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    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft,
    battery
    , ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Fire Boat) 34'' Aerokits Crash Tender
    Can't really complain about this setup, the boat performs well and the
    battery
    life is also very good considering the performance it delivers. (Motor: Mega X Motor) (ESC: Barracuda) (9/10)
    10 years ago by Fireboat
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    No. The motor size is not in the instructions, but from a previous forum post I've been recommended a 28xx Brushless 1100Kv with a 11.1V 2200Mah LiPo
    battery
    . Yes. I have that edition and following the editorial. it is a more detailed version of the instructions as both written by Dave Milbourne. πŸ‘
    11 days ago by StuartE
    Forum
    What size brushless motor?
    I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single prop shaft and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful brushless electric motor/
    battery
    combination I can fit? I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied. Thank you in anticipation....πŸ‘
    14 days ago by StuartE
    Forum
    Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel
    This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with,
    battery
    , radio gear etc required. ( I also note there is no servo for the rudder ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).
    23 days ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Hi just a thought the VIPER 25 AMP has a BEC (
    battery
    Elimination Circuit ) built into it and if you connect a power supply to your receiver as well to power from the motor
    battery
    all manner of thing can go wrong John
    26 days ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Replacement motor
    Hi Bengtt For that size model I use a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv brushless motor or a D3548/4 1100kv on a 3S lipo
    battery
    (between 3700-5800mah), a 60 or 100Amp car ESC (HK-60A-SL or HK-100A), program card(HK PROG-CARD). I have a good setup for this system, if you require. Prop start with the one you have, but I use a 2 blade 40mm or 3 Blade 37mm (brass or CNC). Slightly over scale speed, depending on the boat. Canabus
    27 days ago by canabus
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    hi ya J that looks like an Mtroniks speed controller in the pic - does this one have the button on that you press to set it up? because I know what you would need to do is set your trim in the neutral position for the throttle and then go through the procedure of switching on the transmitter and then the receiver and then pressing the button on the speed controller so it recognises where neutral is. I believe some of these Mtroniks are something like 100% rpm forward and something like 75% rpm in reverse. if this idea doesn't work you could always swap the wires over on the motor. (NOT ON THE
    battery
    ) πŸ€“ Chinee smokey come out of speed controller if you do dat 😲 John
    29 days ago by JOHN
    Media
    Tug Brooklyn
    Tug Brooklyn Steam Engine Sound Generator Test! With her Running Lights on! I couldn't use her Steam Whistle!😀 I only had one 9 volt
    battery
    !😭 Anyway here goes nothing!
    29 days ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Painting
    I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC,
    battery
    and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.πŸ€“ The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😀 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
    29 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Billing’s Boat J-502-Progress
    Small boats have less access below the deck. I might use a flat
    battery
    pack instead of the quad shown here. The model tested well in the laundry tub under power. Much left to do yet, glad the electronics work. A mini rudder servo is being added.
    1 month ago by Ron
    Forum
    Precedent Fairey Huntsman
    I have for sale an unfinished Fairey Huntsman 31, I started it approx 9 months ago as a project with my grandson but his attention has now turned to model railways, subsequently I have now lost interest in completing and sailing it, the boat is approx 90% complete and comes with new RC equipment
    battery
    motor etc, I am looking for Β£250 just to recoup the costs and to put to his new model railway. I live inStoke-on-Trent if anybody would like to have a look,
    1 month ago by bthart
    Blog
    Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug
    Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA
    battery
    to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    PS Iona - paddles
    I decided to build the paddles on my 3D printer, working off the plan rather than building in brass as this should be much quicker... should be! Feeling confident I designed ver 1 & printed it out... and scratched my head a lot to see how this was going to fit together. So ver 2 was much better and almost looked like it would work. Ver 3... same etc. Ver 4 πŸ‘ This would assemble looking like paddles. I decided against feathering paddles having talked to a few paddle steamer builders - it seemed more complicated, used slightly more
    battery
    power and in 1:36 scale would make little difference to performance. Having built one now I would probably make a few changes but it looks and performs ok. The assembled paddle is attached to a 4mm stainless steel drive shaft with brass bushes. I have recently added some pins to ensure they don't come loose on the lake.πŸ€“
    1 month ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    Palamo's Fishing boat
    Well it's winter here in Hamilton Ontario & I decided to R/C a kit by Ocio Creativo 1/45 scale length 410 mm fishing boat .The model is a static kit so the trick will be installing all the R/C equipment . The challenge is the bulk heads are solid & will need to be modified for motor ,stuffing box ,
    battery
    ,Etc .
