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    Blog
    Aerokits 46'' twin screw
    brush
    less conversion
    Today I had a run with the new batteries, and It was a great success. I wasn't after more speed, although I couldn't help myself seeing how fast It would go, but wanted more efficiency, which didn't happen as I went too fast, and better run time. When you have a big lake all to yourself on a sunny bank holiday morning, you just got to open It up. Data logging was on board, so with 5 cells per motor, almost 20 mins going fast most of the time, I recorded 25.3mph which Is stupid speed for this boat as It Is so heavy now and a whopping 939watts, 51.82 amps, which are maximum spikes. On a smaller lake It would last a lot longer, but I like speed! πŸ˜€
    5 years ago by pmdevlin
    Blog
    Brass Cabin Trim.
    A rather nice feature on the NMM model are some brass trims on the rear pillars of the cabin and I found a β€˜photo of one of the real boats that clearly shows the trims so I decided to add these to my model too. The brass sheet I used for this is only 0.3mm thick and can be fairly easily be cut by scoring heavily with a strong knife blade and then snapping. The cut edges show no sign of deformation and are easily smoothed and finished with a file. The strips are about 6mm wide and each strip was trimmed to fit the upper part of the cabin pillars and the lower curved portion formed by careful bending over a suitably sized former. They are held in place with a few spots of superglue and after a final cleaning with fine emery paper were
    brush
    painted with a couple of coats of clear lacquer.
    3 days ago by robbob
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, SMALL SANDER. For those small delicate bits that need sanding I use a cheap electric tooth
    brush
    . just cut off the bristles with a sharp scalpel then glue on a small piece of sand paper. When you need to change the sand paper just slice it off and glue on another piece. Martin.
    16 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, I don't know if this is widely known but this little tip is for paint. How many guys that use enamel paint also purchase enamel thinners. I have found that is an expensive way of thinning your enamel paint. So I just use ordinary white spirit is perfect for the job, I use it in my air
    brush
    and have sprayed many models with it.(gloss or mat paint) And also use it for cleaning up after. Very cheap and the one chemical for many porpoises. Martin.
    22 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Looks really good on the water, scale waves as well. The detail is extremely good, that's the sort of look I hope to get on my tug Valiant, but she's a bit smaller at 41 inches. Thanks for the tip on the
    brush
    . Cheers Colin. πŸ‘
    25 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hello All from the colony of Oz. For my Cervia 56inch steam tug , I needed a push broom or two of the type used to push ahead typically used in roadworks. I saved up my old tooth
    brush
    es and you the stem. A bit of corner rounding followed by a wooden bamboo stick pushed into a drilled hole at the plastic bed which holds the bristles at a suitable ANGLE . Then glued with zap and a bit of crappy pain t to the handle and the
    brush
    head and a bit of crud to the bristles. It was as good as my heavy duty broom /
    brush
    that I use when sweeping up the concrete paths after savage gardening by by spouse who tolerates and still says, "I remember you were only going to have one boat , the Aerobats Crash Boat I built some 30 plus years ago and has its third I/C motor after wearing the others out! Lyle.
    25 days ago by Lyle
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    CLEAN FINISH ON PLASTIC Hi Guys Another little tip this is mainly for the beginner to plastic kit model making. After sanding holes or small parts it tends to leave small wispy bits I have found that if you use a small paint
    brush
    and liquid plastic glue and
    brush
    over the area it cleans it up and leaves a nice Finnish. As you may of gathered I also tinkering with plastic kits. I also use this when working with plastic card. The photos are just for demonstration,But you can see the results on the railings on my Gato. Martin.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Glue
    Best suggestion i Can give is a good industrial barrier cream. Like Rosalex but more modern.Better for Elf'n safety too.Use cocktail sticks or splints of wood to apply small amounts of glue etc. You can't be that bad if you're on the 3rd build though.We all suffer for our hobby like that to some extent . I well remember biting balsa and plastic cement off my fingers. Barring solvents ( Chloroform ,Ether , Acetone,Celly thinners etc) still the best way to shift it. Also use disposable tweezers to handle small parts or steel ones you can scrape or burn off Good luck John.πŸ˜› P S I found a liquid called Plastic Magic. It is applied to the closed( close fitting )joint with the tip of a fine
    brush
    . Just a drop. It shoots along the joint by capillary action. Gravity helps too.πŸ€”. I've yet to find a plastic it won't glue/join.brilliant stuff. regards holding things steady to dry many things can be used. Pins,bulldog ,clips,clothes pegs, steel blocks,Lego type blocks
    1 month ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Glue
    Hi, For the plastic card I use humbrol liquid poly (see photo)and applied with a small paint
    brush
    . And I also use super glue and if I apply it to small areas after it has been painted I use a thin piece if electrical wire, (sometimes just one strand)and for a larger area I use a cocktail stick. For two part epoxy I use different sizes of plastic card depending on how much I use. I hope this helps.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Blog
    The Well Deck side panels & Boat Hooks.
