Forum

powered winches for pusher tug.

I wanted to be able to attach a barge to the bow pusher posts of my Egrete Pusher tug. BUT did not want to simply use a couple of bits of elasticated rope, would not really look "right" or would be prone to failure. So after a bit of searching around I found a nice little geared motor set/kit In Maplins, think It was only A£9.99 or less, I know Is wasn't much. Anyway, It was possible to swap teh gears about a bit till I got the speed of the winch drum to a nice slow pace, so not to grab at the winch cables too quickly and cause problems. The motor assembly comes with Its own mounting plate, so nice and easy to mount Inside the winch house of the pusher tug, the cables ran through the actual cable pipes through the forward bulkhead. All I had to do was make sure that the actual "tow posts" on the barge were bonded deep In to the hull of the barge, to take the load, especially when turning. The motor operates on 3v so I just used a maplins twin AA pack, and wired up a couple of micro switches on top of a normal servo. So by using one channel of the transmitter, I now had "in/out" control over the winch via one of the joysticks.

12 years ago by Gregg

Blog

Krick Police Launch

I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

LiPo batteries

Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Blog

Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug

Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. mods and improvements.

Be careful with all that wiring JB - you might start getting smoke for the wrong reason ...... Seriously she's looking good but you need to get on with another project before you sink her with all the extra weight.............. Did the same with the Police Boat so there's a large speaker fitment behind the stern doors and a siren unit with 9v stolen from my childs bike plus an old fashioned flasher unit for the blue light - all in the superstructure - made her top heavy and started to wallow instead of planing..........all history now except the LED flasher..........

4 years ago by redpmg

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. mods and improvements.

Hi Doug, - rats nest indeed! 😂 Thanks for the nice comment BTW, I do actually have ID tags (masking tape on wires),- you can't see most of them as they are hidden behind the felt lining and under the deck and floor boards. I also use male and female JST plugs reversed when 2 connections are close together. Main power into systems comes from each , and splits into a number of JST connectors which supply each particular unit. It's hard to get so many wires neat and tidy in a limited space, as they don't always exit or enter the units in a convenient direction, and some don't bend all that well. Short of cutting all the wires off and substituting my own, I just do the best to fit them as they come. Looks messy but when you are trying to fit 2 ESCs, 2 sound units,(which have to be lifted out while wired, to get at batteries) a water pump, 2 1800 mAh LiPos, 2 remote switches, a monitor, 2 shaft oiler reservoirs and a UBEC and associated wiring (including light feed wiring to cabin top) into a space of around 200x200x100mm it's bound to get messy! A problem is finding nice quality flexible silicone wire (especially on JST plugs) which bends nicely round things. Most wire products you get on line are stiff poor quality stuff, and you don't know what type it will be till you get it. Main thing is that it all works and you can't see it with the top on😁😊 Re- the smoke,- I have 3 Heng Long smokers (one of which I've modded (see vid) and am experimenting with ways of making them compact, (been done on You Tube with a smaller fan than I used (in place of original pump) stuck directly to the side of the smoker tank. The smokers work really well, - just have to reduce the size (maybe a small motor in a tube with a propeller to replace the pump) Hard part is finding smoke which is 'waterproof' as it has to come out with the exhaust water. Usual baby oil smoke just disappears and doesn't travel well down tubes, (even without water) so the unit needs to be close to the exit with a non oily smoke. Perhaps an incense stick or cigarette in a tube?😀😊 JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. mods and improvements.

Due to rubbish weather at the moment delaying the launching, I thought I'd fit fans to the ESCs, as I noticed them getting slightly warm during testing. Fans (5v) now come on with the cooling pump through a 5v UBEC, and powered by the same 2s 1800Ma LiPo as the pump. Also made a few brass tube fittings to divert some of the cooling water to some new side outlets (vintage 'Frog' fittings from my collection). Another small refinement was to fit mahogany anchor chain/ warp rubbers at the forward fairleads. Have also fitted a monitor/alarm which is visible for checking through the rear cabin window. If it keeps raining and the wind keeps up I might think of something else to do to it. It's already a plumber and electricians nightmare! (I want smoke but I've run out of room! (I'm working on that though.

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

York model boat club regatta

Here we are, a year later and we went again to the York model boat regatta at Laytham Camping and Caravan Park. It was time to give my first boat its maiden voyage. You may have seen the boat in my harbour, the Freeman 22 Norfolk broads’ cruiser which now belongs to my grandson. I managed to finish it for his 6th birthday hence the name (Tyler JWT 6). It sailed very well and achieved a realistic speed, turned well and reversed-turned very quickly. I am going to make some adjustments to its weight distribution because although built to specification I felt it sailed too low in the water and slightly bow heavy. So the solution is to remove one of the 6 cell NiMh batteries which is only there to balance the weight, the powering single will now be located in a central position slightly towards the stern. I’m now looking to join this club which has been really welcoming in a fantastic location. PS hopefully video to follow

