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    RTTL IN SLOW MO
    here's a short clip of my RTTL tearing up the lake :-) she has 2 MTroniks 600s driving 30 ml brass props both rotating in the same direction as in the real boats and she has 2 x 4300 mAmp ni-cad
    batteries
    in. Lasts for about 15 mins full chat :-) John
    3 days ago by JOHN
    Response
    Re: The Kent windscreen, some small cabin & deck fittings.
    Very nice Robbob. What's next ? Maybe the handcuffs ? ๐Ÿ˜‰ Must admit to wondering if I should resurrect my original boat from the deep dark depths of the back corner of the garage, and bring it back to life. The trouble is, that if I do, it has no room for modern day radio gear esc and
    batteries
    . Oh, decisions decisions ? LOL. Cheers Robbob, ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 days ago by rolfman2000
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    "....that is why I was looking at this thread with interest. As I hoped to learn something!." My thoughts about brushless motors... - they are a different kind of motor, so they have different characteristics. In particular they need different ESCs. - Their ESCs come with three cables. You can connect them to the three inputs to the motor in any order. If you want the motor to go backwards, simply reverse any of the two connections. - you can get In-runners, which are high-speed ones. Out-runners are higher torque ones. There is a special type called 'Sensored' which can go very slow and are used for rock-crawling vehicles, but they need special Sensor ESCs and are expensive. - they are much more efficient without a sparking commutator to pass electricity through. - they don't have tight limits on the voltage they must be run at. More volts = more speed, and hence power. - they are happiest running at high speed. They don't much like trying to run slowly, and tend to start with a jerk. - the main limitation on them is thermal. You can run them until the coils get too hot for the magnets to work (upon which they are fatally damaged!). - you can get astonishing amounts of power out of quite small sized motors if you give them enough electricity and keep them cool. They suck up power from
    batteries
    given the chance, and high-output
    batteries
    like Lipos are ideal for them. If you use other
    batteries
    , check that the battery can output a lot of power - if it can't, the brushless performance may be disappointing... - I find it is best to run them at low voltages (12V or less) at which point they don't heat up at all. The motors are often capable of running from 6v to about 20v... - Rather than power, the motors are measured on size of can and KV. KV is the speed in RPM that each volt will produce. So a 1000 KV motor will do 12,000 RPM on 12V. If it is specced as a 2824, that means it is 28mm wide and 24mm long. - Cooling is important, and hard to specify precisely. Depends on the power being used, and the cooling technology you provide. Most brushless are designed to run in aircraft where there is lots of cooling air. For boats, you can get cooling jackets for in-runners and cooling mounts for outrunners. Having some air throughput is a good idea - but hard to arrange on a boat... Unless you are sure that you are running well below the power limits, you should use a Watt-Meter to track the power usage rather than try to calculate things. This discussion may provide an idea of how to worry about brushless motor limits: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1329612-Brushless-motor-rated-voltage
    10 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    What
    batteries
    ?
    Hello, my friend from a distance. Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700 motors. NiMh
    batteries
    are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the controllers. The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts. Motors would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all models. Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end. In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up. If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC controllers and AC motors, it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power. Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator. https://www.bighobby.cz/Bighobby-NANO-Tech-4200mAh-2S-25C-d1972.htm https://www.bighobby.cz/Sunrise-X80A-Car-sensored-stridavy-regulator-80A-d1010.htm# https://www.bighobby.cz/Motor-Turnigy-D35-36-1250kv-d609.htm Hi Zdenek
    11 days ago by Inkoust
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    Like I said Rooky, that was before I got my new goggles! At that distance wasn't so easy to guesstimate how far behind it she was! (Either that or there was a microcosmic black hole hiding in the buoy ๐Ÿ˜ฎ) Your right! Dad swan was protecting his littl'ns ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMUlSOaAREM&feature=youtu.be A little later he chased me out into the middle of the lake - but couldn't keep up, PHEW! ๐Ÿ˜‚ Here the performance with a fresh 3S battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0BWJ3duzDw&feature=youtu.be BTW: there's a full report on these 'builder's sea trials', with test results using various
    batteries
    , in my build blog (Sea Scout - Jessica) and in the Media Gallery I think. How about a blog of what you are up to with yours? ๐Ÿ‘ Don't often see Sea Scouts here. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    General information required
    Hi Jimbob, Welcome aboard ๐Ÿ‘ Sorry to hear about the circumstances though! To your query- We have a For sale / Wanted rubric here on the site. If you click on the Forum button you will see a row of yellow buttons near the top showing the forum categories. You seem to have found this already! So now- Click on Create New Forum Topic- The entry window will open- Click For Sale / Wanted under Categories- Subject perhaps 'Several ships for sale' Then first off I would post a list of the ships with basic info; Name, Type, photo, basic dimensions, location, and asking price. Then if anyone replies showing interest you could follow up, using the ship's name as a Subject title to the post, with details, including of any equipment fitted or available separately such as associated transmitters,
    batteries
    and chargers etc., and see where it goes. Hope this helps, good luck๐Ÿคž All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    "A Hobbyking 3639-1100kv 800Watt on a 3S 5800mah Lipo battery with a 100Amp ESC and for a prop 2 blade 40-45mm. If you require a faster motor a 3648-1450kv is a straight change over with all the other bits the same. Also you can change the battery to 4S and it will be a rocket...." How hot would that get, and what sort of cooling would be needed? I have a number of 36mm brushless that I would like to try out, preferably with high-output NiMh
    batteries
    . The largest brushless I have is a 42mm, and I really don't know what that would be suitable for...
