All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support
Join Us On Social Media!
🏝️ About This Website
☝️ Terms of Service
Model Boats Website
Model Boats Website
Boat Clubs & Lakes
Plans & Docs
H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
Thinking of a future project and decided upon another launch type vessel. My earlier Daman 4207 project gave an interesting model with good performance.
The Brave class of FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) caught my attention. Can remember the incredible performance they offered when entering service. Only two of the class were used by the RN, although variants were used by other navies.
Have decided to use proprietary Glass fibre hulls in future as they probably cost little more than building from scratch using wood and resin. They give a robust and watertight hull, but one which still requires thought to complete properly.
There are several companies that offer a “Perkasa” hull, a Brave class derivative with an almost identical hull. From previous experience have decided to limit my models to 40” long, larger vessels become difficult to transport and handle. After much research considered the hull offered by MTB Hulls in Gibraltar met my requirements best.
The inquiry to MTBHulls was well handled; the quotation acceptable, so placed an order. Was pleasantly surprised at the shipping costs. From the UK these often approach the cost of the hull, but from Gibraltar they are much more reasonable. Delivery only took 7 days.
1 year ago by RHBaker
Enclosing the controls.
I am following your post with interest as I had been thinking about building a Police Launch in the near future. Models with aft cockpits can present issues when installing RC gear and I have experienced this when building an Aerokits Sea Scout and five years ago when restoring the Crash Tender.
Simplest method is to install the servo horizontally and raise the cockpit floor but this can create problems in itself unless the floor is sealed around the edges to prevent water entering the compartment.
The seat idea is a realistic method as it could be eliminate the problems that I mentioned above as well as providing easier access to the RC gear.
Keep up the good work
6 months ago by boaty
Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
Hi Boatshed....How is our refurb going? I'm currently building a new Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I've just started so keen to get as much shared info on any "gotchas". I see yours has a single prop....what motor does it have?
My kit is single prop and want to get the most economical/powerful brushless as I can, but as a novice, don't have much of an idea at present.
7 months ago by StuartE
105 PBR PIBBER.
U.S. Navy PBR 31Mkll. Patrol Boat River.
This is a vessel that I'm building from scratch. To achieve accuracy I will be using a Tamiha 1/35 scale kit and scaling that kit up to 1/9th scale for the vessel I am building. it will measure up to almost 1 metre in length.
7 months ago by sandkb
Shroud for Model Air Boat
I' m new here and hope to link up with other model builders. I only build static models, and have or are in the progress of building different types of boats. Cabin Crusers, Ski boats, Air Boats, House Boat. I have about 10 models in various stages of building and repair.
This being an introduction and an inquiry. Does anyone build air boats? I have a shroud question. I used super glue on my early builds and they havent with stood the test if time.
Looking for feedback
7 months ago by retirement-hobby
New to Forum
Hello fellow model boaters. I'm new here so forgive my posting mistakes. Just wanted to introduce myself, I've been building model boats (static) for about 5 years. I mostly build my concept of a boat, however I have built from some plans. I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that. I also have a fascination with air boats and have built several. Does anyone deal with soldering metal components, having a problem with material. Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build. Are any of the clubs focused on non RC models? Looking to learn and share!👍
7 months ago by retirement-hobby
Torben Tug boat
I haven't built this boat/tug. But I am half way through building an Aeronaut Classic Sports Boat. I'm far from happy with the build of it. Bottom skins are just over an eighth of an inch too short and the side rails to fit the skins to are of one sixteenth thick, these are too thin in my thoughts. I would certainly never buy another Aeronaut model to build. it was a waste of £80. I have seen a build of the same model from about 4 years ago and since then they have skimped on wood for the build. Cheap wood to get a larger profit on the model. Steer clear of them in my mind.
