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    Response
    Re: 36'' Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.
    "everything has been converted to electric long ago" Know what you mean John. I've still got a 5ltr canister of pepped up glow fuel kicking about in the cellar. Probably degenerated into uselessness by now๐Ÿค” Maybe I'll stick in the car or use it to start the barby๐Ÿ˜Š Re Premium line- Belfast wasn't so bad, but had the same crappy plastic props held on with grub screws. So she's getting threaded shafts and brass props from Raboesch ๐Ÿ˜‰ On Graf Spee though I noticed a lot of resin casting faults, evidence of air bubbles and smudged detail, as well as over / under-spray in the painting and lifting of the wooden decks. Had to inject liquid CA glue round the edges to stop it peeling โ˜น๏ธ๐Ÿ˜  Best thing on both ships were the faultless hulls with double skinning!๐Ÿ˜‰ One thing surprised me with Belfast though- the recommended SLA
    batteries
    don't fit! I couldn't get them in any which way ๐Ÿค” Not to worry, they go in my 1:72 destroyer with ease ๐Ÿ˜Š BTW I prefer lapsang souchong ๐Ÿ˜‹
    2 days ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build P
    Trial fitting all the plumbing for the heat exchanger to make sure coamings will still fit. Small pump behind port motor is the circulation pump and the other is the raw water pump. Also fitted the ESCs and made the battery holders. would have liked the
    batteries
    and pumps nearer the stern, but not enough room under the floors. May have to put a few sinkers in the stern to get the WL correct. That can come at the end once everything else is done, (paint etc) Rudder system is also temporarily hooked up and works fine. Will remove and test water system shortly. Using 6mm silicone hose for the raw water pump for better flow. As can be seen, everything tucks away quite nicely out of sight, (was sort of like death by a thousand cuts,- fitted by a thousand slots!) some pretty close fits here and there. could have done without the heat exchanger but I don't do things the easy way. Got to try fitting a smoke machine in somewhere so I can have smoke coming out the exhausts with the water (more tubes, more bits!) and a sound unit! Might be pushing it, but I managed to fit twin units on the HSL and that's a lot narrower. Might be a rack system yet, plenty of room upwards in the cabin. Don't really want to put anything in the wheel house, just wheel, instruments etc.
    2 days ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    quite a while since last update
    it been quite a while since the last update, holidays, work, sun shine etc all got in the way we have done some amount of work on the model in past few months mostly around the running gear and some electrics Made up a platform on which all of the main electric components will sit on, these include the 2
    batteries
    (6 volt for the steam and lighting) 7.2v for the motor. also on the platform will be the smoke/steam generator, motor, ESC, receiver and at the back the Servo for the rudder. platform made out of MDF and sealed up and then re-enforced with wood strips before fixing the platform inside the huil (permanent fixing) did a "Bath" test to add ballast to the hull as you would imagine that it rides high without anything expect for the platform/
    batteries
    and paddles. used Car wheel weights as ballast as you can go done to the nearest gram with those as well as stick on on where needed. once ballasted (not fully as need to put superstructure and deck fittings on before the final a ballast glues (epoxy) the platform, into place (with the ballast under it) we can still put extra to the sides and bow/stern worked out where the Servo is going to go, fitted that to the rear of the platform and used 2 rods to goto the rudder arm added 3 switches to a small shelf on the platform, these will be the main ESC/Motor Power switch, one switch for the steam and 1 for the lights. Also ensured we can get to the 2 battery leads fore charging Added the Navigation lights (and wiring) to the wheel boxes as well as wiring up the small set of lights we have in the engine cover. as we are looking at a removable deck (so the whole thing comes off rather then just sections of the deck)on it if we need to get to the stuff like battery/motor etc we can. looking for a solution pointed me to look at the metal clips that are used to hold car speakers into place in car doors etc, basically a slide on spring clip with a hole one side and a grooved hole the other to screw into. drilled the hole in the deck where needed (8 holes in the main deck and 2 in the stern for the rudder area.) drilled holes in the GRP platform on which the deck rests, clipped the metal clips to the hull/desk rest, i have glued some small metal washers to the top of the deck to protect it then we can basically screw the deck to the hull (and remove) without damaging the deck or hull and we are screwing into metal clips and and pulling the deck to the metal clips next thing to do is look at fixing the wheel boxes to the deck, the a way of fixing (but being ale to remove) the house house if needed. then lights and wiring of as we are looking at getting lights to the wheel house as well as a few other places at the same time putting other the deck fittings (Mast, work/life boats) etc once all that done a final ballast, tighten all of the various bolts/screens, charge battery and test sailing (could take a while as working on this slowly)
    5 days ago by barryskeates
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi all, having got closer to getting my gear all up and running than I have in many a year, I read that the DX5e (my Tx which Doug kindly mended) can have a dodgy slide switch for on/off and the
    batteries
    don't make good contact in the back. Now I found that only one set of my rechargeable Nimhs will even fit the battery tray. How the hell can they have got it that wrong? Push the last cell in and the others pop out. If you force it, it can cause a brownout as the Tx. stops working. Would it make sense to replace the slide switch and make the
    batteries
    into a pack which plugs into something soldered into the insides. Someone suggested that rechargeables are no good anyway as they're lower voltage than dry cells! What to do? I am about to use this in an aeroplane! Martin
    12 days ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Not surprised Michael. Like I said I only bought it cos I have a large collection of
    batteries
    of all sorts of types and sizes and I wanted to be able to take better care of them. The Polaron stores parameters for the various types and has a USB data port to export the results to the PC. Still learning how to use that to create a Battery Data Log ๐Ÿ˜‰ You should be able to find one of the little Robbe or Graupner jobs on the Fleabay, or there's always Turnigy & C. Happy charging, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    8 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Help needed please, Iโ€™m not an electrics man I purchased this charger and two battery packs about 6 months ago and Itโ€™s been in the box ever since. And I am now getting round to sorting the electrics on my crash tender. however reading the forum article on โ€œ