    12 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    Yorkshireman refit- rear deck
    No turning back now I thought this was going to be straight forward. I've decided to put the main bridge superstructure to one side of the work bench and forget it, for now. In the past I found its easy to try to do to much, you get bogged down,disheartened and loose interest. So the next job now the decks are off was to check the rudders operation. It did seem a bit vague,the boat came with a full set of working radio gear. 4x6volt
    batteries
    in banks of 2 that took a charge well. A steering servo and 2x decaperm geared 6v motors turning in opposite directions with handed 4 bladed screws. The rudder cranks were white metal that didn't grip the rudder shafts tight enough, hence the vagueness, 1 motor was loose on the mountings, the other had a cracked gear box cover. Is it me, this scenario seems so reminiscent of so many good looking cars and bikes I've bought over the last 40 years, only to find within a couple of weeks you've got "sucker" written across your forehead, and a lame dog on your hands. These to me are the type of challenge I like. There the only ones I know come to think of it. New kits are for pussies? Jokingly. Anyway if someone in the past has taken all that time and effort to turn a silk purse into a pigs ear, I look at it as a challenge to turn it back into its former glory. None of the hatch tops were square especially the covers for the rudder cranks, and as can be seen in the accompanying photos the deck holes weren't raised to stop water ingress. I re cut the holes to help fit new cranks and fitted 10mm up stands, made new sheet hatch covers then refitted the original hinges and handles. Also while cleaning the loose paint layers off the outer stern bulwark, I uncovered the original name of the boat. It was originally a "Yorkshireman" hence my goal to turn a Irishman into a Yorkshireman. Apparently after a bit of reading up they were sister ships in real time and were built not 20miles from me at Selby, Yorkshire around 1976.
    15 days ago by Rogal118
    Response
    Re: Lesro Sportsman II
    Well maiden voyage semi successful, no chance of a video it flew!, too much speed, to course a prop, chewed through a 12v 3.3ah battery in about 4 minutes... So, new prop on order, same diameter much less course, rearranged
    batteries
    to use 7.2v, and added 4 of them in parallel to give me 14ah. Will also add a couple of chines to the Hull for stability
    24 days ago by Shopper
    Forum
    Plan Sources
    Er... yes. I have also done a bit of research when drawing up the EeZeBilt PT boat. The US came late to the concept of light torpedo boats. The original doctrine, gathered from the old WW1 exploits of the MAS boats, was that these light boats would overcome capital ships by force of numbers and agility - typically in harbour defence scenarios where their lack of blue-water range was not an issue. Similarly, they could defend against prowling submarines. Since the US did not have any close maritime enemies, they did not consider light torpedo boats to be worth investing in. Strategy had moved on by WW2, and when the US finally considered them, with the 'Plywood Derby', their original raison d'etre had all but vanished. capital ships were surrounded by Torpedo Boat Destroyers, and radar meant that it would be suicide to consider approaching a 'big gun' enemy on the high seas. Nevertheless, the initial US PTB purchase specified armament for just this function - standard US Mk VIII tube-launched torpedos, smoke for concealment and 0.5 calibre machine guns for local/AA defence. This turned out to be almost completely useless in practice. The tactical doctrine makes engrossing reading: "...3401. Unsupported attack on enemy task force.-The plans for attacking an enemy convoy apply equally to attacking an enemy task force, the only material difference being that stiffer resistance may be expected and a great number of boats should normally be employed. 3402. Supported attacks in fleet action.-This type of attack has such a wide range of possibilities which depend on so many factors that it is not possible to recommend any general plan. Some of the possibilities, however, are listed below. (a) Night action with destroyer support where MTB's first attack the enemy screen, permitting destroyers to penetrate the screen and attack the - main body. (b) Night action with destroyer or light cruiser support where the DD's and CL's engage the screen, permitting MTB's to pierce the screen and attack the main body. (c) Day action where destroyers, aircraft and MTB's attack enemy main body simultaneously. MTB's launched from a carrier or operating from a fleet base. 3403. Attacks coordinated with aircraft.-Attacks by large numbers of motor torpedo boats and aircraft made simultaneously on enemy forces should be highly successful, as such attacks will present a great multiplicity of targets for enemy anti-aircraft and secondary
    batteries
