC fever, right?

6 years ago by circle43nautical

Forum

Sea Queen refurbishment

Hi Canabus I agree but I retired for the second time in 2009 and have no wish to return to employment. I do scratch build so make lots of fittings. My purpose in buying the 3D printer was to speed up the production of masters that I could take a mould off to then produce in fast cast resin. Used this on the Olympic and Titanic and have the hull for the Mauretania at 1:96 so plenty of fittings required there. I also have fittings for the KD Perkassa so am not restricted to any scale. This is the real benefit of CAD design as you can quickly rescale to anything (within reason) and the SD printer will produce the masters. 3D copiers are still a bit in the development stage for hobbyists and I am waiting for the cost to become more reasonable. I have seen a demo but its only good for figures in with an affordable 3d printer. You could use a professional print service but its dear and rather defeats the object of designing and printing at home. Stephen does produce a range of fittings in the site model shop so they are available. Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Blog

Secure the hatches and raise the flags !

Having spent so much time adding fittings and detail to the removable cabin roofs and hatches the last thing I want is for them to be dislodged and see them sink without trace 😱! Having used some amazingly strong neodymium magnets to hold the foam tanks securely in the rear well I was confident that they would be more than powerful enough to hold the various roofs and hatches in place so I scoured eBay for some suitable sizes and shapes. I settled on two sizes, 25x6x3mm and 12x6x3mm and ordered 10 of each, more than I need but so useful to have in the bits box. A word of caution with these magnets, always slide them apart and avoid letting them crash together as the impact can easily break them into pieces, as I discovered. Thankfully I have some spares ! For the engine roof magnets I made a couple of small plywood brackets into which the larger magnets are fixed with epoxy and these were in turn epoxied onto the inside faces of the engine room walls. The mating magnets were let into the underside of the roof frame and firmly glued in place after double checking the mating polarity and orientation. An identical method was used for the forward cabin roof but using the smaller magnets. For the removable panel in the centre section over the motor I used a single pair of small magnets on the rear edge only as the front of this panel is held under the cabin door in a rebated part of the floor that forms the threshold of the door. I had to fit a small brass handle in the rear of this panel so that I could pull the panel up and away as there is no other means of doing so without, I made a ‘hook tool’ from some brass wire for this purpose. The floor panel in the rear cockpit is secured on it’s rear edge by a pair of the larger magnets, the forward edge being held down by the towing hook bracing stays. The removable hatch in the rear cockpit floor was also fitted with two pairs of the smaller magnets let into the underside of the hatch and the hatch framing of the floor. One of the brass handles that I that had previously set into the hatch was bent up slightly so that I could use my brass ‘hook tool’ to release it from the magnets hold. So now all the roofs and hatches are firmly secured by the concealed magnets and are easily removable without any fiddly catches or fixings and now there’s now very little chance of them coming adrift and disappearing! The final finishing detail are the two RAF ensigns, one on the mast and one on the stern flagstaff. The ensigns were made by Mike Allsop Scale Flags & Ensigns who was very helpful and advised me on the most suitable sizes for the of my boat. His flags are extremely well made, excellent value for money and look very realistic when flying and fluttering !! Mike can be contacted at: scaleflags@outlook.com or by telephone on 01476 573331 They are hand made from a fine and flexible silk cloth that behaves like a real flag even in a slight breeze and are easy to fix with diluted PVA glue. The smaller flag was fitted to the lanyard on the mast as described in the supplied instruction sheet. The ensign on the stern flagstaff was very carefully formed and glued so that the flag was not fixed in one place and could rotate around the shaft of the flagstaff as this piece screws into a brass fitting on the rear deck and this will ensure that it will always find it’s own position. A small brass ring was formed and glued to the flagstaff below the ensign so it would always stay at the top and not slip down. So, all hatches battened down, flags raised and ready for action. That’s just about everything finished now barring any trimming and ballasting required and is ready for it’s maiden voyage. I hope that all of you that have been following my blog have had as much enjoyment reading about my build as I have had in the building and finishing process 😁 And a big thank you to all that have contributed so much with encouraging comments, suggestions and advice 👏 😍

