Forum

Tooth belt drive

I have 3 sets of minature belt drive components I do not want and may be of use to others rather than rusting away In my garage. They are a bit big for a 34 Inch fire boat but may of use to make a reduction drive for bigger boats. The big pulley has36 teeth and weighs 152 grms small one Is 12 teeth and weighs 26 gms. I have some s but not enough for 3 complete sets. The shaft size Is 1/4 Inch. See attached picture. I anyone wants a set for cost of post and packing please contact me on 0117-956-8808 and I will give you details.

15 years ago by nasraf

Forum

Damen Stan 4207 Plans

I retired 4.1/2 years ago at 70. I've finished all the jobs Management set me, and have decided to try my hand at model making. I set my mind on making a model of HMC Searcher with the rib. I purchased a Sports Game Racing Boat, took off the top, lowered the RC pickup into the hull and remodelled the top to a good facsimile of the Delta rib. Because of the size of the doner hull I have to build the Searcher to a 1:32 scale. I have no drawings only those off the internet which are very sketchy. I would ask if the person (maybe RH Baker) with the plan drawings of the hull could let me have a copy. This is the first model I have ever made so you will all no doubt be hearing from me on a regular basis to tap your knowledge. Thank you for with me. RayA

5 years ago by RayA

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER STAND ADDITION

Re - Are the shafts ball at both ends? and can’t you get sealed s Hi Mike, they have dual s which are MF 74 flanged s - 4x7-(8.2)x2.5 - steel double shielded, so are quite small, and are a tight fit in the brass tube so I don't want to disturb them until I need to. I've ordered some Zokol branded s from Ali Express as future replacements' so I'll see what they are like when they come. I might order some MBA stainless s if they have them as well, as I know you can trust them to be good quality. Have found some Chinese s to be very soft and give out early, even though regularly lubed (planes) as against the better FAG, SKF, Koyo, Timken MBA etc which I've replaced them with which last for years, (haven't replaced a replacement yet in 10+ years) Not sure if you can get these particular mini s in a sealed version, (I haven't seen one in the mini s range) I've added the pic for others to view regarding lubrication, which may be of interest . (see also comment above to Martin. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: 36'' Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.

I use SAE 90 mixed with some additives to help it stick which seems to work ok Martin. I can't get grease into the shafts through the oiler tubes (Maiami and MTB) as I have to remove the rudders to take the shafts out which is a pain ( I could try and inject grease but it would take forever to get through and would probably just come out the top end anyhow). Grease is fine for plain shafts but with the new shafts I have ( for the ST) with double seal ball s each end, they will need filling with oil so it seeps through the s, (grease will just sit on the outside and not lubricate) Also, unless you use marine grade waterproof grease/oil with anti corrosion additives the shafts (and s) can still rust unless they are stainless or brass. I used to run my nitro boats in the salt water and even though I greased the shafts (steel) thoroughly every time, if I left them for a few months they would be quite rusty when I checked them (using std GP grease, -I always thought grease was grease). I've found it's a good idea to remove the shafts periodically to make sure they aren't 'growing' in the middle as if any rust gets too bad you may not get the shafts out.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build D

Motors I'll be trying in the ST are either the 'Gool' (black motor) 540 (replaceable ball s and brushes and adjustable timing) or the Feilun boat spare 540 motor complete with mount and cooling. Also bought 4x stainless 250mm driveshafts with ball s ( $8 NZ on a big discount on Banggood) remains to be seen how good the s are. Will be running twin motors through twin car ESCs.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Sea Commander restoration.

Thanks Mark 😊 Beauty is in the eye of the beholder 😉 It was a challenge for an electronicals man but I enjoyed it and hope it performs well for Colin in his Commander. I also fitted ball race s on the shaft and modified it to run forwards and backwards off a brushed ESC, and built him the necessary converter board to wire between the ESC and motor. In exchange he sent me a whole battleship! 😮 A Tamiya 1/350 King George V, and a boxful of mini motors. Can't say fairer n 'at can ya!? All the best, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Cooling the motor - an experiment.

