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    Blog
    Revell Gato Class Submarine Conversion.
    I am about to start the most ambitious project to date. This one will be running alongside the three others currently on the go, The Police Boat which is nearly completed, The Dusseldorf Fire Boat which is well underway and the PTB upgrade. My intention is to change this Revell model into a static dive radio controlled Submarine. I am lucky that Martin555 has agreed to help whenever I get stuck which will be invaluable since he has already almost completed the same. I started by purchasing the model from Amazon for less than Β£50. I have also purchased the water tight tube for the electronics. I will make the end caps and sealed internal plugs from some 80mm diameter nylon I had at work. It will now come in handy that I am a toolmaker and have a considerable array of ma
    chines
    at my disposal. I will turn the plugs next week and find suitable o rings. I have started to prepare the hull. There is an enormous amount of work required to adjust the standard kit. A lot of cutting and drilling. I have prepared the split lines and glued in the alignment pegs. I have ordered suitable shafts and propellers from the USA. They should be here in a couple of weeks. Next job is to stick the two halves together and start the cutting.
    2 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the
    chines
    , rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    7 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Anyone into CNC, or perhaps looking to get into it? I am wondering about putting my plans out as G Code, and it would be useful to have a discussion about the practicalities. For instance, what bed size do people use? Model boat plans are a bit specialist for most CNC boards. They worry about cutting hard materials - we mainly use balsa and ply. Their ma
    chines
    are usually square - ours would need to be long and thin. They use big commercial routers and spindles - we could get away with smaller motors and dental burrs. I picked up one of these over Christmas, and am currently going through the learning curve. But it doesn't seem to be all that difficult.... https://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/index.php?seo_path=eshapeoko-cnc-milling-machine-mechanical-kit
    5 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    ".......I am on a bitof a learning curve at the moment........" A few lessons I learned: 1 - Get a good, solid base-board which isn't warped. The local timber yard may have off-cuts of 3/4" ply. You will want to assemble the mechanics on a proper base, and it helps to have it available first. You will want to paint it anyway, so it will need time to dry. 2 - Get a dial indicator. An easy way to check for precision in assembly is to attach a dial indicator to the end of the Z axis and run it over the base board. It's good for other fault-finding and calibration as well. There are cheap ones on Ebay. 3 - Plan out all the wiring. I put my limit switches in as an afterthought, and found that I had wires which couldn't go in the places I wanted them to go. 4 - Wiring loom control. Consider Drag Chains, Heat-shrink tubing and Braiding. All items are very cheap from Ebay. If you don't put the wiring in at assembly you won't be able to put it in later once everything is connected up... 5 - If you use a drag chain for the USB connection, you will either have to make sure that it's wide enough to take a USB plug passing through it, or cut the plug off, pass it through and re-solder it afterwards. If you do the latter, note that the shielding in a USB cable is aluminium, and won't solder. So you will need to use a connector plug which has a physical connection to the shielding, because interference can ba a problem on these ma
    chines
    ....
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    While it helps to be accurate, the final trimming of the work holder is done by the machine itself. Here I am cutting the edges of the holder so that a sheet of 4" balsa will be neatly held. That's about 1.6mm wider than a 100mm sheet, so I will need a packing strip if I use the metric sizes. It's surprising how precise these ma
    chines
    are - I'm moving the cutter in by 0.1mm each pass, but it can move in much smaller steps - one microstep is 6.25 microns, which is about 2.5 ten thousandths of an inch. The balsa will be held between some raised sides made of hard balsa, so that they can be cut easily by the machine if I get a command wrong and move the cutter out of the work area. I expect to put a 2mm felt layer below so that the cutter will have something soft if it goes completely through the workpiece.
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Bending balsa
    its a VERY well known technique its how we used to make rolled balsa bodies for rubber powered competition airplanes. Back in the day we used spent developing solutions from blue print ma
    chines
    ( ammonia solution). Rolling the balsa sheet around a snooker queue. That is how tight a curve you can get if you give it long enough to soak. Full strength takes a couple of weeks to recover.