7 years ago by robbob

Blog

Ship's Boats

Building a model ship often means actually building several models because most ships have boats. Constellation had six. My method for building boats is nearly the same as for building larger hulls and real boats - planks over forms. I have a 1:12th scale drawing of Constellation's boats in particular, from the National Archives. They not only printed me a paper copy, but gave me a .tif image which I could easily re-scale to 1:36. I reproduced the lines as forms extended to a baseline so the boat could be built upside down. I drew each boat's patterns and arranged each to fit on a sheet of copy paper. I printed this on full sheet label paper so I can rough cut them, stick them on the form material, and then cut the forms. I had a few sheets of 1/8" balsa that I cut the forms from. A pine plank was used for the building-board, and marked where each station would go, then the forms were glued on making sure each was 90° to the base and square to the center-line. A note on the build-board, it doesn't have to be as wide as the boat, and should, in fact, be narrower. Then you can access inside the sheer and planking, and later, removing the boat from the forms will be much easier. A small plank of 3/4" stock will let you get rubber bands completely around the model, and it will also fit in a vice which is very convenient. The edges of the forms are shaped so the planks will lie flat on the surface, and not teeter on the edges. Using balsa makes this easy work, though you have to be careful not to snap them off the build board. I sanded them nearly to shape before mounting them on the build board, then fine tuned them with a plank laid on the forms as a guide. The first boat I started with was the ship's 1st cutter, which is a lap-strake, or clinker-built boat. (Only the launch is carvel planked) it's frames are 1/16" thick bass strips 3/32" wide. Each frame is dipped in ammonia and bent over it's form. I put a dab of glue at the ends that would eventually be cut off to hold it to the form, but for the frames on the wine-glass and hollow forms at the ends I used rubber bands to pull them into shape. Once the ammonia dries, they will hold this shape. Part of the reasoning behind using balsa for the forms is if anything gets glued that shouldn't, it's the form and not the model that will give-way. So far, the forms used on both boats came through the process in usable condition, which is encouraging as I need to make two quarter boats just alike and will need to reuse the forms then. The stem, stern-post, and keel are 1/16" bass, assembled together while flat. First the top corners of the keel were planed off to make a sort of rabbet. The transom is also bass as it stays in the boat. The transom is cut taller to reach the build-board, and partially cut at what will be it's top to make it easier when it's time to detach the boat. it's glued to the stern post and the build-board, the keel is glued to each frame, and the stem is glued to the build-board. This pretty much forms the rigid skeleton of the boat. There's two ways to represent lapstrake planking on so small a model. One way is to sand each plank so it's half as thick at it's top edge as its bottom edge. The planks are butted on the boat, carvel style, thick against thin, giving the impression of overlapped planks. I chose to actually overlap the planks because the inside of the boat is open to view, and it's actually easier when dealing with wood only 1/32" thick. Since each plank of a lapstrake boat overlaps the one below it, each plank has to be spieled, or shaped to fit, and the boat must be planked from the keel to the sheer. I divide the length of the widest frame from the keel to the sheer into the number of planks I want, then divide the lengths of the stem and the stern by this number. You'll find the planks will get narrow forward, and flare wider back aft. You may have to experiment a bit with the number of planks to maintain at least 2 scale inches forward and not more than 5 scale inches aft, or the planking will look nonsensical and out-of-scale. I planked the cutter in 1/32" thick bass. The first planks are the garboards, next to the keel. For the next plank I placed a strip of card along side and used a piece of plank against the edge of the wood plank to mark the card. The marks are actually the bottom edge of the plank. Each plank is shaped on it's bottom edge to the plank before, and it's top edge is straight. Then I dip it in ammonia and clamp it in place, where the "clamps" are rubber bands, blocks of wood, pins, clothes pins, whatever works. Again, a narrow build-board allows the rubber bands to pull in as you reach the sheer rather than pulling them away from the boat. Once your brain gets wrapped around spieling, the planking will move along. But don't try to do too much too fast or you'll just get frustrated and ruin everything. Take lots of breaks. The planks need to be sanded thinner at their ends, almost to nothing, depending how much of a rabet was cut into the stem. At the stern they run right off the transom and are cut flush. You can notch the transom into steps for each plank to fit into, of fill the little gaps where they overlap with putty later. Since they're getting painted, I used putty. When the planking is done up to the sheer, it's best to add rub rails and strakes while the boat's still on the forms. I then finished the cut in the transom, cut off the stem near the build-board, and nipped off each frame where it was glued to the form. Then carefully lifted the boat off the forms. Some form may have come off with it, and some spots may need to be reglued. I installed frames in between each of the ones the boat was built on, putting a frame about every scale foot. Seat clamps, floor boards, seats, oar notches, lifting eyes, mast steps, etc, are all added bit-by-bit, before you know it, you've got another model boat. I'll get into the launch next.