    batteries
    in a DX5eโ€ I am now concerned that the
    batteries
    are in trouble. I Have the manual but to honest I canโ€™t make any sense of the particular situation I have eg I have checked the output voltage on each battery not under any load and they both read 9.5v. What do I do next โ€“ discharge - charge โ€“ for how long etc Thanksโšก
    10 days ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Michael, I had to make up adaptor leads as well for my bigger NiMhs; one for Tamiya and one for XT60s. The third pin on the socket has no connection. The manufacturer of these gizmos seems to assume that they will only be used for RX
    batteries
    !๐Ÿค” "These
    batteries
    will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together? " If you mean all connected in parallel - I'm afraid not๐Ÿค” The charger controller would get awfully confused! As it has to be able to read the individual pack voltages in order to control the process and know when to stop discharging and start charging. To cycle both
    batteries
    simultaneously you need a two port charger. Something like the one in attached pic. I also recently acquired a Graupner Polaron EX two port charger. https://www.graupner.com/Polaron-EX-charger-red/S2011.R/ More expensive (a lot!) but it can also do a lot more for your battery management. You can programme and store several different types and capacities of
    batteries
    ; SLA, NiMh, LiPo, LiFe etc and set all necessary parameters; number of cycles, discharge current, charge current, stop criteria, timer etc. A selectable tabular or graphic display shows you how the cycle is progressing and the status of the battery. It will also tell you the internal resistance of the battery to give you an idea of it's quality and suitability for high current applications๐Ÿ˜‰ Does LiPos and SLAs as well. I just bought the two port DC only version without mains input cos I already had a 13.8V 17A supply kicking about doin' nowt! You can also hang the charger on a 12V SLa or car battery. As I have a considerable number of LiPos and NiMhs for various purposes, and having had sad and costly experiences in the past with failed
    batteries
    , I considered it a reasonable investment to get the most out of my
    batteries
    ! Cheers, Doug
    9 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Doug thanks for that most useful. I have the capacity meter but no lead from battery to meter , I have the servo plugs and xt60 plugs/sockets plus crimping tool & wire. I am capable of producing the lead so that's OK, BUT I notice that the NiMh socket on the meter has tree pins but the lead I need to make has only 2 wires + & -. looking at your pics I can see the + is to the centre pin and - to an outside pin, I made the lead up and it works OK giving reading on both
    batteries
    (see pic) so what next - discharge/charge 3 times? These
    batteries
    will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together?
    9 days ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Re: Graupner Optimist 1978
    It's very relaxing Martin, if you are not in a powerboat mood, just sit in your chair and know that the only battery you have to worry about just has to power a couple of servos,(winch and rudder) no motors or drive shafts or ESCs to worry about, and you can pretty much stay out there all day if you have good TX
    batteries
    , and your rec is powered by a UBEC from your main battery. I've sailed full sized small boats (biggest was an 18ft 'A' class cat ) since I was 12yrs old (54yrs) so it's just a miniature extension of that. I still have 2 small yachts (12ft and 15ft) and a 12ft dinghy with a 15hp motor for fishing, all rebuilt (the dinghy and 12 footer I got for free) but I'm finding that every time I go out now I come back covered in bruises, (clumsy old man syndrome) Here's a short video of a bit of my last 22km run in the dinghy to an island just up the coast from where I live. I took advantage of a brilliant day! (we don't get them that calm too often) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKSBjMllKQg John B
    9 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Well, I took the dry cells to the club and had to prove to them that rechargeables do NOT fit a DX5e, but Duracell dry cells did. They were all astonished having called me a Luddite for not having rechargeables, even though I've been around rechargeable AAs for ages as my digital workshop radio uses them, but even that struggles to accommodate just 2 of my many sets, the others being far too large to fit comfortably., Several flyers brought me their
    batteries
    and none would fit my Tx. Unfortunately there is no socket to plug a made up pack in either. So, Duracells it is. Doug, I still had the post-it note on the Tx. from you and one wag there said, "Oh, Doug in Munich? We were at different schools together!" Took the others quite a while to twig what he'd actually said! Martin
    9 days ago by Westquay
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Ah, well - I only came in half-way through the conversation, when the issue was boat plan access. Some comments on your original post: 1 - You want reliability in a remote control link. So any issue that is actually causing a reliability problem should be addressed. 2 - People may comment that some designs or components are unreliable. This may or may not be true for your case. It's worth checking anything that someone suggests may be unreliable, but not changing it unless you have good evidence that it is. 3 - People have complained about the use of individual
    batteries
    (rechargeable or not) in a radio control, on the grounds that each individual battery clip connection is a source of possible failure. Rather depends on how clean you keep them, and how springy they are... 4 - people often discuss rechargeable vs dry-cell issues. There are many possible variations and considerations, so everyone can support their own preference. Initial nominal voltage is not really an issue, as
    batteries
    provide a range of voltages as they run through their discharge cycle. More important is the battery 'life', which is something you need to find out for your own particular system/battery/usage mix. 5 - One good thing about dry
    batteries
    is that you can buy fresh ones at short notice, so you can use them immediately. One good thing about rechargeables is that they (usually) have more amp-hours and a flatter discharge curve. But you have to care for them a bit, and make sure they are charged before use... see the reference below. I tend to think that for occasional use, and use at short notice, dry
    batteries
    are useful. But for regular continual use rechargables win out. Incidentally, there is a newish battery design (Sony Eneloop and Vapex Instant) which offers very low self-discharge. I've tried them and it's true. You can charge them up, put them away and use them a year later. As good as dry
    batteries
    . But, of course, they cost... https://www.powerstream.com/AA-tests.htm
    9 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    I think this post has lost its point. Gone from model boats and
    batteries
    via model shops to the wherefore and why of social media!