    As a police boat would need to have some boat hooks for retrieving flotsam and various β€˜things’ 😝 from the river I adapted some of the same ready-made ones that I had used previously on my fire boat, they are available on eBay from β€˜Battlecrafts’. They come in a set of three with various hook ends and are nicely made from hardwood dowel with white metal end fittings. I started by making up two paper templates, one for each side of the boat and drew out a layout of the wooden frame parts that make up the detail panels that will hold the boat hooks. These were made mostly from obeche strip but with the topmost wide strip made from 1.5mm ply. The parts were laid on the template and a spot of superglue used to fix the pieces together. After a couple of coats of Teak stain they were epoxied to the side walls. The boat hooks were trimmed to length and a brass loop end made for each and then both were finished with pine stain and the white metal ends
    brush
    painted with gunmetal grey. Some thin brass sheet was cut and formed into retaining hooks with a threaded rivet to secure them to the deck sides. The finished result fills a bare area on the well deck walls quite effectively.😁
    2 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Tug towing
    The Decaperm 6v geared is 1:2.75. And very high torque, so it ought to swing a pretty big prop. Measure the prop diameter when you get home as well, also the number of blades. Have you considered experimenting with different propellers? That can radically change a boat's performance with little effort. Props can be expensive, but you can buy a few cheap ones, or borrow some from a club colleague for experiment. Either increase the diameter or the pitch (or both!) if possible, or go for a 4-bladed one rather than 3-bladed.... I don't know about a Kv/torque relationship - the key distinction is inrunner (high speed/low torque) vs outrunner (high torque/lower speed). Although that is a very general statement, and almost certainly untrue for some motors. KV is a measure of how many revs per volt you can expect. So an 800KV would give you 4800 revs at 6v - not a lot, though that depends on the prop, of course. I normally go for around 1000Kv, and run at 7.2v. Voltage is important for a
    brush
    ed motor - the
    brush
    gear is designed for a particular voltage and will wear badly with increased volts.
    brush
    less do not have this problem, and can run on a wide variety of voltages. Running at 24v is quite possible... The ESC you want for a
    brush
    less is simply one that can handle the maximum current your motor will draw - which you can either look up or measure with a Watt Meter. The key concern I usually have with
    brush
    less motors is thermal. They are normally designed for aircraft use, where they will get lots of air cooling, and we are putting them in sealed enclosures. Unless you want to water cool, I would suggest running a
    brush
    less well down below maximum power, to keep the temperature down. So overspec it, or run with a lower than maximum voltage...
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    The Radio Aerial
    Another cabin roof fitting is the radio aerial, this also needs to be detachable for transport and storage. For the base I cut and formed a disc from some brass bar and β€˜turned’ it to the desired size and profile in my makeshift 'lathe' (a Black & Decker horizontal drill stand) and then the centre hole was enlarged to take a 4mm brass tube which was silver soldered into the base. The piece was then cleaned up with some abrasive paper and wire wool. A short piece of 3mm brass rod was then threaded and soft soldered into the bottom of the base to form the fixing stud. For the aerial rod I used a short piece of 3mm tube and some 2mm brass rod, the tube fits inside the base tube and the rod in the centre, and this was soft soldered together into the base. Finally a piece of 3mm tube was soldered to the end of the rod and turned to shape it into a ball. The rod was also given a slight taper with files and abrasives. The whole piece was sprayed with grey etch primer and when dry the base was
    brush
    painted with some black acrylic and finally some clear satin lacquer finishes off the part. πŸ˜€ The aerial fixes to the roof through a white plasticard base with a 3mm wing nut.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    White Star BB''570''
    Started on an easy build. A White Start from Billing Boats. As usually the build instruction is very basic, all is more ore less shown on the main drawing. I have skipped the original 3mm shaft and added a 4mm from Robbe incl. a 3 blade Graupner racing prop as used in my Classic. I'll be using a 1100KV
    brush
    less motor with a 2S LiPo. The basic of the hull is now done.
