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The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model
but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender.
So here we go
Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW.
I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that?
One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.
2 years ago by mturpin013
Work with Balsa wood
If you are having trouble finding dope, try full sized
supplies. They may sell it in bulk, and as previously mentioned I buy US stuff by the quart can, (a lot cheaper than hobby shops) and lasts for years if well sealed (thin with acetone if it gets too thick, - or the proper thinners)
20 days ago by jbkiwi
Re: The Instrument Panel.
Nice job Rob!
If I might offer a suggestion which might make it easier to make gauge panels for future projects. To save trying to cut around tiny prints, (fingers/eyes don't work so well with age) what others do with
dashes etc is to drill through the dash panel with a spur drill (pictured) of the appropriate size for the particular gauge, against a piece of hardwood, after marking the hole positions on masking tape applied firmly to the panels' face (to prevent damaging the face). You get a nice accurate hole which you can edge seal and blacken, thereby giving 'depth' to your gauge cluster.
You can then roughly cut the prints to size and position/glue them on a backing panel and spray with clear, or sandwich them between some thin acetate sheet, the backing plate and your dash panel. Probably selling snow to Inuits, but others might be able to use the method.
2 months ago by jbkiwi
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build N
Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD
wheel collars (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each collar, then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD
wheel collars (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each collar, then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Drive shaft tubes are epoxied in but still have to tidy epoxy up and streamline the drive shaft tubes back and front where they leave the hull (see sketch)to avoid cavitation at higher speeds.
Struts are same brass strip, wrapped around shaft tube and drawn tight with pliers, then legs cut and filed to size and soldered to hull 'mounts' (again using full length strip and cutting to size and filing later). These will be epoxied into the hull and thick cyno'd to the tube as they are only for decoration. Steering will be by a plastic
cable (40yr old Graupner left-over cable actually) running up past half way to the servo. No new technology here!
2 months ago by jbkiwi
Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build E
Might try that sometime Martin sounds good. I buy proper Randolf brand (USA) butyrate
dope from a local 100%
accessory/parts co by the quart, (about 50 NZD as against 20 for 250ml from the hobby shop) so next time I'll try some. Have used it with talc (now I think of it - had completely forgotten DUH !). Good for fine finish on the plane models pre painting. Thanks for reminding me!
3 months ago by jbkiwi
Anteo 2 Tug
Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model
for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
6 months ago by Dick
Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this.
Especially .. this type is mainly designed for
control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only
proportional control of servos or ESC.
There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT
but these are far more expensive...
The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder.
there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-.
channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly
channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO
Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT
Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions.
These channels again allow only proportional control.
Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6
settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this)
It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the model.
I hope it helped you a little bit..
7 months ago by tomarack
Cooling the motor - an experiment.
I considered doing this on the crash tender using the supplied
prop adapter that the motor came with so Ill be interested to see how it performs.
7 months ago by mturpin013
hi ya Marky, judging by your building skills - it wont take you much to move right over to radio controlling a model - if you have the skill to master building, you have the skills to master radio control. Go for it :-) heres an idea, look on some of the websites who sell radio gear and buy yourself a reasonably priced 2.4 handset with the receiver then you can purchase a couple of servos to plug into the receiver along with a battery to power it all and then have a play around and find exactly what it does, and then programme if needs be. Golden rule, 27MHz 40 MHz &2.4 can be used on the land and on water only. 2.4 along with 35 MHz and be used for
only. So 2.4 is the only one interchangeable between land and air. Basic rules for buying a transmitter in the UK anyway.
amendment ,27MHz can also be used for
7 months ago by JOHN
Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
Hi John, thanks for the help, model shop in Hereford said that they should set up the same on the basic channels. Apparently the A or H in the series number referred to either
Thanks again for your help with this issue.
7 months ago by Colin H
With the size my workshop will turn out to be, That is a very tempting idea😆 Part will be for the restoration of my Billings sea Queen, and part for my other hobby of model
, I have a number of repair jobs due to the haulage company when we moved here to Portugal.