4 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Fast attack craft

".....it seemed to generalise without mentioning the the decisive parameters involved, including cost difference!..." Um. Tricky to cover everything, in a 4 sentence comment! There seems to be a grave shortage of balanced advice in all aspects of modern life - though no shortage of advice per se at all! In a field where technological change is proceeding it is even harder to gather a useful view. Comparisons which were true one year are incorrect the next, and I suggest that it would be very useful to update any advice on the board which covers batteries.... Luckily there is one reasonably independent place we can go for a balanced view - the market. Although it is not perfectly unbiased, we can deduce that if some technologies are surviving in that marketplace there must be a demand for them, and hence that these technologies are likely to be the best available ones for some specific task. We only need to determine what that is. As a quick example, if you look at a major UK supplier to the model hobby - Component Shop - you will find available: NiMH - both standard and low self-discharge LiPo LiFe Lead Acid (sealed) Alkaline (probably Manganese) Silver Oxide All of these will be the 'best choice' for some application. Our interest is probably mainly with the first four. There are many features to take into account. The energy capacity that the contains is one common figure, usually measured in amp-hours, but most people do not realise that that is only correct for a particular delivery rate. To make a motor go fast you need a with a high current delivery rate - able to put out a lot of amps over a short time. Dry batteries, for instance, do not usually have a high delivery rate - hence the poor performance available to us in the 1960s! My top-of-my-head generalisations are below, though I am sure exceptions can be found in all cases! 'Robust' refers to a mix of physical strength and resistance to misuse, such as over-charging or excessive drain. I will try to use the words 'capacity' for the amount of energy stored in a , and 'delivery' for the maximum rate at which that energy can be released... SLA Very robust. Cheapest for high amp-hour capacity at 6 and 12V. Can do high delivery as well, Very heavy. Use for displacement boats, where the ballast weight is a positive benefit. Can do heavy discharge as well, but many small SLAs are designed for emergency equipment use, and expect to support a light discharge over 10-20 hours. NiMH Fairly robust. Quite cheap for medium amp-hour delivery, and reasonable capacity. Low self-discharge costs are dropping and that technology seems to be expanding in the market, though they tend to be low amp delivery types. Some types can compete with Lipos for high amp delivery in the 30-40A range. Fairly heavy. Make sure that you buy a high-delivery type if that's what you need for motors. Low self-discharge types are good for emergency flashlights and RC transmitter/receivers... LiPo - Less robust. Best current choice for high amp delivery with low weight. Only readily-available type offering current delivery in the 100+ Amps range. Light, and available in very small sizes. More expensive than NiMH, high capacity very much more, and you need a special charger, though these can be quite cheap nowadays. You should really be using a charger optimised to your type anyway. Remember that each LiPo cell is 3-4V, not 1.2V... LiFE - Similar to LiPo, but more robust. Slightly lower voltage, but very flat volt delivery. Typical current delivery in the 30A range rather than 100+. More expensive than LiPo at the moment, but may displace them eventually. LiPos are essential if you are using a very high consumption motor - perhaps a racing boat? But when using such currents you usually require cooling systems and quite a specialist drive train. Brushless motors can take high currents, so LiPos are often associated with them, but you can use any with any motor if you want - just so long at it delivers the amps! There is no reason why you should not use brushless with SLAs, or LiPos on a low-drain application - though a LiPo may be more expensive than you need for that... NiMH are perfectly capable of making a boat plane - IF you ensure that the max amp delivery is adequate. You can, for instance, buy NiMh batteries designed for wireless phones with max output 500mA or less - these will disappoint you if you try to use them for motor power! A handy rule of thumb for estimating optimum discharge is to look at the capacity in Amp-hours. A low-drain is probably designed to put that out over 20 hours, so divide the Ah by 20 to get an estimate of optimum current draw. A high-drain is usually designed to output over 1 hour - so divide the Ah by 1 to get optimum amps. That's only a generality, of course, and the spec sheet is the definitive place to look... "...more likely that HE had shares in a LiPo company to be able to afford them back then..." When it comes to electrical equipment I do have connections. 😊 If you think LiPos were expensive in the 2000s, you should try buying NiCad pen cells in the 1960s. Probably the most unusual I have used was a pack of saline/manganese oxide cells from ex-RAF life jackets, where the was open to the water underneath the boat and you could speed it up by scattering salt in front of it....

4 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Mtronics ESC's

I too have had problems with mtronics esc, the problem is voltage not draw. The mtronics standard editions don't like over 12volts (and we all know that a fully charged 12 volt is over 12volts) I was directed to Mack Products in New Jersey USA and procured an esc especially designed for nominal 12volt car powered model boats. here is a link to the whole discussion: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3262185-ESC-suggestions-Tug-boat good luck STEVE

4 years ago by srama

Forum

Fast attack craft

RE "I would use brushless, but avoid Lipos in less there was a good reason for them. Quite true Doug, I still have the first Zippy Flightmax 5s 20c LiPo I bought (02.06.2010) and it still balances after all this time, (just pulled it out of the archive and it's reading 3.92-3.91- 3.92-3.90.3.92 in storage mode) Doesn't have much guts any more but is perfectly usable in a boat. I have a few newer 4s 40c discharge batteries which have puffed/gassed, but are still usable with care ( don't suck more than 40A for too long, cool them straight away - always have an Esky with bagged ice handy if running batteries at high drain and getting them hot) At home and you're testing, if they get quite hot, just put them in the fridge to cool down. I have even forgotten and frozen them solid in the freezer, (takes a while to get power back while they warm up,- bit like frozen frogs!) If you have any that puff badly or get very hot constantly for no reason, ditch them. Safest way to do this is to make up a bucket of very salty water outside and drop the in to discharge it (you will see the leads bubbling,) next day, (if all activity has stopped), take it out in the middle of the garden (making sure the wind is blowing towards open space- Not your neighbors just in case as if it does smoke,- it's nasty stuff!) and ram a large garden fork or 4"nail right through it to make sure all the charge has gone and it's safe to dispose of (I still leave them outside in a tin for a few months just to be extra sure) Do Not Do This Without Discharging In The Bucket First !!! as once they start you can't put them out, as it's a chemical reaction, and you will have so much nasty smoke you won't believe it !!!), not to mention a few thousand degrees of heat and flames!. Now go out and buy a new and look after it properly ie, using correct charging, discharging and storage charging, and it should last for years, - especially in boats, as unless used in racing boats, the discharge for the average brushed/ brushless scale boat is nothing compared to planes. JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Fast attack craft