    9 days ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Mike, 1. You don't need that adapter, aka Balancer Board. Primarily for LiPo
    batteries
    so that the charger can measure individual cell voltages and adjust them accordingly so that they are all the same +/- 100mV or so. So called balancing. Unless you have a rare breed of NiMh with a balancer cable attached you don't need this. 2. 9.5V for an 8 cell NiMh (nominal 9.6) sounds good for new
    batteries
    . Nevertheless, I recommend you get a capacity meter, see pic lower battery is a new 4.8V NiMh, upper a LiPo, which will tell you the 'true' state of the battery. For a new, unused NiMh I would expect a capacity of around 40%. Consensus says new NiMh packs should be cycled 3 or 4 times through a discharge / charge cycle to condition them for use and minimise the dreaded 'Memory Effect'. Set the discharge current to no more than 1Amp, charge current 0.5A (500mA) and charge for 11 hours for your 5000mAh packs. The charger should take care or the timing. It should also gradually reduce the charge current as the battery approaches full charge. The charger should detect Full Charge by a process known as Delta Peak; when fully charged the battery reaches a Peak voltage. If you continue charging the battery becomes 'overcharged' and the voltage dips slightly, the Delta in the Peak voltage๐Ÿ˜‰. A good charger should detect this and switch off. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    10 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi Doug, had the slide sw problem with my new 9XR and replaced it with a German made sw (I ordered a few for spares as well.) It also had a dodgey throttle pot which I replaced as well and no further probs. Same problem at an earlier time with my Acoms FM TX and replaced that with a toggle sw . They use the slide switches obviously for safety reasons so you won't get neck straps etc caught and accidently turn off the TX (same as with external power switches on planes, which should be set with ON towards the tail, so as when you are releasing the plane the switch won't be knocked to OFF. Don't know why they don't just recess a good toggle switch,- much more positive connection. I had a quick look at DX TXs and a number of people have converted them to LiPos and have said that there is an option in the set up programme in DX6 on, to change the power input to LiPo. Have you heard of that ? not that I'm ever going to own a DX as I have enough TXs but it sounded interesting. Someone mentioned they don't like over 6.4v and start doing strange things. I never bought one due to the number of planes that were lost to 'brown-outs in the earlier ones,- you couldn't give them away here!. Now for something entirely different- interesting item on JRs demise and attempted recovery of face .http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/jr-radio-spektrum-radios-116/11645243-jr-products-history-date.html I've used LiFe 3s 1800ma
    batteries
    in my old FM Futaba Conquest 5ch TXs plus my 9X (Rhino 1500ma) and 9XR(with JR module) and they have been fantastic. While a bit down on voltage I have no probs flying to max LOS and the voltage hardly changes. I've had the 3 Zippys plus the Rhino 1500ma (in the 9X) since 2010 and they are still going strong. If you can fit them in a TX and it will function on a slightly lesser voltage I would recommend fitting them (or whatever LiFe will fit space- and voltage wise. ) No More black wire form NiCads either!. I also have a LiPo TX pack for my Futaba 6ex which I've yet to use, (original NiCad still ok after 9yrs, -my original Futaba 'brown box'TXs LiPos lasted 15 yrs!- Jap quality.) Mind you, had to replace the wiring up to the switch. I use NiMH
    batteries
    in my 2 HK 6 DF TXs and 6x with no range problems at all and both are made for std AA
    batteries
    . Sounds like the DX is very voltage specific but there must be something better that can be fitted. (once had a big 9.8v car NiCad clamped to the outside back cover of my old Futaba. BTW, I notice you're holding that fish very close to the camera ???!!
    11 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi Martin, 37% residual charge for a LiPo is fine ๐Ÿ‘ I use 30% as a bottom limit. "I didn't know about the charge rate so left it at 0.2A. It's a 2200 3S" 200mA is always a good safe starting point.๐Ÿ‘ Yep, you're dead right ๐Ÿ‘ 11 hours charge is correct, assuming that the battery was dead flat at the start. Which it obviously wasn't (37% charge left). But the charger should recognise that and adjust the time accordingly. 500mA is also safe, but NEVER more than 1A. You may see 'Fast charge' LiPos advertised as 10C, 20C or even more. Meaning charging at 10 or 20 times the capacity in AH as Amps. So for your battery that would mean a charge current of 22 or 44A ๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ’ฅ At the very least the battery would get very hot, may 'puff out', which drastically shortens it's useful life, or at worst cause it to explode๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ Similarly advertised discharge rates I've seen of up to 50C are nonsense. Consider a 5000mAH battery = 5Ah. I.e. it can provide 5A for one hour (theoretically 'in this the most perfect of all possible worlds'๐Ÿ˜) A discharge rate of 50C would mean 50*5 = 250A๐Ÿ˜ฎ The theoretical discharge time (before the battery departs for Valhalla) would be 5/250 hours. = 72 seconds. After that buy a new batteryโ˜น๏ธ, and model if it burst into flames.โ˜น๏ธ So where does that getcha? Thus it becomes obvious that such figures are nothing more than marketing gimmicks. Buyer beware! The NiMHs are a bit more critical as far as maintenance is concerned. As I'm sure I mentioned before, they have a self-discharge rate of around 1% per day. So if you leave an NiMH battery alone for 3 months it has very likely joined the Dodos. At the very least it will never be able to take a full charge again, due to irreversible chemical changes. So called 'Deep discharge'. Here endeth the epistle to the Wisbech Luddites for tonight ๐Ÿ˜ BTW: thought you were going to print all this out the last time we discussed it, as reminder for the winter maintenance? Considering the prices of
    batteries
    it's worth a little effort to keep 'em happy. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Thinks! This is all stuff I was considering adding to the 'How Tos' on
    batteries
    , when I can get A Round Tuit! BTW: apropos capacity! Look for
    batteries
    which are marked with an IEC standard against which the quoted capacity has been measured. Otherwise it's a bit of a Pig in Poke business. Don't just buy the cheapest on offer, you'll most likely be disappointed. Go for the lowest offer available for a well known manufacturer who also provides specs and the standards adhered to. I know almost all
    batteries
    seem to be made in China these days. But many are also made there for well known western brand names to strict specifications. Cheapo 'No Names'? Who knows?
