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    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Alternatively, pick a sensible master voltage for the boat, and use step-up/down converters to provide
    auxiliary
    voltages for other purposes? They provide efficiency in the 90% range, and power of about 5A for a couple of quid. I have been doing this to get radar dishes to rotate at precisely the speeds I want....
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    auxiliary
    motor, rudder servo, bowsprit bitts
    Back to posting again....I decided to added an
    auxiliary
    motor since I had several laying around and it will come in handy when I am tweaking the sailing setup in case I get stuck in the middle of the pond. Made a stuffing tube just like I did on my rescue tug build. Made a shaft from some 3/16" steel rod, threaded it and polished it up, works great. Photo of the aft section shows continued hull framing and upside down mount of the rudder servo. I will enclose the servo with the small pilot house as is typical on the barge. This will make maintenance and adjustment access easy. Yes, the build is wandering away from the true "Pearl" which I used the hull plans from. it will maintain the same sail plan, but I will modify some items for ease of RC use. Bowsprit will be retractable, bitts are shown in progress. The bowsprit will be made from a carbon fiber "arrow shaft". Mast will be wood and I am shaping out of maple that I have. Staring to plank the hull as well. More to come shortly, Joe
    1 year ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Furled sails powered yacht with inboard motor
    Ron, My gaff rigged cutter has a
    auxiliary
    motor and it works great. I can take some photos and get you some information motor and prop and on how I did it. What size is your Gypsy? Joe
    1 year ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Brixham trawler IBEX
    Hi again, To remind you - I'm about to start a build of Cariad - about a meter long fiberglass hull made by Chris Wynn-Brown. Selecting the
    auxiliary
    motor I'm looking at a m500 but any thoughts about the prop used. Thinking 2 blade fairly small, 25mm. Not needed for speed, just to get to shore if the wind dies. And originally
    auxiliary
    motors/props would have been small. Does this sound right? Sam
    1 year ago by sam
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make β€œimprovements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the
    auxiliary
    control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a β€œget-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Brixham trawler IBEX
    Edward, I'm going to cast a bulb which gives me some tolerance in positioning it on the keel to help with the final trim. Probably make the keel from two sheets of balsa with a central threaded rod screwed and epoxied to the bulb. But that's for a later stage, right now I want to build the shaft into the hull before fitting the deck. Are you fitting an
    auxiliary
    motor? if so what sort of motor is most suitable? Quite looking forward to starting but likely to hafe to wait until after Christmas - work intervienes Thanks Sam
    1 year ago by sam
    Forum
    Venetian Evening
    It's not so bad Neville, just vastly overcrowded in summer. Those ships operate around the islands and not in the inner canals, as do most of the Riva-esque Water Taxis, with exception of the Canal Grande. The Arsenal was built on the site of shipyard founded in 1104!! Most of it is now Museum, but on the last satellite pics I saw there was a naval
    auxiliary
    ship (oiler / freighter) in the Arsenal harbour on the north east of the main island. Oh, and did I mention the millions of pigeons who'll nick yer ice cream or cheese roll right out of yer hand?😲 Not to mention what they leave behind.😑 For what you imagine you need to take a ferry across to the Lido di Jesolo. Lovely sandy beachπŸ‘πŸ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    Sterling Yacht America
    Sterling Yacht America 51 1/2” long 8 1/2” beam 41” high. Model was built from kit has
    auxiliary
    electric power and Futaba sail wench servo. Model weighs 11 lbs and has a removable 2 lb. keel weight.
    2 years ago by Mikep
    Response
    Emma C Berry Schooner
    Very nicely done l have built two Emma C Berry’s one free sail the other r/c with
    auxiliary
    electric motor the both sail nicely. Sterling also produced the Yacht America in the same scale size as the Emma C Berry. I have that as well set up with r/c and
    auxiliary
    power. I’ve raced them against each other about equal in speed. Both have removable keels.
    2 years ago by Mikep
    Forum
    upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels
    I finally got around to upgrading my Turnigy i6 system from 6 channels to 10 channels today.😁 Happily the firmware update went like a dream and I was able to install a new 10 channel rx in my RAF Crash Tender and then reprogramme the new
    auxiliary
    channels to the functions I need. And of course a long press on the exit button saves all the settings properly.....as we all know now πŸ‘ 😁 This has freed-up the previous six channel receiver which I now need for the new boat project which is now well under way. Robbob.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Lifeboat and Davit Completed!
