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    Response
    Re: SEAPLANE TENDER STAND ADDITION
    Re - Are the shafts ball
    bearing
    at both ends? and canโ€™t you get sealed
    bearing
    s Hi Mike, they have dual
    bearing
    s which are MF 74 flanged
    bearing
    s - 4x7-(8.2)x2.5 - steel double shielded, so are quite small, and are a tight fit in the brass tube so I don't want to disturb them until I need to. I've ordered some Zokol branded
    bearing
    s from Ali Express as future replacements' so I'll see what they are like when they come. I might order some MBA stainless
    bearing
    s if they have them as well, as I know you can trust them to be good quality. Have found some Chinese
    bearing
    s to be very soft and give out early, even though regularly lubed (planes) as against the better FAG, SKF, Koyo, Timken MBA etc which I've replaced them with which last for years, (haven't replaced a replacement yet in 10+ years) Not sure if you can get these particular mini
    bearing
    s in a sealed version, (I haven't seen one in the mini
    bearing
    s range) I've added the pic for others to view regarding lubrication, which may be of interest . (see also comment above to Martin. JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 36'' Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.
    I use SAE 90 mixed with some additives to help it stick which seems to work ok Martin. I can't get grease into the shafts through the oiler tubes (Maiami and MTB) as I have to remove the rudders to take the shafts out which is a pain ( I could try and inject grease but it would take forever to get through and would probably just come out the top end anyhow). Grease is fine for plain
    bearing
    shafts but with the new shafts I have ( for the ST) with double seal ball
    bearing
    s each end, they will need filling with oil so it seeps through the
    bearing
    s, (grease will just sit on the outside and not lubricate) Also, unless you use marine grade waterproof grease/oil with anti corrosion additives the shafts (and
    bearing
    s) can still rust unless they are stainless or brass. I used to run my nitro boats in the salt water and even though I greased the shafts (steel) thoroughly every time, if I left them for a few months they would be quite rusty when I checked them (using std GP grease, -I always thought grease was grease). I've found it's a good idea to remove the shafts periodically to make sure they aren't 'growing' in the middle as if any rust gets too bad you may not get the shafts out.
    5 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build D
    Motors I'll be trying in the ST are either the 'Gool' (black motor) 540 (replaceable ball
    bearing
    s and brushes and adjustable timing) or the Feilun boat spare 540 motor complete with mount and cooling. Also bought 4x stainless 250mm driveshafts with ball
    bearing
    s ( $8 NZ on a big discount on Banggood) remains to be seen how good the
    bearing
    s are. Will be running twin motors through twin car ESCs.
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration.
    Thanks Mark ๐Ÿ˜Š Beauty is in the eye of the beholder ๐Ÿ˜‰ It was a challenge for an electronicals man but I enjoyed it and hope it performs well for Colin in his Commander. I also fitted ball race
    bearing
    s on the shaft and modified it to run forwards and backwards off a brushed ESC, and built him the necessary converter board to wire between the ESC and motor. In exchange he sent me a whole battleship! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ A Tamiya 1/350 King George V, and a boxful of mini motors. Can't say fairer n 'at can ya!? All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Neptun
    Under construction is this old kit recently given to me after sitting on the shelf for close to 15 years. No plans, no deck fittings, and other parts missing too. it needed a new speed control, motor with geared reduction, battery and the prop shaft
    bearing
    s were seized requiring several hours of removal and replacement. (5/10)
    1 year ago by Ron
    Blog
    Cooling the motor - an experiment.