7 months ago by BOATSHED
Paddle Tug Iona - the hull
So... here is a compressed build blog of my paddle tug Iona... and I'm playing catch-up as the vessel is 95% complete and has been sailed already, but there may be some interest in what I've done. Iona was scratch-built off plan and has turned out to be the cheapest build so far out of 3 I've made, mainly because I was able to source materials from the leftovers box! it's a 'mixed-media' boat 😜using traditional methods of plank on frame hull, with paddles made on my 3D printer, and other parts turned on the lathe. So starting with the hull, frames were drawn out, transferred to some scrap 9mm ply and cut out on my bandsaw, along with the keel. These were assembled on a build board with some right angle brackets / measuring tools and test fitted before being stuck in place with epoxy. This was quite difficult as the shape of the hull is critical and comes right at the start of the build. I did remake 1 frame to correct alignment. The deck stringers need to bend in 2 directions, so some steaming with a carpet steam cleaner attached to some tubes worked and the wood clamped in place to dry. Outboard sponsons (?) were fitted to make a frame for the paddle boxes to fit on. Then a large sheet of ply forms the bottom of the hull, and the only job left to complete was the (tedious) planking. This was my 1st plank on frame ship... and it took ages. I think it came out reasonably OK but I'm not a perfectionist and I know if I'd spent more time it could be better... but I didn't! Next blog will feature building the paddle boxes and superstructure.🤓
7 months ago by Harvey Kitten
Paddle Tug Iona- paddle boxes & superstructure
Building the paddle boxes was remarkably easy, once the 1mm ply had been steamed for bending. I decided to build the boxes first and make sure the paddles fitted inside later, the idea being that all this would come apart for maintenance should it be necessary.
(it usually is!). There are few models to be found on the internet to use as reference and hardly any images of the original tug. And to confuse matters, PS Iona also existed as a passenger ship, as well as tug, and looked a bit different. The superstructure is really simple and quick to build, with some more planking! Am liking planking small areas now. The funnels came from some scrap plastic tubing in the garage... just the right diameter too, a lucky find. These will screwed in place from below once I have the other funnel parts made. I plan to run the tug on batteries rather than steam, as I am a relative novice to model
. The whole deck will be fitted with 1mm ply as a base before... more planking! Before all this is glued in place, I thought it best to water test the ship first and see how much ballast I am likely to need.
7 months ago by Harvey Kitten
CNC boat kits...?
Not much point uploading a .pdf, unless it has some unusual conversion software. CNC machines work off G Code.
The work area is critical for model boat work. Typical parts are long and thin. The eShapeoko I am building is a nominal 1m x 500mm, which lets me do a 36" keel piece. I would like to put out G Code for cutting the EeZebilt boats, but am not sure how to standardise it so that many CNC machines will be able to use it. Different CNC controllers seem to use subtly different G Code commands...
8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas?
To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified.
Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I wanted to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me.
Looking at potential scales and finished sizes.
* 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64"
* 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75"
* 3/8" equals 8" x 32"
I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull.
Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections.
Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats.
Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe
8 months ago by Joe727
Davits and falls
Happy New Year.
Boats all done and lashed down.
Dreadnought had multiple aerials slung between the masts. As far as I can make out they were connected onwards to a fitting just about at deck level right at the stern and also I think below the forward jack stay. I would have expected there to be connections down to the bridge or the housing forward of the after funnel. None of the photos I have are clear enough to show all the rigging, so some extent I am going to have to guess. She must have had signal halyards from presumably the main yard, but again where did they come down to. The bridge does not have much open space around the main house, so they must have come down to the upper bridge to presumably a rack? Any ideas?
I have fitted canvas dodgers around the bridge, but am not too happy with them. At this scale very difficult.
We have good shipbuilding weather, -12c at midday today. They are ice fishing on our lake.
8 months ago by Gdaynorm
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats.
My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions.
I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
8 months ago by reilly4
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal.
Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site.
Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals.
About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what scale modelling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits.
Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows.
I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow members have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats.
WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams.
NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'.
So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. if I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections.
I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT -
if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately?
Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams.
True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." if at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... !
Regards, Doug 😎
BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.
8 months ago by RNinMunich
Book on Sailing Barges
I have always like the English sailing workboats and have built some fishing boats. Now my interest turned to Sailing Barges, found this nice book - Sailing Barges by Frank Carr. It's full of etchings, photos and some line drawings. Think this will be helpful in scratch building a barge. Over 450 pages and found a lightly used copy for $18.00 USD, on eBay. Regards, Joe
9 months ago by Joe727
Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.
8 months ago by BOATSHED
Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
The prop-shaft, coupling and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to.
I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡
I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞
Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to.
I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!.
The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull.
After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end.
