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    Forum
    Work with Balsa wood
    Hi Colin, May not be the right thing to say, but I'm glad I'm not alone with the rash problem. Thinking back, I think the balsa that affected me came from a local craft shop. I've been very wary about buying any since then, but did have a few strips which I wanted for a particular purpose, from
    Cornwall Model Boats
    which didn't affect me. Any strip wood I've wanted since then, and I seem to use quite a lot, I've bought lime. It's a lot harder but I like working with it - and that helps a lot! Sheet material, I use ply quite successfully. probably because I'm used to it, I built numerous real dinghies with it in days gone by, but that's another story! I hadn't remembered Ezekote, but I used it on a kit boat, the first model I built. Nerys
    17 days ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    Hi Doug, I was meaning more here in NZ, as I know you have some nice shops in the UK and Germany etc ( I have bought quite a bit from
    Cornwall Model Boats
    who give really good service) and a few years ago was buying IC engines and parts from Just Engines in Shaftsbury who were a great bunch with spot on service and advice. A list of good shops would be great Doug as if you are not in the country you quite often don't get to know good local shops. When I was working on Norfolk Island (SP) in the 70s there was a shop called the 'Mini Golf shop' owned by a lady named Agnes who was incredibly knowledgeable on all aspects of modeling ( it's where I bought all my models, motors and radios at the time as they were tax and duty free, - bought an OS FS 60 motor when they first came out for around $160 Aust for eg, in NZ a year later they were about 6-$700 NZ). The shop was tiny (about the size of a double garage and was packed to the roof with model stuff from all around the world,- a real modelers paradise and it was known worldwide . Sadly it has been gone for many years as the tax system changed due to Australian interference, (they have now taken over completely) and is now just Lego and other crap (although at one time they sold more Lego than any shop in the world from the new -1980s shop) . I doubt whether there would be many shops in the world as exciting to enter as that old one these days.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Aerokits Plans
    ".... I think this might be one for our 'Dodgygeezer'!? He runs a site with some vintage plans..........Just tried 'em and they don't work.πŸ€” At best they'll redirect Dodgy's site needs updating!....." Yes, indeed. My sites (unusually for me!) try to comply with current legislation. Very simply, this means that I need to get permission from the rights holder, or declare the item to be an 'orphan'. If you want a discussion of my interpretation of the current copyright legislation, ask for it in a separate thread! In general, where vintage model kits are still being sold, I do not publish plans, since these can be obtained commercially. All the plans which are available for free from my sites either come with explicit written permission from the rights holder, or documented evidence that I have researched the history and found any rights holder to be unavailable. That is the case, for example, for all 'Marinecraft' models, which were created by Model Aerodrome Ltd, merged with Model Aircraft (Bournemouth) Ltd, became Model Aircraft Stores, and then reverted to Model Aerodrome. At some point in the 1970/80s the kits were discontinued, and Model Aerodrome was sold to an entrepreneur in 1987 who resurrected the business under the name 'ModelZone'. This went bust in 2013, and W.H.Smith bought the name to sell imported model cars under. Their legal department do not seem to know whether with that they also obtained the rights to some model boat plans designed in the 1950s by a company started in the 1930s. Nor do they seem to care. They have, of course, no existing plan data, so as usual I have to reverse engineer from surviving examples.. Tracking this kind of thing is complex, and the Aerokits models have been through a bewildering series of ownership (and claimed ownership). Often this seems to be the same people trading under different names. At the moment SLEC seem to be making (and selling) the kits, while
    Cornwall Model Boats
    , Jotika, Lesro and Vintage Model Works and a good few others all distribute them. Of particular interest is Belair, who have an agreement with Colin Smith to produce the old Phil Smith range of kits. But while all these are being commercially provided I will refer plan requests to the rights holders. Tracking all this it time-consuming, but it looks as if I should do a bit of link updating at some point...
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    The Anchor
    There’s no anchor supplied in the Vintage Model Works metal fittings kit and I thought it would be good to include one as an additional deck feature, again following the NMM model that I’m using as a reference. First I made the chain hawse pipe from some styrene tube by heating and bending it in a former and then selecting a small part of it that has the correct degree of bend. This was then fixed to a circular plasticard flange and the base drilled to take a small brass shackle pin that the chain will fix to. A 2mm brass nut secures this pin to the hawse pipe. A couple of brushed coats of gunmetal grey finishes the piece. The deck was drilled to take the shackle pin and this piece is screwed into the deck without any need for glue. The anchor is a Hall type anchor from
    Cornwall Model Boats
    and this needed a bit of fettling with files to improve the finish, it was then sprayed with grey etch primer and a couple of coats of satin lacquer. I drilled a 1mm hole through the bottom of the anchor for a retaining pin. The chain, also from CMB, if fixed to the shackle pin in the hawse pipe with a slightly larger link made from some brass wire. I made a retaining piece for the anchor to sit in that incorporates the anchors retaining pin, this is made from some scraps of obeche strip superglued together but I had to file a recess into it so that the anchor would sit correctly. This was finished with some antique pine stain and a lacquer finish and fixed down to the deck with a couple of 1mm threaded brass rivets and a dab of superglue for good measure. Another brass wire link connects the chain to the anchor and the short length on chain will be tacked down to the deck with a spot or two of glue. In retrospect the anchor and chain look very slightly too small in scale, the dimensions on the CMB site are a little misleading ☹️, but overall the piece looks quite good on the deck πŸ˜€
    4 months ago by robbob


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