7 months ago by Wingcoax
Sea Queen - strakes
I found when fitting spray rails to use triangular stock like trailing edge section for
wings. it looks neat and bends more easily than square stock.Fitted thin edge up the right angled face forming the deflecting face. Filled and sanded it blends well into the hull. Maybe not true scale but looks nice. it comes in many sizes and suppliers.SLEC is one for starters and Hobbies is another. Balsa Cabin another. Just loads if you use uncle Google.👍
7 months ago by onetenor
1950s sea commander refurb.
".....Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones ....."
There was never a 'templates sheet', of course. There were just the original kit parts. This is a fundamental problem with trying to 'save' old model boat plans. The
plans usually have all parts described precisely. Many - possibly most - boat kits are essentially sets of parts with assembly instructions.
So, if you need to reproduce an old kit, you need to include part templates as well. Which means a lot of work for someone. Not only do you have to obtain an example of the original kit, measure it up and draw it using a CAD package, but you also have to allow for the fact that wood changes, and that die-cut parts may be cut badly, and so what you have measured may need correcting - sometimes quite extensively.
Here's a classic example - the old Yeoman MINX, with templates drawn up...
8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
Slow going ...
After building the mine laying rails I then purchased scale German mines , only to find out that they are 4mm wider than the rails on the boat, ...what to do , cut the mines (8) down and rework the base and wheels to fit the boats rails or move the rails wider ..... moving the rails ... slow going , found that the motors I have are more
/drone use per the esc, , no reverse .... Hobbyking does have esc that will work , still need a couple of servos and a radio , just not sure if a 6 Chanel land/ boat radio or get a large channel stick radio would be better ... as always $$$$ is an issue .
Work on the messy table as I fit cut and replace fittings and supports ...
Smooth sailing to all...
8 months ago by BW3
HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
I used to buy the Airfix kits, mainly model
, for 2 bob each. They came in a plastic bag with the plans attached to the outside.
Attached to my bedroom ceiling with strands of cotton the English fighters shot down many a German which billowed cotton wool painted red and black.
After gun deck now populated (excuse the snow effect which is dust caused by fettling my MA/SB hull)
8 months ago by cormorant
Hi Doug, Boanno. Or happy New year. I have been looking at HK and Cornwall models for Boats but had to go to SLEC for
bits. it cost in postage but good quality.
9 months ago by Wingcoax
Bom dia Wingcoax,
If I want something pronto I go online to Conrad or Krick here in Germany and usually get the 'stuff' in one or two days.
If I order from Turnigy/Hobbyking I make sure the stuff comes from the EU warehouse. Then it's usually here within the week.
Most of the stuff has reasonably understandable instructions, or I can find it on the web.
Learned that the hard way with a delivery from China that took several weeks and and then cost me a small fortune in German customs duty 😡
Model shops around Munich are basically model railway,
or toys🤔 Such is life today! Cheers, Doug 😎
9 months ago by RNinMunich
Hi All, Although i come from an
background i am also into boating. I used to have a total of five model shops within a half hour drive to source my parts, before emigrating i had 1 who was mainly into cars so i had to go online. Now in Portugal I have no shops within 4 hours so have to rely on internet purchases.
9 months ago by Wingcoax
Not been araound for awhile as I have been playing with
as well, I have however found time to scratch build a Fairy Huntsman which I now want to upgrade to modern electrics, a brushless motor and esc etc, should I avoid lipo's due to the heat issues or can I use them ok.
The hull is 42 inches long any suggestions on motor size would be appreciated, also esc size, the boat seems a bi on the heavy side.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
9 months ago by deltaman
(Tug Boat) Brooklyn Steam Tug
I built this from a Dumas Tug Kit, nice kit with lots of detail. Two SLA batteries provide ballast along with lead weight. Gearing is from an older type model
type. ESC is a marine type, forward, backward drive, big 4" Dumas prop. This tug is back in dry dock for addition of led navigational lighting. The initial build was undertaken while I was battling stage 4 cancer, it keep my mind occupied during chemo and surgery recovery, stayed positive! Model building is very meditative to me, try it if you have't, Have fun. Photos to come once out of dry dock. (Motor: 550 dc) (ESC: Tamar T15) (8/10)
9 months ago by Joe727
HI Rick, long time since i have seen an Africa Queen, seem to remember that i used an
flexi lead, this went round the stern and along to the servo.
They come in 3ft lengths and replace the pushrod.
