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    Blog
    Just another, Smit Nederland Build!
    Well, The Tug Atlantic was a no go! So, I ordered the Tug Smit Nederland! This is going to be a nice build. I have many idea's in mind! I'm going to incorporate independent throttling! also independent smokers will be used as well! Her lighting will be tricky. But with help from others on the website. I'm sure I'll be able to put running light! Her main power will be two 12 volt
    batteries
    ! But they will work independently of each other. Via a switch! Kind of what's known as a guest switch! Well that's it for now! ETA of arrival is Oct'3 for the kit! Kit coming from across the pond! Stay tuned to further updates!👍
    10 days ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Futaba F14 Controller Arrived!
    My F14 controller arrive on schedule. I was a bit confused with the unit! I thought they sent me the wrong controller. But, It turns out it the right controller! I had ordered the 2.4ghz unit. But, the unit comes marked 40mhz! But, after looking around and reading. The pamphlets it turns out it's 2.4ghz! I thought I was going to have to send it back! Now all I have to do is order. The
    batteries
    that it uses. Also order the chargers! You would think for such a expensive radio. They would give the battery packs. But, I guess that's how they make their money! I had also ordered the dual throttle controller. Which I plan on installing shortly! According to how this radio is configured. I can add another 6 channels to it! That should be enough. For what I'm going to do to her. Controls whise!
    19 hours ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Upgrade to 2.4
    This is a plastic boat which used to be sold in large numbers for the RNLI. It is now rather rare and is collectable. Here is one on Ebay for £127! Note - that does not mean that they will get a sale at that price - but they will still sell for quite a lot! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-RNLI-SEVERN-RADIO-CONTROL-LIFEBOAT-RNLB-VOLUNTEER-SPIRIT-GREAT-CONDITION/264428640626?hash=item3d912cd972:g:8OYAAOSwrdRdUWr8 These were often converted to 'proper' 2.4GHz by modellers. I've never examined one, but I think they are 27Mhz, driving two motors which provide steering and power. If that is so, a conversion would mean buying a 2.4Ghz radio set, a single motor and propshaft and a servo and rudder, taking out the entire inside of the boat and re-installing the new equipment. You would need some modelling skill to do this. It is unlikely that the other 2.4Ghz sets interfered with your signal. The 27Mhz set installed in your boat will have limited range compared with the 2.4Ghz systems, but it should work adequately close to you. Perhaps your
    batteries
    are weak, the aerial is badly positioned, or there was some 27Mhz interference close to you? If someone else was using a 27Mhz radio close to you then it may interfere if they and you were on the same 'spot frequency'. The 27Mhz band is divided up into sections, and only one boat can use one of those sections at a time. These sections are given colours, and you fly a coloured flag on your aerial to tell everyone that you are using that section - called a 'spot'. Do you know what spot your boat is on, and was there anyone flying a coloured flag on their aerial near you? I think you have a difficult decision. Either keep it as it is and make it work as well as it can, or get some help and spend some money converting it. I would try to get it working as well as I could first. Have you tried a range check? Get someone to hold the boat while you walk away with the controller and see how far it will work... and the next time you take it to the pond, ask one of the experienced modellers if they can help a bit...
    3 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Krick and Hobbyking
    "I've got so many
    batteries
    (you do with planes, about a grands worth!, some I haven't used yet) so I won't be needing too many until I've worn these out, (still using some I bought in 2011,- always balance charge at low rate). " Same here JB, although I don't do planes anymore. Two prangs and a fly-away was enough for me🤔 I always charge at max 1A as well. Usually nearer 500mA. All this cr*p about fast charging at XXXC is just marketing rhubarb to get you to ruin your
    batteries
    and buy more! Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Krick and Hobbyking
    Re - Bad luck JB!🤔 That's 'Middle Earth to you'! You guys have it pretty good being so close to so many countries Doug, you must be spoilt for choice. We have/had? a Hobby King depot here, never used it, prices were the same (if they had it) and I've got so many
    batteries
    (you do with planes, about a grands worth!, some I haven't used yet) so I won't be needing too many until I've worn these out, (still using some I bought in 2011,- always balance charge at low rate). Newer HK
    batteries
    are crap, early ones were much better quality as were their motors, (still using some 10yr old 42/60 'gold' motors on original bearings.) Just changed 35/48 1100kv motor in my BD6 and found the inner bearing was stuffed already (5 flights,- last brand new motor I bought from HK!) Earlier model of the same motor still good after 8 years! One good thing about boats is you don't have to thrash the
    batteries
    as much! JB
    3 days ago by jbkiwi
    Directory
    Indecision
    This boat was recently purchased on-line from the grandson of the 1:1 boat in the photos. He built the boat from old photos and his memory. This is truly a "pond yacht" as the is no access to below deck for any radio control equipment. The plan is to keep the boat as shown but to up up grade the deck hardware and aft deck details. It is powered by a small electric motor running on one "C" cell battery. Since the first posting testing has shown the single "C" cell didn't have enough power to turn the prop while in the water. Experiments with other
    batteries
    has shown a combination of two 3.7v Li-po
    batteries
    in parallel should give up to one hour run time. in the interim I've added a few more photos of the update to the trim. You'll notice the companionway now has a door and hatchway. Unfortunately it blocks the view of the detailed interior the builder made. There are some additional items that have been added since these photos were taken including more detail to the control panel and a steaming light and stern light. I'm undecided about adding a small boat to the cabin top as a lifeboat/dingy. Time will tell...
    4 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Response
    Re: large smit tug duel esc
    Nice tug Mark, at 47" she must weigh heavy, what
    batteries
    do you use 6 or 12 volt? cheers Peter😐
    6 days ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Wiring help needed.
