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    Forum
    LiPo batteries
    Please can I get some
    advice
    on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Re: Enclosing the controls.
    Hi Alan. You are correct, I had tucked that leg of the aerial alongside the ESC and probably would have used that position but I'll take your
    advice
    and move it away as far as practical. I'll put it in a thin plastic tube at the front of the enclosure so it will be correctly distanced as you rightly suggest. I had not considered that any nasty RFI from the ESC (or any other acronyms 😉) would be an issue with 2.4G kit. The other leg of the aerial is passed through a hole in the side wall of the well deck into the hull cavity and extends forward, it's also above the waterline too so that should be OK. The aerial wires will be at 90 degrees to each other which I know is desirable too. BTW. I have developed the fan cooling of the motor a bit more so I'll post an update on that soon 😁. Thanks 👍👍. Rob.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Planking
    I'm looking into building a planked hull and need some
    advice
    on how to make the hull water tight. Regards Dave Van Daley
    2 months ago by Davevand
    Blog
    Hull finishing touches
    The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and waterproof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer... I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or
    advice
    here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😡
    2 months ago by StuartE
    Forum
    Rigging a model barge
    Many thanks for your
    advice
    . I think you have confirmed what I had worked out from looking at pictures of model barges and other craft, however the very comprehensive dimensions you have given on facebook are very welcome and will help me a lot.
    2 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    soldering
    Sound
    advice
    from Haverlock and Dodgy geezer! I have found La-co flux (from plumbers merchants) a fabulous "active " flux. La-co spray-on heat mat ( a gel) prevents heat travel away from heated area. An unsupported butt joint is inherently weak. I would suggest some sort of supporting insert into the tube to maintain the flush appearance,but with added strength.Eg: a smaller close fitting tube of smaller diameter/section.
    3 months ago by drspock
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given
    advice
    & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete
    3 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hi, Ed: I did more web searching & struck gold. I found some excellent photos & great information about the Southampton’s smoke system (the Southampton is identical to the Richardson except paint & markings). Smoke fluid goes in the little tube on component “B”, not “A”. When the deckhouse floor is installed that little tube fits snugly into a raised ring on the inside surface of the deckhouse floor. The rubber plug goes through a hole in the deckhouse floor (see photos) to seal it up the filler tube. I’m going to rework the filler tube arrangement by enlarging the hole in the floor so it’ll fit around an extension tube that I’ll add onto the existing filler tube. I’ll seal the extended filler tube with a snug-fitting vinyl cap (I have dozens of vinyl caps on hand). Doing this modification will make it a lot easier for my clumsy fumble-fingers when smoke fluid needs to be added. I emailed Hobby Engine today via their website’s “contact us” page & asked them for information about the smoke system. I’m also going to contact Nick at Harbor Models tomorrow & ask him for
    advice
    as you suggested. I’ll be sure to “tell him Ed sent me”! By the way, have you had any contact with Doug (RNinMunich) lately? I half expected him to offer up some
    advice
    about this topic. A couple of weeks ago I replied to something he posted on the “LED Mast Lights” topic, but he didn’t respond. I also sent him a PM to ask how he’s doing, but he didn’t respond. He used to reply pretty much right away whenever I asked him a question or for
    advice
    . I hope he’s all right & I also hope I didn’t say something that insulted him in some way. He did a lot of design work for my tug’s lighting upgrade project. That upgrade is definitely going to get done; it’s been held up all along by a string of eye infections, then my fall, surgery & recovery. if you hear from him please say “hello” for me. I’ll post back later on & share whatever information I receive about the smoke system or fluid from either Hobby Engine or Nick at Harbor Models. Thanks for your input &
    advice
    , Ed. I appreciate it! Thanks, Pete
