|||
Not Registered
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
Cancel
Anytime
Β£2.50
Β£4.50
Β£6.50
Subscribe
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
For A Whole Year!
Β£25
Β£45
Β£65
Donate
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Download The App!

    Login To
    Remove Ads
    Login To
    Remove Ads

    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Search
    Search
    Blog
    Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug
    Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever
    build blog
    , bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    Hello all. I hope you can help me before I lose all of my hair. I recently purchased a Turnigy 9x set which, according to all of the reviews I have seen, is good value for money. I am sure that they are all right but you need to be a genius to understand the instructions. Everything is in short hand. I am fairly new to the latest radios but I can read. This is not good. The internet has been invaluable and I have found a good instruction book for the Flysky 9x which appears to be the same. I have now got through the basics but I am having a problem achieving what I bought it for in the first place. My latest build, a Pilot boat, has been wired such that I need to use three channels to operate rc switches. I would like to use channels 5, 6 and 7. I have found that I can set 5 to gear which gives me one switch, another can go to throttle something to give me two switches, but the other choices go to trimmers only. After reading bloggs it seems that I can get a third switch working on, say, channel 7, but have to alter mix settings. I am completely lost now and wondered if anybody could instruct me as to how to get this third switch to operate on channel seven. Thank you.😊
    5 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    New Website Sneak Peak
    Thought I'd share a sneak peak of the new website with everyone. I was hoping it'd be live by now, but things have required more development time than I first thought. So instead of giving you all a half-baked system, I've kept it in development a bit longer. In the screenshots: - New home page layout, forum middle-top, then
    build blog
    s, media gallery, events, clubs/lakes, new harbour boats, a new section for how-to articles and useful links. - How-to articles can be edited - Useful links can be posted on their own - Any member can follow any other member - Forum threads as well as blogs can be followed - New events section, with calendar and map - New places section, also with map - Cleaner layout for forum threads and blogs - Completely refreshed mobile app - New ranking system (some of you will change rank, but it'll remain fair to who has contributed the most) - Easier login, easier uploading of files, easier posting in general - Faster website, all database queries have been restructured to provide fast responses - New notifications area showing all updates to everything you're following There's a tonne more, I do think you'll all love the new site once it's live. Still don't want to promise dates, but when it's ready, it'll launch! Many thanks again to everyone who supports this website. Without this, we'd have sunk years ago! Stephen
    5 years ago by fireboat
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    Hi Boaty. Thank you for you compliments, I'm pleased you're enjoying my
    build blog
    😁. The VMW kit has been developed really well and does credit to the original designer so definitely put one on your 'to-do' list. The kit is now available from VMW: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 The servo in mine is actually in a rear compartment that I formed and involves a bit of 'keyhole surgery' to work within but it means that the servo and all the operational running gear is very neatly hidden away, another benefit of the re-scaled version of this boat πŸ‘. PS. Note the relocated antenna ! Robbob.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Tug Brooklyn
    Thanks, Davevand Which Carol Moran there's the 1/72 scale and the 1/24th scale? Either one will look very nice! Don't forget to make a
    build blog
    ! Cheers, Ed
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    Hi Stuart, At 23" your Huntsman is only a tad smaller than my 24" Sea Scout which I refurbished last year, look for the
    build blog
    'Jessica - A Sea Scout restoration' on this site. I fitted a 1000kV 28mm Propdrive motor and Quicrun 16BL30 30A ESC from Hobbywing. including the ESC programming card the whole kit an' caboodle was just under 40 dollars from Hobbyking.com. With a 2S LiPo (7.4V) performance was sedate to adequate. With a 3S LiPo performance is 'twinkling' and a lot of fun to drive. Check out attached video links. Pt1: https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw First run with a 3S LiPo. Pt2: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM 'The competition'! Pt3: https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm Prop is a brass 30mm 3 blade from Raboesch. Hope this helps, Happy Sailing. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Video is in HD 1080p, taken at the Ostpark Lake in Munich (adjacent to the BiergartenπŸ˜‰πŸ˜) May 2018.
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Fist eager steps...easy!