Whilst I don’t think I’m going to need to cool the motor it got me thinking that it may be a useful experiment to see if the ‘Stick A Fan Blade On The End Of The Rotor’ idea would actually work 🤔 So while waiting for some glue to set on another part of the build I decided to rummage through the junk PC bits box and find an old fan of a suitable size, and I did indeed have on that would fit the bill 😀. I broke away the outer fan casing to release the motor and blades and then set about separating the fan blade, which proved fairly simple. The fan blade has an overall diameter of 45mm which is ideal and there’s a moulded-in centre mark so I used a step cutter to open up a hole to 10mm and then a tapered hand reamer to carefully open up the hole to about 11mm which is the diameter of the end stub on the rotor. The fan was then pushed onto this motor stub until it seated flush on the wide and end of the rotor can and is a very tight friction fit so it doesn’t need any more than that to hold it. I don’t have a dial gauge but I can tell by eye that the fan is perfectly centred and true and so it shouldn’t cause an imbalance 🤞. The motor turns clockwise when viewed at the fan end which means that the fan would be pulling air through the side vents , through the stator and around the rotor and would need to exhaust through a new panel cut into the end of the motor enclosure. The existing motor enclosure still fits perfectly over the motor and its fan and wouldn’t need any other modification than the extra opening and mesh. So in theory this arrangement will give forced ventilation and cooling of the motor in the event that there is a heat problem. In practice I’ve yet to wire up the motor to the ESC so I have not been able to run a proper test to check it actually works but I’m pretty confident of it. This motor cooling arrangement could prove useful to others when faced with a similar situation which I why I decided to conduct the experiment...... and validate my theory. Just keep your fingers away from the fan blades…..😨

5 years ago by robbob

Response

The motor cover.

I did consider somehow fixing some fins to the rotor to create some air movement or perhaps even glueing a very small fan blade, taken from a PC graphics card that I have in the junk box, to the end of the rotor but I fear that this could easily unbalance the motor and harm the s. I won't find out if my ventilation slots are effective until the sea trials 🤔

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

PROPELLERS

If you want to use a 4mm shaft, you will need to ream the s to fit. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Propshaft Lubrication

I used to use Liqui-Grease which was a clear liquid which solidified quickly leaving a grease filled whatever.I think it was silicone grease in a solvent which evaporated. No longer available as far as i can see but silicone grease diluted with meths might work. Great for chains and s on a bike so well enough for a little prop shaft. Very low drag too Seems to soften with movement.👍

5 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Propshaft Lubrication

Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon s for the lower which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Forum

Propshaft Lubrication

Greetings from Australia and Happy New Year. Hi Steve I have always lubricated my shafts with a 50/50 mixture of car grease and sump oil Thinned to a consistency to be Forced into the tube via a syringe. This seems primitive but I have never had a problem. Top up when you think it needs it. Some would shudder at this but works for me. Regards Sid

5 years ago by sidley70

Forum

Propshaft Lubrication

I have always used wheel grease. I have a brass tube fitted to the prop shaft which is the same diameter as a grease nipple so slides into the grease gun Yours Brian

5 years ago by scout13

Forum

steam water pump

Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the £250 mark, mind it does have ball race s on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

fuse holder

Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin s if you did that...

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Are these any good

Mornin' John, (Well it is here!) I have something very similar and it works well, was using it tonight to make some test leads for Colins Taycol Supermarine, which is chuntering away behind me running in it's new s 😉 If you don't already have such a tool Go for it👍 Benefit of that one is that it has interchangeable heads for different sizes, Better 'n mine 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Wild Duck Sailboat article

Mornin' John, Hows things 'Ol Mate'😉 Basically on a PC the 'Photos' App built into Windows 10 should do the job. Pic shows the opening window displaying the last photos I downloaded / Stored. i haven't experimented much with it yet but it should find any photos / pics on any drive, stick or memory card on your PC. If you are using a Smartphone I don't know, although most seem to have a 'Gallery' function built in! it will depend on which phone you have and which operating system it uses. Best thing to do there is look at the Apps already installed or in the Google or Microsoft App Stores. More later when I've fiddled with the 'Photos' App a bit more. Better shift to a new thread then as well, afore we're arrested for hijacking😲 (again😁)! At the moment I'm putting the finishing touches to Colin's Taycol Supermarine. Just reassembled it with new s and ran some tests using my prototype converter board. Runs fore and aft perfectly on a normal brushed ESC.😊 Will update the 'Supermarine Resurrection' blog shortly. All the best, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

A return to the hobby!

