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    Response
    Re: 36'' Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.
    I use SAE 90 mixed with some additives to help it stick which seems to work ok Martin. I can't get grease into the shafts through the oiler tubes (Maiami and MTB) as I have to remove the rudders to take the shafts out which is a pain ( I could try and inject grease but it would take forever to get through and would probably just come out the top end anyhow). Grease is fine for plain bearing shafts but with the new shafts I have ( for the ST) with double seal ball
    bearings
    each end, they will need filling with oil so it seeps through the
    bearings
    , (grease will just sit on the outside and not lubricate) Also, unless you use marine grade waterproof grease/oil with anti corrosion additives the shafts (and
    bearings
    ) can still rust unless they are stainless or brass. I used to run my nitro boats in the salt water and even though I greased the shafts (steel) thoroughly every time, if I left them for a few months they would be quite rusty when I checked them (using std GP grease, -I always thought grease was grease). I've found it's a good idea to remove the shafts periodically to make sure they aren't 'growing' in the middle as if any rust gets too bad you may not get the shafts out.
    2 days ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build D
    Motors I'll be trying in the ST are either the 'Gool' (black motor) 540 (replaceable ball
    bearings
    and brushes and adjustable timing) or the Feilun boat spare 540 motor complete with mount and cooling. Also bought 4x stainless 250mm driveshafts with ball
    bearings
    ( $8 NZ on a big discount on Banggood) remains to be seen how good the
    bearings
    are. Will be running twin motors through twin car ESCs.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration.
    Thanks Mark ๐Ÿ˜Š Beauty is in the eye of the beholder ๐Ÿ˜‰ It was a challenge for an electronicals man but I enjoyed it and hope it performs well for Colin in his Commander. I also fitted ball race
    bearings
    on the shaft and modified it to run forwards and backwards off a brushed ESC, and built him the necessary converter board to wire between the ESC and motor. In exchange he sent me a whole battleship! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ A Tamiya 1/350 King George V, and a boxful of mini motors. Can't say fairer n 'at can ya!? All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Neptun
    Under construction is this old kit recently given to me after sitting on the shelf for close to 15 years. No plans, no deck fittings, and other parts missing too. it needed a new speed control, motor with geared reduction, battery and the prop shaft
    bearings
    were seized requiring several hours of removal and replacement. (5/10)
    9 months ago by Ron
    Response
    The motor cover.
    I did consider somehow fixing some fins to the rotor to create some air movement or perhaps even glueing a very small fan blade, taken from a PC graphics card that I have in the junk box, to the end of the rotor but I fear that this could easily unbalance the motor and harm the
    bearings
    . I won't find out if my ventilation slots are effective until the sea trials ๐Ÿค”
    5 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    PROPELLERS
    If you want to use a 4mm shaft, you will need to ream the
    bearings
    to fit. Cheers Colin.
    6 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I used to use Liqui-Grease which was a clear liquid which solidified quickly leaving a grease filled whatever.I think it was silicone grease in a solvent which evaporated. No longer available as far as i can see but silicone grease diluted with meths might work. Great for chains and
    bearings
    on a bike so well enough for a little prop shaft. Very low drag too Seems to soften with movement.๐Ÿ‘
    6 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon
    bearings
    for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus
    7 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    steam water pump
    Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the ยฃ250 mark, mind it does have ball race
    bearings
    on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.
    7 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    fuse holder
    Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin
    bearings
    if you did that...