"I would use brushless, but avoid Lipos in less there was a good reason for them. NiMh are fairly forgiving of neglect - they can be left for months, charged and run. Lipos need looking after, otherwise they swell and might go bang. And boats are happy enough with the extra weight.. . " 👎 Sorry Dodgy, Usually you post useable info, but in this case I have to vehemently disagree! And I would like to put the record straight before you lead our novice members to potential disaster, or at least an expensive disappointment! 1. "NiMh are fairly forgiving of neglect - they can be left for months, charged and run." WRONG! NiMh cells lose about 1% of their charge per day! Cheaper ones with a higher internal resistance even more☹️ Which means that after about three to three and a half months they will go into deep discharge from which they can not recover. I.e. buy new batteries! The rate of such self discharge of course depends on the quality (hence price 🤔) of the in the first place. The higher the internal resistance (cheap ☹️) the faster the self discharge rate. Probably the best ones to go for are those advertised as Racing Packs. With luck they will have a lower internal resistance, otherwise they'd be useless for high speed high current racing motors!! "they can be left for months, charged and run" Hmmm! Maybe, if you're lucky, but they won't then ever run for so long as when they were new, or properly looked after, i.e. recycled/recharged every 2 or 3 months. At best you might be able to regenerate them somewhat by going through about 10 cycles of discharge and charge to recondition them. But if they have been too long in deep discharge even this won't work, the chemical deterioration is no longer reversible. Remember also the Memory Effect of NiMh chemistry batteries. If you fully recharge an NiMh before it is fully discharged it has an irritating habit of "remembering" the state of charge when you started charging and will not accept any more! Which means that the the total capacity of the is prematurely reduced each time this happens☹️ 2. "Lipos need looking after, otherwise they swell and might go bang." This I can only regard as pure scaremongering! I'm not usually so scathing in my remarks but in this instance I fear it is justified! Sure LiPos can be dangerous, but so can any of any chemistry! Seriously overcharge a "so called" Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) it can vent hydrogen gas. One spark in an unventilated room and you can re-enact the the Zeppelin disaster at Lakehurst. Unlikely these days I'll grant you, cos you'd have to stick a lot of amps in for a long time! The advantages of LiPos over NiMh, apart from the lower weight per energy/power available is that their self discharge rate is almost negligible, and their inherent internal resistance is much lower, given that you don't buy the cheapest No Name on offer! If you intend to store (not use) a LiPo for an extended period cycle it and give it a "Storage charge" of 30% and you can leave it so for several months. During which time your NiMh will probably self discharge itself into destruction. Modern LiPos will only swell and explode if you seriously maltreat them; - subject them to excessive heat, - leave them on a manual charger (not programmable for LiPos) for too long, - charge them at too high a current, Ignore all those labels with 10C or 20C charge rates! That's just marketing blurb to get you to overstress your batteries so you have to buy new ones sooner. NEVER charge at more than 1Amp if you want to get several years of life from your expensive . - charge without using a cell balancer, - draw excessive current from them under load. Stick to the rules and LiPos are no problem at at all. That is my experience from three years of using them. Oh! And not all boats are tolerant of the extra weight (of an NiMh presumably), for many smaller boats (Plastic Magic conversions for example) LiPos are the only viable solution. They now make the previously impossible possible 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

4 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charity shop find.

Hi Nerys, yes the worst part about it was only seeing him for about 6 to 8 weeks a year, till I was 14 years old. Mind you for my 12 birthday I was given an Austin Ruby(from the scrapyard) with a toolkit and manual and told to strip it all clean everything and then put it together again, took me and my best mate 18 months. When dad came home on leave he bought a and petrol and told us if we had done it to the book it would go, if we did it right he would teach us to drive it. Success it went, so dad took us to an old disused airfield and taught us to drive. That was the best time of our young lives. Nerys I thank you for stirring my old heart with such memories. Cheers Colin. PS on babysitting duty today.

4 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Wiring help needed.

Evening Commander (😉) First the 6V loads- What you need is a 6V voltage regulator tacked on to the 12V supply. Simplest way is a 3 pin IC regulator (looks like a power transistor😉) from the L78xx series. The xx stands for the output voltage, so here L or LM or MC 7806. Thing to watch for when buying is their current capability, most are only 1Amp. There are some around for 1.5A or even 3A. Check your usual component supplier, or Google around (don't let Caroline catch you 😉) Attached is a datasheet for a 1.5A version. Fig. 3. shows how to wire it into yout 12V supply. Don't worry about the capacitors. They are intended for mains derived supplies to suppress voltage transients on the input, which you won't get from a . The cap on the output is to suppress transients from the load when you switch it on. Not worth worrying about if the thruster motor is small. But if you happen to have a 0.1uF (100nF or 104 code often printed on the ceramic) ceramic plate cap kicking about ... NOT an electrolytic can type!💥 https://www.google.com/search?q=0.1uf+capacitor&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=aT8JdfspcXDrEM%253A%252CkimvVilj_2DqfM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQAb-VMPkepdmZJ-2Vd36rwOQKpWA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiKpbOmxqbkAhVIYVAKHTOBC80Q9QEwDHoECAcQHA#imgrc=aT8JdfspcXDrEM: Bow thruster- Just use a small ESC same as for propulsion.😊 What current does the thruster motor draw? Radar motor won't drink a lot I would think. Mine (converted servo) runs on a D size 1.5V dry cell for months! I don't bother with an RC switch for radar, just switch on (by inserting the !😊) at launching. Cheap n cheerful but woiks! BTW; if you want to turn on the proverbial sixpence (that's dime for our colonial brothers😁) fit a stern thruster as well, wire it's motor back to front and feed it from the same ESC via a Y cable. Don't disappear down your own funnel though 😮😮 Another way is a so called Universal BEC. This supplies power to the RX and connected loads. Some can cope with up to 5A. Google UBEC. Minor snag is that all the ones I've seen so far are 5V! Might be enough ? If you go this way disconnect ALL red power leads in the cables from ESCs to RX IF they have BECs, or they'll fight each other! Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW How's your Commander Commander? I seem to be missing some refit progress reports 😠 (Drums fingers on desk while pouring a tot of calming Pusser's Rum!) OK Grauer Burgunder actually😊 PS Welcome back DG👍

4 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob

After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, , ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U

Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your computer and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc. The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable. There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box. This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions) Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true) Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there. I use a number of their products such as chargers, rev counters, checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere. For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available) John B

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Martin Westquay's Piper Cub ;-)

I confess I am in 2 minds over this. Having an OS 10 is ideal, but then it doesn't have a muffler, so I'll have to make one, a bit of a faff. But then, I have fuel, somewhere a glow stik and I think my son even has my old starter for one of his boats. I love the smell and so does my wife so that's no problem. The lack of mess? Well it's only a wipe down with a rag when you're done. Starting frustration and dead sticks...yes, that's certainly a consideration. Our club is still more IC than electric, so loads of help if needed with recalcitrant engines. I recently re-bearinged an HB 25 and they got that running well on a test stand. Really, it's only the muffler hassle that may yet put me off the OS installation. that and the fact that I've now glued up the firewall where the hole goes for the electric! Although that, of course, is for a big old 550, not a comparatively small brushless. Of course, then there's the expense. I don't have a big brushless (well I do, but that's in an outboard motor speedboat), I'd need a new ESC and I don't have a suitable . Biggest I have is a 2200 3S. Ah, just re-read and seen that's the you mention for the Cub. Martin

4 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Magnetic motors

Doug, yeah, leaving them in water to see if the VP will shrink is obviously a non starter. I guess you could nip down the road an hour or two and see if you can find a Swiss Watch Maker who could get it down to 30mm Dia. If you do find one, I will order a couple of 40mm for my tug and a further on for my trawler. As to the Magnetic Motors, for me its about space in the model to fit enough generation capacity to meet the full load requirements. Assuming the load current can be generated, a method of switching in or out the magnetic gen sets as the load varies will be required. I am assuming that you will need more than one unit. Then, as you say we need a direct reversing ESC that will handle both the load and the power from the magnetic get sets as opposed to the nice smooth supply from a . Big Boys Toys like ships and rail locos have a Thyristor Bridge to do it, We could use suitable transistors or high current power micro circuits to build a DIY one. Having said all this, is it a value solution to save the fitting of a ? Loads of different views and issues to weigh up for each modeller to reach there own conclusion. For now I have to much invested in batteries, not only as power sources but also as ballast!

4 years ago by ikseno99

Response

Re: Graupner Optimist 1978

It's very relaxing Martin, if you are not in a powerboat mood, just sit in your chair and know that the only you have to worry about just has to power a couple of servos,(winch and rudder) no motors or drive shafts or ESCs to worry about, and you can pretty much stay out there all day if you have good TX batteries, and your rec is powered by a UBEC from your main . I've sailed full sized small boats (biggest was an 18ft 'A' class cat ) since I was 12yrs old (54yrs) so it's just a miniature extension of that. I still have 2 small yachts (12ft and 15ft) and a 12ft dinghy with a 15hp motor for fishing, all rebuilt (the dinghy and 12 footer I got for free) but I'm finding that every time I go out now I come back covered in bruises, (clumsy old man syndrome) Here's a short video of a bit of my last 22km run in the dinghy to an island just up the coast from where I live. I took advantage of a brilliant day! (we don't get them that calm too often) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKSBjMllKQg John B

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Bow fender for Riva Ariston replica Proboat Volete

These are nice. couldn't find an exact match but I believe they are key fobs (chains) So I looked on the web and ebay at keychains, fobs and found lots of potentially useful little things, some other nice little boat fenders, life jackets steering wheels, etc. I am a scratch builder but this could an easy inexpensive part source for some things. I also have a proboat Volere which I like a lot. When I first got it, it ran O.K. but pushed up a big bow wave. First thing I tried was moving the from the middle of the boat to the back, I cut off the unnecessary parts of the servo horn and then I could put the easily into the stern. I bought a additional of the same type on ebay for a few dollars except 9.6V instead of 8.4V. That helped a lot too. Having success I changed the motor, still brushed to an 05 size for an airplane. (master airscrew ma 3560) Now she easily rises right up on plane and goes like a speed boat should.

