Forum

powered winches for pusher tug.

I wanted to be able to attach a barge to the bow pusher posts of my Egrete Pusher tug. BUT did not want to simply use a couple of bits of elasticated rope, would not really look "right" or would be prone to failure. So after a bit of searching around I found a nice little geared motor set/kit In Maplins, think It was only A£9.99 or less, I know Is wasn't much. Anyway, It was possible to swap teh gears about a bit till I got the speed of the winch drum to a nice slow pace, so not to grab at the winch cables too quickly and cause problems. The motor assembly comes with Its own mounting plate, so nice and easy to mount Inside the winch house of the pusher tug, the cables ran through the actual cable pipes through the forward bulkhead. All I had to do was make sure that the actual "tow posts" on the barge were bonded deep In to the hull of the barge, to take the load, especially when turning. The motor operates on 3v so I just used a maplins twin AA , and wired up a couple of micro switches on top of a normal servo. So by using one channel of the transmitter, I now had "in/out" control over the winch via one of the joysticks.

12 years ago by Gregg

Forum

Billing’s Boat J-502-Progress

Small boats have less access below the deck. I might use a flat instead of the quad shown here. The model tested well in the laundry tub under power. Much left to do yet, glad the electronics work. A mini rudder servo is being added.

5 years ago by Ronald

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH s - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.

5 years ago by reilly4

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander . I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

Victoria

Jacko, Like your boat and your mention of attaching all gear to the underside of the round hatch, good idea. I did this once on a racing yacht and it was great, could just pull off and access all electronic, the was placed low in the hull for low CG. Not my design, but a Swede Johnson design and molds. I will have to keep this in mind for my future design builds. Regards, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Media

Electric Barbarella

Ahoy Maties! it's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. it measures 24 X 8.5 inches. it is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁

5 years ago by Krampus

Directory

(Racing Boat) skytech H101

skytech racing boat with water cooled engine.lts capable of 18 knots ! it has a self righting function and came with a spare ,prop,oil and spanner. hope to have some fun with my grandson. (Motor: 380 water cooled) (8/10)

5 years ago by keithtindley

Blog

fuses

Schnellboot Radio control setup 3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors (running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts) 3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s Batteries are 1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH 2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH All Batteries are 7.2 V I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help

5 years ago by teejay

Blog

Internal wiring & bottom skins

Because I am keen to conceal as much of the wiring as possible I have decided to place the battery at the bow and the operational equipment at the stern, the engine on the original boat was central and covered with a soundproof box and this is convenient as the motor can be positioned and concealed in the same way. This means that some of the wires will have to run the full length of the boat and the easiest way to conceal them is to run them beneath the ‘box’ around which the hull is formed, and this needs to be done before the bottom skins are fitted. Holes were bored through the bulkhead formers under the port side of the hull and battery cables were run to the stern where the ESC will be and three motor wires from the ESC run to the centre, emerging near the motor position. For good measure I put in a servo cable and a separate draw wire just in case I needed to put more cabling in for any additional features, perhaps working navigation lights? Satisfied that I had all the cabling in place I was able to fit the bottom skins starting with the starboard side first. Before doing so I put a very slight 'hollow' in former F1 which should help blend the shape of the the hull where the ply skins meet the balsa blocks that will to be carved and shaped to form the bow. This can be seen in the last picture. The process of forming and fixing the skins is the same as for the side skins but in addition to the pins holding the skins in place I used some brown polythene ‘packing tape’ to pull the skins tightly against the bulkhead formers and strakes. The packing tape has a very high tensile strength and is ideal for this, and of course cheap and easy to remove. Once the aliphatic glue had set thoroughly overnight I removed the excess from the skins with a small block plane and finished them with my sanding plate. Before I fit the skin at the stern I will have to arrange the water cooling for the ESC, with the pickup just behind the prop and the outlet on the stern. I’ll cover that aspect in the next update.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Smoke/steam output for models

Here is the vaporiser I have managed to scrounge, its missing it's , but have tested with a borrowed . I am thinking of using a small cylinder pump like a bicycle tyre pump, running on a crank, with its own speed controller allowing for a gentle puff-puff at low speeds, and speed it up for getting a more constant stream of vapour. Another option is a 12v air pump from a fish tank setup, another item in my oddments box. All ideas will be considered before starting the build. I think it should work with most of my larger scale models as it works either vertical or horizontal. Give me your views, cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Mixer

Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mixer

Hi all, another one for Doug , can you recommend a receiver for my setup

6 years ago by teejay

Forum

Got the bits, now what?...

