Blog

Painting

I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Blog

Day Two Springer

Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Thunder Tiger Avanti

Has anyone done any significant modifications to a Thunder Tiger Avanti fast electric? I have one and all I have done is to replace the nylon prop with a metal one thus there is very little increase in performance and the reason for doing this was due to the nylon prop throwing a blade after striking an underwater object. Prestwich Model Boats have a suitable replacement motor complete with a better ESC than the existing Ace one and their system can handle up to 4S Lipos instead of the stock set up of 3s . I have located a source of a 4S Lipo which length and width is same as my 3S one but the height is a little more and it will fit into the battery box. To trim it out properly I would have to add some ballast to the starboard side. Due to the electrics including the battery all being in a small watertight box at the stern there is not a great amount of scope for a lot of mods. Boaty😁

5 years ago by boaty

Forum

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring

switching off and on via the ESC switch does NOT disconnect the battery from the ESC just stops the ESC passing current. Power is still being used. The only way to end all current flow is to disconnect the batter by either opening the pos or neg lead from the battery. Mounting the magnet on the end of a screw and having that fit into a threaded hole should deal with the problem of keeping it in place while running.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Smoke generator

I made them myself (and engine mounts, s etc...) on my 3D printer. I printed a solid version to line up the motors then replaced those with the flexible ones afterwards.

5 years ago by landie

Forum

Huge liner model from 1929

Thanks Commodore,👍 I'm going to use a 2V SLA battery, as normal for firing up the Glo motors. I was wondering about ignition time needed and burn out of the plug coil. Just have to experiment I suppose, trick will be to limit the amount of oxygen getting to the coil I guess. Was planning to mass produce the Depthcharges from balsa dowel. Maybe I could 'scoop 'em up' with my tug or fishing cutter😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Launch ELAINE,

Hi Colin, As discussed on the phone; 2V grid bias, 90V anode supply! In those days they had 90V dry batteries, they musta run it 'sumow'! 😁 Don't give up so easy! Nowadays how about a 24S LiPo? Or even Martin's 'big box' solution. http://www.batterysupports.com/lion-lipo-nbsp-88v-nbsp-24s-c-32_62.html 24V chargers / balancers won't be cheap though🤔 2V is no sweat; 2V SLA, a la Glow Plug starter. How big is the boat an' how much weight can she carry? My first car radio was an ancient Echo valve job, with an inductive inverter bolted under the dash to produce the 90-100v for the bottles. Took me ages to find a way to mount it so it didn't make the whole dash hum like a swarm of bees😲 Later there was briefly a generation of 'low voltage' valves. Soon superseded by transistors from 1948 on. (And NO I'm not pre '48 vintage, well not quite!😉) Looking forward to your progress reports. Would really love to witness one of your displays. Please keep me posted about dates. All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS building a transmitter to match won't be easy. A TX on the right frequency is relatively easy, the tricky bit is the 'modulation' for the control functions! Hats off to your guy 'up the road' if he manages it! I'd really really love to see THAT!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Seat Trials and mods.

It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

6 years ago by robbob

Blog

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

What Li-po?

I think that if you are considering changing to LiPo's then it is worth the complete transition and also move to brushless motors and appropriate speed controllers. However if you don't wish to go to the expense involved in such a move an appropriate battery size in Lipo would be 7.4v, the higher the capacity in mah will only increase the an mount of time it will last. I think the performance will prove to be exciting.

6 years ago by Flack

Blog

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

6 years ago by Rowen

Response

Power Cabling

Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

happy Hunter

work on renovating my Happy hunter is progressing but I need to decide on the battery and make location for it in the hull so that I can get the right amount of ballast in before proceeding any further .The question is what battery to use .The Hull has 2 motors fitted with gearboxes ,I think the motors are 540,s but there are no markings on them.I am thinking a 12volt SLA battery but would welcome some advice