".....Ref your motor: I'm multiplexing myself between repairing fences and refurbing your motor! Reassembly has started; first new is in, will tackle the second tonight. Illustrated 'right up' 😁 to follow. Cheers, Doug 😎..." The Taycol website would appreciate a write-up if you have an interesting 'Taycol Tale' to tell....

6 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

A return to the hobby!

'Right On' Colin 👍😁 My first Boss (part owner of a small sub-contract outfit I worked for during my Sandwich Course days) used to say "If you've never made a mistake you've never made F... All"! 😲 He was a bit of a rough diamond but a great first Guvner! Ref your motor: I'm multiplexing myself between repairing fences and refurbing your motor! Reassembly has started; first new is in, will tackle the second tonight. Illustrated 'right up' 😁 to follow. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Wild Duck Sailboat article

Many thanks for the Snowberry tip John 👍 It's now your fault the Supermarine rebuild is delayed at least six months 😁😁😁 Actually although I have looked at several relevant build articles (without conversions to other navies configurations) I have done a bit on the rebuild. The new s have arrived and I've just arranged the fitting in one end plate. 😉 More soon, Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Search light

A working search light seems to be expected on this craft so here goes. Based on Robs build I purchased the lens and the LED from Maplin’s which seemed to fit the bill. The only piece that will be used is the main body that is supplied as a white metal fitting, the rest will be replaced by a brass construction, as the rest of the parts are not substantial enough to support a working unit. First, I need some 3/16 half round brass bar, the easiest way is to machine my own cutting just less than half the diameter away. The half-round bar was annealed before bending round a suitable mandrel to a half circle. I then soldered an 8BA nut on each leg to act as the swivel . Next, I machined the body’s internal bore to suit the lens body and skimmed the outer rim and face, finally bore out a small recess that locates the lens in place. The two pivot holes need to be drilled and tapped 8BA, and then a drilled hole in the rear wall for the wires to exit. As the light is to be both working and rotating the base has is to be made with a centre spindle that connects to a micro servo under the roof. The connecting devise was a bit of a headache trying to make it fit in a relatively small space; I used the supplied servo arm with four legs (shortened) and then machined a mating part with pins that located in the arm that is attached to the body above deck. The LED was modified to fit in the white metal body as it has a heat sink which was too big; as others have found cutting it down didn’t affect the heat dissipation when fixed in the white metal body, this was fixed using a small amount of Milliput. Having already machined the outer flange on the body I turned up a brass-flanged ring to push fit on the body this has to have the TRI form guard added. I made this from a central pinion with three holes drilled to accept the bent brass nails; these were soft soldered in position. The TRI form was then located on top of the brass flange and again soft soldered in position At this point all the components will have to be dismantled for final finishing before being painting.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Pretend deck planking

Not just the planking Steve 👍 Rambling induced through good mood due to enjoying a Gewürztraminer while watching a newly acquired BluRay restored / enhanced version of the Battle of the River Plate. All good stuff chaps! 😉 "Smoke RED 100" ........ G'night all 😁 PS "Number One, fly sht. removal detail to the foredeck, ON THE DOUBLE IF YOU PLEASE!" - "Aye aye Sah" 😁 Can heartily recommend the BluRay version of Battle of the River Plate / Graf Spee, Only criticism, USS Salem is a poor double for the Graf Spee, even considering the excuses worked into the film script. 😉 Attached pic shows my version. Graupner Premium but in need of significant rework in several areas 🤔 Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Painting

