Forum

First time Thames Sailing Barge Build

I expect you know that both Lady Daphne and Lady Jean were built by Short Bros at their Borstal factory in the mid 1920's. There are lots of photos of them around as both are still sailing. of them are often based on the James Piper hull from Mastman. Good luck with your project, but I still hope the bug gets you and you build a sailing model sometime soon. Cheers, Nerys

4 years ago by Nerys

Forum

The BIG St.Albans Model Show

Hi Pete. Glad you liked the video. It's true that many of the club stands were manned by 'gents of a certain age', indeed one of our members, Guy Ellerby was 100 years old earlier this year but can be seen amusing some young visitors with his 'Thomas' loco and a 'lively mouse'. The tag line of the show is ' That Move' and we encouraged visiting club exhibits to be as interactive as possible rather than just static displays of , so that the visitors, and particularly youngsters, could have a 'hands on' experience and be involved in the show. Hence the 'Press the button' bit with Malcolm Beaks steam engine display, the 'Drive an Engine' feature in the corridoor, the 'Have-a-go Boats' on the pond to name a few. All this is an attempt to start that little spark of interest and enthusiasm in model making and crafts that might mature into a meaningful hobby later in life. Otherwise once those 'old gents' are gone, and taken their skills with them, who will take their place 🤔? Philosophising done..... Robbob.

4 years ago by robbob

Directory

Mickey Finn

Purchased original Rojair Mickey Finn from Ashton 35 years ago - hull suffered damaged so made a F/G mould before repairing and sailing. Made spare hull from mould and there she sat for 35+ years. Original Mickey was sold many years ago but as retirement approached the burning desire to fulfill old challenges re-emerged. So , after putting out calls for help, diagrams, photos or information on the model boat forums, thanks to "John Dowd" and a couple of other guys, I finally got round to resurrecting this fantastic 36" yacht.

5 years ago by philcaretaker

Response

Re: Arctic Convoy

Agree with Martin Marky - get a minimum 4 channel - the VERY limited range of most of the Chinese type can be very frustrating and put you off RC - plus they don't usually have any speed control........simply forward & reverse....... Howes always have a lot of RC sets on special - but make sure its one with a decent range . Ask at the time of purchase - dealers are honest and will tell if its limited range like the old T5 & T7's although a lot of model boaters like them...........They are usually OK as long as you don't sail almost out of sight......... When you want to use it in another boat you can simply transfer the receiver + ESC and get another servo - they are cheap these days. Or if you are feeling flush you can buy another receiver etc as well. Looking at the Howes advert in MB special 2019 they have 4 channel Transmitter plus Receiver starting at +-40quid (not sure of range - its a new Planet type) - mtronics esc's at 20quid - servos at 5quid........... Their site is fairly user friendly and the prices seem to be good. others to try would be would be The Model Dockyard and Cornwall Model Boats . Hobby King is cheap too - but delivery can take a while unless its from the "UK" warehouse - mixed up deliveries are not unheard of either.........

4 years ago by redpmg

Response

Re: (Naval Ship) PT 109

If and when I do go brushless I will probably look on Ebay for a gun to put on the front deck. I do have a Brushless motor and a ESC new already, I don't know if it will be powerful enough for her being just over 4ft long. The motor I have is the same as the one in my 28" Proboat Miss Geico. But she is quite a bit heavier than my Miss Geico. I still want to be able to get her up on plane at a good speed. But I still also like to be able to go well over scale speed at times. As I have said in the past, I'm a bit of a speed freak. I still need to get a shaft to go with the boat. She has a flexy shaft in her at the moment, the shaft tube got bent when I run her out of the pond due to bad timing on my steering and talkint to my brother not paying attention at the time. I am unsure wether to put another one in or go for a straight shaft. In my RAF Crash Tender's I have always used straight shafts. I got her from TJD at Sutton at Hone which is the next village over the hill from where I live. It was a J Perkins model supplier they ordered it from for me. I have added a picture from the box it came in, I kept the box for it in my loft.

