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    Forum
    Editing WIKI How To Articles - Or not!?
    Hi Ed, that bug has been sorted now (squished๐Ÿ˜ฎ), so over the next week or so I will update the How Tos for
    batteries
    to reflect the current technologies. And explain the terminology involved; including those that are little more than marketing gags! I did mention to Stephen last year, when I previewed the new site, that I would wish to do this. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Battery Capacities & Wiring
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED ;-) (FB)
    batteries
    can give you many different outputs (!?) depending on how they are wired up. As long as you don't have to worry about weight you could try endless methods of wiring different types of
    batteries
    to get a desired output. Wiring
    batteries
    in Series Wiring
    batteries
    in series is a great way to increase voltage, as you can see on the diagram below the voltage is added up in each cell which then equals its output. The mA/h does not change when
    batteries
    are wired up in series. The only problem with
    batteries
    wired up like this is that they are prone to faults, were you end up with a 'dead cell', this means that when you are charging/discharging the pack there might be one cell that doesn't hold its charge as much as others bringing the overall capacity of the battery down. Wiring
    batteries
    in Parallel (DON'T DO IT!!) When
    batteries
    are in parallel the mA/h will increase (not the voltage). Remember:- the mA/h does not mean the current going through speed controllers etc. it is only a guide to the maximum current a battery can except where it will last for one hour. Theory About The Whole mA/h Thing! Just think of the
    batteries
    being a tank of liquid, when the liquid runs out the battery runs out. Below are four diagrams:- The height of the liquid in the tank increases the pressure/voltage at the bottom. The area of the liquid increases the overall capacity of the tank/battery. The number of amps the motor can draw is not limited to mA/h of the battery, the mA/h is only a guidance figure to tell us how many hours it will take before the battery/tank runs out. If you really wanted you could let out 10 Amps worth of liquid, just that the battery wont last very long unless it has a larger capacity. In Car Terms The diagrams below explain the differences between the size of the tanks and the distance that can be traveled. 5 Gallon Tank = 1000mA/h Battery 10 Gallon Tank = 2000mA/h Battery If you have a car with a small fuel tank it might do say 100 miles at 50MPH. if the same car had a larger tank it may do 200 miles at 50MPH. The size of the tank does not effect the speed the car does, but it will effect the distance it can travel. Golden Rule DO NOT MIX
    batteries
    OF DIFFERENT TYPES!
    4 days ago by Fireboat
    Wiki
    Battery Capacities & Wiring
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED ;-) (RN)
    batteries
    can give you many different outputs (!?) depending on how they are wired up. As long as you don't have to worry about weight you could try endless methods of wiring different types of
    batteries
    to get a desired output. Wiring
    batteries
    in Series Wiring
    batteries
    in series is a great way to increase voltage, as you can see on the diagram below the voltage is added up in each cell which then equals its output. The mA/h does not change when
    batteries
    are wired up in series. The only problem with
    batteries
    wired up like this is that they are prone to faults, were you end up with a 'dead cell', this means that when you are charging/discharging the pack there might be one cell that doesn't hold its charge as much as others bringing the overall capacity of the battery down. Wiring
    batteries
    in Parallel (DON'T DO IT!!) When
    batteries
    are in parallel the mA/h will increase (not the voltage). Remember:- the mA/h does not mean the current going through speed controllers etc. it is only a guide to the maximum current a battery can except where it will last for one hour. Theory About The Whole mA/h Thing! Just think of the
    batteries
    being a tank of liquid, when the liquid runs out the battery runs out. Below are four diagrams:- The height of the liquid in the tank increases the pressure/voltage at the bottom. The area of the liquid increases the overall capacity of the tank/battery. The number of amps the motor can draw is not limited to mA/h of the battery, the mA/h is only a guidance figure to tell us how many hours it will take before the battery/tank runs out. If you really wanted you could let out 10 Amps worth of liquid, just that the battery wont last very long unless it has a larger capacity. In Car Terms The diagrams below explain the differences between the size of the tanks and the distance that can be traveled. 5 Gallon Tank = 1000mA/h Battery 10 Gallon Tank = 2000mA/h Battery If you have a car with a small fuel tank it might do say 100 miles at 50MPH. if the same car had a larger tank it may do 200 miles at 50MPH. The size of the tank does not effect the speed the car does, but it will effect the distance it can travel. Golden Rule DO NOT MIX
    batteries
    OF DIFFERENT TYPES!