    and will bring heavy striking power to bear on the enemy. The time of the attack will depend upon the motor torpedo boats, as aircraft can control their timing more readily. The aircraft attack may be a dive-bombing, strafing, or torpedo attack or any combination thereof. An aircraft torpedo attack, coordinated, should be made on opposite side from the MTB attack. A high altitude horizontal bombing attack will not divide the enemy's fire to the maximum extent, as he will not divert the use of his machine guns toward the bombers. In this type of attack all available motor torpedo boats should attack simultaneously...." !!! There are a number of propaganda stories during the early part of WW2 suggesting that PT boats were engaging and sinking Japanese cruisers. These all seem to be untrue, and circulated as 'morale boosters'. I can find few examples of a successful attack on a big ship - the strike on the light cruiser Abukuma by PT137 during the Battle of Surigao Strait (which was almost certainly a mistake!) is one notable example. The PT boats came into their own as shore harassing gunboats and inter-island supply interdiction once the initial Japanese advance halted, and that was when they began needing to add more guns. The Toku Daihatsu barges used for Japanese supply were almost immune to torpedoes, drawing only a foot or so, and were heavily armoured, so the 'Ma Deuces' were of limited use. Some early PT boats had a 20mm Oerlikon mounted on the stern. I have never seen one with twin Oerlikons mounted this way, though there might have been occasional one-offs. Invariably the armour plate on the gun was discarded for weight reasons. Single 20mm Oerlikons were also mounted on the front quarters, together with the distinctive 'horse-collar' M4 37mm cannon, initially from u/s Bell P-39 Airacobras, but later as a standard fitting. By 1945 they were adding 5" rockets... On the stern the boats were rapidly updated to carry a Bofors 40mm, which they could do when the heavy MkVIII torpedo tubes were replaced with light Mk XIII aircraft 'roll-off' torpedoes. A bit of a misnomer, this, as the torpedoes did not actually roll.... But I have never seen a PT Boat with a 35mm cannon on it. The radar fitting was one of three types: 1 - no radar 2 - SO dome 3 - SO-3 with rotating parabola. I wish there was a simple, cheap way to get a 1:48 Bofors gun. The EeZeBilt PT boats need a Bofors on the back, but I haven't managed to source one yet. And I suppose I should add torpedo tubes to provide accuracy across the whole PT range... Below is a picture of two EeZeBilt PT boats. The far one is an 1940 model with no radar mast and a single Oerlikon on the stern. It should really have tubes as well, of course. Note the position of the life-raft on the bow. The near one is a 1944 fit, with an M4 at the front and SO radar. The life-raft has moved back to the top of the chart cabin. It should really have a Bofors on the stern, and a small boat on the day cabin, but I haven't made these yet. And, of course, no PT Boat had varnished wooden planking. But I just thought that it looked nice... ๐Ÿค—
    26 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    After the trails, tribulations, experiments and frustration, can finally announce this model is sailing well. It has excellent performance and looks, both on and off the water. A build really for the more experienced modeler though. If the performance envelope is to be explored it should be done on a suitably large area of water with few other vessels around. However, enjoyed building a model of an unusual class of vessels. It expanded my knowledge and skills, then kept me occupied throughout a Canadian winter! Have also been lucky to have received considerable useful advice from other modelers, which was much appreciated. Building from scratch off a proprietary glass fibre hull gives a robust model with plenty of opportunity for individual input. Intend to use this approach again. Whilst am rather blinkered about building scale models to scale; considerable frustration, time and money could have been saved by using a single or even a twin screw layout, rather than the triple. Performance might also have been further improved and weight saved. Several of the U Tube videos of the similar Perkasa models show how well these layouts work. There are several photos attached; 1) Stationary. 2) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 2S battery 3) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 3S battery. Because the pond is small, was unable to capture the marked differences in performance between the 2 and 3 S
    batteries
    . It will plane easily on either, just rather more frenetically on the 3!. Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration. Will endeavour to get pictures and a video that make this more obvious and post when available.
    26 days ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    LiPo
    batteries
    It is almost 9 months since I charged the new LiPo
    batteries
    for storage. Unfortunately I still have not used the 4s 4500
    batteries
    since then but I do check them every 4 months to see how they are. They have been good so I have not had to do anything with them. I decided on this visit to replenish the storage charge on all of the
    batteries
    . I was shocked to find out that all of the
    batteries
    were almost perfect with only a few minutes of charging required, but the two 4s
    batteries
    , the oldest, did not take a charge at all. They are still very good. I will use them when I return here in August.