    Whilst I donโ€™t think Iโ€™m going to need to cool the motor it got me thinking that it may be a useful experiment to see if the โ€˜Stick A Fan Blade On The End Of The Rotorโ€™ idea would actually work ๐Ÿค” So while waiting for some glue to set on another part of the build I decided to rummage through the junk PC bits box and find an old fan of a suitable size, and I did indeed have on that would fit the bill ๐Ÿ˜€. I broke away the outer fan casing to release the motor and blades and then set about separating the fan blade, which proved fairly simple. The fan blade has an overall diameter of 45mm which is ideal and thereโ€™s a moulded-in centre mark so I used a step cutter to open up a hole to 10mm and then a tapered hand reamer to carefully open up the hole to about 11mm which is the diameter of the end
    bearing
    stub on the rotor. The fan was then pushed onto this motor stub until it seated flush on the wide and end of the rotor can and is a very tight friction fit so it doesnโ€™t need any more than that to hold it. I donโ€™t have a dial gauge but I can tell by eye that the fan is perfectly centred and true and so it shouldnโ€™t cause an imbalance ๐Ÿคž. The motor turns clockwise when viewed at the fan end which means that the fan would be pulling air through the side vents , through the stator and around the rotor and would need to exhaust through a new panel cut into the end of the motor enclosure. The existing motor enclosure still fits perfectly over the motor and its fan and wouldnโ€™t need any other modification than the extra opening and mesh. So in theory this arrangement will give forced ventilation and cooling of the motor in the event that there is a heat problem. In practice Iโ€™ve yet to wire up the motor to the ESC so I have not been able to run a proper test to check it actually works but Iโ€™m pretty confident of it. This motor cooling arrangement could prove useful to others when faced with a similar situation which I why I decided to conduct the experiment...... and validate my theory. Just keep your fingers away from the fan bladesโ€ฆ..๐Ÿ˜จ
    10 months ago by robbob
    Response
    The motor cover.
    I did consider somehow fixing some fins to the rotor to create some air movement or perhaps even glueing a very small fan blade, taken from a PC graphics card that I have in the junk box, to the end of the rotor but I fear that this could easily unbalance the motor and harm the
    bearing
    s. I won't find out if my ventilation slots are effective until the sea trials ๐Ÿค”
    10 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Damen Stan 4207 Plans
    I retired 4.1/2 years ago at 70. I've finished all the jobs Management set me, and have decided to try my hand at model making. I set my mind on making a model of HMC Searcher with the rib. I purchased a Sports Game Racing Boat, took off the top, lowered the RC pickup into the hull and remodelled the top to a good facsimile of the Delta rib. Because of the size of the doner hull I have to build the Searcher to a 1:32 scale. I have no drawings only those off the internet which are very sketchy. I would ask if the person (maybe RH Baker) with the plan drawings of the hull could let me have a copy. This is the first model I have ever made so you will all no doubt be hearing from me on a regular basis to tap your knowledge. Thank you for
    bearing
    with me. RayA
    10 months ago by RayA
    Forum
    PROPELLERS
    If you want to use a 4mm shaft, you will need to ream the
    bearing
    s to fit. Cheers Colin.
    11 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I used to use Liqui-Grease which was a clear liquid which solidified quickly leaving a grease filled whatever.I think it was silicone grease in a solvent which evaporated. No longer available as far as i can see but silicone grease diluted with meths might work. Great for chains and
    bearing
    s on a bike so well enough for a little prop shaft. Very low drag too Seems to soften with movement.๐Ÿ‘
    11 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon
    bearing
    s for the lower
    bearing
    which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus
    12 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Greetings from Australia and Happy New Year. Hi Steve I have always lubricated my shafts with a 50/50 mixture of car
    bearing
    grease and sump oil Thinned to a consistency to be Forced into the tube via a syringe. This seems primitive but I have never had a problem. Top up when you think it needs it. Some would shudder at this but works for me. Regards Sid
    12 months ago by sidley70
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I have always used wheel
    bearing
    grease. I have a brass tube fitted to the prop shaft which is the same diameter as a grease nipple so slides into the grease gun Yours Brian
    12 months ago by scout13
    Forum
    steam water pump
    Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the ยฃ250 mark, mind it does have ball race
    bearing
    s on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.
    1 year ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    fuse holder
    Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin
    bearing
    s if you did that...
