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    s revisited
    Based on the build described in my previous 'Fire
    s part 4' blog, the performance of the fire
    s on the lake was less than impressive so I decided to rework the plumbing. The solenoid valve based solution worked, but the water flow was restricted by the small bore of the valves. Using two valves to divert water from the ESC cooling to the
    s also meant that one or other of the valves was always energised resulting in unnecessary battery drain. To overcome these limitations, a diverter valve was constructed based on a 10mm compression fitting from the local plumbing store. A central rotor was turned on the lathe and then cross drilled to produce a three port valve which is actuated using a small servo. I wasn't sure that this would work without leaking, but with an o-ring fitted on the rotor shaft it seems to be OK. At one extreme of the servo rotation, water is routed from the pickup scoop to cool the ESC and motor. At the other extreme of travel, water is routed from the pickup to the
    pump. An RC switch connected to the same Rx channel as the valve servo switches the
    pump on when the valve is routing water to the pump. The pump was also upgraded. I have tried a variety of pumps sourced on-line, most of which did not have adequate performance. The pump now in use is an aftermarket windscreen washer pump which seems to work OK. To make it easier to install in the model, a ply chassis was constructed to hold the valve, pump and the RC switch. The chassis also provides a locating box for the LiPo. Out on the lake this afternoon, I was able to get a few photos of the
    s in operation. The performance is much improved.
    3 months ago by Graham93
    servo specification
    Hi Michael, A few weeks ago I stumbled across a Servo Database on the web and posted it- https://model-boats.com/forum/61551 Maybe that will help answer your question and help you find a suitable servo. About 120Β° end to end seems to be a sort of unofficial standard, with exceptions of course. Most TXs these days also seem to have a function for stretching the servo travel to 150%! At both ends, so that would give you 180Β° end to end with a 'standard' servo. Don't know what you are using but check the manual. Graham93 also recently posted a neat (and logical!) trick to extend the servo travel by adding two resistors to the feedback pot on the servo control board. Also for
    control I think. Hope this helps.πŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: "No load operation speed: 0.12 sec / 60 deg (4.8 V); 0.13 sec / 60 deg (6.0 V)" Something wrong thereπŸ€” Should be faster at 6V!? 0.13Sec is slow anyway, but more than fast enough for a
    I guessπŸ˜‰
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    "access to everything" .... even the coffee machine and microwave just round the corner behind the bookcase!πŸ˜‹ And a TV/
    attached via HDMI cable to my PC in the other room - so I can hear the "Honks" and keep track of what U Lot are up toπŸ˜‰ 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Air Sea Rescue Launch 123
    ".....If you are using NiMH or LiPo than I can also heartily recommend a little Capacity Checker/
    , available all over fleaBay for a few quid......The Checker can then tell you a bit more, e.g. if you've got a duff cell, which will collapse under load even if the other cells are still good!" Interesting. But, as far as I can see, these checkers only provide total voltage for NiMH - just like a voltmeter. The individual cell info is just for Lipo or LiFE. Or am I reading their adverts incorrectly?
    9 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Air Sea Rescue Launch 123
    My pleasure Ian, If you are using NiMH or LiPo than I can also heartily recommend a little Capacity Checker/
    , available all over fleaBay for a few quid. See attached pic. The car bulb trick is just to see how the battery reacts to a load. The Checker can then tell you a bit more, e.g. if you've got a duff cell, which will collapse under load even if the other cells are still good!! Happy sailingπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Motor, speed controller
    All got off ebay. The drone boys use this sort of thing extensively. Go there and google the items below. I have added approximate current prices - but I can recall getting some items considerably cheaper.... FPV Mini Digital Video Camera - about Β£6 Eachine RC832 Boscam 5.8G 48CH FPV Receiver Combo - 5.8Ghz Tx and Rx - about Β£14.80 7 inch Professional FPV Aerial Photography
    For Ground Station - about Β£17.50 FPV-Pro-DVR-Mini-Video-Audio-Recorder - about Β£11.30 Plastic-FPV-PT-Pan-Tilt-Camera-Platform - 99p! I also got an extra stick - about Β£10, a nice plastic box - about Β£25(!), and various connectors, switches, etc. The box contains a gel battery for the video, which can power the main R/C transmitter down the connector line - that's what the buttons and voltmeter on the panel are for... Note that the video transmitter runs hot - most of them seem to - which is fine on a drone, but thermal control needs some consideration on a boat. You can see a little heat-sink that I added.... P.S. Oh, and you'll need to arrange a 180 deg servo for the panning... P.P.S. You might want to consider a clover-leaf aerial. That enables what they call 'circular polarity' transmission, which is really useful for drones when the transmitting aerial is performing contortions in the air. For boats, a vertical aerial pumping out vertically-polarised waves may suffer from 'bounce' off the water surface, which turns the reflected waves horizontal. But these are very cheap anyway, and can be experimented with - a bit like different propellers...
    10 months ago by DodgyGeezer

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