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most transmitter/receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the transmitter, receiver, the
    batteries
    to go with them and servo's. The style of transmitter is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding equipment should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Lead Acid Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) Lead acid
    batteries
    should not be discharged and kept charged up as much as possible. Discharging these
    batteries
    will reduce their capacity. if they are kept for any length of time without a charge, they will not charge up again. To charge up these
    batteries
    use the same formula. However lead acid
    batteries
    can cope with heavy currents and it is sometimes a good idea to charge them up with a higher current. Now and then charge them up with double the current as usual and for half the time. So for example, a 5000mA/h battery, should be charged on 1 Amp for 5 hours. Winter Storage To ensure they will be fine when next used make sure they have a top-up charge every couple of weeks. Half the length of time of a normal charge. DO NOT HAVE THE BATTERY ON A CONSTANT TRICKLE CHARGE!
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiCad Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) Ni-Cads should be discharged before re-charging. The discharge rate can be any number of amps really, but ensure the battery stays cool, half an amp or less would be quite adequate. This can be achieved by placing a car bulb or some other lamp onto the battery. Once the light has gone out, the battery will be ready for charging. Slow Charge To recharge a NiCad battery check what mA/h the cells are. if the cells are for example 500mA/h this would be divided by 10 to get 50mA and charged at this rate for 10 hours. This will ensure the battery has the correct amount of energy as it should have, however it is sometimes a good idea to give the battery an extra hour. Fast Charge Fast charges are worked out the same way but so that you can work out the charge current for 1 hour. This means that what ever the mA/h rating the battery is, is the same current as for charging for 1 hour. Fast charges deteriorate battery life and capacity, therefore they should not be done on a regular basis. Winter Storage While these
    batteries
    are not in use it is best they are stored in their discharged state.
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    NiMH Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) NiMH
    batteries
    should not be discharged fully although it wont do them too mcuh harm if this happens. They are not very good for high load applications and tend to deteriorate quickly if put under any load. To charge up these
    batteries
    use this formula. These
    batteries
    should not be placed under any 'fast charges' as they deteriorate too quickly for the amount of amps put through them. NiMH
    batteries
    seem very popular these days as it is a new technology and a lighter weight battery than others. The battery is also recyclable, and eco-friendly, but all this doesn't make it a practical battery to use. it is recommended due to the deterioration rate of this battery to stick with NiCad's for higher current applications. Winter Storage These
    batteries
    should be kept charged up. A charge for half the time of a normal charge every two weeks will be sufficient to keep the battery in its best condition.
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    LiPo Battery Charging
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) LiPo Battery Charging - Use specific Lithium Polymer charger only! Non-compliance may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage. - Do not let the voltage on the cells drop more than 2.75v / Cell. it is recommended to unplug the battery after use which would stop any further discharge of the pack! - Never charge
    batteries
    unattended. Whenever charging Li-Poly
    batteries
    you should always remain in constant observation to monitor the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur. - if at any time you witness a battery starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue charging process immediately, disconnect the battery and observe it in a safe place for approximately 15 minutes. This may cause the battery to leak, and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in fire. Since delayed chemical reaction can occur, it is best to observe the battery as a safety precaution. Battery observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. - Use caution to avoid puncture of the cell. Puncture of cells may cause a fire. - Wire lead shorts can cause fire! if you accidentally short the wires, the battery must be placed in a safe area for observation for approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, if a short occurs and contact is made with metal (such as rings on your hand), severe injuries may occur due to the conductibility of electric current. - in the event of a crash, you must remove battery for observation and place in a safe open area away from any combustible material for approximately 15 minutes. - if for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, it will be necessary to cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires to not touch each other or a short may occur, potentially causing a fire. if you accidentally cause the battery to short, place it in a safe open space and observe the battery for approximately 15 minutes. A battery may swell or even possibly catch fire after a short time. - Never store or charge battery pack inside your car or building in extreme temperatures, since extreme temperature could ignite fire. Charging Process - Never charge
    batteries
    unattended; Charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials; Let battery cool down to ambient temperature before charging. - Do not charge
    batteries
    packs in series. Charge each battery pack individually. Failure to do so may result in incorrect battery recognition and charging functions. Overcharging may occur and fire may be the result. - When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the battery label. As a safety precaution, please confirm the information printed on the battery is correct. - Selecting a cell count other than the one printed on the battery (always confirm label is correct), can cause fire. - You must check the pack voltage before charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if open voltage per cell is less than 3.3v Example Do not charge a 2 cell pack if below 6.6v; 3 cell pack if below 9.9v. - You must select the charge rate current that does not to exceed 1C (one times he capacity of the battery). A higher setting may cause fire. The below chart is calculated at 1 x capacity of pack. Example: 1800mAh: charge below 1.8Amps; 2200mAh: charge below 2.2Amps; 3600mAh: charge below 3.6Amps First Discharge: Keep the run time to 6-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks. Storage & Transportation Store battery at room temperature between 40F and 80F for best results; do not expose battery pack to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there, this is the only pic I have of Virgin Atlantic Challenger on the water, which I built from 'free' plans in a model boats magazine - built all of lite ply - powered by 7.4 NiCad
    batteries
    - and there is a Race 5
    8 days ago by JOHN
    Directory
    (Yacht) Koh-i-Noor
    I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary motor,
    batteries
    , sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy. (Motor: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10)
    2 years ago by ads90
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer
    The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and
    batteries
    , etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt
    batteries
    , one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10)
    2 years ago by ads90
    Blog
    Shop/Refrigerator
    Not much, happening this time of year. The shop doesn't have heat, so things like
    batteries
    that shouldn't be left in the cold come in the house, and the shop which seems to stay at or near 40ยฐf/4ยฐc, become an annex to our refrigerator. Now and then we get a warm day or three, and I open the doors because it's actually warmer outside than in, but more often than not what gets done is for other folks, and not the models. Spring is about a month off, but we'll likely get get some warmer days before that and I have been doodling some thoughts on what to address on all three models when the opportunity appears. On Constellation that's chainplates, pinrails, and getting the mizzen bracing working - a fairlead got some epoxy in it and needs to be cleared. I also want to get into some details like railings on the mast tops, and the bands that the futtocks attach to on the masts. if you don't know what that is, just wait and it'll be explained.
    1 month ago by Jerry Todd
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    You can power a brushless from lead acid
    batteries
    electric is electric. Lipo
    batteries
    are often used because of their ability to provide power with a relatively low weight and can dump LOTS of amps. As Colin pointed out 2 6volt
    batteries
    in parallel will provide 6 volts and cannot be tapped for 12v to obtain 12v the
    batteries
    need to be in series and 6 volts can be tapped off but will only provide the energy from one of the two
    batteries
    .
    15 days ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Dick, two 6v
    batteries
    in series wil give 12v, which you can tap off 6v if required. But not in parallel I'm afraid. Hope this helps you. Cheers Colin.
    15 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid
    batteries
    and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid
    batteries
    will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
    15 days ago by Dick
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Thankyou all so much. Yes a sea hornet with a funny cabin. Wonder how it ended up with this cabin? Wonder how it ended up in a little country town called Ross in Tasmania Australia? I'm sure i'll have some questions in the future re motor and
    batteries
    .
    18 days ago by juskiddin
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    I have now connected the
    batteries
    and entered into the Aux channel mode on the TX. I have set gear to channel 5 and throttle hold to channel 6. Two of my lighting circuits now work perfectly using the gear switch and the throttle cut switch on the Tx. I just need one more to enable the third circuit to light. there are still two or three two position switches available to use but are not supported in the Aux channel menu. I am told that they can be used by altering the mix menu but I am afraid this goes beyond me at this time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
    19 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; motor, servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA
    batteries
    in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    21 days ago by StuartE
    Media
    USS Chesty B Puller
    USS Chesty B Puller, I was a marine, 63 inches long, prebuilt by Aquacraft, engines installed, but no radio,
    batteries
    or speed control. Looks great in water. preforms like a real one, especially in still water, but we don't have much of that in Kansas.