    With difficulty Ed, and lots of swearing in as many languages as I could remember 😑 They're made of a silvery metallic thread from the ladies dress making department! Got some funny looks (and some intriguing ones😁) while nosing around in there! They have a tendency to sag when the weather is hot, like now, they are pretty limp right now πŸ€” At the top they are knotted and gluper sued to a ring of the same stuff around the stack. The eye bolts in the deck are just made of tinned copper wire glued into the deck. The eyes were formed around the nose of a small pair of circlip pliers. When the wires sag I can tighten them (up to a point!) by tilting the eye bolts further out. The little switches are rated 240V 5A or 10A and are for main power,
    auxiliary
    power and an ON/OFF/ON for Charge/OFF/Run. Got them from Radio Rim, the predecessor to Conrad, here in Munich. They're still around - the switches I mean πŸ˜‰ At first I had them in a Ready Ammo Box on the Flak Gun Deck. But that needed a plugged connection under the removable deck. So I quickly changed that to under the engine room vent as in the pics. The box you can still see between the 20mm's. Shame about Radio ShackπŸ€”, spent ages in their store in Garden City Mall Roosevelt Field (where Charlie Lindbergh took off from), on Long island many years ago. Came home with boxes of 'Stuff' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    Sterling Emma C Berry
    Model is 49” long and with ballast keel added weighs 17 lbs. hull is covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth fiberglass cloth and painted with Krylon spray can paint. Hitec sail winch servo for main sail and standard servo for jib. Model has
    auxiliary
    6 volt electric power to compincate for my sailing ability’s and wind conditions. Sails are Mylar.
    2 years ago by Mikep
    Blog
    Emerald - ''Round the Word'' ocean racing yacht.
    Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 -
    auxiliary
    3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 -
    auxiliary
    3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for Β£10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
    2 years ago by East-RN
    Forum
    advise required
    Just to throw a little spanner in the works teejay if your thinking of adding
    auxiliary
    's to your boats later as you progress, I use the turnigy 9x radio from hobbyking now and for the money mate I can't fault the radio and the receiver's are cheap and 10 model memory . Ron
    2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
    Blog
    H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for
    auxiliary
    circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.
    2 years ago by RHBaker
    Media
    Working Radar for Many Scales
    Building a German Police launch right now and thought that the radar scanner components were a bit 'heath robinsonish', so decided to see if I could make an alternative unit. Photo 1 shows the Radar scanner parts obtained from MMB (ebay) for the princely sum of ONE POUND !!!!! plus 28p postage, and construction is of a medium soft resin that isn't prone to breaking or splitting when shaped or drilled, and a short length of 2mm brass rod becomes the drive shaft. This particular unit has a 44mm sweep bar but there are many other sizes available Photo 2 shows the drive motor which operates on voltages between 1.5 and 6v, ideal for the control driver which is the next item. Available from saih.tan on Ebay for under 7 pounds, and if the motor is mounted on a removable bracket as I have done, this unit can be used in several models without the need for major 'surgery', the motor and radar shaft being connected with a short piece of rubber tubing Photo 3 shows the receiver driven radar motor speed control which operates from an
    auxiliary
    receiver channel and takes the motor voltage from the main receiver supply, thus obviating the need for a separate supply and switch. This unit is available from www.mr-rcworld.co.uk and costs a staggering 14.50 post free sheesh ! I must add here that I am in NO way connected to any of the suppliers mentioned here, but just though some other modellers may be interested in 'home brew' accessories and suchlike.
    2 years ago by bilzin
    Blog
    MV TEAKWOOD
    As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment. One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them. This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks. The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads. An
    auxiliary
    bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place. Readers might question my choice of β€œO” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The β€œO” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program. The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. it is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes. The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities. The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.
