Blog

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works

Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Elizabeth

After a long lay-off, not requested or wanted. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth. She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then planked the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper.. The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up but the keel and are 5mm ply. Chines are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.

6 years ago by muddy

Response

Hull progressing nicely!

I hate the idea of having to shape the balsa front ends. I have in the past re cut the bottom skins on 1/16th marine ply and steamed and pinned with small brass nails. But if that model is all balsa you couldn't do that but if the are ply and chine stringers then it is possible.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Response

Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen

Titebond 3 is a high performance PVA. We can't get Titebond 3 here in South Africa. Gorilla/Gator glue you which is a polyurethane based glue have to Work using Rubber Gloves and have a bottle of rubbing Alcohol handy as it sticks like mad and you won't be able to get it off your hands. I still have Cascamite! Been using a Sika PVA adhesive but the bulwarks were fitted with ZAP 30 minute Epoxy. I have found an eight hour epoxy to fix the stringers to the with with. Why is it we make short worktime adhesives is beyond me. I have always found that the quickset glues are prone to be brittle. The only one I haven't found to be brittle is ZAP. Going to epoxy the inside of the boat before fitting the skins

5 years ago by Ianh

Blog

Sports cruiser ''ALI''

Started this sports cruiser 2 days ago. Here we dont have balsa so im using whats available. I hsed ply for my keel and . Ply doesnt work great with ca glue, but its okay. I will use pvc for the planking. I hope i will get some ideas and you will fix me whereverim wrong.

5 years ago by Sakibian

Forum

Sea Queen Frames

"Well I sent him an ebay msg expressing how displeased I was with the quality of his High Standard drawings and he said send them back for a full refund , so thats fair enough I suppose. its just a shame that a lot more people will also fall for the same thing ." I do not publish plans of the Aerokits boats on my website, because they are still under copyright and being sold commercially, so I wonder if these plans are being sold legally under license or not? The fact that the are badly drawn suggests the latter.... Providing a complete refund minimises the risk of you leaving bad feedback - which is the only thing these sellers are scared of.

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Stern & keel formers

I have found as you have that gluing your abrasive paper to a wooden block is far better than wrapping and making sure all the and other skin supports are at the correct angle can make a real difference to the line of the hull, only noticeable when looking down the length of the hull when painted and that's too late to change things. I also make a number of different shaped sanding blocks/sticks down to using the coffee sticks with abrasives stuck to then for getting into difficult areas.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Scratch built yacht.

I am thinking of building a new sailing yacht from plans which I have yet to acquire. I have 8 A4 pages of drawings of a Goth-USOM from Frank Russell 2014, not sure where I got them from and if they are worthy of the time and effort. The size is about right at 1000mm length and about 1500mm deck to masthead. I have had dealings with Nylet in the past and am sure they would be helpful for rigging, sails etc. I plan to plank build the hull onto wooden . Although I have built several model boat hulls using this method before I wonder if I could enlist some help or recommendations from any other members of this group ie choice of plans, how to do it books. Many thanks Chris G

5 years ago by ChrisG

Blog

Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen

I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other . A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

6 years ago by Ianh

Blog

Assemble the hull

The Bulwarks were out in place on the jig and glued with ZAP 30 minute epoxy. I used the cabin sides to align the . By the way Clamps you will need a lot of these

6 years ago by Ianh

Blog

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!

This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😤 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the , stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. 🤔 Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🤐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

welding

I really like your approach to the assembly using a jig to ensure squareness and consistency with the . its looking good keep it up

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Gelyce class ''Islay''