    5 months ago by Tica
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    Thank you. In the end I used 'Lifecolor' acrylic paints, which although come in 22ml tinlets, go an awfully long way. You can also get a 'spray' like finish using a
    brush
    . I would highly recommend the brand.
    3 months ago by cormorant
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    Great work on the hull Stuart. I built the same kit last year and really enjoyed the project, the Huntsman is an awesome looking craft too and super light weight. in mine I’ve experimented with a few different
    brush
    ed motors, trying to get scale speed versus β€œplay time” balance. I landed on a 35 turn which at half speed is pretty good for scale speed and at full noise it really gets up and moves for a bit of fun. The last few runs I’ve seen up to 25-30 mins from a 7.2v Ni-Mh pack which has been great. Look forward to seeing your progress, all the best and enjoy the build.
    3 months ago by ChrisB
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Could someone advise me on a suitable
    brush
    ed motor for the Anteo tug 800 mm length. Also how do you reverse motor,special esc or reversing switch ? Thanks Dick
    9 months ago by Dick
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    You can power a
    brush
    less from lead acid batteries electric is electric. Lipo batteries are often used because of their ability to provide power with a relatively low weight and can dump LOTS of amps. As Colin pointed out 2 6volt batteries in parallel will provide 6 volts and cannot be tapped for 12v to obtain 12v the batteries need to be in series and 6 volts can be tapped off but will only provide the energy from one of the two batteries.
    3 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about
    brush
    less motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
    3 months ago by Dick
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    if your intending to use a car ESC have a good read before you buy some of them require you to select reverse then go back to neutral before selecting reverse again to actually reverse the motor. The first reverse acts as a brake. Just to satisfy my curiosity why did you want
    brush
    ed rather than
    brush
    less? There are a lot of
    brush
    less motors used in the model car sport and generally have advantages over
    brush
    ed motors.
    3 months ago by Haverlock
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    Nice hard work, well done i now usually get a glass fibre hull if i can. Ive run mine with Irvine 40, and 2 different
    brush
    less, 2075 kva and 1150 motors and all performed well 3 or 4 cell lipos, go for the biggest capacity 5200`s as the weight is no problem and double your run time. Pic shows latest motor i think its 2900 kva ill try it out soon. I seem to use the Huntsman then take the motors out for other projects
    3 months ago by vortex
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    No. The motor size is not in the instructions, but from a previous forum post I've been recommended a 28xx
    brush
    less 1100Kv with a 11.1V 2200Mah LiPo battery. Yes. I have that edition and following the editorial. it is a more detailed version of the instructions as both written by Dave Milbourne. πŸ‘
    3 months ago by StuartE
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both
    brush
    less ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to β€œturn”. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre
    brush
    ed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.
    3 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Hi justkiddin I live in Hobart, so not to far away from you mate. My mate and I both have Sea Hornets, his has a funny cabin on it also. Mine is build by the original plans.
    brush
    less 28mm 1900kv, 45Amp ESC on 3S with a 32mm prop. Was GPS at Lauderdale canal at 45KPH. WE sail on a Saturday morning from 9 to 12, so if you are down this way call in. Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Robbob, This was my first venture into using
    brush
    less motors so I was a bit uncertain on cooling. I made the fans from aluminium and bolted them on at the existing 2mm bolt locations. Someone told me they wouldn't rev fast enough but I think every bit helps. I also have water cooling at the front plate of the motors. The end result is that the motors never get warm, even after an hour of sailing around the lake at good speed.
    3 months ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Brave Borderer
    During our protracted wait for Spring, have had chance to reflect on the earlier tribulations with the
    brush
    less motor installation. My enthusiasm was sparked by an article on getting the best from your Tx in a magazine and the advantages of using the Elevon or V Tail facilities if available. My Flysky Rx/Tx has this facility, so after some experiments, set the boat up to use the Elevon function. This puts both motor ESCs on the same control lever, so advancing the control accelerates both screws equally and moving to either side accelerates, or slows the appropriate motor. Think this will reduce the coordination previously required to sail in a straight line. Fresh from that success decided to experiment further. The Tx allows reducing Servo throw, so tried that too so could reduce the max. ESC output, it also seems to work. One problem with the original layout was that if the forward speed was reduced quickly it was very easy to move the lever through the neutral point, overshooting into reverse. This immediately reversed that motor causing erratic operation. The Tx also has a β€œDual Rate” facility to adjust the lever response from linear to various alternate rates. This allows the neutral point zone to be increased, so the tendency to overshoot into reverse is reduced. Bench tests of these adjustments suggest the model will be easier to operate. Hope they will make controlling the models performance better in our closest pool, which is quite small. A further precaution to prevent inadvertent operation of the
    brush
    less motors when using the centre,
    brush
    ed one, was to add two small relays; one into each of the white ESC signal wires. This allows a another channel on the Tx to be used to select, or deselect the
    brush
    less motors. Anticipate that by turning this channel and thus the
    brush
    less ESCs off, manoeuvring can be accomplished without the operation being overwhelmed by a
    brush
    ed motor inadvertently being operated. My patience for Spring is getting thinner!