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Are these any good
    Mornin' John, (Well it is here!) I have something very similar and it works well, was using it tonight to make some test leads for Colins Taycol Supermarine, which is chuntering away behind me running in it's new
    bearings
    ๐Ÿ˜‰ If you don't already have such a tool Go for it๐Ÿ‘ Benefit of that one is that it has interchangeable heads for different sizes, Better 'n mine ๐Ÿ˜ญ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Mornin' John, Hows things 'Ol Mate'๐Ÿ˜‰ Basically on a PC the 'Photos' App built into Windows 10 should do the job. Pic shows the opening window displaying the last photos I downloaded / Stored. i haven't experimented much with it yet but it should find any photos / pics on any drive, stick or memory card on your PC. If you are using a Smartphone I don't know, although most seem to have a 'Gallery' function built in! it will depend on which phone you have and which operating system it uses. Best thing to do there is look at the Apps already installed or in the Google or Microsoft App Stores. More later when I've fiddled with the 'Photos' App a bit more. Better shift to a new thread then as well, afore we're arrested for hijacking๐Ÿ˜ฒ (again๐Ÿ˜)! At the moment I'm putting the finishing touches to Colin's Taycol Supermarine. Just reassembled it with new
    bearings
    and ran some tests using my prototype converter board. Runs fore and aft perfectly on a normal brushed ESC.๐Ÿ˜Š Will update the 'Supermarine Resurrection' blog shortly. All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Many thanks for the Snowberry tip John ๐Ÿ‘ It's now your fault the Supermarine rebuild is delayed at least six months ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Actually although I have looked at several relevant build articles (without conversions to other navies configurations) I have done a bit on the rebuild. The new
    bearings
    have arrived and I've just arranged the fitting in one end plate. ๐Ÿ˜‰ More soon, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Thanks Doug. Finally made a decision and bought the Raboesch RAB301-09 shaft with ball
    bearings
    . it comes in at 450mm but can be reduced to the required 350mm of tube length.๐Ÿ˜‰
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Rudders and Propellers
    BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders ๐Ÿค” You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.๐Ÿ˜‰ On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut
    bearings
    , simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only
    bearings
    at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft
    bearings
    no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. ๐Ÿ˜ญ OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. ๐Ÿค” G'night All, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    I agree Colin, only I used a mini gas torch on it's smallest flame, with a damp cloth between the tube and boat and the flame angled away from the boat! twisted with mole grips and a sharp tap on the end with a tack hammer. Nothing too heavy!๐Ÿ˜ฒ Peter; take a butchers in the Raboesch catalogue for shaft tubes with real
    bearings
    . Sold by Cornwall Model boats and others. Otherwise knock the old
    bearings
    out using the old shaft and make / buy new bushes. Preferably sintered phosphor-bronze. The sintered metal absorbs and traps oil ๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Is it possible to fit new
    bearings
    in the existing shaft tube, if not I have managed to get old shafts out by carefully heating the tube using a soldering iron inserted into the end and as it heats up applying rotational force gently back and forth until the the glue gives way. This has worked for me on wooden hulls. Cheers Colin.
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    I was hoping to get some help. I am considering changing the prop shaft for a much stronger one. I am concerned that the existing 35 year old unit with plastic
    bearings
    might not stand up well to the new 1485 motor running at 22,000 rpm potentially, I think.๐Ÿค“ is there a method to removing old shafts without damaging the hull. If this is thought to be a viable proposition, please could I have recommendations for a 13" shaft with suitable
    bearings
    . Thanks. Peter.๐Ÿ˜‰
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    IN THE BEGINNING there was what looked like a pile of rust๐Ÿ˜ฒ which got soaked in WD40 for 24 hours! After washing off with warm water and washing-up liquid, and drying in the sun for a few hours, the
    bearings
    (and copper wire brushes) were oiled, missing connecting links bridged, and 6V (with current limit 3A set) was cautiously applied. Lo and behold she rattled and protested BUT RAN! Oh! That nostalgic smell of ozone, and enough sparks to read a book by๐Ÿค” Next connections were changed, to separate field and armature coils (brush gear), and connected to a standard brushed motor ESC (Graupner Navy 30A) via my prototype converter board, and a Robbe Servo Tester to simulate TX and RX. lo and behold chapter 2; she ran forwards and backwards๐Ÿ˜Š and no sparks! Now dismantled (last 3 pics) to start clean up and replacement of corroded parts. Sorry Col, I broked your motor๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Armature was cleaned up and commutator polished; surprisingly lots of 'meat' on it so motor has not been run much. Next stop; lathe to make some new frame spacers. After that new bearing bushes cos the old Paxolin end plates have worn so that there's about 1/32" slop! Will probably have to turn the drive shaft down from original 1/4" (6.35mm) to 5mm to remove last traces of rust and pitting. Cheers All, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    I've used small brass shafts in brass bushed tubes with oilers in my MTB and they've lasted for 20yrs of average use, although they get a bit noisy when short of oil. Best would be brass shafts in brass tubes with Teflon/Nylon/ bronze etc bushes (a center bush as well if poss - have used these in ic power boats for years with hard steel shafts for the power). Brass is good as it's self lubricating to a degree and with a good quality oil can run quite smoothly and quietly, and is very simple, and when looked after won't corrode like steel or miniature ball or roller
    bearings
    (unless stainless).