    29 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    LiPo
    batteries
    Please can I get some advice on LiPo
    batteries
    . I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.๐Ÿ˜Š
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Directory
    (Yacht) Catharine
    Uses 4 AA
    batteries
    to power the Spektrum Receiver and two servos. Mast is 22โ€ Boom 20โ€ Sail material is from Doyle Sailmakers inc. 2.2oz Fibrermax nylon from Challenge Sailcloth Draft is 3โ€ Bean 8โ€ (9/10)
    9 months ago by Ron
    Directory
    MTB from a Model Boats plan
    Here are a couple of pics of my MTB which I built from a freebie plan which was in Model Boats - the plans were by Glyn Guest. We had it on the lake last Sunday for a run around - she has a 540 motor fitted; an Mtroniks 15 amp speed controller; and can run for a good while on 7.2 300 mAh
    batteries
    1 month ago by JOHN
    Blog
    First REAL Sail in Open Water
    I wanted to use separate controls for the fore and main+mizzen yards, but my "new" winch drums where crap, and I only had one drum available, the wood disc and cardboard one I've been using. So, I linked all three masts together. it was very near the end of October, but the forecast was for light breezes and mid to high 50's (about 13ยฐc). I rigged her royals for the first time, ran all the bracing to the tops'l yards instead of the courses. I redid the bracing plan to only use tops'l yard braces instead of both tops'l yards and courses. This simplifies everything, and hopefully it would be enough. I had a list of specific items to test, so based on that list, here's a report on the first time Constellation really sailed, under full control, in open water: First off, she was sailed in Rock Creek, Maryland, USA. My friend Mark has access to the neighborhood boat-ramp three blocks down the street. He brought his "Son of Erin" along, rigged as a sloop (it's convertible) and his grand-kids who live nearby. So... 1. Test fit in car; she hasn't been in my Toyota Matrix yet. -It was tricky at first, but it worked. No one or nothing else is getting in the car, so this isn't the preferred transport by any means - but it's nice to know it's there. Note in the photo, in the car on the left is the launch cart with the wheels removed, packed in nice and neat. 2. Test the new launch cart. -As noted, it broke down and packed away really nicely. The approach to the ramp was very steep, and I took her down head first so she wouldn't slide off the back of the cart. The bumpy ground made the model slide back a lot. I'm going to put a stop in the channel that will catch the edge of the PVC cap and should fix that problem. There's was also a lot of slop in the flag pole bracket, the hole for the bolt that holds the two parts is bigger than the bolt, making for too much play in the handle. I replaced it with another pole bracket that fit more snugly. The wheels are hard and a bit jarring, especially on the ramp where there was broken concrete underwater so cars wouldn't sink into the silt. The handle was the bigger problem though, slopping up and down and flexing. Otherwise the cart performed as expected and I was really pleased with it. When I used it to one side of the ramp where there was hard sand, I had no problems at all. 3. With the royals set, she'll be sailing with the most sail she's set so far. -The forecast was for Northerly winds up to 5 mph. Up in the creek that was variable in direction and speed, gusting at least to 15 now and then, sometimes from two directions! The model took it all very well, though my heart beat faster every time she heeled, I don't think she once got her gun-stripe wet. 4. Test fore tops'l yard brace routing. -No problems at all, everything worked as designed, for a change. 5. See how self-tending bowlines rigged on the main tops'l work out. -They seemed to function just fine. When the model was close enough to see them, they didn't snag or interfere with the sail or bracing. 6. Actually sail the model in open water instead of bumping the bottom in a shallow pool. -A combination of joy and terror. Every gust my heart raced, but she sailed great and went where I meant her to go from the beginning. She responded to controls perfectly and predictably. 7. Get some pictures and video of the model sailing. -One thing that went wrong was my camera's
    batteries
    dying, so I didn't get all the pics and video I wanted. Fortunately, Mark was on hand and took some shots and video with his phone. In all, the day was a resounding success. Everything went well, nothing broke or failed. And she sailed! Not like her first sail where she barely made head way for more than a few seconds, but controllably, reliably, and fast too! I handled her by myself. Mark was there and offered his help, but part of my test was seeing if I could deal with it all 100% by myself. No problems. The awkward bit was sitting her on her ballast and lining the rods with their holes without her falling off. That's something I need to work out, otherwise no part of loading, unloading, launching, retrieving, etc, was more than one person could handle. in the end, what I thought would work out back in 1999 did. Here's 16 minutes of that day's sailing... https://youtu.be/80b2au24rFQ
    2 years ago by Jerry Todd
    Forum
    Editing WIKI How To Articles - Or not!?