    I do like the Huntsman, maybe I'll build one myself one day. Following your blog with interest. Robbob.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Media
    Mowe 2
    I hadn't built a model of any sort since I was 15 years old and that was a control line aeroplane with a glow worm engine. 45 years later and regressing nicely back to my teenage years, my wife bought me (reluctantly!) a RC Boat Kit - Mowe 2. I had been wanting to build again for many years, but children and family and home situation did not allow. So, over the cold Autumn and Winter Months I carefully put my spare nights to good use, rather than watching night after night TV box sets and re-watching the entire James Bond movies, not once but 2 or 3 times.... Anyhow after 3 months...the finished product. I should have started a blog but didn't know of this site until a few weeks ago. Not a brilliant finished job, but a satisfying one, and it sails nicely on Bushy Park boating lake in Kingston-upon-Thames. Now o nto bigger and more complicated things...a Fairey Huntsman 31. This time I'll do a blog....πŸ‘
    5 years ago by StuartE
    Response
    Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    I have all the machines and more but I cannot do that. You have a real skill. I love your fixture ideas. One day I will try to machine some similar parts when I start my 46" RAF Crash Tender. I intend to use this
    build blog
    as my guide. Thanks for all of the in depth explanations of how you achieve such detail using every trick in the book and many that are yet to be written. I love reading this build. Really clever. πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
    5 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    "Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam engine. When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam engine." 1. Cost. 2. Space available in the model. 3. Complexity of the engine and difficulty of control. 4. Fire risk, and not just to the model.😲 5. Shorter run times, longer 'steam up' times. 6. Unsuitabilty for many types of ships / boats. I.e. originals weren't steamers. If I read above posts correctly I thought you had already found at least two kindred spirits here. I'm sure that if you take the time to cull throught the hundreds
    build blog
    s and technical Posts here you will find others. Try using the Search function. See the panel on the left of the Home page. Good luck,😎 BTW: Nobody likes a fanatic! Don't get steamed up 😁
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Bustler
    Hi Marky, Looks very good. Can't wait to see the start of the
    build blog
    !
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Bustler
    While waiting for the new bandsaw blades to arrive to start the hull I started on the bridge and superstructure ,made from 18mm mdf .will start a
    build blog
    soon .πŸ‘
    5 years ago by marky
    Forum
    Emma C. Berry
    Nerys I original tried in-hull only but I could not get enough weight in a form that I could use with the RC related items I needed. Another
    build blog
    on this website showed theirs using the extension and the bulb so I changed tack.
    5 years ago by carpemoment
    Blog
    Paddle Tug Iona - the hull
    So... here is a compressed
    build blog
    of my paddle tug Iona... and I'm playing catch-up as the vessel is 95% complete and has been sailed already, but there may be some interest in what I've done. Iona was scratch-built off plan and has turned out to be the cheapest build so far out of 3 I've made, mainly because I was able to source materials from the leftovers box! it's a 'mixed-media' boat 😜using traditional methods of plank on frame hull, with paddles made on my 3D printer, and other parts turned on the lathe. So starting with the hull, frames were drawn out, transferred to some scrap 9mm ply and cut out on my bandsaw, along with the keel. These were assembled on a build board with some right angle brackets / measuring tools and test fitted before being stuck in place with epoxy. This was quite difficult as the shape of the hull is critical and comes right at the start of the build. I did remake 1 frame to correct alignment. The deck stringers need to bend in 2 directions, so some steaming with a carpet steam cleaner attached to some tubes worked and the wood clamped in place to dry. Outboard sponsons (?) were fitted to make a frame for the paddle boxes to fit on. Then a large sheet of ply forms the bottom of the hull, and the only job left to complete was the (tedious) planking. This was my 1st plank on frame ship... and it took ages. I think it came out reasonably OK but I'm not a perfectionist and I know if I'd spent more time it could be better... but I didn't! Next blog will feature building the paddle boxes and superstructure.πŸ€“
    5 years ago by Harvey Kitten
    Response
    HMS EXETER
    Ron?? Dat wuz me Haig! 😎 John, great shame you didn't do a
    build blog
    πŸ€” A vid of her sailing would compensate a little πŸ˜‰ BTW: I have a Deans Marine 1:96 kit of HMS Manxman, Do you need an escort? πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    San Pedro by Harbor Models!