    2 years ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Layout and Limitations (con)
    I have just looked at mine and attach a photo. I suggest you mark with red tape the same connector on each exciter in the same way mine is marked. if neither work yours are wired differently so reverse the wires and mark with a dot of red paint. The circuit board is integrated with the rx so you will need to buy electronic switcher units for each
    auxiliary
    function. Have you decided what radio you intend to use? ideally you need a spare channel for each
    auxiliary
    , but there are other options that work with lesser channels. Choose the radio and we can advise on the switcher units.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    pictures
    Hi,I decided to use an
    auxiliary
    engine on my barge models too, (bargemen on the real barges called it "iron topsail"). it's an advantage when the wind stops blowing - and I do not have to swim for the model in cold water ... Tom
    3 years ago by tomarack
    Forum
    FRESH BATTERY RUNNING TIME
    Hi Les, SorryπŸ€” but this is another "How long is a piece of string?" question. It's a simple equation to work out the theoretical endurance, but no input = no output! Inputs required are- Battery type and nominal capacity; mAh as printed on the battery pack, Current drawn by all the electrics connected to it: RX, servos, sail winches etc,
    auxiliary
    motor if fitted. I'll leave that bit to the sailing buffs here. I have zilch yachting experience. Re: depletion: Battery should not be left connected when not in use! You should have an ON/OFF switch in the boat to disconnect it. If not in use for longer periods it should be removed from the boat and periodically charged, only to 50% capacity for a LiPo when stored. stored NiCads and NiMh should be periodically cycled; that means discharging to the safe minimum and then recharging SLOWLY. Good chargers have automatic programs for this. Depletion, even when not connected to anything, depends on the battery type. A NiCad looses approx. 1% per month, NiMh and LiPos considerably less but still some depending on the internal resistance of the pack. Better quality (higher price) should mean lower internal resistance and less/slower natural depletion. Avoid cheapo 'no names'. A pic of the battery would be more use than one of the RXπŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    JOINING BATTERY & RECEIVER CABLE
    Hi Les, then I assume that you need something like this harness with JR/Hitec male & female plug/socket. This one also has a third plug for connecting the battery to a charger when the switch is in the off position. DON'T use this feature if you are using a LiPo battery!! There are several other versions without this third plug available here http://www.componentshop.co.uk/futaba-charging-switch-harness.html I guess the RX battery is a fairly small NiMH and also has the JR type plug. BTW: something to check before switching on- Does your speed controller have a BEC circuit? if so it supplies the RX as well so you don't need an RX battery at all. Or doesn't your yacht have any
    auxiliary
    motor and ESC? Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎 Looking forward to the video of the insulting tape πŸ˜πŸ˜‰ or is that what I keep seeing on the news with Mr T??
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Place
    2017 Regatta Report
    Hi Dave, harsh? it just doesn't work! All you get is the Adobe logo! The site actually says "Upload photos / files"! pdf is a file, and yes you are correct - PORTABLE. QED. Several of us have fallen into this trap. it would have been so much easier for me to have given Marky the manual for the RC set I suggested to him as a rookie. Re THE PICS; I was also wondering about it being a liberty ship cos it's not quite right for an
    auxiliary
    dry goods supply ship or oiler. After a period of monsoon rain we now have around 30Β°, get a lot done outside until evening, then the infamous Bavarian thunderstorms start! πŸ€” Just had another one 😑 I used to tell people in the office "I don't want to hear any more crap about English weather! While we have floods my mother has a garden hose ban and brown lawn"! (Ich will kein Scheiß mehr ΓΌber Englisches Wetter hΓΆren! WΓ€hrend wir Überflutungen haben hat meine Mutter Gartenschlauchverbot und braune rasen!) 😭 Glue 'N Glaze and other goodies arrived today 😊 Busy days ahead πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    battery charging
    Hi Roy, Like I already said in similar threads; pay a bit more for major producers, like Panasonic as you mentioned, and you are more likely to get what you paid for. No names are always a gamble. May be a super start-up, may be a 'let's cash in band wagon jumper! Whoever the 'supplier' is a relatively small number of manufactures are behind them. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice! Personally, for the bigger, more expensive anyway, drive batteries I go for a supplier with reputation and known sources and reliable recourse without questions if you are not satisfied. For the little, cheaper, accus. for my Plastic Magic and
    auxiliary