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Look on ebay. Oilite
    bearings
    . Sorry for the mistake in the spelling, fingers bigger than the keys. Cheers Colin
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Hi Martin, Colin's Supermarine doesn't have a pressed brass cap. On the inside of the Paxolin frame end plates are two circular paxolin plates, on the out side a plastic (?) holder for the felt oiler pad. The whole shemozzle held together with 4 brass nuts n bolts. The slop in the paxolin plates is somewhere between 1/64" and 1/32" so I reckon it's worth fitting some decent
    bearings
    . I'm going to try and hide 'em inside the paxolin and plastic parts to preserve the 'vintage look'. Wish me luck! Cheers, Doug.
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    My mate said it as Chrodite, with narey a hint of a pause, so I just assumed he knew what it was. I think it's effectively Admiralty brass, more or less. Not quite bronze, which is BLOODY hard! But ace bearing material. Goes brown but doesn't corrode further. He made hundreds of his own bolts from it, but had to sell the boat before he finished it.
    bearings
    for a Supermarine? Mine has its original stuff, Just the end plates of Paxolin with felt oil pads held on with a pressed brass cap. it's worked all these years and there's not a thou. of slop. Amazing. I suppose though, mine never really got a lot of use in the few years I used it. Only odd weekends for as long as a pair of lantern batteries would last. Maybe 10 minutes each! Anyway, if it gets another working, great news. I'd like to see Colin's fleet of old codgers. I'd feel right at home Mind you, I sent off for a brushless ESC today and will have to get some batteries soon to test the motor. its a tiddler, but it's 174 watts, so should work. Worth a try anyway as it cost me nowt. Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Chrodite!! Blimey I thought I would never meet another person who knew that word. My friend had a load to make fixings for his tiny, but lovely Crouch sloop White Mouse. He gave me what he had left and I'm down to about a foot left, so that goes towards making prop shaft
    bearings
    , so, Doug, you've actually got a wee bit already. Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Evenin' Colin, Thanks for the offer. I'm going to use some stuff the Martin sent me, called Chrodite apparently, although I can't find any description or reference to Chrodite anywhere! Looks like brass with an extra ration of tin. Supposedly harder wearing. Anyway, stator and frame spacers etc are now finished.๐Ÿ‘ So after feeding the inner man I'll start measuring up for the bushes and see what I can do about tidying up the drive shafts. Have just sorted out a 'Live Centre' for the mini lathe which should help. I want to hide the bushes inside the original Paxolin cards and the external end plates which contain the felt oiling pad. So ball races are out of the question unfortunately; too large diameter and too thick ๐Ÿค” Needle roller
    bearings
    would be nice, but I ain't got none that small๐Ÿ˜ญ (Nah, admit it Doug you ain't got none at all, they're way too expensive๐Ÿ˜ญ) Amused myself today polishing up all the brass nuts and bolts! Confucius he say "Polishing nuts - very painful" ๐Ÿ˜ Weather should be good for spraying tomorrow so I might fire up the compressor and give my PTB a blast of Pacific Green. ๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers All, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead ๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Oops! This doesn't belong here!๐Ÿค”
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Great Doug, if you need material for the
    bearings
    let me know, did wonder about ball races? But you know me full of useless ideas. As sinatra said you do it your way. Cheers Colin.