OK, I bought a LiPo tother day and some connectors. This is now what I have.....a motor with little (2mm?) connectors on its wires, a 60Amp ESC with no connectors at all and an Overlander battery with a square plug on the end (Deans, is it) I also have a packet of ten 4mm bullets and heat shrink. What now? Cut the Deans connector off the battery and replace with bullets, or buy a Deans connector for the ESC to battery? Cut off the little bullets on the motor and replace with the big ones which I should put on the ESC, too? I suppose I'll have to increase the size of the hole in the ally heat plate next to the motor to accommodate the bigger bullets. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Got the bits, now what?...

Actually British people tend to go for "adaptor" for electrical equipment and "adapter" for people, although I have never seen, to my knowledge, the latter used in a body of writing. What I needed and have ordered from Wales, is a Deans male to fit into the battery because I didn't want to change the battery connector for all your excellent reasons, going to a pair of 4mm bullet connectors. Bullets because I have a pack of 10 already and I believe I may have a few more in a box of bits. So I have ordered a Deans male one end of a 50mm length of 12 gauge wire to a male and a female bullet. All the other connectors will be bullets. The bullets on the motor are 2mm diameter and I will keep them as the wires are short and I don't want to fiddle with them, so I have some 2mm females coming, which will go on the ESC motor wires. 4MM bullets on the ESC to fit the new adaptor and we're there. The ESC already has a receiver plug fitted. Thanks for the link. They look like a good source for the future. Now Giant Cod has gone, where would be a good place for cheap brushlesses? Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Hobby King receiver clones

Colin, I first entered the world of proportional RC with a set called a Mini-Hex, in 1971. I bought it from the model shop in the arcade in Exeter. it cost a bloody fortune! 2 Function, essentially a copy of the Kraft set, but made in Belvedere, Kent. I still have it and as far and I know it still works, except the old DEAC is defunct, of course. it even came with it's own metal cased charger. Green frequency only, can't be changed! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Motor size advice

I am building the Thornicroft MTB MM337 (again) I last built one many years ago and put a small diesel engine in it at that time. However, I plan to go all electric R/C on this one and would appreciate advice as to what size, (Make /Model) type of motor could be used. Also which for the motor. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

6 years ago by Morkullen

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

Sorry but when you said 6v I assumed it was a SLA so your NiMh, must be a 5 cell as they come in multiples of 1.2v. So I agree the simplest solution is a Rx and disconnect the BEC supply. (May need to remove +ve wire from ESC(s) plug?)

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

Help required please, I have two Graupner Jumbo 540 6volt motors in an eboat circa 1978, I had fitted an Mtroniks speed controller replacing the Bob's board only to find that when the voltage dropped below 6 volts down to 5.6 volts I was experiencing intermittent operation of the esc. I have been informed by Mtroniks that the minimum voltage for operation of the esc is 6volts. Graupner have also confirmed that the maximum voltage for the Jumbo 540 motors is 6 volts. Do I have any alternatives other than refitting the Bob's board?

6 years ago by Will-I-Am

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

I think it would be worth the risk of running the DC Motors at 7.2v (NiMh) or second choise 7.4v (Lipo) and get rid of the 6v lead acid battery. The chance of damaging the motor is limited, the s will be lighter than an equivalent lead acid, but will need to by a charger as well. Always put a fuse in line rated 5 amps below that of the ESC. Or buy two higher voltage motor? only £6.99 each plus P&P link copy and paste into browser address:- https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/graupner-speed-600-8-4v-motor/

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Doug, is that the Rx with stabiliser that you had trouble with? And what exactly does a stabiliser do in a model boat? And don't say "stabilise". If I did do airyplanes they would be smallish as I don't have space for big stuff and then you're into IC with fuel costs or big s for big expensive brushlesseseseses. I must admit, whilst the really fast boats make you think, "Bloody hell" a few times they do become boring. Actually I find they all become boring as there isn't the involvement as with an aircraft, which is why I thought sailing models would be a good compromise. if I lived in a hilly area I would be a slope soarer, but I live in the Flatlands! Now flying boats/floatplanes is an idea, but you'd need a large body of water. I wonder if you could make a ducted fan Bluebird K7? Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