9 months ago by jarvo
i did wonder about the shaft it is a little flimsy so thanks for confirming that and the prop, i a still pondering a motor as there seems so little room i looked at a out runner from a
but maybe that would be too quick
10 months ago by sandgrounder
My other hobby
Good to see other PPLs and former PPLs on the Model Boats website. I took mine at Liverpool Airport known now as JLA (John Lennon Airport) in June 1984 and completed it in January 85. Trained with Liverpool Flying School aka Keenair in Cherokee 140s and a PA 38 Tomahawk. Later I moved into Air Nova which was also a Liverpool club and the actor Lewis Collins was also a member of that Club. At the time I was a member of Merseyside IVC (Inter Varsity Club) thus had plenty of passengers. One of them was Victoria Field, my former psychology lecturer who later became famous as a psychologist and writer.
Eventually Air Nova moved to Hawarden Airport near Chester but the Club folded shortly after. I then joined the in house Club based at the field and I ceased flying in November 2016.
Best flights were going over Snowdon VFR and down the Dee Valley. I also flew over Colwyn Bay to have a look at the boating lake though I haven't sailed there. I also saw the lakes at Llandudno West Shore and LLanfairfechan. The latter I am considering for sailing my fast electrics. Downside to PPL flying was the crosswind component of the
being 17 knots , At Hawarden there is only one runway the 04/22 and Liverpool the 09/27. I did have to cancel many times due to this. Thankfully sailing model boats is much more enjoyable as we don't have that many snags to deal with and if the motor stops we don't have to do an emergency landing.😎😁😁
10 months ago by boaty
My other hobby
Just recalled one of my weirder experiences on a commercial flight!
Was also on the memorable trip to Uganda end of the 80ies, just after idi Amin had left the stage!
Was on a hop from Nairobi to Kampala (Entebbe).
was a venerable Boeing 727of Kenya Airways.
Had a funny feeling climbing aboard as I saw the oil streaks over the wings and underside of the fuselage. The smell inside and state of the floor was more like a public toilet than a commercial
After taking my window seat I was joined by a large 'native' Momma, who took up the remaining two seats in the row, and then I realised why the floor was as it was.😲
She plumped herself down with a big grin all round and carefully settled a large wooden crate with slats on her expansive lap!
The crate was full of LIVE CHICKENS!!!!!!!!!!!!
At first my ghast was absolutely flabbered😲 I expected that next someone would start building a fire to roast one, but it turned out to be quite funny and even useful!
When the 'In flight meal' arrived it looked to me like old British Rail sandwiches (banana shaped) that they had sold on around 1960! I spent the rest of the flight feeding them to the chickens to the delight of 'Momma' and others around us, not to mention the chickens 😁
If you fly around long enough, and to off beat places, all sorts of odd things can happen! 😉 Priceless memories 😊 Cheers all, Doug 😎
10 months ago by RNinMunich
My other hobby
Yeah! Doug, I think about it now and wished I had continued. in
1979 my wife (at that time my fiance) and I, went to Doncaster light aviation club to see a Piper Cherokee that was for sale.(very cheap), when I saw it, I realised why the price was so low....all the interior had been fitted out in.............PINK FUR!!!! it was Cr**. Then a friend of mine asked if I wanted a 1/4 share in a Grumman Traveller stored at Barton in Manchester, it sounded good, but only getting the
on days the other's didn't want was not good with me, so I bought an E type, with kept me amused for a while😊
10 months ago by Rookysailor
My other hobby
Greetings Hellmut1956. Missed my PPL by two hours in 1978. Was asked by the service engineer name Bob at Blackpool Aerodrome if I fancied having a lesson two or three times a week, as he wanted to teach but needed to collect the hours required. I had a band at Pontins holiday camp, and Bob used to come in the bar nearly every night, and asked if I liked the idea of learning to fly👍
The question was 'How much', no charge just sign my teaching sheet, so 30hrs in a Cessna 150, very nice , but the season ended Oct 30th 1978, and I needed two more hours, but without an
! why bother.....
Wished I could have had a video recorder to keep the memories.
10 months ago by Rookysailor
My other hobby
I've gotten a chance to fly a few times.
And loved every time!