4 years ago by Commodore-H

Forum

Batteries in a DX5e

Hi Martin, "Bloody silly they couldn't make rechargeables the same voltage as dry cells in the first place!" It's 'bloody silly' fact of life of the physics of the chemistry used in NiMH!😉 LiPo chemistry is different again, being based on Lithium instead of Nickel. Which is why there nominal cell voltage is 3.7V. All to do with number of electron shells and charge carriers I believe 😮🤓 I can assure assure you there is no charging socket on your TX inside or out👍 If your 'wee gizmo' looks like the one in attached pic it is a monitor, in particular for LiPos. Plugged into the balancing socket of a Lipo it displays the cell voltages and then total voltage. It also screams it's nuts off if a cell drops to it's lowest safe voltage. ~3.0V (some say 2.7V!) So you could use it as an alarm if using a LiPo in your models.👍 Happy flying, "Straighten up and fly right" 😉 Great Glenn Miller number. Cheers, Doug 😎

4 years ago by RNinMunich

Wiki

LiPo Charging

NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! LiPo Charging - Use specific Lithium Polymer charger only! Non-compliance may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage. - Do not let the voltage on the cells drop more than 2.75v / Cell. it is recommended to unplug the after use which would stop any further discharge of the pack! - Never charge batteries unattended. Whenever charging Li-Poly batteries you should always remain in constant observation to monitor the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur. - if at any time you witness a starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue charging process immediately, disconnect the and observe it in a safe place for approximately 15 minutes. This may cause the to leak, and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in fire. Since delayed chemical reaction can occur, it is best to observe the as a safety precaution. observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. - Use caution to avoid puncture of the cell. Puncture of cells may cause a fire. - Wire lead shorts can cause fire! if you accidentally short the wires, the must be placed in a safe area for observation for approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, if a short occurs and contact is made with metal (such as rings on your hand), severe injuries may occur due to the conductibility of electric current. - in the event of a crash, you must remove for observation and place in a safe open area away from any combustible material for approximately 15 minutes. - if for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, it will be necessary to cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires to not touch each other or a short may occur, potentially causing a fire. if you accidentally cause the to short, place it in a safe open space and observe the for approximately 15 minutes. A may swell or even possibly catch fire after a short time. - Never store or charge pack inside your car or building in extreme temperatures, since extreme temperature could ignite fire. Charging Process - Never charge batteries unattended; Charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials; Let cool down to ambient temperature before charging. - Do not charge batteries packs in series. Charge each pack individually. Failure to do so may result in incorrect recognition and charging functions. Overcharging may occur and fire may be the result. - When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the label. As a safety precaution, please confirm the information printed on the is correct. - Selecting a cell count other than the one printed on the (always confirm label is correct), can cause fire. - You must check the pack voltage before charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if open voltage per cell is less than 3.3v Example Do not charge a 2 cell pack if below 6.6v; 3 cell pack if below 9.9v. - You must select the charge rate current that does not to exceed 1C (one times he capacity of the ). A higher setting may cause fire. The below chart is calculated at 1 x capacity of pack. Example: 1800mAh: charge below 1.8Amps; 2200mAh: charge below 2.2Amps; 3600mAh: charge below 3.6Amps First Discharge: Keep the run time to 6-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks. Storage & Transportation Store at room temperature between 40F and 80F for best results; do not expose pack to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

backup

The web is full of low- detection circuits - including those with latchable switching to stop the circuit turning back off when the main recovers voltage as it is rested. See the link below.https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=opera&q=low-+detection+circuits&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 An alternative approach might be to detect, not the dropping of a voltage to some specific level, but the actual failure of the R/C signal at the servo due to low voltage. You can do this with a 555 easily enough and less than half a dozen components - this is often used to drive a sound generator to find a missing aircraft (just turn off the radio), or some other failsafe action. For instance http://www.circuitstoday.com/missing-pulse-detector-circuit-using-ne555 A latchable missing pulse detector coupled to a switch to add a single C NiMH to the main power (and an LED warning) would let you get the absolute maximum out of a and then boost the voltage sufficiently for a short home run. That is, if you want to run your batteries down to their limits and you are running on such a low voltage that the BEC is the first thing to go. You could also take pulses off the prop-shaft if you didn't mind the circuit switching in whenever the boat stopped.... 😊 Usually, a boat running slowly would be the best indication to come in and change batteries....

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

backup

Funny you should mention that Martin 😉 I built one many years ago.😊 It used a 5V two pole change over relay to switch to a second . It must be still kicking about somewhere. I had it in my destroyer. Originally I set it up to work like an overdrive. I had two 6V SLAs in the ship. Cruised around on one and used the relay to switch the second in series for 'ALL AHEAD EMERGENCY'. RC controlled of course 😉 Was quite spectacular and made some 'speedboat' drivers look silly if they started driving in circles around me while I was cruising 😂🤣 Hotspur was halfway across the lake before they realised I'd gone. Had to go easy on the rudder when flat out though, the heeling was heart stopping😮 Nowadays I might try it with power MOSFETs (like in modern ESCs) instead of the relay. Relay is simpler to build though. Simple enough to rig the comparator circuit up to either relay or power FETs. You just need a small single transistor preamp in between to boost the few mA from the chip output to enough to drive the relay or FET switch. For emergency 'Get Home' use the second could just be a small capacity version, if there isn't enough space or weight margin for a second full spec drive . I think I would prefer a high brightness all-round LED flasher to raising a flag. Plus an alarm horn perhaps. Although a flag would be a nice gimmick. Cream on top so to speak. 'spose it could be rigged up to small winch and a closed loop of cord with a pulley at the mast top. Once the basic circuit stands what you use it to drive is only limited by imagination, resources and space and load margins. So get your thinking caps on lads and lasses!! You don't want to flatten the emergency too quick though! Gotta go now, Dinner with the GF 😋😋😋 CU later, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Prop size and speed

