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    White Star BB''570''
    Started on an easy build. A White Start from Billing Boats. As usually the build instruction is very basic, all is more ore less shown on the main drawing. I have skipped the original 3mm shaft and added a 4mm from Robbe incl. a 3 blade Graupner racing prop as used in my Classic. I'll be using a 1100KV
    brushless motor
    with a 2S LiPo. The basic of the hull is now done.
    4 months ago by Tica
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about
    brushless motor
    s and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
    2 months ago by Dick
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    if your intending to use a car ESC have a good read before you buy some of them require you to select reverse then go back to neutral before selecting reverse again to actually reverse the motor. The first reverse acts as a brake. Just to satisfy my curiosity why did you want brushed rather than brushless? There are a lot of
    brushless motor
    s used in the model car sport and generally have advantages over brushed motors.
    2 months ago by Haverlock
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    Nice hard work, well done i now usually get a glass fibre hull if i can. Ive run mine with Irvine 40, and 2 different brushless, 2075 kva and 1150 motors and all performed well 3 or 4 cell lipos, go for the biggest capacity 5200`s as the weight is no problem and double your run time. Pic shows latest motor i think its 2900 kva ill try it out soon. I seem to use the Huntsman then take the motors out for other projects
    2 months ago by vortex
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to β€œturn”. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.
    3 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Robbob, This was my first venture into using
    brushless motor
    s so I was a bit uncertain on cooling. I made the fans from aluminium and bolted them on at the existing 2mm bolt locations. Someone told me they wouldn't rev fast enough but I think every bit helps. I also have water cooling at the front plate of the motors. The end result is that the motors never get warm, even after an hour of sailing around the lake at good speed.
    3 months ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Brave Borderer
    During our protracted wait for Spring, have had chance to reflect on the earlier tribulations with the
    brushless motor
    installation. My enthusiasm was sparked by an article on getting the best from your Tx in a magazine and the advantages of using the Elevon or V Tail facilities if available. My Flysky Rx/Tx has this facility, so after some experiments, set the boat up to use the Elevon function. This puts both motor ESCs on the same control lever, so advancing the control accelerates both screws equally and moving to either side accelerates, or slows the appropriate motor. Think this will reduce the coordination previously required to sail in a straight line. Fresh from that success decided to experiment further. The Tx allows reducing Servo throw, so tried that too so could reduce the max. ESC output, it also seems to work. One problem with the original layout was that if the forward speed was reduced quickly it was very easy to move the lever through the neutral point, overshooting into reverse. This immediately reversed that motor causing erratic operation. The Tx also has a β€œDual Rate” facility to adjust the lever response from linear to various alternate rates. This allows the neutral point zone to be increased, so the tendency to overshoot into reverse is reduced. Bench tests of these adjustments suggest the model will be easier to operate. Hope they will make controlling the models performance better in our closest pool, which is quite small. A further precaution to prevent inadvertent operation of the
    brushless motor
    s when using the centre, brushed one, was to add two small relays; one into each of the white ESC signal wires. This allows a another channel on the Tx to be used to select, or deselect the
    brushless motor
    s. Anticipate that by turning this channel and thus the brushless ESCs off, manoeuvring can be accomplished without the operation being overwhelmed by a brushed motor inadvertently being operated. My patience for Spring is getting thinner!
    3 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    What size
    brushless motor
    ?
    I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single prop shaft and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful brushless electric motor/ battery combination I can fit? I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied. Thank you in anticipation....πŸ‘
    3 months ago by StuartE
    Forum
    What size
    brushless motor
    ?
    As far as
    brushless motor
    s go I wouldn't know. But I think that you would still need to experiment with various props sizes to get the best one.
    3 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    What size
    brushless motor
    ?
    Hi Stuart I think Dave Milborne used a 1000 or 1200kv 28mm brushless. You can PM on the model boat forum site. He is the kingpin on Huntsman's and is Fairley helpful guy . Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Media
    ,huntsman, pursuit, perkassa
    some pics of
    brushless motor
    set ups that seem to work
    3 months ago by vortex
    Blog
    The motor cover.
    I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless outrunner motor can’t be water cooled and I don’t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer β€˜rotor’ creating some air movement. I don’t intend to run this boat very fast so I’m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway🀞. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, I’ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the water pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.