But it's been on big jumbo jets!
Never had the opportunity to fly on a small
Now that sounds like great fun...….
10 months ago by figtree7nts
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) it's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made in China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. it's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". in saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my
ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)
10 months ago by jbkiwi
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Am using the HobbyKing 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their programming card. The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one.
My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an
pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S batteries with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use?
The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment!
Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.
10 months ago by RHBaker
All hooked up, nowt happens...
I've never used a trigger throttle (and never want to!) but I suspect that yanking back is Full throttle, which means you need to push it forward for programming!! Corresponding to stick back (or down) on a normal two stick set. Which is motor stop on such an
ESC with no bacckuds.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: just checked the manual for a typical Flysky Pistol Grip set (usual Chinglish gibberish🤔) but it confirms that trigger hard back is 'Full Ahead' !!
BTW: since you appear to be using an
ESC on a Car/Boat radio set (not a good idea!) make sure that before you switch on the RX that the throttle trigger is pushed right forward. Otherwise the motor will go off half cock straight away. if you release the trigger it will probably go to the 'Half Ahead' position. So mind your fingers.😡
10 months ago by RNinMunich
This model belongs to a friend of mine who had this in his attic where it got damaged and its condition deteriorated, he asked me if I would refurbish it.
This is a static model and I have submitted this to help to show the variety of craft that the RAF Marine Branch operated in the 68 years
of its existence.
The Armoured Target Boat was the brainchild of the Air Ministry's "I've had a good idea" Department. The requirement was for a target boat that could be bombed from the air with practice bombs.
The 40ft Armoured Target Boats were developed from the slightly smaller 37.5ft ATBs which had been designed by Scott-Paine and others at British Power Boat in 1932.
A couple of years later, in 1934, whilst bringing the first of the 64ft HSLs into service, it was realised by the Air Ministry that the condition of the
had been advancing and that it was necessary to provide additional protection to improve the first type of Armoured Target Boats (the 37.5ft type). T.E. Shaw suggested to Scott-Paine that he should increase the length of the 37.5ft type to 40ft and fit twin rudders. in addition the Air Ministry prepared a new armour plating arrangement which gave separate protection for the crew and engines and coxswain. There was a further alteration to the forward bulkhead which resulted in it being changed to vertical instead of raked fore and aft to overcome the new conditions for bombing.
A long series of trials were carried out with the ballast with the 40ft type launch and eventually it was approved. The 40ft thus became the standard type Armoured Target Boat (ATB). The first batch of 15 craft of the 40ft type were ordered in 1935 with further batches being ordered in 1936, 1937 and 1938.
A further addition was the introduction of a 3rd engine, this helped to maintain a good speed on the ranges, and helped to counterbalance the the boat as it had been found that in a tight turn the 37.5ft ATB had a tendency to roll over. (5/10)
10 months ago by colindavies
I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the brushless motor in this boat with an
Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse gearbox with a clutch, the gearbox is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a water pump so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool. (Motor: Os 40 fourstroke) (10/10)
10 months ago by Biscuit
Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
as a general rule of thumb not more than around 40° either way.
Otherwise they start to act as brakes, much like the air brakes on
There are some other considerations and tricks, but start with that and see how it goes. Let us know 😉
11 months ago by RNinMunich
Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''
The Veron F.P.B does appear to be a very rare model and I feel £300 would be a reasonable price especially when you take into consideration how much a modern day manufacturer would want. Just look at prices for Deans Marine models, mainly their Vosper M.T.B. which is a lot smaller. Also Veron kits seem to have been overlooked and the only model that is easy to obtain is the Slec version of their 26inch River Police Launch. Phil Smith was a great designer of boats and
. I sold my Veron RTTL in the mid 1990s and my fleet today consists of one original Sea Commander, one 34 inch Crash Tender , both of which I restored, an italeri PT109 and two RTR fast electrics. TOP TIP for anyone who buys your F.T.B- trace around the parts and use them to build the model while keeping the kit intact. I do this with my Keil Kraft control line aeroplanes.
11 months ago by boaty
Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''
Hi Kevin, thanks for the info.
I agree about the motors. All my
are now electric. The noise isn't as nice, but the lack of oil all over the place is - and they always start!