    Thanks Doug, I have sketched the layout as best I can. Lights and radar will be switched direct to
    batteries
    . I need 4 channels to operate the esc, rudder, fire hydrant rotation, and fire hydrant vertical movement. The pump is switched via micro switches and cam on the rotator so it only works when pointing away from the boat. What I need to do is to get the thruster to run in 2 directions??? The UBEC can give me either 5 or 6 volts output. So I'll need to switch it somehow, as it only needs to run at one speed. I only have a 4 channel rc transmitter and receiver spare at present, so I may go with a fixed height on the fire hydrant if i need another servo channel to control the thruster. 🤔 ALL and any help gratefully received. Now to go and look at the electrics on the Wavemaster. Cheers Colin.
    9 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Night Watch
    Must forward this to the Fleet admiral-a dispatch was received from PO Errol Cat who is in command of the Texas Navy’s flagship San Jacinto while CPO Hargett is on leave following the skirmish with the Oklahomans-message reads “meow, meow, meeeowww, hiss hiss purr meow” translation follows: “On last watch noticed rogue Oklahoman rabbits of their Second squadron assembling what appeared to be a an unauthorized shore battery of unknown size, probably 3 pounder. Tried to contact to no avail. Later in the watch the battery was turned against the San Jacinto, but their aim was high and they missed our fwd bow and mid ships. I then ordered the fwd
    batteries
    to open fire. Result, rabbits retreating north to Oklahoma, shore battery destroyed. Signed, Errol T Cat, PO, temporary commander San Jacinto” Respectfully requesting shore leave for my crew and an increase in the catnip ration for PO Errol Cat upon my return from leave, which should be this weekend. CPO Cash Hargett, Texas Navy western squadron. 😀
    11 days ago by Cashrc
    Response
    Re: Maiden Voyage
    I've only today discovered this website and forum, so imagine my delight at finding a build blog of my little H31. It was never intended to be a beginner's model as you've discovered, Stuart, but you really have made a nice job of it - especially that bow flare, which can be a pig to do unless you approach it systematically. There's a video of my own model at Wicksteed Park on You Tube so you can compare speeds etc. The video was kindly made by Martin 'Mayhem' Davis, so don't blame me for the music! I understand that SLEC will now include in future kits a laser-etched 0.8mm ply deck overlay with the correct shape and spacing of the planks. The new Swordsman kit has such an overlay and really looks the business. Yes - that pulpit does need silver-soldering. I had to learn how to do this but I had some excellent guidance from Cupalloy and now it's a doddle. I've just done another pulpit in 1/8" brass for my next project and it's come out very well first time with no problems. That's the wonderful think about this hobby - I've been doing it for over 50 years and I still learn new things with every model. Ten years ago I'd never have used epoxy finishing resin; I'd never heard of brushless motors or LiPo
    batteries
    , and silver-soldering was something that only steam-loco builders and jewellers did. Keep the faith! Dave M
    13 days ago by Dave Milbourn
    Blog
    Graupner Taucher Wulf-an ongoing drama
    Hi y’all. Just over a year ago a I sold off some of my hobby stash and decided to use the funds for more hobby stuff😁 The Taucher Wulf kit from Graupner caught my eye, and I thought it would be a fun build..boy was I wrong! To be fair, at the time I bought the Wulf my only scale type boat was a Krick Felix and a Robbe San Remo that I had built in the early 90s, and again a few years ago. I knew nothing of ballast as the boats I had built besides the aforementioned were race type boats, and if you said “geared motor” to me then I’m thinking of a Robbe or Graupner surface drive for fast electrics..but I felt confident in my abilities to build the Taucher. I knew that Graupner had been bought out and production move to Asia, and that the manuals weren’t quite up to snuff as I had just completed a Micro Magic from their latest production run, so I figured I could handle the build. Now as far as the kit goes, it’s pretty nice. The hull and fwd deck are one piece and molded from fiberglass and primered. The fittings and parts looked decent, and there was a lot of brass and plastic rod plus laser and die cut parts. The real problem with the Taucher is the manual and plans. There are a lot of exploded views, but very little, if any verbiage, no mention of ballast at all, no measurements, nothing. No recommendations for
    batteries
    or any idea or mounts for the
    batteries
    . The hatch is a little bigger than a large cell phone, which gives very little room to access drive
    batteries
    , and it’s location leaves you no room between just aft of the motor and the rudder. In short, it’s frustrating, especially since it’s touted as an “easy build up” kit. So, halfway thru the build I shelved it before it became a Viking funeral boat. I built 2 more boats in the past year, the Neptun and a Springer tug, and I learned a lot from both of them, so I pulled the Taucher from it’s hiding spot and began anew. I will post some pics from last year, then I’ll post the most recent. I made some changes that would have been much,much easier earlier in the build, so they had to be done..so some of the pics are rather graphic and not for the squeamish🤣 Anyway, here we go, anybody with any good info on these kits feel free to chime in. Cash
    1 month ago by Cashrc
    Directory
    Darth Vader
    Bought from Maplins on a Christmas sale for a tenner including a reasonable 2 ch 27mhz radio (it sticks to one frequency) - cost was actually less than a spare set of
    batteries
    . Probably the fastest boat I have owned and probably the fastest at my old club. It has a strange underwater section - U shaped with deep triangular sections enclosing the U and a flexible 28mm 2 blade propeller - nick named Darth Vader by our newsletter/site editor the name stuck.