    3 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hi, Ed: I’ve attached a photo of the deckhouse interior showing the two smoke generator components & tubing (these things have since been taken out of the deckhouse). As soon as I’m recovered enough I’m going to modify the existing wiring & finally add the lighting upgrades that Doug (RNinMunich) so kindly worked out for me. The red arrow on the photo points forward. The object marked “A” is the blower motor. “B” is the generator; the short tube is where the rubber plug fits when the deckhouse floor is in place. (I’ve misplaced the rubber plug itself but I know it’s in one of the separate bags I put parts in when take something apart). In the meantime, Ed, I’ll contact Nick as soon as I can as you suggested to ask for his
    advice
    , too. Thanks, Pete
    3 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    Thanks for your
    advice
    gentlemen. I have finished the deck and it doesn't look too bad. Before painting, however, it will need careful preparation. Whilst searching the internet for help, I came across this tutorial which some of you may find helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkmeoYKYctw Cheers Steve
    3 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    For my next project I am looking at the Pilot Boat by Aeronaut. www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/.../Aeronaut-Pilot-Boat-3046-00.htm I am unable to find any reviews or information, apart from the somewhat limited information on the web. I am not new to model boats but I am new to electric power. It is suggested that two motors are used (not supplied). The kit seems to be very detailed with scope to add. Any
    advice
    would be much appreciated. Steve
    3 years ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Peter, Thanks for idea for making easier access to Rudder Connections. I have modified mine to similar to yours and all seems well so far. I have not continued with "above" Deck Building but that will be next on the plan. How "Electrical Minded" are you regarding LED wiring etc.? I am looking for a good Website, both for getting
    advice
    on Wiring along with suitable supplies for UK source. Any ideas? Thanks again. Ron
    4 months ago by RonW
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    At this moment in time. I am completing a TID Tug boat. My next project is a Fairmile D MTB at 1/24 scale. I intend to run 4 props using brushed motors and two ESCs. I am looking for reasonable performance from brushed motors probably Johnson 600 motors running 3 blade 40mm props. Can anyone give me
    advice
    regards this setup or can recommend an alternative that does not involve to much expense.
    1 year ago by andyhynes
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Not suggesting Doug dosn't give good
    advice
    or is nothing other than a skilled builder, but the way that post was written came across to me as I described. Is it such a problem if my boat wont run for more than 10 minuets at full steam, come on man how often do you imagine that scenario evolves, most of the time is spent gently cruising around the pond with the occasional full throttle run to wake up the old farts. Tut Tut such disgraceful behaviour.
    4 months ago by bikerjohn57
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical
    advice
    from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best
    advice
    available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    4 months ago by reilly4
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi robbob and mturpin013, I emailed Mike Cummings and have just received a reply. He said how sorry he was to hear there were these parts missing, and if I send my address he would get them sent to me. Thank you both for your
    advice
    . I didn't think that after having the kit for so long I would not have got anywhere by contacting him. I have just sent him my details. Thanks again for your help.
    4 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    de Mist Naval Tug
    Another one of those "What is it?" posts! "de Mist" was a Naval Tug in Simonstown naval dockyard. Decommissioned about 2 years ago and awaiting "disposal" when she sank at her mooring 2 months ago. Salvaged by the SA Navy a week or two ago. Does anybody have any information on if she was locally built (South Africa) or an import. In the absence of any specific info would there be a plan available for a similar looking boat somewhere? Appreciate any
    advice
    .
    5 months ago by Joburg-sailor
    Forum
    de Mist Naval Tug
    As I have made no progress on finding any drawings of the De Mist naval harbour tug ex Simonstown, and as kindly advised by Glyn as having been built by Dorbyl in Durban with VS propulsion, I am now switching my attention to the old steam tugs of the the late 50's and 60's...particularly the JR More (built 1961) that is currently decaying in the Durban Maritime Museum. Again I am on the hunt for drawings that must be more easily available judging by the number of models build of this vessel. She had twin props (rather than Voith Schneider or Schottel) which is something that I can handle! Any help or
    advice
    gratefully accepted.
    4 months ago by Joburg-sailor
    Forum
    Paint for Thames River Police Boat.
