|||
Not Registered
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
Cancel
Anytime
Β£2.50
Β£4.50
Β£6.50
Subscribe
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
For A Whole Year!
Β£25
Β£45
Β£65
Donate
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Download The App!

    Login To
    Remove Ads
    Login To
    Remove Ads

    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Search
    Search
    Response
    Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen
    Titebond 3 is a high performance PVA. We can't get Titebond 3 here in South Africa. Gorilla/Gator glue you which is a polyurethane based glue have to Work using Rubber Gloves and have a bottle of rubbing Alcohol handy as it sticks like mad and you won't be able to get it off your hands. I still have
    cascamite
    ! Been using a Sika PVA adhesive but the bulwarks were fitted with ZAP 30 minute Epoxy. I have found an eight hour epoxy to fix the stringers to the bulkheads with with. Why is it we make short worktime adhesives is beyond me. I have always found that the quickset glues are prone to be brittle. The only one I haven't found to be brittle is ZAP. Going to epoxy the inside of the boat before fitting the skins
    5 years ago by Ianh
    Response
    Cabin roof hatches
    Hi Boatshed, I have used
    cascamite
    on some of the older boat restorations, but they are mainly for display boats, but it's rather expensive for most modelling jobs, so now tend to stick to using epoxy and the best one in my humble opinion is from the poundland shop, it dries quite quickly and crystal clear, I've even replaced port holes glazing with it. (it features Tommy Walsh on the package.) Comes in a syringe, so really easy to use. Cheers Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Response
    Cabin roof hatches
    Many thanks for your reply on my question. I wasn't sure what it was. I am still wondering does any one still use
    cascamite
    . I have built several boats in years gone by with it. I am building an Aeronaut Classic at the moment and the glue that was recommended was Deluxe materials Speed Bond. in the instructions it doesn't state what glue to use, there is a small tube of glue with the kit but the instructions say about using dope to seal the wood it may melt the glue. Apart from that I'm far from happy with the way it is made. I would have been better off spending an extra Β£20 and getting a Sea hornet. I have had to go and buy another piece of sixteenth thick marine ply as the bottom skins do not fit the skeleton. I have used the Depron build sheet as well. I have never built a model on one of these in the past. I built a Sea Hornet in the early 70's and it's still in my shed and needs restoring, But she's still well solid. I'm not so sure that this Aeronaut Classic will stand the use and time that the Sea Hornet has. Has anyone else on here built one of these and found the same problem with it?
    5 years ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    A return to the hobby!
    Hello. I have a soft spot for Sea Commander, I built one somewhere around 1964/5 when I was 13 with the help of my brother in law. I enjoyed the build and painting and buying fittings with my pocket money. I remember the long drying time of
    cascamite
    wood glue! I think I had Frog petrol engine and Macgregor radio, all purchased from Roland Scot. After a couple of years I sold the boat and bought a new Moulton bicicle. I wish I still had both now
    6 years ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    wood glue
    I have just bought some
    cascamite
    from my local wood supplier today .
    6 years ago by dennisw
    Forum
    wood glue
    As I said Doug I could be wrong about the Spit. When I said was dad licensed I meant as a pilot😜
    cascamite
    was too brittle to use on metals anyway as was Araldite although it was actually used in some planes. Civvy jobs mostly I seem to remember. Fish glue Pooh. it certainly did but was actually quite a good glue.I think my teapot stand and toast rack were given to charity when mum passed away. They were made with fish glue joints and were still strong 50 yrs later.πŸ˜‰ Cheers John
    6 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    wood glue
    you can still get
    cascamite
    look on e.bay I don't no if you know that it was used to build the spitfire & the mosquito in 1944.
    6 years ago by dennisw
    Forum
    wood glue
    Is
    cascamite
    still suitable for model boating? Declan
    6 years ago by dpbarry
    Response
    Formers in-planking starts!
    Always good to hear of different makes of adhesive that others use. in a warm room most of these types of wood glue set very quickly to a hold state, developing full strength over 12 hours. A far cry from the days of
    cascamite
    ! which I recall seemed to take 24hrs, a lifetime when you are 5 years old.