    Ed, This is probably my favorite part of a build, deciding what to build! So many great boats out there, how many tugs do you currently have? Just curious.. Do you ever build sailboats? That's how I got started, with sails, like the history and quiet running of course. Glad to see you are jumping on to the next build, I liked your detailed blog on the Brooklyn, very well done. Cheers, Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi SiFi70. Here's the motor I'm using: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-3548-840kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?wrh_pdp=1&___store=en_us I'm pleased you're enjoying my
    build blog
    . Robbob.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Second hull skin on
    Hello, Just looked through your
    build blog
    , interesting way that you are doing the hull. Have you made any further progress on it? Very nice work on the lead bulb Cheers, Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Excellent news πŸ˜πŸ‘ No excuses now......get started on building that VMW Crash Tender. And don't forget to start a
    build blog
    too 😜
    5 years ago by robbob
    Blog
    Glassfibre cloth & epoxy resin
    I used glassfibre cloth and epoxy resin successfully when building my 46” RAF Crash Tender and I chose to do the same with the Police Boat. See: https://model-boats.com/builds/view/23951 for the Crash Tender blog. The application of the cloth and resin serves to strengthen the hull enormously and produces a completely watertight hull, and after additional coats of resin are applied and sanded between coats resulting in a surface that is absolutely smooth and the perfect substrate for the subsequent paint process. With the benefit of my previous experience and greater confidence working with these materials I used a β€˜fast’ hardener with the resin which gives a working time of 30 minutes and a much shorter curing time where previously I had used a 90 minute β€˜slow’ hardener. The basic process is to cut the cloth roughly to shape with a good margin of overlap and then use masking tape along one edge so that after the resin has been brushed onto the hull the cloth can just be lifted over onto the resin. I then lightly brush the cloth into the resin and push the cloth into any tight angles, without any further resin on the brush, until the weave of the cloth is filled and there are no air pockets and the cloth is completely flat. At this point DO NO MORE as the resin will start to harden and any more fiddling with it will cause the cloth to lift and bubble, less is definitely more in this instance. The resin should cure completely overnight and can be trimmed with a sharp blade. I tend to cover a hull in five stages, as there are five β€˜faces’ to the hull and thus it’s a five day process for me, this may be time consuming but I think the results are worth the effort. I will brush on two further coats of resin when the rubbing strakes and gunwales have been added, this will completely fill the weave of the cloth to create a nice flat surface but it’s essential to rub down each coat after curing. All the materials were bought from β€˜Easy Composites’ https://www.easycomposites.co.uk
    5 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Mamoli Puritan yacht plans
    What-ho chaps, hope you all had a merry one. I appear to have become the 'proud' owner of a Mamoli kit for the Americas Cup cup boat 'Puritan'. Everything is in the box with the exception of the plans, instructions and the keel and formers to build the hull. There is evidence the the owner had started to build the boat, some of the detail parts have been assembled, companion ways and the like, but all the hull planking appears to still be in its pack. I suspect he took the missing parts out to start the hull but got distracted. Sadly he died earlier this year but the kit is a few years old. Now this is where you come in, hopefully. Has anyone out there built this now out of production kit and still has the plans that came with it? If so can you send me a copy, I'll pay the copying and postage costs, or can you send scans of the plans?. The interweb has yielded a set of lines and I think I can get them into scale, having found the basic dimensions of the boat, but the actual plans might yield information to ease the build. Either way I hope to produce a
    build blog
    along the way - but I've set out to do that before and failed on a Type 21 frigate HMS Active built from scratch, got carried away building the boat. Thanks in advance Graham 'smiggy'
    5 years ago by smiggy
    Response
    Crack in seam Repaired!
    Ed, Good for you, you never know with leaks, gets tricky sometime. Your experience is a good reminder for me to test prior to getting all the electronics in. I usually I am so anxious to button up things that I forget to test. Will add that to my list on my current
    build blog
    . Thanks, Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    After completing the cowl, turned to the rear structure covering the gas turbine and other engine spaces. This can readily be made from styrene sheet. The sides and top were cut out, reinforced with β€œL” shaped angle and fitted together with CA glue. No particular challenges, other than determining where the various section transitions occur. Luckily had two different sets of plans to compare, so the nuances could be established. It was not until the rear structure was fitted into the cowl, the assembly fitted to the removable deck and placed on the hull, realized just how important this milestone was. Once everything is firmly located the accuracy of build becomes readily apparent. Any inaccuracies show up as an obvious misalignment. Was able to check the alignments and squareness using eye, rules, squares and a spirit level and was pleased with the outcome. A subtle sanding of about .020” off the base of one side of the superstructure and everything became square, parallel and correctly aligned. Quite a relief! Have always stressed the importance of accuracy throughout a build. This supported that recommendation. Once the superstructure was completed realized my plan to lift the deck off to gain access to the electrical control switches was impractical. Have thus cut a small access hole in the rear deck to facilitate access. Still undecided how to best disguise the hole, but at least access is now relatively easy. From now on, until the test program can be continued on the water, will add detail to the model. Doubt there will be much to describe is that of interest, or that has not been covered by others. Will continue this blog once there is anything significant to report. In the meantime, best wishes for Christmas and 2019,