Steve, I am not an intimate of Fairey boats, but traditionally, motorboats have their deck planking in straight lines, whilst yachts have it following the edge of the boat and joggling into the King plank, so you may only need to mark straight lines, but Fairey might prove the rule by being the exception. what you say in mind I think the old pencil trick may be sufficient, but once you've done that and put a finish over the top be very careful if and when you rub down, lest you go through to the pencil lines as that will be very difficult to correct. Doug, I reckon our Grandads must have been from the same school of woodwork. His other big beef was people who varnished teak. The only time I ever saw him genuinely annoyed was when he and Nan paid an unexpected visit just as Dad had teak veneered an oak gate leg table that Dad'd brother had made years before as a wedding present for Mum and Dad (he was also a cabinet maker). Having sawn the ogee shape off the edges and teak veneered it he varnished it and hung the leaves from the washing line to dry. Grandad saw them hanging up and asked, "What the bloody 'ell's that?" "Oh just modernising the table", said Dad. "You don't varnish teak, boy, you oil teak, only bloody railway carriages are varnished, and they're all bodge jobs" He really went on alarming. Dad just couldn't bring himself to ever varnish a bit of teak veneer again! KES is still one of the main schools in Lynn, btw. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

Rebuild starts

Glad to help Pete 😊 Don't forget that the tube stops at or just after the hull breakthrough. Only the rotating shaft goes back through the A strut to the prop! That's the beauty of the Raboesch shaft assemblies, they are easy to shorten to accommodate this👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Rebuild starts

Thanks Doug. Finally made a decision and bought the Raboesch RAB301-09 shaft with ball s. it comes in at 450mm but can be reduced to the required 350mm of tube length.😉

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Sail cloth

As you say Colin, size is the issue. The main will be near 6 feet high with a 21" foot so I doubt cotton type materials will work also in mind that despite having a 'Classic' look it will probably perform like a racer. So I need the near impossible...a modern material that looks classic.

6 years ago by steve-d

Response

Rudders and Propellers

BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut s, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only s at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft s no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Taycol supermarine dimensions.

Hi Colin, I measured on your motor and it's 1&1/4 inches as specified. (Did mention that in my post!) The length between mounting hole centres may vary slightly from original spec, depending on the new bushes I'm fitting. Can't measure that until I have it reassembled. I'm nearly back up to speed now so will start the reassembly shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Rebuild starts

I agree Colin, only I used a mini gas torch on it's smallest flame, with a damp cloth between the tube and boat and the flame angled away from the boat! twisted with mole grips and a sharp tap on the end with a tack hammer. Nothing too heavy!😲 Peter; take a butchers in the Raboesch catalogue for shaft tubes with real s. Sold by Cornwall Model boats and others. Otherwise knock the old s out using the old shaft and make / buy new bushes. Preferably sintered phosphor-bronze. The sintered metal absorbs and traps oil 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Rebuild starts

Is it possible to fit new s in the existing shaft tube, if not I have managed to get old shafts out by carefully heating the tube using a soldering iron inserted into the end and as it heats up applying rotational force gently back and forth until the the glue gives way. This has worked for me on wooden hulls. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Response

Rebuild starts

I was hoping to get some help. I am considering changing the prop shaft for a much stronger one. I am concerned that the existing 35 year old unit with plastic s might not stand up well to the new 1485 motor running at 22,000 rpm potentially, I think.🤓 is there a method to removing old shafts without damaging the hull. If this is thought to be a viable proposition, please could I have recommendations for a 13" shaft with suitable s. Thanks. Peter.😉

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

IN THE BEGINNING there was what looked like a pile of rust😲 which got soaked in WD40 for 24 hours! After washing off with warm water and washing-up liquid, and drying in the sun for a few hours, the s (and copper wire brushes) were oiled, missing connecting links bridged, and 6V (with current limit 3A set) was cautiously applied. Lo and behold she rattled and protested BUT RAN! Oh! That nostalgic smell of ozone, and enough sparks to read a book by🤔 Next connections were changed, to separate field and armature coils (brush gear), and connected to a standard brushed motor ESC (Graupner Navy 30A) via my prototype converter board, and a Robbe Servo Tester to simulate TX and RX. lo and behold chapter 2; she ran forwards and backwards😊 and no sparks! Now dismantled (last 3 pics) to start clean up and replacement of corroded parts. Sorry Col, I broked your motor😁😁 Armature was cleaned up and commutator polished; surprisingly lots of 'meat' on it so motor has not been run much. Next stop; lathe to make some new frame spacers. After that new bushes cos the old Paxolin end plates have worn so that there's about 1/32" slop! Will probably have to turn the drive shaft down from original 1/4" (6.35mm) to 5mm to remove last traces of rust and pitting. Cheers All, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