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi Rowen, i just wondered how much the brass whips compared with steel, and how much it expands with friction heat if the
    bearings
    bushes are a tightish fit!? Don't think I've come across brass shafts before ๐Ÿ˜‰ Good luck๐Ÿ‘ Doug
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Prop Shafts
    Whilst stripping the hull on the Range Finder Tender I needed to remove the prop shafts. I was surprised to find they were just rods in tubes, no
    bearings
    or seals. The motors are 800's brushed. Is this usual or a 'cheap job'? NPJ
    10 months ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Prop Shafts
    I had this situation on an old Aerokits Crash Tender that I restored. Though there was no motor with it and the hull was in a very poor state I noticed the stern tube was plain steel with no evidence of
    bearings
    though the prop shaft was a good fit. I got round this by lubricating the shaft with Marine Grease (Dynamite Marine) which is a blue grease that I use on my fast electrics. This can be purchased from Wheelspin Models. You can also purchase a grease gun from them which is very useful as you can fill the whole stern tube . On my fast electrics the flexi drive to the prop is in a nylon sleeve that is flexible but does not have
    bearings
    installed. As the brushless motor exceeds 22,000 rpm I can confirm that the grease does a good job as I have not had a failure with it. Boaty๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘
    10 months ago by boaty
    Response
    deck planks
    Paddle boxes well on the way. Just the face to do now. Note they are bolted to hull & fit behind plates holding
    bearings
    . So they are removable.
    11 months ago by hammer
    Forum
    Twin screw
    Hi George, Had this snag with my Graupner Graf Spee as well. in my case the stbd prop tube was misaligned ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Major surgery ๐Ÿ˜ก First off; it's unlikely that the motors are perfectly matched, but if the difference is that noticeable I would suspect the cause lies in propshaft resistance and / or dry motor
    bearings
    ! I would disconnect the prop shafts, oil the motor
    bearings
    and run them in a bit off load for a few a minutes. See if you notice a difference there at low speeds. Also; remove both shafts; clean and oil. Clean the tube end
    bearings
    with a pipe cleaner and some light machine oil. Squirt some Teflon grease into the tube from the prop end. I use a small plastic syringe for that. Before reassembly check as far as possible that neither shaft or tube is bent at all๐Ÿค” If all seems straight reassemble and run the motors at medium speed a minute or two then slowly and see if you can still detect a difference. Reduce the throttle gradually until the motors stop. if one stops significantly before the other that suggests extra friction in that drive train; misalignment somewhere! Thrust washers too tight? BTW: which motors? One ESC or two? Hope this helps! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation
    Some of you may already know part of the story but, spurred on by Martin 'Westquay' and commanded ๐Ÿ˜‰ by Admiral 'Dave' here goes ๐Ÿ˜Ž Dad built her originally when I was about 12, so ca 53-54 years ago. She was 'No name' and free running with a Taycol Target, ahead only, and a 6V (very) wet cell lead acid. (Down to the garage again for a 'top up!) Anyway, to cut a long story slightly sideways ๐Ÿ˜‰ MY daughter Jessica found the boat in the cellar when she was about 12! And immediately wanted to run it on the local lake in Munich, as I was doing with my HMS Hotspur (but that's another shaggy model story!). Sooooooo, she was cleaned up, resprayed pink (๐Ÿ˜ก!) and white, Taycol Target field motor (no reverse) removed and replaced with a Decaperm 6V 7A with 2.75:1 gearbox. 6V 4000mAH SLA (weight half ton or so) Performance was rather sedate. Well it seemed like a good idea at the time! RX, battery and rudder servo were shoehorned into the aft compartment, Jessica nameplates stuck on and off we went. Jessie was happy with the boat and I was happy with the Biergarten. Can't remember where 'the management' was ๐Ÿ˜‰ Jessie soon lost interest so I used the boat as a test bed for a while. So now, 25-26 years on; prompted by Martin, I took the old lady down off the shelf /I TOLD her not climb up there!