    Can anyone confirm the correct colour for the hull of The Thames Police Boat above the waterline? I have seen various shades of blue on other models, some very light which doesn't look at all right, and some in black. The instructions state it should be a dark blue and I'd like to order a custom mixed RAL colour quite soon and I'm looking at RAL 5011 Steel Blue or possibly RAL 5004 Black Blue. Any
    advice
    appreciated. Robbob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    internet sales
    We are living through a technological change brought on by the Web. During any technological change some things will be gained and others lost. We saw this with the development of factories during the industrial Revolution, the railways and later the automobile. Each new technology brought both extensive benefits and disadvantages, and in each case they resulted in the demise of the earlier service provision. in each case people tried to stop the development, and found that they could not. I cannot see much of a future for shops in the long term - let alone model shops. There may be a market for display facilities - places where you can inspect the items before you buy - but I suggest that most goods will end up being delivered direct from the manufacturer via sophisticated logistics services. This is happening already.
    advice
    is readily available on the Net via forums - too much
    advice
    in many cases!
    5 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    internet sales
    I would much prefer to purchase the items I want in a local shop, be able to gain some expert
    advice
    and look before I buy, sadly the nearest shop only has a very limited stock and the owner admits he knows little about model boats, railways being his thing. To find a specialist shop entails a round trip of 126 miles which makes buying on line far more attractive, but this has frequently meant that when the item has arrived (often after weeks of delay as it has come direct from China) it is the wrong size, not as described or there are no understandable instructions. Not sure what the answer is, perhaps moving near to a big city would help.
    5 months ago by RobbieMcKennan
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need
    advice
    on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    7 months ago by teejay
    Forum
    Outboard Motors
    I have acquired an old 50cm wooden model boat which requires a vintage style electric outboard motor. I am finding sourcing a motor very difficult. I would welcome
    advice
    . I am willing to take a second hand motor if anyone has one.
    5 months ago by BigChris
    Forum
    Anybody from Peterborough MBC here?
    Thanks guys. When I Googled it I got several links to the web site that didn't work, except one to their photos page. it was a trip to Deans Marine and a chat with Ron that prompted me to get in touch with the club (he didn't have a contact number to hand but we both thought it would be easy to find) for
    advice
    on solving a problem we've got at our club. The modelboats.co.uk link came up with the goods. I've phoned Mick, their secretary, and left a messaged and he has phoned me and left a message but I'm confident that we will be talking to each other soon!
    5 months ago by smiggy
    Blog
    Arctic Privateer H441 Deep Sea Freezer Stern Trawler
    The Model That I am Planing to Build Is The Hull Freezer Stern Trawler The Arctic Privateer H441 My Problem is though I have never scratched built a ships hull before I have tried looking for ships hulls online to no avail. Can any one give me any help or
    advice
    on where to start Building the hull would Plank on frame be the best way to go or glass fibre hull which is i think the harder as I do not have a mould in in which to start as I have very limited knowledge in mould making Scale: I am looking at is 1:48 any help would be gratefully appreciated many thanks John
    5 months ago by Carpcruncher
    Forum
    Newby
    Welcome John, I envy you youngsters, a scratch built boat to any standard is always the best way to get what you want, and this site is full of members with the knowledge and skills to help, sadly I have never been able to build from scratch, but I make lots of parts to repair or replace damaged or missing parts from the vintage models I have restored. Best
    advice
    is to ask specific questions to get the best help in the world at your fingertips. Happy modelling and cheers from me Colin.
    6 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    My other hobby
    Hi. Mi private pilots license also does not include night flying. But interesting is to consider when they define what is included. When having a certain number of instructed night flights you are entitled to fly in the vicinity of an airport. Vicinity of an airport German definition is that you have to be able to see the traffic in the pattern of an airport. When I did my flight from San Jose, CA to Phoenix SkyHarbour, I was able to see the traffic being about 1.5 hours from the airport. The night definition is that the night begins 30 minutes after sunset. So was entitled to do this night approaches as you can see the traffic in the pattern, on a large airport like Sky Harbour, and in the Southwest of the USA from very far. But when doing these landing operations at a large international airport, shortly before touch-down you are flying into a black hole. Due to this on my first landing in Sky Harbour, I made an awful 3-point-landing making the plane jump 2 or 3 times. Fortunately, I was aware of how to react properly when this happens. The second special experience is when you are taxiing on the runway to get to its exit and report "runway vacated" in a small plane like a Cessna Cutlass the lights lose their structure. So I went to search for the yellow line on the left side of the runway until it curved into the exit. But this yellow line and the blue runway lights are hugely distant from each other so I had to focus my efforts to stay to the right of the blue lights but still being able to see the yellow line. Once I crossed the lines that mark that you are leaving the runway I could report back to the tower "runway vacated". My second-night landing was when I did try to fly to an airport next to the "Grand Canyon". As the report of the airport said expect gain or lose 40 knots of speed on final I decided not to land and flew back To Phoenix. What a wonderful experience. The landscape was already impressive on my flight to the Grand Canyon, but it was topped when I flew by night. First I was in contact with one center in charge while being above a certain altitude. Then this center passes you to one in charge below that altitude. Makes you feel like a professional pilot. Finally, this center did pass me to the tower of Sky Harbor. I was approaching from the north. Then, what controllers of large airports like they make you cross the airport midfield what ensures you stay away from the other traffic of the airport. You cannot imagine what a sight it is when you approach a large city like Phoenix by night. After he gave me its clear to land I was remembering my awful night landing earlier. When I did have the feeling that I was about to touch-down I did control the airplane so that all you felt on touch-down was the vibration of the wheels turning. A Geman friend of mine that was on the plane with me was so impressed that he said he would fly again with me at any time. One other fact I want to share is the importance to really dominate the phraseology of radio communication and what Americans call to know the system. On my first approach by night to Phoenix, I did confuse the last VOR with the ILS beacon. So when switching to what I thought to be the last VOR the needle got full to the right and stayed there. So I did a report I was not able to tune in the VOR and so tower did give me instructions for the further approach. When you fly in from the west you fly over a mountain full of antennas and the red lights on top of it. I felt very good being routed by the tower. Those of you familiar with night-flight and how to find the location of the airport know the rule of the black spot within the lights of the city is where the airport is. Well, Sky Harbor has the terminal building between its 2 runways and so Sky Harbor does not look like a black spot. So when the tower asked me if I had field in sight I did respond negative a couple of times until he reported that I was on the 45 for the runway. Then I finally saw the airport. Here is something that is the consequence of good radio training. My instructor always said to report negative until you are really enabled to say affirm. So Tower knows when you are really able to report affirm. Do not be shy, it is your and others life! The second time on that approach was when tower gave me the instruction: 3-60 to the right until further
    advice
    ! My teacher played the role of the tower and one of the things he said to teach us the right behavior was to stay silent and fly as instructed until tower contacts you again. I do confess I had never done 3-60s neither by night nor during the day! So I put the plane into a standard curve, kept it there, watched my altitude and speed. Being so familiar with this instruction from the tower I felt "at home" and this being relaxed was very useful!
    6 months ago by Hellmut1956
    Forum
    fuse holder
    Hi all thank you all for
    advice
    and comments , I have had a good look at all the suggestion and decided to go for the 3m scotch suitcase type and I will let you know if they are ok. now I have a question for all when choosing motors should you chose a voltage rating equal to the of the battery or higher then the voltage of the battery
    6 months ago by teejay
    Forum
    A return to the hobby!
    I would appreciate some input as to the type of battery. My inclination is to go for a lead-acid, as I would like the additional weight. I feel that most models look too light on the water. The motor is a mtroniks 660 with a Viper Marine 25A ESC. Any
    advice
    would be appreciated!
