Forum

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby'

More photos would help in particular the keel. Can you identify which parts of the keel are lead? if you can then you could just drill holes into it (as close to rear as possible) to reduce its weight. Keep drilling and doing tests until you are happy then leave it to dry out before filling the holes with car body filler.

6 years ago by steve-d

Directory

(Other) ILLINI SPIRIT

DUMAS 1:96 GREAT LAKES FREIGHTER KIT; GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE PAINT SCHEME. MY THIRD BOAT TO JOIN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET. DECKED WITH 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING, BOTTOM REINFORCED WITH A 3/8" LAM SPRUCE BOARD (ALSO PROTECTS THE PVC BOTTOM FROM ROCKS & ADDS ). FEATURES A RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL AND A RABOESCH 22MM 7.2V BOW THRUSTER FOR DOCKING/MANEUVERING. LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND STATIC BRASS RADAR ARRAYS. NICE PVC SHEETING ON WOOD FRAME KIT, THE ONLY REAL CHALLENGE WAS THE STERN SECTION SHEER CONSTRUCTION, BUT THAT'S WHAT PUTTY'S FOR, RIGHT? (Motor: 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V) (ESC: DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V) (8/10)

7 years ago by circle43nautical

Forum

Brixham trawler IBEX

A detachable bulb keel will result in a more stable sailing experience. The further away the weight is from the centre of the better.

7 years ago by cenbeth

Blog

DAMEN STAN 4207

Am building this model to replicate HMCC Vigilant. Up until now have found that this vessel and the hull of the standard Damen Stan 4207 production similar, so the Damen drawings have worked well. Moving to the superstructure this is not the case, whilst the two vessels are broadly similar, there are many differences. The photos available on the internet enable these to be identified, but the pictures kindly sent by Liverpool Maritime Museum proved enormously vaulable. These were so good that dimensions could be scaled off to help replicate details. The Canadian Hero class tends more towards the Damen standard, although have many pictures of this they confirm the drawing details. Started on the superstructure, using styrene as it is light and easy to work. The structure is now virtually complete, built from a combination of styrene sheet, strip and wood strip. Made the bridge and mast structure removable from the lower portion to assist any future repairs and to add interior detail. The mast was a particular challenge as it is quite complex. With the objective of reducing weight and thus heeling moment, made this from styrene tube. This material is easy to work, but an extra wire for the light grounds becomes necessary. Fitted a common ground using a bare wire with the various negative LED terminals soldered to it. The positive feeds are all individual and will need to connect beneath the bridge deck to install the correct LED & resistor combinations. All the wires were passed inside the mast legs. Hope to never replace a LED, that will be a real joy! So far, the weigh of the superstructure (less final wiring, glazing, paint and detail) is 14 oz. This should allow the model to be completed at around the 9lbs total, the target established from the earlier tests.

7 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Ship Plans

I googled the ship and the details you already have are easily available. The owner, builder etc info is available if you register with the site. Once you know who you will need to make contact as Haverlock advised. Depending on the scale detail you require you may only need outline hull plan drawings with perhaps a side view to add the superstructure. Looks an interesting model. Ballast will be a major problem. I have built several large models and now consider the best solution is to make a sealed fore and aft section with the centre being open. The is only provided by the fore and aft sections. I need 50Kg of lead in my 9' Olympic and I suspect you would be looking at possibly much more in this model. I take the view that I am not carrying any cargo so don't need the hull capacity. Once on the water the model will look correct and be easily transportable. Good luck with your search. A build blog would be very welcome. Dave 😀

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Sailing a straight line

If your looking to go the HiTEC route get a pixhawk! https://pixhawk.org/modules/pixhawk it is your choice as to which one you buy BUT clones are available from ebay. I offer one of these as a solution because it is possibly the most capable of all the autopilot systems. it is the core of autonomous vehicles in many hobby spheres. You can set it to hold a heading. it has GPS and magnetic compass capability. Youtube has many many videos on this beast. Having had time to think ( always a dangerous situation) Try adding a weight to front of the boat and see effect pls. I am thinking the problem has to be a combination of thrust lines, CofG, and centre of . A radical change of the CofG should change the behaviour of the boat ( for better or worse ) seeing the effect of such a change could indicate way to go .