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Tornado ESC and Lipo's
    I have been given a new Tornado 50 amp Marine ESC and although it says on it for use with nicad or NIMH
    batteries
    , I'm told that it can be used with a 2s lipo. Is this correct, as I prefer to be safe than sorry? Thanks in advance๐Ÿ™„
    12 days ago by rossiter
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    "Straighten up and fly right, by Sammy Davis Junior, the best entertainer the world has ever seen" I almost agree Martin๐Ÿ‘ But SDJ didn't write it. Nat King Cole and Irving Mills did in 1943 I think. But Sammy did a good cover on his 1965 'Nat King Cole Songbook album. I like the version (Major!) Glenn Miller arranged for the Big Band and played with his Army Air Corps Band in London during the war. Somewhere I've still got copies of 'The Secret Recordings' made during those concerts which were broadcast to the troops after D-Day and collated by the late great Alan Dell. Great stuff. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW I hope that during the winter you diligently checked and charged all your
    batteries
    , Lipo or especially NiMH??? As we discussed back then๐Ÿ˜‰
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi Martin, Save your money, time and effort! Just like my DX6 your TX needs 6V from Alkaline
    batteries
    . To get 6V from NiMH you'll need 5 cells, which you haven't got a cat in hells chance of squishing in. A fully charged 4 cell pack may show up to around 5.6V OFF LOAD. So you start around half a volt short in the first place. Shortly after a load is applied the cell voltages will drop to their nominal 1.2V. Giving 4.8V for the TX. This is roughly the voltage of 4 nearly flat alkaline cells. 2000mAH cells have been recommended. Good quality Alkaline cells made to the IEC standard, such as Varta or Duracell, have a capacity of around 2500mAH. Make sure you get the Heavy Duty version, i.e. for cameras. These will last for ages, unless you forget to turn it off ๐Ÿ˜‰ When I tested your TX the switch was perfectly OK and I don't think you can get a toggle switch in without major surgery anyway. I'm not fan of slide switches either, they are always the first thing I have to replace in Gisela's garden lights and fountain pumps etc, usually due to corrosion. But considering the low usage, without getting wet (unless you fall in the pond with it๐Ÿ˜ฎ), it will have in your TX it shouldn't be a problem. The reason your rechargeables kept popping out is that many of them are a fraction larger than the alkalines. I've had this problem with several devices. I use alkaline in my DX6 and my Turnigy clone. No problems. The only TX I use NiMH in is an old Graupner MC-10, 40Megs for my submarines. But it was designed for use with a 9.6V pack in the first place and has a charging socket. Does your DX5E have a charging socket? No! Neither does my DX6. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Check on Hobby king, they may have a low discharge LiPo pack or a LiFe pack specially made to go straight in (might have to remove the springs to fit it). Slightly lower voltage but they will keep a steady voltage in the safe range for months of use (depending on use) They leave individual cells for dead. If the switch gives the slightest hint of a glitch change it for the best quality one you can find, (ie , if you ever have to switch the radio on-off-on a couple of times to get it going, change the switch!) You might investigate using a 1700 Mah LiFe 6.6v receiver pack with a UBEC set to 5v (the type with voltage jumper plugs) if you could fit it in. Had a quick look and you don't have a lot of choice. Perhaps you could buy 4 NiMh solder tab 2000 mAh
    batteries
    and make your own pack to fit (you'll need the correct charger)
    12 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Tornado ESC and Lipo's
    Volts are volts. As are amps. So long as you stay within the specified power/volt rating for the ESC, it will work if the power comes from zinc-carbon
    batteries
    , Lipos, a lead-acid accumulator or a power supply running off the mains. Lipos are max 4.2v per cell, so I guess that ESC has a rating of 12V. 2s would be 8.4v...
    12 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Directory
    Indecision
    This boat was recently purchased on-line from the grandson of the 1:1 boat in the photos. He built the boat from old photos and his memory. This is truly a "pond yacht" as the is no access to below deck for any radio control equipment. The plan is to keep the boat as shown but to up up grade the deck hardware and aft deck details. It is powered by a small electric motor running on one "C" cell battery. Since the first posting testing has shown the single "C" cell didn't have enough power to turn the prop while in the water. Experiments with other
    batteries
    has shown a combination of two 3.7v Li-po
    batteries
    in parallel should give up to one hour run time.
    2 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build H
    Finished sanding the hull after the second coat of resin with 60 grit then 220 wet and dry (used wet) and now hull is matted ready for painting. Have made the chine spray rails and top rubbing strakes and radiused one side of each, - was going to fit them but forgot the 1.5mm deck yet to attach so will wait till I glue the deck on. I can do the chine rails without a problem. Cut out the 1.5mm marine ply deck for a rough fit and added some 5x5 balsa frame top and longeron pieces to help give more deck gluing area. This boat has that much room inside I'll have no probs getting all the gear in, unlike the HSL which ended up getting a bit cramped (mind you 36" with twin everything, 4
    batteries
    and a pump there's little wonder,- wanted to fit a smoker that worked through the exhausts with the water but ran out of space). I'm going to try this out on this boat.
    26 days ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    New drive Train and Oiler
    Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose๐Ÿ˜ก Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway๐Ÿ˜Š You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.๐Ÿ˜‰ To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire ๐Ÿ˜ก I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crรจme Brรปlรฉe!! So do I, delicious ๐Ÿ˜œ๐Ÿ˜‰ The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid
    batteries
    . The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? ๐Ÿ˜ Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: The Battery Box & Power Switch
    Hi jbkiwi. I've standardised on XT60 connectors on all my models,
    batteries
    and chargers for maximum flexibility and interchangability, also there's a wide range of mounting options and accessories for them from HobbyKing. The MT60 & MT30 motor connectors are great and there's also the XT30 and XT90 range for smaller and larger current demands too. The
    batteries
    are a snug but not tight fit in the battery box and I've not experienced any LiPo battery swelling problems (yet)๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿคž
    26 days ago by robbob
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    Thanks for the information, will read your blog i think i found a method to line up the prop shaft with the motor. Getting the right angle. Measures the motor shaft then prop shaft tube. Got the difference 1.550 in, then measurer the motor dia. Took the difference and came up with .620, so I put a piece of .625in wood 6-inch-long, on the tube and put a ruler (scale) on top of that. Put the motor in line with the rule and it all linen up, so I got the angle right, and made adjustment to the motor mount, shimmed it till it was right. Then measure that and make a piece to fit. The motor helped with the magnets in side holding on to the ruler. I have tried several way to get this angle and measuring didnโ€™t work of me, or just a piece of tubing over the shaft,,, just not getting the right angle. Maybe this will help someone in setting up there motors. Now Iโ€™m going to finish up the placement of the
    batteries
    fuse, power disturbing boards, ESC and wire everything up and see if it WORKโ€™Sโ€ฆ
    28 days ago by samc
    Response
    Re: The Battery Box & Power Switch
    Nice battery box idea. Just a thought though, the Deans type connectors are a lot smaller than the XT60s (50%) an a lot easier to get apart in a confined space (especially in emergencies) I had to do a one side fixed method in one of my planes due to lack of room using XT60s, as there was no way to grip and separate both. There is a tool available to separate them apparently, (I was thinking of modding a pair of circlip pliers) XT 60s are more for high amp use (eg 30A plus), also the Deans are brown which would not clash with your woodwork, should you need to leave one exposed (although I can't imagine you leaving the battery box lidless ! PS don't have the battery box too tight as sometimes the
    batteries
    (although supposed to be the same specs) can come a few mm larger, also in case the battery 'puffs' as it degrades. Heat shouldn't be a problem but is something to think about.
    29 days ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    Aerokits 46'' twin screw brushless conversion
    Today I had a run with the new
    batteries
    , and It was a great success. I wasn't after more speed, although I couldn't help myself seeing how fast It would go, but wanted more efficiency, which didn't happen as I went too fast, and better run time. When you have a big lake all to yourself on a sunny bank holiday morning, you just got to open It up. Data logging was on board, so with 5 cells per motor, almost 20 mins going fast most of the time, I recorded 25.3mph which Is stupid speed for this boat as It Is so heavy now and a whopping 939watts, 51.82 amps, which are maximum spikes. On a smaller lake It would last a lot longer, but I like speed! ๐Ÿ˜€
    5 years ago by pmdevlin
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Lead acid
    batteries
    should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these
    batteries
    will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these
    batteries
    use the same formula. However lead acid
    batteries
    can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE! Large 12 v lead acid
    batteries
    (e.g. old home security
    batteries
    ) have a time constant of approx 4 hrs so need to be charged 5 x 4 hrs = 20 hrs. I leave mine on overnight which usually does the job, offload charged battery volts are approx 13.8 v.
    30 days ago by Tall Paul
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Lead acid
    batteries
    should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these
    batteries
    will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these
    batteries
    use the same formula. However lead acid
    batteries
    can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE! Large 12 v lead acid
    batteries
    (e.g. old home security
    batteries
    ) have a time constant of approx 4 hrs so need to be charged 5 x 4 hrs = 20 hrs. I leave mine on overnight which usually does the job, offload battery volts are approx 13.8 v.
    30 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiCad Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Ni-Cads should be discharged before re-charging. The discharge rate can be any number of amps really, but ensure the battery stays cool, half an amp or less would be quite adequate. This can be achieved by placing a car bulb or some other lamp onto the battery. Once the light has gone out, the battery will be ready for charging. Slow Charge To recharge a NiCad battery check what mA/h the cells are. if the cells are for example 500mA/h this would be divided by 10 to get 50mA and charged at this rate for 10 hours. This will ensure the battery has the correct amount of energy as it should have, however it is sometimes a good idea to give the battery an extra hour. Fast Charge Fast charges are worked out the same way but so that you can work out the charge current for 1 hour. This means that what ever the mA/h rating the battery is, is the same current as for charging for 1 hour. Fast charges deteriorate battery life and capacity, therefore they should not be done on a regular basis. Winter Storage While these
    batteries
    are not in use it is best they are stored in their discharged state.