7 years ago by spitfiresooty

Forum

46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery

Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

7 years ago by canabus

Blog

Battery Power and Servo Mounting 6

Only a short one, as I have realised that dealing with ing means I need to deal with changing the Rudder Servo first! (Pic 1) So to remove the servo was easy as was replacing with the better unit. it is by the way much easier to remove the Servo Bracket and then the Servo than leaving it in. Same naturally applies when fitting (Pic 2/3) I had to remember to have the lead coming out on the correct side though! (Pic 4) I had been thinking about whether I should be using proper metal linkages to the rudder mechanism and issues about ‘slop’, but now it looks like there will not be a choice, but let us leave that until later as this is going to be a short session. (Pic 5) In fitting the battery I was conscious that it has to pass in and out of that rear hatch, stay on the centre line and avoid fouling the Rudder Servo...................... So I cut a base plate of Balsa to stick in the bottom of the Hull so making it reasonably flat for the Battery and a Balsa Plank to stop the Battery accidentally moving towards the gear boxes. Before gluing them in place I attached Velcro/ hook and eye patches to hold the Battery in place. (Pic 6 ) There appears to be at least two thicknesses of this stuff, very rigid and strong and the other softer, more flexible and slightly less ‘grab power’ (Pic 7 ). I opted for the lighter stuff as it could be a struggle getting in and out of the Hatch! (Pic 8) I may need to put a loop of something around the battery to assist in removal, but that is for later. I just glued the Balsa in with ‘Gorilla’ glue and laid the battery in to add weight whilst drying (Pic 9/10/11) Next time I hope to concentrate on getting the forward platform loaded and the power linked up. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Blog

Electronics Down Below (5)

This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Motor problem

Reilly, I stand corrected I see what you are saying, the speed of the boat is just about right, if I fit a smaller prop then I will need a much faster motor to keep it at that speed then I presume the battery will not last as long, in fact that is something I would like to work out, although I am ok with wiring and working out loads at mains voltage etc. my ohms law is useless with DC voltage and mAh Haverlock I had a look at that motor but I see the recommended motor mount would block of the front air holes again (same mout as I have) Canabus thanks for that sounds expensive besides which I have spent out nearly, my pension does not really extend to this hobby, but enjoyment is important. I wonder if the last three words of the previous paragraph is a quote from some famous person I could add to the bottom of my posts😁

7 years ago by RichardSReade

Forum

Motor problem

Hi reilly4 I do not think it is as large as 60mm as it is a three bladed prop, if it was a two bladed one I would agree with you as the blades would be directly opposite each other hence 60mm, but being 3 bladed they are not 90 degrees to the centre point, without taking it off and drawing a circle around it to measure I would hazard a guess it is a 30mm prop. if memory serves me correctly the late Swindon Model Shop which was run by Yan who knew his stuff recommended the 540 motor along with the prop for the size of the boat. I will check the Sea Commander plans as I think it has the size of the required prop listed. Haverlock the motor is rated 4.5 to 15 volts and the battery is 7.2 volt, I would have to run the boat in water to see what the motor is drawing under load, I may get a tad wet trying to keep up with it to read an amp meter, or sink the boat by sitting on it😉 I think the overheat problem was to do with the motor mounting braket covering the front air slots on the motor. However I have a water scoop which I did not fit at the time of building so may retro fit and buy a new motor set up for water cooling, the next question would be where abouts do I fit it?

7 years ago by RichardSReade

Response

Windows

Hi All Still working on the windscreen. Ran the boat, well the hull, after moving the battery forward on the rails. Only used a 3S battery, but it sat on the water level at full speed. Turning was very good. The CG is 350mm from the stern if that help any of you setting up a Huntsman. Canabus

7 years ago by canabus

Forum

lipo storage charge

As I explained I was talking about charging at the end of my first post. For a novice I do believe video explanations are far easier to follow which is why I made my initial suggestion. I did not look at your first suggestion as it required me to download a pdf file from a source I do not know. The other two sites both suggest it is safe to discharge down to 2.5v per cell - may have been when written but modern cells should be kept above 3v and I try to keep mine nearer 3.5 v. I also see they recommend charging at 2C from storage! If you buy a 3 cell LiPo mine are delivered with an 11.1v storage charge which equates to 3.7v per cell. I did once watch a very long and detailed video made by a developer and manufacturer of LiPo batteries and learn't that at 3.7v the cell was in its most stable state (chemically wise) consistent with long life and storage. If the battery has any charge I do believe the amount of damage will be the same, but perhaps more spectacular if fully charged. Most modern chargers from reputable suppliers will provide a safe charging and storage charge. Providing your charger is setting the right voltages no harm should occur. As they say a video says a thousand words and the one I suggested covered the Imax B6 very comprehensibly.

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

1/35 Vosper MTB

I would go for a single Brushless solution 1200-1500KV with a 2S LiPo battery, this will help on the amount of weight you have to add to the model.

7 years ago by Tica

Response

Electrics are in and working!