Photos

Working on the hull and superstructure ,The hold lifts out to allow access my brothers going to do the mechanical side for me he has a motor no details yet , etching will be in the hold covered by dummy coal ,That's the theory anyway

6 years ago by marky

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi, Doug: Sorry about that. Where power enters the circuit board the reading is 8.08 volts, same as the 7.2V when it’s fully charged. That sounds like something from an Abbott & Costello routine! 😎😎

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Hi folks, I have just received the 5 cell for my yacht R/C gear, but it come with no words and music, so I don't know if it's charged or not and am worried about using it with RC gear in case being under charged is dangerous to the gear. I also have a brand new, never used imax B6 charger. Never used because I can't make head nor tail of the instructions. Can anyone help me with all this lecktrickery, please? Beyond 4 AAs in a wall wart I am completely green with battery charging. (BTW, why wall WART exactly?) Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my s have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. it went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. it was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? it all works, perfectly, out of the box. it's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! it musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? it currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

17-28 Torbay Severn Lifeboat

The Southampton has lots of screws around the deck but some are under the bollards so you need to remove them, there are two aft bollards which need to be gently prised loose but the others are scewed to the bulwarks. I changed the radio in mine as well as the motor/gearboxes and fitted a v.tail mixer from www.mr-rcworld.co.uk with 2 speed contollers as well as converting the battery holder to take a six volt nimh pack. The effect is awesome. Happy sailing😁

6 years ago by TheBlacksmith

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Help, Doug!! I just bought a pack of gold plated 4mm plugs for my iMax charger. it didn't come with any! Leads for everything else, but no way of plugging them in unless they're LiPos, which I know nothing about. The plugs turned up today, BUT, the hole in the top is HUGE! How does one go about soldering a fiddly little wire into such a massive 'ole! They come with red and black heat shrink, but only for AFTER you get the battery wires into the plugs. I'm assuming I'll have an "other half" plug to plug the wire into, which I can then solder these mahusive plugs onto. Why is all this stuff so bloody difficult?! Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Doug, the loaner was bound to the guy's DX5e in DSMX, but I will keep saying for pmdevlin's sake that both Orange Receiver and my Tx. says compatible with both protocols, but the Spektrum loaner wouldn't bind. I bought a 6 volt Rx especially for this and it's giving just over 6Volts. I bought 4 new Duracells for the TX. (all said above), so all is well on the volts front. The Orange in fact is OK for 3.7-9.4 volts it says. I did all you suggest , but no flashing lights on TX and no end OR change to the frequency of, flashing lights on Rx, either of them. Doug, isn't your stabiliser Orange Rx. also compatible with both? When did orange go single protocol, I wonder. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hello, Doug: I had everything ready to take the voltage readings this morning except for one minor detail: the 7.2v was dead so I had to plug it in to charge. it should be ready by mid-afternoon today. in the meantime I’ve got a few questions about connectors. As I said earlier I want to install connectors in the existing wiring that runs up into the deck house & pilot house. I’ll do the same with the new wiring that’ll go to the mast LEDs, too. I’d like to use miniature multi-conductor plugs & sockets with male & female conductors that solder onto the cut & stripped wires. Presently there are (10) wires for LED lighting, (2) for the pilot house lamp, (2) for the smoke generator & (2) for the smoke “blower” - (16) wires all together. At this point I don’t know how many wires there’ll be all together. Do you think a single connector for all of the wires is a good idea or would it be better to use several small connectors? Last of all, do you know of a source for small or miniature connectors? Radio Shack’s site lists connectors but they look too bulky. The conductor pins & sockets used with them appear to be designed for much larger gauge wires than the skinny wires in the tug. I’ve looked at several other sites but the technical nomenclature used for something as simple as connectors give me a headache. Help, please?