    30 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    LiPo Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! LiPo Battery Charging - Use specific Lithium Polymer charger only! Non-compliance may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage. - Do not let the voltage on the cells drop more than 2.75v / Cell. it is recommended to unplug the battery after use which would stop any further discharge of the pack! - Never charge
    batteries
    unattended. Whenever charging Li-Poly
    batteries
    you should always remain in constant observation to monitor the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur. - if at any time you witness a battery starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue charging process immediately, disconnect the battery and observe it in a safe place for approximately 15 minutes. This may cause the battery to leak, and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in fire. Since delayed chemical reaction can occur, it is best to observe the battery as a safety precaution. Battery observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. - Use caution to avoid puncture of the cell. Puncture of cells may cause a fire. - Wire lead shorts can cause fire! if you accidentally short the wires, the battery must be placed in a safe area for observation for approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, if a short occurs and contact is made with metal (such as rings on your hand), severe injuries may occur due to the conductibility of electric current. - in the event of a crash, you must remove battery for observation and place in a safe open area away from any combustible material for approximately 15 minutes. - if for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, it will be necessary to cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires to not touch each other or a short may occur, potentially causing a fire. if you accidentally cause the battery to short, place it in a safe open space and observe the battery for approximately 15 minutes. A battery may swell or even possibly catch fire after a short time. - Never store or charge battery pack inside your car or building in extreme temperatures, since extreme temperature could ignite fire. Charging Process - Never charge
    batteries
    unattended; Charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials; Let battery cool down to ambient temperature before charging. - Do not charge
    batteries
    packs in series. Charge each battery pack individually. Failure to do so may result in incorrect battery recognition and charging functions. Overcharging may occur and fire may be the result. - When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the battery label. As a safety precaution, please confirm the information printed on the battery is correct. - Selecting a cell count other than the one printed on the battery (always confirm label is correct), can cause fire. - You must check the pack voltage before charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if open voltage per cell is less than 3.3v Example Do not charge a 2 cell pack if below 6.6v; 3 cell pack if below 9.9v. - You must select the charge rate current that does not to exceed 1C (one times he capacity of the battery). A higher setting may cause fire. The below chart is calculated at 1 x capacity of pack. Example: 1800mAh: charge below 1.8Amps; 2200mAh: charge below 2.2Amps; 3600mAh: charge below 3.6Amps First Discharge: Keep the run time to 6-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks. Storage & Transportation Store battery at room temperature between 40F and 80F for best results; do not expose battery pack to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.
    30 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most transmitter/receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the transmitter, receiver, the
    batteries
    to go with them and servo's. The style of transmitter is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding equipment should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    30 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiMH Battery Charging
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! NiMH
    batteries
    should not be discharged fully although it wont do them too mcuh harm if this happens. They are not very good for high load applications and tend to deteriorate quickly if put under any load. To charge up these
    batteries
    use this formula. These
    batteries
    should not be placed under any 'fast charges' as they deteriorate too quickly for the amount of amps put through them. NiMH
    batteries
    seem very popular these days as it is a new technology and a lighter weight battery than others. The battery is also recyclable, and eco-friendly, but all this doesn't make it a practical battery to use. it is recommended due to the deterioration rate of this battery to stick with NiCad's for higher current applications. Winter Storage These
    batteries
    should be kept charged up. A charge for half the time of a normal charge every two weeks will be sufficient to keep the battery in its best condition.
    30 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) Lead acid
    batteries
    should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these
    batteries
    will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these
    batteries
    use the same formula. However lead acid
    batteries
    can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE! Large 12 v lead acid
    batteries
    (e.g. old home security
    batteries
    ) have a time constant of approx 4 hrs so need to be charged 5 x 4 hrs = 20 hrs. I leave mine on overnight which usually does the job, offload battery volts are approx 13.8 v.
    30 days ago by Tall Paul
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build D
    All seems like a P-in-the-A to me JB๐Ÿค” Brake force zero OK. But the thing still seems reluctant to go directly to reverse. I'd just as soon spring a few bob/cents more for a really fully programmable ESC, such as the Hobbywing Quicrun series. Also I don't like the Low Voltage so called Protection Function at all! Quote from the User Manual: "For NiMH battery packs, if the voltage of the whole NiMH battery pack is higher than 9.0V but lower than 12V, it will be considered as a 3S Lipo; If it is lower than 9.0V, it will be considered as a 2S Lipo. For example, if the NiMH battery pack is 8.0V, and the threshold is set to 2.6V/Cell, it is considered as a 2S Lipo, and the low-voltage cut-off threshold for this NiMH battery pack is 2.6*2=5.2V." 1 What's an 8.0V NiMh? 6.66666r cells!? 2 Discharged voltage of an NiMh cell is 1.1V. Going below this starts to permanently damage the cell. Thus minimum voltage for this fictitious '8V NiMh' would be 6.6666r x 1.1=7.333r V. So if you use NiMh
    batteries
    this ESC will try to drive them to destruction and leave your boat up the creek w/o a paddleโ˜น๏ธ. With a decent ESC (a la Quicrun!) you can select LiPo or NiMh, and manually tell it how many cells the pack has to be sure the protection works 'as advertised' at the correct voltage.๐Ÿ˜Š Yer pays yer spondulicks and yer takes yer choice! But this ESC would NOT be my choice for a boat. Or anything else for that matter. ร  chacun son goรปt ! As some might say ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery backup
    Nothing to do with
    batteries
    , but,where you near the hail storm that attacked Munich yesterday, car windshield being broken, def no sailing.โšก peter๐Ÿ˜
    1 month ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Battery backup
    Think they only go from 2.6/8 v/cell to 3.8v Doug. Have some which are for REC bat voltage warning but they are only for 4,8v/6v low amp. I plugged one into my TGY 6x TX (runs on 4.8/6v) which I am using NiMh
    batteries
    in,(for a boat TX) and it worked ok on that as a display There must be others for higher output somewhere, I'll have a search around. Evening all, (or morning here in my case) John B P.S we'll have to convert them to LiPos Doug!