    6 months ago by J Barry
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the
    advice
    of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    3 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Equipment wire
    Try here for your wire and anything else. Brilliant service and
    advice
    . https://www.componentshop.co.uk/👍👍
    7 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Equipment wire
    I am currently working on a few projects at a time. One boat, a Police Launch, has several working lights that I have aded as extras. I have quite a bit of available room so I have used 7/0.2 equipment wire for all of the LED`s. For my Pilot Boat, I have very little room to run the wires and so will have to reduce drastically. I cannot seem to find smaller wire which leads me to believe that I am looking in the wrong places. Please can I ask for
    advice
    as to which wire size I should be looking for and where to look for it. I like to colour code the wires also to make fault tracing easier, so multiple colours would be an added bonus. Thanks. Peter.😊
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    May be too late, but have you thought about real planking? This was my first attempt following
    advice
    on various youtube videos and studying pictures of the full sized boat. Planks supplied by Jotika. They have various sizes and woods and worked out to quantity when I gave them the deck measurements. I used cyano to glue to a plastic deck and sealed with a proprietory outdoor satin varnish. I found it very satisfying and was pleased with the end result. Ps. Please excuse the black dots of fly sht. on the deck in the first picture. Steve
    7 months ago by cormorant
    Blog
    1-35 scale S100 schennllboot
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need
    advice
    on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    1 year ago by teejay
    Forum
    Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'
    Thanks for the
    advice
    . I have changed to a smaller battery and moved it fwrd (it is R/C). I have also tried to see if there is any internal ballast but that's not easy without removing the deck. I think its time to drill the lead keel as suggested. I have found a local expert who says he will do the job! Will report on progress. Many thanks. John
    7 months ago by Xtal
    Blog
    Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen
    I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of
    advice
    here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.
    7 months ago by Ianh
    Response
    SA Valour Class Frigate
    Just a further update on my MEKO Frigate. Thanks to the patience and
    advice
    from Doug together with a local boff friend, JohnO' with
    advice
    on electronics, I have now ventured into the realm of YouTube for the first time and am able to provide the short video suggested by Reilly4 some while ago. This sequence is returning the heli back into the hangar. The "Out"sequence is the reverse. Both "Out" and "In"are sequential on one channel of the TX. I have been told that the address below must be pasted into your browser. Hope it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04qHrO96lS0
    7 months ago by Joburg-sailor
    Blog
    Range Safety Launch?
    The ‘Range Safety Launch’…………. Intro. I am now the owner of this boat. Wooden, good hull lines and hull paint work but needing to be finished. I am told that it looks like it started life as a kit, but has had considerable modification to at least the above deck layout and detail.
    advice
    is that it could be a rather simplified Range Safety Launch, but maybe I can use a little ‘artistic licence’ and just make it look interesting and capable. There are two main reasons for sharing this project. 1. I will undoubtedly need guidance 2. Maybe some of the information will assist others The hull is 44 inches ( 112cm ) long and 14 inches (36cm ) wide, it has two brushed MFA Torpedo 800 motors………. and weighs in currently at 15 lbs 4ozs (6.91 kgs). It is large enough for me to be able to work on reasonably comfortably and apart from the cabin/upper deck areas to be ‘improved’, I aim to introduce sound, lighting, active radar sweep, search light, together with maybe a deck hoist and water /fire monitor appliance. At my age it is difficult to tell the difference between wishful thinking and dementing…… However, the prime aim is to try and achieve at least some of this whilst having the boat usable during the current ‘season’. There is so much knowledge, good will and help available on this site that even before I touched a thing, information came pouring in. If anyone feels like making a contribution then please just ‘pile in’. Have ordered some parts so next time should have something to show. NPJ.
    10 months ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'
    Many thanks for your helpful reply. The line between the wooden hull and the lead part of the keel is very clear so knowing where to drill will not be a problem. Do you think a fostner drill bit in a hand drill (slow speed) will be best for drilling lead. its something I've not done before so any
    advice
    would be much appreciated. I will put some more pictures up hopefully tomorrow.
    7 months ago by Xtal
    Forum
    Voltage increasing via regulator
    Evening all, I have a voltage regulator I’d like to fit to my Southport tug (currently running on 7.2v Ni-MHs) in order to get it up to 12v. I’m after more speed/power and would particularly like the bow thruster running a bit faster than it does on 7.2v. So, the questions are, where to fit it in the wiring loom, and what will the effect be on the battery life?
    advice
    please! Thank you in advance...