    4 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Well, I've got my eShapeoko. I bought all the electronics and motors as well as the mechanical kit from the same source, which meant that I didn't have to do all the work to check compatibility. Total cost, including VAT and postage, was Β£563 - which is remarkably cheap for a machine with this size cutting bed. if I had wanted to save money and use the free LinuxCNC with a
    chines
    e breakout board I could have dropped the price to around Β£400 - probably below Β£350 if I had gone for
    chines
    e Ebay steppers as well. There are more things to get, of course. Tooling and workholding are the standard extras for any big workshop machine. The eShapeoko is designed to hold a Dremel clone, but I will probably be using a more delicate tool to cut out thin balsa shapes for EeZeBilts. The eShapeoko is quite capable of milling metals, but I don't expect to do that very often. So I can't see the total price rising by a lot - perhaps another Β£20 or so before I can be cutting my first parts. The first thing I did when I got the parts was assemble them roughly to check that it all went together properly. Here is a shot - minus the wiring and controls, of course - to give an idea of the size of the thing. With it I can cut keel lengths up to about 36". The maximum cutting width is about 14". I can easily expand it in length by adding longer rails, but this represents a balance between what would be useful and what would fit easily in the shed! Assembling it is just like making a Meccano kit. Which should present no difficulty to someone of a certain age...! For anyone interested this is the site I got it from: https://amberspyglass.co.uk
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels)
    I have all the ma
    chines
    and more but I cannot do that. You have a real skill. I love your fixture ideas. One day I will try to machine some similar parts when I start my 46" RAF Crash Tender. I intend to use this build blog as my guide. Thanks for all of the in depth explanations of how you achieve such detail using every trick in the book and many that are yet to be written. I love reading this build. Really clever. πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    I'm thinking about interchanging boat plans as CNC files - so I'm thinking about the sort of ma
    chines
    people are going to have at home. There are a lot of 'cheap
    chines
    e' ma
    chines
    on EBay for Β£200 up to about Β£500 - but these will be used for engraving, and will have cutting tables of about 8" square. Boat modellers really need a long axis. The Shapeoko is an 'open source' hardware design - much like the Rep-Rap, and the great thing about it is that you can specify the axis sizes - so you can have a machine which is a foot by six feet if you wish. I have just bought a UK kit for one called the eShapeoko - 1m x 500mm - cost about Β£500. But there is so much to consider - calibrating the machine, choosing a spindle drive, picking a software set....
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    We used a package called aplicam, it suited all the ma
    chines
    once, you told it the machine zero settings it worked it all out for you. And all we had to do was put dimensions on to the pdf files, or trace using a graphics tablet. It was the best system I used in all my engineering life from school to retirement. I wish I had a copy of it now, it was originally DOS operated in the 70's, and when I retired it was up to Windows 10. Cheers Colin.
    4 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Ah - I've never used any commercial packages - just Open Source. I presume that your company matched their software to the ma
    chines
    they had. i'm finding that different home ma
    chines
    seem to have slightly different command sets - for homing, for instance....
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Using downloaded pdfs, I use a reverse engineering package to get my cnc program (in G code). it worked with all the machinery in our factory, laser, oxy,/acetylene profiler, pulsa and proteus punching ma
    chines
    and also cnc machining centres. Most commercial cnc programs come with reverse engineering. Hope this helps you. Cheers Colin.
    4 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Not much point uploading a .pdf, unless it has some unusual conversion software. CNC ma
    chines
    work off G Code. The work area is critical for model boat work. Typical parts are long and thin. The eShapeoko I am building is a nominal 1m x 500mm, which lets me do a 36" keel piece. I would like to put out G Code for cutting the EeZebilt boats, but am not sure how to standardise it so that many CNC ma
    chines
    will be able to use it. Different CNC controllers seem to use subtly different G Code commands...
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Hello to Rick and Peejay, Rick this bit is for you, Good to hear you have a steam engine fitted, and are contemplating a bench run to see how long it will run on a boiler full of water. it will bench run longer than on the water as the engine has no loading, I would recommend you fit a gas cut off valve to be on the safe side. I once years ago ran out of water and had to watch the boiler turn its wooden lagging to charcoal. No major damage was done but it did smell a bit for some time. Peejay may I suggest that you Google the likes of Microcosm and other
    chines
    e manufacturers of model steam engines, there is an awful lot out there you will be surprised, try for a twin double acting side valve as they are very efficient, and will run on only 20 - 30 PSI, plus a 1/2" bore twin cylinder will easily power a one metre length hull. Regards to you both, Gary.
    5 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some
    chines
    e one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin
    7 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Welcome to the magic world of cheap
    chines
    e clone R/C equipment!