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Charge multiple 7.2v NiMh
    batteries
    looking for the best way to charge multiple 7.2v NiMh
    batteries
    at one time without having to buy a chargers for each battery. (trickle charge). right now I have (6) 7.2v and (5) 8.4v (4) 6v
    batteries
    . to get charged after a days playing. - Venom brand, deens connectors - scale ships - AMYA sailboats
    1 month ago by tgilchristjr
    Forum
    Battery backup
    No worries JB๐Ÿ‘ I also have a couple of these for quick LiPo battery / cell voltage checks. They are specifically intended for LiPos though, i.e. ca 3.0V or so per cell. I've noticed many members use NiMh drive
    batteries
    . They would need a warning at 1.1V per cell or a little above. Can yours be set to that? Mine can't! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Nice wings BTW ๐Ÿ‘
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery backup
    Hi Dodgy, welcome back๐Ÿ‘ I see you've been tickling the grey cells. Brainstorming๐Ÿ‘ "The web is full of low-battery detection circuits ... " Agreed Dodgy, Believe I did mention that approach below. On the other hand it's more fun to DIY! ๐Ÿ˜‰ "An alternative approach might be to detect, .... the actual failure of the R/C signal at the servo due to low voltage." .... "A latchable missing pulse detector coupled to a switch ...." Agree again. But loss of signal can have many other (mostly temporary) causes as well, maybe more likely than RX low voltage, a problem which can be practically eliminated by using a separate RX battery anyway. Another reason I prefer not to use the BEC for the RX supply. All but the very cheapest No Name ESCs also seem to have 'Low voltage cut off' ccts anyway. Missing pulse detector - OK. A well known 555 cct. But missing pulses can be caused by a temporary signal fade 'brown out' or interference and if your switch latches ...? False Alarm! Fiddling with the detector timing may help there I guess. Adding a good cell to a low battery is also bad electrical practice anyway. Which will probably end up with the battery and the extra cell being ruined. I believe that is why Martin was thinking about switching to a completely different battery. You'd still need the high current capable switch anyway if you are switching in the drive battery wiring. As you say you'd probably drive the main battery down below safe limits, where the irreversible chemical changes start. Not very economical given the price of decent
    batteries
    . Pulses off the prop shaft !? Fine if you want/need a rev counter but otherwise ...? I would prefer to stick to the essential problem Martin wishes to solve, namely; Low main/drive battery voltage detection. "a boat running slowly would be the best indication to come in" Agreed.๐Ÿ‘ Guess martin's basic idea is to double the run time if there is space for a second drive battery. And maybe a little fun showing the flag ๐Ÿ˜Š All the best. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery backup
    The web is full of low-battery detection circuits - including those with latchable switching to stop the circuit turning back off when the main battery recovers voltage as it is rested. See the link below.https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=opera&q=low-battery+detection+circuits&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 An alternative approach might be to detect, not the dropping of a voltage to some specific level, but the actual failure of the R/C signal at the servo due to low voltage. You can do this with a 555 easily enough and less than half a dozen components - this is often used to drive a sound generator to find a missing aircraft (just turn off the radio), or some other failsafe action. For instance http://www.circuitstoday.com/missing-pulse-detector-circuit-using-ne555 A latchable missing pulse detector coupled to a switch to add a single C NiMH battery to the main power (and an LED warning) would let you get the absolute maximum out of a battery and then boost the voltage sufficiently for a short home run. That is, if you want to run your
    batteries
    down to their limits and you are running on such a low voltage that the BEC is the first thing to go. You could also take pulses off the prop-shaft if you didn't mind the circuit switching in whenever the boat stopped.... ๐Ÿ˜Š Usually, a boat running slowly would be the best indication to come in and change
    batteries
    ....