4 years ago by BOATSHED

Directory

(Other) USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101)

1:48 scale Replica of USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), fiberglass hull & 3/4" plywood cabin/superstructure, molded by Al Mergens @ Coast Guard in Elk Grove Village, IL. Most likely the last Bay Class hulls that Al will produce, as he is retiring from this craft soon. I wish I could afford to relieve him of the molds; he has one for just about every USCG cutter and coastal craft that was built. As a safer alternative due to COPD, I would use polyester fabric & resin instead of fiberglass. She is a great matching scale companion to my USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) model from the same source. THANKS AL! SEMPER PARATUS! GOD BLESS AMERICA! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53 (Motor: 775 Johnson type) (ESC: Dimart 320A Fan cooled) (8/10)

6 years ago by circle43nautical

Blog

Deck line in place!

The Deck line is now drawn all along the hull! My last three kits were by Dumas ! There instructions were very well written! Having built my last three tugs. By Dumas of course! Has given me more knowledge. On what to do with a more advanced kit! In this Billing Boats kit. You better know your way around the build! Or have a lot on questions! Next I have to steam her Bow and Stern. Supports which are of 2mm thick ply! Having tried to steam her supports. I have found that the ply delaminates! Which is a problem! But, I have surplus wood at the ready! See, it's the bow and stern area. That use plywood sheets! So, what I'm going to do is. Use 1/4 inch dowel Square of course! Cut about 1/4" pieces times X! To go around her Bow and stern area! This will also solve. The delamination problem I encounted!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Entry Level Steam Boat

Searched Google for an engine supplier in the US - lot of makes available - but mostly very pricey - some plants as much as +-$4500 . Might be a better idea to import a cheap one direct from Tony Green in the UK or there is the Australian Model Steam co as well although quite pricey - they advertise in Model Boats magazine through their agent. Saito himself was the owner of a large scale engineering works in Japan apparently - loved steam engines so devoted part of his shop to making them for a while - even had a steam turbine in the range - one of the few successful commercial ones. Member of our club in Johannesburg had the standard twin or triple plant (memory fails me) - only had one shortcoming in that fuel usually lasted longer than the water in the boiler........ by Design in the UK have a large range of glass fibre hulls which may well suit you - not seen anything similar advertised in the US - a lot of the specialist shops like the Dromedary have closed down - perhaps a request on RC groups Boat section might help you - there are a lot of US members who might be able to help with direct advice - there is a section devoted to steam power.

5 years ago by redpmg

Forum

Entry Level Steam Boat

How about Vic Smeeds River Queen launch - Clinker built Build at a size to suit engine/boiler. Nice & open - easy to see working parts and no superstructure to worry about. Pity Midwest's steam engines are no longer available......Dont think model expo keep any steam engines. In UK Tony Green Steam sell a simple oscillator in various stages which can be ganged up into multiple cylinders - and do a boiler to suit. Or Clevedon Steam who are redoing the old Cheddar steam sets if you want to go a bit upmarket. A friend built an enlarged version of the River Queen in Teak to suit his Stuart Double 10 with a Yarrow boiler - beautiful example of a rivermans boat - always trying to persuade him it needs a new home with me ...... will try and obtain a picture of it and post here.

5 years ago by redpmg

Media

Mickey Finn

Purchased original Rojair Mickey Finn from Ashton 35 years ago - hull suffered damaged so made a F/G mould before repairing and sailing. Made spare hull from mould and there she sat for 35-40 years. Original Mickey was sold many years ago but as retirement approached the burning desire to fulfill old challenges re-emerged. So , after putting out calls for help, diagrams, photos or information on the model boat forums, thanks to "John Dowd" and a couple of other guys, I finally got round to resurrecting this fantastic little yacht.

5 years ago by philcaretaker

Response

Re: Billing Boats!