    17 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Hints on Ballast
    Hi Peter, Our boats are relatively small so we can usually trim and ballast them with useful "payload", i.e. decent size
    batteries
    for longer run times instead of "dead lead"! I don't think any of my ships (up to 1.5m) weigh more than about 5kg max. My Sea Scout is about 2.1kg. Runs full bore for around an hour on a 4Ah LiPo😊 WO Nerys is also absolutely right👍 My Sea Scout didn't need extra ballast, it trimmed perfectly with a 4Ah Lipo. My long thin naval ships (LoA to Beam ratio ca 10 to 1) and a lot of top hamper, do need ballasting, so I use one or more SLA
    batteries
    so I can patrol all day if I want to😊 Trimming is a doddle, just move the SLA(s) fore or aft to suit. That tug with 20kg ballast must be huge😮 I've seen huge (>2m!) models of container ships and tankers etc over here, which use car
    batteries
    for power thus reducing the need for dead ballast. Such ships are often built in two or three sections bolted together at double bulkheads with computer type D-shell electrical connections. Must take a lot of detailed planning. Doh my head aches 🤕 Ya pays yer money and takes yer choice! Cheers, Doug 😎
    20 days ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Ballast and underdeck
    So I finally decided how to ballast the Taucher and what with. Lead is hard to find now, best I’ve found is some 4 oz flat disc sinkers at Academy sports. Bought 2 pounds worth of those (all they had) and a couple of packages of copper coated BBS. I then went to a local home improvement store and picked up some short pieces of PVC pipe and end caps. I decided to make 2 pvc “weight bombs” for the ballast to the sides of the
    batteries
    , epoxy and bbs mixed for the aft ballast, and the sinkers to adjust after the bathtub ballast and amp draw test. The static draw in the water at WOT is about 4.5 amps, so I should be okay. I also cut the esc switch lead and added Deans micro connectors so I could mountthe switch deck side and disconnect when needed. At this point she’s seaworthy, minus the aft hatch at the rudder that somehow went MIA in the past few weeks. Cash
    22 days ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    Genesis 9000 problem
    I have recently had a second trial of my RTR Genesis 9000 which is a fast power boat. From the first trial it was clear that it was sitting rather low in the water at the stern. I have fitted two rather large 4500mAh
    batteries
    , one each side for balance. I tried reducing these to 2000mAh but the run time was rubbish. The boat moves well with the two larger
    batteries
    but I would like to alter the centre of gravity by moving the
    batteries
    much further forward. The problem is that there is foam inside the twin hull bow sections almost up to the opening. Is this performing a function or do you think I can remove it and place the
    batteries
    forwards. A second problem I have is that the rudder lifts upwards easily, I cannot decide if something has fallen off that should hold it in place. Does anybody know. I have added some pictures showing the foam and the rudder. Thanks. Peter.
    23 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Directory
    (Racing Boat) HUNTSMAN
    Bought on Ebay and was originally fitted with speed 900 type motor. I tried this set up on 12V but was disappointed as it did not come onto the plane. I planned to increase voltage to 18V from 3 x 6v
    batteries
    but not tried. I have now obtained a 3KW watercooled brushless motor and want to fit it with a 200A watercooled ESC. not yet tried as I need a motor mount. I will update later with results. (Motor: TURNIGY 4084 620KV) (ESC: 200A WATERCOOLED) (5/10) I have since put in the water and suffered a broken coupling. Looking for a suitable brushless coupling to M4 shaft.
    5 years ago by rigsby2012
    Response
    Re: early OS .30 powered patrol boat
    True Martin, I think I'm starting to get the hang of it now!😂 , mind you you couldn't do a lot with 27Mhz, no fancy ESCs, brushless motors, compact powerful
    batteries
    (LiPos) etc. Electric stuff was second to IC in those days. I entered this boat in an offshore 1hr powerboat endurance race and came 3rd out of around 12 boats (mostly IC and Gas boats,-won by a big gas racer) and only had to come in and fill up twice. Most of the other boats dropped out.
    30 days ago by jbkiwi
    Directory
    Fairey Huntsman 31
    It's a Precedent Huntsman 31, scale 1:8 and 47" long. My first purchase about 3 years ago when I first took an interest in the hobby. Well built, but heavy with the lead acid battery. Since taken that out along with the old RC gear, which is going to be replaced with modern kit, brushless motor and LiPo
    batteries
    for lighter weight and better performance.
    1 month ago by ChrisF
    Directory
    (Yacht) Koh-i-Noor
    I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary motor,
    batteries
    , sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy. (Motor: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10) I have now made and fitted a fin to the keel to imprve the handling of the yacht in higher winds. Robbe used to supply one as an accessory but not avialable now of course so I made my own using layers of lead sheet wrapped in plasticard then filled, sanded to shape, fitted and painted to match the hull/keel. Certainly improves the sailing and the yacht doesn't heel over in high winds or gusts as it did previously.
    2 years ago by ads90
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    "Perhaps DG is the best one to answer this -" Dunno why - my boats will sink like anyone else's if they fill up with water. Partly it's horses for courses - don't sail a boat with a low freeboard on the choppy side of the lake where the waves break over the bow. Fast boats which deflect water away might get away with it - slower displacement hulls where the water creeps up the side won't. Google 'Coandă effect' for a more technical description of the reason water sticks to surfaces. Tugs usually have heavy ballast and are more likely to have waves breaking over them than to ride up and over them. And sealing a deck effectively is going to depend very much on the way it's designed to fit on the hull... Adams of Adamcraft fame in the 1950s used to stretch clear plastic 'clingfilm' over the decks of his open boats (it was invented in '49!) to keep the water out, and you might find that trick useful if you have to have a removable deck. The clingfilm would go underneath the deck, of course... Sinking is less of a problem with EeZeBilts (though the Beaver with its heavy ballast would go down). They are made of many watertight compartments. If your boat doesn't have such flotation support, try using expanded foam in all the spare cavities. I do this in my boats, partly as a safety measure, partly to deaden the motor sound and stop the decks from 'drumming' and partly because I mount
    batteries
    and radio equipment in it. Here is a shot of a PT Boat with removable centre deck, which is happy in heavy waves - you can see the foam blocks...