    3 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    What size
    brush
    less motor?
    I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single prop shaft and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful
    brush
    less electric motor/ battery combination I can fit? I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied. Thank you in anticipation....πŸ‘
    4 months ago by StuartE
    Forum
    What size
    brush
    less motor?
    As far as
    brush
    less motors go I wouldn't know. But I think that you would still need to experiment with various props sizes to get the best one.
    4 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    What size
    brush
    less motor?
    Hi Stuart I think Dave Milborne used a 1000 or 1200kv 28mm
    brush
    less. You can PM on the model boat forum site. He is the kingpin on Huntsman's and is Fairley helpful guy . Canabus
    4 months ago by canabus
    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    Hi Boatshed....How is our refurb going? I'm currently building a new Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I've just started so keen to get as much shared info on any "gotchas". I see yours has a single prop....what motor does it have? My kit is single prop and want to get the most economical/powerful
    brush
    less as I can, but as a novice, don't have much of an idea at present.
    4 months ago by StuartE
    Media
    ,huntsman, pursuit, perkassa
    some pics of
    brush
    less motor set ups that seem to work
    4 months ago by vortex
    Media
    perkassa
    renovated 49" very easy to plane with current set up 2075 kva
    brush
    less 120 a speedo 45 mm brass prop
    4 months ago by vortex
    Blog
    The motor cover.
    I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the
    brush
    less outrunner motor can’t be water cooled and I don’t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer β€˜rotor’ creating some air movement. I don’t intend to run this boat very fast so I’m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway🀞. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, I’ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the water pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Good evening Can someone advise me on the correct method to paint white metal fittings, the fittings I have, had been painted several times,so I have scrapped the layers off down to bare metal,do I have to prime or can I
    brush
    paint straight on. Which is best enamel or acrylic. Thanks Roger
    4 months ago by Rogal118
    Forum
    Replacement motor
    I run 1100KVA
    brush
    less from HK watercooled with 120A watercooled speedo on 4s 5200`s in my Surfury and Cigarette 36" and they belt along with 50mm 2blade Mocom props but you dont have to run it flat out.
    4 months ago by vortex
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Hi Rogal, Whatever it is (wood, fibre glass, plastic, white or any other colour metal) PRIME IT! Primers are designed to give the top coat paints something to stick to. Otherwise they will scratch easily and flake off especially from smooth plastic or metallic surfaces etc. Enamel or acrylic? Your choice, just make sure both are the same basis otherwise you may get a nasty reaction when you apply the top coat😲 Acrylics are usually easier to use, don't pong, and the
    brush
    es can be cleaned in warm water😊 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Replacement motor
    Hi Bengtt For that size model I use a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv
    brush
    less motor or a D3548/4 1100kv on a 3S lipo battery(between 3700-5800mah), a 60 or 100Amp car ESC (HK-60A-SL or HK-100A), program card(HK PROG-CARD). I have a good setup for this system, if you require. Prop start with the one you have, but I use a 2 blade 40mm or 3 Blade 37mm (brass or CNC). Slightly over scale speed, depending on the boat. Canabus
    4 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Hi Colin, Try this version, P94 for
    brush
    ed motors, from Action Electronics at Component Shop. Only throttle and rudder inputs with automatic mixing. I have one of these I intend to use for my long thin destroyer, or maybe the Graf Spee. Or the P40 for
    brush
    less, same operating principle. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/mixers-multifunction.html. I may get one of these for my PT109. heers, Doug 😎
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Motors
    Go
    brush
    less and let it perform
    4 months ago by vortex
    Forum
    Good buy from Lidl
    I bought one tonight. I find that when running there is a strong 'electrical' smell. My partner says that it is the
    brush
    es arcing. is this normal? Apart from that it looks a useful tool
    4 months ago by Nerys
    Blog
    Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6
    Hi, Have added two
    brush
    less motors prop shafts etc, twin rudders as per original boat and also a cabin roof. Did a test run (sorry no pics) but she was great, predictable and stable in rough conditions. I have started on the inner decking, this plugs in the hull, still a lot to do.