๐Ÿ˜‰) and started inspecting the damage. Photos attached. (Yes I know 35Megs is not for boats but I didn have nowt else then๐Ÿค) The ancient DIN Audio socket was for charging the RX bat, double throw switch on starboard quarter. The big 'ole was for the telescopic antenna borrowed from an old radio. Needs must when ... The funny looking 'thing' hanging out the transom is a dummy exhaust hiding the bolt holding the antenna bracket inside! Have also started dismantling and renovating the Taycol, which I want to put back in with a reversing circuit and a 2S or maybe 4S LiPo. That was day before yesterday. Yesterday I took out the junk (siren, water pump, servos & micro switches to operate them and the running lights) and wiped the dust off - last two photos, incl. THE JUNK. Stripped of all the junk & Decaperm she weighs 1214gm (about 2lb 11oz). Also tested (cautiously!) the Taycol with a regulated / current limiting PSU. She rattled and protested but ran ๐Ÿ˜Š Now being dismantled, cleaned up and brush gear refurbished. Might also fit proper
    bearings
    ! Next step: clean up the old gal, check for leaks and load capacity. I will probably use the 4S LiPo ca 310gm, the SLA was 660gm, so lots of spare capacity, or maybe I can get her nose out of the water for once More soon Cheers from Munich ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS to DAve and Martin: NO! I don't propose to go full authentic nostalgia with a wet cell accu ๐Ÿ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    engine
    Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the
    bearings
    in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right.
    12 months ago by hammer
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    Hi Pete, glad my memory wasn't playing tricks on me ๐Ÿ˜Š Re Scale speed. 31fpm?? We'd be overtaken by any self respecting baby Moorhen!๐Ÿค” Scale speed isn't simply real speed divided by model scale. More the square root of the scale (expressed as a fraction) multiplied by the real speed. For our tugs this is thus โˆš(1/36) x 11= 1/6 x 11 = 1.83kn or 2mph. Giving a scale speed of around 176 fpm. BTW: you made me curious about the prop tubes in my Southampton! Thanks for the prompt๐Ÿ‘ Careful scratching revealed that they are plastic! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Possibly with PTFE ends, at least inboard. I don't think they are made as or intended as sleeve
    bearings
    . That would introduce too much friction over the whole shaft length. Generally I believe there is at least 0.5mm clearance in small scale prop tubes. That's the way I make mine for 'Plastic Magic' projects anyway ๐Ÿ˜‰ I also concluded that oilers in these tugs would be useless; a) cos they're plastic, b) cos they are horizontal. So just a non-mineral oil based light grease at the ends! ๐Ÿ‘ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    Youโ€™re right, Doug. Lithium shouldnโ€™t be in contact with pond or lake water, even in tiny amounts. I feel like a dope for considering lithium at all because for 20 years I designed & detailed water treatment equipment designed to remove that kind of thing! I took another look at my N scale maintenance supplies & it turns out that the grease I have is the PTFE/Teflon type as you mentioned. Another thing you mentioned about lithium grease thatโ€™s also true is that it does indeed tend to clump & become semi-solid over time. So obviously lithium grease gets crossed off the lube list. I donโ€™t think the Hobby Engine prop shafts have
    bearings
    . it looks to me like the shafts just pass through tubes, essentially using the tubes as long sleeve
    bearings
    . When theyโ€™re greased they turn quite freely, plus the grease blocks water from entering the boat. There arenโ€™t any oil tubes in my boat, either. Like you (& I assume just about every scale boater) I like to run at scale speeds. Anyone who has ever seen a real tug moving along knows that they canโ€™t exactly reach planing speeds & theyโ€™re not likely to be seen towing water skiers. All things being equal, the WYEFORCE tug, which definitely appears to be the boat Hobby Engine designed their models from, has a top speed of 11 knots or 1114 feet per minute. The modelโ€™s scale is 1:36, so itโ€™s top speed should be 0.306 knots or about 31 fpm. I donโ€™t think the model can run that slowly, but again I say itโ€™s about having fun. I wonโ€™t lose any sleep if the model has a faster scale top speed than the real boat as long as it looks good doing it.
