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    Forum
    Modified Figures.
    Doc Martin here again. The second leg required the same sort of treatment, this time to make it more bent so that it will reach the ladder rung. The upper part of the body is temporarily tacked in place so that I can work out the wedge size. A LITTLE TIP. When applying the filler it is best to go over the filler with a small
    brush
    with glue on it, this makes the filler more liquid and helps to conform to the contours of the folds and creases of the clothing. More drying time required now before I can continue with the operation. Before I continue I will have to give him a bit more anaesthetic as I don't want him to suffer any pain. Martin555.
    5 days ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Billing Boats St Canute Tug Kit
    No sweat Richard๐Ÿ‘ This site is full of us bin there dun that guys๐Ÿ˜‰ "l had a problem trying to plank the stern of the St Canute so l replaced planks with blocks of balsa" He he!๐Ÿ˜ I did exactly the same on the stern of the ancient Billing fish cutter, Gina 2, I am (slowly๐Ÿ™„) restoring and converting to RC. See pics, there's also a Build Blog on the site. After rough shaping of the block I sealed and hardened the balsa with Deluxe Materials EzeKote resin. Water based so no hardener, no pong and easy to clean the
    brush
    with warm water๐Ÿ˜Š Then used fine polyester filler, the green stuff in the pics, and a rubber sanding block for fine shaping. When done I applied EzeKote to the whole hull. Dried in half an hour outside in the sun. Then fine sanding 240/400 grade, then a coat of grey filler-primer. A little finishing filler on the blemishes which always show up at this stage ๐Ÿ˜  gentle sanding with 400/600 wet n dry then on with the white! Patience is the main ingredient though. Good luck and much success๐Ÿ‘, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: What colors to use?
    Hi E, There are three distributors in USA http://www.billingboats.com/articles/distributors-america.html Nearest ones to you are in NJ or NY. There's also one in CA. Only place in this list I know (knew๐Ÿ™„) is Las Condes, Santiago de Chile. Was often there in the nineties for meetings with MoD /Navy and our agent there.๐Ÿ˜‰ The Billing paints are small bottles and quite expensive, and you'll need an air-
    brush
    for the big bits!! I'd look for the nearest R-O or Tamiya spray can equivalent if I were you. The excellent conversion chart that Martin found can help you there ๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS the paint numbers are on page 16 of the Building Instructions. Seems they've stopped putting them up with BB numbers, now just in triangles!! See pic.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Rear Deck
    Peter, Thanks. The paint is
    brush
    applied Tamiya acrylic in Gunmetal Grey X10 applied over grey etch primer from a rattle can. Iโ€™m pleased with the effect. It is thin, goes on easily without obscuring detail and dries quickly. I have found that it needs frequent stirring otherwise you end up with a plain dark grey finish.
    2 months ago by Graham93
    Blog
    Just a bit more
    Had a little time to work today. I left work early today to pick up my upper dentures, which broke in half a few days ago as I munched on a pickle spear๐Ÿ˜  Iโ€™ve had bad gums since my late 20s, have had a full set of dentures for three years, the uppers are over ten. Anyway, I had them repaired, picked them up and went home. Only pain I felt was in my wallet....๐Ÿคฃ Soooo..I started detailing the mast. Went for the air
    brush
    first, but Iโ€™m still new to it, and the paint I was using came out a little wetter and runnier than I liked, so I Tamiya rattle canned the parts, let them dry and installed what I could before dinner. I have a few more to do then itโ€™s...wait for it....railings.๐Ÿ˜ฎ Cash
    2 months ago by Cashrc
    Response
    Re: More done
    Thanks Doug, I hope I can do her justice. Like you, I really like the Tamiya rattle cans, I was going to use my air
    brush
    but the Tamiya paints are working well right now. Have you ever tried the Tamiya acrylic for air
    brush
    ing? Iโ€™m thinking about giving that a go sometime. Cash
    2 months ago by Cashrc
    Blog
    Chine strakes and hull painting
    Following the initial trial, I fitted chine strakes. These were steamed, bent to shape and left to dry. The original hull painting (humbrol enamel) was rubbed down and the new strakes fitted with epoxy and brass pins. I hope they will hold on the old paint surface. The gunwale strakes were also replaced as these had suffered from some damage over the years. I also took the opportunity to replace the old cooling water outlet with something more to scale. Two exhaust ports were made using a couple of white metal portholes adapted with brass tubes which pass through the transom. The cooling water is fed out through both of these. I know this is not strictly accurate, as there should be a separate, smaller outlet for the engine cooling water, but I'm not looking to achieve 100% accuracy, just something that looks a lot more like scale than the original 45 year old model. I might revisit this at a later date. The hull was painted using rattle cans, first a grey etch primer, then the colours followed by