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Are these any good
    Mornin' John, (Well it is here!) I have something very similar and it works well, was using it tonight to make some test leads for Colins Taycol Supermarine, which is chuntering away behind me running in it's new
    bearing
    s ๐Ÿ˜‰ If you don't already have such a tool Go for it๐Ÿ‘ Benefit of that one is that it has interchangeable heads for different sizes, Better 'n mine ๐Ÿ˜ญ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Mornin' John, Hows things 'Ol Mate'๐Ÿ˜‰ Basically on a PC the 'Photos' App built into Windows 10 should do the job. Pic shows the opening window displaying the last photos I downloaded / Stored. i haven't experimented much with it yet but it should find any photos / pics on any drive, stick or memory card on your PC. If you are using a Smartphone I don't know, although most seem to have a 'Gallery' function built in! it will depend on which phone you have and which operating system it uses. Best thing to do there is look at the Apps already installed or in the Google or Microsoft App Stores. More later when I've fiddled with the 'Photos' App a bit more. Better shift to a new thread then as well, afore we're arrested for hijacking๐Ÿ˜ฒ (again๐Ÿ˜)! At the moment I'm putting the finishing touches to Colin's Taycol Supermarine. Just reassembled it with new
    bearing
    s and ran some tests using my prototype converter board. Runs fore and aft perfectly on a normal brushed ESC.๐Ÿ˜Š Will update the 'Supermarine Resurrection' blog shortly. All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    A return to the hobby!
    ".....Ref your motor: I'm multiplexing myself between repairing fences and refurbing your motor! Reassembly has started; first new
    bearing
    is in, will tackle the second tonight. Illustrated 'right up' ๐Ÿ˜ to follow. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž..." The Taycol website would appreciate a write-up if you have an interesting 'Taycol Tale' to tell....
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    A return to the hobby!
    'Right On' Colin ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜ My first Boss (part owner of a small sub-contract outfit I worked for during my Sandwich Course days) used to say "If you've never made a mistake you've never made F... All"! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ He was a bit of a rough diamond but a great first Guvner! Ref your motor: I'm multiplexing myself between repairing fences and refurbing your motor! Reassembly has started; first new
    bearing
    is in, will tackle the second tonight. Illustrated 'right up' ๐Ÿ˜ to follow. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Many thanks for the Snowberry tip John ๐Ÿ‘ It's now your fault the Supermarine rebuild is delayed at least six months ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Actually although I have looked at several relevant build articles (without conversions to other navies configurations) I have done a bit on the rebuild. The new
    bearing
    s have arrived and I've just arranged the fitting in one end plate. ๐Ÿ˜‰ More soon, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Search light
    A working search light seems to be expected on this craft so here goes. Based on Robs build I purchased the lens and the LED from Maplinโ€™s which seemed to fit the bill. The only piece that will be used is the main body that is supplied as a white metal fitting, the rest will be replaced by a brass construction, as the rest of the parts are not substantial enough to support a working unit. First, I need some 3/16 half round brass bar, the easiest way is to machine my own cutting just less than half the diameter away. The half-round bar was annealed before bending round a suitable mandrel to a half circle. I then soldered an 8BA nut on each leg to act as the swivel
    bearing
    . Next, I machined the bodyโ€™s internal bore to suit the lens body and skimmed the outer rim and face, finally bore out a small recess that locates the lens in place. The two pivot holes need to be drilled and tapped 8BA, and then a drilled hole in the rear wall for the wires to exit. As the light is to be both working and rotating the base has is to be made with a centre spindle that connects to a micro servo under the roof. The connecting devise was a bit of a headache trying to make it fit in a relatively small space; I used the supplied servo arm with four legs (shortened) and then machined a mating part with pins that located in the arm that is attached to the body above deck. The LED was modified to fit in the white metal body as it has a heat sink which was too big; as others have found cutting it down didnโ€™t affect the heat dissipation when fixed in the white metal body, this was fixed using a small amount of Milliput. Having already machined the outer flange on the body I turned up a brass-flanged ring to push fit on the body this has to have the TRI form guard added. I made this from a central pinion with three holes drilled to accept the bent brass nails; these were soft soldered in position. The TRI form was then located on top of the brass flange and again soft soldered in position At this point all the components will have to be dismantled for final finishing before being painting.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    Not just the planking Steve ๐Ÿ‘ Rambling induced through good mood due to enjoying a Gewรผrztraminer while watching a newly acquired BluRay restored / enhanced version of the Battle of the River Plate. All good stuff chaps! ๐Ÿ˜‰ "Smoke
    bearing
    RED 100" ........ G'night all ๐Ÿ˜ PS "Number One, fly sht. removal detail to the foredeck, ON THE DOUBLE IF YOU PLEASE!" - "Aye aye Sah" ๐Ÿ˜ Can heartily recommend the BluRay version of Battle of the River Plate / Graf Spee, Only criticism, USS Salem is a poor double for the Graf Spee, even considering the excuses worked into the film script. ๐Ÿ˜‰ Attached pic shows my version. Graupner Premium but in need of significant rework in several areas ๐Ÿค” Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Painting
    Steve, I am not an intimate of Fairey boats, but traditionally, motorboats have their deck planking in straight lines, whilst yachts have it following the edge of the boat and joggling into the King plank, so you may only need to mark straight lines, but Fairey might prove the rule by being the exception.
