Place

PMPBA ,Portland Model Power Boat Association

This will be taking place in Tualatin Oregon,im expecting 30 plus ships and many other types of boats to show up.We are Honoring all who served in the military from start to today.Color guard will be present as will be a pastor from the local church.I know of people traveling from Montana,California and Seattle just to attend.Im bringing 6 boats of my own,would take more but space is limited in my truck.Bring a sail boat,anything that is rc and floats

7 years ago by chumbucket

Blog

Command Boat 90

Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats/combat-boat-90-h/specification/ Eventually I found some plans of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

White Star BB''570''

Started on an easy build. A White Start from Billing Boats. As usually the build instruction is very basic, all is more ore less shown on the main drawing. I have skipped the original 3mm shaft and added a 4mm from Robbe incl. a 3 blade Graupner racing prop as used in my Classic. I'll be using a 1100KV Brushless motor with a 2S LiPo. The basic of the hull is now done.

5 years ago by Tica

Event

Model s

Model boats

5 years ago by GeoffA

Event

2 day model

we're having a 2day model at the hooton park trust site ellemere port on may 18th &19th all model boat clubs welcome. this is our first show at our new venue

5 years ago by nutrunner

Forum

New Website Sneak Peak

Thought I'd share a sneak peak of the new website with everyone. I was hoping it'd be live by now, but things have required more development time than I first thought. So instead of giving you all a half-baked system, I've kept it in development a bit longer. In the screenshots: - New home page layout, forum middle-top, then build blogs, media gallery, events, clubs/lakes, new harbour boats, a new section for how-to articles and useful links. - How-to articles can be edited - Useful links can be posted on their own - Any member can follow any other member - Forum threads as well as blogs can be followed - New events section, with calendar and map - New places section, also with map - Cleaner layout for forum threads and blogs - Completely refreshed mobile app - New ranking system (some of you will change rank, but it'll remain fair to who has contributed the most) - Easier login, easier uploading of files, easier posting in general - Faster website, all database queries have been restructured to provide fast responses - New notifications area showing all updates to everything you're following There's a tonne more, I do think you'll all love the new site once it's live. Still don't want to promise dates, but when it's ready, it'll launch! Many thanks again to everyone who supports this website. Without this, we'd have sunk years ago! Stephen

5 years ago by fireboat

Response

Enclosing the controls.

Lovely work you are doing there still. I have just been on the VMW site and found the kit but for some reason they do not show prices for the boats. They also only show the Crash Tender and the Police Boat. But when you go to the plane kits they show prices for them. I don't understand it.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Planking

What type of boat/ship if its purely a sport boat you can cover the planking with tissue and dope then high build primer. Sand it down and paint with whatever takes your fancy. On the other hand if your wanting the planking to show ( scale type model) you need to seal the wood on the outside and inside with a decent varnish that should provide all sealing you need.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Place

2 day model

hi the ellesmere port model boat club are having a 2 day model on the 18th & 9th of may 2019 thought u might be interested , our club lake is in the hooton park trust site ellesmere port regards len

5 years ago by nutrunner

Place

OLD STAMPING GROUND?

the ellesmere port model boat club are having a 2 day model on the 18th & 19th of may 2019 thought u might be interested in attending

5 years ago by nutrunner

Forum

2 day model

hi email our chairman ministeve72@aol.com he will give u all the info hope this helps regards len

5 years ago by nutrunner

Forum

Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel

This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with, battery, radio gear etc required. ( I also note there is no servo for the rudder ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).

5 years ago by Davecounty

Forum

2 day model

How do I go about to put some rc trucks in your show As I have three trucks one coach and five nice trailers All in 1:14 scale. can you please let me know . Thanks.

5 years ago by scooterman

Forum

Billing’s Boat J-502-Progress

Small boats have less access below the deck. I might use a flat battery pack instead of the quad shown here. The model tested well in the laundry tub under power. Much left to do yet, glad the electronics work. A mini rudder servo is being added.

5 years ago by Ronald

Directory

(Other) Lady Ayla

I decided to build an open steam-boat to have the boiler and piston valve engine on show, all that polished copper and brass should be on show and not hidden away, this hull is clinker-built to my own design. (Motor: Maxwell Hemmings Caton) (ESC: servo controlled) (9/10)

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

What scale

Do a search and see if you can find the length oh the original boat was. Then I can show you the math. Example: 90' boat / 45" model 45 divided by 90 equals .5 or 1/2" So 1/2" = 1'-0" or 1/24th scale You get scale ... 12" divided by 1/2" equals 24 Good luck, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Blog

Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas?

To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified. Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I wanted to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me. Looking at potential scales and finished sizes. * 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64" * 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75" * 3/8" equals 8" x 32" I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull. Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections. Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats. Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Place

Spring

hi we are now at the Hooton park trust site in ellesmere port and we arre having a model on the 18th & 19th of may 2019 any more info just msg me

5 years ago by nutrunner

Place

model

we now have the dates for our 2 day model at the HOOTON PARK TRUST ellesmere port they are 18th & 19th of May 2019 all model boat clubs welcome

5 years ago by nutrunner

Response

Davits and falls

Hi Doug, Happy New Year. Boats all done and lashed down. Dreadnought had multiple aerials slung between the masts. As far as I can make out they were connected onwards to a fitting just about at deck level right at the stern and also I think below the forward jack stay. I would have expected there to be connections down to the bridge or the housing forward of the after funnel. None of the photos I have are clear enough to show all the rigging, so some extent I am going to have to guess. She must have had signal halyards from presumably the main yard, but again where did they come down to. The bridge does not have much open space around the main house, so they must have come down to the upper bridge to presumably a rack? Any ideas? I have fitted canvas dodgers around the bridge, but am not too happy with them. At this scale very difficult. We have good shipbuilding weather, -12c at midday today. They are ice fishing on our lake. Take care.

5 years ago by Gdaynorm

Forum

The BIG St.Albans Model Show

Hello hmsneuralgia Welcome to the forum. Even close family members wouldn't recognise me 🕵 Neither do I when I look in the mirror sometimes....and some old fella looks back at me. PS. St.AlbansMES do far more than just model boats as you will find out at the show.

5 years ago by robbob

Event

Bournville Illuminated Regatta

Bournville MBC Invite all RC model boaters to show off their models lights, if it floats and has lights on it we want to see it. Free to enter Light Refreshments Free Parking Disabled Access Contact Rob Fowler 07714517445

5 years ago by Aquaflite

Forum

The dates have come out wrong despite adding them correctly They should be 10th - 12th May 2019

5 years ago by mturpin013

Event

http://www.thedoncastershow.com

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

LONDON MODEL ENGINEERING EXHIBITION

A good show and as the title suggested it was for model engineers rather than model boat builders, however this suited me and I was pleased to see Robbobs Crash Tender and his latest police boat, both of immaculate quality. If anybody wants a more model focussed show then try Doncaster

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

Thanks for your reply. I am more of a speed freak. I love the Vosper /MTB's style hulls as you can really push them to there limits, as I can also with the deep V huntsman style hulls. My Proboat Miss Geico catamaran I can run flat out even on turns. But am unsure about fitting an out runner, I have scaled down the Crash Tender to 28" and have just put in a small outrunner but very apprehensive of running her. This is because i'm unsure of overheating and catching fire. Silly rally as she is a fireboat. But as you have one in your Crash Tender with no problems, then I will finish her off and give her a run. Thanks for your help. I am watching this build as eagerly as I did your wonderful Crash Tender. I cannot wait to see the en result and some video of her on water. I'm sad I wasn't able to get along to the show this weekend.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Blog

Build

The heating elements in the hairdryer had two different wire gauges as elements. I removed the lighter gauge thinking they would probably draw less current. I am attempting to use 6 volts as that is what my boat is. 1. First Photo: Took a length of element and stretched it out as shown, started with a longer piece about 8". if you are at 12v probably longer. Use some alligator clip jumpers and attached to one end, ran it to negative terminal of my 6v SLA. Took another jumper and attached to a point on the wire, say about 7". JUST TOUCH the other end to the battery positive to see if it glowed, it did not. So just moved about 3/8" at a time till it glowed - See Photo. CAUTION, make certain you have a nonflammable surface to work on, I used a tile scrap. IT GETS HOT FAST AND WILL BURN, DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW. That's why I just touch the terminal till it glows then stop, let it cool for a while. 2. Cut element to length, than take your 16 gauge wire and the crimp tube shown in earlier post. insert both into the tube and crimp it. I used a side cutter and carefully just squeezed enough. Make sure that the element will not pull out. Do the other end. Because I am using only 6 volts, I had flattened out the wire to give me more wraps on the wick. See photo and note. 3. in the lid of the box, I located the fan at one end, the exhaust stack at the other. Drilled a hole matching the fan opening and secured with two screws, drill small pilot holes so as not to crack the plastic. Drill hole to match brass tube OD, tube is about 1" long or so. Super glued brass tube in place. Excuse the sloppy copper sheet work on the inside of the lid, it was an experiment at the time. I added this a a bit of a heat sheild as the wick and element would sit below this. 4. Next photos show the interior of the box, not the best photos of the process as this was already built.... The mint tin set inside the plastic box was an idea to do two things; first isolate the heating element from the plastic,and two, provide a smaller vessel for the fluid. You may want to just use a metal container instead of the plastic box, again I was just using what I had on hand. The wick is laying in the tin with the element propped up at on end to keep it out of the fluid. Photo shown does not show much fluid in place. This needs some work, but worked for this test. Experiment, just be sure that the lower portion of the wick is in the fluid and the element wire wrap is above the fluid level. For the test, I used some mineral oil and a bit of glycerin, smoked very well. it's late so I will run it and photograph tomorrow. Cheers, Joe (Excuse the Imperial rather than metric)

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

As far as I can remember it was from them at the show. I think they were on one of the club stands with a few boats showing the wording on the side of model boats Families Need Fathers. I will try emailing the VMW website tomorrow. Thanks for you input.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

Hi Dave. The boat won't be finished in time for the show but it will be there anyway. The kit is made by Vintage Model Works not VMB See here: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 Go right to the bottom of the page. They've not got around to doing a full description yet....I expect soon though. Give Mike Cummings a call for more details. Rob.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Can't stop adding stuff

Well, when I started this build I said it was just going to be a quick, easy build.....but I can't stop getting more ideas and adding on. Lights, now exhaust smoke! Could not resist taking time last night to try my hand at a homemade smoker. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to build one and it works great. Then today I decided rather then put it inside the hull I would put it topside for easy access and to keep an eye on it....fires don't do well on boats. Mounted as shown, still in progress but I made an enclosure to cover it. Will fashion a new stack out of the white tube in the last photo. Now what else can I add...... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Model

The RNLI at Scarborough are holding a Model at the Lifeboat Station on 27 April from 11am to 4pm. Any one willing to show their boats should contact Kay Jackson at the Boat House.

5 years ago by RobbieMcKennan

Response

Fitting the rubbing strakes.

Hi All. I'm frantically trying to get the boat to a reasonable state of completion for showing at the London Model Engineer Exhibition next weekend. I've finished painting the hull, just need to apply the white water line and lacquer the hull with a satin finish. The pictures (taken today) show the current state so there's still a lot of detail to add to the decks and cabin. It will be definitely be displayed as 'work in progress'. Robbob.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Model .

Great news looking forward to it. cheers

5 years ago by dragon

Forum

Model .

Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club are having a Model on the 18th. and 19th. May 2019 at Hooton Park Trust, an old RAF airfield adjacent to the Vauxhall factory in Ellesmere Port. There will be Traders, Model Boat Clubs and RC truckers there. Opening times are 10 am to 4 pm on the Saturday and 10 am to 3pm on the Sunday. There is a pool for sailing. We have a Facebook page with photos.👍

5 years ago by epmbcmember

Forum

Model .

I'd love to see what must be some interesting changes to the old Hooton Park. I was a works security policeman there '65/69 and the area around the old mansion house was a bit wild and there was no pond there then. There were two Hangars left from the days 610 squadron had the place.They were used as the service station for VM's transport fleet. I wonder if they are still there>Also the underground air raid shelters.👍👍 There's a legend of the cursed pillars attched to the site too.👍

5 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Rx-tx confusion

Lordgord, I understand the confusion as there is almost too much infor nation on the web, much of it is mis-leading. I have been using this technology for 12 years now and have owned and used at least 8 Spektrum receivers. Here's my take: 1. You need a DSM2 or DSMX Transmitter, that simple. 2. My first photo shows a Spektrum AR7000 RX in my tugboat. it's a nice RX, IS 7 channel with an addition satellite received. it's overkill for a boat that just needs a couple of channels and doesn't fall to earth in a failure. Originally purchased for an RC Airplane, it's pricey at $90 to $100 USD. OUCH. 3. Ti try the less expensive RX's available no, first I tried OrangeRX and bought 3, none of which ever worked, a problem with China's lack of quality control. 4. Recently p, I needed two more RXs for boat builds and read that LemonRX was doing pretty good. Last two photos are of the Lemon, model LM0034. They work great and bind very easy, best of all they are $16 USD ! www.lemon-rx.com 5. One caveat with the lemon, they come just as shown in photo....no documentation. You need to look up on the internet which port is which and how to bind. Took me about 10 minute, bu is something to consider if this is your first hookup. Knowing which set of prongs go to what channel is critical. Personally, in the future, I am going to buy more Lemons... Hope this helps, Ask any question that you may have, we are all hear to help each other. Cheers, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Model .

Looking forward to it. I am coming up with the caravan, staying at Oakwood Farm Touring Park, and bringing 2, maybe 3 lifeboats with me to sail. it's in the diary, can't wait. Cheers, Dave W 😊

5 years ago by rolfman2000

Forum

Mersey Mammoth / Lara 1

Dave Morris is a member of the Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club and yes I think the model was at one of the shows there.

5 years ago by epmbcmember

Forum

internet sales

Totally agree with all points mentioned👍, another way is to make a note of the things you need, now and in the future i.e. glue, fittings,paint etc, and then visit the model s advertised around the UK, some are close, others not, for me I like Doncaster show, Haydock and Blackpool, going to shows allows you to choose from various traders and cherry pick the bits you want, it works for me along with the internet for items wanted NOW! cheers Peter😊

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Blog

Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC

The HobbyKing ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water circuit as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last ‘photo shows the location of the ESC, main battery fuse and receiver. The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Day Two Springer

Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Blog

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay

Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

6 years ago by teejay

Response

Internal wiring & bottom skins

Hi Rob, I'm really pleased to see construction detail, I suppose in preference to a finished boat, you may ask why? well looking at your pictures, the last two in particular they show the precision of your woodworking skills with a distinct absence of any filler, really nice. Looking at the first picture (top view) is there any reason why the battery and ECS can't go in front and behind the motor addressing the issue of short wiring runs (not that I have a clue about wiring and electronics) PS. however it looks like its too late as some wiring is already installed and by now the skins are probably on now Keep up the good work

5 years ago by mturpin013

Media

Searcher (Nimbus2)

"Searcher" was a Graham Goodchild design offered as a free plan in "Model Boats" in December 1981. Here is my version , many years in the building and finally nearing completion. Access to the hull on the original design was via a hatch above the cockpit - I had no faith in my ability to make it water tight so went for removable grp. hatches. The model is activated by a reed switch just in front of the rear hatch, which saves me the hassle of doing/undoing all the nuts (this had not been fitted when I took the first picture). The rear hatch gives me easier access to the drive coupling. The name "Nimbus2" is in honour of one of Dan Dare's spaceships in the Eagle comic. The third picture shows the ship in its final state with added 'enhancements' and working lights.

5 years ago by rpbidgood

Forum

Nordea research

Hi All I am buying a boat the vender calls the Nordea Research I have looked on line for the boat but have not found a reference for it. Has any one heard of this boat .I don't have a picture to show yet as the boat is on it's way to me. Any help please. Rick

6 years ago by Newby7

Media

Endeavour Model near Paris

This are photos of the biggest and very well made model of the Endeavour, a sailboat from the beginning of the 20th century. the First photo is of the gentleman that build this fantastic model! I was allowed to publish photos you can see here. I myself feel obliged to stand-out and show the gentleman responsible for this work of art!

5 years ago by Hellmut1956

Media

Carina

Trying to learn to use this forum properly I am publishing a video that shows an experiment I did to find out how fast the stepper motor could turn. I am using in my model of the sailboat Carina 2 stepper motors like the one shown in the video to work as a winch to control the position of the sails in a system solution where I am realizing this my own way to implement the sheets as shown on the original sailboat Endeavour. This requires my sheet control system to control the length of the sheet of the mainsail i.e. over a range of 8.3 meters. This requires the drum which is turned by the stepper motor to make 21 full turns. Details will be published in my report from scratch of building my Carina.

5 years ago by Hellmut1956

Forum

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)

Hi Sakibian, Why can't you use couplings from Cornwall Model Boats! https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Universal-Joint---Red-MA5000.html#SID=737 Maybe you can take a picture of your project to show us. What you are working on! I think the shaft should be close to the motor. Or the rubber hose will tear! Try looking for plastic tubing. Of the diameter you need! Or harder rubber tubing.... Regards, Ed

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Mersey Mammoth / Lara 1

A ha! I have just received from a friend a scan of a crumpled clipping from some magazine. It would seem it was taken at a in Ellesmere Port. I have googled but although shown are models none show the crane. What year, i have no idea. According to the text the model was that belonging to the late Eric Bell and which had been loaned to the show by a Dave Morris. Now to find out who is this Dave Morris and whether he still has the model. Toby

5 years ago by Toby