    3 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Replacement motor
    Hi Bengtt For that size model I use a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv
    brushless motor
    or a D3548/4 1100kv on a 3S lipo battery(between 3700-5800mah), a 60 or 100Amp car ESC (HK-60A-SL or HK-100A), program card(HK PROG-CARD). I have a good setup for this system, if you require. Prop start with the one you have, but I use a 2 blade 40mm or 3 Blade 37mm (brass or CNC). Slightly over scale speed, depending on the boat. Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Blog
    Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6
    Hi, Have added two
    brushless motor
    s prop shafts etc, twin rudders as per original boat and also a cabin roof. Did a test run (sorry no pics) but she was great, predictable and stable in rough conditions. I have started on the inner decking, this plugs in the hull, still a lot to do.
    4 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x
    brushless motor
    s each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    4 months ago by reilly4
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !. The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result. The brushless in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor compartment. This is not a racing boat remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect. I'll report back when it's had some sea trials 😁 Robbob.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Fire Boat) Fireboat
    Recently acquired Fireboat that needs refurbishment. Existing loose single shaft removed and twin shafts and rudders fitted. To fitted with twin (possibly brushless) motors, each with its own battery and controller. Updates to follow. (5/10)
    4 months ago by Welshsailor
    Response
    Fast Patrol Boat
    Hi BOATSHED, The wooden block is screwed and araldited ti the keel and supports an Aluminium bracket designed for holding a
    brushless motor
    in an Aeroplane, use what’s available I always say. The coupling is Silicon tube fitted to brass universal coupling fittings and because the way brushless run is very quiet compared to a normal Unversal Joint assembly. Will post it running shortly. Thanks for you interest. Graham
    4 months ago by jelley_baby
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my
    brushless motor
    . It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin
    6 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Fast Patrol Boat
    How does the coupling work, as it looks to be a flexi coupling. There also looks like you have a wooden support under the motor? With the torque on
    brushless motor
    s will it not wave about? I look forward to seeing her on the water, hope you do a bit of video of her.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    just as a matter interest how much weight were you thinking , i know it is light and may be quick with the
    brushless motor
    5 months ago by sandgrounder
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the
    brushless motor
    s. Canabus
    5 months ago by canabus
    Media
    Electric Barbarella
    Ahoy Maties! it's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. it measures 24 X 8.5 inches. it is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns),
    brushless motor
    attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁
    5 months ago by Krampus
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap Chinese car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in
    brushless motor
    s. You will also find that some Chinese motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. if it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). if you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it. Water cooled marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv water cooled motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushless ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.
    5 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    brushless motor
    (s)
    Thanks, probably explains why the original motor is out of stock with no estimated replenishment date. Will update my notes to the 3639 750 kV Rowen
    5 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    brushless motor
    (s)
    Hi, I have recently purchased a Precedent KD Perkasa kit 37" and would like to power it with a
    brushless motor
    , but being an Old F**t I know nothing at all about
    brushless motor
    s or their relevant speed controllers or battery power. So I would like your input on what exactly I need, obviously I would like the model to have a fair turn of speed. Thanking you in anticipation of your much needed assistance. Little Charlie
    7 months ago by Little-Charlie
    Forum
    brushless motor
    (s)
    Hi RHBaker I had the motor ,so I used it. The sister motor is a 3639-750kv 600Watts 8325 rpm on 3S. The 3639-1100kv 800Watts 12210 rpm on 3S. Next up the 3648-1450kv 1600Watts 16095 rpm on 3S. All are straight bolt replacement, but, the 3648 requires a 100Amp ESC. The 3639 750kv would be the better motor for the boat to get scale speed. Canabus
    5 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    brushless motor
    (s)
    Well Canabus, certainly fast! Very envious of seeing open water too. If was not obsessed with building to scale, looks like your power train combination would be ideal. Once the water is Canada regains liquid form will be returning to my Brave B. Am confident it will now be much better, although potentially still overpowered. Have various methods available for controlling the performance in mind now. However, if nothing really works could, with some minor modifications fit a powertrain rather like yours. More food for though!
    5 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    brushless motor
    (s)
    Charlie, Good question. I have a number of
    brushless motor
    s and esc' from my model airplane days..... I model slow boats like tugs and just assumed that they would be too fast for these boats, but I don't know if this is true or not.... Maybe someone out there knows? Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Cooling coil
    Yes, that is what was thinking. Normally with
    brushless motor
    s it is the motor mount that is water cooled which draws the heat out of the motor. it may not need cooling anyway.