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    Agreed Martin, one thing at a time! BUT: Stuart; I believe we are discussing your 24" Commander here. In which case your results mirror mine with my 24" Sea Scout. Except that my prop shaft did not bind!!๐Ÿ˜‰ It was also reluctant to plane with a 2S LiPo (7.4V nominal) but went very well and planed easily with a 3S (11.1V nominal). I also was using 4000mAH
    batteries
    . I published my results using various
    batteries
    here in the Media - Video section. Go to the Media Gallery and search for Sea Scout. So, I would leave the motor and prop alone and (after fixing the prop shaft!!!) try a 3S battery. I'm sure you will be satisfied ๐Ÿ‘ Prop technology is complex as Martin said, our old friend Bernoulli raises his head for instance๐Ÿค” But, essentially bigger is better for more speed or same speed with lower shaft revolutions when applied to real size ships. BUT 2: with our electric powered models bigger props often simply increase the load on the motor causing it to draw more current for a fractional increase in boat speed if any. In essence props with fewer blades are inherently more efficient as you hinted. Minimum being 2 of course ๐Ÿ™„ Two bladers are popular with the Fast Electric guys for that reason. I don't do speedboats, I'm a scale guy and my maxim is; If the real vessel had an XYZ screw then so will my model! Summary; first fix the propshaft; lubrication, alignment with motor shaft, ensure a few thou of clearance between prop hub / locknut and the end of the shaft tube. Preferably with a thrust washer in between. Second, fit a 3S battery preferably crosswise above the C of G of the boat. As you can see in the pic of my Sea Scout 'engine room' in your Commander thread. For those with a mathematical mind, undying curiosity and an afternoon to spare I attach a paper on the Principles of Ship Propulsion from MAN, the supplier of small to huge diesels to probably a majority of ships (commercial and naval) built today. You should find Chapter 2: Propeller Propulsion particularly illuminating! Happy reading ๐Ÿ˜‰ Just remember the paper deals with real ships and real water, we have scale ships but not scale water๐Ÿค” Basic dynamics still apply though. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; motor, servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA
    batteries
    in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    4 months ago by StuartE
    Response
    Re: Aero-Naut Classic
    Great post fantastic project - most of use Li-Po
    batteries
    without any issues allbeit in portable or laptop computers, some cell phones, portable chargers and elsewhere. Heck, a standard alkaline 1.5 or 9 volt battery can cause issues if not properly used or placed under stress. But - Iโ€™ve made mistakes myself and come close to bad issues using power sources improperly or without heeding instructions such as using them full out without allowing them to cool. itโ€™s all about using caution and precautions, understandably accidents do happen though
    2 years ago by Brucef102
    Forum
    48inch Fairey Huntsman
    Little Charlie - I wouldn't bother going down the IC route again, there aren't many places where you are allowed to use them now. I bought one of the big Huntsman 31 (though all timber) a little while ago and it is fitted with a brushed Torpedo 850 motor which with a 7.2v lead acid battery (very heavy) has mediocre performance. I plan on changing to a LiPo battery and a brushless motor and would be looking at something like an Overlander Thumper 5045/10 720 kV. This has plenty of torque to get a heavy boat moving and as you can use 3 to 8s
    batteries
    it should give you all the performance that you want. Chris
    2 months ago by ChrisF
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    After the trials, tribulations, experiments and frustration, can finally announce this model is sailing well. It has excellent performance and looks, both on and off the water. A build really for the more experienced modeller though. If the performance envelope is to be explored it should be done on a suitably large area of water with few other vessels around. However, enjoyed building a model of an unusual class of vessels. It expanded my knowledge and skills, then kept me occupied throughout a Canadian winter! Have also been lucky to have received considerable useful advice from other modellers, which was much appreciated. Building from scratch off a proprietary glass fibre hull gives a robust model with plenty of opportunity for individual input. Intend to use this approach again. Whilst am rather blinkered about building scale models to scale; considerable frustration, time and money could have been saved by using a single or even a twin screw layout, rather than the triple. Performance might also have been further improved and weight saved. Several of the U Tube videos of the similar Perkasa models show how well these layouts work. There are several photos attached; 1) Stationary. 2) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 2S battery 3) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 3S battery. Because the pond is small, was unable to capture the marked differences in performance between the 2 and 3 S
    batteries
    . It will plane easily on either, just rather more frenetically on the 3!. Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration. Will endeavour to get pictures and a video that make this more obvious and post when available.
    3 months ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    Did more testing and then reprogrammed the ESCs and Rx. These changes allowed the removal of the brushless motor selection circuitry and improved the tractability of the system. As the videos show, a plane can be achieved with both 2S and 3S
    batteries
    . With the 3S the plane is flatter and faster. Suspect this is due to the increased vertical component of the propeller thrust forcing the rear of the vessel upwards, lifting it and lowering the bow. Of the two, the 3S resembles the original vessel pictures more closely, the bow lifts too far high with the 2S. The videos show the vessel in motion. The first shows a run with 2S
    batteries
    , the next two show similar runs with 3S. Just found cannot upload three videos on one blog. Anyway, they can all be seen on UTube under 'Brave Borderer blog'. Anticipate further refining of the powertrain with a future running, but doubt any significant improvements will be achieved. Performance is great anyway and am very happy with it. This will be the concluding post for this model.
    2 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    hi there Chewi having read through your postings and watching your video - I am not sure if you have the ACTion P94 set up correctly. You should be able to spin that model round on the spot as the P94 contains a rudder motor mixer built into it. However, be warned, the P94 doesnt like certain 2.4 transmitter sets. Basically, you have to set your transmitter back to zero manufacture settings with no mixing at all on your transmitter to get it working - and - its all done in the ESC - I have built several triple screw vessels myself - the RAF63and the MTBs and basically what I used to do there is use the old Electronize speed controllers from the 90s which dont have the pre-programmed chips in them so that I could switch the signal on and off to the speed controller, thus allowing me to control the centre prop by switching the signal off and on. So, when I wanted speed I ran on all 3 props but when I wanted to manouvre I switched the centre prop off and allowed the 2 outboard motors to spin the vessel with the rudders, using mixers. In this particular model - I would ditch the gelcel battery and go for a Ni-MH battery and the 9.6 volt 500 mAh - 3 of these
    batteries
    one for each motor should give you ample run time. John
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Media
    RTTL IN SLOW MO
    here's a short clip of my RTTL tearing up the lake :-) she has 2 MTroniks 600s driving 30 ml brass props both rotating in the same direction as in the real boats and she has 2 x 4300 mAmp ni-cad
    batteries
    in. Lasts for about 15 mins full chat :-) John
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Response
    Re: The Kent windscreen, some small cabin & deck fittings.
    Very nice Robbob. What's next ? Maybe the handcuffs ? ๐Ÿ˜‰ Must admit to wondering if I should resurrect my original boat from the deep dark depths of the back corner of the garage, and bring it back to life. The trouble is, that if I do, it has no room for modern day radio gear esc and
    batteries
    . Oh, decisions decisions ? LOL. Cheers Robbob, ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by rolfman2000


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