    Hi Ed, that bug has been sorted now (squished๐Ÿ˜ฎ), so over the next week or so I will update the How Tos for
    batteries
    to reflect the current technologies. And explain the terminology involved; including those that are little more than marketing gags! I did mention to Stephen last year, when I previewed the new site, that I would wish to do this. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Battery Capacities & Wiring
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED ;-) (FB)
    batteries
    can give you many different outputs (!?) depending on how they are wired up. As long as you don't have to worry about weight you could try endless methods of wiring different types of
    batteries
    to get a desired output. Wiring
    batteries
    in Series Wiring
    batteries
    in series is a great way to increase voltage, as you can see on the diagram below the voltage is added up in each cell which then equals its output. The mA/h does not change when
    batteries
    are wired up in series. The only problem with
    batteries
    wired up like this is that they are prone to faults, were you end up with a 'dead cell', this means that when you are charging/discharging the pack there might be one cell that doesn't hold its charge as much as others bringing the overall capacity of the battery down. Wiring
    batteries
    in Parallel (DON'T DO IT!!) When
    batteries
    are in parallel the mA/h will increase (not the voltage). Remember:- the mA/h does not mean the current going through speed controllers etc. it is only a guide to the maximum current a battery can except where it will last for one hour. Theory About The Whole mA/h Thing! Just think of the
    batteries
    being a tank of liquid, when the liquid runs out the battery runs out. Below are four diagrams:- The height of the liquid in the tank increases the pressure/voltage at the bottom. The area of the liquid increases the overall capacity of the tank/battery. The number of amps the motor can draw is not limited to mA/h of the battery, the mA/h is only a guidance figure to tell us how many hours it will take before the battery/tank runs out. If you really wanted you could let out 10 Amps worth of liquid, just that the battery wont last very long unless it has a larger capacity. In Car Terms The diagrams below explain the differences between the size of the tanks and the distance that can be traveled. 5 Gallon Tank = 1000mA/h Battery 10 Gallon Tank = 2000mA/h Battery If you have a car with a small fuel tank it might do say 100 miles at 50MPH. if the same car had a larger tank it may do 200 miles at 50MPH. The size of the tank does not effect the speed the car does, but it will effect the distance it can travel. Golden Rule DO NOT MIX
    batteries
    OF DIFFERENT TYPES!
    2 months ago by Fireboat
    Wiki
    Battery Capacities & Wiring
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED ;-) (RN)
    batteries
    can give you many different outputs (!?) depending on how they are wired up. As long as you don't have to worry about weight you could try endless methods of wiring different types of
    batteries
    to get a desired output. Wiring
    batteries
    in Series Wiring
    batteries
    in series is a great way to increase voltage, as you can see on the diagram below the voltage is added up in each cell which then equals its output. The mA/h does not change when
    batteries
    are wired up in series. The only problem with
    batteries
    wired up like this is that they are prone to faults, were you end up with a 'dead cell', this means that when you are charging/discharging the pack there might be one cell that doesn't hold its charge as much as others bringing the overall capacity of the battery down. Wiring
    batteries
    in Parallel (DON'T DO IT!!) When
    batteries
    are in parallel the mA/h will increase (not the voltage). Remember:- the mA/h does not mean the current going through speed controllers etc. it is only a guide to the maximum current a battery can except where it will last for one hour. Theory About The Whole mA/h Thing! Just think of the
    batteries
    being a tank of liquid, when the liquid runs out the battery runs out. Below are four diagrams:- The height of the liquid in the tank increases the pressure/voltage at the bottom. The area of the liquid increases the overall capacity of the tank/battery. The number of amps the motor can draw is not limited to mA/h of the battery, the mA/h is only a guidance figure to tell us how many hours it will take before the battery/tank runs out. If you really wanted you could let out 10 Amps worth of liquid, just that the battery wont last very long unless it has a larger capacity. In Car Terms The diagrams below explain the differences between the size of the tanks and the distance that can be traveled. 5 Gallon Tank = 1000mA/h Battery 10 Gallon Tank = 2000mA/h Battery If you have a car with a small fuel tank it might do say 100 miles at 50MPH. if the same car had a larger tank it may do 200 miles at 50MPH. The size of the tank does not effect the speed the car does, but it will effect the distance it can travel. Golden Rule DO NOT MIX
    batteries
    OF DIFFERENT TYPES!
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most transmitter/receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the transmitter, receiver, the
    batteries
    to go with them and servo's. The style of transmitter is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding equipment should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) Lead acid
    batteries
    should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these
    batteries
    will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these
    batteries
    use the same formula. However lead acid
    batteries
    can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE!