A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set.
The next step will be to plank the deck.
8 months ago by robbob
Is it a boat is it a train?no its a snowplough seen at locomotion near Durham . Nice bit
put to Another use
8 months ago by marky
Sea Trials and mods.
Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.
8 months ago by BOATSHED
Boatshed, I see you are in the UK, I'm glad to see they sell this styrene there. Good stuff, it takes a while to get a good collection, you must have been at it for a while too. What are you building with styrene? Cheers, Joe
8 months ago by Joe727
Older Billings Models
Hi Garth & Brianaro, l too have been building Billings kits, although l do find some of there instructions a bit hit and miss, but l think any kit has its challenge. My first Billing kit was the Norden fishing boat, my second kit was the Boulogne-Etaples, now l am currently building the St Canute tug, but l took a rest during the run up and over Xmas, to be honest l am struggling with the hull planking, so l will knuckle down very soon. I have also built the Aero-naut Diva which was a fine kit to make. Your chat reminded me of my early school days (late 50’s) when l used to spend my paper round money of the “Keilcraft boat kits” (May have got the kit name wrong), the boat l recall was called the Mermaid, does anyone out there remember these early kits? Anyway chaps l’ve attached photos of my current finished kits, l always like to see other completed kits!
Happy new year and good modelling for 2019
8 months ago by Richard7
Book on Sailing Barges
Chris, Thank for the information, I will look into that book.
I started in RC Boating but building and racing several classes of sailboats, including several US1Meter class. Being a much better builder than skipper, I was drawn to schooners that many club members had. Got interested in working sailcraft due to the history and the slower, power of these craft.
The Gaff Rigged Handbook by Jihn Leather is one of my favorite build guides. Yes, I really like Gaff Rigging. This book was great for lots of rigging details and sails... See photo example.
9 months ago by Joe727
Lovely Job, well done, these are excellent little boats. I fancy building the bigger one now in the Aeronaut range. Make sure you get some weight in her though. Mine flew across the pond the other day and turned over. (No damage, just my pride) it’s way to fast. Good luck with your Maiden 😉
9 months ago by Sifi70
Mamoli Puritan yacht plans
What-ho chaps, hope you all had a merry one. I appear to have become the 'proud' owner of a Mamoli kit for the Americas Cup cup boat 'Puritan'. Everything is in the box with the exception of the plans, instructions and the keel and formers to build the hull. There is evidence the the owner had started to build the boat, some of the detail parts have been assembled, companion ways and the like, but all the hull planking appears to still be in its pack. I suspect he took the missing parts out to start the hull but got distracted. Sadly he died earlier this year but the kit is a few years old.
Now this is where you come in, hopefully. Has anyone out there built this now out of production kit and still has the plans that came with it? If so can you send me a copy, I'll pay the copying and postage costs, or can you send scans of the plans?. The interweb has yielded a set of lines and I think I can get them into scale, having found the basic dimensions of the boat, but the actual plans might yield information to ease the build.
Either way I hope to produce a build blog along the way - but I've set out to do that before and failed on a Type 21 frigate HMS Active built from scratch, got carried away building the boat.
Thanks in advance
9 months ago by smiggy
Oh, NO Water Everywhere!
I hope everything Will workshops out for you wish the crack
It looks like a verk fine boat you got theres
And i wish you and Dough and everybody on the Model boats a Happy New Building Year
// JÖRGEN from Sweden
9 months ago by jugge
Day Two Springer
Springer build log for website
Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously.
So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me....
Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time.
Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo.
Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos...
Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come.....
Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match.
I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees.
I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask.
I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget.
Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place.
Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive.
Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy.
9 months ago by Joe727
This one is 31".
Making things difficult for myself by trying to model it on a specific boat. Having said that the building is the bit I like best.
9 months ago by steve-d
Scratch built yacht.
Many thanks for the reply and the offer of help. I have built several model boats of different styles and also a 'Bella' yacht kit from Aeronaut. I prefer building plank on frame and find it quite therapeutic especially as I love wood. My next step is to build a beautiful sailing boat hull and the 1mtr style would suit I think. I am not planning to race the boat and might even not rig it but just have the pleasure of the build.