    5 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    brushless motor
    (s)
    Hi Charlie I have tested my 37" Perkasa with a brushless 3639-1100kv motor from Hobbyking, a 60A ESC, 3S 5800MAH Lipo battery and 37mm 3 blade CNC prop. It's dam fast !!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fddqnbnlrQ Canabus
    5 months ago by canabus
    Response
    Cooling coil
    Hi it might be the wine but it appears you have put the cooling coil over the rotating rotor of the
    brushless motor
    should be fun when you connect up and run. if it is the wine I will shut up Cheers Ian
    5 months ago by TOWN3810
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi I think the sensored
    brushless motor
    s have an additional wiring harness which plugs into the esc. this senses the position of the rotor and two motors are therefore sincronised. Just thinking and thinking can be dangerous especially with me Cheers Ian
    5 months ago by TOWN3810
    Forum
    Outboard Motors
    Sorry about the typographical error, guys. The model is indeed 50cm long. Does anyone have experience of the Graupner outboards? Some seem to have
    brushless motor
    s so should have some oomph.
    5 months ago by BigChris
    Forum
    Modern electrics
    Hi all, Not been araound for awhile as I have been playing with aircraft as well, I have however found time to scratch build a Fairy Huntsman which I now want to upgrade to modern electrics, a
    brushless motor
    and esc etc, should I avoid lipo's due to the heat issues or can I use them ok. The hull is 42 inches long any suggestions on motor size would be appreciated, also esc size, the boat seems a bi on the heavy side. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    5 months ago by deltaman
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Right, I've attached a few photos of the classic which hopefully will help with your build. They are a very simple and enjoyable kit to build, I really enjoyed it. The motor is a Brushless inrunner 220w motor BM400 2100KV V3 Blue. I purchased it from Gliders and it cost Β£25 including postage. it's an excellent motor and it's very fast. Hope you enjoy building it and don't forget to upload some pics afterwards. Good Luck. SimonπŸ‘
    6 months ago by Sifi70
    Forum
    fuse holder
    Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated
    brushless motor
    s at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin bearings if you did that...
    6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    fuse holder
    Depends what type of motor you want to use. if using a can type dc motor only power to the recommended battery, usually shown on the motor casing. if going brushless, again they are rated to battery size, ie 2s, 3s, etc, but the motors are a lot more flexible as to battery output. Some can cover 3 or 4 battery sizes.
    6 months ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)
    I am not sure that you mean 'latex'. The most usual soft tubes are silicone rubber. Not neoprene, as it is usually too stiff. There are all sorts of universal joints available. Here are some metal ones from Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-RC-Model-Boat-Robot-Universal-Joint-Shaft-Coupling-Motor-Connector-2-5mm/253848013746?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55149%26meid%3D95631f1d170a4b7294c22a48e8978fa2%26pid%3D101006%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D253848013746&_trksid=p2045573.c101006.m3226 These are surely too strong for small boats, however. The Eezebilt range are typically 30-50cm long and I use silicone rubber joints on
    brushless motor
    s there quite satisfactorily. You just need to be sure that the tube wall thickness is sufficient - typically 3-4mm. Here is a picture of the Eezebilt PT Boat (50 cm long) motor connector, with a picture of it running. You will see that it can go at a reasonable speed. See http://www.eezebilt.tk/PTBoat.html
    6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Directory
    (Other) RNZAF W1
    36" Scratch built model of RNZAF W1, a British Power Boat 64ft HSL. Has twin
    brushless motor
    s, twin ESCs, twin sound units, water cooling pump, full lighting and r/c switches for lights and pump. Took approx 5 yrs to buid on and off. hull is strip planked and f/glassed, deck is ply, wheel house is balsa. (Motor: TGY 28/45 2000KV INRUNNER) (ESC: CHINA) (5/10)
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. it seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the
    brushless motor
    s essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a β€œY” lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.