I've used small brass shafts in brass bushed tubes with oilers in my MTB and they've lasted for 20yrs of average use, although they get a bit noisy when short of oil. Best would be brass shafts in brass tubes with Teflon/Nylon/ bronze etc bushes (a center bush as well if poss - have used these in ic power boats for years with hard steel shafts for the power). Brass is good as it's self lubricating to a degree and with a good quality oil can run quite smoothly and quietly, and is very simple, and when looked after won't corrode like steel or miniature ball or roller s (unless stainless).

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Look on ebay. Oilite s. Sorry for the mistake in the spelling, fingers bigger than the keys. Cheers Colin

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Hi Martin, Colin's Supermarine doesn't have a pressed brass cap. On the inside of the Paxolin frame end plates are two circular paxolin plates, on the out side a plastic (?) holder for the felt oiler pad. The whole shemozzle held together with 4 brass nuts n bolts. The slop in the paxolin plates is somewhere between 1/64" and 1/32" so I reckon it's worth fitting some decent s. I'm going to try and hide 'em inside the paxolin and plastic parts to preserve the 'vintage look'. Wish me luck! Cheers, Doug.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

My mate said it as Chrodite, with narey a hint of a pause, so I just assumed he knew what it was. I think it's effectively Admiralty brass, more or less. Not quite bronze, which is BLOODY hard! But ace material. Goes brown but doesn't corrode further. He made hundreds of his own bolts from it, but had to sell the boat before he finished it. s for a Supermarine? Mine has its original stuff, Just the end plates of Paxolin with felt oil pads held on with a pressed brass cap. it's worked all these years and there's not a thou. of slop. Amazing. I suppose though, mine never really got a lot of use in the few years I used it. Only odd weekends for as long as a pair of lantern batteries would last. Maybe 10 minutes each! Anyway, if it gets another working, great news. I'd like to see Colin's fleet of old codgers. I'd feel right at home Mind you, I sent off for a brushless ESC today and will have to get some batteries soon to test the motor. its a tiddler, but it's 174 watts, so should work. Worth a try anyway as it cost me nowt. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

So Colin, Last instalment for today. just finished fettling up the armature and drive shafts. Pic 1: having flattened off the ends I used a centre drill to prepare the shafts for machining using the 'live centre' on the mini lathe. Pic 2: machining the output end. Pic 3: polishing up the brush gear end, this is where you can attach your fan Colin. As shown on the micrometer I stopped at 6mm, less 2/100mm clearance, and will make the bushes to suit. If you want the shafts turned down a bit more for the drive coupling and/or the fan attachment let me know Colin. I'll keep the actual motor sections of the shaft as it is at 6mm to fit the bushes I'll make tomorrow. All the best, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Ain't never no not 'eard of Iolite neiver!😲 But then I'm only an igorant lectrickery engineer 😁 Learnin' fast with all this mechanical magicery! All good fun folks, and MOST of it actually woiks!😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Chrodite!! Blimey I thought I would never meet another person who knew that word. My friend had a load to make fixings for his tiny, but lovely Crouch sloop White Mouse. He gave me what he had left and I'm down to about a foot left, so that goes towards making prop shaft s, so, Doug, you've actually got a wee bit already. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Hi Doug, I also can't locate chrodite in any material listings. I have some phosphor bronze in my workshop if it's needed. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Evenin' Colin, Thanks for the offer. I'm going to use some stuff the Martin sent me, called Chrodite apparently, although I can't find any description or reference to Chrodite anywhere! Looks like brass with an extra ration of tin. Supposedly harder wearing. Anyway, stator and frame spacers etc are now finished.👍 So after feeding the inner man I'll start measuring up for the bushes and see what I can do about tidying up the drive shafts. Have just sorted out a 'Live Centre' for the mini lathe which should help. I want to hide the bushes inside the original Paxolin cards and the external end plates which contain the felt oiling pad. So ball races are out of the question unfortunately; too large diameter and too thick 🤔 Needle roller s would be nice, but I ain't got none that small😭 (Nah, admit it Doug you ain't got none at all, they're way too expensive😭) Amused myself today polishing up all the brass nuts and bolts! Confucius he say "Polishing nuts - very painful" 😁 Weather should be good for spraying tomorrow so I might fire up the compressor and give my PTB a blast of Pacific Green. 😊 Cheers All, Doug 😎 BTW: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 Oops! This doesn't belong here!🤔