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use
    cascamite
    glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks. Richard i am going to use Zap penit
    7 years ago by rmwall107
    Forum
    Glues and Hull protection
    cascamite
    . sometimes difficult to buy but definitely still a high quality glue, not so good on plastic / wood joints but wood alone it is superb. Modern glues will always have a place in the tool box, (horses for courses) Protecting your hull, wooden hulls coat inside and out with a runny resin then add glass cloth to the outer hull, I use .7oz cloth or a stocking, depends on the hull size, Mark
    6 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Glues and Hull protection
    Back in the good old days (30 / 40 years ago), one used
    cascamite
    (I still like it), but what does people use now ? Also what is used to protect inside and outside of ply hulls ?
    6 years ago by AndyG009
    Forum
    Sea Queen Water Line
    Andy The original model was produced in the early 1960s when IC engines were the norm and scale and RC for sailing models were in their early development stages. Supplies were limited and we made do with whatever was available. The plans were typically sheet on frame, probably plywood from an old tea chest and
    cascamite
    resin glue ( it was water proof and slow setting). The designer would suggest suitable wood to use but many chose to use what they could acquire and as a result the finished models often finished up heavy or very heavy. Coupled with the large IC engine and flywheel and large heavy RC escarpments and big drycell batteries, it is not surprising that the hulls sat well in the water. To the modellers of the period the waterline really didn't matter as we were after speed, control and endurance. This may explain why the early plans did not show a waterline, as in my experience the draught varied greatly between models. Today we have scale plans and supplies that allow us to build true replicas and all the important detail is a must for a true scale model. Personally as an ex flyer I try and build lite, bricks tend to fall or sink, and my Sea Queen rides high in the water with a slight bow up. A 42xx brushless and LiPo add little weight and I have two 8oz lumps of lead in the stern section to achieve this. If it looks right, sails well and you are happy, then enjoy your model.
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Waterproof glue
    I realise that this is probably (almost certainly!) going over old ground for the nth time, but my last wooden model was in the days of
    cascamite
    , and things appear to have moved on a tad since then so I need advise on which glue to use on my newly acquired Aeronaut Jenny. It says in the manual to use 'quick setting , waterproof, white glue' which sounds like a PVA glue to me but I could very easily be wrong. I would therefore be grateful for any advise going re types of glue, and their trade names, if possible. Thanks Chris
    7 years ago by octman
    Forum
    Waterproof glue
    Hi Chris. Like yours, my very first wooden boat was held together with
    cascamite
    . I'm very happy to recommend Titebond 2, it's an aliphatic resin that's waterproof, dries very quickly and forms a very strong bond on wood to wood joints. I have used it extensively in the construction of my crash tender project. The other glue I have used is Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy resin, great for wood to metal and various other materials. I hope that is helpful. Rob.
    7 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Bluebird K7
    I don't know if it help you but this is a very good glue. You don't have to mix it like epoxy glue's. it is waterproof I was recommended it for a boat build and found it to be fine. I have used all sorts in the past dating back to the 60's.
    cascamite
    , epoxy, even with my dad as a child we used the good old fashion smelly glue bead's. I still use them here and there. But we all have different idea's. Hope this helps.
    7 years ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug
    I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with
    cascamite
    ) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    water proofing
    Hi Colin I'm happy to see there's someone else how uses
    cascamite
    l thought l was the only one, everyone else seem to use PVA's. it is a great glue but not on wood that has been soaked in oil. Best of look with the restoration. Regards Dave
    7 years ago by EAGLE
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient.
    cascamite
    will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    water proofing
    i am going to try very thin
    cascamite
    . i read on a website this was a good method. I am no expert and will let you know the results when i try it.