    7 months ago by EricMB
    Media
    RAF Fire float
    This is a old model I purchased to renovate after few months here is the completed build. Must give many thanks for all the
    advice
    and help given to me by the members of Model Boats, and thanks to all the other builds I gathered a lot of the information to the build. Tried to get a near original model but a few discrepancies as not all to scale. We’d more practice and experience this is my third build so am still learning.
    7 months ago by Elsrickle
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Thanks for the information. Following Doug’s lead I came up with an idea for a scale fluorescent light fixture to install on the pilot house ceiling. I have odds & ends in my spare parts boxes that I can use to make the fixture, complete with a reflector & transparent pebble-surface scale diffuser. Even though the fixture won’t be visible I still want to achieve nice, even light in the pilot house with minimal shadows. The fixture design is still on the mental drawing board at this point but I’m reasonably sure it’ll work in the tug’s pilot house. if it doesn’t, however, I’ll definitely look into your suggestion. Thanks for reading my post & for your helpful
    advice
    , too. Pete
    7 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Styrene Allergy?
    I started this post hoping to get
    advice
    on allergic reaction to modelling with styrene but it seems to have turned into soldering problems. I'd really like to know if anybody else has had any trouble with styrene and how they coped with it. Fair winds, Nerys
    7 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Doug Keeping late hours again I see! The Gift Horse, yes, I have seen it, but not for years. Not as good as one of my favourite films, The Cruel Sea, but still a good watch. However, I see the full version is on YouTube, so being the cheapskate that I am you have encouraged me to give it another viewing. Once again, thanks for the
    advice
    . Cheers Steve
    7 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Mtronics and Lipo's
    Thanks for your
    advice
    . I already have 3 boats with Mtronics Viper ESC's, and I didn't want to change them if it wasn't necessary.
    7 months ago by rossiter
    Forum
    St Canute Planking Help?
    Hello everyone, l am looking for some tips /
    advice
    with the planking on the St Canute currently under construction. I have completed 5 planks on each side, but now it’s getting a bit complicated at the stern end. I have sat and thought about it over a few days, do l plank the majority of the hull and leave the stern to plank in small strips of left over planks? I acknowledge that to get the ideal shape there will be some considerable filling and shaping. If anyone out there has some pointers that would be great. Have attached a couple of photos, not very good but will try better photos in the morning. Thanks guys for your time and help, Richard
    8 months ago by Richard7
    Forum
    Darby One Design hydro...
    As I have never seen one up close I don't know. They only fly inside the camp, but some of the pilots fish in my local lake which is behind the camp, and we chat about models in general and they will sometimes offer help in getting my boat down to the water. They offer
    advice
    on my radio systems as the old vintage stuff I have can cause interference. So they advised me to use 2.4ghz here. Next time I meet with one of them I will ask about the engine details. Cheers Colin.
    8 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    St Canute Planking Help?
    Hey guys, I cannot thank you all enough for all these suggestions and
    advice
    , what a great website this is!!! I am swaying to purchase some blacks of balsa and give this a try, I did the same with my first model of the Billing Boat Norden (much smaller model) but on that occasion the stern block came with the kit. Does anyone have a website that I can purchase these blacks of balsa? I will try my local Hobbycraft store but they are sadly winding down on a lot of items. it is my intention to paint the St Canute the same colours as Billing Boats suggest, so none of the planks will be varnished but I will have a lot of sanding and shaping to do. Many thanks again to you all,👍 Kindest regards Richard
    8 months ago by Richard7
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good
    advice
    ! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor “squeal” and “stutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected it has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to “soft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. in spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.
    8 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Doug Just had a look at Life Colour which on first sight would suit me better with the acrylic paints. Here is my first attempt at scratch building. Nothing glued down yet as I have still got plenty to do before I can put the deck in place. The funnels are cigar tubes and I have a smoker in 2 and 4. I decided to lash out on 3D printed main armament but I still need to make the gun shields. Thanks for your help and
    advice
    so far and best of luck with your 1/350 - hope you will keep me updated on progress. Cheers Steve
    8 months ago by cormorant


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