    bearing
    what you say in mind I think the old pencil trick may be sufficient, but once you've done that and put a finish over the top be very careful if and when you rub down, lest you go through to the pencil lines as that will be very difficult to correct. Doug, I reckon our Grandads must have been from the same school of woodwork. His other big beef was people who varnished teak. The only time I ever saw him genuinely annoyed was when he and Nan paid an unexpected visit just as Dad had teak veneered an oak gate leg table that Dad'd brother had made years before as a wedding present for Mum and Dad (he was also a cabinet maker). Having sawn the ogee shape off the edges and teak veneered it he varnished it and hung the leaves from the washing line to dry. Grandad saw them hanging up and asked, "What the bloody 'ell's that?" "Oh just modernising the table", said Dad. "You don't varnish teak, boy, you oil teak, only bloody railway carriages are varnished, and they're all bodge jobs" He really went on alarming. Dad just couldn't bring himself to ever varnish a bit of teak veneer again! KES is still one of the main schools in Lynn, btw. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Glad to help Pete ๐Ÿ˜Š Don't forget that the tube stops at or just after the hull breakthrough. Only the rotating shaft goes back through the A strut
    bearing
    to the prop! That's the beauty of the Raboesch shaft assemblies, they are easy to shorten to accommodate this๐Ÿ‘ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Thanks Doug. Finally made a decision and bought the Raboesch RAB301-09 shaft with ball
    bearing
    s. it comes in at 450mm but can be reduced to the required 350mm of tube length.๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Sail cloth
    As you say Colin, size is the issue. The main will be near 6 feet high with a 21" foot so I doubt cotton type materials will work also
    bearing
    in mind that despite having a 'Classic' look it will probably perform like a racer. So I need the near impossible...a modern material that looks classic.
    1 year ago by steve-d
    Response
    Rudders and Propellers
    BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders ๐Ÿค” You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.๐Ÿ˜‰ On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the
    bearing
    in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut
    bearing
    s, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only
    bearing
    s at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft
    bearing
    s no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. ๐Ÿ˜ญ OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. ๐Ÿค” G'night All, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol supermarine dimensions.
    Hi Colin, I measured on your motor and it's 1&1/4 inches as specified. (Did mention that in my post!) The length between mounting hole centres may vary slightly from original spec, depending on the new
    bearing
    bushes I'm fitting. Can't measure that until I have it reassembled. I'm nearly back up to speed now so will start the reassembly shortly. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    I agree Colin, only I used a mini gas torch on it's smallest flame, with a damp cloth between the tube and boat and the flame angled away from the boat! twisted with mole grips and a sharp tap on the end with a tack hammer. Nothing too heavy!๐Ÿ˜ฒ Peter; take a butchers in the Raboesch catalogue for shaft tubes with real
    bearing
    s. Sold by Cornwall Model boats and others. Otherwise knock the old
    bearing
    s out using the old shaft and make / buy new bushes. Preferably sintered phosphor-bronze. The sintered metal absorbs and traps oil ๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Is it possible to fit new
    bearing