the decals and finally a clear lacquer coat. The hull was left to dry for two weeks and then it was back onto the water. As this is my only boat, I'm trying to carry out the refit in a way that allows me to get onto the water as often as I can. The improvement in performance with the new chine strakes was remarkable. It now planes easily and turns quickly. With the diesel fitted it was reluctant to plane, and it could be difficult to turn which was due I think to the torque on the larger prop plus the missing strakes. What a difference hindsight (and this website!) makes. ๐Ÿ˜€ Another improvement was that the boat is now dry inside. It always used to fill the rear cockpit and the centre cabin with water but that is no longer the case. The two O-rings I added to the top and bottom of the rudder shaft may also have helped with this. Returning from this outing I was unhappy to find that the foam protectors on the boat stand had marked the lacquer finish. Despite having left it for two weeks, it was still soft enough to be marked. Not sure if you can see the damage in the photo. Another detail I will have to revisit later. I noticed that the motor was running a little warm so the opportunity was taken to replace the aluminium plate motor mount with one made from copper sheet with a copper tube silver soldered onto it. This has been plumbed into the ESC cooling water circuit and now keeps the motor reasonably cool. The deck was then masked and painted with a textured finish followed by
    brush
    applied humbrol enamel. I found a tin of grey enamel in the garage, which must date from the original build, and it was still useable!
    2 months ago by Graham93
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z8
    Re - Wonderful looking model, a real credit to you. Thanks Nerys, Should be up and running soon (soon as it stops blowing a gale and raining every day (spring just starting here) I have a similar problem re arthritis, thumbs have clapped out (due I think to dislocating both at the same time while unloading a big fridge off my mates truck years ago,- he had to hang me by my thumbs to pull them back out!) Had a carpal tunnel op, right index finger's buggered, no grip, and I spend most of my time picking stuff up off the floor. Just takes a lot longer to do things these days with a bit more pain. Be nice to be 20 again! Pic of Matchbox cars I used to modify in the 60s (side lettering was done with one bristle from a
    brush
    ) wouldn't even bother trying today!๐Ÿ˜‚ JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    ".....That motor is a puzzle, if its a dc motor why would it have 3
    brush
    es. I have only seen 2 or 4 on dc motors......" From the excellent Workshop Practice series No.16 - Electric Motors - Jim Cox: "...More modern types (of automobile wiper motors) are permanent magnet motors which use a three
    brush
    system. A pair of
    brush
    es in the normal position 180 deg apart is used for low-speed operation. One of the low speed
    brush
    es and a third
    brush
    set at about 120deg are used for the high-speed wipe. Because the
    brush
    at 120 deg only sees a fraction of the normal motor back EMF more current flows and the motor runs proportionately faster...."
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    Perhaps as was mentioned, the 3rd
    brush
    was for switching to another speed although if it is a generator of some type it might have been another voltage pickup (eg 6 or 12v perhaps?) Looks like it's either been driven or driven something with the pulley on the end? Going completely silly, how about an aux generator off a spitfire or similar!!??? JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-3
    Re Thanks to modern technology and the skills of the model makers. Thanks martin but it's now down to two pairs of glasses and a head magnifier, + arthritis setting in doesn't help with the fine work. Was looking at some matchbox toys I 'hot-rodded' when I was about 11 and I remember using 1 hair from an artists
    brush
    to write on them and detail them (and you could read it clearly!)- no hope of doing that these days,- hands aren't quite as steady. I've said it before "old age sucks". JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    Spare space might be for running in reverse Colin, (move a
    brush
    to the other side) or maybe for a different speed.? Maybe cancel thoughts on wiper motor, looks like a beast! Might have had drive belts on it at one stage (old converted sewing machine motor?) Industrial machine perhaps? JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    hi i have seen dc motors with 3
    brush
    es this was in a 2 speed motor ( ie old car wiper motor ) but with a modern speed controller the 3rd would not be required
    2 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    Ain't never not seed a beasty like that afore!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Good luck with the testing๐Ÿคž I have a suspicion that it might tend to get stuck somewhere, esp at slow speed, as one
    brush
    appears to be missing! Might need a sharp tweak to the shaft to get it started as well A Tweak Starter!๐Ÿ˜ Measure the current as well if you can! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Is there a Sea Commander breeding ground down at your lake!?
