Forum

Soldering

if your not used to using a torch please make sure whatever your resting the work on will not burn!! Oh and please remember things stay hot for longer than you might think cooling a soft soldered joint with water is not a good idea allow it to cool slowly. Get a couple of cheap pairs of pliers and some rubber bands to use for if the parts are small and light enough a 3rd hand is useful https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC0.A0.H0.Xthird+hand.TRS0&_nkw=third+hand&_sacat=0 some examples there.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

New to Forum

Hello I myself think soldering is practice doing clean surfaces are the first step flux, type of solder and a good iron . Holding the pieces in jigs or will assist in the final out- come. At first it seems very hard but practice will prove to help and soldering becomes a little easier. Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Blog

Clamp Chaos

Hello, it's been a slow week as I started out having some teeth pulled, put me off track so I missed getting some photos. I will get some better shots of what the keel board looks like once I get some out of the way. I will photo how I do the last four ribs as well. Photos show my makeshift board with everywhere. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Crack in Seam Update!

Star date 29.12.18 Supplemental 00.52 😁 I hope it works too Ed. 👍 Don't forget to seal any exposed wood before dunking it again. And I would recommend putting all the ballast and batteries back in (at least loosely) to recreate actual sailing conditions; i.e. water pressure on the potential leak area. I wondered why you went to such lengths anyway. Had similar problems with the restorations of my Sea Scout and fish cutter. I simply soaked the affected areas in resin, inside and out, while holding in . Sand, fill (Bondo?😁), sand, paint and Bob's yer uncle and Fanny's yer Aunt 😁😁 Nevertheless; hope it works for you Ed, cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Fitting the side skins.

The side skins are made from 1.5mm ply and require a slight curve towards the bow and I found that this is best achieved by gently warming with a heat gun, which seems to relax the glue between the laminations, so that when bent to a gentle curve and allowed to cool will set the shape very easily. The skins are supplied are slightly oversize and when the skins have been bent they can be roughly clamped to the hull and then marked for trimming, also while the skin is clamped in place the positions of the bulkhead formers can be marked on the skin. Back on the bench the skins were trimmed with a craft knife (with a fresh blade) and then drilled with a 1mm bit to allow pinning through into the formers and strakes. Aliphatic glue was applied to the hull formers and strakes and the skin positioned so that the drilled holes were in correct alignment with the formers and then clamped and pinned in place. Because the skin was pre-formed to the hull shape the and pins are not under much tension and the hull was set aside while the glue set. When the port skin had fully set overnight, the pins and were removed and the skin was finished with a plane to remove the excess down to the strakes and the F1 former at the bow and the sanding ‘plate’ used to finish it all off. Where the side skins meet at the prow there needs to be a wide flat area for the external keel to butt to and so the trimming and sanding there will be done at a later stage before the bow blocks are fitted and carved. The process was repeated for the starboard side skin and while the glue was setting I gave some thought to a means of concealing some of the wiring that needs to run the length of the hull 🤔.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Pretend deck planking

The bend was done using a "jig" and two strips of a thin plywood as a protection of the planks (nor to distort them by as it happened for the first time). First, I cooked them a little, of course. When dried, they kept the shape nicely. For caulking, the epoxy (or aliphatic wood glue) could be "injected" into the gaps left between the planks. I have tried all three methods (black paper, epoxy and aliphatic glue) and went for paper, at the end.

5 years ago by Zdenek

Response

Sanding done

Hi Steve, for the 'white stick', the VHF IMM band antenna, any old rod will do. The real ones are copper wire covered in glass fibre. Length of the real thing is about 107cm including the coaxial end feed connector at the bottom. They are usually mounted on a 'scaffold' type pole with two U . On pleasure craft they are often just whip antennas approx 1m length, much much cheaper than the pro jobs 😉, with a dome shaped mounting and the antenna cable is fed into it through the deck/roof it is mounted on. Alternatively there is a side connector in the mount with an 'N' Type coaxial socket. Make a whip out of piano wire (with a ball on the top to protect your eyeballs!😆) and you could use it as your RX antenna - about the right length. Construction coming on nicely.👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Assembly

Hi All Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees. When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades. Like I say not enough Have ordered the decking from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.