    s in the existing shaft tube, if not I have managed to get old shafts out by carefully heating the tube using a soldering iron inserted into the end and as it heats up applying rotational force gently back and forth until the the glue gives way. This has worked for me on wooden hulls. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    I was hoping to get some help. I am considering changing the prop shaft for a much stronger one. I am concerned that the existing 35 year old unit with plastic
    bearing
    s might not stand up well to the new 1485 motor running at 22,000 rpm potentially, I think.๐Ÿค“ is there a method to removing old shafts without damaging the hull. If this is thought to be a viable proposition, please could I have recommendations for a 13" shaft with suitable
    bearing
    s. Thanks. Peter.๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    IN THE BEGINNING there was what looked like a pile of rust๐Ÿ˜ฒ which got soaked in WD40 for 24 hours! After washing off with warm water and washing-up liquid, and drying in the sun for a few hours, the
    bearing
    s (and copper wire brushes) were oiled, missing connecting links bridged, and 6V (with current limit 3A set) was cautiously applied. Lo and behold she rattled and protested BUT RAN! Oh! That nostalgic smell of ozone, and enough sparks to read a book by๐Ÿค” Next connections were changed, to separate field and armature coils (brush gear), and connected to a standard brushed motor ESC (Graupner Navy 30A) via my prototype converter board, and a Robbe Servo Tester to simulate TX and RX. lo and behold chapter 2; she ran forwards and backwards๐Ÿ˜Š and no sparks! Now dismantled (last 3 pics) to start clean up and replacement of corroded parts. Sorry Col, I broked your motor๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Armature was cleaned up and commutator polished; surprisingly lots of 'meat' on it so motor has not been run much. Next stop; lathe to make some new frame spacers. After that new
    bearing
    bushes cos the old Paxolin end plates have worn so that there's about 1/32" slop! Will probably have to turn the drive shaft down from original 1/4" (6.35mm) to 5mm to remove last traces of rust and pitting. Cheers All, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    I've used small brass shafts in brass bushed tubes with oilers in my MTB and they've lasted for 20yrs of average use, although they get a bit noisy when short of oil. Best would be brass shafts in brass tubes with Teflon/Nylon/ bronze etc bushes (a center bush as well if poss - have used these in ic power boats for years with hard steel shafts for the power). Brass is good as it's self lubricating to a degree and with a good quality oil can run quite smoothly and quietly, and is very simple, and when looked after won't corrode like steel or miniature ball or roller
    bearing
    s (unless stainless).
    1 year ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Look on ebay. Oilite
    bearing
    s. Sorry for the mistake in the spelling, fingers bigger than the keys. Cheers Colin
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Hi Martin, Colin's Supermarine doesn't have a pressed brass cap. On the inside of the Paxolin frame end plates are two circular paxolin plates, on the out side a plastic (?) holder for the felt oiler pad. The whole shemozzle held together with 4 brass nuts n bolts. The slop in the paxolin plates is somewhere between 1/64" and 1/32" so I reckon it's worth fitting some decent
    bearing
    s. I'm going to try and hide 'em inside the paxolin and plastic parts to preserve the 'vintage look'. Wish me luck! Cheers, Doug.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    My mate said it as Chrodite, with narey a hint of a pause, so I just assumed he knew what it was. I think it's effectively Admiralty brass, more or less. Not quite bronze, which is BLOODY hard! But ace
    bearing
    material. Goes brown but doesn't corrode further. He made hundreds of his own bolts from it, but had to sell the boat before he finished it.