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-1
    They are so clean you would think they are not there! (and you'd be correct,) -see reply to Martin. Thanks for the tape info, I'll see if Hobby City has any and give it a try. I've usually just used a small
    brush
    for the boot topping (masked up) saves a lot of paperwork. When cutting masking tape strips I use a steel rule and a sheet of glass to cut on. Just had a look, and they have 6mm Tamiya tape for $6 (doesn't say what length ) might have to go for a drive. Car pic has jumped from Martins reply to yours for some reason ?! JB
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Chris Craft Cobra by Dumas
    Looking very good Jack๐Ÿ‘ "Just finished the planking and currently fitting the fin to the deck. " I trust that's a "dry fit" Jack. I would prefer to varnish the deck first. Saves a lot of masking if you use spray varnish, and makes sanding / flatting much easier without the fin in the way whether you spray or
    brush
    . (If this is "egg sucking" - my apologies๐Ÿ˜”) Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U
    Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your computer and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc. The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable. There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box. This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions) Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true) Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there. I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere. For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V
    brush
    ed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable
    brush
    es (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available) John B
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    GLUE FOR ABS
    I used acetone for internal reinforcing strips (ABS to ABS) or sticking an ABS bracket to the hull etc. You just use a small paint
    brush
    and run some acetone along the edge while clamping the part. You have to be careful on the outside as it will mark the ABS finish if you get a run. I'm assuming it's still the same material Graupner used to make hulls out of (I had a Commodore and still have an Optimist from the 70s). Try a drop on some scrap to see if it will melt the ABS. If it does, you can also make an ABS 'putty' from scrap material softened with acetone for smoothing a seam etc (sets fast though).
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    We have a product here Peter which is almost the same thing. A common brand is International Everdure which is a sealer and preservative used inside wooden boats. It is a very thin epoxy resin with anti mould properties which you mix 1:1 with the hardener. You can just make a batch and pour it into your hull and tip it around to get it in all the spaces ( hull needs to be reasonably sealed before doing this as it will find its' way out like water). You can work it for about 6 hrs on cold days and
    brush
    any spots you have missed with what goes to the bottom. The remainder settles to the bottom of the hull and makes the keel like a rock, (you can remove excess with a
    brush
    and paper towels if you don't like that idea. The beauty of this epoxy is that it finishes as smooth as a babys' bum and you can even coat the decks with it as well (did the deck of my ST and you would think it's varnish) Another brand we have is Norski which is the same sort of product. Reasonably expensive but magic stuff (smells strong for a few days then nothing, smooths out nicely too) John B
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    "Anyone know what Ezekote is made of?" Whatever it is Martin it's water based, has no pong so you can use it indoors without getting moaned at ๐Ÿ˜Š and you can wash out the
    brush
    es easily with warm water๐Ÿ‘ Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Repairs finished.
    After varnishing and rubbing back every day for the last 18 days. My launch is now ready to sail again. The varnish was applied with an excellent quality artist
    brush
    . And wet rubbed with 2000 grit wet and dry. All the minor blemishes in the deck planks were left as she is 57 years old and well used. I've just got to replace the missing fairlead and bow roller and get a replacement anchor. I'm working on an idea for a launching system that's usable almost anywhere based on aluminium scaffold poles as the track and a wheeled cradle that can have its angle adjustable to suit the water. I will put some sketches together for the appraisal of the world of model boats. Cheers Colin.
    4 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    3D Printing.
    I have not tried the vapor bath method with Dichloromethane yet, I applied it with a small
    brush
    . I will have to find the boiling point, if similar to acetone should work. Just checked the oracle. BP is 39.7 degrees so should vaporise the same. I will have a go and report back....
    4 months ago by Nickthesteam
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build L
    Bit more progress, bit slow as I had to have a change and 3/4 finish some 1/2 finished jobs on the house). I've fitted the toe rails, glued on the cabin roofs, made the floors, (both 2pc so as to be easy to remove to get at the bilges,) made the shaft support blocks, milled out the shaft slots and slotted the hull to match, ( still have to epoxy blocks in when happy with shaft angles ), made the motor mount plate and trimmed the inside edge excess off the deck. Still have to make the rear cockpit floor and rear cabin /door panel but I'll wait till I've fitted the motors, as I have to see where the engine boxes end up, (they will probably end up being in the correct place with the motors partly inside the cabin but if I'm clever enough it won't be noticed. The odd pic out is of some of the tools we use to make our models and don't even think about. I know most of us have our special home made 'tools' for different little jobs (ie sandpaper glued to flat or shaped blocks etc) but I thought for anyone just starting, it might give them an idea of what they could need to make it easier to build a model. Obviously there are fillers, paints,
    brush
    es, planes, drills etc (couldn't fit my mill on the table, weighs about 400lbs) and a number of other items for doing the larger bits. Mostly it's some of the simple smaller tools which are the handiest (assortment of modelling knives, small hacksaw, cutting board, pencils and sanding blocks/paper. If you are fortunate enough to have a lathe you will obviously save a lot of money on scale fittings, shafts etc, but most people don't have one and have to come up with other methods or $$.
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    "...I suppose depending on the cutting head you will be able to cut thin sheet plastic?...." The basic machine is just a precise 3-D positioning device. You then tie anything you want onto the end, depending on the job you want to do. A router or a laser will cut wood, a milling bit will cut metal, a knife will cut vinyl or paper. A plastic extrusion head will let you build up plastic shapes, a pen would let you write letters, and I suppose a paint
    brush
    would let you create watercolours... For every material there is a workholding requirement, and a set-up and run optimisation process to undertake, but the principle is simple.
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: Steampunk Pike.
    As you wish Red. But if you're serious about building Memo's Nautilus you ain't gonna find more info and advice than on that disc. And that straight from the Disney horse's mouth. Confusing is that sometimes they mention DVD and sometimes CD!? Happy trawling the Net, I did too, but didn't find a more comprehensive collection of info and data than that. Lots of vague plans, but then what? Material: "Wood seems an odd material to make a submarine from - so where do you go from there..........." My U25 hull is made from four 3cm planks of wood. Lots of carving and checking with templates and swearing. Then wood sealer, more sanding ๐Ÿค” primer, three coats of resin based RAL 7035 paint.
    brush
    quick or your
    brush
    will stick to the hull๐Ÿ˜ญ Later spraying upper and lower hull with appropriate Revell enamels, light grey and mid/dark grey respectively. No ingress of water or other damage incurred over the last 25 or so years.๐Ÿ˜Š Advantage is better thermal insulation from the cold water surrounding the hull than with thin plastic. "plastic does not like the "African" sun much"! For several days now we have had temperatures of 35 to 40ยฐC, new record for Germany in June was set yesterdayโ˜€๏ธ. Expected to climb further to a new record peak on Sunday!๐Ÿ˜Ž I note that today, and the foreseeable/forecast-able future Cape has temperatures of around 13 to 15ยฐC. I remember being in Jo'burg/Pretoria some years ago towards the end of November. We went to the Zoo with temperature around 35ยฐC and while refreshing ourselves sitting outside the cafe there were astounded to to witness the arrival of a class of young school kids and a Father Christmas wearing the full red arctic outfit with hat and beard. I started melting just looking at him ๐Ÿ˜‚ During my time in Cape Town and Simonstown, also shortly before Christmas, the temperatures were a very comfortable 25 to 30ยฐC. Where are you? Of course various plastics deform at various temperatures, so 'Taste and Try Before You Buy'. (With thanks to Savoy Brown - see attached Utube clip๐Ÿ˜‰) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNyzrOM5RR4 Check the specs of the type of plastic you are considering buying for your build. Some are specially developed I believe for minimal deformation at higher temperatures. BTW: Joburgsailor seems to do all right with the materials he uses under the African sun๐Ÿ‘ See his blogs and post on this site about his magnificent MEKO frigate. (A ship class I also worked on for other countries!) Whatever floats your boat Red ๐Ÿ˜Š have fun doing it, that's what it's all really about! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW; wish we had your grocery prices here๐Ÿค” 85US$ = about โ‚ฌ75. Which is around 20 or 15% of my monthly grocery bill of around โ‚ฌ400-500!
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Cabin Grab Handles.