    2 months ago by GARTH
    Blog
    Building the Cabin. Part 1
    The superstructure of the launch is very simple, and from a practical point it was designed to give the crew a large field of view across the river and fast access in and out to deal with emergency situations. Consequently the construction is quite basic and would be quite straightforward if permanently fixed to the boat but this cabin needs to be removable to give access to the
    battery
    location and motor. Because of this the cabin needs to be a strong and rigid structure of its own and yet fit invisibly to the rest of the model, it’s also only a three sided structure because of the open access at the rear and that alone will be a point of weakness to the structure. I started by glueing the internal bracing strips to the insides of the deck sides as described in the instruction sheet and some strips that form the base for the sides that sit on the deck, these also needs to be sanded to an angle to sit flush on the deck and also create a vertical face that some further strips are fixed to which meet the inside walls of the deck well. Although all the parts for the cabin are accurately laser cut I chose to do a dry β€˜test fit’ using pins and elastic bands to hold the side panels and roof braces together. This 'dry fit' was neccessary because I had previously decided to fit false obeche panels over the balsa sides and floor of the well to get a better surface to finish in the way I intend, balsa does not have any pleasing grain and does not look good even when stained, so I pinned all these panels in place to account for their addition to the internal dimensions of the well deck. When I was happy that the geometry of the side panels and front window panels was correct I glued all the roof braces in place and added some reinforcing fillets to make it more rigid, temporary braces were glued across the front and rear of the assembly to keep the whole thing rigid and square during further assembly. The pins and rubber bands were used to pull in the side panels while the aliphatic glue set. All of this was done with the cabin on the boat so that the correct β€˜dry’ fit converted to a permanent fit. Part 2 will continue with the addition of the front window panels and roof.
    1 month ago by robbob
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones . I have ordered a new rudder, and new plexi glass for the windows. Already in hand is an Mtronics Viper marine 25 amp ESC. 12 volt 7ah
    battery
    , Futaba 27 or 40 Mhz RX. Futaba servo. Just awaiting the motor from Doug (RN in Munich). We are going to repaint the Hull in White, Cabin sides in Dark Blue, Cabin roofs in White. The decks will be left as my dad made them, just cleaned and a fresh coat of varnish. the inside of the hull is well sealed already with bitumen (original) which is still allright. Next stage start rubbing down the hull ready for the glass cloth and Ezekote resin. at least i can do this indoors in the warm, workshop too d*** cold. Thats all for today shipmates, more to come, Cheers Colin.
    1 month ago by Colin H
    Media
    Ultimate Enticement
    This is a 1984 re-issue of a Lindberg Chris Craft Sport fishermen purchased used on Ebay. Some of the parts where broken and some partially assembled. The model did come with 2 MACK RC motors and some fabricated wood parts, including a template for the aft deck. The interior was assembled from quarter scale doll house items except for the dinette. There are 4 underwater LED bulbs with a dedicated power supply. The running, interior and radar unit are powered by a separate systems from the hull electrics. The second Li-po
    battery
    is for backup and balast. There are number of additional items added since these photos were taken including a stern seat and larger radar array .
    2 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Blog
    6 Volts of Course of Course!
    Captain's Log: The right
    battery
    for the job! I found a
    battery
    that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The
    battery
    weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the water line! The
    battery
    is a 6 volt 8.5 amp
    battery
    . Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the batteries from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12 batteries weigh too much! So, A 6 volt
    battery
    was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!πŸ‘
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    AIR FOR STEAM
    Hello All Thinking out loud when I research steam engines it seams after they are built or after repair they are tested on an air compressor is it possible to set up a model RC boat to run a steam engine with air if so would it be by compressor or a compressed air bottle . If by compressor is there a small enough unit to go into a boat and be
    battery
    operated any ideas . Rick
    2 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    AIR FOR STEAM
    Small compressors as in car tyre pumps would do it but the drain on the
    battery
    would be quite high. A small compressed air cylinder with a regulator could work, but where you would be able to get one I don't know. Cheers Colin.