Agreed Martin, one thing at a time! BUT: Stuart; I believe we are discussing your 24" Commander here. In which case your results mirror mine with my 24" Sea Scout. Except that my prop shaft did not bind!!😉 It was also reluctant to plane with a 2S LiPo (7.4V nominal) but went very well and planed easily with a 3S (11.1V nominal). I also was using 4000mAH batteries. I published my results using various batteries here in the Media - Video section. Go to the Media Gallery and search for Sea Scout. So, I would leave the motor and prop alone and (after fixing the prop shaft!!!) try a 3S . I'm sure you will be satisfied 👍 Prop technology is complex as Martin said, our old friend Bernoulli raises his head for instance🤔 But, essentially bigger is better for more speed or same speed with lower shaft revolutions when applied to real size ships. BUT 2: with our electric powered models bigger props often simply increase the load on the motor causing it to draw more current for a fractional increase in boat speed if any. In essence props with fewer blades are inherently more efficient as you hinted. Minimum being 2 of course 🙄 Two bladers are popular with the Fast Electric guys for that reason. I don't do speedboats, I'm a scale guy and my maxim is; If the real vessel had an XYZ screw then so will my model! Summary; first fix the propshaft; lubrication, alignment with motor shaft, ensure a few thou of clearance between prop hub / locknut and the end of the shaft tube. Preferably with a thrust washer in between. Second, fit a 3S preferably crosswise above the C of G of the boat. As you can see in the pic of my Sea Scout 'engine room' in your Commander thread. For those with a mathematical mind, undying curiosity and an afternoon to spare I attach a paper on the Principles of Ship Propulsion from MAN, the supplier of small to huge diesels to probably a majority of ships (commercial and naval) built today. You should find Chapter 2: Propeller Propulsion particularly illuminating! Happy reading 😉 Just remember the paper deals with real ships and real water, we have scale ships but not scale water🤔 Basic dynamics still apply though. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Can anyone help please?

Have you got the + and - wires the right way round on the or is the motor to powerful for the speed controller I put a fuse in the positive wire and it has saved several controller when connecting the wires the wrong way round on the hope this is of some help

5 years ago by scout13

Response

Re: Aero-Naut Classic

Great post fantastic project - most of use Li-Po batteries without any issues allbeit in portable or laptop computers, some cell phones, portable chargers and elsewhere. Heck, a standard alkaline 1.5 or 9 volt can cause issues if not properly used or placed under stress. But - I’ve made mistakes myself and come close to bad issues using power sources improperly or without heeding instructions such as using them full out without allowing them to cool. it’s all about using caution and precautions, understandably accidents do happen though

6 years ago by Brucef102

Forum

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring

Hi all, a friend is building a submarine and wants to turn it on remotely with a proximity switch and magnet, he needs to know where to wire it in... I thought it should be into the positive wire from the - am I right? Thanks in advance, Eric

5 years ago by EricMB

Blog

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys, Just a little warning if you plan on using a remote on/off switch in your WTC. To work it needs to be permanently connected to a power source (your ) even when your submarine is switched off, so it tends to drain the when you are not using it. So the last thing you want is to keep stripping down your WTC just to charge the . If you have an external charging point then this is not so bad. A magnet on/off switch will prevent this problem. It is to late for me to change mine now as it will be a massive job to do so but if I have to then I will later. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Blog

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER

After the trials, tribulations, experiments and frustration, can finally announce this model is sailing well. It has excellent performance and looks, both on and off the water. A build really for the more experienced modeller though. If the performance envelope is to be explored it should be done on a suitably large area of water with few other vessels around. However, enjoyed building a model of an unusual class of vessels. It expanded my knowledge and skills, then kept me occupied throughout a Canadian winter! Have also been lucky to have received considerable useful advice from other modellers, which was much appreciated. Building from scratch off a proprietary glass fibre hull gives a robust model with plenty of opportunity for individual input. Intend to use this approach again. Whilst am rather blinkered about building scale models to scale; considerable frustration, time and money could have been saved by using a single or even a twin screw layout, rather than the triple. Performance might also have been further improved and weight saved. Several of the U Tube videos of the similar Perkasa models show how well these layouts work. There are several photos attached; 1) Stationary. 2) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 2S 3) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 3S . Because the pond is small, was unable to capture the marked differences in performance between the 2 and 3 S batteries. It will plane easily on either, just rather more frenetically on the 3!. Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration. Will endeavour to get pictures and a video that make this more obvious and post when available.