8 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

newbie boat id question

The Speedline CR1700 is powered but a 1700kv outrunner brushless motor fed from Lipo 3cell battery and a Fusion Hawk 50amp ESC. additional was fitted in case of accidents. With that set up the performance is terrific and very stable

8 years ago by bluestreak505

Forum

Model Water Skier

HI all fly fishing line might be worth a try as the line dose seem to have some to it, and would look like rope.

9 years ago by Vickers1979

Forum

Aerokits sea scout hull skins

Ian If you can still get at the bow area, fill it with polystyrene packing foam. if its to late, do you know a builder? if he has used some spray sealing foam and has a bit left in the can, drill holes in the bulkhead and squirt the foam in. it will expand so don't seal the bulkhead again, let it settle, possibly 24 hours. If you seal the inside of the bows with resin before putting the foam in, even better, this will double the sealing and give as well. Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Directory

(Naval Ship) Bismarck

One of my First boat after regaining my interest in boating in 1980's. Very first was a Sea Hornet back in the '50s. Based my Bismarck on a 600th scale Airfix plastic kit, built it as a 1/200th stand off scale scratchbuild R/C, sailed well for many years, bravely sending her out in gale force winds, rarely took on any water even thought compared with today's model didn't have many if any aids, superstructure plug in, rather than onto deck. Unfortunately left in a shed that was unknown to me was leaking and rotted away the hull, so no more. (ESC: Bob's board) (4/10)

10 years ago by Peter47

Response

Stardust

HI thanks for the comments. No problems with only 6oz lead to bring her upright, a bit tender but will be adding a further 16 oz of ballast before next outing. She will weigh 18 lbs. transport is not a problem back seat of the car. Lifting and lowering into lake with two strops. This is not really a big model. I have one at 58 inches. We sail in several locations in Scarborough, North Yorkshire. My next model is already on the stocks and will be a jet boat a bit like a super doper cabin cruiser, own design and scratch built as per stardust. Regards jim

11 years ago by Chiefpurser

Response

Stardust

💭 Hi Chiefpurser, Stardust looks really good, did you have problems with , and how much does it weigh, how do you transport and launch such a big model? Looks a good pool, where do you sale?

11 years ago by seafarer

Blog

AmalfI - Mantua static wooden kit conversion

The kit was/is in-expensive and seemed to have possibilities as a small RC model. After obtaining the kit I did some basic calculations on (i.e. I weighed the boat and all the extra kit plus calculated simple volume of hull below waterline) to see if it would float with all the extra gear - although not a lot of freeboard it looked possible -especially if I increased the displacement a little. The plan was studied next to check on the practical side of conversion and getting everything to fit, while still keep the centre of gravity low and properly positioned along the keel - again it seemed to work. The keel was cut to accommodate the prop. tube and a small strip was added to the keel with skeg to take the rudder bottom bearing. Reinforcement was added to the sides of the keel where it was cut for the prop. shaft and rudder tube and the frames adjusted to fit. The rudder assembly was made and fitted in front of the transom - allowing for servo pushrods to operate it without interference of the frames, holes in the transom or the deck. All the frames had to but cut with lightening holes and also to provide much needed access/space for the motor, batteries, servo, ESC, switch and receiver. Additional strips were added to the rear frame bottom edges to (marginally) increase the displacement when the skin was added by making them deeper below the waterline.

11 years ago by CapnJim

Blog

8 Dec 2007

The hull was trimmed to the correct height and some spacers to get the correct width. I decided to fit two bulkheads in the boat the front to form a watertight compartment for . Also to enable me to fit the side decks the rear one is required for the well deck it also helps align the side decks as there is a straight line between the two. The running gear was adapted from some I got hold of, but it would have been quicker if I had started from scratch, the skeg bracket was silver soldered on, then a plate was soft soldered on. I tend to make a template out of wood or styrene to give an idea on where the prop which is a prop shop 25mm will finish and then a hole can be cut in the hull. I am going to strengthen the inside of the hull to enable me fit the rudder and motor in one, and I have found that this shape of hull with flat panels tend to move and as I am hoping to put a lot of power in the boat, and it may not be a good idea if it beds, the placement of the bulkhead will also help. 31% is the amount the plan had to be reduced from the 34" boat.

16 years ago by Peter HS93