    5 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    internet sales
    I have been reading about how the high street shops are suffering in regards to sales.I wish to plead guilty as i purchase most of my model boat kits and parts online ! The shop keepers have high rates and running costs etc when compared to some online retailers .I purchased online a 4 channel transmitter,receiver and 30amp esc from china for around Β£40 as this would cost double from a uk retailer its no wonder there are very few model shops left but as an Oap i look after the pennies.All the
    chines
    e parts are excellent and work well. I would prefer to buy local and enjoy a walk around a well stocked shop but difference in local retail prices and imported items is now too much.Model shops of my youth are sorely missed.
    6 months ago by keithtindley
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    This 'Cheap
    chines
    e' design, according to the documentation, seems to come in several different (nominal) amp ratings, and, interestingly, in a 'standard car' or in a 'crawler' version. The one for crawlers - slow rock-climbing cars - is also recommended for tanks, and has a jumper giving the sort of instant reverse we would use for boats. This looks like an example... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-Brushed-1060-60A-ESC-For-RC-1-10-Crawler-Car-Tank-Model-Accessory/362488539332?epid=13025976857&hash=item54660028c4:g:ybcAAOSwwdNb7rDO:rk:127:pf:0 Which might help if anyone's browsing cheap brandless ESCs...
    6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap
    chines
    e car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in Brushless motors. You will also find that some
    chines
    e motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. if it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). if you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it. Water cooled marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv water cooled motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushless ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Excelsior
    Hi Joe, In answer to your queries, Hull was built in the bread and butter system using deal sealed inside and out with coats of yacht varnish and painted using acrylic. Subsequent models of Wherries and
    chines
    e Junks were plank on frame using 1/8” balsa strips sealed with resin,varnish inside and out, with again acrylic paint. Balsa easier to work with to gain experience - reasonable effectiveness both in carvel and clinker planking. All the best and good sailing. Gascoigne
    6 months ago by Gascoigne
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Hi Robbob, thanks for the heads up on London Model Engineering Exhibition at 'Ally Pally' in January 2019. I am hoping to be there, Just to see your masterpiece !
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Hi Doug. All credit due to Phil Smith and his original design for that actually... Hi rolfman2000 I hope SWMBO is good to her word as I happen to know that the kit is now available to buy from Vintage Model Works πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘ I'm told the price is Β£185.00 + P&P and there's also an optional stand/carrying box which is CNC cut to the hull profile for an additional Β£10.00 That sounds a bit of a bargain too. Contact Mike Cummings at VMW for more information: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/ I'm hoping to have the boat in an advanced state of completion in time for the London Model Engineering Exhibition at 'Ally Pally' in January 2019. It will be on the St.Albans & District Model Engineering Society club stand alongside my RAF Crash Tender. Rob.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Oh how this brings memories flooding back from 50 years ago, seeing the same construction as my original Veron Police launch (that's sat in the garage), going together. I bet the fit is a darned sight better than it was all those years ago, what with cad laser cut pieces and cad designs as well. I'm following this with even more interest, as I have permission of SWMBO to get the new bigger kit when it becomes available. Fingers crossed, not long now. Keep the installments coming Robbob. Best wishes, Dave W 😊
    6 months ago by rolfman2000
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Simple Rob, Instead of attempting some almost impossible bends of thin (0.5mmx5mm )planks, I'll cut it out of 3 interlocking pieces (each side) of 1.5mm mahog sheet. Will probably end up looking more like it would have been done on an original 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Hi Doug. Not sure how I've helped you out with your caprail but thanks for the compliment πŸ‘. Mike. The boat gets a lot heavier once the ply skins and planking goes on, I hope it doesn't need blasting as there's not too many places to hide it away πŸ€”.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Thats coming on nicely and as you say it looks quite a rigid construction. How much of a bonus is a lightweight construction V an all ply construction as I assume you may have to put some ballast in the finished model. not thtat I have any experience on the subject
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    Excellent RobπŸ‘ Thanks for showing me how to make the mahogany caprail for my cutter 😊 "More power to your
    chines
    "😁 Cheers Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Upper & Lower
    chines
    The next stage is to assemble and fit the upper and lower
    chines
    to the bulkhead formers. Each chine is made from three parts that are step jointed together, the instructions recommend using the plan to ensure correct alignment with a protective transparent paper between, however the cutting accuracy of the parts is such that having checked the alignment over the plan I was confident that assembling and glueing them together on the cutting mat would be OK. The upper
    chines
    were assembled first and when set were glued and pinned to the tops of the bulkhead formers with the fronts butting against the K1 keel former at the prow. The lower
    chines
    were assembled in the same fashion and when dry are glued and set into the slots in the bulkhead formers. Finally the stern former F7 is added and the whole assembly set aside to dry. The hull is quickly taking shape now and even at this stage is very rigid and yet remarkably light.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    steam water pump
    I would suggest you go on to eBay, and then type in Microcosm Steam engines in the search window,this will take you to a
    chines
    e Company who make numerous steam engines, at very reasonable prices plus lubricators and mechanical water pumps for various engines. Let me know how you get on. I willpost youa photo of an engine with a pump fitted, one of Microcosm's engines, they do boilers as well.
