Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build

Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976 Model mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. ) I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the frames to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the frames were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it. The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the frames,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.) Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get sheets to go round the compound curves. Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc. The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored. The model will use brushed 540 motors with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project. Model frames boat sheets Landcruiser motors ESCs 👍 Like 💬 Comment 🗣️ Share 5

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

Futaba F-14 Conversion Problem!

I had purchased the Futaba F-14 Controller. To convert it to dual throttle! This was an easy step! I had purchased the 2.4ghz controller! But, I was having problems. With the expansion modules! No matter, what I did. I couldn't get the expansion modules to work! So, I sent the modules back to Cornwall Model . They in turn sent the modules back to Germany! So, It turns out that the Modules do work! WITH A 40MHZ CONTROLLER! So, Now I have to take the Controller. And convert it back to 40mhz from 2.4ghz! So, the 2.4ghz controllers aren't compatible. With the Expansion modules! SO, IF YOU WANT TO PURCHASE. THE FUTABA F-14 PURCHASE THE 40MHZ UNIT! THAT'S THE ONE TO PURCHASE. As the 2.4ghz unit doesn't work.☹️ With the Expansion modules! A very expensive lesson learned! Now, I have to purchase. A 40mhz reciever and a set of Crystals! Then maybe the unit will work🤞!

4 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Reverted back to 40mhz!

Today I reverted my controller. Back to 40mhz which was simple to do. I've been told to do this. In order to have the controller work correctly! As the Engineers in Germany said so! Cornwall Model Boat most likely. Will NOT be selling the 2.4ghz controller. As it's not compatible with the expansion modules! And Cornwall Model were not told this fact!

4 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Re: Supplies Arrived!

Hi Colin, I was told by Glenn from Cornwall Model . That the folks in Germany tried everything. To get the 2.4ghz unit to work. And it couldn't be done! So, when you purchase the 2.4ghz controller. It can't be expanded! This is why I'm converting back to 40mhz! The Modules won't work with the 2.4ghz conversion! If I were you I would get the 40mhz controller. If your planning to expand the controller! Cheers, Ed PS. If purchasing the 2.4ghz controller. It gives you 8 channels that's all!

4 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

The BIG St.Albans Model Show

Hi Pete. Glad you liked the video. It's true that many of the club stands were manned by 'gents of a certain age', indeed one of our members, Guy Ellerby was 100 years old earlier this year but can be seen amusing some young visitors with his 'Thomas' loco and a 'lively mouse'. The tag line of the show is 'Models That Move' and we encouraged visiting club exhibits to be as interactive as possible rather than just static displays of models, so that the visitors, and particularly youngsters, could have a 'hands on' experience and be involved in the show. Hence the 'Press the button' bit with Malcolm Beaks steam engine display, the 'Drive an Engine' feature in the corridoor, the 'Have-a-go ' on the pond to name a few. All this is an attempt to start that little spark of interest and enthusiasm in model making and crafts that might mature into a meaningful hobby later in life. Otherwise once those 'old gents' are gone, and taken their skills with them, who will take their place 🤔? Philosophising done..... Robbob.

4 years ago by robbob

Response

Re: Arctic Convoy

Agree with Martin Marky - get a minimum 4 channel - the VERY limited range of most of the Chinese type can be very frustrating and put you off RC - plus they don't usually have any speed control........simply forward & reverse....... Howes always have a lot of RC sets on special - but make sure its one with a decent range . Ask at the time of purchase - dealers are honest and will tell if its limited range like the old T5 & T7's although a lot of model boaters like them...........They are usually OK as long as you don't sail almost out of sight......... When you want to use it in another boat you can simply transfer the receiver + ESC and get another servo - they are cheap these days. Or if you are feeling flush you can buy another receiver etc as well. Looking at the Howes Models advert in MB special 2019 they have 4 channel Transmitter plus Receiver starting at +-40quid (not sure of range - its a new Planet type) - mtronics esc's at 20quid - servos at 5quid........... Their site is fairly user friendly and the prices seem to be good. others to try would be would be The Model Dockyard and Cornwall Model . Hobby King is cheap too - but delivery can take a while unless its from the "UK" warehouse - mixed up deliveries are not unheard of either.........