Best offer I've had so far is £250. I have a bloke coming for a look this evening. I've been told by a collector of such things that I could get >£300, though that seems unlikely to me.
11 months ago by jonryan
1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit
modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)
11 months ago by teejay
VOSPER 46'' Crash Tender
Actually 4 pole ,
"Graupner HPD 2920-4000
High-end brushless motor
Particularly suitable for: MiniMono, MiniHydro, MiniCats, MiniHydroplanes,
with wingspan up to 1 m, off-road and on-road 1:12
?Special CNC-machined housing for maximum heat dissipation
?High-efficiency 4-pole 12-slot brushless motor
?High-performance rotor with Kevlar reinforcement
?High-purity copper coils for optimised conductivity
?Extremely strong sintered neodymium magnets
?Intense torque at low weight
Operating voltage range : 4,2-16,8 V
No-load speed: 29600 U/min
All-up weight, approx. : 90 g
Free shaft length: 10 mm
Recommended controller: Navy V75 G7257
Output : 650 W
Number of poles: 4
Permissible motor direction : R und L
Nominal voltage: 7,4 V
Case length: 30 mm
Shaft diameter: 4 mm
Case diameter: 29 mm
Revolutions/Volt: 4000 "
Taken from one Google, first response at Cornwall Models Boats!😉
Note. 650W, Nominal voltage 7.4V. No wonder it's a bit quick on 11.1V 😲
Cheers, Doug 😎
11 months ago by RNinMunich
Hi Dave I've just started this kit and although I have done modelling, rc model
,for years I am still trying to get my head round planking the hull.
I will be following your build closely, and if you don't mind post a photo or two in your build. Looking forward to more.
12 months ago by Dick
Members might like to view my experimental solar powered "BOAT " More like an
carrier !! No batteries carried even for the radio. Brushless motor running from 24 cells giving 12volts. Slightest shadow will stop it.The panel i made myself by buying individual solar cells from Ebay and soldering them up.The cells are sandwiched between glass which makes it quite heavy and next project will have no glass but the cells are VERY fragile.
12 months ago by lesliebreame
Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver
A long shot, is it possible to convert a Mcgregor transmitter and receiver from 35meg (
only) to a suitable surface model frequency eg 27Mhz band, the 459Mhz band and the 2.4Ghz band.
If it is any instruction available?
12 months ago by mturpin013
20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 9
I would check out the water cooled back plates for the out- runners as they will possibly run real hot if at all loaded up without cooling, unless you have fans like
propellers (even then and in open air they still get hot!) I would look at this seriously to avoid cooking your motors. Hobby King usually has various cooling parts, or EBay, Aliexpress, Banggood etc. Bit late now I suppose, but water cooled in-runners (around 2000kv 28mm diam) are a better idea for boats. You can buy in-runners and water jackets to fit them as I did but they need flushing after use with CRC or similar to avoid rust, (I'll be copper tube wrapping the next lot, then there are no worries)
12 months ago by jbkiwi
EarlyVosper M.T.B by Simplas
Fuji 15 was a good glow engine which I don't think it is manufactured any more. Aero version max B.H.P was just below .40 when tested. if it was in a model
it would have been around .20 to .25 depending on prop size which was good then for a small capacity glowplug . Marine versions when on the water put out a little less and the water cooled jacket was never as efficient as the finned cylinder jacket of the aero version.
My two Aerokits boats, the Sea Commander and the Crash Tender are powered by single Speed 600 motors running on either 8.4 or 9.6 volt Ni Mh batteries. Performance is equal to that of marine diesel power such as the 2.46 Ed Racer and D.C 2.46 Rapier, the latter I used to watch in the fast steering events in the early 1960s at Fleetwood and Coronation Park in Crosby just outside Liverpool. Taycol powered versions would be obviously slower due to the additional weight were far more reliable and you did not have to put up with injuries from excessive use of a starting cord with kids watching and "extracting the urine" shouting "why wont it go mister".
12 months ago by boaty
No Martin, I don't think so.
Once again; it's not so much what you say but HOW you say it.
If your chat with the 'only geezer' was in the same vein as your recent posts I can fully understand that the reaction was 'don't call us - we'll call you'.