Hi Martin, I'm sure glad I'm not on the Moon! But, I mitus well be on the Moon! The folks at Billing Boats. Don't communicate very well! And I'm feeling kind of nervus! Has anyone ever dealt with Billing ?

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Media

Submarine Sniper at Buxton

Please note :- "No were harmed while shooting this Video" !.😆

5 years ago by philcaretaker

Forum

sarik hobbies plans and hull,katie,bristol channel pilot cutter

Reading the description by Sarik Biff, it looks like you have to buy the hull, as there are no facilities for building a hull from the plan.😐 Cheers, Peter

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Coastal Figures by Mountfleet

Has anyone recently purchased 1/24 scale figures from Mountfleet and if so were they any better than these? Needless to say they went back by return of post . No explanation or apology for sending them out in this state, just a refund! Apart from Dean's, does anyone know where I can get some better ones?

5 years ago by cormorant

Response

Re: Carla (Neptune)

Hi Boatshed, I assume it's the Krick Pan 21. (Only outboard they have apparently!) https://www.krickshop.de/Accessories-Spare-Parts/Accessories-for-Ship-/Bow-Thrusters-Schottel-Gears-Jet-Gears/Outboard-engine-Pan-21-3S.htm?shop=krick_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=26316&p=15937 I've checked the downloads, German only I'm afraid.🤔 You might find this translator useful- https://www.translator.eu/german/english/translation/ It gets a bit stuck on the model jargon but the rest is pretty good. I've attached the pdf German manual for easy copying of sections into the translator. If you get lost Mail me. Cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. mods and improvements.

All Good Red, I'm fussy (untidy but fussy) about wiring, especially when LiPos are involved. Only things I've burnt out in the last 10 yrs or so are 1 ducted fan motor in my Vampire and a 50/45 1185w outrunner in my World Barbara Jean racer (had it to 101mph-airspeed). Was trying a 10 blade fan in the vampire, which was pushing the motor, (result- all the smoke leaked out. The 50/45 had a wiring fault where the wires exit the casing, and shorted, (with a 5s 40c LiPo behind it) result - smoke leaked out and another forced landing. Had a gas prop on it going for speed. Lucky I got videos of each. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Measurements at Sea!

Hi Graham, have you got plans for this boat? I believe by Design have a twin hull craft very similar to this, might be worth a look😮 Peter (Rooky)

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Response

Re: Futaba F14 Dual Throttles!

Hi Doug, I have something like that in the Tug San Pedro. I got it from Harbor here in the US! It works the same as you P94! But, I want dual stick control! This should prove to be a lot of fun!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Ugh, Shucks!

Well, I had Ordered the Futaba F14. Dual Throttle Controller! But, Harbor had run out! I tried to order from the UK But. Have to wait a week, Some reason! It’s an international order. And I have to wait for approval! Really want that controller. I’ll wait to order then!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Charity shop find.

Hi all, I went bargain hunting for modelling bits round the charity shops in Aberystwyth today and found an unusually rare piece of Lesro speed controller, new in packet with very faded instructions. Hoping it will be useful to work my 6v bow thruster. Anyone used one, this is a new one for me. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Work with Balsa wood

RE Really surprised at all this "too short" only 18" stuff We get the US 'Bud Nosen ' and Australian plantation balsa here, and most of ours are in 3ft and 4ft x 3" and 4" widths, plus all the block and moulding shapes as well. I can get it from Art shops, hobby shops, an on line shop- JR Airsail (the ex NZ 'Airsail' company which closed and was re started as another entity, and is at a house and large shed in the country) - Airsail used to make small aircraft kits here which were sold round the world. They also used to cut all their own balsa and sell it under the Airsail brand. I also get balsa from a large company called 'Spotlight' which I think is an Aussie company. They sell cloth, curtains and material, kitchen and art and craft stuff,-all sorts, and our local Aussie 'Bunnings' hardware warehouse has started selling it, so we are a bit spoilt for choice at the moment. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Work with Balsa wood

I've recently bought from SLEC and Howes - both on the web. The SLEC site provides sheets up to 48" long, but was quite expensive when postage was added. You can specify Soft, Medium or Hard, and these are provided accurately - though some sheets had varying density... The Howes stuff, off Ebay, was cheaper, and arrived in less than 24 hours from order! It was a mix of hard and medium, well packed, but a couple of sheets had minor blemishes on them ..

