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40'' Seaplane Tender, new build
Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976
mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. )
I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the frames to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the frames were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it.
The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the frames,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.)
Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get sheets to go round the compound curves.
Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc.
The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored.
The model will use brushed 540 motors with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project.
Well after many attempts.
I believe the 16 channel decoder.
Isn't working have sent an email.
Am now waiting for a response!
15 days ago by figtree7nts
Work with Balsa wood
May not be the right thing to say, but I'm glad I'm not alone with the rash problem. Thinking back, I think the balsa that affected me came from a local craft shop. I've been very wary about buying any since then, but did have a few strips which I wanted for a particular purpose, from Cornwall
which didn't affect me. Any strip wood I've wanted since then, and I seem to use quite a lot, I've bought lime. It's a lot harder but I like working with it - and that helps a lot! Sheet material, I use ply quite successfully. probably because I'm used to it, I built numerous real dinghies with it in days gone by, but that's another story! I hadn't remembered Ezekote, but I used it on a kit boat, the first model I built.
1 month ago by Nerys
Re: (Other) 'Maiami' ASR
Hi Red, I had the same problems with the ST I'm building at the moment. I used the plan and elevation sketches and bulkhead/frame shapes and positions from the 1975
articles on RAF rescue boats, but found that the chine up-sweep forward was wrong and had to be brought down.
I also had to fit an extra bulkhead between 2 and 3 (and move 2 forward) to bring the hull curve out to the correct line. Could have done with a half frame between 4 and the transom to support the stringers (found I had to prop them to hold the shape till f/glass had set) I've left them in to run hoses and wires behind so they turned out to be handy.
There are so many variations of Miamis that you have to just pick the one you like best and go for it. The one I built (very roughly) was modeled off the dwg and pic compared to the SA one which has totally different coamings (there are also a number of RAF boats similar to the SA one). I forgot to add the nice little 'barrel back'stern on mine which I was intending to.
The RNZAF 64ft 100 series HSL I built from the same mag dwgs had similar problems, (not to mention dozens of RNZAF mods while in service) so I just blended most of them into one boat. There is no one left to argue, so who will know if something is not 100% accurate, (applies to most wartime modelling subjects)
3 months ago by jbkiwi
"Interesting how does that work. ?
How is it fitted in the submarine. ?"
I just knowed you wuz gonna ask that Martin🤔
I'll have to dig through my archives to find the articles I saw it in.
May have to resort to my hard copy archive😐
, Modellwerft, Schiff's Propeller etc.
The essence of it was an unsecured hatch in the flooded hull under which was the buoy and a coil of small gauge light fishing line.
How they stopped it releasing during normal diving I can't remember, was years ago I saw it.
On reflection; maybe the hatch was secured and released by the Failsafe module?
3 months ago by RNinMunich
Batteries in a DX5e
Hi Doug, I was meaning more here in NZ, as I know you have some nice shops in the UK and Germany etc ( I have bought quite a bit from Cornwall
who give really good service) and a few years ago was buying IC engines and parts from Just Engines in Shaftsbury who were a great bunch with spot on service and advice. A list of good shops would be great Doug as if you are not in the country you quite often don't get to know good local shops.
When I was working on Norfolk Island (SP) in the 70s there was a shop called the 'Mini Golf shop' owned by a lady named Agnes who was incredibly knowledgeable on all aspects of modeling ( it's where I bought all my models, motors and radios at the time as they were tax and duty free, - bought an OS FS 60 motor when they first came out for around $160 Aust for eg, in NZ a year later they were about 6-$700 NZ). The shop was tiny (about the size of a double garage and was packed to the roof with model stuff from all around the world,- a real modelers paradise and it was known worldwide . Sadly it has been gone for many years as the tax system changed due to Australian interference, (they have now taken over completely) and is now just Lego and other crap (although at one time they sold more Lego than any shop in the world from the new -1980s shop) . I doubt whether there would be many shops in the world as exciting to enter as that old one these days.
3 months ago by jbkiwi
I think this might be one for our 'Dodgygeezer'!? He runs a site with some vintage plans..........Just tried 'em and they don't work.🤔
At best they'll redirect Dodgy's site needs updating!....."
My sites (unusually for me!) try to comply with current legislation. Very simply, this means that I need to get permission from the rights holder, or declare the item to be an 'orphan'. If you want a discussion of my interpretation of the current copyright legislation, ask for it in a separate thread!
In general, where vintage model kits are still being sold, I do not publish plans, since these can be obtained commercially. All the plans which are available for free from my sites either come with explicit written permission from the rights holder, or documented evidence that I have researched the history and found any rights holder to be unavailable.
That is the case, for example, for all 'Marinecraft' models, which were created by Model Aerodrome Ltd, merged with Model Aircraft (Bournemouth) Ltd, became Model Aircraft Stores, and then reverted to Model Aerodrome. At some point in the 1970/80s the kits were discontinued, and Model Aerodrome was sold to an entrepreneur in 1987 who resurrected the business under the name 'ModelZone'. This went bust in 2013, and W.H.Smith bought the name to sell imported model cars under. Their legal department do not seem to know whether with that they also obtained the rights to some model boat plans designed in the 1950s by a company started in the 1930s. Nor do they seem to care. They have, of course, no existing plan data, so as usual I have to reverse engineer from surviving examples..
Tracking this kind of thing is complex, and the Aerokits models have been through a bewildering series of ownership (and claimed ownership). Often this seems to be the same people trading under different names. At the moment SLEC seem to be making (and selling) the kits, while Cornwall
, Jotika, Lesro and Vintage Model Works and a good few others all distribute them. Of particular interest is Belair, who have an agreement with Colin Smith to produce the old Phil Smith range of kits. But while all these are being commercially provided I will refer plan requests to the rights holders.
Tracking all this it time-consuming, but it looks as if I should do a bit of link updating at some point...
4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
There’s no anchor supplied in the Vintage Model Works metal fittings kit and I thought it would be good to include one as an additional deck feature, again following the NMM model that I’m using as a reference.
First I made the chain hawse pipe from some styrene tube by heating and bending it in a former and then selecting a small part of it that has the correct degree of bend. This was then fixed to a circular plasticard flange and the base drilled to take a small brass shackle pin that the chain will fix to. A 2mm brass nut secures this pin to the hawse pipe. A couple of brushed coats of gunmetal grey finishes the piece. The deck was drilled to take the shackle pin and this piece is screwed into the deck without any need for glue.
The anchor is a Hall type anchor from Cornwall
and this needed a bit of fettling with files to improve the finish, it was then sprayed with grey etch primer and a couple of coats of satin lacquer. I drilled a 1mm hole through the bottom of the anchor for a retaining pin.
The chain, also from CMB, if fixed to the shackle pin in the hawse pipe with a slightly larger link made from some brass wire.
I made a retaining piece for the anchor to sit in that incorporates the anchors retaining pin, this is made from some scraps of obeche strip superglued together but I had to file a recess into it so that the anchor would sit correctly.
This was finished with some antique pine stain and a lacquer finish and fixed down to the deck with a couple of 1mm threaded brass rivets and a dab of superglue for good measure. Another brass wire link connects the chain to the anchor and the short length on chain will be tacked down to the deck with a spot or two of glue.
In retrospect the anchor and chain look very slightly too small in scale, the dimensions on the CMB site are a little misleading ☹️, but overall the piece looks quite good on the deck 😀
5 months ago by robbob
Transmitter Mode 2
I have now introduced the ELEVON function on my twin, independently controlled screw models. That puts both motors on the RH stick (up/down) for simultaneous speed control and LH/RH differential operation for side to side.
Tried to explain it in more detail in a recent Brave Borderer blog update. It is also covered in a recent
With twin, independent motors find it so intuitive that I like it. Previously had one motor on LH stick and the other on the right. Found them difficult to synchronize and then steer accurately.
Pity my only tests are on the bench as no sign of ice free water here yet.
Will report water tests in due course