Patience is NOT an excuse for wasting time. it is an essential component of successful negotiation. During my career I was often involved in systems design and contract negotiations for COMMS systems for ships yet to be ordered and built. Many of such projects took 5 to 7 years or more to come to fruition. My perseverance and patience paid off.
I was the one who signed the contracts! I often heard from the shipyards and/or navies involved that they were put off by the 'pushy' tactics used by my competitors with less patience.
Tolerance is also not a weakness. Lack of it IS.
Differing opinions are fine, just depends how they are expressed.
Denigrating and insulting others who have differing interests as morons is not the 'fine English art' !
Re: Dumbphone control Apps; YOU don't necessarily need to know (a Luddite wouldn't want to or need to anyway!) but the parents of your grand kids SHOULD in this day and age. Tell 'em to look for Apps like 'Quiet Time'. This enables them to define times that the kids can access the web online via smartphone and when it is blocked.
And no, the kids can't normally get around it. if they can; leave 'em alone to make their millions!
Re: Woodies; Super duper. You have seen that I have put a tremendous amount of effort into renovating the Sea Scout that my Dad built in the early sixties. I enjoyed the process and learned a lot doing it. But I am not fixed on that particular line of model boat / model ship building. if that's your only thing - fine. But why berate those of us who take a wider view and also have an interest and find challenges in making shipboard functions work in miniature in all sorts of ships?
"I really couldn't give a sh*t if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff"
No, of course you don't have to pretend to like 'all the other stuff' but you also don't have to decry those that DO like the other stuff, as you often do the tug aficionados for instance.
OK, I can understand an aversion to warships as such if someone is a died in the wool pacifist, but nevertheless some appreciation of the skills involved in producing such outstanding warship models as seen on this site is not out of order, or...?
(Bye the bye; I've often noticed that 'pacifists' have a particularly aggressive way of expressing themselves!?)
After 30 odd years here in Germany I'm out of touch with the ground roots in UK, but over here things don't look so black. There are thriving model boat clubs all over. W.r.t. 'exciting aspects'; there are clubs in Germany, Holland and France and italy also I think who happily and skilfully re-enact sea battles and convoy battles. There is at least one club in South England that also does that I believe, in Southampton or Portsmouth?
Don't get Channel 4 here (re Battle of Britain re-run you mentioned) but I do get DMAX, which shows a series called 'Die Modellbauer'. in this the crémé de la crémé of German model making is depicted and judged for the annual cup at the international Model Show here.
It covers everything from fire trucks, excavators, boats and ships of all kinds, and
of of all types including turbine jets.
Criteria for the competition being: 1) Shall be externally identical to the original in every detail (down to the rivets!)l, 2) Shall be able to perform each and every function of the original. 3) 150 days to design, complete and demonstrate the model.
The point being that with extremely few solo exceptions the models are almost always built by a father and son partnership.
So, sorry if the situation is drastically different in UK but 'over here' it ain't so black as you paint. Maybe it's a question of the attitude of the parents?
BTW: for a fantastic example of 'modelling on a mammoth scale' pop across to Hamburg and have a look at the 'Miniature Wonderland' in the old Hafen City. All 1/87 scale, the largest model railway layout in the world, but also all types of
and ships in action as well.
Also shown from time to time on various documentary TV channels.
BTW2: don't worry about the brass bashing, I'll work it out for myself.
Have fun with the Taycols.
Cheers, Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
I watched that prog too.
being my other main hobby.(and angling ) There is at least one other "Tranny" in the hobby and she also is a very good model maker/flyer. is there anything in it d'ye think?🤔
1 year ago by onetenor
No Doug, you have quite the wrong idea about me. I would love to get a club going and have done all I could to do so including meeting the one only geezer who offered to have a cuppa in the local caff. We parted with him saying he'd tell those members of a distant club he went to that had water problems and would call me. Guess what? You know the rest. THAT's why my attitude is **** '**. I've had it constantly from model boaters. Little enclaves of mates who will NOT countenance new members (model railways clubs too as it happens, more old farts). What else should I say faced with that attitude. No, I am NOT a tolerant or patient man, that's for sure. Patience is just an excuse for wasting time.