Hi, many years ago I was approached by the man who ran the Chateau Margot delicious wine factory to make a model of Water Pipit, one of the smaller Gelyce class yacht tenders built by Camper and Nicholson. They di some at 50 foot and a few at 38 foot. Currently out there and nicely restored is Islay, which I think may be Water Pipet in a later itteration, since it was once restored and subsequently neglected by Ugo Baravalle, at the time Italy's 5th richest man and a gent who actually offered to show me round his vast collection on Elba very graciously. I never heard from the wine mazn again and so couldn't tap him for a deposit to finance the trip to Italy. Project cancelled, Baravalle apologised to, life went on. Now, I find I would rather like to do the model for myself, with all the lovely golden interior work. To do this, the construction would have to be more like the original steamed timbers and double diagonal planking, rather than my usual 3mm ply . So, my question is...has anyone ever built a hull in this way, as a shell, more than a glorified Aerokits/Veron kit? I haven't, so I'm looking for any hints, tricks, warnings you may have. Here's the boat. You can see the appeal. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

The first pic that Green has posted, does show a 'Schottel' drive unit at the left of the plan, no wonder he is confused.

6 years ago by Kipper

Forum

I have hopefully posted photos of stern/bow shape of + side view of the hull. there are 20 frames in the hull. how can I install x2 graupner schottel [2335] at the bow. I will have to leave out the keel under hull. thankyou Green. the plans are 1/50th scale.

6 years ago by green72west

Forum

Bending thin plywood

Slightly more comfortable - The bending is done simply by soaking in hot water for 10 - 15 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin/circular object and left a couple of days to dry. The skins must be absolutely dry before fitting as further drying out when glued to the will twist the whole hull.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

The plan at the top of the thread shows a specific Water Tractor tug plan specifically designed for the VS drives, including the large straight keel at the stern. I suggest Green72West should either use VS drives or use another type of hull for Schottel drives.

6 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Hi Gerd, it's not my plan! The plan is from 'green72west' who started this thread and seems to be confusing Schottel and Voith-Schneider. Either that or he wants to use two Z-Drives instead of the Voith drives. His intention is not clear. Either way he doesn't need to cut chunks out of the keel, that's nuts😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hi Doug Your plan show a Voith-Schneider-Propeller

6 years ago by Dampfgerd

Forum

Hi Haig, seems to be a common mistake to get Schottel Drives (Z-Drives) and Voith - Schneider confused with one another! First two pics show a twin Voith propeller on a tug hull (as on the plan above) and the operating principle. 3rd pic is cross section of the Z-Drive as produced by the Schottel company. it is a 360° rotating 'pod'. Newer versions have electric motors built into the pod and don't need the mechanical Z transmission from inside the hull. With such pods under bow and stern even bow and stern side thrusters are redundant 😊 4th pic is the Graupner version, Mk II. https://www.graupner.com/Schottel-Drive-II-new-version-/2335/ Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Why do you need Schottel drives? The Voith Schneider drives in that configuration can move the boat in any direction? Schottel drives will require fairly big penetrations through the hull, and apart from the installation complications, should (in my opinion) be unnecessary. This is a link to a fairly comprehensive brochure with photos of the real thing that will help in understanding the concept etc. http://www.gemimanevrasi.com/Tug_Boat_Technology/Voith%20Water%20Tractor.pdf

6 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Bauer- Voith-Schneider-Propeller https://www.bauer-modelle.com/Voith-Schneider-Propeller-VSP-65BM-mit-Brushlessmotor

6 years ago by Dampfgerd

Response

Pilot Boat

Hi Mike. The are all slotted as is the keel. The front of the keel is also located in a slot in the base board and so therefore all of the are automatically held square in both directions. it has been glued and on a trial run, the skins fit well. I have been as careful as possible. The manufacturer has thought about assembly. The jig is not card. it is a strong sheet of 3mm Depron. if you see the picture above, you can see the slots for the and the centre front slot for the keel. it does seem to keep everything in place very well.😊 I am going to try to fit the skins tomorrow. I wll report back if I don`t do myself an injury trying.🤓

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Pilot Boat

Is there anything that holds the at 90 degrees to the base? I assume you fastened this base card template flat to a wooden building board otherwise there is a danger that the could be out of true hence my comment - at 90 degrees. its also important that it stays in the jig while the skins are applied. is the structure already glued? as my comments may be too late