    1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    Hi Pete, Afraid you've found the chink in my armour๐Ÿ˜ฒ I enjoy solving problems and building and renovating things immensely, but I'm afraid I'm probably somewhat neglectful on the maintenance side, until it's almost too late and I'm faced with a complete rebuild๐Ÿ˜ฒ Anyway, unless anything happens which makes me dismantle the shafts I leave 'em alone until the end of the season and they go into storage. Then I remove and clean and inspect them check bearing wear etc. Then apply some PTFE/TEFLON grease to the
    bearings
    , refit the shafts in the tube and put a few drops of light machine oil into the oiler pipes that I'm in the process of adding to my ships and boats as they go through my 'yard' in various refit projects. Pics show the oiler pipe I added to my 1960s Sea Scout during her recent refit. The silicon tube simplifies the 'topping up' ๐Ÿ˜‰ Last pic shows the completed 'Machinery Flat' ๐Ÿ˜‰ I dimly remember Lithium grease. Doesn't it have a tendency to coagulate and clump over time, especially at low temperatures? Dim memory cos I was an electronics engineer not mechanical๐Ÿ˜‰ Anyway not sure that Lithium is too environmentally acceptable to the 'jobsworths' in local authorities governing the use of municipal ponds these days. PTFE/TEFLON should not be a problem in this respect and it still works at lo and hi temps. if it's good enough for NASA ..... ? Stuff I use is called 'Gear-Flon', Check out http://www.gear-flon.de/Produkte/ I also use this grease in the rudder stocks, and anywhere else there is a moving joint. Keeps things moving and prevents rusting๐Ÿ˜Š There are other guys on this site who swear by various curious mixtures, but since I (and I suspect also you!) am not interested in maximum revs ultra fast racing electrics I don't think that's worth the bother. Many don't like grease of any type, claiming that it hardens or adds drag on the shaft. The jury is still out on that! A smear of PTFE/TEFLON on the tube
    bearings
    , a few drops of light machine oil after every run, including the motor
    bearings
    (if your running brushed motors KEEP IT OFF THE CARBON BRUSHES!!!), and I'm happy. So are my boats so far, Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    engine
    Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome. I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the
    bearings
    . This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.
    1 year ago by hammer
    Response
    S 100 Schnellboot RC build
    Hi Ron, did you ever try 3 props for comparison? If yours is the 1:35 italeri I don't see any problem with space for 3 shafts. I have an approx 1:35 MTB currently with 2 shafts, 'as seen and bought' next season I propose to fit a 3rd motor and shaft: port and starboard for cruising, switch-in centre motor for "All ahead flank"! BTW: I have a couple of kits for the S100 "Schnellboot, otherwise known as E Boat, E for Enemy๐Ÿ˜‰, one Airfix and one Revell, both 1:72. I intend to fit them with 3 motors as well - 'Plastic Magic' ๐Ÿ˜ Motors already sourced from X-Drive, shafts will be home brew from silver steel and brass tube with sintered phosphor bronze
    bearings
    . "Nothing is impossible", I drive a Toyota ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Sea Queen prop shaft
    Obtained a length of Stainless Steel 600 mm long 5 mm diameter (it is slightly greater diameter than the Raboesch
    bearings
    ), used 400 wet and dry - couple (or three) rubs - check - repeat, actually it took some time but now fits, only one end, as the prop end fits the bearing. Still have to put a thread on it, will take mturpin's advice. I only actually needed a shaft about 60 mm longer than the Raboesch. One thing I forgot to mention is the fact that when I decided to up size to a 5 mm shaft, and the Raboesch maintenance free, is that the outer tube did fit the pre-made hole in the keel but there was no movement for adjustment. Making that hole larger was one of the most difficult bits up to now. Had to make - what I would call a prop shaft hole enlarger - bit of a bodge but it worked.