    2 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA
    battery
    in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors,
    battery
    types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH
    battery
    packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    2 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Don't quite understand why you would want to run four props & motors. One of my fleet is a old Precident Perkasa, in all wood including the hull. Powered by a 12v 7ah lead acid
    battery
    a single 550 motor and a three blade prop. As you can probably imagine she is heavy but still gets on the plane to mimic the real thing, will admit the motor did get a bit hot untill I fitted a heat sink with fan cooling. I also have a Hooben Perkasa in injection moulded plastic, yet to be built but intend to use the same set up. Cheers for now JohnπŸ‘
    2 months ago by bikerjohn57
    Blog
    6 Volts of Course!
    Captain's Log: Well I found a 6 volt 8.5 amp
    battery
    . For my Brooklyn to use! Just have to order her main motor and a new smoker! Both of which will be at 6 volts! Now, if I've done my math right! And all I use is her main motor. I would end up with about 2.5 hours of run time! But, if I use her main motor and smoke. I will end up with a little over 1.5 hours of run time! I was lucky in that I have a buyer. For her old 12 volt motor and 12 volt smoker! They have about an hour of use! Not exactly what I call used. But, Have to sell as used equipment!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Directory
    (Fire Boat) Fireboat
    Recently acquired Fireboat that needs refurbishment. Existing loose single shaft removed and twin shafts and rudders fitted. To fitted with twin (possibly brushless) motors, each with its own
    battery
    and controller. Updates to follow. (5/10)
    2 months ago by Welshsailor
    Blog
    Build
    The heating elements in the hairdryer had two different wire gauges as elements. I removed the lighter gauge thinking they would probably draw less current. I am attempting to use 6 volts as that is what my boat is. 1. First Photo: Took a length of element and stretched it out as shown, started with a longer piece about 8". if you are at 12v probably longer. Use some alligator clip jumpers and attached to one end, ran it to negative terminal of my 6v SLA. Took another jumper and attached to a point on the wire, say about 7". JUST TOUCH the other end to the
    battery
    positive to see if it glowed, it did not. So just moved about 3/8" at a time till it glowed - See Photo. CAUTION, make certain you have a nonflammable surface to work on, I used a tile scrap. IT GETS HOT FAST AND WILL BURN, DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW. That's why I just touch the terminal till it glows then stop, let it cool for a while. 2. Cut element to length, than take your 16 gauge wire and the crimp tube shown in earlier post. insert both into the tube and crimp it. I used a side cutter and carefully just squeezed enough. Make sure that the element will not pull out. Do the other end. Because I am using only 6 volts, I had flattened out the wire to give me more wraps on the wick. See photo and note. 3. in the lid of the box, I located the fan at one end, the exhaust stack at the other. Drilled a hole matching the fan opening and secured with two screws, drill small pilot holes so as not to crack the plastic. Drill hole to match brass tube OD, tube is about 1" long or so. Super glued brass tube in place. Excuse the sloppy copper sheet work on the inside of the lid, it was an experiment at the time. I added this a a bit of a heat sheild as the wick and element would sit below this. 4. Next photos show the interior of the box, not the best photos of the process as this was already built.... The mint tin set inside the plastic box was an idea to do two things; first isolate the heating element from the plastic,and two, provide a smaller vessel for the fluid. You may want to just use a metal container instead of the plastic box, again I was just using what I had on hand. The wick is laying in the tin with the element propped up at on end to keep it out of the fluid. Photo shown does not show much fluid in place. This needs some work, but worked for this test. Experiment, just be sure that the lower portion of the wick is in the fluid and the element wire wrap is above the fluid level. For the test, I used some mineral oil and a bit of glycerin, smoked very well. it's late so I will run it and photograph tomorrow. Cheers, Joe (Excuse the Imperial rather than metric)
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    I know what you meant! Cheers, Ed
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    I know what is was πŸ˜‰ COMMS equipment; particularly for ship to shore radio! Obviously made a deeper impression than batteries 😁
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    You're so right. That's also what my new (Nov '18) ones are! Unfortunately Spellcheckers don't include brand names, unless we put 'em in! I have used Yaesu 'somethings' over the years. Now what the heck were they!!?? πŸ€” Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    Hi Doug, check your spell checker. Should read YUASA?