7 years ago by Jerry Todd

Forum

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-)

Hi Malctank Which Smit Nederland are you talking about? I remember building the Smit Nederland about 25-30 yrs ago! I believe it was the 1:1200 it was about 2.5" long. Don't remember her scale exactly.... Ed Evening Doug, Cheers

7 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

The flagstaff.

While waiting for paint and lacquer to dry I thought I'd try making a flagstaff to go at the stern to take an RAF ensign that I'd like to fit. I used a short length of 5mm brass tube set into a circular flange that I shaped from some brass sheet. The hole in the flange was filed out to take the 5mm tube at an angle and was soft soldered into place, a 2mm nut was then press fitted into the base of the tube and secured with a drop of superglue. The pole was made from some 2mm brass rod tapped with a 2mm thread on one end. A short length of 4mm rod was bored out with a 2mm hole and was soft soldered close to the end to fit snugly into the 5mm base tube to act as a spacer, and another short piece of brass hand turned to make a knob at the upper end. During initial construction I had set a wood block below the deck at this point to provide support for a flagstaff (always thinking ahead 😉) and this was drilled out at an angle for the 5mm base which was epoxied in place ensuring that base was seated correctly and the flagstaff was vertically aligned. The length of the flagstaff is about 11cm above the deck and is removable for transportation. It turned out really well and I will keep the brass finish but give it a coat of clear lacquer to prevent it tarnishing. I will order the two flags (flagstaff and mast) from Mike Alsop flags & ensigns as soon as I have worked out the correct sizes for .

7 years ago by robbob

Response

Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one.

Only too pleased to help anytime

8 years ago by namron

Response

Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one.

I am a novice so its very helpful to me, thanks.

8 years ago by justintime2001

Response

Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one.

Thank you, I intend to make all the bollards etc on the boat and will post them as I do, and hopefully it will be of use to someone.

8 years ago by namron

Response

Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one.

Nice job.

8 years ago by justintime2001

Blog

Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one.

Hi everyone, this is my first venture into the realms of writing an article so please be patient. I have swapped from gas boats to scale boats about 3 years ago and am enjoying the new challenge. I joined a club and there is a wealth of knowledge to be had and gracefully shared by my new friends, however one of my biggest problems is I like big boats! I have just finished a 1.12 scale Waveney and have already purchased a 1.12 scale Arun to build over the next year or so. I have searched the Internet and all model outlets known to man to find good quality hand rail stations at (not white metal!!) and can't find any! SO.....I decided to make my own and this is how I've made them! Using a white metal 1:12 stanchion as a guide for spacing etc; I purchased a couple of metres of 3mm brass tube, and 100 brass beads 5mm dia (from a great shop called tackle bits 2010 on ebay) I made a jig to cut the tube to size (pic 1) and then made several assembly jigs until I settled on this one (pic 2) It's simple to make using 1mm rod and a block of aluminium. Start by putting a bead on each rod and then putting the cut length of tube in between (pic 3) you can slide all the pieces to make sure they are in line, then apply flux to the joints that are to be soldered and heat with a flame and solder, that's it! As simple as that. Allow to cool and slide off the jig , Polish with wire wool and you're done (pic4) The principle can obviously be applied to different scales making life easier for those of you wanting something better than is available through the shops. Will hopefully post more as the project progresses. Thanks .