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Sounds like a nightmare place to live if you have a hobby! I still use cellulose sanding sealer, but also have shellac type and use cellulose thinners for cleaning all my paints. I won't use water based crap for anything. All it does on wood stuff is raise the grain, the very thing you're trying to stop! I use spirit based wood stains too. If nothing else I love the smell! So does my wife. Model shops are shutting because anyone under 50 is likely to be so bloody useless that they wouldn't know balsa from styrene sheet, much less how to use it. So, they buy ready mades off the 'net. Ergo, another model shop goes bust. I'm no help because, being a tight wad, I make everything I can and buy only things like props and
    batteries
    . And I could, if pressed, make the props, too. Lithium I've found a little more difficult to file Martin
    2 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Martin Westquay's Piper Cub ;-)
    Hi Martin, thought you might have gone electric with the Cub. I recently made a repro of my 1975 48" Graupner PA18 Super Cub, and used a 28mm 1200kv brushless motor with a 3s 2200Mah LiPo. It has more power than you need by a country mile and is very quiet. Takes off with around 1/4 throttle. This TGY motor is one of the most powerful I have found for its' size, and I had one of the HK Cosmic Wind crappy 900mm glass models up to 91 mph with 2 x 2s 1800Mah 20c
    batteries
    strapped together (these motors take a 3s-4s)- 40c batts would have had it over the ton. Problem was, being yellow (the worst colour I've found for visibility on a sunny day) and being so small and fast, I actually lost it for a few secs while going vertical at high speed (sort of blended into the sky)! You don't need a huge electric to pull a model, roughly need one which will handle the same sized prop as the model would normally use with an IC motor, and pull the same max revs. The beauty of electrics is the lack of mess, damaged fingers, starting frustration, expensive glow plugs and noise, plus your plane will last longer not having oil all over it constantly (and because it has no smell your missus might let you bring it in the house!)😂. Depending on your finished weight, a motor of this nature might be all you need ( or a lower power 35 Diam motor). Just a thought. John B
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Transport System for model boats
    Yes - you use washers. Just one needed at the rear, because a pop rivet already has a rim. This is a common technique. Pick a light rivet and it won't compress the plastic much. For the handle bolts I use a little 4mm spacer, as the web page shows. I use these for EeZeBilts, which are typically light - but the biggest one I have carries nearly 20kg, with spare
    batteries
    and radio and everything inside. A kid can sit on them - indeed, I have done so on occasions. You use the 4mm thickness, but if you really want to use them as seats you would probably be better off with 6mm. Of course, if you wish you can build a wooden frame inside if you want to carry something really heavy. What I like is the cost. You can get 5 sheets of 8ftx4ft on ebay for less than £50 - that's £10 per sheet with free delivery. If you go to your nearest stockist (look for 'twinflute') and carry them away they will probably be £5 per sheet. And you can typically get 4 boxes out of a sheet. The cost of a strap handle and some clasps is minimal (a few quid on ebay), so you are looking at a custom-sized box for a fiver or less. Means that you can box ALL your boats at low cost, and then stack them away under beds or out in the shed. I must have a dozen or so of these piled on top of each other... and they are very light, so you are not carrying any extra weight apart from the boat... Incidentally, I've standardised on these toggle clips - they seem to work the best... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Case-Box-Stainless-Steel-Spring-Loaded-Toggle-Latch-Catch-Clip-6pcs-Y6U9/323801617239?hash=item4b64149357:g:3S0AAOSwhMJc004r
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Transport System for model boats
    I bought two of these, they where perfect for my 4 foot fireboat, and 4 foot Huntsman. They are 700 size rc helicpter boxes, and are ideal for storage in the shed, garage etc. They fit in an estate car, and all the extra parafanalia like
    batteries
    , tools etc goes in. I was lucky to find these two reduced as they had damage. I swopped the small useless wheels and added some internal foam Now, I might be selling one, as the 4 foot fireboat has gone, if I decide to sell one Ill post here first!
    2 months ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    Transport System for model boats
    Hi Hilro, Funny this should crop up now😉 This is what I bought for this purpose just this week! Has nice big wide wheels so it should go anywhere😊 Folds up so it doesn't fill the boot (That's Trunk for U guys over the pond!) Three of my ships are a tic longer than 127cm so I'll make cradle ends to Velcro inside the basket for them. Otherwise all my boats and ships will fit inside with their stands. Plus "all the gear!; tools, RC and
    batteries
    etc. (Maybe also a bottle of summat and sandwiches!) Cheers, Doug 😎 https://www.amazon.de/HOLISTAR-Handwagen-Bollerwagen-Transportwagen-Seitentasche/dp/B07SKHYL8Q/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&keywords=Holistar&language=en_GB&qid=1564189637&s=gateway&sr=8-11
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    motor rotation indication
    Can any body help with a circuit that indicates by an LED that the motor is running, The boat has 7.2 NimH
    batteries
    driving a brushed motor (4.5V - 12v) through a 15 amp viper ECS and the radio is a Hobby King 5 channel Turnigy 5X 5Ch Mini Transmitter and Receiver (Mode 2)
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Problem with Skysport 4 transmitter TV4F
    Hi John, " Due to the fact that we don't charge these often, is this one of the reasons that the cells are prone to deteriorating?" Fraid so John 🤔 I'm sure we have all had this problem some time or other. Not sure what you mean by 'slow drain' but I'm assuming that your TX
    batteries
    are NiMh. NiMh
    batteries