4 years ago by redpmg

Forum

LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT

"But what can you get to quit making smoke units. ?" Burnt down workshop?🔥🔥 Incinerated model? 🔥😮😭 BTW just been reading an article (in December Model , see HMSIron Duke, Broadside in miniature) about a smoke generator using a PTC Thermistor Heater instead of nichrome coils. No chance of fires😊 Doug 😎

4 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Glue, Glue, and more Glue!

Hi Martin, I had sent the unit back to Cornwall Model . They sent them back to Germany! Where they are being tested! I should be recieving new replacements. Within a month's time! I hope!🤞

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Anyone building a Smit Nederland?

Yeah, odd that Ron🤔 Maybe he's on the phone to Billing !? I'll sniff around a bit. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Caliper any body!

Hi Doug, I sent the stuff back. As per Cornwall Model request! They will send me replacement. When they arrive!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Re: (Naval Ship) PT 109

Hi Chris, That may well have been one of the many variants, but the 37mm M3 was originally developed as an Army Field gun (Anti-tank). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/37_mm_Gun_M3 Which is what JFK, and others apparently, mounted on his PTB. What you are thinking of was the M4 version. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M4_autocannon Some later PT were fitted with these, as the attached pic of the restored PT658 shows. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

No, 16 channel Upgrade!

Well after many attempts. I believe the 16 channel decoder. Isn't working have sent an email. To Cornwall Model . Am now waiting for a response!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Work with Balsa wood

Hi Colin, May not be the right thing to say, but I'm glad I'm not alone with the rash problem. Thinking back, I think the balsa that affected me came from a local craft shop. I've been very wary about buying any since then, but did have a few strips which I wanted for a particular purpose, from Cornwall Model which didn't affect me. Any strip wood I've wanted since then, and I seem to use quite a lot, I've bought lime. It's a lot harder but I like working with it - and that helps a lot! Sheet material, I use ply quite successfully. probably because I'm used to it, I built numerous real dinghies with it in days gone by, but that's another story! I hadn't remembered Ezekote, but I used it on a kit boat, the first model I built. Nerys

5 years ago by Nerys

Forum

EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft

We are a bit "luckier" here - can still get dope, solvent based paints & varnishes . Only lead free of course - that's how far we have got with the "Elf & Safety" bit. I use water based varnish for our commercial stuff because there's no pong or fumes to contend with - do most varnishing at home at night . still have good old solvent based stuff. On the other hand virtually nothing for model is obtainable here - only stuff used in aircraft or cars - and that's only in the 5 big cities. Like the UK hobby shops seem to be a thing of the past. Toy shops & stationers have been closing at a rapid rate too - virtually none left. Growing up in a small Rhodesian town the local "sports" shop also kept model boat & aircraft kits & bits - plus the local stationers & department stores had a limited amount of model bits & pieces. Now you see the occasional plastic kit in a toy section of a supermarket and that's about it. Online shops still exist here - but the transport charges are very high and the prices ridiculous for anything imported as the exchange rate is really horrendous. The external online shops like Hobby King are available but prices are high for us and postage/courier exorbitant plus parcels tend to get lost in transit. Then to add insult to injury customs are normally a big hassle and additional cost as well.

5 years ago by redpmg

Response

Re: (Other) 'Maiami' ASR

Hi Red, I had the same problems with the ST I'm building at the moment. I used the plan and elevation sketches and bulkhead/frame shapes and positions from the 1975 Model articles on RAF rescue , but found that the chine up-sweep forward was wrong and had to be brought down. I also had to fit an extra bulkhead between 2 and 3 (and move 2 forward) to bring the hull curve out to the correct line. Could have done with a half frame between 4 and the transom to support the stringers (found I had to prop them to hold the shape till f/glass had set) I've left them in to run hoses and wires behind so they turned out to be handy. There are so many variations of Miamis that you have to just pick the one you like best and go for it. The one I built (very roughly) was modeled off the dwg and pic compared to the SA one which has totally different coamings (there are also a number of RAF similar to the SA one). I forgot to add the nice little 'barrel back'stern on mine which I was intending to. The RNZAF 64ft 100 series HSL I built from the same mag dwgs had similar problems, (not to mention dozens of RNZAF mods while in service) so I just blended most of them into one boat. There is no one left to argue, so who will know if something is not 100% accurate, (applies to most wartime modelling subjects) John B