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiCad Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) Ni-Cads should be discharged before re-charging. The discharge rate can be any number of amps really, but ensure the battery stays cool, half an amp or less would be quite adequate. This can be achieved by placing a car bulb or some other lamp onto the battery. Once the light has gone out, the battery will be ready for charging. Slow Charge To recharge a NiCad battery check what mA/h the cells are. if the cells are for example 500mA/h this would be divided by 10 to get 50mA and charged at this rate for 10 hours. This will ensure the battery has the correct amount of energy as it should have, however it is sometimes a good idea to give the battery an extra hour. Fast Charge Fast charges are worked out the same way but so that you can work out the charge current for 1 hour. This means that what ever the mA/h rating the battery is, is the same current as for charging for 1 hour. Fast charges deteriorate battery life and capacity, therefore they should not be done on a regular basis. Winter Storage While these
    batteries
    are not in use it is best they are stored in their discharged state.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiMH Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) NiMH
    batteries
    should not be discharged fully although it wont do them too mcuh harm if this happens. They are not very good for high load applications and tend to deteriorate quickly if put under any load. To charge up these
    batteries
    use this formula. These
    batteries
    should not be placed under any 'fast charges' as they deteriorate too quickly for the amount of amps put through them. NiMH
    batteries
    seem very popular these days as it is a new technology and a lighter weight battery than others. The battery is also recyclable, and eco-friendly, but all this doesn't make it a practical battery to use. it is recommended due to the deterioration rate of this battery to stick with NiCad's for higher current applications. Winter Storage These
    batteries
    should be kept charged up. A charge for half the time of a normal charge every two weeks will be sufficient to keep the battery in its best condition.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    LiPo Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) LiPo Battery Charging - Use specific Lithium Polymer charger only! Non-compliance may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage. - Do not let the voltage on the cells drop more than 2.75v / Cell. it is recommended to unplug the battery after use which would stop any further discharge of the pack! - Never charge
    batteries
    unattended. Whenever charging Li-Poly
    batteries
    you should always remain in constant observation to monitor the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur. - if at any time you witness a battery starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue charging process immediately, disconnect the battery and observe it in a safe place for approximately 15 minutes. This may cause the battery to leak, and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in fire. Since delayed chemical reaction can occur, it is best to observe the battery as a safety precaution. Battery observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. - Use caution to avoid puncture of the cell. Puncture of cells may cause a fire. - Wire lead shorts can cause fire! if you accidentally short the wires, the battery must be placed in a safe area for observation for approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, if a short occurs and contact is made with metal (such as rings on your hand), severe injuries may occur due to the conductibility of electric current. - in the event of a crash, you must remove battery for observation and place in a safe open area away from any combustible material for approximately 15 minutes. - if for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, it will be necessary to cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires to not touch each other or a short may occur, potentially causing a fire. if you accidentally cause the battery to short, place it in a safe open space and observe the battery for approximately 15 minutes. A battery may swell or even possibly catch fire after a short time. - Never store or charge battery pack inside your car or building in extreme temperatures, since extreme temperature could ignite fire. Charging Process - Never charge
    batteries
    unattended; Charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials; Let battery cool down to ambient temperature before charging. - Do not charge
    batteries
    packs in series. Charge each battery pack individually. Failure to do so may result in incorrect battery recognition and charging functions. Overcharging may occur and fire may be the result. - When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the battery label. As a safety precaution, please confirm the information printed on the battery is correct. - Selecting a cell count other than the one printed on the battery (always confirm label is correct), can cause fire. - You must check the pack voltage before charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if open voltage per cell is less than 3.3v Example Do not charge a 2 cell pack if below 6.6v; 3 cell pack if below 9.9v. - You must select the charge rate current that does not to exceed 1C (one times he capacity of the battery). A higher setting may cause fire. The below chart is calculated at 1 x capacity of pack. Example: 1800mAh: charge below 1.8Amps; 2200mAh: charge below 2.2Amps; 3600mAh: charge below 3.6Amps First Discharge: Keep the run time to 6-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks. Storage & Transportation Store battery at room temperature between 40F and 80F for best results; do not expose battery pack to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there, this is the only pic I have of Virgin Atlantic Challenger on the water, which I built from 'free' plans in a model boats magazine - built all of lite ply - powered by 7.4 NiCad
    batteries
    - and there is a Race 5
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Directory
    (Yacht) Koh-i-Noor
    I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary motor,
    batteries
    , sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy. (Motor: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10)
    2 years ago by ads90
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer
    The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and
    batteries
    , etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt
    batteries
    , one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10)
    3 years ago by ads90
    Blog
    Shop/Refrigerator
    Not much, happening this time of year. The shop doesn't have heat, so things like
    batteries
    that shouldn't be left in the cold come in the house, and the shop which seems to stay at or near 40ยฐf/4ยฐc, become an annex to our refrigerator. Now and then we get a warm day or three, and I open the doors because it's actually warmer outside than in, but more often than not what gets done is for other folks, and not the models. Spring is about a month off, but we'll likely get get some warmer days before that and I have been doodling some thoughts on what to address on all three models when the opportunity appears. On Constellation that's chainplates, pinrails, and getting the mizzen bracing working - a fairlead got some epoxy in it and needs to be cleared. I also want to get into some details like railings on the mast tops, and the bands that the futtocks attach to on the masts. if you don't know what that is, just wait and it'll be explained.