    5 years ago by Rowen
    Forum
    Need HELP with my
    build blog
    Doug, Thank so much. it was right there in front of me, eyes aren't what they once were.... Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Need HELP with my
    build blog
    I just start my first
    build blog
    . When I added to it the second day I use,d the response button. That doesn't seem right. How do I continue to add to my blog daily? Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever
    build blog
    , bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Need HELP with my
    build blog
    Hi Joe, Use the yellow [Post New Build Update] button at the top of your Blog. Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Internal wiring & bottom skins
    There's plenty of access to fit the rudder tube at this stage because the deck skins have not gone on yet, and I still have fairly nimble fingers πŸ–– 😜 I'm generally following the kit instructions but I have sufficient experience to 'plot my own course' and deviate from them to achieve the same or better result. A great deal of thought and forward planning goes on when I build anything so I don't usually 'paint myself into a corner' so to speak. Here's a 'sneaky peek' (see pics) at the rudder and servo location that I'll cover in detail in the blog shortly. Happy Crimbo to you and yours πŸŽ„ πŸŽ… ⛄️ Robbob.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' πŸ˜‰ Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddleπŸ€” 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. πŸ˜‰ 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboardπŸ˜‰) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in
    build blog
    s on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Sailing Barge plans help
    Hi Joe, Just happened to be trolling by the computer when it honked! 😁 Glad it was useful, don't forget the
    build blog
    πŸ˜‰ Have fun, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' πŸ‘ When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Hi Doug, Thanks for the links, just watch your YouTube clips and she runs lovely. I’ve seen that a lot of people have used those Turnigy motors so I might try one of them on my next build. I’ll read the blog over the next few days. What did you think if the kit as a whole to build, only asking as me and my sister have just purchased the Fire Crash Tender for our Father for Chrimbo. Thanks for all your tips, it’s much appreciated. I might try and get some clips of the classic over Gorleston pond today if the weather permits lol. Cheers πŸ˜‰
    5 years ago by Sifi70
    Forum
    Photos
    Afternoon Carpcruncher, Start by going to
    build blog
    . Then Click on it, Next. Click on Start your
    build blog
    . There you will have a screen opened up. Which you can then give a title and also upload you picture(s)! Then Post your Blog! Cheers, Ed
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Assembling the keel & adding bulkhead formers.
    Now Plank on frame really sets my imagination going, I have to say that i am a builder rather than a sailor and get immense pleasure from problem solving and just creating structures. I will be looking for a suitable subject after the Crash Tender which at the moment is taking some time with fiddly bits that don't seem to advance the the overall vision of the project so apologies for the lack of "blog" Any suggestions?
    5 years ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    Hi, Great
    build blog
    for Mascotte, and a fabulous end product! Harking way back if I can, to the sail control for Mascotte. I am about to embark on a build of Cariad (or at least a pilot cutter similar to Cariad ). I'm trying to figure out the sail control for the two foresails. The front one overlaps the second, how did you get one to move over the other when tacking? A fellow club member has successfully built a spinnaker control for an IOM which has some of the features needed - treating the front sail as a spinnaker. But i'm open to any ideas. Sam
    5 years ago by sam
    Response
    Davits and falls
    Evenin' Norm, Welcome backπŸ‘ How's it going? Have missed your
    build blog
    ! 😭 Don't think this will answer your question but I thought you might find it interesting and useful for other details. A 'know your ship' video πŸ˜‰ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHYXyOzPYlo Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Mornin' Toby, I'm back😁 Pardon the delay, just finished tidying up the wiring and final running tests on Colin's Taycol Supermarine motor and converter board - to make it run off a standard brushed ESC! The rivets look greatπŸ‘ and the last pic was much better as well😊 Soooo many rivets 😲 guess you have to do them in batches, and then go pull up a tree or something, or you'd go doolally 😑 And I thought I was patient doing all the portholes and stanchions on my 4' 6" 1936 destroyer - that was ONLY hundreds! Rivets? Didn't even contemplate that!! I think you should continue this in a proper
    build blog
    - there's lotsa good stuff you're doing hereπŸ‘ And at the end you can make a pdf file of the whole story with just a few clicksπŸ˜‰ Be a nice mementoπŸ‘ Look forward to the Launch Report. During my career I attended the launches of several naval ships I had worked on,designing the COMMS systems. The funniest one was a glass fibre minehunter at the intermarine yard in italy near La Spezia. The ship was still in dry dock, like a huge bath. They turned on the 'taps' and slowly up came the ship! Keep up the good work, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; were you sitting on the saw to help keep awake? 😁😁