    have an irritating habit of self discharging at a rate of about 1% of capacity per day. So if we ignore them for 3 months or so they will go flat or even into so called Deep Discharge with cell voltages of 1V or less. At this point chemical changes take place which are irreversible and create a higher resistance in the cell. The chemical change prevents it from taking charge properly and what it does take is quickly dissipated in the increased cell internal resistance when placed under load. So the cell voltage collapses ☹️ NiMh cells should not be discharged below 1.1V. If they haven't been used for a while it is recommended to cycle them through 2 or 3 discharge-charge cycles to 'recondition' them. This helps to reduce the infamous Memory Effect as well. This procedure is also recommended to condition new
    batteries
    . Any half decent modern charger should include this cycling function. Glad to hear things seem to be working now 👍 Look forward to the Sunday trials report. Cheers, Doug 👍
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Problem with Skysport 4 transmitter TV4F
    Hi there Doug sorry for the delay in replying, your knowledge and replies are much appreciated. What I have been doing the last day and a bit is, going through my transmitters and checking all their
    batteries
    and what I have found is that I have two which are 'duff' and they are the slow drain type. Its got me thinking. Due to the fact that we don't charge these often, is this one of the reasons that the cells are prone to deteriorating? Be interesting to see if anyone else has had this problem. I am going to go back to the standard battery pack for the transmitters because I had 2 old ones in the drawer and they have charged straight up and replaced the one in the 4 channel transmitter that was duff and everything seems hunky dory now, or , seems that way - so it will be a test on Sunday to see if I get a greater range :-) john
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Blog
    Andrea Gail continued
    Got around to the railings & some of the crane hardware . Haven't done a lot other than wiring up all the electronics had to use a older transmitter as the newer 2.4 g transmitters don't have servo reverse switch's my rudder was backward's . Made up two battery boxes for 5 AA rechargeable
    batteries
    to make 6 volts used a holder for 4 & added a single holder for the 5th battery
    2 months ago by GARTH
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Q
    Hi Martin, I've filled it up to the top with a syringe but the small bubbles are good for an indicator as you can't see any movement otherwise. I could just make a small header tank, (or even a bit of the large silicon tube mounted vertically on a T and it would bleed itself. I'll see if it gets hot, and if so I'll probably make a small tank for expansion so it doesn't pop the hoses off. There is good circulation all round so hopefully it won't be an issue, I certainly won't be racing it, (it's getting heavier by the minute - coming up on 6lbs and with paint and
    batteries
    probably a shade over.) It will need the weight to make it sit properly as the hull was only about 1 3/4 lbs . It will be interesting to see how these motors perform, these are 6v 45T but I can always go to 60T or 12v for more grunt. The combinations are endless!
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 36'' Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.
    "everything has been converted to electric long ago" Know what you mean John. I've still got a 5ltr canister of pepped up glow fuel kicking about in the cellar. Probably degenerated into uselessness by now🤔 Maybe I'll stick in the car or use it to start the barby😊 Re Premium line- Belfast wasn't so bad, but had the same crappy plastic props held on with grub screws. So she's getting threaded shafts and brass props from Raboesch 😉 On Graf Spee though I noticed a lot of resin casting faults, evidence of air bubbles and smudged detail, as well as over / under-spray in the painting and lifting of the wooden decks. Had to inject liquid CA glue round the edges to stop it peeling ☹️😠 Best thing on both ships were the faultless hulls with double skinning!😉 One thing surprised me with Belfast though- the recommended SLA
    batteries
    don't fit! I couldn't get them in any which way 🤔 Not to worry, they go in my 1:72 destroyer with ease 😊 BTW I prefer lapsang souchong 😋
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build P
    Trial fitting all the plumbing for the heat exchanger to make sure coamings will still fit. Small pump behind port motor is the circulation pump and the other is the raw water pump. Also fitted the ESCs and made the battery holders. would have liked the
    batteries
    and pumps nearer the stern, but not enough room under the floors. May have to put a few sinkers in the stern to get the WL correct. That can come at the end once everything else is done, (paint etc) Rudder system is also temporarily hooked up and works fine. Will remove and test water system shortly. Using 6mm silicone hose for the raw water pump for better flow. As can be seen, everything tucks away quite nicely out of sight, (was sort of like death by a thousand cuts,- fitted by a thousand slots!) some pretty close fits here and there. could have done without the heat exchanger but I don't do things the easy way. Got to try fitting a smoke machine in somewhere so I can have smoke coming out the exhausts with the water (more tubes, more bits!) and a sound unit! Might be pushing it, but I managed to fit twin units on the HSL and that's a lot narrower. Might be a rack system yet, plenty of room upwards in the cabin. Don't really want to put anything in the wheel house, just wheel, instruments etc.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    quite a while since last update
    it been quite a while since the last update, holidays, work, sun shine etc all got in the way we have done some amount of work on the model in past few months mostly around the running gear and some electrics Made up a platform on which all of the main electric components will sit on, these include the 2
    batteries
    (6 volt for the steam and lighting) 7.2v for the motor. also on the platform will be the smoke/steam generator, motor, ESC, receiver and at the back the Servo for the rudder. platform made out of MDF and sealed up and then re-enforced with wood strips before fixing the platform inside the huil (permanent fixing) did a "Bath" test to add ballast to the hull as you would imagine that it rides high without anything expect for the platform/
    batteries