    2 months ago by Wingcoax
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    Hi Doug, No, I mean $40.00 for all three Batteries! But, I'm still looking! I found one for $23.33. It's 6 volts at 8.5Ah and it weighs 3.1 Lbs. Which is just the right Ballast for Tug Brooklyn! Also ample power 1.5 hour run.....πŸ‘
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    Hi Ed, NOT 40 bucks each I hope😲 I use the Yaesu SLAs, not expensive and last for years as they are designed for use in long term applications, such as emergency lighting system, remote instrumentation systems etc. Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    Hi Joe, Yes, I've been looking around! Looked at W@lmart. And have looked at other sources. Have found 3 6volt 7amp SLA's. For about $40.00 or so. Still looking around. Might find just the right one!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    Did you see my note about the 2 pound batteries? At the local
    battery
    and light bulb shop they wanted about $24 for each. I got my TWO for $22 from Walmart. Pays to shop around.
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Cracked
    battery
    !
    Captain's Log: I hadn't inspected the new batteries. I received for Tug Brooklyn! But, on close inspection of the Batteries. One of them came with a crack!😱😀😑 So, got in contact with the company. I purchased the batteries from. And will be sending both. Batteries back for a refund! Luckily, I was looking around and have found. Lighter Batteries! Will be ordering those soon! At half the price of the ones I sent back!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Weight Too Much!
    Captain's Log: After careful consideration. I have decided to use only one
    battery
    at a time! This being 6.5 lbs. is way too much weight. Her bow is too low to the waterline. She get's thrown off by the weight. So, one
    battery
    at a time will be used! Now, having lowered the volts. From 12 volts to 6 volts is a problem. See her main motor and smoker. Are 12 volts each! So, now I have to replace. The main motor and the smoker. To a 6 volt system! This is not so easy. If any of you are familiar. With Dumas and Harbor model products. You know this ain't cheap!😭 Luckily, I will be selling both parts. Together next month! As both parts are in new condition! I will then order a 6 volt main motor and Smoker! Oh, each
    battery
    will give me about 1.5 hours of run time! And that's not bad at all..... NOTE: I'm only losing $10.00 on the resale of her Motor and Smoker!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander
    battery
    pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the
    battery
    in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin
    4 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    Hi Brianaro, many thanks for that. i am about to go and check that out. As well as my old 70's wooden Precedent Huntsman, I also have an MFA Spearfish still in the box not touched yet. I had one back in the 80's with an Irvine 61 in it and it was a great fun boat. I did plan to do the same again with it but with the constant banning of using IC engines on the ponds around area's in the UK I suppose it will end up brushless. I know they are if not faster then IC now but the cost
    battery
    wise, now being retired the funds aren't as easily found now. The sad part is I still have 2 new SC 91's, 1 new SC 61 and a Irvine 120 all still new, never been run. I think there might also be an Irvine 61 that has no box. As well as a Zenoah 26c all pimped up in purple only run in ready to be put in a boat. Shed full of both engines and boats, some boats still new in the boxes still waiting to be built. Hopefully I will get to build them before I pop me clogs.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Blog
    New Batteries!
    Captain's Log: Well, I order new batteries for the Tug Brooklyn. I placed the order about a week ago. I received them last night! Before I continue let me say this. I was using the Batteries from Tug Serenity AKA Jersey City! Those Batteries are 6 Volts at 2.5 Amps! For a total of two! I saw what I thought were the same
    battery
    . Only at 6 Volts at 8 Amps. For a total of 12 Volts at 8 Amps! Well the batteries are huge! I had to take all of the Forward ballast out of Tug Brooklyn! Even then she's a bit bow heavy. But, I really want the extra Power! Because Tug Brooklyn is a 12 Volt Tugboat! Take a look at the Batteries side by side. It's a good thing there's enough room in her forecastle! I'm putting the Batteries end to end and they fit! Oh, the Batteries weigh 6.5 LBS!😱
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Victoria
    Jacko, Like your boat and your mention of attaching all gear to the underside of the round hatch, good idea. I did this once on a racing yacht and it was great, could just pull off and access all electronic, the
    battery
    pack was placed low in the hull for low CG. Not my design, but a Swede Johnson design and molds. I will have to keep this in mind for my future design builds. Regards, Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Media
    Electric Barbarella
    Ahoy Maties! it's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. it measures 24 X 8.5 inches. it is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh
    battery
    "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁
    3 months ago by Krampus
    Blog
    Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC
    The HobbyKing ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water circuit as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last β€˜photo shows the location of the ESC, main
    battery
    fuse and receiver. The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.