    7 years ago by rmwall107
    Forum
    water proofing
    Hi Colin The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used
    cascamite
    glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😑. The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire. If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles. If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress. When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages. We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with Fiberglass cloth and poly layup resin. We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. if you send me a private message with your email address I will share. its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want. Have fun Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Solent lifeboat
    Hi Lee The original kit was produced in the 1960s when supplies were very sparse and the polyurethane was considered a good product to waterproof the hull and give a good finish. Wood is from a living tree and continues to dry out over many years. I built a Billing Mercantic plank on frame and used
    cascamite
    glue which produced a fine and waterproof hull. Some 30yrs later I found that the wood had split inside the glue line. I now cover all my hulls with fine glass cloth and layup resin. I also apply glass matting and layup resin to the inside of the hull. in the case of my mahogany planked schooner hull I left the outside covering but the inside is glass mat. It is sometime since I completed the hull on the Solent but I do know the wood is covered. I have tried different products over the years so I can't be sure what I used with the resin. The hull is 100% waterproof. My advice would be to use resin. Dave πŸ˜€
    8 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Ed. Had a bit of a disastrous day. Getting the boats ready for my weekly sail I broke the main mast on my yawl - my pride and joy! Showing my friend the progress on the pilot boat I noticed that I had not fitted one side properly. This was due to the shaping around the bow, so you are right to be concerned. I spent the morning unpicking the glue before it cured and making the best of a bad job by re sticking. Things couldn't get much worse when I ran out of glue before I finished. I hope I can redeem the situation! How I long for the old days of wooden construction when the bow was shaped out of a block of balsa and the plywood sides were steamed into shape before fixing them with
    cascamite
    and brass pins. I will let you know my progress but I wouldn't blame you if you decided not to go ahead. Steve
    8 years ago by cormorant
    Response
    46 Inch aerokits fire boat
    HI Whatsy Firstly welcome to the forum, much more hassle than cars!!!!! in your first post you mention hard resin on the waterline is that the grey stuff in pic 2? If so it looks like body filler, back in the 60s it set like stone, very difficult to sand!!!! It might have been built with
    cascamite
    , powdered resin glue mixed with water, again set like concrete. Like Shawn said, have a look at different forums, the basic colours were, Gloss red lower hull, Gloss Black upper hull, with a white waterline separating them. Wheel house and cabins were Gloss white. Some show decks as planked, some with Matt Grey. Long way to go but what a reward at the end Regards mark
    10 years ago by jarvo
    Response
    Part 2, huntsman restoration
    HI Dave and Graham, Yes the original build glue does seem like
    cascamite
    , but the shaft tube has been fitted using what I believe to be a polyester resin, as it softens with a little cellulose thinners and then scrapes away quite easily using a dentist's pick (which I find very useful modelling tools). Just a bit slow but wont damage structure this way as there is about 3 inches by about 1 inch of it to remove. Once out I will check shaft length and alignment and refit shaft tube with new bearings and make a new stainless shaft if needed. But won't be able to do anymore work on boat till Monday as this weekend I will be away collecting our new puppy from my sisters near Bath, Won't be back till late Sunday. Will add more pictures and news as it happens next week. By for now Thanks Colin.
    12 years ago by Colin H
    Response
    Part 2, huntsman restoration
    HI Colin Whilst I would agree that gentle heat will help with some resins I suspect your boat was built with
    cascamite
    , an aliphatic resin. This dries rock hard and unlike some two part resins will not soften with heat.
    12 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    NewBe Help Needed - Noisy Motor Arrangement
    HI Neil Seen the video and the advice given is spot on. Motor mount: I can not deduce from the video if this is the cause of the binding. if you remove the motor mount and try running the motor whilst holding in you fingers you will feel any vibration and by moving the motor should achieve the best position. As mentioned on your video post using a low voltage and ammeter can help with this process. if this is your problem then you need to chop some more wood away from the mounting until you can get the same result with the motor mount connected. if this solves the problem then you need look no further, if not: I suggest you remove the shaft and motor and look carefully at the bearings. Its possible that the new shaft is too tight a fit on your old bearings. The video indicates some friction as the motor doesn't start very smoothly. Your prop and shaft should spin quite freely with no tight spots. if it is tight you may be able to use the threaded part of you new shaft to gently ream out the bearing. Do this one at a time with the shaft in the tube and pushing horizontally until you clear the high spots. A little oil will help. If on the other hand you can see or feel any play they do need replacing. You mention you have replaced the prop shaft. Did yo by chance buy a prop shaft and tube with bearings? if so you will already have all you need. The actual bearings are a push fit into the ends of the prop shafts, and can usually be teased out with a pair of pliers by twisting both in opposite directions. I usually hold my tube in a vice. it can help to use a craft knife to start the process by gently cutting on the join line whilst rolling the prop tube on a flat surface. You can't do this on the installed tube but it will be held tight so just gripping the bearing and twisting should allow it to be removed. if you are lucky the new bearings will fit into the old tube. As in most things in life there is no gain without pain and it maybe this is not feasible. if you have a friend with a lathe a new bearing can be easily made using the old bearing as a pattern and adjusting to your new prop shaft. I believe the glue used was