8 years ago by namron

Response

finished

I have two boats to do both 1 X Brede 33" long 1 X Clyde 71 1/2 " long But will complete this one first then start on my next lifeboat project

8 years ago by skegness

Blog

Tyne class lifeboat

I'm building a 1:12th scale model of a tyne class lifeboat "St Cybi II" which was first stationed in Holyhead back in 1986. I've had the hull for many years (built by Martins Models) and hoping to get it finished this year.

8 years ago by Robby

Forum

1/48 scale Royal Navy crew figures

they do the following scale figure I used the 24th scale on my 1st Perkasa lifeboat figures of the older type. We also provide maritime figures at the following scales:- 1:48, 1:32, 1:24, 1:16 & 1:12.

9 years ago by Northumbrian

Directory

(Other) RAF Range Safety Launch

Designer: Vic Smeed A model of a Thorneycroft RAF launch, length 43in., beam 12.5in Suitable for 2.5cc upwards. Excellent for R/C. Completely detailed on two large sheets. Myhobbystore uk. MM412 I built this Range Safty Launch two years ago and I am now changing the hull paintwork to also include a water line. I never got around to doing this for some reason. Range Saftey Launch I purchased the plans for this model after my late father passed away, he too was building this model but failed to finish it before he died. My father was an Ex RAF Patrol boat pilot, hence the design was appropriate. The plans (Two sheets) are really well presented and easy to use. Each of the sheets provide ample detail to construct the basic model and if you are an experienced builder then these should suffice. However, a little research may be required to put the final touches together for the completed model (If you are a perfectionist like me). These plans are suitable for a novice as a first time project. This being my first attempt at a scale model. The boat once completed sails really well. I fitted mine out with electric motors, speed controller etc and when on the water a few heads turned! Fantastic plans GO FOR IT! Roy McCluskey (Motor: German ) (ESC: Viper 50 Amp) (10/10)

9 years ago by McCluskey

Media

RAF RSL

Designer: Vic Smeed A model of a Thorneycroft RAF launch, length 43in., beam 12.5in Suitable for 2.5cc upwards. Excellent for R/C. Completely detailed on two large sheets. Myhobbystore uk. MM412 I built this Range Safty Launch two years ago and I am now changing the hull paintwork to also include a water line. I never got around to doing this for some reason. Range Saftey Launch I purchased the plans for this model after my late father passed away, he too was building this model but failed to finish it before he died. My father was an Ex RAF Patrol boat pilot, hence the design was appropriate. The plans (Two sheets) are really well presented and easy to use. Each of the sheets provide ample detail to construct the basic model and if you are an experienced builder then these should suffice. However, a little research may be required to put the final touches together for the completed model (If you are a perfectionist like me). These plans are suitable for a novice as a first time project. This being my first attempt at a scale model. The boat once completed sails really well. I fitted mine out with electric motors, speed controller etc and when on the water a few heads turned! Fantastic plans GO FOR IT! Roy McCluskey

9 years ago by McCluskey

Forum

Pulley Blocks

HI All, Do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can make some pulley blocks, preferably easy! I have thought of buying some, and this Is still an option, but I would like to give It a try. All the best Cenbeth

10 years ago by cenbeth

Forum

Fire Boat Crew

HI stainy The Lifeboats Enthusiasts Socy have sold Lifeboat figures on their stands at shows. I have some of their figures for my Solent. They are not for modern lifeboats but more suitable for earlier types. If you want modern types then Adrians Figures have a good selection in several scales. 😀

10 years ago by Dave M

Forum

RNLI Atlantic 21 wanted

hello, I am looking for atlantic 21 to go with my collection, thank you garreth

11 years ago by smudger1309

Forum

Smoke generators?

The cheap and cheerful small tube type are really designed for model trains. Each one I have fitted work OK for about a year (or less) then they burn out - probably because the oil round the element only last about 20 mins and they do not like running dry. The smoke output is not great and tends to be quickly dispersed in any sort of wind. There was a very good larger electrical version available several years ago and I have one and intend to install in a puffer. This gives copious amounts of white smoke. Unfortunately this is no longer available. I believe Graupner do a high volume version but it seems to require a bit of home construction to make it work. The oil tank can be quite big so less chance of running dry. All electrical types tend to be quite hungry on battery power so are generally more suited to models with large batteries. The latest type make use of the disco fogging system. I have seen these demonstrated at various shows and they certainly produce copious amounts of smoke (fine mist actually). Some have additional electronics and can be coupled to your ESC to give a very realistic effect in phase with your motor. Size may be a problem as you need to have a water container to produce the mist. Not really a problem with large models but possibly awkward in smaller and more tender models. As an added attraction smoke can look very realistic - unfortunately you are governed by the weather which can spoil the effect at times. If you have the room go for it - my preference would be the mist system

12 years ago by Dave M

Response

46'' RAF Crash Tender new kit

I am presently trying to rescue a vintage Fire Tender and need help. I looked at the pictures of your model and have been inspired and dismayed at the same time. I have no fittings at all for my boat and would like to source the best ones possible. Do you know where I could find some and how much it will cost me. if I can get this boat to half the standard that yours is then I will be very happy indeed. Regards Dean Walls

12 years ago by Stonemonkey

Forum

1/12 dinghy d class lifeboat wanted for my model arun

HI daveo Welcome to the site. I believe the Arun and Severn both had small class Y inflatables on board. Speedline models do a very detailed kit at for the Y. Model Slipway used to do an extruded plastic moulding of roughly the correct size. If you are intending to show the Y in its canvas covered version a simple shape out of balsa covered with cloth will suffice and won't break the Bank 😀

12 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Scale brass fittings

HI Gregg Good spot. 😀 Have bought these (RB) from Cornwall Model Boats website. Excellent for scale model sailing ships. Using mine on my Cariad, which is 1:16 scale but they look OK on models. The real benefit is that they work and are strong enough for practical usage. 😀

12 years ago by Dave M

Response

upper cabin

HI Gregg I would be surprised if you were to have a weight problem at . Providing you do not have lots of heavy weight up high there should be no issue. 😊 When I sailed my Arun prior to the restoration I needed lots of ballast to bring it down to the waterline. My 1:16 scale Trent is a different matter. Being smaller and with a high cockpit and mast there is lots of weight up top and I had to be careful with the battery and motors. Using plasticard will certainly help. 😀

12 years ago by Dave M

Blog

upper cabin

Whilst the hull paint is drying for a while, its time to start building the missing stern cabin section. this needs to be sorted before any other work is done to the upper cabin, purely because the moulding is a little too flexible without the backend in situ. After purchasing a set of plans from the RNLI, I am able to accurately measure and follow the original lines and layout of the full size boat, remembering to "upscale" all the measurements from 1:24th to 1:12th of course! the stern cabin area does have a lot of different angles and shapes which need careful planning and attention, or you could end up scrapping a lot of hard work too easily. A fellow moddler of a mersey kindly sent me a cd rom disc of a Mersey Class boat which is also assisting me greatly as 2 dimensional drawings are not the be all and end all to make a build in to a working scale model. if ist ever possible to get Images and pictures of a similar boat, "DO"! you wont regret it - ever. To start the base build off, I first bonded on some strips of plasticard to the glass moulding with stabilit express, this means for the remainder of the construction, I only need to use ordinary plastic weld, to bond plastic to plastic and not have to keep reaching for the epoxy resin all the while. The other reason for using plastic is to keep the weight down to a minimum as even the company I purchased the boat off advised me of this, or the boat will never sail properly if its too heavy. thats why you will find I reach for plastic rod, to make replica bolts and not insert brass bolts or stainless bolts. yes it looses a little in the final finish, not seeing hex heads everywhere, but at least my boat will "move" under its own powerplant.

12 years ago by Gregg

Response

RAF CRASH TENDER 46 Inch

HI Alan Sailing taken a bit of a back seat as I am building a 1:96 scale model of RMS Olympic and my friend Bill is building RMS Titanic. We are exhibiting both models at The Northern Modelling Exhibition in Manchester at the beginning of March so time is precious. 😊 I sail yachts, scale electric and steam boats. Have a look at my harbour for some of the models. My 34" Fireboat gets an occasional outing if I feel in need of some excitement 😀 I use a brushless and LIPO set up and boy does it go! 😀 Good info about Captain Jack and . No grandsons yet so where does one get a Captain Jack? 😀 Dave

12 years ago by Dave M

Response

Arun 52'' Scale Lifeboat

HI Aled The RNLI plans are general drawings of a typical Arun. You can not get a specific drawing for a particular boat. I have the softback RNLI Motor Lifeboats by Nicholas Leach (updated for 2007) This gives a definitive list of all the Aruns and identifies the variants. The original Metcalfe hull and Fiberglass top were a bit of a mixture so I had to modify both hull deck and superstructure to conform to my chosen model (52-08. if you look at this building blog the details are there. Speedline do a fully fitted and detailed kit if you can afford the price. Have a look on the Lifeboats24 web site under models. There are many pictures of Aruns and some details of interiors. Depending on how exact scale you want railing stanchions are available from Speedline or Model Slipway do some nice cast . Do you now have the hull and superstructure? Dave

13 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Plans for RAF Fire / Crash Tender

Please, does anyone have the plans for a Fire launch available to borrow, or, purchase. If available for 1:12 or 1:24 scale. Regards Mick P Please PM me for email addess changed by moderator HI Mick, Pete Dimberline, organiser of Firebaot funday, I have both 34 1/2 and 46 inch plans available to copy, get them done quite easily at a local printer, works out about ÂA£6-00 to ÂA£7-00 inc p&p last time I did this for another member, p&p has changed now so would need to send a copy to find current cost, you can ring me on 07989 196001 any time if you want a quick chat. Regards, Pete D.

13 years ago by Pete D

Forum

Plans for RAF Fire / Crash Tender

Please, does anyone have the plans for a Fire launch available to borrow, or, purchase. If available for 1:12 or 1:24 scale. Regards Mick P Please PM me for email addess changed by moderator

13 years ago by zc627519

Forum

Aerokits Solent Class RNLI Lifeboat

I hope someone can help. Way back In the late 70's I purchased the Areokits Solent Lifeboat kit and got as far as completing the hull (minus the bilge keels) and the basic superstructure. My job took me overseas for the next 20 or so years, with the model stored away for completion at a later date. Over the years and a few house moves, I am now only In posetion of the hull and superstructure. I would very much like to get hold of a set of plans, gladly paying for copies or originals. I am hoping that the vast number of site members and the many Areokit models that are displayed, someone will be able to point me In the right direction. Since my "start" on RNLI Lifeboats I have gone on to make a further 5 boats all In , my current boat on the blocks Is the new Tamar Class. Here's hoping, Biggriff

14 years ago by biggriff

Forum

1:16th scale RAF crew

HI this Is Chris @hslmoulding.co.uk, we are looking at producing 2/3 crew members for the 1:16th scale Vosper Fireboat In the next few months. It Is hoped they will follow the same format as our RNLI figures. If this Is a viable project we will also produce a 1:12th scale crew. Your feedback would be most welcome. regards Chris

15 years ago by hslmouldingscouk

Response

Model as bought and tested

HI Mark Thanks for the comments. I am assuming you intend to sail this with twin electric motors. This is as bought and is totally wrong for a Arun class lifeboat. The hull and fiberglass top are the correct shape but this model has been built without any attempt to match the scale or even the top cockpit. All the railings and fittings are 1:24 and should be 1:12. Where the man is sitting on the top should be an open cockpit cut out to the boat deck. I made my own propshafts but you will need two about 18" long. I have yet to decide on prop size but 60 to 65 mm four blade is about scale. I am sourcing mine from Reade Plastics but PropShop and others can also supply. My plans are by Metcalfe Mouldings and are for a 52" hull. I also bought a copy of RNLI Motor Lifeboats - uprated for 2007 by Nicholas Leach (ISBN 13:-978-1-84306-341-4) A£14.99 from Amazon. This gives you details of all RNLI boats including the Arun and will provide the correct number for your chosen model. if you have the same top casting as mine then you are limited in choice with the cabin casting. Not a problem if you intend to make your own top. The first two 52-01 and 02 were prototypes and had different tops and hull in the case of 01. The next 5 54-03 to 07 had a rounded transom - hence the extra 2 foot. My moulded top was modelled on 52-08 to 52-11 (I believe but am not 100% sure) . The new tops Started from 52-11 up to 52-46. I have collected photos of many different Arun's and suggest you base your model on a particular boat for which you have some photos. The Lifeboat Enthusiasts Socy attend several shows during the year and usually have a good pile of photos on offer for a small donation. if you are a complete novice to model making then you will need some help and guidance re suitable glues, fitting etc. if there is a model boat club in your part of Cornwall I suggest you make contact as this will provide you with lots of useful advice and guidance in building your model. At this size it is relatively easy to work on and provided you take your time you should be able to produce a model worthy of your effort. if you have never built any models of any kind before you will definitely need lots of help. in the 1994 January/February edition of Radio Control Boat Modeller (Publisher Argus) there was an article on building an Arun and another article in the Mar/Apr 1991 edition. if you would like to discuss further please send me a private em message. Dave

14 years ago by Dave M

Media

'Scoter', a Dumas Osprey

Scoter was built from a Dumas kit ordered from America. it is a planked hard-chine boat reperesenting an East Coast fishing cruiser, She is 2 feet long with a Graupner Speed 500 motor running on 7.2 volts through an MTroniks 10A ESC. The crew are from George Turner Models, resin figures.

15 years ago by ianed57

Blog

Model as bought and tested

Swapped this 1:12 (1"=1') scale model for my ageing Al Khubar tug. This is a good size 52" x 17". As received there were two Bhuler motors and two 30amp ESC's, plus two servos - one for each rudder. initial sea trials at the club lake(www.creweanddistrictmodelboatclub.org.uk) using a 12v7Ah SLA prooved that the boat was seaworthy and controllable. All the fittings appear to be for a smaller scale, possibly 1:16 and will be removed. The hull and supestructure castings are by David Metcalfe and I was fortunate to meet and talk with David at the Blackpool show to confirm this. Also in attendance were members from the Lifeboat Enthusiasts' Society (LES). I now know that my model is of a 52' Arun. I have obtained a copy of RNLI Motor Lifeboats (ISBN 1-84306-341-7) by Nicholas Leach together with some colour photos from LES. The Yarmouth lifeboat 52-08 Joy & John Wade has a similar cabin to my model and I am considering this as an option. I will start by removing and replacing the running gear and rudders as I am not sure they are in the correct position and I always like to start at the keel of any vessel as problems here are difficult to fix later. Photos show interior looking aft, props and running gear, overall view and flying bridge. This should be cut out to the cabin top with the cox standing behind a screen. Lots to do. Any suggestions for motors, ESC's, batteries? Dave

15 years ago by Dave M

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1:16th scale RAF crew

🚤 Hi again! just to let you all know the 1:12th scale figure is now ready!

15 years ago by hslmouldingscouk

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1:16th scale RAF crew

HI all Just to let you all know that the 1:12th scale cox'n will be ready for the end of this month. please have a look at my website for more details. regards Chris

15 years ago by hslmouldingscouk

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1:16th scale RAF crew

Hi. Yes please. Try something like crew emerging from hatch on rear engine cover or working in the rear well deck area. They do not look so good working on the fire monitors. Figures look rather large for the boat when standing next to monitors.( Shows how small the Crash Tender was ) . Mr pthesailor.

15 years ago by mrpthesailor

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On eBay Solent Class lifeboat

Now sold. Thanks for all the interest shown.

15 years ago by greatwhiterabbit

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On eBay Solent Class lifeboat

My Aerokits model Is for sale on eBay, Item number 220356696054, and the auction ends at 14:35 on Sunday 8 Feb. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220356696054&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=012

15 years ago by greatwhiterabbit