    bearing
    s for a Supermarine? Mine has its original stuff, Just the end plates of Paxolin with felt oil pads held on with a pressed brass cap. it's worked all these years and there's not a thou. of slop. Amazing. I suppose though, mine never really got a lot of use in the few years I used it. Only odd weekends for as long as a pair of lantern batteries would last. Maybe 10 minutes each! Anyway, if it gets another working, great news. I'd like to see Colin's fleet of old codgers. I'd feel right at home Mind you, I sent off for a brushless ESC today and will have to get some batteries soon to test the motor. its a tiddler, but it's 174 watts, so should work. Worth a try anyway as it cost me nowt. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    So Colin, Last instalment for today. just finished fettling up the armature and drive shafts. Pic 1: having flattened off the ends I used a centre drill to prepare the shafts for machining using the 'live centre' on the mini lathe. Pic 2: machining the output end. Pic 3: polishing up the brush gear end, this is where you can attach your fan Colin. As shown on the micrometer I stopped at 6mm, less 2/100mm clearance, and will make the
    bearing
    bushes to suit. If you want the shafts turned down a bit more for the drive coupling and/or the fan attachment let me know Colin. I'll keep the actual motor
    bearing
    sections of the shaft as it is at 6mm to fit the bushes I'll make tomorrow. All the best, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Ain't never no not 'eard of Iolite neiver!๐Ÿ˜ฒ But then I'm only an igorant lectrickery engineer ๐Ÿ˜ Learnin' fast with all this mechanical magicery! All good fun folks, and MOST of it actually woiks!๐Ÿ˜Š
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Chrodite!! Blimey I thought I would never meet another person who knew that word. My friend had a load to make fixings for his tiny, but lovely Crouch sloop White Mouse. He gave me what he had left and I'm down to about a foot left, so that goes towards making prop shaft
    bearing
    s, so, Doug, you've actually got a wee bit already. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Hi Doug, I also can't locate chrodite in any
    bearing
    material listings. I have some phosphor bronze in my workshop if it's needed. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Evenin' Colin, Thanks for the offer. I'm going to use some stuff the Martin sent me, called Chrodite apparently, although I can't find any description or reference to Chrodite anywhere! Looks like brass with an extra ration of tin. Supposedly harder wearing. Anyway, stator and frame spacers etc are now finished.๐Ÿ‘ So after feeding the inner man I'll start measuring up for the bushes and see what I can do about tidying up the drive shafts. Have just sorted out a 'Live Centre' for the mini lathe which should help. I want to hide the bushes inside the original Paxolin cards and the external end plates which contain the felt oiling pad. So ball races are out of the question unfortunately; too large diameter and too thick ๐Ÿค” Needle roller
    bearing
    s would be nice, but I ain't got none that small๐Ÿ˜ญ (Nah, admit it Doug you ain't got none at all, they're way too expensive๐Ÿ˜ญ) Amused myself today polishing up all the brass nuts and bolts! Confucius he say "Polishing nuts - very painful" ๐Ÿ˜ Weather should be good for spraying tomorrow so I might fire up the compressor and give my PTB a blast of Pacific Green. ๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers All, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead ๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Oops! This doesn't belong here!๐Ÿค”
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Great Doug, if you need material for the
    bearing
    s let me know, did wonder about ball races? But you know me full of useless ideas. As sinatra said you do it your way. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi Rowen, i just wondered how much the brass whips compared with steel, and how much it expands with friction heat if the
    bearing
    s bushes are a tightish fit!? Don't think I've come across brass shafts before ๐Ÿ˜‰ Good luck๐Ÿ‘ Doug
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Had a similar squeal in a Boat, one of prop shafts had a slight bend, had to fit a centre
    bearing
    in both shafts tubes which cured the problem. Cheers Colin
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Prop Shafts
    Whilst stripping the hull on the Range Finder Tender I needed to remove the prop shafts. I was surprised to find they were just rods in tubes, no
    bearing
    s or seals. The motors are 800's brushed. Is this usual or a 'cheap job'? NPJ
    1 year ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Prop Shafts
    I had this situation on an old Aerokits Crash Tender that I restored. Though there was no motor with it and the hull was in a very poor state I noticed the stern tube was plain steel with no evidence of
    bearing
    s though the prop shaft was a good fit. I got round this by lubricating the shaft with Marine Grease (Dynamite Marine) which is a blue grease that I use on my fast electrics. This can be purchased from Wheelspin Models. You can also purchase a grease gun from them which is very useful as you can fill the whole stern tube . On my fast electrics the flexi drive to the prop is in a nylon sleeve that is flexible but does not have
    bearing
    s installed. As the brushless motor exceeds 22,000 rpm I can confirm that the grease does a good job as I have not had a failure with it. Boaty๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘
    1 year ago by boaty
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class
    Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed
    bearing
    . Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators: ย Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 โ€“ Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16ย m (52ย ft 6ย in) Beam: 3.1ย m (10ย ft 2ย in) Draught: 1.2ย m (3ย ft 11ย in) Propulsion: 2 ร— MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37ย mph; 59ย km/h) Range: 260ย nm (480ย km) at 19ย kn (35ย km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 ร— General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted) (ESC: China 60A) (5/10)
    1 year ago by CB90
    Response
    deck planks
    Paddle boxes well on the way. Just the face to do now. Note they are bolted to hull & fit behind plates holding
    bearing
    s. So they are removable.