    functions I am more inclined to experiment, log the results (manually!) and adjust future purchases accordingly. Regarding your super duper data logger; how has really it helped you? I used them often in my professional life, mostly as chief of the Rank Telecomm personal radio test department in the 70s and 80s, but now I don't need to sit in front of the PC analysing such data for hours. Time I could better spend building, sailing or solving other more interesting problems. Without appropriate analysis algorithms data loggers are useless. I have a thermocouple add-on for my multimeter which tells me if a particular cell is overheating compared to the rest. (The finger tip test usually agrees with the thermocouple!) This gives me a more useful indication than lots of abstruse graphs which you then have to interpret correctly. The money this cost you might have been better invested in a better charger as Dave M has already advised. I repeat what I said in the thread Dave mentioned: if I note that an accu. has a weak cell I degrade it to non-essential functions, nothing needed to bring the boat home! Each to his own; if you want to spend your time pondering over dubious statistics carry on and good luck! Personally I think Life's too short to waste on such things! If it woiks, don't fix it. if it don't woik fix or replace it, but don't waste time on bait digging when you could be fishing! Forgive me if I'm insulting your intelligence, for all I know you may also have 40 years professional experience in electronics. Let go! Cheers Doug 😎
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Tank Steering
    Hi All The Turnigy/Flysky iA6 are amazingly good value systems but did you know that they can be upgraded to full 10 channel operation! You will need to buy a new 10 channel RX for about Β£15: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-ia10b-receiver-10ch-2-4g-afhds-2a-telemetry-receiver-w-ppm-sbus.html And a cable to go from your computer USB port to the connector on the back of the TX for less than Β£3: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-king-2-4ghz-6ch-tx-usb-cable.html And then the firmware update from this site: https://github.com/benb0jangles/FlySky-i6-Mod- There are also some YouTube videos to guide you through the upgrade process. This is one of a number of them on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iMQMh_kgRY&t=187s I have bought the bits but not got round to doing the upgrade yet but apparently it is a very popular mod that allows you to assign a separate
    auxiliary
    channel to each of the switches and knobs. Robbob.
    3 years ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Yacht) Experimemtal
    Ebay Purchase. Originally a test tank model. Pumped water ballast no rudder or keel. Now fitted with lead fin ballast plus 2 7ah gel cells. and
    auxiliary
    motor. Sailing rig "A" class . 72in long 32 in beam .Hull strip wood deck fibre board. Sail winch and heavy duty rudder servo fitted. Design guess work !! Note picture of setting up rudder. 3 years work. (5/10)
    3 years ago by tysonyoung
    Blog
    Shelduck
    Continuing on - Grease up the prop shaft. Finalise the rigging. Another Radio check, with
    auxiliary
    motor, then disaster, Lost the hatch top, searched for 1 and 1/2 hours, no where to be found, Out came the saw and we has another cutting session and added some veneer, all was well.
    3 years ago by muddy
    Media
    Koh-i-Noor
    Purchased on well known auction site. Boat very dusty/dirty but sound. it is from a Robbe kit that was around about 10 years ago and has timber decking, built-in
    auxiliary
    motor, navigation lights, etc. A deep clean followed by a re-paint of the superstructure, rub the decking down and varnish, followed by a complete rub down and re-paint of the hull brought her back to a fine yacht. She is about 40 inches in length and sails beautifully and has great presence on the water.
    3 years ago by ads90
    Media
    Gusty Cat (ex Lady Daphne)
    I like Douglas Adams books. ..(and Terry Pratchett too) But I was most attracted to Gusty Cat ... So.. Model of thames barge , build according to modified plans of sb Lady Daphne in scale 1:28 (length cca 1 meter ). it will be again a model with an
    auxiliary
    motor, staysail class. I am currently grinding the laminate hull with several layers of putty. It is an ungrateful job.
    3 years ago by tomarack
    Forum
    RSS Sovereignty P 72
    I spent 2 hours of solid surfing and found one other picture (which was of lousy quality and therefore no use). I hate to be beaten by things like this. One limiting factor is that the independence class ships are all being replaced with new Literal variety of ships. RSS independence has already been replaced by a new RSS independence Literal class of ship. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I have sent a mail to a friend of mine who lives in Singapore and is a Royal Fleet
    auxiliary
    officer, to ask if he can find any info. I'll let you know when I hear from him. Again, apologies, Dave W
    3 years ago by rolfman2000
    Forum
    Rare Comet model ''Sloop Gypsy''
    Hi Granpa! I think he means the
    auxiliary
    motor, which most full size yachts have in case they get becalmed, or the skipper isn't skilled enough to sail into harbour πŸ˜‰ Cheers 😎Doug
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Other) Capricorn
    Capricorn is model of Thames sailing barge with
    auxiliary
    electric motor. (ESC: HK) (5/10)
    3 years ago by tomarack
    Response
    Ketch Irene
    Hi Hammer Your build looks as if going to be really interesting, Are you building it from Scratch? Will it be RC or will it be Static display? if RC will you be putting an
    auxiliary
    motor as in the real one.