    There are a couple of grab handles on the front and rear of the cabin roof that I thought Iโ€™d like to add to my model. Making them from wood seemed rather difficult so I made them from some plasticard rod that I heated and bent over a former to the right size and shape. They were then rubbed down with an abrasive to roughen the surface so that the wood stain that Iโ€™ve used elsewhere would stick properly and two coats of Teak stain did the trick. Superglueing them directly to the cabin would not be a very firm fixing so I drilled some 2.5m holes correctly spaced so that the handles could be pushed into place and I used some canopy glue as a fixing so that any excess glue could be wiped away easily. When the glue had set I gave the handles a final coat of stain using a very fine
    brush
    , a steady hand and an old pair of eyes ๐Ÿค“. Just the spray deflector on the roof to fit now.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Aerokits 46'' twin screw
    brush
    less conversion
    Today I had a run with the new batteries, and It was a great success. I wasn't after more speed, although I couldn't help myself seeing how fast It would go, but wanted more efficiency, which didn't happen as I went too fast, and better run time. When you have a big lake all to yourself on a sunny bank holiday morning, you just got to open It up. Data logging was on board, so with 5 cells per motor, almost 20 mins going fast most of the time, I recorded 25.3mph which Is stupid speed for this boat as It Is so heavy now and a whopping 939watts, 51.82 amps, which are maximum spikes. On a smaller lake It would last a lot longer, but I like speed! ๐Ÿ˜€
    6 years ago by pmdevlin
    Blog
    Brass Cabin Trim.
    A rather nice feature on the NMM model are some brass trims on the rear pillars of the cabin and I found a โ€˜photo of one of the real boats that clearly shows the trims so I decided to add these to my model too. The brass sheet I used for this is only 0.3mm thick and can be fairly easily be cut by scoring heavily with a strong knife blade and then snapping. The cut edges show no sign of deformation and are easily smoothed and finished with a file. The strips are about 6mm wide and each strip was trimmed to fit the upper part of the cabin pillars and the lower curved portion formed by careful bending over a suitably sized former. They are held in place with a few spots of superglue and after a final cleaning with fine emery paper were
    brush
    painted with a couple of coats of clear lacquer.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, SMALL SANDER. For those small delicate bits that need sanding I use a cheap electric tooth
    brush
    . just cut off the bristles with a sharp scalpel then glue on a small piece of sand paper. When you need to change the sand paper just slice it off and glue on another piece. Martin.
    5 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, I don't know if this is widely known but this little tip is for paint. How many guys that use enamel paint also purchase enamel thinners. I have found that is an expensive way of thinning your enamel paint. So I just use ordinary white spirit is perfect for the job, I use it in my air
    brush
    and have sprayed many models with it.(gloss or mat paint) And also use it for cleaning up after. Very cheap and the one chemical for many porpoises. Martin.
    6 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Looks really good on the water, scale waves as well. The detail is extremely good, that's the sort of look I hope to get on my tug Valiant, but she's a bit smaller at 41 inches. Thanks for the tip on the
    brush
    . Cheers Colin. ๐Ÿ‘
    6 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hello All from the colony of Oz. For my Cervia 56inch steam tug , I needed a push broom or two of the type used to push ahead typically used in roadworks. I saved up my old tooth
    brush
    es and you the stem. A bit of corner rounding followed by a wooden bamboo stick pushed into a drilled hole at the plastic bed which holds the bristles at a suitable ANGLE . Then glued with zap and a bit of crappy pain t to the handle and the
    brush
    head and a bit of crud to the bristles. It was as good as my heavy duty broom /
    brush
    that I use when sweeping up the concrete paths after savage gardening by by spouse who tolerates and still says, "I remember you were only going to have one boat , the Aerobats Crash Boat I built some 30 plus years ago and has its third I/C motor after wearing the others out! Lyle.
    6 months ago by Lyle
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    CLEAN FINISH ON PLASTIC Hi Guys Another little tip this is mainly for the beginner to plastic kit model making. After sanding holes or small parts it tends to leave small wispy bits I have found that if you use a small paint
    brush
    and liquid plastic glue and
    brush
    over the area it cleans it up and leaves a nice Finnish. As you may of gathered I also tinkering with plastic kits. I also use this when working with plastic card. The photos are just for demonstration,But you can see the results on the railings on my Gato. Martin.