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Pilot Boat

looking at the I would suggest that the structure is meant to be built upside down on a building board. Each bulkhead should be fastened to a piece of 12mm sq timber then fasten to the base board at the appropriate spacing keeping them upright and square, then the keel can be glued in place followed by the chines keeping all the structure square and true. Just a thought. Ill post a picture of a similar vessel I am building at present in this way, but will be tomorrow.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

tugboat keel

Frames! Or when they are solid across the hull Mr Green.😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Deans Robert E. Perry Libertyship

Hi I inherited one of theses kit's some years back, when I had a word with Ron he said that it must have been one of his early kit's as it said I need to put in to stiffen up the hull. The one that I have has a white metal off set rudder ie the top half of the rudder is just off central, was this to stop any torque from the single prop? I look forward to your build blog as in time I am hoping to get mine finished and will name her "Jack McCann" as that is the name of my late friend.

6 years ago by Fred

Blog

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 4

Finished gluing in stringers a total of 8 in all, started profiling stringers and rudder and stern tube (prop shaft ) supports. An important piece of advice from my Dad is to "make sure every thing is fair to the eye." Meaning it must look straight or the curves must flow, no kinks or unsightly lines. Thus some of my frames had to be adjusted by perhaps padding out or moving the position of the stringer in the frame. Added gluing supports around the and other frames this is to support the 0.7mm ply joints until I get to the Bow when I intend to use small strips of ply or wood.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

Exciters/transducers

Hi Neville, The largest open area between or stiffeners is the main criterion, not nessa-celery the thickness! BTW: What is the vessel anyway?? Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 1

I was just looking at how you had transferred the plans to your wood, I have just done this with a small cabin cruiser but found that photocopying the plan and then pasting them to the wood caused some stretching of the paper and subsequently the dimensions of the . So I tried another method which was photocopying onto A4 sticky labels and then its just peel and stick. As a returner to modeling after 50 years this is the first time I have encountered this (I used to cut the plans up for aeroplanes as a teenager!), has anybody got any better ideas?

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 2

Finish of frame cutting, some left as solid . Added frames to base board Cut extra patterns for bow shape both side and deck profiles (minus 6mm stringers) transom set at 12 degrees.

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration

First five pics show 'square one'. 😲 Dave_M reckoned she'd been plastered not painted.😁 Before attempting to strip the hull I figured I had better stabilise it so it wouldn't fall apart when I removed about 1mm of ancient paint. So I applied a couple of layers of resin and FG tissue inside. Pic 6. Not so easy between those somewhat rustically built ! They weren't even shaped so that the planking fitted properly! Sanding was obviously out of the question so out came the heat gun. On medium heat (ca 300°C) about four layers of paint started to bubble up and fly off, gently persuaded with a not too sharp 3/4" wood chisel. Pics 7 to 10 show the results; almost more filler than wood and Horrors! Upper Stern / gunwhale made from a chunk of thick cardboard cut from a 3M sticky tape reel 😡 This was promptly replaced with a carved chunk of hard balsa. Pic 11. I will later add a mahogany step deck on top of the block, and a mahogany cap rail to finish off the hull. Last two pics show current status after filling, sanding and applying a coat of EzeKote to the outside. Shame the woodwork was so bad, she might have looked quite nice with the wood cleaned up and varnished 🤔 In between these jobs I also stripped and EzeKoted and primer/filled the hull of the PTB I'm renovating as well. Saves getting the same tools and materials out twice😉 But that's another B....log! As Bamber Gascoigne (What a moniker😁) used to say "I've started - so I'll finish"!! Oops! Forgot the last pics🤔 Last three are today's status 😁

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Fibreglass hull/deck fit

IF that deck WAS intended for that hull I would have started by measuring the deck beam at several strategic points and glued (epoxy) cross beams, or even full or half where necessary to keep the hull fall right, into the hull at corresponding positions. Holding the lot together with wood cramps until good an' hard. If you get the measurements and cutting right the deck should fit like a glove. That's what we do to get things to fit right in 'Plastic Magic' kit conversions. That's also the method recommended by Deans Marine for the 1/96 53" HMS Manxman kit I bought from them. Download the build instructions from their site and you'll see exactly what I mean. Most (if not all) FG hulls will tend to sag outwards a bit after curing and release. My Fleetscale 1/72 destroyer hull was just the same. Good luck whatever you try. I can't believe that it is necessary to cut a deck down the middle. 😲 It helps if you warm the hull in hot water (not boiling or too hot for the hands!😡) to make it more flexible and amenable 😉 while fitting the beams and . Good luck, post some pics of your progress 👍 BTW: What's the model of?? Cheers, Doug😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER

Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width . Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without . First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute

Agreed Ron, that keel joint definitely needs some reinforcement👍 Personally I would do the same between all the to give the last plank something to sit on and strengthen the whole shebang. Actually it should be the first plank; start at the keel and work up on alternate sides. 👍 BTW Richard, if you buy a 68cm battery you'll have to build a half full size boat 😉😁 Also, when cutting the planks try to make sure that you don't have short pieces at the stern. They will be harder to keep in place than longer chunks and won't take the hull shape properly and smoothly. Try to keep the joints somewhere in the mid section where the hull is flatter and the joints are under less stress BUT not one above the other, stagger them at least one bulkhead from plank to plank. If you don't get on with the bender (and the hull will be painted and not varnished) you could cheat a little (we all do it when it suits😊) and glue balsa blocks around the stern and carve and sand to fit. @ Frodo, this was originally your thread 😲 - hope you are following and all this helps you as well!? Best of luck to you both, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER

My only experience of a vacuum formed hull was a slightly smaller Tyne class lifeboat. Was satisfied with it, but glass fibre seems more robust, stiffer and stronger. Imagine a Vac formed hull will need full size stiffening , which can be avoided with the GF version. Weight is very much a concern on this model and whilst Vac formed is probably lighter, this advantage may be offset by the additional structure.

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Hull identity????

Well I've been trying to sort out my storage areas and found this Hull, but have no idea what type of vessel it is? I was given it many years ago and had forgotten it was in my collection, so I'm appealing for help in deciding what to make with it. It's 36" long with 8" beam. I've never worked with a molded plastic hull before so I'd appreciate any instructions in how to proceed and how to fix frames and . I'd like to use either 6 or 12 volts as I have a decaperm and a hectoperm motor to choose from, and a good selection of batteries to choose from. Hopefully Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Directory

(Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D

1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. it took 3.5 years. Plywood , pine stringers & balsawood planking, then fibreglassed. Superstructure balsawood. Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah. 6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is Futaba 2.4 GHz (Motor: Graupner 700BB 12V) (ESC: MTroniks 30A Tio x 2) (9/10)

6 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Wianno Senior

in place.

6 years ago by Ronald

Response

Cabin detail Pt 1

I'll second that 👍👍👍 Lucky you didn't use the 'black' sand paper wet! I did once and it permanently stained the wood black, not just surface effect 😡 Since then I only use dry cabinet paper for finishing raw wood in sensitive areas. With your extended I'm wondering where you are going to fit 'the works'! Or is this to be a static display model? Whatever, beautiful woodwork, salutations, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Side skins

To enable ease of application of the side skins I decided to raise the building board up to 45 degrees, this allows a better view of the proposed joints Before fitting the bottom skins the side skins have to be trimmed back to the stringers and deck line again using a red pencil to show how much material is being removed as I approach the stringers with the plane. Having done that little job it’s time to shape the skin. I followed the same procedure as I did with the side skins. Again after some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve. At this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve and also trim the cut-out where the skin joins with a butt joint as opposed to the overlap from bow to stern, this is all done prior to bending. Notice the steel shim protecting the chine from being cut as the bottom skin is trimmed for the overlap of the side skin. The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable size paint tin and left overnight to dry. I first pinned the stern end dry and then epoxied the bow area then followed by more epoxy and progressive pinning towards the stern using brass pins into the and smaller pins along the overlap which will be removed when the joint is dry. I made a tempory clamping arrangement at th bow by pinning some scrap ply to the top beck atea to enable clamps to be used, notice the use of a mirror to be able to make sure the joint had come together

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Trimming the stringers

Before fitting the skins the chine and gunwhale stringers have to be trimmed to the profile of the , this is a time consuming job but is essential to get correct to ensure a good fit of the skins. Also final trimming of the bow k1,2,3 needs to be done now that they are fitted and “a virtual line can be drawn” to show where the skin will eventually sit flush. Using a red pencil to show how close to each bulkhead you have trimmed is a good guide’

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

1st Gunwhale stringers

This boat looks like it will be very heavy using those plywood .