Hi Skydive, can i make a suggestion, lay the battery on its side, get the weight as low as possible, she is a round bilge hull and will be prone to rolling. It might only require a slight trim to the speaker mounting to get it to fit. Regards Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

Forum

PROBOAT RECALL 17

Seeing the battery I would expect you could fit a larger capacity without lowering the waterline too much. if you can find the weight of the proposed battery try adding that amount of lead to the model to test. I'd use the existing battery plus a bit of lead etc. I suspect the higher capacity will make for some interesting sailing so you may need your bike clips! There could also be a heat problem so do check the motor esc after a short warp speed run. Please post progress

7 years ago by Dave M

Blog

Layout and Limitations

Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Response

Lights all wired up

Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!

7 years ago by GrahamP74

Forum

Aero Kit - Sea Queen

I purchased and built this kit, did not have any problems but found the supplied brushed motor was inadequate for the performance I required. So installed an overlander T4250 brushless motor with a 45mm prop. changed the battery for an overlander Lipo 4500 mA battery, fusion Hawk 60amp ESC. totally different boat as to the performance. Slight modification to the motor mount was required.

7 years ago by appstore

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔 Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place. Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime. Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step; fabricate new propshaft and mount the brushless. In between perhaps something on the PT 109. Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times. Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. it worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. it was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

7 years ago by octman

Forum

Deans Seaplane tender

Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for outrunner brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.

7 years ago by epmbcmember

Blog

CORDENE

After a slight pause (6 months since last post 😱) have finally found some time between family and work commitments to push things forward a bit. A bit short on workspace at the moment as garage and office is chocca (Hi Dad - when we move house can you look after some stuff for us...?) so have spent some time practicing battery charging, and setting all the electrics and basic R/C controls up on a little test rig. The blue support for the prop drive shaft is a bit of a clip-on folder binder strip I stole. The shaft is held perfectly. I'll keep this in reserve as a possible means of mounting things in the hull, when the time comes. I have a 2000mAh Nimh battery powering a 10A Deans marine ESC. The receiver is a Devolution Devo RX1002, the servo an Align DS520 (both salvaged from my foray in to the lunacy that is R/C helicopters). The motor is a Deans marine KYTE. Just messing with the white metal prop for now, will obviously use the nice shiny brass one I bought on the proper build.

7 years ago by ThatSinkingFeeling

Forum

Skimmer from Mobile Marine

Hi Chris Mine just has a large flat ply plate over the bottom of the hull with the rx rudder servo and battery fixed in place. I use velcro for the rx and made mounting blocks for the servo. An aircraft snake connects to the rudder. The battery is in a small wooden compartment. My ESC is just below the motor mount hanging loose. You do need to strengthen the motor mount - I used lots of wood inside to make it all less pliable - the plastic is not strong enough on its own. You need to build a plinth to attach the motor high enough to attach your prop. This need to be well braced to take the thrust from the prop. Mine moves slightly and if I were to make another I would make it stronger. Mine required two small sheets of lead up front to keep it on the water at speed. Please post details of your build Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Response

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2

Hi All Only installed the battery floor and mounted the servo today. Can-a-bus

7 years ago by canabus

Blog

Tarpon Furniture

Hello, Painting the "Furniture", Hull, Battery Box, Motor mount and rudder servo box, which includes the all important radio setup, Set-up of throttle and rudder servo, direction and throw. Muddy....

7 years ago by muddy

Blog

DAMEN STAN 4207

Repositioned 2/3 of the battery weight 8” sternwards into the only convenient location available. Rewired so the battery segments remain in series and the 7.2 volts operating voltage retained. Was able to retest and determined that adding 4.5 oz of ballast at the stern established a similar waterline to one of the pictures the model is based upon. Considered moving the remaining battery cells sternwards to avoid ballast, but this would be difficult due to the internal configuration of the model. The effect of saving the 4.5 oz ballast on a 9 lb model would have little discernible effect of the waterline, am thus reconciled to adding a small lead weight of up to this amount under the stern slipway. The next step is to complete the stern R.I.B and devise a launch / recovery mechanism. Whatever the weight of these item turns out to be will need to be subtracted from the 4.5 oz and become the final ballast weight.