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Great Doug, if you need material for the s let me know, did wonder about ball races? But you know me full of useless ideas. As sinatra said you do it your way. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

Hi Rowen, i just wondered how much the brass whips compared with steel, and how much it expands with friction heat if the s bushes are a tightish fit!? Don't think I've come across brass shafts before 😉 Good luck👍 Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

Had a similar squeal in a Boat, one of prop shafts had a slight bend, had to fit a centre in both shafts tubes which cured the problem. Cheers Colin

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Prop Shafts

Whilst stripping the hull on the Range Finder Tender I needed to remove the prop shafts. I was surprised to find they were just rods in tubes, no s or seals. The motors are 800's brushed. Is this usual or a 'cheap job'? NPJ

6 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Prop Shafts

I had this situation on an old Aerokits Crash Tender that I restored. Though there was no motor with it and the hull was in a very poor state I noticed the stern tube was plain steel with no evidence of s though the prop shaft was a good fit. I got round this by lubricating the shaft with Marine Grease (Dynamite Marine) which is a blue grease that I use on my fast electrics. This can be purchased from Wheelspin Models. You can also purchase a grease gun from them which is very useful as you can fill the whole stern tube . On my fast electrics the flexi drive to the prop is in a nylon sleeve that is flexible but does not have s installed. As the brushless motor exceeds 22,000 rpm I can confirm that the grease does a good job as I have not had a failure with it. Boaty😁👍

6 years ago by boaty

Response

deck planks

Paddle boxes well on the way. Just the face to do now. Note they are bolted to hull & fit behind plates holding s. So they are removable.

6 years ago by hammer

Forum

Twin screw

Hi George, Had this snag with my Graupner Graf Spee as well. in my case the stbd prop tube was misaligned 😲 Major surgery 😡 First off; it's unlikely that the motors are perfectly matched, but if the difference is that noticeable I would suspect the cause lies in propshaft resistance and / or dry motor s! I would disconnect the prop shafts, oil the motor s and run them in a bit off load for a few a minutes. See if you notice a difference there at low speeds. Also; remove both shafts; clean and oil. Clean the tube end s with a pipe cleaner and some light machine oil. Squirt some Teflon grease into the tube from the prop end. I use a small plastic syringe for that. Before reassembly check as far as possible that neither shaft or tube is bent at all🤔 If all seems straight reassemble and run the motors at medium speed a minute or two then slowly and see if you can still detect a difference. Reduce the throttle gradually until the motors stop. if one stops significantly before the other that suggests extra friction in that drive train; misalignment somewhere! Thrust washers too tight? BTW: which motors? One ESC or two? Hope this helps! Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

engine

Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the s in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right.

6 years ago by hammer

Response

engine

A little more done on the engine. Steam ports & pivot holes drilled in cylinders. Oil light bronze ready to fixed. Piston rods ready I will be silver soldering piston blanks in place. Then with the rod in chuck turn the blanks to fit. Chrome crank shaft, pin & web in the picture ready for cutting. The strip of ali with four holes will mark the steam ports in the frame. when the crank is fitted. The small gears fit between the & crank web. As I said before this will give the chance to change ratios if the low is to low.

6 years ago by hammer

Response

engine

Original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. if this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble. I have remade the standard, Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank . Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.

6 years ago by hammer