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft

Hi Doug, R/C planes are all about crashing (if you are not crashing, you're not trying hard enough,) as long as the pilot can walk away its a good landing!😁 My vintage 1975 (UK Saturn ) Sky Dancer (ex IC now DC) has had more big hits than Elvis, but the pilot's survived them all without a scratch! On its' 3rd rebuild and still going strong. John B

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Transport System for model boats

Hi Martin I have a similar folding trolley. It is great because it folds quite small and is Ok for one model. It is a challenge though when you have a 120cm plus model on it navigating around people to / from the pond. So Christmas came and a new platform trolley arrived as per the link. still overhang, but in the direction of travel. I tend to have a crate with all the essential bits at the bottom and then, depending on the day a couple of on their stands lashed on top of the crate. Works very well even over a long grass walk at Model Boat Mayhem this year. Only about 75/80mm thick folded, the wheels tuck up inside the platform

5 years ago by ikseno99

Response

Re: My current fleet 14 July 2019

Like your Graf, but the others are a tad big. They actually bring back memories of many, many years ago when on holiday in Scarborough and we visited the Naval Battle in Peshocme Park, still running I think, where they had "Man Ridding "

5 years ago by ikseno99

Forum

Motor reversing

Hi Pete, "My problem is simple. Where does the air come from to take the place of the water." I assume you meant 'dive' system and not 'drive' system, a subtle difference😉 Let's go back one step! Where do you suppose the air in the tank goes when you pump the water in? Right ... It gets compressed.😮 Air compresses easily, water is practically impossible to compress. When you 'blow' the tank the compressed air expands again and helps the pump to eject the water. The small amount of air you have compressed will not alone be enough to 'blow' the tank without the pump. That's why real subs have compressed air tanks and separate compressor systems. It's preferable in to separate the air / water components. (Just like 'in real'!) That's why Martin is using a balloon, aka bladder. (Oh😮 that reminds me ... I need a P! Back in a mo!! ...... Aah! Dat's bedda😊 As the bladder fills with water and expands on diving (😭) the air in the tank section is compressed. You mentioned before in a PM venting the air to the other compartments in the boat and then relying on the air so partially compressed to drive the water out again. Sorry but it ain't quite that simple. Firstly: that would be fraught with danger as you then need breakthroughs into the other compartments from the dive tank chamber. These have to be not only securely sealed but also capable of being opened to accept and then vent back the air evacuated from the dive chamber. (If you did this in a real sub you'd probably pop the eardrums of the crew🙊😭) So you would need either some very well engineered and precisely machined mechanical valves to control the air flow and prevent leaks and/or a complicated control system, solenoid valves perhaps? Very dodgy! (With apologies to Mr Geezer😁) The chances of flooding the whole boat are much higher than with a contained system. Secondly; the pressure of the air expelled from your dive tank would be reduced by dissipation within the compartments outside the dive tank. Martin's system is contained within one compartment using the bladder (that word again🤔 er, Could you excuse me a moment please Cpt Mainwaring!) The system for my Akula 2 (Typhoon) is also contained, but will use a piston tank. To dive the piston is driven to the far end of the cylindrical tank, compressing the air behind it as it draws in water in front of it. Exactly the reverse procedure to surface. Only disadvantage of this system is that you have to arrange space down the centre of the WTC to accommodate the drive spindle for the piston when submerged. Big advantage is that you have full control of the piston and thus dive depth. Given a suitable programmable TX Periscope depth and max depth could be preset. A max depth Fail-safe controller is also highly recommendable! Have a look on this site, the German model dive system specialist > 30000 systems sold. This is where I got my Akula 2 kit. https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/home/ Also Hall Effect sensors for the dive tank ! Such as you mentioned Pete. They determine the position of the piston in the dive tank and feed it back to the dive / fail-safe controller. https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/Submarine-Kits/AKULA-II/Hall-Sensor-for-Compact-Tank-Switch-CTS2-2-upgrade-set.html Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: If you want to understand more about the principles of how submarines work, whether 1:1 or scale , I can heartily recommend this book- Submarines and Their Originals, by Carsten Heintze. Originally published by Verlag Für Technik und Handwerk (VTH) English edition 2005 by Traplet Publications Ltd. ISBN 1 900371 86 3 Or specifically for model submarines- Model Submarine Technology by Norbert Brüggen (the German model sub guru!) ISBN 1 900371 32 4 Also by VTH in original German and Traplet in English. Should be able to find both on Amazon/Ebay. I've just realised that somehow I have acquired two copies of the latter🤔, English edition! If you want one PM me. BTW 2: you can use the electronics of a servo as a mini ESC or even to drive an electronic switch, BUT you will need to beef up the output transistors to handle the current your pump motor will draw, or add a change over relay to the output! If you want to go that way I can help as I did something similar years ago to use as a winch driver. Standard and mini / micro servo drivers are rarely designed to handle more than about half an Amp, esp the mini / micro versions.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Propeller direction.