7 years ago by Rowen

Directory

(Naval Ship) HMS Belfast

Performance not yet known, still in the fitting out dock. Power is actually 2 x 6V 4Ah. ESC will be Graupner Navy V30R. Maybe 2 for differential control to support rudder. I've left 'Number of Props' as Please Select cos Belfast has 4 and this ain't an option!! Long term plans for smoke (borrowed from model railway kit!) lighting and gun control. Have already bought magicians 'Flash Paper' for main battery gun flashes. Ignition using old 'out of work' glow-plugs? Any ideas welcome :-) Ship is Graupner Premium line. NOT IMPRESSED with quality of cast resin parts, lots of air bubble depressions :-/ Fair amount of rework / repaint necessary! (Motor: Speed 540 x 4) (ESC: Navy VR30 or Viper Marine. Trials on 40MHz then 2.4GHz DX6) (7/10)

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

San Pedro Push Boat

It wasn't jammed that tight a full reverse got him clear, he had forgot it had a that shape of bow, the idea as it carried a lot of Lead and house Bricks (kept at lakeside as ballast), we thought it would slice its way through, we then tried my Norfolk Broads Boat it had the right shaped bow and easily run up the ice and like an icebreaker its weight snapped the ice, all was fine until battery shifted and became disconnected, so after my brother nudge it in, we tried my Racing boat it's battery was mounted more securely and as long as we didn't let ice get to thick it worked fine :-)

7 years ago by Peter47

Blog

The searchlight, making it light up and turn.

After a bit of head scratching I think I have a plan 😉 I bought a Turnigy mini servo, a servo tester and a battery pack from Hobbyking, and a 3w white LED and reflector from Maplins. The LED is mounted on quite a large heat sink and needed trimming down to fit inside the searchlight body, I checked all the time for continuity and that the conductive tracks on the heat-sink would not short to the metal body, I drilled a hole in the underside of the body for the wiring and epoxied the LED in place. I temporarily connected a dropper resistor and battery pack to the LED and ran it for a few minutes to test the heat gain which was negligible, clearly the metal I removed from the heat-sink is amply made up by the mass of the white metal body. The servo was temporarily fixed in place with a couple of screws so that I could test the rotation with the servo tester (at this time I didn't have any radio gear) . It works a treat ! 😀 The servo was then mounted within the WF3 windscreen former with the output spigot directly below the proposed searchlight position, a supporting structure and a retaining bar holds it in place as I don't intend to permanently fix it. I will cut an access hole in the cabin roof below the hatch to allow access to the bracket so that the servo can be replaced if required. I'll make a lens and protective grid later and also re-make the searchlight cradle and base in brass as the white metal one is just too flimsy and would bend and break in no time. Now I can get on with the rest of the cabin construction 😁

8 years ago by robbob

Forum

Scudder

I would agree with Haverlock's advice so far and would add the BRChobbies is a good supplier of motors/Esc and batteries. I have used them in the past and their products are 1st class. I also believe you will need a much beefier motor and ESC (your wattmeter) will give you the amps and watts used so you will be able to avoid cooking and electrics. NiMh batteries give good power but for your application you need lots of power and LiPos are the best choice. Going back to my flying days it was usual the try several different sizes and pitches of propeller before the optimum was achieved. You cannot just add any prop to a brushless motor as they require a load that enables them to work within their wattage. That is why you need a Wattmeter so you can check and also make sure you are not exceeding the ESC rating or overloading the battery capacity. This is important with LiPos as they should not be discharged below about 3.3v but this should be marked on the batteries. Many ESCs have a built in cut off that can be set to the correct value. Unlike other batteries LiPos change internally if abused and there have been many instances where fires have resulted. U-tube has many examples. If you are new to LiPos then you need to be aware of the correct charging procedure using a dedicated charger. LiPos should never be charged unattended and preferably in a charging bag in an area near to an outside door should the need arise. I have used LiPos for many years without incident so correct use will reduce the chance of any accidents. As with any high speed high power setup you do need to make sure everything is securely fastened and the wiring neat and of the correct capacity. I once cooked a motor because I had not secured it correctly, I now always use bolts locknuts and washers, and check the mounting before every sail. Good luck and some pics and perhaps video on water would be good to see Dave

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

700 to brushles direct replacement

Hi Derek The best 700 revs at 19000 rpm and has a 5mm shaft. power is about750watts. So a 3639-1100kv(800watts) 16280 rpm on 4S Lipo battery or a 3648-1450kv(1600 watts) on 4S 21460rpm. Both require a 60 Amp ESC. The mount holes on these are 25mm apart, I cannot find the mount hole size for the 700's.