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Blog

M.V. TEAKWOOD

Water trials have been delayed by trying to resolve the challenges with my HMS Brave Borderer project drivetrain. As those efforts have been halted, waiting for new components, decided to complete the Teakwood water trails. First battery trails used 8 x 1.2 Ni-Mh cells is series, giving 9.6 volts. This was unsuccessful as the battery life was only minutes. Lesson from this is not to buy cheap Ni-Mh cells from an Oriental source. Tried 2 x 7.4 Ni-Mh packs is series giving 14.8 volts. Vessel was far too fast and throttle control poorly modulated. Was thinking of fitting a voltage reducer with this battery layout so could adjust the top speed. Have done this before and it works well. When searching in my box of bits found a voltage step up increaser. Never used this before so rewired the Ni-Mh packs to parallel and adjusted the output voltage to 10 volts to see how it worked. Result is a nicely performing model with an usable top speed potential for emergency, Duration of the first run comfortable exceeded 1 ½ hours, which am satisfied with. The cells are positioned around mid hull to supplement the fitted ballast. From the pictures the model has all the grace and style of the original vessel and sails well. In conclusion, a successful project that justifies the many hours spent in building and refining the model

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Doug, if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model. I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up. The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. it is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. if you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top. So, what else can it be? I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month. Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too? Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Evenin' Martin, What does "uppermost" mean ?? The negative (black) of the battery lead should be towards the edge of the RX. The red positive is always in the middle however you put the plug in. The Bind plug is only a short circuit between the negative and signal pins. it should ONLY EVER be put into the socket labelled "Bind/VCC". The battery you can put in any other socket, Black towards the edge of the RX case. NOTE: in the DX5e manual there is a warning about Binding and connection problems when the TX is very close to the RX, less than 4 feet, and/or if there are metal objects close to either TX or RX. The latter can cause reflections of the TX signal to be interpreted as interference or 'noise' and prevent connection. The RX looks for a series of uncorrupted signal packets to be able to Bind, and subsequently 'connect' to it's own TX. Binding simply 'teaches' the RX the GUID (Global Unique IDentification) of 'it's own' TX. Try the binding out in the garden (take a brolly with you as required 😁) away from metal objects and walls etc. With TX and RX at least 6 feet apart. Good luck, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Warped wood

Vero also from The Component Shop in N.Wales .Order £ 3 or more/of anything/ from them and get a free catalogue. Excellent firm / service. s made to order if what you want isn't in Catalogue. Just one example of their great service.😋👍

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the . Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your s in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

as a rule of thumb charge your the night before you intend to take your model out to play ( that includes your transmitter). As to binding step 1 with binding plug in power up the receiver look for a rapid flashing light step 2 power up the transmitter with the bind switch held ON. rapid flashing light should change to solid power everything down remove bind plug and keep it safe. Since I have never used the spectrum that's the best I can do. an afterthought you say you have never removed the bind plug are you sure its actually plugged in where it should be not just " parked" for transit?

6 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

as to charging and discharging a . if you leave an NiMH pack untouched for long enough it winds up DEAD, So if your not using a pack for any length of time you should cycle it every couple of months. if your using a pack regularly and just " topping up" the charge again its a good idea to cycle it occasionally to keep the capacity ( I know NiMH are not supposed to have the " memory" problems NiCads had but.......). Yes the charger senses the battery condition and stops when charged. However its good practice to never leave a charger running unattended and to touch the pack often to make sure its not cooking.

6 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

ok step 1) plug in your charger step 2 ) keep hitting the STOP button until you can see "Program select NiMH BATT" step 3) press start step 4) a status button until you see "NiMH CYCLE DCHG>CHG 1" connect up your and press start!

6 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Fittings & Detail Parts

Hi, Doug: Either of the two file formats you mentioned (.docx or .pdf) is fine, whichever one is easiest for you. Speaking of .pdf files, do you (or anyone else reading this) know of a website where I can download a user manual for the 27mhz or 40mhz versions of Hobby Engine’s tugs? From the details you mentioned in your manual it seems like it has useful information that’s not even mentioned in my 2.4ghz version booklet. My manual doesn’t mention anything about the rear hatch, for example. I don’t know if there’s anything about maintenance in your manual but mine has nothing at all. it seems odd that there’s nothing written at all about prop shaft lubrication or other basic maintenance. My six page booklet tells about installing AA batteries in the transmitter & how to place the 7.2v in the boat. There’s nothing about how long the 7.2v battery should be charged or how to charge it properly. Very strange.