An opportunity for an essay! Props work like a screw. It should be fairly easy to see how the prop 'screws' through the water - this video may help: https://youtu.be/GpklBS3s7iU?t=4 Far harder is working out what 'left hand' and 'right hand' may mean for model boat props. This is because the US and Europe (essentially Germany) have (or had) opposite standards, and so 'left' for the US means 'right' for Europe! The UK generally goes with the US - but you need to be aware of the issue. It is because the same prop rotates clockwise or anticlockwise depending on whether you look at a boat from the bow or the stern, and different companies adopted different ways of viewing their props.... From PropShop: "..Where previously we only made these in left-hand rotation, all new steam props come in both left and right-hand. Please note that propeller rotation is based on the British and American standard (viewing the boat from the stern) which is the opposite to that in Germany..." There is quite a lot of discussion of this annoying feature on the boards - see here, for instance: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1993791-Prop-Rotation-North-America-vs-Europe Most of the explanations of how to determine left or right hand props seem to me to be ambiguous and liable to mislead. It would be much better to talk about clockwise or anti-clockwise rotation viewed from the bow or stern, but left and right seem to be accepted describers. The best description I know is this, and even it can be improved a bit: https://www.harbor.com/proprotation.html Let us try to improve it (with apologies to Harbour ): 1 - place the prop on a flat surface with the driven end lowest. The driven end will either have a screw hole or dog groove in it. The un-driven end may taper to a point, or simply be flat. 2 - rotate the prop so that one blade is in the 12 o'clock position. It does not matter which blade this is. 3 - look at the 12 o'clock blade only. The blade will have 2 edges, a left and a right edge. Which of these edges is lower - nearer to the supporting flat surface? 4 - if the left edge is lower, the prop needs to rotate anti-clockwise to go forwards when viewing it from on the supporting surface from above. If the right edge is lower, the blade needs to rotate clockwise for forwards motion. 5 - For US and UK companies, the anti-clockwise prop above is 'Left', and the other one 'Right'. This seems to be becoming a world standard, but several companies may still use the opposite notation, and of course older props will be marked with whatever standard applied when they were made. To avoid confusion, describe prop rotation by including direction of travel, rotation and direction of view in your statement. Thus 'This prop drives forwards when it rotates clockwise viewed from the stern'. Avoid talking about left or right hand.

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

PS Waverley info...

Hi Folks, That plan is 1:96 31" which would make scaling up relatively easy! BUT it's very limited (possibly the same as the S one?) "Waverley: The last paddle-steamer on the Clyde, built in 1947 and in use in 1993. Scale 1:96, length 31in (787mm), hull beam 3.75in (96mm). Lines and external details only." If you search 'Waverley' on the CMB site it produces two more plans, both with much more detail and info apparently. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=Waverley&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21 Thought this query sounded familiar Martin (W)- https://model-boats.com/forum/47212 Some links for lots of original pics in the thread😉 Scroll down to near the start. A guy called davidhgreatbatch has one in his Harbour on this site. https://model-boats.com/user/davidhgreatbatch Cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Thames Barge Plan Kitty

Hi, some months ago I put here list of tsb plans..maybe you would choose other plans as well..... Known Scale Plans for building: WILL EVERARD MAP Plan – believed not to be a true scale plan! LADY DAPHNE Underhill Plan by Design GRP Hull CAMBRIA L E Zouch detailed plan SIRDAR Richard Chesney Plan from MAP 1962 drawings JAMES PIPER Richard Chesney Plan redrawn to 1/24th Scale from MBO Survey 1958 / Weddell Plan VERONICA Richard Chesney Plan from MAP 1962 drawings and J M Russell 1962 MBO survey WESTMORELAND TSBT small scale Plan Richard Chesney Plan redrawn to 1/24th Scale PORTLIGHT MBO Survey 1963 and sister vessels XYLONITE and REMINDER Mastman GRP Hull VENTA David Macgregor Plan Kingston Mouldings Hull (Close to scale) KATHLEEN E J March / MAP / Remploy Plan GIRALDA E J March / MAP / Uffa Fox Plan 1896 Champion Barge Small scale E J March Plan KITTY MBO survey 1963 - Hull and Sections only VERONA Hull and Sections only MAY Outline Hull and Sections only WOLSEY Hull and Sections only but from detailed L E Zouch 1962 survey REDOUBTABLE Hull and Sections only NORTHDOWN Hull and Sections only Some of the above are outline or limited detail hull drawings and sections only. The scales are variable but can be printed to 1/24th if required It may help too, I think for more infos about model barges I can recommend Ivor Bittle pages => https://www.ivorbittle.com/ Tom https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=131302&p=13 🔗 https://www.facebook.com/groups/1036890286476399/members/ 🔗 https://www.ivorbittle.com/ 🔗

5 years ago by tomarack

Forum

HAZELGARTH

Hello Colin, Have you tried Scale for your Hazelgarth, they have quite a lot of tugs, have bought from them many times, I know they have a hull of the Hazelgarth, and plans for such, here is the link. http://www.scalehobbies.net/GRPHULLSLIST.html cheers Peter😐

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Can anyone help please?

Hello Doug, thank you. I have the Mtronics G2 Hydra 50 system brushless motor and speed controller, Overlander 35c LiPo 11.1v 3900mAh battery and a Tamia TX and RX, all was provided together from Howes . I have successfully connected it all together and run it on several occasions for test purposes without a problem. The battery connects with a Tamia connector which can’t be reversed and the motor has three colours cables, red, yellow, blue as does the speed controller. I switched in the RX before the TX and the motor ran as it has previously, I quickly switched on the TX and whoosh! Lots of smoke from the speed controller. I am sure I connected the mayor/speed controller cables correctly however when it all went wrong I very quickly disconnected the battery and the motor leads so didn’t see how they were connected. One of the pins in the Tamia connector to the battery disappeared as well, not sure if it melted or broke off when I pulled it apart. If I had connected the motor cables incorrectly would that have caused this. Also, what type of fuse do you suggest? Eg car type Thanks again

5 years ago by Brianaro

Response

Re: HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.