    cascamite
    which will now be rock hard and brittle. Shafts can and have been removed and whilst there will be some damage its not as major as you may think, and being a wooden hull restoration is relatively straightforward. Good luck with your endeavours and hopefully a motor alignment will suffice. πŸ˜€
    12 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Billings Boat
    HI John This is very reminiscent of "The Fisherman" model by JL Rowell, and subsequently offered by AA Hales under their "Yeoman" range. Vic Smeed had a similar offering "Moonglow" around the same era. if it is a Billings offering then its possible that the cabin uses their (very) brittle mahogany type wood (my Billings Mercantic did). I don't expect it to have weathered well over the years and any glue joints, even with
    cascamite
    , will probably be separating, just alongside the glue joint. I am not criticising, the kits are some 50 years old, and at the time were very popular and made into very realistic models. πŸ‘ I hope someone can make a positive identification, and look forward to hearing how you progress with the restoration. πŸ˜€
    12 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    props,shafts and motor mount
    Thanks for the info on the glue, will add the names to my list! i'm still getting to grips with
    cascamite
    , used it on the woodwork on the Sun tug and found it stronger than the wood itself. but the only down side is you have to get the mix just right for it to fully cure. A more recent "find" is "aliphatic resin", this too is super strong and quick setting, fix dry in 20 minutes and fully bonded in 2 hrs. I like the twin motor mount, suppose it makes it easier to remove/refit too
    12 years ago by Gregg
    Blog
    deck framework
    Ive now added quite a fair portion of the deck framing. Al the wood to wood joins being fixed with a mix of
    cascamite
    , mixing it to a thicker paste, rather than being too runny and it dripping off the joints. I found that by brushing this stuff on to all the joints in sequence, then allowed me to give all the joints a second coat on the next pass as by this time, the first coat had started to tack off and stay put on the joins. You will notice from the pictures , that the motors do sit well forward in the hull. this is to keep the motors as level as possible with the prop shafts, so rather than angle the shafts and the props end up digging in to the water at almost 45 degrees, this setup barely tips the scales at 5 degrees off horizontal, thus giving better thrust output from the props. This also has the knock on effect that the universal joints do less work too, so less prone to wear out or at worst........fail!
    12 years ago by Gregg
    Blog
    hull bracing
    Well, have to start somewhere, so why not with adding an outer hull brace strip. This was made from some b & q wood strip [10mm sq], cut to length and then I added some saw cuts in specific areas, to enable me to "bend" the wood to the profile of the hull shape. this was glued in place with stabilit express and left to dry with sufficient clamps around the hull to hold firmly. Once this had dried fully, the clamps were removed and I mixed up some
    cascamite
    glue and brushed this in to all the saw cuts in the wooden strips, to fill up the gaps and also to strenghten the wood back up again . This strip will form the main deck outer frame and was set "level" with the hull top lip.
    12 years ago by Gregg
    Blog
    Hull strengthening/deck rail
    before going too far with the outside of the hull, and to stop it flexing too much, its time to add the deck support beam around the outer edge. For this I used some 10mm square ply strip, bought from local diy store. To "ease" it around the curves I 3/4 cut the ply strip in a series of saw cuts to help the wood bend to shape. This was bonded to the glass hull with stabilit express and as many clamps as you can muster or can find room for. Once this had dried for 24hrs, I removed the clips/clamps and then mixed up some
    cascamite
    and filled in all the saw cuts to fully re strengthen the wooden beam.
    12 years ago by Gregg
    Forum
    Use of Glues on Boats.
    HI gregoryk9 Very common problem with wooden boats. Not confined to cyano glues but to most types of glue where wood to wood joints are made and subsequently exposed to the elements. My Billing Mercantic was a plank on frame built with
    cascamite
    over 30 years ago. The problem lies in the wood. This being a natural product absorbs water and subsequently in a hot environment (the attic say) loses water. This causes expansion and contraction and over time the wood will split adjacent to the glue join. A solution is to cover the whole hull in tissue and fiberglass resin. Once set you can smooth the finish with wet & dry sand paper and paint. if you want to show the wood on the outside of the hull you need to run just the resin round the insides of the hull. You can cut and use tissue if you wish, this will give a stronger finish. Many advocate using resin inside and out but this will add to the weight and is not always possible. Araldite will certainly do the job but the hull will leak at some time if you do not completely seal the wood. Good luck with the rebuild Dave
    15 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    46'' Fire Boat Leaking Keel
    I have had same problem I used a two part epoxy resin you can usually get from your nearest model shop I mixes very thinly so you can brush it inside the hull with a flat brush when it sets it should cure the problem or try useing a wood glue similar to
    cascamite
    you mix it thinly watered down and flush it roun your hull when set should the same hope this helps mick
    15 years ago by Michael R


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy