Response

Re: Model boat's push tug

Hi Jacko, That is a super little pusher Tug. I can already see it rescuing a model boat that is in destress. I like the use of the notice board pins for . Martin555.

5 years ago by Martin555

Blog

Hull &Deck

Now got motor mounted am using a five pole, speed will be fast enough and these motors run quieter better to hear sound generator. Have put in supports for extra fittings, also added some cross pieces just to stiffen up the hull. Cut out the holes in bulwarks for doors and added two extra at stern for . Base is also fitted for battery boxes with a piece of 50x6mm flat bar for ballast will add more at later stage if required. Drilled and fitted the intake for the cooling water. (Caused a bit of bother when checking out water line for ballast. Had the deck on with all the parts spread on deck didn’t need any ballast, till I found a lot of water ballast. Forgot to seal the input pipe.oh dear!!) Have fitted a piece of trunking along the side for the cables. Decks fitted out. Bow piece has 2 plastic tubes 5mm I/d fitted to hold leds for interior lighting with hole out at anchor winch for access to lights two blocks with inserts for fastening down winch. Wheelhouse also cut at bottom as going to be removable for access to lamps etc. White plastic on deck is for holding battery cover in place. Cutout for power on/off switch and a bit of extra support for forward mast also extra support on stern as that is for sound loudspeaker.

5 years ago by Elsrickle

Forum

3D Printing.

HI Martin - think a lot of modellers buy cowl vents, guns . , lifebelts , anchors etc , and for instance when building liners or similar large ships you find you have to make several hundred of the same item , easiest is to cast them from an original - so the 3d printer is just another tool - the same way the Laser is. What has made a real difference is the computer assisted drawing programs like Corel and Autocad . Without them the 3d printers & Lasers would be useless. In Corel and most others for instance you can zoom in to a drawing up to 45,000%. Gives you spurious accuracy as you could never actually cut that closely. Our laser for instance the cutline is about .3mm so when cutting small items you actually have to increase the size of the cutfile at narrow sections to allow for the width of the cut .

5 years ago by redpmg

Blog

The Kent windscreen, some small cabin & deck fittings.

Continuing to add detail to the model, the two white metal fairleads supplied with the kit were cleaned up with a file, sprayed with an etch primer and painted gunmetal grey to match the . They are fixed to the deck with a brass pin and a dab of epoxy and the pin head blended in with a spot of gunmetal grey. The Kent windscreen was made in a similar way as the one on my fireboat, the outer ring is a small slice of 20mm plastic conduit that was further reduced in thickness on my sanding plate and then painted black. The screen was shaped from some clear perspex and fixed into the ring with some canopy glue. I used a 2mm brass bolt as the centre fixing, the head of the bolt rounded to a dome in my makeshift lathe, this was also painted black. The whole assembly was then fixed into the port windscreen with the bolt, no additional glue is necessary. The front sliding window on the starboard side is held in the closed position by a small threaded brass ‘stud’ with a ring on the head while the window on the port side is intended to slide back to an open position so another stud was fitted further back. This is to allow access to an internal cabin feature that I’m developing😉. Two slightly larger studs were fixed to the front of the cabin on each side and a further two fixed into the deck near the rear of the cabin. All of these brass fittings came from RB Model in Poland. https://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=001 The last two pictures are of the model that's in the National Maritime Museum that I'm using as a reference for detailing.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Hints and Tips.

DECK FITTINGS Good one(s) DG👍 I used a similar idea for the on HMS Hotspur, made from short bits of alu tube with 2mm dome head screws through them. They also serve to hold the decks down. 2mm washer for the base. Visible on the extreme left of the pic. Plywood decks BTW were made from the recycled back of an old bureau 😊 Depthcharge throwers were made to John Lambert (RIP) plans from scraps of 0.3mm brass, 1mm copper wire and 5 and 8mm wood dowels. Very fiddly measuring the plans, scaling up and double triple checking the marking up of the thin brass bits. (Never mind the snipping!) But worth it I think. Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hints and Tips.

Fittings make a boat model, but it can sometimes be difficult to get them at the right scale. And if you can, some can be very expensive, especially if you need lots of them. Many can, however, be easily made out of household items and waste, especially if you are just going for 'eyeball scale' - that it, what looks fine on a boat on a pond at 6ft or so. Here are a couple of simple examples - and mushroom vents. A pair of nails pushed through brass tubes and soldered onto a brass sheet base will look indistinguishable from a commercial bollard, while the dimples on a pill container can be cut off carefully and mounted on a bit of dowel to make a mushroom vent. Use different sized nails/pills to match the size that you want...

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Re: !

True modelling at its best, super looking , I especially like the thread for strong mounting. Keep up the good work matey. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Response

Re: !

Look much better than the original . 👍

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Blog

!

The fittings supplied with the kit include some for the deck but I’m less than impressed with them and decided to make my own by adapting some brass handrail fittings intended for locomotives. As readers of my blogs will know, I don’t have a lathe but there’s a lot that can be achieved using a horizontal bench drill and files. The first job was to reduce the diameter of the base to fit inside a couple of steel washers that were superglued together and then to the reduced base to form a large flange for the bollard. This was then spun in the drill and files used to radius the edges and blend them into the base. Some brass rod was then used to form the cross piece of the bollard, some tape the same width of the ‘ball’ was used to protect the centre section and the outer end reduced to a taper with a file, finally the pieces were reduced to the correct length and the ends rounded off. The cross piece was then superglued into the bollard base and then all four were given a coat of etch primer and then two brushed coats of Tamiya gunmetal grey. There is another bollard on the foredeck and this is just a simple wooden post with a brass cross piece, it’s fixed through the deck into the underlying structure by a brass pin.

5 years ago by robbob