    6 months ago by GaryLC
    Blog
    Elizabeth
    After a long lay-off, not requested or wanted. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth. She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then planked the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper.. The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up bulkheads but the keel and bulkheads are 5mm ply.
    chines
    are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.
    12 months ago by muddy
    Media
    March'71
    165footer job from Bangladesh navy. Armed with 1 37mm
    chines
    e naval cannon (which I replaced with type 76F variant), 2 orlicons. Actually used to patrol costal area here , also used in coast guard. The class name is padma class patrol vessel, designed and made by BN. Tried to make its rc version in 1:110th scale(I'm not great like you guys so please help me do better and suggest me where I can do better). Length 45cm, beam 7cm. Powered with dual 180. The only thing I'm suffering is motor shaft connectoΕ•. Those two universal joints I bought are not good enough for smooth rotation. They vibrates. So I used silicone tubes. Now I'm using latex rubber tubes . Any suggestions or plan what I can use in peace!πŸ˜†
    7 months ago by Sakibian
    Forum
    Landing Ship Tanks (WW2)
    Went to Tobruk from Toulon on one and returned during mid 60's run by merchant navy and a lot of
    chines
    e depending which engineer was on we got to swim in the bow section. Not if the scots engineer was on as he had the hump due he got nowhere with his ''see you jimmy '' as we were all either Scots Greys or Black Watch. No tanks just soft skins and armoured cars plus our 2 choppers. Also used in Aden but that was a short trip up the coast that was everything and Carriers big flag waving exercise
    8 months ago by camyaj
    Response
    Maree III sharpie 10 Rater
    chines
    and first skin in place.
    8 months ago by steve-d
    Response
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Cheers Doug, would be great if there is an English version available, as one in German would have been OK some 20years ago, but my German is very iffy now, no-one to talk to ..everybody Ahh, it's so easy if you don't use it, you lose it, (old
    chines
    e Proverb). schâne Grüße, Peter😊
    8 months ago by Rookysailor
    Response
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all I have been reading the post concerning lathes, my little lathe suits my needs and my pocket its great. I also forty years experience working with manufacturing ma
    chines
    , wood lathes ,bandsaws, milling ma
    chines
    , and metal turning lathes, and more. I was also a first aider most of working life, And what I would advise for people who have no experience in using any of these type ma
    chines
    weather full size or mini is to get instruction preferably from a time served machinist who have trained apprentice's or a course at further education college. I have had to attend three lathe accidents and all were life changing. you can see what I mean if you Google lathe accidents and good look at the images. full size or mini makes no difference
    8 months ago by teejay
    Forum
    Got the bits, now what?...