If you can help I would be obliged best regards Chris G
9 months ago by ChrisG
Thank you all for the reply the boat I'm building is a Clyde Puffer with a tiller arm for the rudder so I used the Queen as an example of a boat with a tiller again thank you .
9 months ago by Newby7
"Searcher" was a Graham Goodchild design offered as a free plan in "Model Boats" in December 1981. Here is my version , many years in the building and finally nearing completion. Access to the hull on the original design was via a hatch above the cockpit - I had no faith in my ability to make it water tight so went for removable grp. hatches. The model is activated by a reed switch just in front of the rear hatch, which saves me the hassle of doing/undoing all the nuts (this had not been fitted when I took the first picture). The rear hatch gives me easier access to the drive coupling. The name "Nimbus2" is in honour of one of Dan Dare's spaceships in the Eagle comic. The third picture shows the ship in its final state with added 'enhancements' and working lights.
10 months ago by rpbidgood
Things are going well with the radiotherapy ,spend most of the day travelling to hospital,treatment then back home again and sleeping. so not much happening on the
front, still only 4 more days to go 😁.Cheers Marky
10 months ago by marky
Trying to learn to use this forum properly I am publishing a video that shows an experiment I did to find out how fast the stepper motor could turn. I am using in my model of the sailboat Carina 2 stepper motors like the one shown in the video to work as a winch to control the position of the sails in a system solution where I am realizing this my own way to implement the sheets as shown on the original sailboat Endeavour. This requires my sheet control system to control the length of the sheet of the mainsail i.e. over a range of 8.3 meters. This requires the drum which is turned by the stepper motor to make 21 full turns. Details will be published in my report from scratch of building my Carina.
10 months ago by Hellmut1956
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) it's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made in China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. it's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". in saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)
10 months ago by jbkiwi
more money than sense
Sooo glad you went for wood and not paint👍
BTW How did you manage to enlist God's help?
Didn't know HE was a model boat enthusiast!
But then again HE did command the building of the Ark 😁
Yours tongue firmly in cheek, Doug 😎
10 months ago by RNinMunich
A return to the hobby!
Greetings from Australia,
Hi mate, Model
is the most rewarding hobby.Great for us oldies to while away the hours in retirement. I have been
for 30 years and cant give it up. Enjoy your hobby and be proud of what you build. You get better as you progress.
10 months ago by sidley70
Cabin roof hatches
Many thanks for your reply on my question. I wasn't sure what it was. I am still wondering does any one still use Cascamite. I have built several boats in years gone by with it. I am building an Aeronaut Classic at the moment and the glue that was recommended was Deluxe materials Speed Bond. in the instructions it doesn't state what glue to use, there is a small tube of glue with the kit but the instructions say about using dope to seal the wood it may melt the glue. Apart from that I'm far from happy with the way it is made. I would have been better off spending an extra £20 and getting a Sea hornet. I have had to go and buy another piece of sixteenth thick marine ply as the bottom skins do not fit the skeleton. I have used the Depron build sheet as well. I have never built a model on one of these in the past. I built a Sea Hornet in the early 70's and it's still in my shed and needs restoring, But she's still well solid. I'm not so sure that this Aeronaut Classic will stand the use and time that the Sea Hornet has. Has anyone else on here built one of these and found the same problem with it?
10 months ago by BOATSHED
aero-naut mowe 2 kit. my first rc model boat with a few extras.The kit was ok to build but the prop coupling was a length of silcone tube ? it spun off at the first test run.This was the start of me fitting universal couplings to my boats.The company were being mean using a cheap piece of tube.It runs very quiet and smooth but needed a lot of front end ballast .i made this to try and drag my grandson away from his ipad,phone and the game of fortnite .I tried to get him to help build and run it but to no avail.I now am enjoying a second childhood building boat kits !
11 months ago by keithtindley
Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen
This is being built from the Jotika Sea Queen Kit.
The kit is quite comprehensive but I need to check the fittings supplied as some of the look a bit small for a 1:12 Boat. Also decided to change the Motor from the existing Caldercraft to an MFA Torpedo 850 as I believe the Caldercraft Motor only manages walking pace.
First thing was to built a building board. I need this to also cope with a VMW 46" RAF Crash Tender.