    3 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi All I use the Hobbyking car ESC's HK-45A, HK-60A SL and HK-100A which all use the same program card(HK PROG-CARD). I use the same setup for all my boat, only changing the
    battery
    setting for the 2s, 3S and 4S Lipo. 1 Cutoff Voltage for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 It works for me. Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Blog
    Hatch & Tow Bitts
    Last night I started on the large hatch that will cover the entire deck opening rather than several hatches, this is to keep with simple approach. The pilot house and whatever else I decide to add will be attached to this for easy removal and access for
    battery
    charging and maintenance. it's not as easy as a flat deck hatch as I curved the deck and wanted to curve the hatch as well. See photos, I cut curved sides, then I clamped it to blocks on the bench to bend , glued and let dry for 24 hours. While that's setting up I started on building some tow bitts. These I am making from styrene that I had from my railroad scratch building. See two small for aft and 1 larger at the bow that is in progress. In addition, I showed some shots of my Brooklyn Tug Bitts. These are heavy duty and were made of brass! Still enjoying this simple build..... Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Brushless motor(s)
    Hi, I have recently purchased a Precedent KD Perkasa kit 37" and would like to power it with a brushless motor, but being an Old F**t I know nothing at all about Brushless Motors or their relevant speed controllers or
    battery
    power. So I would like your input on what exactly I need, obviously I would like the model to have a fair turn of speed. Thanking you in anticipation of your much needed assistance. Little Charlie
    5 months ago by Little-Charlie
    Directory
    (Racing Boat) skytech H101
    skytech racing boat with water cooled engine.lts capable of 18 knots ! it has a self righting function and came with a spare
    battery
    pack,prop,oil and spanner. hope to have some fun with my grandson. (Motor: 380 water cooled) (8/10)
    3 months ago by keithtindley
    Forum
    Brushless motor(s)
    Hi Charlie I have tested my 37" Perkasa with a brushless 3639-1100kv motor from Hobbyking, a 60A ESC, 3S 5800MAH Lipo
    battery
    and 37mm 3 blade CNC prop. It's dam fast !!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fddqnbnlrQ Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Steve, have you calibrated the throttle first? (read 2 and 2.2) on the instructions, You have to give the ESC a full, low and mid-point throttle position before you can start the programming. Plug in motor and ESC BEC lead into throttle position in REC. Turn on TX and give it full throttle. (make sure motor is held firmly as it may kick hard if started) Program - plug in batt wait 2 secs for beeps then wait 5 secs for musical tone (now in program mode) wait for 1,2,3 or 4 beeps (asks which program you want and will keep cycling through till you chose one) as soon as you hear the no of beeps for the program you want quickly pull the stick to the bottom and wait for the reply,- it will now cycle through the programs in step 3. Choose the one you want in the same manner as the last selection but by moving the stick to full throttle (if you miss it it will cycle round again) Hold it there and it will reply (musical beeps) wait and the program will return to step 2 and you can select the next setting to enter and repeat the process. Safest to set Auto
    battery
    and then the others as per chart especially min batt volts. Once happiness filled, follow the Program Exit instructions (step 4) Also as 'RN' previously mentioned, if you have a Futaba, you may have to reverse the throttle to make it all work. When finished, unplug batt, turn off TX, re start everything (TX, Batt/RX) and check. AS A PRECAUTION,MAKE THROTTLE NEUTRAL BEFORE RE STARTING IF YOU HAVE SET FWD AND REV, OR LOW IF NOT. BE AWARE THROTTLE MAY BE REVERSED ALSO). You may have to have a few goes but you will get there and realize it's not that difficult after all . if in doubt just un-plug the
    battery
    and start steps again. Just think of it like the ESC is asking you "do you want this"? at a particular set of beeps, and you are replying by moving the stick, or ignoring that question and moving to the next one. if you are using a pistol grip TX just let the trigger go and it will give you neutral/center (as per instructions 2.2
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi I am working on a Precedent Perkasa 37" and I added two sets of double 10mm magnets to the front of the wheelhouse and one set at the stern. I can lift the whole boat with
    battery
    by the wheelhouse. I do not think it's going to come off !!! Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA
    battery
    to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727


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