    Not the cheapest, but available...RC Tech in Llandrindod Wells. Couldn't find the
    chines
    e one again and didn't want the wait for the slow boat. Switch Electronics couldn't be arsed to answer the 'phone on a Friday morning, so they were out too. Should be here on Monday. Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap
    chines
    e waterproof car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Starting a bit backwards here as have posted more recently with some ideas. if you are going to have a twin brushless system using 1 REC, you probably should have twin 2200Mah 2s lipos, a power lead (I use a JST plug set) taken from the input leads of ONE ESC (not the batt leads) (I break into them and solder the JST leads on ) run those to a UBEC and then to your REC switch then to your receiver. if your ESCs have a built in BEC, withdraw the red power wires from the BEC receiver plugs and tape them back as you now don't need the power from these. if your TX is 2 stick 4/6ch etc and is capable of being changed to 2 throttle sticks (provision for ratchet strip - copy if necessary - on opposite gimbal - ie using set up as mode 1&2 throttle) you can use the existing throttle and elevator stick to give full independent control with either rudder or aileron Ch for rudder. The
    chines
    e ESCs I use have a power switch as well as BECs which is handy. I would keep the brushed system separate from the brushless altogether with its own battery (or try power from the other batt as described above) otherwise you may be trying to mix 3 phase and single phase at some point. if you are using 2.4 you could use another paired 3ch receiver (does work, as mentioned in my later post) to only run the brushless throttle from a rotary sw on your TX (if you have that )
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (
    chines
    e cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). it can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice
    chines
    e ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. if it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Pilot Boat
    looking at the bulkheads I would suggest that the structure is meant to be built upside down on a building board. Each bulkhead should be fastened to a piece of 12mm sq timber then fasten to the base board at the appropriate spacing keeping them upright and square, then the keel can be glued in place followed by the
    chines
    keeping all the structure square and true. Just a thought. Ill post a picture of a similar vessel I am building at present in this way, but will be tomorrow.
    10 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    Just received a prop for my outboard motor from China as I couldn't find one for dog drive and the right shaft diameter over here. It wasn't the cheapest, but ye Gods, somebody has seriously specced up this baby. It is superb, light as a feather, completely CNC machined, sharp as a razor. Couldn't be happier with it for an ebay purchase. Now, with brushless and prop, I suppose I will have to get the boat finished! Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    Nah CB90, stainless s nice, but too heavy. This
    chines
    e ally one is like a feather. Enables faster acceleration, which is what you want with a light outboard powered kneeler. Never seen a stainless prop. Ally, brass, bronze or plastic, plus the ancient twisted tin plate one on my 58 year old Sea Urchin. Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    All of this over props! I'm glad I use scaled brass props. For my Tugs! I don't need sharp edges for them! If you know there's a possible danger in sharping the prop. You do so at your own risk! Stay away from beryllium props.... Cheers, Ed
    10 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    Hi Martin, "how the hell would you know?" For a start you can look here. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Brass Or quite bluntly ask the supplier / manufacturer. But as I say above, only seems to affect the extreme performance racing guys. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; OP?
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    After all this chit chat I bet 'Westquay' will say by the way the propeller was made of stainless steel. Cheers Roy.
    10 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    Apart from Octura, how the hell would you know? I use CZ 120 and CZ 121 grade brass for all my work. I once had a lump of cast bronze stick which I used for a crankcase. it was harder than steel and hated being soldered, but it was the right size. I've worked with brass for over 50 years and never had a problem. But then, I've used cadmium silver solder without a problem too! Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    Quote from rcgroups forum- "Yep, beryllium-copper in many racing props, like Octura's. No problem for "scale" brass/bronze props. " Seems only to be a problem for the extreme racing performance guys! Conclusion: Buy European!πŸ‘
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    dont know if this is a sales pitch to make them sound sexy as the element is used on things like the space shuttle and missile technology its also used in industrial spotwelder electrodes where it is alloyed with copper ,it is a carcinogenic and used to be called sweet metal due to the sweet taste if injected through taste ,personally I would just avoid it and purchase normal brass props .cheers Marky
    10 months ago by marky
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2454547-Metal-vs-Plastic-Props "Downside to metal props is the fact they need to be balanced and sharpened, which is a lot of work and not without health issues due to the beryllium used in some brass alloys. Berillium is highly toxic, read up on the stuff and take the appropriate measures." and https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1267378-Dangers-of-prop-work. I know you cannot trust all you read on the internet, but better safe than sorry!
    10 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    chines
    e props
    Hi CB, Where on earth did you get that from? Can you give me a URL link? Brass is basically a copper - zinc alloy anyway. Agreed beryllium is toxic but over 45 years in electronics I've only ever run across it in various RF hi-power transistors types. Never in a brass alloy. Academic for me as I buy my brass props from Raboesch in Holland. They are already balanced and polished anyway!😊 '
    chines
    e' manufacturers not subject to the much maligned EU regulations huh!? Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW People: IF by remote chance your props do contain beryllium DO NOT WORK ON THEM AT ALL. Dispose of them pronto at your local hazardous substances recycling depot. Above all do not sand or grind them. it's the beryllium oxide dust that's dangerous, that's why safe disposal of busted florescent lamps and the old first generation 'Energy saving bulbs' is also mandatory. YHBW!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich


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