    and paddles. used Car wheel weights as ballast as you can go done to the nearest gram with those as well as stick on on where needed. once ballasted (not fully as need to put superstructure and deck fittings on before the final a ballast glues (epoxy) the platform, into place (with the ballast under it) we can still put extra to the sides and bow/stern worked out where the Servo is going to go, fitted that to the rear of the platform and used 2 rods to goto the rudder arm added 3 switches to a small shelf on the platform, these will be the main ESC/Motor Power switch, one switch for the steam and 1 for the lights. Also ensured we can get to the 2 battery leads fore charging Added the Navigation lights (and wiring) to the wheel boxes as well as wiring up the small set of lights we have in the engine cover. as we are looking at a removable deck (so the whole thing comes off rather then just sections of the deck)on it if we need to get to the stuff like battery/motor etc we can. looking for a solution pointed me to look at the metal clips that are used to hold car speakers into place in car doors etc, basically a slide on spring clip with a hole one side and a grooved hole the other to screw into. drilled the hole in the deck where needed (8 holes in the main deck and 2 in the stern for the rudder area.) drilled holes in the GRP platform on which the deck rests, clipped the metal clips to the hull/desk rest, i have glued some small metal washers to the top of the deck to protect it then we can basically screw the deck to the hull (and remove) without damaging the deck or hull and we are screwing into metal clips and and pulling the deck to the metal clips next thing to do is look at fixing the wheel boxes to the deck, the a way of fixing (but being ale to remove) the house house if needed. then lights and wiring of as we are looking at getting lights to the wheel house as well as a few other places at the same time putting other the deck fittings (Mast, work/life boats) etc once all that done a final ballast, tighten all of the various bolts/screens, charge battery and test sailing (could take a while as working on this slowly)
    2 months ago by barryskeates
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi all, having got closer to getting my gear all up and running than I have in many a year, I read that the DX5e (my Tx which Doug kindly mended) can have a dodgy slide switch for on/off and the
    batteries
    don't make good contact in the back. Now I found that only one set of my rechargeable Nimhs will even fit the battery tray. How the hell can they have got it that wrong? Push the last cell in and the others pop out. If you force it, it can cause a brownout as the Tx. stops working. Would it make sense to replace the slide switch and make the
    batteries
    into a pack which plugs into something soldered into the insides. Someone suggested that rechargeables are no good anyway as they're lower voltage than dry cells! What to do? I am about to use this in an aeroplane! Martin
    3 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Not surprised Michael. Like I said I only bought it cos I have a large collection of
    batteries
    of all sorts of types and sizes and I wanted to be able to take better care of them. The Polaron stores parameters for the various types and has a USB data port to export the results to the PC. Still learning how to use that to create a Battery Data Log 😉 You should be able to find one of the little Robbe or Graupner jobs on the Fleabay, or there's always Turnigy & C. Happy charging, cheers, Doug 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Help needed please, I’m not an electrics man I purchased this charger and two battery packs about 6 months ago and It’s been in the box ever since. And I am now getting round to sorting the electrics on my crash tender. however reading the forum article on “
    batteries
    in a DX5e” I am now concerned that the
    batteries
    are in trouble. I Have the manual but to honest I can’t make any sense of the particular situation I have eg I have checked the output voltage on each battery not under any load and they both read 9.5v. What do I do next – discharge - charge – for how long etc Thanks⚡
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Michael, I had to make up adaptor leads as well for my bigger NiMhs; one for Tamiya and one for XT60s. The third pin on the socket has no connection. The manufacturer of these gizmos seems to assume that they will only be used for RX
    batteries
    !🤔 "These
    batteries
    will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together? " If you mean all connected in parallel - I'm afraid not🤔 The charger controller would get awfully confused! As it has to be able to read the individual pack voltages in order to control the process and know when to stop discharging and start charging. To cycle both
    batteries
    simultaneously you need a two port charger. Something like the one in attached pic. I also recently acquired a Graupner Polaron EX two port charger. https://www.graupner.com/Polaron-EX-charger-red/S2011.R/ More expensive (a lot!) but it can also do a lot more for your battery management. You can programme and store several different types and capacities of
    batteries
    ; SLA, NiMh, LiPo, LiFe etc and set all necessary parameters; number of cycles, discharge current, charge current, stop criteria, timer etc. A selectable tabular or graphic display shows you how the cycle is progressing and the status of the battery. It will also tell you the internal resistance of the battery to give you an idea of it's quality and suitability for high current applications😉 Does LiPos and SLAs as well. I just bought the two port DC only version without mains input cos I already had a 13.8V 17A supply kicking about doin' nowt! You can also hang the charger on a 12V SLa or car battery. As I have a considerable number of LiPos and NiMhs for various purposes, and having had sad and costly experiences in the past with failed
    batteries
    , I considered it a reasonable investment to get the most out of my
    batteries
    ! Cheers, Doug
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Doug thanks for that most useful. I have the capacity meter but no lead from battery to meter , I have the servo plugs and xt60 plugs/sockets plus crimping tool & wire. I am capable of producing the lead so that's OK, BUT I notice that the NiMh socket on the meter has tree pins but the lead I need to make has only 2 wires + & -. looking at your pics I can see the + is to the centre pin and - to an outside pin, I made the lead up and it works OK giving reading on both
    batteries
    (see pic) so what next - discharge/charge 3 times? These
    batteries
    will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together?