    1 year ago by hammer
    Forum
    Twin screw
    Hi George, Had this snag with my Graupner Graf Spee as well. in my case the stbd prop tube was misaligned ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Major surgery ๐Ÿ˜ก First off; it's unlikely that the motors are perfectly matched, but if the difference is that noticeable I would suspect the cause lies in propshaft resistance and / or dry motor
    bearing
    s! I would disconnect the prop shafts, oil the motor
    bearing
    s and run them in a bit off load for a few a minutes. See if you notice a difference there at low speeds. Also; remove both shafts; clean and oil. Clean the tube end
    bearing
    s with a pipe cleaner and some light machine oil. Squirt some Teflon grease into the tube from the prop end. I use a small plastic syringe for that. Before reassembly check as far as possible that neither shaft or tube is bent at all๐Ÿค” If all seems straight reassemble and run the motors at medium speed a minute or two then slowly and see if you can still detect a difference. Reduce the throttle gradually until the motors stop. if one stops significantly before the other that suggests extra friction in that drive train; misalignment somewhere! Thrust washers too tight? BTW: which motors? One ESC or two? Hope this helps! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation
    Some of you may already know part of the story but, spurred on by Martin 'Westquay' and commanded ๐Ÿ˜‰ by Admiral 'Dave' here goes ๐Ÿ˜Ž Dad built her originally when I was about 12, so ca 53-54 years ago. She was 'No name' and free running with a Taycol Target, ahead only, and a 6V (very) wet cell lead acid. (Down to the garage again for a 'top up!) Anyway, to cut a long story slightly sideways ๐Ÿ˜‰ MY daughter Jessica found the boat in the cellar when she was about 12! And immediately wanted to run it on the local lake in Munich, as I was doing with my HMS Hotspur (but that's another shaggy model story!). Sooooooo, she was cleaned up, resprayed pink (๐Ÿ˜ก!) and white, Taycol Target field motor (no reverse) removed and replaced with a Decaperm 6V 7A with 2.75:1 gearbox. 6V 4000mAH SLA (weight half ton or so) Performance was rather sedate. Well it seemed like a good idea at the time! RX, battery and rudder servo were shoehorned into the aft compartment, Jessica nameplates stuck on and off we went. Jessie was happy with the boat and I was happy with the Biergarten. Can't remember where 'the management' was ๐Ÿ˜‰ Jessie soon lost interest so I used the boat as a test bed for a while. So now, 25-26 years on; prompted by Martin, I took the old lady down off the shelf /I TOLD her not climb up there!๐Ÿ˜‰) and started inspecting the damage. Photos attached. (Yes I know 35Megs is not for boats but I didn have nowt else then๐Ÿค) The ancient DIN Audio socket was for charging the RX bat, double throw switch on starboard quarter. The big 'ole was for the telescopic antenna borrowed from an old radio. Needs must when ... The funny looking 'thing' hanging out the transom is a dummy exhaust hiding the bolt holding the antenna bracket inside! Have also started dismantling and renovating the Taycol, which I want to put back in with a reversing circuit and a 2S or maybe 4S LiPo. That was day before yesterday. Yesterday I took out the junk (siren, water pump, servos & micro switches to operate them and the running lights) and wiped the dust off - last two photos, incl. THE JUNK. Stripped of all the junk & Decaperm she weighs 1214gm (about 2lb 11oz). Also tested (cautiously!) the Taycol with a regulated / current limiting PSU. She rattled and protested but ran ๐Ÿ˜Š Now being dismantled, cleaned up and brush gear refurbished. Might also fit proper
    bearing
    s! Next step: clean up the old gal, check for leaks and load capacity. I will probably use the 4S LiPo ca 310gm, the SLA was 660gm, so lots of spare capacity, or maybe I can get her nose out of the water for once More soon Cheers from Munich ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS to DAve and Martin: NO! I don't propose to go full authentic nostalgia with a wet cell accu ๐Ÿ˜‰
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    engine
    Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the
    bearing
    s in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right.
    1 year ago by hammer


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