    3 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Top Sail
    You should have some fun with her. I noticed on an earlier photo that she has an
    auxiliary
    motto which should help if you get becalmed. Edward
    4 years ago by cenbeth
    Response
    Aquacraft Atlantic tug boat
    I made an
    auxiliary
    cabin on the sovrastructure that contains circuits and point the search light toward the crane action space I posted some pics before
    4 years ago by saintsalvio
    Forum
    Propeller for single shaft boat
    Hello all, Like most question they seem daft at the time but I wanted to check, my next ship is going to be an
    auxiliary
    cruiser with a single shaft and prop, are there any center drive prop if that makes sense? Or are all propellers either left or right bias? Thank you for any responses Regards Dave
    4 years ago by Pav403
    Forum
    please help
    HI Grace, are we saying the motor works fine, through the esc? if so, plug the esc into the channel that is currently the rudder, using the rudder stick, the motor should run, that eliminates the servo, however, a boat rudder, which is right stick left/right movement is marked up on your rx as "aerlion" I have a feeling you have plugged into the wrong channels. The rx is marked up to suit rc planes, so, assuming the tx is mode 2 throttle on left, the throttle is correct, the channel marked Aerlion (AIL) is your rudder (right stick moving right/left), on rc planes/helis the rudder channel is on the left stick moving left /right! That leaves elevator on your rx, that is right stick up/down, then channel 5 is an
    auxiliary
    channel. I use all the channels on some of my boats, My Orca (Jaws boat) uses throttle, rudder, sound unit, lights, smoke unit! πŸ˜€ Busy sticks!
    6 years ago by pmdevlin
    Media
    AMELIE ROSE
    My little Hungry Sailor aboard AMELIE ROSE OF POOLE, Scale model of a Scilly isle pilot cutter from the ITV series THE HUNGRY SAILORS. She is scratch built 3/4 to 1 ft. The hull is fibre glass on balsa plank with OpepI Oak deck, shes powered by a 700
    auxiliary
    motor and Lipo battery, can be seen at Boundery Water Park.
    7 years ago by THECAPT2012
    Media
    The Three Brothers of Rye - fishing smack
    Brian Clewes has now taken his new scratch built boat on its maiden voyage. The day was fine, if cold, but the wind was just right for the event. The
    auxiliary
    motor was used to keep the vessel moving when the wind dropped but she did sail with the little wind present and responded well to the helm. This is Brian's third large scratch built yacht, he is really becoming quite an expert. Also makes his own sails and fittings.
    8 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Which Radio Control System?
    HI cenbeth Welcome to the site. The latest radio gear is 2.4Ghz. Noted for its short stubby aerial and short receiver aerial. Requires no crystals so great for using at busy sites. No good for your sub though as the radio frequency will not penetrate beneath the waves. 😰 40Mhz is available for all surface models (and subs) so may be a better choice than 27Mhz not least because there are 34 frequency slots available. πŸ‘ Most sets are a basic two channel but you can buy mutI channel for more money. I suspect your servos may not have the current plugs in use so you may need to buy a set with servos - so called combI sets have no servos, but servos are readily available from model shops and the web. You have not mentioned a speed controller so you will need one for your motor(s). Actual capacity will depend on the motor(s) installed. I have a Cariad and also use an
    auxiliary
    motor with ESC, plus two sail winches and a rudder servo, so will actually use a 4 channel Futaba T6EX 2.4Ghz set. With a sail winch you need to be able to adjust the throw and this set has adjustable (electronic) stick settings. If you can afford to buy two sets I would go for 2.4Ghz for your three surface craft and stick with the 27Mhz or buy a 40Mhz set for the sub. You will find plenty of advice on this site regarding motors, ESC and batteries and a quick look at "Power setups" wil give you an insite. Also our "Boat Building Blogs" may help you refresh your memory on techniques old and new. I hope this answers some of your questions but if there is anything else you need to know please keep asking. There will be many who are or were in your position and we all like to share our knowledge and experiences πŸ˜€
    8 years ago by Dave M


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