8 years ago by canabus

Forum

Palm beach

Hi Derek Just looked on U-tube to see what this model looks like. As a fast speed boat it would really perform best with a brushless and LiPo. As you already have brushless ESCs this would seem to be your best option. If you are not using LiPos at present then you could use NiMhs whilst you experiment. You will not need a massive brushless motor. I don't know the exact size but a 35xx type may be suitable with a kv about the 1000 mark with your 12v battery. The prop is probably a two blade racing type which will be far to big for a brushless. Change to a smaller version so the motor is not overloaded. if you have or can borrow a watt/ampmeter you can measure the current and make sure it is below your motor and ESC max rating by testing whilst holding the boat prop in the water. Due to the high revs you do need to make sure your motor and shaft are well aligned and that the motor is very securely mounted. I speak from experience. Good luck Dave

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

BEC Circuits.

HI Shaun, I get what you want to do, but you actually have two separate circuits inside one boat, very much like my Fireboat build, so its difficult to share one on/off switch, as you are in fact joining the two circuits by doing this, there is however a fix! Firstly, bin those rubbish esc switches, they are the Achilles heel in an otherwise decent esc. The esc is waterproof, the switch isn't, and is a constant failure point of these esc's. Cut them off, solder the wires together, they are now permanently on. Thing now is, the receiver needs tro arm before the esc's, and depending how fast they are, this might not happen, remember the problems I had with the Fireboat doing this. Attached is a picture of my recent PCF Boat build, look at the illuminated switch on the left. The two esc's via a "Y" lead are connected to this switch, it takes a normal servo lead style connector. The rx is then connected to this. You can also see there is another slot (unused in the pic) where you can connect something else, like a light switch etc. So, connect your batts, I assume you are using the esc becs? (I would recommend not doing this, use a separate battery source for your receiver, as in my pic) and turn the switch on to power the rx. Now to achieve what you want, I would have two switches, one in each of the positive leads on each esc, mount these where you want. A separate battery source for the rx, you can power the receiver up, then when armed, now power both esc's. Imagination to hide the switch, see my radio operatore, the box he is kneeling on, guess what's under the box? 😁 Paul

8 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Puffy lipos

HI All I agree with all the advice given. The web link is to a useful article. The only issue I have is his thoughts on charging unattended, especially as it is in his house. All the warning devices he has will not prevent the event only tell him after it has happened. The destruction is of a chain reaction type in that once started all the energy in the battery is dissipated almost instantly. Fires are usually caused by the red hot bits of metal ejected causing nearby flamable items to ignite, so the charging bags are very useful in preventing this happening. The other by product is a copious amount of white/grey smoke that you really don't want in your house. If you are doing other jobs then stay close and charge on a fireproof surface with any easy and quick access to a door or window. Even if you follow the basics regarding max charge voltage and min discharge voltage the cells can become puffy. it would appear that the technology is very stable at 3.7v per cell, which is why 3 cells are sold as 11.1v, but become less stable and prone to internal chemical changes at higher or lower voltages. I used to charge my batteries ready for next use so they were often stored in a charged state. As a result over time some became puffy and were discarded. The advice given in the article is correct but it perhaps needs emphasizing as it is an important parameter to keep batteries safe. Fully discharged batteries are safe to dispose locally and contain no harmful chemicals. Do check that it is permitted to use your local disposal point. Dave

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

what esc should I use with graupner 900 bb motors

hI guys just trying to find suitable speed contollers for my tito nerI tug boat which has 2 graupner bb900 motors that I would like to run on a 12 volt lead acid battery. My other tug the fairmount alpine is useing 2 tazer 60 amp constant esc with 2 torpedo 500 motors. Any suggestions?

8 years ago by tugboatguy

Forum

Sea Queen

You can use a dry cell battery BUT you will be sadly disappointed by the results. it would also prove to be expensive. Rechargeable batteries are more expensive to buy BUT work out much cheaper in the long run even when you count in the cost of a recharger. Also dry batteries cannot supply the same current all dry batteries use a chemical reaction to provide current and trying to draw to heavy a current will cause them to "gas up" reducing the amount of current they can supply. A speed 900 is enough of a motor to move your sea queen around you need an ESC to control speed and direction (of the motor) the motor will be at its best running on 12 volts so consider a lead acid accumulator http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/lead_acid_batteries.html some examples.

8 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Sea Queen

HI Laurence Brushless will give you much greater power but will require a brushless ESC. Lipo batteries are very efficient and will give you much greater power to weight ratio than other batteries. On the down side they need to be treated with respect in regard to charging and the minimum discharge voltage. Exceeding these set parameters will damage (irreversibly) the battery and in the worst case can result in the battery self destructing. Providing you follow the manufacturer's guidelines and use a good balanced charger and an ESC with a cutoff mechanism the risks are minimal. I do not know how knowledgeable you are with your modelling so apologise if I am teaching you to suck eggs! You do not have to use Lipos as NiMh will work, just not as fast. I used a 42-38 750Kv outrunner motor purchased from Giant Shark, sadly no longer trading. Outrunners are generally more suited to model boats but you can use inrunners which are in a can similar to a brushed motor.There are many suppliers on line and the 42 related to the motor diameter and 38 is its length. The 750 relates to revs per volt so on 10v it would be 7,500 revs free running. I would avoid any motors above 1300KV as they will make your model too fast. My motor draws about 30 amps at full speed with a Prop Shop 40 (Sorry can't remember exactly, ask Simon and give him model and motor details). I use an 80 amp ESC that is forward only. I added my owm water cooling as well as making a watercooled block for the motor. You can buy ESC for boats with fwd/rev and water cooled as well as water cooled mounts for the motor. There are three wires between the motor and ESC and reversing any two of the connections will reverse the motor's rotation. Some Chinese will claim there ESCs are reversible because of this, so be careful to check that direction control is from the transmitter. Please ask if you require any further help or info Good luck with the restoration 😀 Dave

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

72'' 6S Brushless Power

25c batteries will I suspect be a limiting factor. if you run at a full 25c you can only pull 130A and that will lead to a much shorter battery life. http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html That's a pretty full treatise of the factors involved. To daw 130A you would in practice need 50c batteries. if you intend to run the batteries for more that one or two times. You WILL need a watt meter so you have some idea as to the actual current being used. Using a watt meter you can then find out what a prop/motor combo draws static and thus have some idea of the way to go. Sharpened balanced props are a MUST. Really if you just want speed have a look at the outriggers. They seem to run at insane speeds and since they are raced they have to be fettled to do it time after time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHC_0wS7P9M one example ( single shaft 60A ESC). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6ban1MMgUY actual race footage. The simple facts are the less of a boat in the water the faster it CAN go, this is independent of how much power you have. So hydroplanes are the faster hull type. if your intending to design your own I doubt you can better them for speed. Hull design is paramount when it comes to speed, no amount of power will make a badly designed hull go blisteringly fast. Sorry if I seem to be negative but I hate the idea of a lot of money and enthusiasm being thrown at a probable failure.

9 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Sea commander

Alan The mfa 850 is heavy on the amps, a small 4ah battery wont last long, I personaly dont use LiPo's, I use NmHI cells, 6volt 3700mah packs coupled in series for 12 volt. Mine came from component shop but you can get them from many supplyers. My boat is a 34" Huntsman with a Turnigy 35/42 1000kv outrunner motor. (Goes like stink!!!) it also has a water cooled motor mount Depends if you want to change the setup you have? the Turnigy will give the power you want but you will need to change your ESC Mark

9 years ago by jarvo

Directory

(Naval Ship) A Russian Warship

This is a Russian plastic kit, 30cm long. The prop is handmade as it is only 10mm in diam, funny prop selection does not go down to this size, why? 500mAh lipo, also not shown in battery rating. The receiver is Spektrum. I have had to mount the rudder servo so the arm points downwards any other way protrudes above the deck. The rudder and linkage is also hand made. The deck will be glued in place, possibly with a silicone so that it could be removed in the event of a disaster. Pictures will be updated until it sinks! lol. Why am I trying to convert it to RC you may ask? Because I was told for a first attempt at converting a plastic model don't do a warship as there is no room inside, the challenge was just too tempting. (ESC: 10 amp) (5/10)

9 years ago by HoweGY177

Forum

Wiring query

Thanks for reminding me that there is a constant drain on the battery from the ESC, I had forgotten that point. It is impossible to get the switch in, remember the boat is only 300mm long and 30mm wide and at the tallest point in the super structure from the hull bottom is only 35mm. The whole length of the keel from aft is taken up with, rudder, link and servo, then the speed controller that is mounted over the shaft, then the motor followed by the 2 cell lipo and finally the receiver leaving about 10mm at 'the sharp' end. Any switches and access for charging has to be somewhere in the superstructure of the boat. I think I am coming around to thinking of 4 x 2mm gold connectors, 2 to the battery and 2 to the ESC, links would connect the lives and neutral whilst the boat is in operation. The link will be removed and extension leads plugged in to the battery connections for charging. The balance lead would be fixed under another part of the superstructure that was made removable and an extension plugged into this for charging. I will add this to my fleet at a later date showing the construction. Any other suggestions that would take up less room would be welcome but thank you everyone for your help, some very valid points have raised that I have included in the build. Vic

9 years ago by HoweGY177