    5 months ago by CB90
    Media
    Thames cruise barge
    total scratch built on fibreglass hull 127cm x24 cm,11 months to build 6volt system
    brush
    ed motor,3blade 35mm brass prop.
    5 months ago by markiee
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    At this moment in time. I am completing a TID Tug boat. My next project is a Fairmile D MTB at 1/24 scale. I intend to run 4 props using
    brush
    ed motors and two ESCs. I am looking for reasonable performance from
    brush
    ed motors probably Johnson 600 motors running 3 blade 40mm props. Can anyone give me advice regards this setup or can recommend an alternative that does not involve to much expense.
    1 year ago by andyhynes
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Thanks HaigπŸ‘ I just hope Andy is still around. Maybe a variant of my four screw setup for my HMS Belfast could help him. I'm going to upgrade it with differential ESC control for the two outer motors to assist the steering, the 'beast' (125cm), only has one rudder. I also use SLAs (and
    brush
    ed motors) in such large displacement hulls, but for planing hulls these days the 'norm' must surely be
    brush
    less and LiPo (or at least HiPower NiMhπŸ˜‰). G'night from frozen Munich 😑 Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x
    brush
    less motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    5 months ago by reilly4
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !. The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result. The
    brush
    less in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor compartment. This is not a racing boat remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect. I'll report back when it's had some sea trials 😁 Robbob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Fire Boat) Fireboat
    Recently acquired Fireboat that needs refurbishment. Existing loose single shaft removed and twin shafts and rudders fitted. To fitted with twin (possibly
    brush
    less) motors, each with its own battery and controller. Updates to follow. (5/10)
    5 months ago by Welshsailor
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Ron. I am currently building the Aeronauts Pilot Boat Kit. it is reasonably well advanced now but I still have to fit the electronics. I bought two 400 sport
    brush
    ed motors and was advised at a very early stage that two speed controllers were necessary. I looked into various solutions and found that Hobbyking sell a dual speed controller especially for two motors. it is a Hobbywing Quicrun 860. I hope this helps.😊 Peter.
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Glassfibre cloth & epoxy resin
    To those intending to glass a hull, take Robs advise I did and it works fine, it's tempting to load more resin on at the
    brush
    ing in stage but DON'T
    5 months ago by mturpin013
    Blog
    Glassfibre cloth & epoxy resin
    I used glassfibre cloth and epoxy resin successfully when building my 46” RAF Crash Tender and I chose to do the same with the Police Boat. See: https://model-boats.com/builds/view/23951 for the Crash Tender blog. The application of the cloth and resin serves to strengthen the hull enormously and produces a completely watertight hull, and after additional coats of resin are applied and sanded between coats resulting in a surface that is absolutely smooth and the perfect substrate for the subsequent paint process. With the benefit of my previous experience and greater confidence working with these materials I used a β€˜fast’ hardener with the resin which gives a working time of 30 minutes and a much shorter curing time where previously I had used a 90 minute β€˜slow’ hardener. The basic process is to cut the cloth roughly to shape with a good margin of overlap and then use masking tape along one edge so that after the resin has been
    brush
    ed onto the hull the cloth can just be lifted over onto the resin. I then lightly
    brush
    the cloth into the resin and push the cloth into any tight angles, without any further resin on the
    brush
    , until the weave of the cloth is filled and there are no air pockets and the cloth is completely flat. At this point DO NO MORE as the resin will start to harden and any more fiddling with it will cause the cloth to lift and bubble, less is definitely more in this instance. The resin should cure completely overnight and can be trimmed with a sharp blade. I tend to cover a hull in five stages, as there are five β€˜faces’ to the hull and thus it’s a five day process for me, this may be time consuming but I think the results are worth the effort. I will
    brush
    on two further coats of resin when the rubbing strakes and gunwales have been added, this will completely fill the weave of the cloth to create a nice flat surface but it’s essential to rub down each coat after curing. All the materials were bought from β€˜Easy Composites’ https://www.easycomposites.co.uk
    5 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A
    brush
    ed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a
    brush
    ed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the
    brush
    ed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.
    5 months ago by jbkiwi


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