    1 year ago by AndyG009
    Forum
    Sea Queen prop shaft
    Based on what has been said, what I have done is order a length of 5 mm SS longer than required. Only problem that I have is that there appears to be (based on a 300 mm length) is that the SS and the Raboesch
    bearings
    are supposed to be 5 mm diameter, but either the bearing is less than 5 mm or the steel is greater than 5 mm. So the SS will likely need reducing slightly (very slightly) in diameter, and once cut to length a M5 tread on the prop end. This will mean that there would not be two couplings. Will let people know how it goes once SS arrives and it gets 'modified'.......
    1 year ago by AndyG009
    Forum
    Sea Queen prop shaft
    Heartily agree Rex ๐Ÿ‘ Two such couplings in series is a guarantee for misalignment and high vibration potential ๐Ÿค” which wouldn't do the 'posh'
    bearings
    much good! ๐Ÿ˜ก I would move the motor. Bon chance, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    The rudder assembly was made using a 200mm prop shaft squared of on the lower 3/4 of the shaft to allow for secure fixing for the rudder made from three layers of 4mm ply. The rudder was fixed to the shaft using 2ton epoxy and held in place with three pieces of brass strip which are bolted through the rudder The prop tube
    bearings
    were cut of the ends and fixed into the hull for the rudder shaft , I have also installed rubber o rings to insure no water can come in through the rudder posts.
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) PT 109
    PT 109 The famous ww2 PT boat skippered by JF Kennedy (later to be President of the USA) This has be one of my have to have model boats and it was by luck that I found one for sale on a model boat club's web site in 2013, ยฃ100.00 later and a journey from Cumbria to Yorkshire and back, I had myself a ProBoat PT 109 This was a ready made RTR model when new and is 40in (1m) long, the boat needed some small repairs but after a test run I found that the running gear was noisy and on investigation discovered that both propshaft were bent and had no
    bearings
    from new, the couplings were just direct connections. So with great care I replaced both prop-shafts, propellers, coupling for two double Huco's (universal) and the single ESC by two new Aqua speed controllers and both motors with Graupner speed 600's Note I also foamed the front compartments to make it unsinkable in theroy. (Motor: Graupner 600s) (ESC: 2x Aquapower) (7/10)
    1 year ago by CB90
    Forum
    Graupner Elke HF 408
    BTW Allen, Dave's comments re 'old motors' go in the right direction but the basic thought and measurement technique are not quite right. There should never be ANY ohm meter reading between armature coils (i.e. motor supply connections) and case! Do by all means try this, but anything less than infinity, '---' on most digital meters, means a scrap motor๐Ÿ˜ก This test really requires an insulation test using what is commonly called a Mega meter. This has a crank generator which puts high voltage (ca 1000V+๐Ÿ˜ฒ) across the unit under test. it measures the insulation resistance in millions of Ohms, hence the name Mega! For us modellers not a particularly useful or practical test! The most common form of deterioration in old motors is cracking and flaking of the insulating varnish of the armature windings. This does not normally cause shorts or spurious measurable resistance to the case but causes internal shorts in the windings thus reducing their resistance and therefore increasing the current they draw for a given voltage applied, as Dave indicated. There are two ways you can check this, if you have a decent Ohm meter, one less, one more accurate. The less accurate is done externally by measuring across the normal motor connections and thus include the resistance of the brushes and connections. Connect the meter where you normally connect the output from the ESC. Slowly rotate the motor so you can feel the slight 'click' as the motor moves from one winding to the next (or one magnetic pole to the next if you like๐Ÿ˜‰) You should see a few Ohms resistance at each pole. Value depending on the quality of the carbon brushes. Better quality brushes (more copper content) = lower resistance. Note and compare each 'pole' reading. If one 'pole' reading is significantly lower than the others then that winding has an internal short๐Ÿ˜ก The motor may overheat in that winding, depending on how many wires are affected, and fail eventually. The more accurate method is to dismantle the motor and measure the winding resistances directly at the commutator, i.e. without the brushes in circuit. But this is only useful for nuts like me ๐Ÿ˜ as in my 50 year old Taycol Target renovation. I was lucky no shorts and all windings same resistance + or - a gnat's whatsit!๐Ÿ˜Š Sooooo, to cut a long story sideways๐Ÿ˜‰I think it's very unlikely your motor has any internal problems. I recently found one of the ancient Mabuchis I originally fitted in my HMS Hotspur destroyer 51 years ago, it still clattered along,