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Boat retrieval

"Interesting how does that work. ? How is it fitted in the submarine. ?" I just knowed you wuz gonna ask that Martin🤔 I'll have to dig through my archives to find the articles I saw it in. May have to resort to my hard copy archive😐 Model , Modellwerft, Schiff's Propeller etc. The essence of it was an unsecured hatch in the flooded hull under which was the buoy and a coil of small gauge light fishing line. How they stopped it releasing during normal diving I can't remember, was years ago I saw it. On reflection; maybe the hatch was secured and released by the Failsafe module? 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Batteries in a DX5e

Hi Doug, I was meaning more here in NZ, as I know you have some nice shops in the UK and Germany etc ( I have bought quite a bit from Cornwall Model who give really good service) and a few years ago was buying IC engines and parts from Just Engines in Shaftsbury who were a great bunch with spot on service and advice. A list of good shops would be great Doug as if you are not in the country you quite often don't get to know good local shops. When I was working on Norfolk Island (SP) in the 70s there was a shop called the 'Mini Golf shop' owned by a lady named Agnes who was incredibly knowledgeable on all aspects of modeling ( it's where I bought all my models, motors and radios at the time as they were tax and duty free, - bought an OS FS 60 motor when they first came out for around $160 Aust for eg, in NZ a year later they were about 6-$700 NZ). The shop was tiny (about the size of a double garage and was packed to the roof with model stuff from all around the world,- a real modelers paradise and it was known worldwide . Sadly it has been gone for many years as the tax system changed due to Australian interference, (they have now taken over completely) and is now just Lego and other crap (although at one time they sold more Lego than any shop in the world from the new -1980s shop) . I doubt whether there would be many shops in the world as exciting to enter as that old one these days.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

46'' RAF Crash Tender

Martin - I wholeheartedly agree - there was an elderly member of our club who despite ill health and a few other problems like arthritis kept on producing new models which whilst not being of Gold Medal standard were a lot better than many I have seen. And all scratch built too. A friend collected full size and had at one stage two Miami Crash and two Ford Class seaward defence . The Crash originally had a material covered planked deck. He removed the material except where a non slip surface was required and the looked great when he used them as excursion from Hout Bay.

5 years ago by redpmg

Forum

Aerokits Plans

".... I think this might be one for our 'Dodgygeezer'!? He runs a site with some vintage plans..........Just tried 'em and they don't work.🤔 At best they'll redirect Dodgy's site needs updating!....." Yes, indeed. My sites (unusually for me!) try to comply with current legislation. Very simply, this means that I need to get permission from the rights holder, or declare the item to be an 'orphan'. If you want a discussion of my interpretation of the current copyright legislation, ask for it in a separate thread! In general, where vintage model kits are still being sold, I do not publish plans, since these can be obtained commercially. All the plans which are available for free from my sites either come with explicit written permission from the rights holder, or documented evidence that I have researched the history and found any rights holder to be unavailable. That is the case, for example, for all 'Marinecraft' models, which were created by Model Aerodrome Ltd, merged with Model Aircraft (Bournemouth) Ltd, became Model Aircraft Stores, and then reverted to Model Aerodrome. At some point in the 1970/80s the kits were discontinued, and Model Aerodrome was sold to an entrepreneur in 1987 who resurrected the business under the name 'ModelZone'. This went bust in 2013, and W.H.Smith bought the name to sell imported model cars under. Their legal department do not seem to know whether with that they also obtained the rights to some model boat plans designed in the 1950s by a company started in the 1930s. Nor do they seem to care. They have, of course, no existing plan data, so as usual I have to reverse engineer from surviving examples.. Tracking this kind of thing is complex, and the Aerokits models have been through a bewildering series of ownership (and claimed ownership). Often this seems to be the same people trading under different names. At the moment SLEC seem to be making (and selling) the kits, while Cornwall Model , Jotika, Lesro and Vintage Model Works and a good few others all distribute them. Of particular interest is Belair, who have an agreement with Colin Smith to produce the old Phil Smith range of kits. But while all these are being commercially provided I will refer plan requests to the rights holders. Tracking all this it time-consuming, but it looks as if I should do a bit of link updating at some point...