5 years ago by Rowen

Forum

EeZeBilt RAF Crash Tender trial video

After reading your post with great I terest, I had to have a search round my attic and sure enough, among my toys from the fifties I located my still boxed but well used plastic powered fire boat. It was an Xmas 1954 present. I'll try again tomorrow to post a photo, can't upload pics at moment????. Thanks for the memories Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Blog

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Getting ready for the maiden voyage after the extensive winter upgrade and stumbled across an article on programming Hobbyking ESCs. Have always been concerned about the “stuttering” of the brushless motors. This is more correctly identified as “cogging”, often caused by incorrect motor timing. Changed the timing to “Automatic” from the incorrect previous setting, which was for inrunner motors not outrunners. Now much smoother acceleration from neutral to full speed. On the water, first, the brushed motor centre screw concept works well. It allows controllable maneuvering and powers the model nicely in a displacement mode. No planning, but with a reasonable bow wave. The model weight is a little high, as she rides towards the top of the boot topping. Tried the brushless outer screws and realized my efforts to “detune” the motors were overdone. The model performance was adequate, but still had difficulty in getting both motors to run consistently and smoothly. Think the water drag was slowing the motors more that expected as they had worked satisfactory on the bench. Adjusted the ESC output back to 100% - much better. After 45 minutes of running the alarm came on, curtailing trials. She planes very much as the real vessel did, lifting the forefoot clearly out of the water. Had a spare , but 3S not 2. Was apprehensive about the increased power this would bring, but as the model was operating satisfactorily decided to try it. Better still! Motors now work consistently smoothly and in concert throughout the throttle range. The top speed exceeds any picture I have seen of the Brave class though. Can readily get a third of the hull out of the water. Will conduct more trails, but need a larger pond to give time to experiment with the various control settings. Hope to post a concluding blog with pictures shortly.

5 years ago by Rowen

Wiki

LiPo Charging

DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) LiPo Charging - Use specific Lithium Polymer charger only! Non-compliance may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage. - Do not let the voltage on the cells drop more than 2.75v / Cell. it is recommended to unplug the after use which would stop any further discharge of the pack! - Never charge batteries unattended. Whenever charging Li-Poly batteries you should always remain in constant observation to monitor the charging process and react to potential problems that may occur. - if at any time you witness a starting to balloon or swell up, discontinue charging process immediately, disconnect the and observe it in a safe place for approximately 15 minutes. This may cause the to leak, and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in fire. Since delayed chemical reaction can occur, it is best to observe the as a safety precaution. observation should occur in a safe area outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible material. - Use caution to avoid puncture of the cell. Puncture of cells may cause a fire. - Wire lead shorts can cause fire! if you accidentally short the wires, the must be placed in a safe area for observation for approximately 15 minutes. Additionally, if a short occurs and contact is made with metal (such as rings on your hand), severe injuries may occur due to the conductibility of electric current. - in the event of a crash, you must remove for observation and place in a safe open area away from any combustible material for approximately 15 minutes. - if for any reason you need to cut the terminal wires, it will be necessary to cut each wire separately, ensuring the wires to not touch each other or a short may occur, potentially causing a fire. if you accidentally cause the to short, place it in a safe open space and observe the for approximately 15 minutes. A may swell or even possibly catch fire after a short time. - Never store or charge pack inside your car or building in extreme temperatures, since extreme temperature could ignite fire. Charging Process - Never charge batteries unattended; Charge in an isolated area, away from other flammable materials; Let cool down to ambient temperature before charging. - Do not charge batteries packs in series. Charge each pack individually. Failure to do so may result in incorrect recognition and charging functions. Overcharging may occur and fire may be the result. - When selecting the cell count or voltage for charging purposes, select the cell count and voltage as it appears on the label. As a safety precaution, please confirm the information printed on the is correct. - Selecting a cell count other than the one printed on the (always confirm label is correct), can cause fire. - You must check the pack voltage before charging. Do not attempt to charge any pack if open voltage per cell is less than 3.3v Example Do not charge a 2 cell pack if below 6.6v; 3 cell pack if below 9.9v. - You must select the charge rate current that does not to exceed 1C (one times he capacity of the ). A higher setting may cause fire. The below chart is calculated at 1 x capacity of pack. Example: 1800mAh: charge below 1.8Amps; 2200mAh: charge below 2.2Amps; 3600mAh: charge below 3.6Amps First Discharge: Keep the run time to 6-minute sessions with 15-minute breaks. Storage & Transportation Store at room temperature between 40F and 80F for best results; do not expose pack to direct sunlight (heat) for extended periods.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Basic hull construction completed

No. The motor size is not in the instructions, but from a previous forum post I've been recommended a 28xx Brushless 1100Kv with a 11.1V 2200Mah LiPo . Yes. I have that edition and following the editorial. it is a more detailed version of the instructions as both written by Dave Milbourne. 👍

5 years ago by StuartE

Forum

What size brushless motor?

I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single prop shaft and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful brushless electric motor/ combination I can fit? I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied. Thank you in anticipation....👍

5 years ago by StuartE

Forum

Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel

This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with, , radio gear etc required. ( I also note there is no servo for the rudder ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).

5 years ago by Davecounty

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Hi just a thought the VIPER 25 AMP has a BEC ( Elimination Circuit ) built into it and if you connect a power supply to your receiver as well to power from the motor all manner of thing can go wrong John

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Replacement motor

Hi Bengtt For that size model I use a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv brushless motor or a D3548/4 1100kv on a 3S lipo (between 3700-5800mah), a 60 or 100Amp car ESC (HK-60A-SL or HK-100A), program card(HK PROG-CARD). I have a good setup for this system, if you require. Prop start with the one you have, but I use a 2 blade 40mm or 3 Blade 37mm (brass or CNC). Slightly over scale speed, depending on the boat. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

hi ya J that looks like an Mtroniks speed controller in the pic - does this one have the button on that you press to set it up? because I know what you would need to do is set your trim in the neutral position for the throttle and then go through the procedure of switching on the transmitter and then the receiver and then pressing the button on the speed controller so it recognises where neutral is. I believe some of these Mtroniks are something like 100% rpm forward and something like 75% rpm in reverse. if this idea doesn't work you could always swap the wires over on the motor. (NOT ON THE ) 🤓 Chinee smokey come out of speed controller if you do dat 😲 John

5 years ago by JOHN

Media

Tug Brooklyn

Tug Brooklyn Steam Engine Sound Generator Test! With her Running Lights on! I couldn't use her Steam Whistle!😤 I only had one 9 volt !😭 Anyway here goes nothing!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Painting

I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Billing’s Boat J-502-Progress

Small boats have less access below the deck. I might use a flat pack instead of the quad shown here. The model tested well in the laundry tub under power. Much left to do yet, glad the electronics work. A mini rudder servo is being added.