    6 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Good thinking BatmanπŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘ I hate those slide switches as well. They're always the first thing to fail on my garden solar lights. Nice trick with the relays, could also perhaps have used one double pole relay to replace the ESC switches? Otherwise they are energised but in an 'undefined' state 😲 Strange, I don't have your 'modulation' problems with the brushless (1000kV) in my Sea Scout!? 'Get-home'; agreed πŸ‘, that's why I'm pondering squishing a centre motor into my PT Boat. it's all stripped out and in the 'C Check' dock πŸ€” so now is the time! All the best Rowen, cheers, Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make β€œimprovements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the
    brushless motor
    ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the
    brushless motor
    s could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the
    brushless motor
    s and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a β€œget-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.
    6 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    You're as BAD as me Boaty πŸ˜‰ but I had a Rover 2000 with fully reclining seats back then - no problem 😁 Re 3 wires on a brushless. Simply put, this is analogous to a 3 phase AC motor (such as used in bathroom extractor fans etc). If you apply a single phase AC voltage to an AC motor it just twitches backwards and forwards in the same place as the voltage crosses from the positive to the negative half cycle. Thus 3 phases are applied giving 3 'shoves' in sequence to keep things moving. A starter capacitor is also needed to give the motor a 'belt' to shove it off. Similarly with a brushless: the ESC senses where the motor armature is in relation to the magnet poles and applies a DC pulse to the next armature coil in sequence. When you shove the throttle up the pulse width lengthens applying a longer shove and thus more energy and speed. Pulling the throttle back with a reversible ESC just turns the pulse train upside down so that negative DC pulses are applied to the motor, reversing the magnetic field created in the armature and thus the rotation. Simple really. It's the sensing and timing done inside the ESC that's the tricky bit, which is why we had to wait about a hundred years from the invention of the AC motor (Nikolai Tesla) until we could use them in models - thanks to micro-electronics. Here endeth today's seminar 😁😁 Happy brushlessing Folks, cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm, perhaps that's why electric toothbrushes use brushed motors! 😁😜
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Westquay It sounds Doug has got it right. I only went over to brushless 3 years ago when I returned to fast electric. All my existing models at the time had brushed motors installed and I did become confused with the "new technology". Having three wires from the motor to the ESC was a bit difficult to comprehend but as the boat was an RTR it was helpful due to having an instruction manual with it. It just takes time and experience to get use to such changes but it will be right in the end. My only experience of a non starter was back in 1976, this being the only time I had a date with a married woman. I had a Lotus Elan then and there was no room in the back and it would have been a waste of time calling the AA to resolve it.😁😎 Boaty
    6 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Thanks, Doug, I take it that throttle down would mean throttle back with a pistol set like the Flysky? Also, it's a Lipo I want to tell it about. I went nuts and bought one as it's a
    brushless motor
    . So as soon as I hear a beep I yank back on the throttle trigger? Let's hope it doesn't just beep continuously like it did before. Foghorn? I had no idea it was there. Norn Airish Snookrr soo et ezz. Don't do sports. Cheers, Martin
    6 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi rapidair65, Most Brushless ESCs seem to assume that you are using either LiPo or NiMh batteries. it needs to know which so it can set the correct cut off voltage per cell, e.g. 3.=V for Lipo. From the applied voltage it can work out how many cells and the correct cut off. If you are using two SLA I assume 2x6V in series giving 12V. So tell the ESC that you are using NiMh and it will assume 10 cells @ 1.2V / cell. I'll be interested to hear how you get on as an SLA has nominally 2V per cell!! You should get away with it as the ESC checks the total voltage applied - it has no access to individual cells πŸ˜‰ it will probably let the battery voltage go down to 11V before stopping the motor(s)😲 Good luck, Cheers, Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A
    brushless motor
    ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. if you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Other) Vosper
    I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the
    brushless motor
    in this boat with an aircraft Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse gearbox with a clutch, the gearbox is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a water pump so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool. (Motor: Os 40 fourstroke) (10/10)
    7 months ago by Biscuit
    Forum
    Fast electric rc transmitters
    Just got a new Proboat Sonicwake .The e.s.c and
    brushless motor
    look very good but the STX2 TX appears to be a bit cheap . Not sailed it as yet but changed over to the Futaba T2HR system as I had already done on my Blackjack 29. I prefer the stick to the wheel and the Blackjack runs very well on the Futaba T2HR and has the steering adjuster on top right of the TX case. Has anyone else used the Futaba set in place of the one that comes with the boat.😁 Boaty
    7 months ago by boaty


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