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

drum sail winch questions...

Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

advise required

Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

6 years ago by teejay

Response

Dremel !

Good luck on the sea trails!👍 Can't wait to see the video.... Yes, will definitely mind my fingers!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Dremel !

Here in Old Munich as well, washed out my Sea Scout trial planned for today😭 Looks like being and rainy and thundery week. Got everything packed in the rucksack ready to go if it brightens up; now let me see ... selection of drive batteries to test, in LiPo bag - check, Capacity / cell tester - check, TX and spare batts - check, Camcorder (batt fully charged) - check, Drying cloth - check, Basic tool set & Mini-multimeter- check, Bath towel if I have to swim again - 😡 Inflatable rescue kayak - !? Essential provisions (just a wee dram Officer) 😋 - check, Foam block boat stand - check, OH!! THE BOAT!! 😲 Might stick the PTB in the car as well, just to try it before I start on the reno and upgrade / conversion to PT109. in for a penny .....! Happy Dremelling Ed, mind yer fingers! Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Dremel !

I just received my replacement Dremel ! It charged in 1 1/2 hrs. Now, I can continue my build of the Brooklyn! Oh, we're having another rainy day here in New England!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Tamiya Tape!

I've placed an order for some Tamiya tape. As Doug, RNinMunich recommended! Trying to cleanup the waterline on the Brooklyn! Oh, Had to order a new . for my wireless Dremel also! Does anyone know of a good electronics place one can order resisters from?

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Radio in a yacht

Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

47'' Fireboat power question

Hi Rolfman, This one is for you.....I wouldn't fit a 6 cell Li-Po to run your 47 inch fireboat!..It would be uncontrollable almost, even if you throttled back. That relates to an output speed in excess of 11,000 rpm at the prop. Safer to try a 5 cell (9,250rpm) or even a 4 cell (7,400) initially. Also see my message to Shaun. I use a G60 in mine with 4 cells which is ample, the extra in Shauns will double the running time. I only use 1 cell. I use a 50mm two blade Hydro Graupner prop (From Gliders UK), it could handle a bigger one but everything starts to get a bit warm!! Cheers......Ron.

6 years ago by ronrees

Forum

47'' Fireboat power question

Hi Shaun, This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this. The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern. We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed. It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main. I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your s forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane. Have fun, best of luck. Ron Rees

6 years ago by ronrees

Forum

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute

Doug, when l purchase the compact from the web site you advised, do you think l need to purchase a different charger? I have a sprint charger that l was using for the longer that will not fit into the St Canute. Cheers Richard

6 years ago by Richard7

Forum

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute

Hi Richard, so far Ron has been right on the button 👍 and just beat me to it on the planking. BTW: Planning is half the game, so first split the planking packs into two equal sets. Offer up the shorter planks to the framing to see where to cut with absolute minimum wastage. MEASURE TWICE OR THRICE AND CUT ONCE!! is the maxim😉 Work on alternate sides to minimise twisting of the hull. Good luck. The second batt Ron suggests should be your solution as it's only about 68mm long. The 'inline' pack you have is about 105mm. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-2v-3700mah-sc-nimh-compact-battery-pack-hbz6512.html Actually the Billing instructions (such as they are🤔) recommend an 8.4V pack, but since you have fitted a more powerful motor than recommended this 7.2V pack should throttle it back a bit 😉 Run time probably less than with the 400 though. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Dimensions of Hump Pack added; too long! 112mm😆

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute

hi Richard this is a hump back battery (pic 1) or you could use a compact battery (pic 2) both can be found at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/radio-control/large-power-packs/72v-84v.html You could change the motor for the smaller 400 type if you could find use for the 500 for something else but you have altered the framing to fit the 500 now so it would mean having to undo what you have done and at this stage do you think its worth the hassle only you can decide that. Ron

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

I have an Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat, what scale 20mm deck gun did you buy is it 1/24? Also I was thinking of powering mine with a Graupner 700BB Turbo motor and Nicad s or Lipo batteries. My hull doesn't have spray rails, should I fit some? Sorry for all the questions but I'm returning to powered model boats after a long absence! Thank you for any help received.

6 years ago by Biggles