    6 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Glue
    Best suggestion i Can give is a good industrial barrier cream. Like Rosalex but more modern.Better for Elf'n safety too.Use cocktail sticks or splints of wood to apply small amounts of glue etc. You can't be that bad if you're on the 3rd build though.We all suffer for our hobby like that to some extent . I well remember biting balsa and plastic cement off my fingers. Barring solvents ( Chloroform ,Ether , Acetone,Celly thinners etc) still the best way to shift it. Also use disposable tweezers to handle small parts or steel ones you can scrape or burn off Good luck John.๐Ÿ˜› P S I found a liquid called Plastic Magic. It is applied to the closed( close fitting )joint with the tip of a fine
    brush
    . Just a drop. It shoots along the joint by capillary action. Gravity helps too.๐Ÿค”. I've yet to find a plastic it won't glue/join.brilliant stuff. regards holding things steady to dry many things can be used. Pins,bulldog ,clips,clothes pegs, steel blocks,Lego type blocks
    6 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Glue
    Hi, For the plastic card I use humbrol liquid poly (see photo)and applied with a small paint
    brush
    . And I also use super glue and if I apply it to small areas after it has been painted I use a thin piece if electrical wire, (sometimes just one strand)and for a larger area I use a cocktail stick. For two part epoxy I use different sizes of plastic card depending on how much I use. I hope this helps.
    6 months ago by Martin555
    Blog
    The Well Deck side panels & Boat Hooks.
    As a police boat would need to have some boat hooks for retrieving flotsam and various โ€˜thingsโ€™ ๐Ÿ˜ from the river I adapted some of the same ready-made ones that I had used previously on my fire boat, they are available on eBay from โ€˜Battlecraftsโ€™. They come in a set of three with various hook ends and are nicely made from hardwood dowel with white metal end fittings. I started by making up two paper templates, one for each side of the boat and drew out a layout of the wooden frame parts that make up the detail panels that will hold the boat hooks. These were made mostly from obeche strip but with the topmost wide strip made from 1.5mm ply. The parts were laid on the template and a spot of superglue used to fix the pieces together. After a couple of coats of Teak stain they were epoxied to the side walls. The boat hooks were trimmed to length and a brass loop end made for each and then both were finished with pine stain and the white metal ends
    brush
    painted with gunmetal grey. Some thin brass sheet was cut and formed into retaining hooks with a threaded rivet to secure them to the deck sides. The finished result fills a bare area on the well deck walls quite effectively.๐Ÿ˜
    7 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Tug towing
    The Decaperm 6v geared is 1:2.75. And very high torque, so it ought to swing a pretty big prop. Measure the prop diameter when you get home as well, also the number of blades. Have you considered experimenting with different propellers? That can radically change a boat's performance with little effort. Props can be expensive, but you can buy a few cheap ones, or borrow some from a club colleague for experiment. Either increase the diameter or the pitch (or both!) if possible, or go for a 4-bladed one rather than 3-bladed.... I don't know about a Kv/torque relationship - the key distinction is inrunner (high speed/low torque) vs outrunner (high torque/lower speed). Although that is a very general statement, and almost certainly untrue for some motors. KV is a measure of how many revs per volt you can expect. So an 800KV would give you 4800 revs at 6v - not a lot, though that depends on the prop, of course. I normally go for around 1000Kv, and run at 7.2v. Voltage is important for a
    brush
    ed motor - the
    brush
    gear is designed for a particular voltage and will wear badly with increased volts.
    brush
    less do not have this problem, and can run on a wide variety of voltages. Running at 24v is quite possible... The ESC you want for a
    brush
    less is simply one that can handle the maximum current your motor will draw - which you can either look up or measure with a Watt Meter. The key concern I usually have with
    brush
    less motors is thermal. They are normally designed for aircraft use, where they will get lots of air cooling, and we are putting them in sealed enclosures. Unless you want to water cool, I would suggest running a
    brush
    less well down below maximum power, to keep the temperature down. So overspec it, or run with a lower than maximum voltage...
    7 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    The Radio Aerial
    Another cabin roof fitting is the radio aerial, this also needs to be detachable for transport and storage. For the base I cut and formed a disc from some brass bar and โ€˜turnedโ€™ it to the desired size and profile in my makeshift 'lathe' (a Black & Decker horizontal drill stand) and then the centre hole was enlarged to take a 4mm brass tube which was silver soldered into the base. The piece was then cleaned up with some abrasive paper and wire wool. A short piece of 3mm brass rod was then threaded and soft soldered into the bottom of the base to form the fixing stud. For the aerial rod I used a short piece of 3mm tube and some 2mm brass rod, the tube fits inside the base tube and the rod in the centre, and this was soft soldered together into the base. Finally a piece of 3mm tube was soldered to the end of the rod and turned to shape it into a ball. The rod was also given a slight taper with files and abrasives. The whole piece was sprayed with grey etch primer and when dry the base was
    brush
    painted with some black acrylic and finally some clear satin lacquer finishes off the part. ๐Ÿ˜€ The aerial fixes to the roof through a white plasticard base with a 3mm wing nut.