6 years ago by Ronald

Blog

2nd Gunwhale stringers

Now for the more difficult stringer, this one has already been steamed and set in the jig. The outer stringer has to be put on using glue only and clamps, so no nails at all since it has to shaped to the profile of the over its entire length hopefully using a jack plane (which don’t like nails). Clamps at the ready and glue in hand and away we go,

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

1st Gunwhale stringers

First job is to trim all the bulkhead corners so the stringers sit flat against each bulkhead. We can then start to trial fit each side to see what sort of curvature will be needed to steam the stringers prior to final fitting. I decide to make a jig for the stringers to “set” after steaming, I made this jig to accommodate all 4 stringers creating the same curvature, as the minor differences in curve will be flattened out during the clamping process. I used a domestic wallpaper steamer/striper and a piece of 4” plastic drain pipe blocked at both ends with a piece of cloth and steamed for about 20 minutes. The 4 stringers were then placed in the jig and locked into place with wedges and clamps. These were then left for a couple of days to thoroughly dry out After steaming and setting, the stringers were dry pinned to the breast hook on both sides with brass pins, then followed back to the stern drilling and pinning to each stringer to the as I went back. Being satisfied with the fit I now removed all the pins and started again from the front and epoxied and pinned each bulkhead on both sides.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Cabin sides and deck supports

Just a thought mate, when you have completed the etc, before fitting the skins, seal the wood with something like Zpoxy, this will make it easier when sealing the rest of the hull. Mark

6 years ago by jarvo

Blog

Cabin sides and deck supports

Before we continue I must mention some fine detail that should have been mentioned in the previous build update and that is the preparation of the cabin sides. Because the bow end of the cabin sides narrow there is a need to score/cut through partially in the places indicated in the build instructions, this is around the cabin side window and enables the side to bend without cracking the external faces, and this also applies to the rear of the cabin sides where it joins B5. The cabin side extensions can also be glued into position as well To continue, having secured all the to the keel I can now epoxy the cabin sides to the ensuring that the height is maintained side to side and bends smoothly round to the bow and stern. Allowing this to set for a couple of hours I can fit the deck stringers from ¼ x ⅛. These are cut to length to suite the gaps between the and glued in place using aliphatic resin glue. I also added some extra support where the cabin side extensions are since its only a butt joint.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

deck planks

I was not happy with the hull after finishing the plating. The flat sides very wobbly, & lots of runs & lumps of solder. So I removed the internal supports & the top strake up to it curved. Replaced top strake with 3mm ply fitted new & top frame. I started to sand off the excess solder would have taken for ever. Then I remembered seeing my father wipe a lead joint, that was when water pipes where lead. I didn't have a tallow cloth so I took lard from the kitchen. Heat a small section with a pencil blow torch & wipe it clean. All done in 10mins. Glued the plank made before to the sub deck. With a home made gauge mark 3/8th in this will form the scuppers.

6 years ago by hammer

Forum

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded

My friend bought this sailboat build in 1996 along with 15 other boats at Port Credit, Ontario. My friend Ewald Bengel and his brother Fred, bought the sailboat with R/C equipped, but older Futaba AM but usable. The boat needed structural reinforcements, several new , R/R rudder block and repair the rudder. They are not racing the boat intending to keep it at their summer home on the lake. They had me add a Birch plywood deck and hatchway. Progress is being made.

6 years ago by Ronald

Response

More

Ah...I see what you are trying to achieve now, I've never seen that done but that's not to say it isn't possible so if you think you can engineer it...why not 😜👍. Rob.

6 years ago by robbob