5 years ago by Ronald

Forum

Precedent Fairey Huntsman

I have for sale an unfinished Fairey Huntsman 31, I started it approx 9 months ago as a project with my grandson but his attention has now turned to model railways, subsequently I have now lost interest in completing and sailing it, the boat is approx 90% complete and comes with new RC equipment motor etc, I am looking for £250 just to recoup the costs and to put to his new model railway. I live inStoke-on-Trent if anybody would like to have a look,

5 years ago by bthart

Blog

PS Iona - paddles

I decided to build the paddles on my 3D printer, working off the plan rather than building in brass as this should be much quicker... should be! Feeling confident I designed ver 1 & printed it out... and scratched my head a lot to see how this was going to fit together. So ver 2 was much better and almost looked like it would work. Ver 3... same etc. Ver 4 👍 This would assemble looking like paddles. I decided against feathering paddles having talked to a few paddle steamer builders - it seemed more complicated, used slightly more power and in 1:36 scale would make little difference to performance. Having built one now I would probably make a few changes but it looks and performs ok. The assembled paddle is attached to a 4mm stainless steel drive shaft with brass bushes. I have recently added some pins to ensure they don't come loose on the lake.🤓

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Blog

Building the Cabin. Part 1

The superstructure of the launch is very simple, and from a practical point it was designed to give the crew a large field of view across the river and fast access in and out to deal with emergency situations. Consequently the construction is quite basic and would be quite straightforward if permanently fixed to the boat but this cabin needs to be removable to give access to the location and motor. Because of this the cabin needs to be a strong and rigid structure of its own and yet fit invisibly to the rest of the model, it’s also only a three sided structure because of the open access at the rear and that alone will be a point of weakness to the structure. I started by glueing the internal bracing strips to the insides of the deck sides as described in the instruction sheet and some strips that form the base for the sides that sit on the deck, these also needs to be sanded to an angle to sit flush on the deck and also create a vertical face that some further strips are fixed to which meet the inside walls of the deck well. Although all the parts for the cabin are accurately laser cut I chose to do a dry ‘test fit’ using pins and elastic bands to hold the side panels and roof braces together. This 'dry fit' was neccessary because I had previously decided to fit false obeche panels over the balsa sides and floor of the well to get a better surface to finish in the way I intend, balsa does not have any pleasing grain and does not look good even when stained, so I pinned all these panels in place to account for their addition to the internal dimensions of the well deck. When I was happy that the geometry of the side panels and front window panels was correct I glued all the roof braces in place and added some reinforcing fillets to make it more rigid, temporary braces were glued across the front and rear of the assembly to keep the whole thing rigid and square during further assembly. The pins and rubber bands were used to pull in the side panels while the aliphatic glue set. All of this was done with the cabin on the boat so that the correct ‘dry’ fit converted to a permanent fit. Part 2 will continue with the addition of the front window panels and roof.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Palamo's Fishing boat

Well it's winter here in Hamilton Ontario & I decided to R/C a kit by Ocio Creativo 1/45 scale length 410 mm fishing boat .The model is a static kit so the trick will be installing all the R/C equipment . The challenge is the bulk heads are solid & will need to be modified for motor ,stuffing box , ,Etc .

5 years ago by GARTH

Forum

1950s sea commander refurb.

Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones . I have ordered a new rudder, and new plexi glass for the windows. Already in hand is an Mtronics Viper marine 25 amp ESC. 12 volt 7ah , Futaba 27 or 40 Mhz RX. Futaba servo. Just awaiting the motor from Doug (RN in Munich). We are going to repaint the Hull in White, Cabin sides in Dark Blue, Cabin roofs in White. The decks will be left as my dad made them, just cleaned and a fresh coat of varnish. the inside of the hull is well sealed already with bitumen (original) which is still allright. Next stage start rubbing down the hull ready for the glass cloth and Ezekote resin. at least i can do this indoors in the warm, workshop too d*** cold. Thats all for today shipmates, more to come, Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Blog

6 Volts of Course of Course!

Captain's Log: The right for the job! I found a that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the water line! The is a 6 volt 8.5 amp . Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the batteries from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12 batteries weigh too much! So, A 6 volt was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!👍

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

AIR FOR STEAM

Hello All Thinking out loud when I research steam engines it seams after they are built or after repair they are tested on an air compressor is it possible to set up a model RC boat to run a steam engine with air if so would it be by compressor or a compressed air bottle . If by compressor is there a small enough unit to go into a boat and be operated any ideas . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

AIR FOR STEAM

Small compressors as in car tyre pumps would do it but the drain on the would be quite high. A small compressed air cylinder with a regulator could work, but where you would be able to get one I don't know. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H