    7 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    White Star BB''570''
    Started on an easy build. A White Start from Billing Boats. As usually the build instruction is very basic, all is more ore less shown on the main drawing. I have skipped the original 3mm shaft and added a 4mm from Robbe incl. a 3 blade Graupner racing prop as used in my Classic. I'll be using a 1100KV
    brush
    less motor with a 2S LiPo. The basic of the hull is now done.
    10 months ago by Tica
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    Thank you. In the end I used 'Lifecolor' acrylic paints, which although come in 22ml tinlets, go an awfully long way. You can also get a 'spray' like finish using a
    brush
    . I would highly recommend the brand.
    8 months ago by cormorant
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    Great work on the hull Stuart. I built the same kit last year and really enjoyed the project, the Huntsman is an awesome looking craft too and super light weight. in mine Iโ€™ve experimented with a few different
    brush
    ed motors, trying to get scale speed versus โ€œplay timeโ€ balance. I landed on a 35 turn which at half speed is pretty good for scale speed and at full noise it really gets up and moves for a bit of fun. The last few runs Iโ€™ve seen up to 25-30 mins from a 7.2v Ni-Mh pack which has been great. Look forward to seeing your progress, all the best and enjoy the build.
    8 months ago by ChrisB
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Could someone advise me on a suitable
    brush
    ed motor for the Anteo tug 800 mm length. Also how do you reverse motor,special esc or reversing switch ? Thanks Dick
    1 year ago by Dick
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    You can power a
    brush
    less from lead acid batteries electric is electric. Lipo batteries are often used because of their ability to provide power with a relatively low weight and can dump LOTS of amps. As Colin pointed out 2 6volt batteries in parallel will provide 6 volts and cannot be tapped for 12v to obtain 12v the batteries need to be in series and 6 volts can be tapped off but will only provide the energy from one of the two batteries.
    8 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about
    brush
    less motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
    8 months ago by Dick
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    if your intending to use a car ESC have a good read before you buy some of them require you to select reverse then go back to neutral before selecting reverse again to actually reverse the motor. The first reverse acts as a brake. Just to satisfy my curiosity why did you want
    brush
    ed rather than
    brush
    less? There are a lot of
    brush
    less motors used in the model car sport and generally have advantages over
    brush
    ed motors.
    8 months ago by Haverlock
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    Nice hard work, well done i now usually get a glass fibre hull if i can. Ive run mine with Irvine 40, and 2 different
    brush
    less, 2075 kva and 1150 motors and all performed well 3 or 4 cell lipos, go for the biggest capacity 5200`s as the weight is no problem and double your run time. Pic shows latest motor i think its 2900 kva ill try it out soon. I seem to use the Huntsman then take the motors out for other projects
    8 months ago by vortex
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    No. The motor size is not in the instructions, but from a previous forum post I've been recommended a 28xx
    brush
    less 1100Kv with a 11.1V 2200Mah LiPo battery. Yes. I have that edition and following the editorial. it is a more detailed version of the instructions as both written by Dave Milbourne. ๐Ÿ‘
    8 months ago by StuartE
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both
    brush
    less ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to โ€œturnโ€. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre
    brush
    ed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.
    8 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Hi justkiddin I live in Hobart, so not to far away from you mate. My mate and I both have Sea Hornets, his has a funny cabin on it also. Mine is build by the original plans.
    brush
    less 28mm 1900kv, 45Amp ESC on 3S with a 32mm prop. Was GPS at Lauderdale canal at 45KPH. WE sail on a Saturday morning from 9 to 12, so if you are down this way call in. Canabus
    8 months ago by canabus
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Robbob, This was my first venture into using
    brush
    less motors so I was a bit uncertain on cooling. I made the fans from aluminium and bolted them on at the existing 2mm bolt locations. Someone told me they wouldn't rev fast enough but I think every bit helps. I also have water cooling at the front plate of the motors. The end result is that the motors never get warm, even after an hour of sailing around the lake at good speed.
    8 months ago by reilly4


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