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Blog

The Anchor

There’s no anchor supplied in the Vintage Model Works metal fittings kit and I thought it would be good to include one as an additional deck feature, again following the NMM model that I’m using as a reference. First I made the chain hawse pipe from some styrene tube by heating and bending it in a former and then selecting a small part of it that has the correct degree of bend. This was then fixed to a circular plasticard flange and the base drilled to take a small brass shackle pin that the chain will fix to. A 2mm brass nut secures this pin to the hawse pipe. A couple of brushed coats of gunmetal grey finishes the piece. The deck was drilled to take the shackle pin and this piece is screwed into the deck without any need for glue. The anchor is a Hall type anchor from Cornwall Model and this needed a bit of fettling with files to improve the finish, it was then sprayed with grey etch primer and a couple of coats of satin lacquer. I drilled a 1mm hole through the bottom of the anchor for a retaining pin. The chain, also from CMB, if fixed to the shackle pin in the hawse pipe with a slightly larger link made from some brass wire. I made a retaining piece for the anchor to sit in that incorporates the anchors retaining pin, this is made from some scraps of obeche strip superglued together but I had to file a recess into it so that the anchor would sit correctly. This was finished with some antique pine stain and a lacquer finish and fixed down to the deck with a couple of 1mm threaded brass rivets and a dab of superglue for good measure. Another brass wire link connects the chain to the anchor and the short length on chain will be tacked down to the deck with a spot or two of glue. In retrospect the anchor and chain look very slightly too small in scale, the dimensions on the CMB site are a little misleading ☹️, but overall the piece looks quite good on the deck 😀

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Help me please

So you already have an appropriate motor installed. All you then need is a radio (Tx and Rx), a servo, a speed controller and a radio-switch if you want to add switchable lights. Oh, and a battery. You will need a radio because 35mhz is an aircraft band. can use 27mhz, 40mhz (both old technologies now) or 2.4ghz. I would strongly recommend 2.4ghz - it's cheap and has lots of advantages. You can get a set for less than £50 - I have seen them for less than £20! But get one with more than 2 channels if you want to do extra light switching. The hull is a displacement one - I suggest a standard 7.2v NiMh battery pack (though I don't know your motor voltage?). Do you have a charger?

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Re: Refit Irishman to Yorkshireman tugboat

" It had had at least 4 coats of paint the latest being done by what looked like a plasterer." Funny that Rogal! I had exactly the same situation with the restoration / conversion of an ancient Billing fish cutter, the Gina 2. Dave-M actually said he thought it looked like it had been plastered! 😮 Pics show the wreck I started with and where I'm at. Paint finish in last pic is actually Arctic White, lighting and camera makes it look very off white!😮 Oh well! She'd been at sea for a while 😁 You can follow my 'trail' in my Build Blog at https://model-.com/blogs/43305 I am also converting Gina from the original static model to RC. I restored a period (50s) Taycol Target motor to go in her. Pic 3. The Taycol came from the Sea Scout 'Jessica' that my Dad built in the early 60s. My Blog of restoring her is also on this site. Similar techniques used😉 https://model-.com/blogs?q=Jessica Happy restoring, it's sometimes frustrating but in the end very rewarding.😊 I also have an ELCO PT Boat under similar restoration and refit/upgrade. (No blog as yet!) Good luck with your venture 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

Nordkap

Billing Nordkap Trawler

5 years ago by Shopper

Forum

Transmitter Mode 2

Hi Doug, I have now introduced the ELEVON function on my twin, independently controlled screw models. That puts both motors on the RH stick (up/down) for simultaneous speed control and LH/RH differential operation for side to side. Tried to explain it in more detail in a recent Brave Borderer blog update. It is also covered in a recent Model mag article. With twin, independent motors find it so intuitive that I like it. Previously had one motor on LH stick and the other on the right. Found them difficult to synchronize and then steer accurately. Pity my only tests are on the bench as no sign of ice free water here yet. Will report water tests in due course Rowen

5 years ago by Rowen