11 months ago by Ianh
Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''
Hi John. interested to know what kind of offers you have had. Boaty, yes Veron did an RTTL Rescue Target Towing Launch, they featured in the black and white film ' The sea shall not have them'. This though is their fast patrol boat. I believe it's called a 'Trinity class patrol boat and some were supplied to the Trinidad and Tobago navy. You will sometimes see the model bares the name Coureland Bay'. I have seen photos on this website of her. They were built by Vosper Thornycroft in Portsmouth. if I was building her I would put two meaty brushless motors n her which should bring a sprite lay planing performance. I have fitted two Graupner 900s in mine, which give her an excellent turn of speed. These are brushed motors but are not available any more. The hull space is vast so easily accommodates batteries with space for sound system working radar etc.
11 months ago by kevinsharpe
Kingsmere Model Boat Club
Me too Boatshed, since about 6 or 7 and I'm now 67!
Keep on model
! Cheers, Doug 😎
11 months ago by RNinMunich
Hi All. Many may already recognise the 'nutter from Munich' 😁
but I just wanted to say-
I first stumbled across this site and enrolled here in 2014 but was still in harness and trundling around the world working with various navies and shipyards on all sorts of naval ships from small Fast Patrol Boats through subs, Corvettes and Frigates up to LPDs, Heli and Escort Carriers. So I didn't have much time for model building (sounds better than 'Modelling' somehow 😁😲) or contributions to the site, but I did try to keep up to date with advances, as I always did in my profession - Naval COMMS systems - and dipped in and out of this site without getting involved.
Since I retired last year I have become an active member and have also dipped into, and registered with some, other Model Boat forums in various countries.
But in all of them I have never found such an international, friendly and knowledgable bunch as on this site. Or such a well organised site where it is 'relatively' easy to find the info you need, or to just ask and get informed answers pronto. Sure there is room for improvement in some areas but "Tempus fugit" and things move on - so is it also on this site.
I understand that a facelift and changes are afoot😉 whatever the outcome I'm sure you won't find a better web site for informed (bin there done that!) info on model boat / ship building as well as research on the original vessels this side of the asteroid belt!
Welcome aboard and Happy Building and Sailing,
All the best, cheers, Doug 😎
12 months ago by RNinMunich
No Martin, I don't think so.
Once again; it's not so much what you say but HOW you say it.
If your chat with the 'only geezer' was in the same vein as your recent posts I can fully understand that the reaction was 'don't call us - we'll call you'.
Patience is NOT an excuse for wasting time. it is an essential component of successful negotiation. During my career I was often involved in systems design and contract negotiations for COMMS systems for ships yet to be ordered and built. Many of such projects took 5 to 7 years or more to come to fruition. My perseverance and patience paid off.
I was the one who signed the contracts! I often heard from the shipyards and/or navies involved that they were put off by the 'pushy' tactics used by my competitors with less patience.
Tolerance is also not a weakness. Lack of it IS.
Differing opinions are fine, just depends how they are expressed.
Denigrating and insulting others who have differing interests as morons is not the 'fine English art' !
Re: Dumbphone control Apps; YOU don't necessarily need to know (a Luddite wouldn't want to or need to anyway!) but the parents of your grand kids SHOULD in this day and age. Tell 'em to look for Apps like 'Quiet Time'. This enables them to define times that the kids can access the web online via smartphone and when it is blocked.
And no, the kids can't normally get around it. if they can; leave 'em alone to make their millions!
Re: Woodies; Super duper. You have seen that I have put a tremendous amount of effort into renovating the Sea Scout that my Dad built in the early sixties. I enjoyed the process and learned a lot doing it. But I am not fixed on that particular line of model boat / model ship building. if that's your only thing - fine. But why berate those of us who take a wider view and also have an interest and find challenges in making shipboard functions work in miniature in all sorts of ships?
"I really couldn't give a sh*t if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff"
No, of course you don't have to pretend to like 'all the other stuff' but you also don't have to decry those that DO like the other stuff, as you often do the tug aficionados for instance.
OK, I can understand an aversion to warships as such if someone is a died in the wool pacifist, but nevertheless some appreciation of the skills involved in producing such outstanding warship models as seen on this site is not out of order, or...?
(Bye the bye; I've often noticed that 'pacifists' have a particularly aggressive way of expressing themselves!?)
After 30 odd years here in Germany I'm out of touch with the ground roots in UK, but over here things don't look so black. There are thriving model boat clubs all over. W.r.t. 'exciting aspects'; there are clubs in Germany, Holland and France and italy also I think who happily and skilfully re-enact sea battles and convoy battles. There is at least one club in South England that also does that I believe, in Southampton or Portsmouth?
Don't get Channel 4 here (re Battle of Britain re-run you mentioned) but I do get DMAX, which shows a series called 'Die Modellbauer'. in this the crémé de la crémé of German model making is depicted and judged for the annual cup at the international Model Show here.
It covers everything from fire trucks, excavators, boats and ships of all kinds, and aircraft of of all types including turbine jets.
Criteria for the competition being: 1) Shall be externally identical to the original in every detail (down to the rivets!)l, 2) Shall be able to perform each and every function of the original. 3) 150 days to design, complete and demonstrate the model.
The point being that with extremely few solo exceptions the models are almost always built by a father and son partnership.
So, sorry if the situation is drastically different in UK but 'over here' it ain't so black as you paint. Maybe it's a question of the attitude of the parents?
BTW: for a fantastic example of 'modelling on a mammoth scale' pop across to Hamburg and have a look at the 'Miniature Wonderland' in the old Hafen City. All 1/87 scale, the largest model railway layout in the world, but also all types of aircraft and ships in action as well.
Also shown from time to time on various documentary TV channels.
BTW2: don't worry about the brass bashing, I'll work it out for myself.
Have fun with the Taycols.
Cheers, Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Model Slipway Tamar 1/16th lifeboat for sale fitted with bow thruster and servo,will come with two cans halford paint one indigo blue other VW orange
Reason for sale is with only previously building one model this may be suitable for a more experienced builder,every thing in place for a beautiful finished lifeboat,photos available
With the model being at this stage it may be possible to send by courier
Would consider swap for a cruiser i.e. Huntsman /Jules Verne /Perkasa with fibre glass hull with two props
NOW WITHDRAWN FROM SALE
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist!
Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33".
I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her.
I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150!
Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey?
My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue?
Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
2 years ago by Skydive130
Seat Trials and mods.
Hi Rob, thank goodness these changes/modifications have come before I get to that stage so I can incorporate them in mine. The boat looks really good on the water, and if ever I get to your neck of the woods I'd really like to see it close up as it's certainly an inspiring build. My build is coming on OK but the detailing takes such a long time to get it to the right standard, but this is the enjoyable part of modelling for me. The other thing that's slowing things down is my 5 year old grandson who wants a boat as well so I'm building a Freeman 22 alongside my crash tender.
PS keep us informed of any other updates
1 year ago by mturpin013
Seat Trials and mods.
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle.
Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro.
When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!!
These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to.
I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally.
I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape.
The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !!
The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical.
The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable.
I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord.
I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs.
I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.
1 year ago by robbob
TUG BOAT PLANS
Does anybody have, or can suggest a source, for tug boat hull plans for the attached vessel? Will be building it as semi, or "stand off" scale so anything approximating will be fine.
1 year ago by RHBaker
Inspiration for beautiful boat builders ;-)
Mike, to me scratch building is just that. You start with bugger all and end up with a model boat. if you start with a kit, you're kit building and if you have to modify it to correct it you're kit-bashing. All perfectly valid, especially if you are using scratchbuilding skills to make a good job of a kit, as I had to do when a client asked me to make up an Amati Riva kit. Biggest pile of crap I ever opened the lid on. Having already built two Rivas from a pile of plywood, a plank of pear and a set of stolen Riva works drawings I was able to kit-bash the garbage into something I could deliver, but never again!
I wouldn't know how to share plans, but have em all here if you can inform me how. I have Gary Griswold plans...useful, but crap. You will be correcting the build as you go along, but it's no big deal, just time consuming and a bloody nuisance! I have also a pile (roll) of drawings from The Rudder magazine, an American publication from the 20s. These are of real craft, not models, but that's irrelevant, really, when sections are given.
1 year ago by Westquay
What transmitter , receiver
Hi, I’ve built one boat now I’m building a replica of my ship, what is a good 4 or 6 channel transmitter that’s not too expensive to get please. I’m a novice that’s willing to learn.