    3 months ago by Jerry Todd
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    You can power a brushless from lead acid
    batteries
    electric is electric. Lipo
    batteries
    are often used because of their ability to provide power with a relatively low weight and can dump LOTS of amps. As Colin pointed out 2 6volt
    batteries
    in parallel will provide 6 volts and cannot be tapped for 12v to obtain 12v the
    batteries
    need to be in series and 6 volts can be tapped off but will only provide the energy from one of the two
    batteries
    .
    2 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Dick, two 6v
    batteries
    in series wil give 12v, which you can tap off 6v if required. But not in parallel I'm afraid. Hope this helps you. Cheers Colin.
    2 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid
    batteries
    and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid
    batteries
    will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
    2 months ago by Dick
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Thankyou all so much. Yes a sea hornet with a funny cabin. Wonder how it ended up with this cabin? Wonder how it ended up in a little country town called Ross in Tasmania Australia? I'm sure i'll have some questions in the future re motor and
    batteries
    .
    3 months ago by juskiddin
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    I have now connected the
    batteries
    and entered into the Aux channel mode on the TX. I have set gear to channel 5 and throttle hold to channel 6. Two of my lighting circuits now work perfectly using the gear switch and the throttle cut switch on the Tx. I just need one more to enable the third circuit to light. there are still two or three two position switches available to use but are not supported in the Aux channel menu. I am told that they can be used by altering the mix menu but I am afraid this goes beyond me at this time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; motor, servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA
    batteries
    in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    3 months ago by StuartE
    Media
    USS Chesty B Puller
    USS Chesty B Puller, I was a marine, 63 inches long, prebuilt by Aquacraft, engines installed, but no radio,
    batteries
    or speed control. Looks great in water. preforms like a real one, especially in still water, but we don't have much of that in Kansas.
    3 months ago by blackheart
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Fairey Swordsman
    Bought this some years ago with a holed hull and no cabin. Made only those repairs needed to make it useable, fitted new 2.4Ghz radio gear and
    batteries
    , and have been using it ever since. I keep threatening to restore it properly but it's fun as it is and a rebuild is probably more realistic anyway. (5/10)
    3 months ago by Mids-Phil
    Blog
    PS Iona - Motors
    So to power the tug I needed some sort of motor gearbox arrangement, and I wanted 2 of them so I could drive the paddles independently, using 2 ESCs /
    batteries
    . The answer came in the form of 1:16 scale model tank motors/gearboxes. I managed to find a couple on a well known selling platform... someone was upgrading their tank to metal gears and had 2 for sale. The gearing got the speed of the output shaft down to almost sensible, so I just needed to reduce it and connect the output to the paddle shafts... using Meccano gears & chains of course. This works well and allows scale speed running of the paddles up to much faster than scale speed!(if it's windy) Oh, just to mention the motor frames were mounted with grommets to blocks of wood to provide some suspension, and be removable if necessary.๐Ÿค“
    3 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    Paddle Tug Iona- paddle boxes & superstructure
    Building the paddle boxes was remarkably easy, once the 1mm ply had been steamed for bending. I decided to build the boxes first and make sure the paddles fitted inside later, the idea being that all this would come apart for maintenance should it be necessary. (it usually is!). There are few models to be found on the internet to use as reference and hardly any images of the original tug. And to confuse matters, PS Iona also existed as a passenger ship, as well as tug, and looked a bit different. The superstructure is really simple and quick to build, with some more planking! Am liking planking small areas now. The funnels came from some scrap plastic tubing in the garage... just the right diameter too, a lucky find. These will screwed in place from below once I have the other funnel parts made. I plan to run the tug on
    batteries
    rather than steam, as I am a relative novice to model boat building. The whole deck will be fitted with 1mm ply as a base before... more planking! Before all this is glued in place, I thought it best to water test the ship first and see how much ballast I am likely to need.
    3 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    6 Volts of Course of Course!