    bearings
    shot but electrically still OK ๐Ÿ˜Š Just take what you've got now down to the lake and give her a Go. if she looks right then she most probably is! As my German colleagues would say "Always a hand's width of water under your keel". Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS: "But trust me on the sunscreen" ๐Ÿ˜
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Prop shaft bearing
    The specs suggest this is suitable and I doubt if you will be exceeding the max speed! I have used small
    bearings
    in the past on projects, mainly for model steam, and have had problems with small
    bearings
    . Looking forward to seeing the build progress
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Response
    Prop shaft bearing
    Sorry I can't find the one I bought from Model Fixings but here is an equivalent tech data Bearing details bore 5mm OD 10mm Width 4mm 2 shields MB-032 Max rpm Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball
    bearings
    : One of the most commonly used
    bearings
    , these types are manufactured with metal shields inserted into the outer raceway, these fit in closely to the inner race providing protection against light mechanical damage, some protection against the ingress of moisture, dust and other foreign matter and serve to retain the pre-filled grease in the bearing. Shields can be easily removed for applications that only require 1 shield Benefits: Provides light mechanical protection, limits moisture and dirt ingress, lubricated for life, Branded MR1052Z Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing 5x10x4mm ยฃ2.80 ex VAT Dynamic load C =0.4116 kN Static load Co=0.1568 kN Max speed=60000 rpm
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Prop shaft bearing
    Excellent ๐Ÿ‘ I now have a new task for my recently acquired mini lathe. Already have several mini
    bearings
    waiting for something to do. Have already used the lathe to make new shafts, only logical to continue with the tubes and bearing housings. Ta for the shove ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Prop shaft bearing
    Prop shaft bearing I purchased a standard propshaft with Phosphor bronze
    bearings
    again from a well-known supplier, however I had also fancied a Raboesch type with a bearing at the motor end however at ยฃ30 plus think again. So I researched the bearing type and found at ยฃ2.50 each it was worth a go at making my own so quick sketch and an order placed from Modelfixings.com. A simple piece of machining and the part was made. A simple enough job to remove the existing bearing and slide on the new housing and it made a significant difference to the โ€œfeelโ€ of the shaft when rotated. I also made a simple collar to retain the shaft in the hosing.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    Hi Graham You do have to support the prop shaft close to the
    bearings
    at each end. This is vital if you are to avoid a slight imbalance developing into an uncontrolled whipping and as you have experienced, damage to the shaft assembly. The support needs to be firmly attached to the hull and shaft close to the bearing to provide both vertical and horizontal support. The supports should ideally be within 1/8" of the
    bearings
    . If you are reinstalling the prop shaft then, as others have suggested, it may be an opportunity to move the motor towards the stern and use a shorter shaft, but still providing support near the
    bearings
    .
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Prop shaft
    HI Ed, long time no speak. if you want up-graded prop shafts, have a look at Raboesch, they do shafts with roller
    bearings
    and great seals, look on their site , but , order from either Deans Marine, or Cornwall Model Boats, expensive but truly superb Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo


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