I have no idea what apps are available for 'phone control. I don't even have one. Whilst my kids have made an excellent job generally of raising my Grandchildren, they don't seem to know either what to do about the latest fad for Playstation and 'phone.
But one things for sure, none of them show the slightest interest in making or doing anything and are part of the first generation to be absolutely bloody useless.
I just hope the three of my 5 grandchildren who have common sense will do something with that, but I know damned well it won't be keeping modelmaking going or any other endeavour that requires real skill and application. These matters are of concern in all the hobbies I have any interest in. Old boats (yes Woodies and why not?), old
, old bikes and old cars. As long as WE live, eh? Well that ain't gonna be that much longer in any kind of fit state to go the pond on a regular basis with heavy models. So actually we WILL be witnessing the death of all those groups I mention above and many more. From the care home windows, unless we're lucky enough to cop our clogs before that living death happens. When you hear "Can't be arsed" from the mouths of, effectively, babes, you know the craft world is in trouble. And I mean craft, not gluing bits of cut card together with Prit sticks under the banner of that foul word "crafting".
I really couldn't give a **** if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff. And as far as I can see they don't.
My comments about the future are based on my observations and chats with established long term members of those hobbies who all agree the end really is nigh. All those balding, grey haired, pot bellied, probably bearded old geezers standing around with stoops from their long knackered backs, all wondering whether this time next year they'll still have their Honda Jazz or a mobility scooter.
If that's how it's all going, so be it. As you say we won't be here to witness the real death. And the more exciting aspects of the model hobby? There was a programme on tonight about modelmakers flying re-runs of Battle of Britain air battles with similar sized models, laser guns, damage smoke, etc. 2 youngish blokes, the rest, including the German contingent, older guys. Oh and a Tranny and I don't mean a transmitter! in 10 years time that programme will not be makeable.
BTW the Tranny was by far the best pilot.
1 year ago by Westquay
That might have been the case before the mobile phone/mini computer boom, Colin, but now they don't learn anything at school, there are no clubs at school and all they want is 'phone games/youtubes of other nerds playing games better than them (yes really!!).
They simply cannot see any pleasure or fulfillment in making something and let's face it, apart from racing yachts and very fast raceboats, model boat operation will bore the best of us after 5 minutes! Going round and round with a coaster is limited to say the least. I get my pleasure from making them and almost none from playing with them. Try offering that as an argument to a kid who loves Fortnight or Minecraft. You haven't a chance! Model
or car racing will always take them if there's a hint of interest as those are more exciting, if expensive.
1 year ago by Westquay
A return to the hobby!
It's a disgrace how bad some plans are from the suppliers. I bought an
drawing to make a De Havilland Hornet Moth. it was about 15 quid...more than enough and was so appalling when I got it back that I had to redraw large parts of it. Arguments about accuracy are one thing, but when the side view and plan of the wing is different it's time to cry "foul".
I paid what I thought was an appalling amount for Harold Underhill drawings of a Scottish Zulu fishing boat, but at least they were very detailed and accurate. Mind you for that price they damned well should have been!
And don't even get me started on the plans drawn by Gary Griswold of runabouts and mahogany hotrods. I made the one called, (wrongly) Excaliber. it would not support a sigle fair batten through any of its frame's notches, so I added little bits of wood and took some out with a cutting disc until they fitted. Then I realised it was twisted, so had to add a strong diagonal brace while I corrected all the notches. Fortunately, after they were all corrected the brace came out and finally I was able to add skins. I figured it looked like a Greavette racer, so have built it like that. But no thanks to the lousy drawings.
1 year ago by Westquay
I thought as the lake is still full of weed this would keep me sailing built from light ply fibre glassed inside & out then painted length 33" width 12"height 16" to top of the prop
70 amp esc
brushless motor 11" prop
I am busy with a landing craft i thought this would be another one to beat the dreaded weed 😱
1 year ago by Northumbrian
HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
Glad I could be of help.
Your ‘sinking’ reminds me of the time we used to ‘try’ and fly model
. We always took a box of matches as one or the other crashed beyond repair. Saved the trouble of taking the bits home.
1 year ago by cormorant
Mahogany in Scale
Hi Guys, I thought you might like to know that the BMFA have a national centre which is going to include a museum. Although it may be all