Hi, Thanks for the compliment. The way I look at it is to treat every little piece as a separate model. ( on ) That way one big problem is just a few little problems and you can sort a smaller problem out easier than one big problem. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Finding a supplier of 2.00mm 2.5mm Ply

Mobile Marine can supply Plywood

5 years ago by Dave J

Forum

What could this Hull be for?

by Design made a pilot boat 42 , the hull is very similar - but its 42' at 1/12 scale not 31". Seem to be far less hulls on their site last time I checked about a year ago.

5 years ago by redpmg

Forum

What could this Hull be for?

Martin , "Maybe it is for this? LOL." dont think it quite fits the bill................. Been reading through old magazines being in enforced inactivity, and in one picture from 2015 November MB there appears to be a similar hull in lighter blue on the By Design stand , cant see the stern as its standing upside down upright behind other hulls, but it seems to have the keel and the rails in the right place. Know they used to make a large range of hulls - perhaps one of theirs ?

5 years ago by redpmg

Forum

Back to Building ... well almost!

Hi All, Just when things where going right and I hoped to get back to 'Real Modelling'. I've been banned from the workshop because of a chest infection and have been put on 'Bed Rest'. Not to be outdone, a friend of mine while trawling through the various Stalls at Ford Car boot and Market ( Can highly recommend a visit its just 2 miles south of Arundel in Sussex on the old RNAS Ford runways) While trawling my Friend came across a box of assorted airfix kits, some boat some plane. What caught my eye was a mk II Supermarine Walrus, which I propose to build into a diorama, carrying out an ASR during the D.Day landings with the sitting on a sea base..I Know its a plane and this is a Marine Modelling Site but at least it floats unlike the poor spitfire that is being rescued. Will be starting a build blog as I get going. P.S. There will be some real boat building, I've got to make a Type H liferaft, all of 26mm long and 18mm wide LOL

5 years ago by boatiebennett

Blog

Lost Cleats!

I had ordered some 5/8" cleat to use with the extra fenders. I intend on putting on Brooklyn. Problem is I tracked them and their last location was Puerto Rico. Don't ask I don't know why they are there! So, I called Dumas . Even they were baffled But, they said give till this coming Thursday. If it don't arrive call them back. And they will resend my order! On the house! Now that's what you call good business...… 😊

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Static Model Boat Building Club

Yes, They come with very good instructions! And they are from Dumas ! I think the hardest one was the San Pedro. Because of her Hull! But, They are very good kits!⭐⭐⭐

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Event

SOUTH WEST SHIP SHOW

Our annual Ship Show with more model boat clubs than ever attending including Swindon MB & Engineering club, Cardiff Marine Modellers, Woodspring MSC, Peter Kenrick (OWLS MBC), Surface Warship Association, Shepton Mallet Drifters, Warminster MBC, and Cwmbran MBC. Adam Slater, a model boat manufacturer of Mountfleet , Doncaster will be present with his trade stand, and RC Bits on the Move will have modellers' bits and pieces available. This is all in addition to many of our regular stands with books, postcards, artwork, waterline ship and more.

5 years ago by coastal1s

Blog

Forward mast and associated fittings

The mast is used for raising the ship signal lighting. These lantern were oil lamps and could be raised and lowered using a pulley system and two guide ropes. I have used two guide ropes using brass wire. these are insulated from each other. Using wheat grain lamps fitted in brass lanterns soft soldered to the two guide rope allows them to be lit using 12volts from the battery. The mast footing is made from plasticard and fitted with belaying pins. The mast from a tapered wood dowel. The masthead brackets from brass sheet and ring pins. The rigging turn buckles from soft soldered brass tube and ring pins. Small pulley blocks from spares box. Rigging cord used to secure the mast to the hull and to the bowsprit. The flag was added as an afterthought. I could have used LEDs but there is always the problem of dropping resistors and where to put them. The bulbs leads also could be hidden quite easily. Mast head lanterns purchased from Croppers

5 years ago by Hillro