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Re: Graupner Optimist 1978
    It's very relaxing Martin, if you are not in a powerboat mood, just sit in your chair and know that the only battery you have to worry about just has to power a couple of servos,(winch and rudder) no motors or drive shafts or ESCs to worry about, and you can pretty much stay out there all day if you have good TX
    batteries
    , and your rec is powered by a UBEC from your main battery. I've sailed full sized small boats (biggest was an 18ft 'A' class cat ) since I was 12yrs old (54yrs) so it's just a miniature extension of that. I still have 2 small yachts (12ft and 15ft) and a 12ft dinghy with a 15hp motor for fishing, all rebuilt (the dinghy and 12 footer I got for free) but I'm finding that every time I go out now I come back covered in bruises, (clumsy old man syndrome) Here's a short video of a bit of my last 22km run in the dinghy to an island just up the coast from where I live. I took advantage of a brilliant day! (we don't get them that calm too often) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKSBjMllKQg John B
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Well, I took the dry cells to the club and had to prove to them that rechargeables do NOT fit a DX5e, but Duracell dry cells did. They were all astonished having called me a Luddite for not having rechargeables, even though I've been around rechargeable AAs for ages as my digital workshop radio uses them, but even that struggles to accommodate just 2 of my many sets, the others being far too large to fit comfortably., Several flyers brought me their
    batteries
    and none would fit my Tx. Unfortunately there is no socket to plug a made up pack in either. So, Duracells it is. Doug, I still had the post-it note on the Tx. from you and one wag there said, "Oh, Doug in Munich? We were at different schools together!" Took the others quite a while to twig what he'd actually said! Martin
    2 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Ah, well - I only came in half-way through the conversation, when the issue was boat plan access. Some comments on your original post: 1 - You want reliability in a remote control link. So any issue that is actually causing a reliability problem should be addressed. 2 - People may comment that some designs or components are unreliable. This may or may not be true for your case. It's worth checking anything that someone suggests may be unreliable, but not changing it unless you have good evidence that it is. 3 - People have complained about the use of individual
    batteries
    (rechargeable or not) in a radio control, on the grounds that each individual battery clip connection is a source of possible failure. Rather depends on how clean you keep them, and how springy they are... 4 - people often discuss rechargeable vs dry-cell issues. There are many possible variations and considerations, so everyone can support their own preference. Initial nominal voltage is not really an issue, as
    batteries
    provide a range of voltages as they run through their discharge cycle. More important is the battery 'life', which is something you need to find out for your own particular system/battery/usage mix. 5 - One good thing about dry
    batteries
    is that you can buy fresh ones at short notice, so you can use them immediately. One good thing about rechargeables is that they (usually) have more amp-hours and a flatter discharge curve. But you have to care for them a bit, and make sure they are charged before use... see the reference below. I tend to think that for occasional use, and use at short notice, dry
    batteries
    are useful. But for regular continual use rechargables win out. Incidentally, there is a newish battery design (Sony Eneloop and Vapex Instant) which offers very low self-discharge. I've tried them and it's true. You can charge them up, put them away and use them a year later. As good as dry
    batteries
    . But, of course, they cost... https://www.powerstream.com/AA-tests.htm
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    I think this post has lost its point. Gone from model boats and
    batteries
    via model shops to the wherefore and why of social media!
    2 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Mike, 1. You don't need that adapter, aka Balancer Board. Primarily for LiPo
    batteries
    so that the charger can measure individual cell voltages and adjust them accordingly so that they are all the same +/- 100mV or so. So called balancing. Unless you have a rare breed of NiMh with a balancer cable attached you don't need this. 2. 9.5V for an 8 cell NiMh (nominal 9.6) sounds good for new
    batteries
    . Nevertheless, I recommend you get a capacity meter, see pic lower battery is a new 4.8V NiMh, upper a LiPo, which will tell you the 'true' state of the battery. For a new, unused NiMh I would expect a capacity of around 40%. Consensus says new NiMh packs should be cycled 3 or 4 times through a discharge / charge cycle to condition them for use and minimise the dreaded 'Memory Effect'. Set the discharge current to no more than 1Amp, charge current 0.5A (500mA) and charge for 11 hours for your 5000mAh packs. The charger should take care or the timing. It should also gradually reduce the charge current as the battery approaches full charge. The charger should detect Full Charge by a process known as Delta Peak; when fully charged the battery reaches a Peak voltage. If you continue charging the battery becomes 'overcharged' and the voltage dips slightly, the Delta in the Peak voltage😉. A good charger should detect this and switch off. Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi Doug, had the slide sw problem with my new 9XR and replaced it with a German made sw (I ordered a few for spares as well.) It also had a dodgey throttle pot which I replaced as well and no further probs. Same problem at an earlier time with my Acoms FM TX and replaced that with a toggle sw . They use the slide switches obviously for safety reasons so you won't get neck straps etc caught and accidently turn off the TX (same as with external power switches on planes, which should be set with ON towards the tail, so as when you are releasing the plane the switch won't be knocked to OFF. Don't know why they don't just recess a good toggle switch,- much more positive connection. I had a quick look at DX TXs and a number of people have converted them to LiPos and have said that there is an option in the set up programme in DX6 on, to change the power input to LiPo. Have you heard of that ? not that I'm ever going to own a DX as I have enough TXs but it sounded interesting. Someone mentioned they don't like over 6.4v and start doing strange things. I never bought one due to the number of planes that were lost to 'brown-outs in the earlier ones,- you couldn't give them away here!. Now for something entirely different- interesting item on JRs demise and attempted recovery of face .http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/jr-radio-spektrum-radios-116/11645243-jr-products-history-date.html I've used LiFe 3s 1800ma
    batteries
    in my old FM Futaba Conquest 5ch TXs plus my 9X (Rhino 1500ma) and 9XR(with JR module) and they have been fantastic. While a bit down on voltage I have no probs flying to max LOS and the voltage hardly changes. I've had the 3 Zippys plus the Rhino 1500ma (in the 9X) since 2010 and they are still going strong. If you can fit them in a TX and it will function on a slightly lesser voltage I would recommend fitting them (or whatever LiFe will fit space- and voltage wise. ) No More black wire form NiCads either!. I also have a LiPo TX pack for my Futaba 6ex which I've yet to use, (original NiCad still ok after 9yrs, -my original Futaba 'brown box'TXs LiPos lasted 15 yrs!- Jap quality.) Mind you, had to replace the wiring up to the switch. I use NiMH
    batteries
    in my 2 HK 6 DF TXs and 6x with no range problems at all and both are made for std AA
    batteries
    . Sounds like the DX is very voltage specific but there must be something better that can be fitted. (once had a big 9.8v car NiCad clamped to the outside back cover of my old Futaba. BTW, I notice you're holding that fish very close to the camera ???!!
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi Martin, 37% residual charge for a LiPo is fine 👍 I use 30% as a bottom limit. "I didn't know about the charge rate so left it at 0.2A. It's a 2200 3S" 200mA is always a good safe starting point.👍 Yep, you're dead right 👍 11 hours charge is correct, assuming that the battery was dead flat at the start. Which it obviously wasn't (37% charge left). But the charger should recognise that and adjust the time accordingly. 500mA is also safe, but NEVER more than 1A. You may see 'Fast charge' LiPos advertised as 10C, 20C or even more. Meaning charging at 10 or 20 times the capacity in AH as Amps. So for your battery that would mean a charge current of 22 or 44A 😮💥 At the very least the battery would get very hot, may 'puff out', which drastically shortens it's useful life, or at worst cause it to explode💥🔥 Similarly advertised discharge rates I've seen of up to 50C are nonsense. Consider a 5000mAH battery = 5Ah. I.e. it can provide 5A for one hour (theoretically 'in this the most perfect of all possible worlds'😁) A discharge rate of 50C would mean 50*5 = 250A😮 The theoretical discharge time (before the battery departs for Valhalla) would be 5/250 hours. = 72 seconds. After that buy a new battery☹️, and model if it burst into flames.☹️ So where does that getcha? Thus it becomes obvious that such figures are nothing more than marketing gimmicks. Buyer beware! The NiMHs are a bit more critical as far as maintenance is concerned. As I'm sure I mentioned before, they have a self-discharge rate of around 1% per day. So if you leave an NiMH battery alone for 3 months it has very likely joined the Dodos. At the very least it will never be able to take a full charge again, due to irreversible chemical changes. So called 'Deep discharge'. Here endeth the epistle to the Wisbech Luddites for tonight 😁 BTW: thought you were going to print all this out the last time we discussed it, as reminder for the winter maintenance? Considering the prices of
    batteries
    it's worth a little effort to keep 'em happy. Cheers, Doug 😎 Thinks! This is all stuff I was considering adding to the 'How Tos' on
    batteries
    , when I can get A Round Tuit! BTW: apropos capacity! Look for
    batteries
    which are marked with an IEC standard against which the quoted capacity has been measured. Otherwise it's a bit of a Pig in Poke business. Don't just buy the cheapest on offer, you'll most likely be disappointed. Go for the lowest offer available for a well known manufacturer who also provides specs and the standards adhered to. I know almost all
    batteries
    seem to be made in China these days. But many are also made there for well known western brand names to strict specifications. Cheapo 'No Names'? Who knows?
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Tornado ESC and Lipo's
    I have been given a new Tornado 50 amp Marine ESC and although it says on it for use with nicad or NIMH
    batteries
    , I'm told that it can be used with a 2s lipo. Is this correct, as I prefer to be safe than sorry? Thanks in advance🙄
    3 months ago by rossiter
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    "Straighten up and fly right, by Sammy Davis Junior, the best entertainer the world has ever seen" I almost agree Martin👍 But SDJ didn't write it. Nat King Cole and Irving Mills did in 1943 I think. But Sammy did a good cover on his 1965 'Nat King Cole Songbook album. I like the version (Major!) Glenn Miller arranged for the Big Band and played with his Army Air Corps Band in London during the war. Somewhere I've still got copies of 'The Secret Recordings' made during those concerts which were broadcast to the troops after D-Day and collated by the late great Alan Dell. Great stuff. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW I hope that during the winter you diligently checked and charged all your
    batteries
    , Lipo or especially NiMH??? As we discussed back then😉
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Hi Martin, Save your money, time and effort! Just like my DX6 your TX needs 6V from Alkaline
    batteries
    . To get 6V from NiMH you'll need 5 cells, which you haven't got a cat in hells chance of squishing in. A fully charged 4 cell pack may show up to around 5.6V OFF LOAD. So you start around half a volt short in the first place. Shortly after a load is applied the cell voltages will drop to their nominal 1.2V. Giving 4.8V for the TX. This is roughly the voltage of 4 nearly flat alkaline cells. 2000mAH cells have been recommended. Good quality Alkaline cells made to the IEC standard, such as Varta or Duracell, have a capacity of around 2500mAH. Make sure you get the Heavy Duty version, i.e. for cameras. These will last for ages, unless you forget to turn it off 😉 When I tested your TX the switch was perfectly OK and I don't think you can get a toggle switch in without major surgery anyway. I'm not fan of slide switches either, they are always the first thing I have to replace in Gisela's garden lights and fountain pumps etc, usually due to corrosion. But considering the low usage, without getting wet (unless you fall in the pond with it😮), it will have in your TX it shouldn't be a problem. The reason your rechargeables kept popping out is that many of them are a fraction larger than the alkalines. I've had this problem with several devices. I use alkaline in my DX6 and my Turnigy clone. No problems. The only TX I use NiMH in is an old Graupner MC-10, 40Megs for my submarines. But it was designed for use with a 9.6V pack in the first place and has a charging socket. Does your DX5E have a charging socket? No! Neither does my DX6. Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    batteries
    in a DX5e
    Check on Hobby king, they may have a low discharge LiPo pack or a LiFe pack specially made to go straight in (might have to remove the springs to fit it). Slightly lower voltage but they will keep a steady voltage in the safe range for months of use (depending on use) They leave individual cells for dead. If the switch gives the slightest hint of a glitch change it for the best quality one you can find, (ie , if you ever have to switch the radio on-off-on a couple of times to get it going, change the switch!) You might investigate using a 1700 Mah LiFe 6.6v receiver pack with a UBEC set to 5v (the type with voltage jumper plugs) if you could fit it in. Had a quick look and you don't have a lot of choice. Perhaps you could buy 4 NiMh solder tab 2000 mAh
    batteries
    and make your own pack to fit (you'll need the correct charger)
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Tornado ESC and Lipo's
    Volts are volts. As are amps. So long as you stay within the specified power/volt rating for the ESC, it will work if the power comes from zinc-carbon
    batteries
    , Lipos, a lead-acid accumulator or a power supply running off the mains. Lipos are max 4.2v per cell, so I guess that ESC has a rating of 12V. 2s would be 8.4v...
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer


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