    Captain's Log: The right battery for the job! I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the water line! The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery. Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the
    batteries
    from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12
    batteries
    weigh too much! So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!๐Ÿ‘
    4 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH
    batteries
    . it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo
    batteries
    . We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    4 months ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Tin Can Madness
    Hello, Could not resist starting an experiment with an all metal container. This is a small tomato sauce tin can out of the pantry. First time I tried soldering tin to brass and it is very easy, with flux, to do. Will run test on both smokers and publish photos. As noted, it is a good idea to add a fuse between the
    batteries
    and the powers switch as these heaters tend to draw 2 amps or more, be careful with wire gauge as well. Danger of fire.... Joe
    4 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Cracked Battery!
    I know what is was ๐Ÿ˜‰ COMMS equipment; particularly for ship to shore radio! Obviously made a deeper impression than
    batteries
    ๐Ÿ˜
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Cracked Battery!
    Hi Doug, No, I mean $40.00 for all three
    batteries
    ! But, I'm still looking! I found one for $23.33. It's 6 volts at 8.5Ah and it weighs 3.1 Lbs. Which is just the right Ballast for Tug Brooklyn! Also ample power 1.5 hour run.....๐Ÿ‘
    4 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Cracked Battery!
    Did you see my note about the 2 pound
    batteries
    ? At the local battery and light bulb shop they wanted about $24 for each. I got my TWO for $22 from Walmart. Pays to shop around.
    4 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Cracked Battery!
    Captain's Log: I hadn't inspected the new
    batteries
    . I received for Tug Brooklyn! But, on close inspection of the
    batteries
    . One of them came with a crack!๐Ÿ˜ฑ๐Ÿ˜ค๐Ÿ˜ก So, got in contact with the company. I purchased the
    batteries
    from. And will be sending both.
    batteries
    back for a refund! Luckily, I was looking around and have found. Lighter
    batteries
    ! Will be ordering those soon! At half the price of the ones I sent back!
    4 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Weight Too Much!
    Ed, For my Spinger Tug, I was able to find 6 volt / 4.5 ah
    batteries
    that are only 2 pounds each. 1 7/8 x 2 3/4 x 3 7/8" .... I purchased two (2) for $22 USD, ordered thru Walmart and they arrived within a week. There are a lot of SLA's out there, takes some time to find the right ones. Good luck! Joe
    4 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Reassembly
    Continuing on, I finished mounting the light bar, all lights are functioning. For some reason my iPad does not like LEDs and they don't photograph when lit. Made an exhaust stack out of brass tube, mitered the top, soldered and painted. Hull dry now so I mounted the superstructure onto the hatch, reinstalled the tow bits, switch and
    batteries
    , RX, motor, etc. Getting close to sea trials, maybe this week schedule permitting. Cheers, Joe
    4 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    New
    batteries
    !
    Captain's Log: Well, I order new
    batteries
    for the Tug Brooklyn. I placed the order about a week ago. I received them last night! Before I continue let me say this. I was using the
    batteries
    from Tug Serenity AKA Jersey City! Those
    batteries
    are 6 Volts at 2.5 Amps! For a total of two! I saw what I thought were the same battery. Only at 6 Volts at 8 Amps. For a total of 12 Volts at 8 Amps! Well the
    batteries
    are huge! I had to take all of the Forward ballast out of Tug Brooklyn! Even then she's a bit bow heavy. But, I really want the extra Power! Because Tug Brooklyn is a 12 Volt Tugboat! Take a look at the
    batteries
    side by side. It's a good thing there's enough room in her forecastle! I'm putting the
    batteries
    end to end and they fit! Oh, the
    batteries
    weigh 6.5 LBS!๐Ÿ˜ฑ
    5 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Electronics,wiring
    My
    batteries
    arrived, could not find locally so ordered through Walmart online. Two - 6volt 4.5AH, wired in parallel to give me 6v @ 9AH. Used inline fuse, prior to switch, then on to the esc, a Dynamite Tazar 15 T marine type. On/off switch will operate from outside so hatch will not have to be removed. Had some real nightmares trying to program this esc! Setup lights would not come on, went through all procedures, slept on it tried ecpvery website, tried again today, nothing. I was about to look into a new purchase, THEN LIKE MAGIC.... I mistakenly switched it to my zBrooklyn Tug mod on th TX which uses the same esc, and it startled me with the motor running and rudder moving. Everything worked great. So I just copied all of the settings into this build on the TX. HAPPY NOW Photo shows the mass of wires that allows me to shift the
    batteries
    for final ballasting, they will be tucked away neatly as build is finalized. Regards, Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi All If you require a brush ESC. The Hobbyking one is the only one I have found with straight forward/ reverse with NO BRAKE. Set is with links, but the they only work on Nicads and Lipo
    batteries
    . They will run on 12 volt SLA, but no less!!!! I am using them in my two Hellen fishing boats with 55 turn rock crawler motors on 2S Lipo on 60% throttle. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-60a-2s-3s-waterproof-brushed-esc-for-1-10.html Canabus
    5 months ago by canabus


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