    30 days ago by blackheart
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Fairey Swordsman
    Bought this some years ago with a holed hull and no cabin. Made only those repairs needed to make it useable, fitted new 2.4Ghz radio gear and
    batteries
    , and have been using it ever since. I keep threatening to restore it properly but it's fun as it is and a rebuild is probably more realistic anyway. (5/10)
    1 month ago by Mids-Phil
    Blog
    PS Iona - Motors
    So to power the tug I needed some sort of motor gearbox arrangement, and I wanted 2 of them so I could drive the paddles independently, using 2 ESCs /
    batteries
    . The answer came in the form of 1:16 scale model tank motors/gearboxes. I managed to find a couple on a well known selling platform... someone was upgrading their tank to metal gears and had 2 for sale. The gearing got the speed of the output shaft down to almost sensible, so I just needed to reduce it and connect the output to the paddle shafts... using Meccano gears & chains of course. This works well and allows scale speed running of the paddles up to much faster than scale speed!(if it's windy) Oh, just to mention the motor frames were mounted with grommets to blocks of wood to provide some suspension, and be removable if necessary.๐Ÿค“
    1 month ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    Paddle Tug Iona- paddle boxes & superstructure
    Building the paddle boxes was remarkably easy, once the 1mm ply had been steamed for bending. I decided to build the boxes first and make sure the paddles fitted inside later, the idea being that all this would come apart for maintenance should it be necessary. (it usually is!). There are few models to be found on the internet to use as reference and hardly any images of the original tug. And to confuse matters, PS Iona also existed as a passenger ship, as well as tug, and looked a bit different. The superstructure is really simple and quick to build, with some more planking! Am liking planking small areas now. The funnels came from some scrap plastic tubing in the garage... just the right diameter too, a lucky find. These will screwed in place from below once I have the other funnel parts made. I plan to run the tug on
    batteries
    rather than steam, as I am a relative novice to model boat building. The whole deck will be fitted with 1mm ply as a base before... more planking! Before all this is glued in place, I thought it best to water test the ship first and see how much ballast I am likely to need.
    1 month ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    6 Volts of Course of Course!
    Captain's Log: The right battery for the job! I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the water line! The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery. Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the
    batteries
    from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12
    batteries
    weigh too much! So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!๐Ÿ‘
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH
    batteries
    . it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo
    batteries
    . We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    2 months ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Tin Can Madness
    Hello, Could not resist starting an experiment with an all metal container. This is a small tomato sauce tin can out of the pantry. First time I tried soldering tin to brass and it is very easy, with flux, to do. Will run test on both smokers and publish photos. As noted, it is a good idea to add a fuse between the
    batteries
    and the powers switch as these heaters tend to draw 2 amps or more, be careful with wire gauge as well. Danger of fire.... Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Cracked Battery!
    I know what is was ๐Ÿ˜‰ COMMS equipment; particularly for ship to shore radio! Obviously made a deeper impression than
    batteries
    ๐Ÿ˜
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Cracked Battery!
    Hi Doug, No, I mean $40.00 for all three
    batteries
    ! But, I'm still looking! I found one for $23.33. It's 6 volts at 8.5Ah and it weighs 3.1 Lbs. Which is just the right Ballast for Tug Brooklyn! Also ample power 1.5 hour run.....๐Ÿ‘
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Cracked Battery!
    Did you see my note about the 2 pound
    batteries
    ? At the local battery and light bulb shop they wanted about $24 for each. I got my TWO for $22 from Walmart. Pays to shop around.
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Cracked Battery!
    Captain's Log: I hadn't inspected the new
    batteries
    . I received for Tug Brooklyn! But, on close inspection of the
    batteries
    . One of them came with a crack!๐Ÿ˜ฑ๐Ÿ˜ค๐Ÿ˜ก So, got in contact with the company. I purchased the
    batteries
    from. And will be sending both.
    batteries
    back for a refund! Luckily, I was looking around and have found. Lighter
    batteries
    ! Will be ordering those soon! At half the price of the ones I sent back!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Weight Too Much!
    Ed, For my Spinger Tug, I was able to find 6 volt / 4.5 ah
    batteries
    that are only 2 pounds each. 1 7/8 x 2 3/4 x 3 7/8" .... I purchased two (2) for $22 USD, ordered thru Walmart and they arrived within a week. There are a lot of SLA's out there, takes some time to find the right ones. Good luck! Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Reassembly
    Continuing on, I finished mounting the light bar, all lights are functioning. For some reason my iPad does not like LEDs and they don't photograph when lit. Made an exhaust stack out of brass tube, mitered the top, soldered and painted. Hull dry now so I mounted the superstructure onto the hatch, reinstalled the tow bits, switch and
    batteries
    , RX, motor, etc. Getting close to sea trials, maybe this week schedule permitting. Cheers, Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    New
    batteries
    !
    Captain's Log: Well, I order new
    batteries
    for the Tug Brooklyn. I placed the order about a week ago. I received them last night! Before I continue let me say this. I was using the
    batteries
    from Tug Serenity AKA Jersey City! Those
    batteries
    are 6 Volts at 2.5 Amps! For a total of two! I saw what I thought were the same battery. Only at 6 Volts at 8 Amps. For a total of 12 Volts at 8 Amps! Well the
    batteries
    are huge! I had to take all of the Forward ballast out of Tug Brooklyn! Even then she's a bit bow heavy. But, I really want the extra Power! Because Tug Brooklyn is a 12 Volt Tugboat! Take a look at the
    batteries
    side by side. It's a good thing there's enough room in her forecastle! I'm putting the
    batteries
    end to end and they fit! Oh, the
    batteries
    weigh 6.5 LBS!๐Ÿ˜ฑ
    3 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Electronics,wiring
    My
    batteries
    arrived, could not find locally so ordered through Walmart online. Two - 6volt 4.5AH, wired in parallel to give me 6v @ 9AH. Used inline fuse, prior to switch, then on to the esc, a Dynamite Tazar 15 T marine type. On/off switch will operate from outside so hatch will not have to be removed. Had some real nightmares trying to program this esc! Setup lights would not come on, went through all procedures, slept on it tried ecpvery website, tried again today, nothing. I was about to look into a new purchase, THEN LIKE MAGIC.... I mistakenly switched it to my zBrooklyn Tug mod on th TX which uses the same esc, and it startled me with the motor running and rudder moving. Everything worked great. So I just copied all of the settings into this build on the TX. HAPPY NOW Photo shows the mass of wires that allows me to shift the
    batteries
    for final ballasting, they will be tucked away neatly as build is finalized. Regards, Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi All If you require a brush ESC. The Hobbyking one is the only one I have found with straight forward/ reverse with NO BRAKE. Set is with links, but the they only work on Nicads and Lipo
    batteries
    . They will run on 12 volt SLA, but no less!!!! I am using them in my two Hellen fishing boats with 55 turn rock crawler motors on 2S Lipo on 60% throttle. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-60a-2s-3s-waterproof-brushed-esc-for-1-10.html Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Response
    Crack in Seam Update!
    Star date 29.12.18 Supplemental 00.52 ๐Ÿ˜ I hope it works too Ed. ๐Ÿ‘ Don't forget to seal any exposed wood before dunking it again. And I would recommend putting all the ballast and
    batteries
    back in (at least loosely) to recreate actual sailing conditions; i.e. water pressure on the potential leak area. I wondered why you went to such lengths anyway. Had similar problems with the restorations of my Sea Scout and fish cutter. I simply soaked the affected areas in resin, inside and out, while holding in clamps. Sand, fill (Bondo?๐Ÿ˜), sand, paint and Bob's yer uncle and Fanny's yer Aunt ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Nevertheless; hope it works for you Ed, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Crack in Seam Update!
    Captain's Log: Supplemental Well, today was a good day to fix. The leak in Brooklyn's aft end! I scraped off the paint around the skeg area and boss! I then took a piece of 10mm x 110mm plastic. And glued it to the seam. Making sure to cover the area. That was cracked and leaking! I am then going to let the glue set over night. If all goes well, the leak should stop..... I will reassemble her aft end. And do a Domestic Test Tank Test! If the Test Succeeds. I will then repaint the aft end of the tug! And put all of her Ballast back and her
    batteries
    ! Hope my repair works!!!
    3 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Deck, servo mount
    Put together a pilot house based on some tugs I've seen. Just freelanced it as I went. I build a lot with styrene so I am used to just cutting and building. I use liquid styrene cement that fuses the materials together. See photo, will trim it out as I mount it, need to add some detail at roof and some Navigational lighting. Put on on 3mm plywood deck, same as hull bottom. The deck is also curved (proper term is SHEAR) and I started to build up some wood edge at the opening. Will sand everything well, then start sealing and priming all surfaces. Made a bracket for the rudder servo mount and an adjacent platform for the ESC and RX. Ordered two 6v 5ah SLA
    batteries
    . I will wire in parallel to stay with 6v and get 10ah. I like to stay with 6 volts as I want the motor to run slow like a tug should. Will wire in an in-line fuse. Haven't decided where I will put switch, up high somewhere to avoid water. I will show the wiring once I get to it. This build is going fast because it's a simple design, just what I was looking for. I work on it late afternoons and into the evening while I watch basketball games. About 4 hrs a day. Looking forward to building the hatch and getting some primer started tomorrow. Regards, Joe ๐Ÿ‘
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Hum, Now What!
    Hi Joe, Thanks for the idea! I'm going to take the boat apart! I have to take her ballast out! Take her
    batteries
    out! I think she's leaking from where the prop shaft. comes out of the Boss! So, I'm going to make a flange. Which will be the same size as the Boss. And will cover the Boss! Hopefully this will fix the leak problem! Regards, Ed
    3 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    fuses
    Schnellboot Radio control setup 3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors (running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts) 3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and batteryโ€™s
    batteries
    are 1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack 2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack All
    batteries
    are 7.2 V I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help
    3 months ago by teejay
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Brooklyn Steam Tug
    I built this from a Dumas Tug Kit, nice kit with lots of detail. Two SLA
    batteries
    provide ballast along with lead weight. Gearing is from an older type model aircraft type. ESC is a marine type, forward, backward drive, big 4" Dumas prop. This tug is back in dry dock for addition of led navigational lighting. The initial build was undertaken while I was battling stage 4 cancer, it keep my mind occupied during chemo and surgery recovery, stayed positive! Model building is very meditative to me, try it if you have't, Have fun. Photos to come once out of dry dock. (Motor: 550 dc) (ESC: Tamar T15) (8/10)
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Fairmount Glacier
    A Billings kit, the Fairmount Glacier (or Alpine - comes with 5 naming options) is a sturdy boat... 2 props in Kort nozzles, extras I've fitted...37 lights, bow thruster, working fire monitors, radar, & horn. Runs on 2 x 12v 7AH
    batteries
    , so runs for a while! Colour scheme makes it visible on the lake too! (Motor: 2 x M500 Mtronix) (ESC: JP Marine) (9/10)
    3 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Forum
    Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring
    Hi Haverlock, Quite correct. Nobody said it did! We took it as read that for operation main power drive would be connected and disconnected at the end of the run. Preferably by removing a fuse in the positive lead.
    batteries
    should not be left connected in models anyway.๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    Mine is still in the "pile of bits on the bench" stage but when I figure out how to package it I'll post some pics. The model it's going into is HMS Cadiz, battle class destroyer which is around 1:96 scale so there's not a huge amount of space available, especially as the funnel is currently above the radio gear and
    batteries
    so I'll need to pipe the steam from the spare compartment I have nearer the bow.
    4 months ago by landie
    Forum
    happy hunter
    I haven't done a great deal to the happy hunter over the last months but the superstructure and masts are almost finished.I want to get the ballast in it next .I,ve got 2 -6 volt
    batteries
    in and tried about 1kg of lead at each end -this isn't enough .I would welcome thoughts on what weight will be needed in addition to the
    batteries
    -I,m thinking a total of 4kg.Also any ideas on getting the lead moulded to the right shape for the bottom of the hull would be appreciated
    4 months ago by spitfiresooty
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect
    batteries
    there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two
    batteries
    must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power ๐Ÿ˜ก To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the
    batteries
    - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality๐Ÿ‘) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment ๐Ÿ˜‰ Have fun, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    SLA question
    Hi J.Barry, You can use the SLA
    batteries
    in any position but if they are laid on their side the weight is not evenly distributed. Most of the weight is in the lower section of the battery (when vertical), so if you lay one sideways in your boat you need to move it so that the weight is even, especially if you put one on the centreline of the boat (say over the keel). You can test this outside of the boat.
    4 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Couple of other plates. When I have finished the rudder and housed it to the rudder post and sorted the rc control linkage for it I will take out too the pond for ballasting and a swim. Once I know how much and where ballasting is needed I shall insert aluminium angle in to the hull to house lead acid
    batteries
    and lead blocks.
    4 months ago by Toby
    Forum
    SLA question
    Hi J.Barry, I run SLA's in my tugboats! Yes, you can put them in any position! They are sealed and there's no liquid in them. The
    batteries
    are sealed electrolyte-tight, immune against installation attitude they are solid! Cheers, Ed
    4 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Doug, Am using the HobbyKing 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their programming card. The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one. jbkiwi My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an aircraft pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S
    batteries
    with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use? The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment! Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.
    4 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi rapidair65, Most Brushless ESCs seem to assume that you are using either LiPo or NiMh
    batteries
    . it needs to know which so it can set the correct cut off voltage per cell, e.g. 3.=V for Lipo. From the applied voltage it can work out how many cells and the correct cut off. If you are using two SLA I assume 2x6V in series giving 12V. So tell the ESC that you are using NiMh and it will assume 10 cells @ 1.2V / cell. I'll be interested to hear how you get on as an SLA has nominally 2V per cell!! You should get away with it as the ESC checks the total voltage applied - it has no access to individual cells ๐Ÿ˜‰ it will probably let the battery voltage go down to 11V before stopping the motor(s)๐Ÿ˜ฒ Good luck, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich


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