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Hi Toby, Why don't you make a
    build blog
    . Of your Build of the S S Hunan! I'm sure others would like to see what your up to! And see how you go about the build of your model! Cheers, Ed
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Proboat Sonicwake
    Odd sort of 'Build' blog Boaty! Be better placed in your Boat Harbour perhaps!πŸ˜‰ Doug
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Building my Carina sailboat from scratch
    Sehr gut gemacht Helmut, Hut abπŸ‘ Du kΓΆnntest im Rubrik '
    build blog
    s' weiter machen, siehe links auf den Homepage. Click drauf und dann auf 'Start Your
    build blog
    ' oben links oder rechts. Freue mich schon auf den nÀchsten 'Ausgabe'. Alles gute, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS M.33
    ... and then start the
    build blog
    Steve πŸ˜πŸ‘ Bon chance, Doug
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Doug re Snowberry build and conversion etc. here is a load of stuff to look at that might help. More if you Google HMCS Snowberry. I read a couple of the R/C conversion ones and a
    build blog
    awhile ago.πŸ‘ . Pretty comprehensive. You can have fun reading them all picking out what you find useful. Good luck Mon ami . https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=HMCS+Snowberry+RC+conversion&oq=HMCS+Snowberry+RC+conversion&aqs=chrome..69i57.61585j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ˜²
    5 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Great! Very glad it worked outπŸ‘ Where there's a will ....! Don't forget to share your build with us in a Blog 😊 All the best, Doug 😎 PS if you like the result please Like the post! 😁
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS M.33
    Good luck Steve, Know exactly what you mean about both biting the bullet (Deans kit prices!) and space! Earlier this year I bought the Deans kit for HMS Manxman, one of the Abdiel class fast Minelayer / Cruisers. Had been fascinated by this ship since I built the Airfix 1/600 version as a kid and read about her history on the Malta resupply runs and minelaying at Genoa, where I have recently worked with the Fincantieri shipyard. She's my main winter project,WHEN I have some bench space available, she's about 1.5m LoA!! I must say though, the kits aren't cheap but pretty comprehensive 😊 some fettling of the fittings seem to be necessary though. Bon chance with your Monitor, interesting subject πŸ‘ Look forward to your
    build blog
    . Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Search light
    A small tip and word to the wise Michael, When I take shots for posting I first load 'em to the PC and view in full size before going any further. If there's anything wrong I can reshoot before carrying on, either with the assembly or the post. Doesn't always work out that way, depends on how carried away I am with the job in hand 😁 'The word' πŸ˜‰If you can try to get the photos in proper relation to the horizontal and vertical. You're making some of us seasick! 🀐😱😲 Nevertheless, very nice work, Hat Off Sir πŸ‘ The comment from Robbob (King of the Crash Tenders) is praise indeed. I once spent an entire afternoon reading his astounding
    build blog
    and picking up tips. I just got 'hooked' 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Landing Ship Tanks (WW2)
    Good evening Nerys, Take a shufti here, there's 'undreds!!! πŸ˜‰ https://www.google.com/search?q=LST+plans&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=VilY5a4R3ax8cM%253A%252CIsDc3rWPhx_NjM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kRAX7XSZiE4c0sAoZChjECmqj9XEw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjK4-TDs7HeAhVJzqQKHdEtBpgQ9QEwA3oECAIQCg#imgrc=VilY5a4R3ax8cM: Great motivationπŸ‘ Looking forward to your
    build blog
    . All the best, Doug 😎 PS; in the nineties I worked on a COMMS system upgrade on one of these Newport class LSTs sold to the Brazilian Navy. Great fun, I came out of a gangway from the COMMS Office a bit too quick and damn nearly fell into the well deck. A huge 'swimming pool in the middle of the ship 😲 Follow up re LST 368 πŸ˜‰ https://www.navsource.org/archives/10/16/160368.htm Pic 1; Newport class Pic 2; your Dad's ship at Normandy, Pic 4; Loading for Anzio, Pic 3; Unloading at Anzio. Photo loading on the site is messing me about!😑
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than Β£50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)
    6 years ago by teejay
    Response
    welding
    This is like Cammel Laird in miniature - Brilliant πŸ‘ Gonna weigh a ton though 😲 Look forward to the
    build blog
    of the transporter / launcher 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    S 100 Schnellboot RC build
    I really like your schenllboot and I hope you get the same satisfaction as I am getting, I have building the same kit for the last year and a bit , and the support on this site is tremendous, as well as the tips and methods in the blogs and posts . I think I would have be lost without the members help, so keep at PS the boat looks really good
    6 years ago by teejay
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening. Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated. This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component. Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. if the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted. Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable. Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill! Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime! Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic
    build blog
    s to advise progress.
    6 years ago by Rowen


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy