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Good buy from Lidl
I dont use Lidl much, but Aldi seem do all the sandpaper and bits for their tools such as
s WHEN they sell the tools. Maybe Lidl do the same.
1 year ago by Wingcoax
Lidl disk sander
Can't get anything like this here in South Africa. I had to put up with a Ryobi Mini Belt and disc Sander
1 year ago by Ianh
Aft cockpit deck
I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit
Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side.
Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner.
Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my
(I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. if there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly
2 years ago by mturpin013
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a
to fit the hull bottom.
I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape.
Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.
2 years ago by AlanP
The seats are all installed and soon it will be time to sand, but with temperatures of -21C in the garage shop area where the power
is located, the job of sanding will wait a bit.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a small outboard motor?
2 years ago by Ron
After using my bench mounted
on the chines, the glueing of the skins began this afternoon.
3 years ago by Ron
King-Fisher changes made
Planning to use my
for chines to match the bulkheads as shown in the plan.
I do other woodworking such as this toy barn, which I just finished for my grandson's birthday next week.
3 years ago by Ron
The deck is laid on a sub deck as normal. The trick this time is making the thin planks. After cutting strips off the edge of a 1inch board on a circular saw, they go through my home made thicknesser. This is a cheep
with a bench mount. To which I have added a roller near the end of the belt. See the photo. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PUSH AGAINST THE DIRECTION OF THE BELT. 💀 With the belt it will jam the roller or fingers.
5 years ago by hammer
Especially for Shaun.
I have a few drawings and photo's of the mast, but no two seem to be the same, so I have taken a bit from all of them.
Most drawings show the uprights made from propellers so 3mm thick plasticard was used, this was cut and sanded to the profile shown on two of the drawings, mast and cross pieces are plastic tube and the rest is made from plasticard scrap.
Held together with 12ba nuts and bolts and 10ba to hold it onto the cabin roof.
One drawing shows hardwood in between the cabin roof and the mast bracket so small pieces of teak have been shaped to take the slope of the cabin roof. Surprising how far a
will throw a small piece of wood 😁
Just needs painting and fitting now
6 years ago by AlanP
Under cut the groove with the Dremel. (that is the most difficult job in the build). The garboard strake is also under cut. Put the plank in the groove,(glue on the edge) hold the point down, slide forward into the groove in the stem. Pins to hold the plank up in the groove. Another pin in the transom can be left until later. The
mounted on the bench is my home made thickness-er. A bracket bolted to the side , a copper tube acts as a roller, adjustable for hight. MUST FEED THE TIMBER AGAINST THE ROTATION OF THE BELT. Otherwise fingers will be thicknessed Don't ask. 😭