6 years ago by Ianh

Blog

Part of my collection

6 years ago by Ianh

Blog

Assemble the hull

The Bulwarks were out in place on the jig and glued with ZAP 30 minute epoxy. I used the cabin sides to align the bulkheads. By the way you will need a lot of these

6 years ago by Ianh

Response

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 10

Not sure your correct when you say ply doesn't bend in two directions. when building my crash tender the roof panels are a compound curve, I steamed them and let them set in a jig. I agree this will be somewhat more difficult when dealing with a full length skin but with some thought and appropriate jigs and I think it can be done. Ill give it a go on my next build.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Hi Martin, Apropos mini Milling machines; this is the one I use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qffdG_d2fJ0 https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-371104 Pics show using it to mill my new Sea Scout propshaft to secure the grub screws in the motor coupling. I just changed the tool holder from collets to a proper chuck. I also bought the little machine vice which to the table, and the dividing head. There is also a CNC (putah driven version - ain't got that far yet, bit expensive😉) But this little job has served me well for several years now, very happy with it👍 I also use it as a precision drill press; e.g. to make the new phosphor bronze brushes for my Taycol target renovation. See last pic. Have also recently used it to make the little gearbox so I can fit the renovated Taycol Target into my ancient Billing Danish fish cutter 'Gina2'. See, I don't just do the 'Grey Fleet', sometimes I also mess with wood😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Pilot Boat

Agreed Mike, that was exactly my thought as studied the pics of frame arrangements👍 Pete, I hope you managed to get all frames fitted at right angles to the keel! To skin it I would fix the frame structure firmly to a build-board upside-down as Mike says. Make sure the keel is straight and then FIX THE BOTTOM SKINS FIRST making sure that they are flush to the keel and that the keel is straight and the frames not twisted. Leave overnight to set thoroughly. If you are having trouble fitting the skin round the bow and sticking the whole length then as a first stage glue the 'flat' bit aft. Leave to set overnight and then you can play with the 'bent' bits the next day without shifting what you have already done.😉 When the bottom skins are fixed file and sand to fit so you can fit the side skins smoothly and down over the bottom skin edges. Use the same technique for the side skins, stick the back end first if you ain't got enough hands handy to fiddle aft and bow on simultaneously😉 Use if you can, e.g. the simple plastic X types or bulldog clips, whatever. instead of Sellotape try aluminium Duct Tape. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ...

Talking of see these I got 20. For the Missus of course.. Oops nose grew;--https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=steel+clothes+pegs&oq=Steel+clothes&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0l5.22000j1j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8. On offer from Groupon. Very strong👍😊

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Windows, stoopid question.

Doug, sorry, I should have answered you last time on that. A good impression of a dummy screw can be made in aluminium with a piece of tube sharpened on the end so it looks like a miniature leather punch. Obviously better if you can do it with something you've done in the lathe, in steel, but you don't have one. SO....PM me your postal and I will send you something I will knock up for you tomorrow in steel. That will last you into your dotage, when you will be found dribbling into the geraniums with this little tool in your mitts making impressions on the window cills of Frau Schmutterputz's Home for Englische Modelbauen. You will be able to "sharpen" it buy running it round on a stone lightly, rolling it as you draw it backwards. Can't add to Squire Turpin's words at all. I have a slide tailstock on my wee Taig lathe which makes screw forming easy as the thread takes the tap/die as it wants it, square and true. The piercing saw has for much finer blades rather than the relatively big fret saw blades which generally have a pin at the ends. Sometimes you'll break a blade at one end. Then the adjustability makes sense as you just re work the length and re-use the broken blade. Tight wads like me appreciate such things. Car booked in tomorrow for repairs. About £300, so not as bad as I thought it might be. it's passed for the last two years. Busy boy today as I sprayed the Crash Tender grey on its upper works and by the looks of it it just needs a few areas of fine filler and a rub down on the toe rails and one more coat then it'll be ready for the gloss sides and the hull proper. Then I even used my brand new saw to mitre the corners of the topping to Chris's new garden pond casing. it's a stand up one to save our backs. So now, I am gonna sit and watch shite telly, even shiter than normal as it is all infested by ball kickers playing grown ups and failing miserably . G'night. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte

I had to open my mouth yesterday didn't I 😭 this morning I took of the to file of the excess glue and dropped the frame onto the floor knocking one of the ribs of 💩so I have had to re-glue the rib back on again so will be starting the blanking tomorrow now.i have included a couple of pics of the boat frame before I dropped it. 😱😱

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Blog

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)

6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Graupner ranzow refitting

The deck has been fitted today after dry test fit before glueing. The timber framing and underside of the ply decking was coated in a water based varnish before applying the titebond 2 wood glue. Used a number of and bungee cords to hold the deck down.

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Response

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ...

I like the new , you won't lose them in the dark. another matching gloss finish, very satisfying

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Just getting started

To you all - thankyou. I have found all your comments very useful. You can’t have too many ! I also am finding my Mini Wirkstation useful plus the smaller and larger cutting green mat as a base. I’ve also learnt ‘patience’ building my Wills Everard. Thanks again.

6 years ago by Baggie

Blog

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ...

give up and go home! Oh! I am home 😁 Since I need access to the rudder the after deck has to be made as a removable hatch. Would you believe at the last refit (25 years ago) I actually managed to shoehorn the RX and RX NiMH battery in there as well!? Pic 1 shows what it looked like when I started this refit, after 20 odd years in the cellar 😲 Anyway, I wanted the deck to be mahogany to match the cabin roof and as a hatch it was obvious that it would need a subframe. Pic 2 to 5, had to open a new bag of chomp chomp 😉 Trial fit Pic 6. SFSG! Under side was sealed with two coats of EzeKote and fixings added; neodymium magnets at the forward edge, domed captive nyloc nuts glued into the under frame at the aft edge. Pics 7 & 8. These will then accept 4mm studs screwed into Riva style fuel filler caps to hold it down and (hopefully) keep it watertight. Mahog was then finished in the same laborious and patience testing process described above (or is it below😲) for the cabin roof and decks. Pic 9 shows it screwed down with normal 4mm 'Camembert' head screws - Why? see below 😆 Finish was OK.. BUT After leaving screwed down overnight a hairline crack had developed 😡 Pic 10. Also, I didn't like the 3mm fillets between the hatch deck and the main deck, and was wondering what to do about the lip on the bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit. There was a chunk cut out in the middle. This was where in the old days we had a tiller bar to set the rudder for Free Running on a great circle (Radnor Park Lake in Folkestone - side note for Graham P74, probably before he was born😉) Sooo .... machined the lip away, removed the 3mm fillets, made a cardboard template for the new deck-piece and tomorrow is another day. Wonder what I can muck up then !!?? 😊 G'night all, ciao Doug 😎 Oh yes the Filler caps - drilled them on the lathe for 4mm thread clearance, dug out the tap set, selected 4mm 0.7mm pitch ..... Oh S..t, only a tapered tap which starts cutting at 5mm. Hole in the cap is only 5mm deep.😡 Immediately ordered 4mm parallel machine tap, should be here on Wednesday. No sweat, should have deck hatch Mk. 2 finished by then 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Just getting started

I came across those by luck a few weeks ago. Had gone to Homebase (one of those large DIY/gardening/kitchens etc. superstores) with my wife for something she wanted and stumbled across them, and thinking they look useful bought a couple. When I went back again a few days ago I virtually cleared the stock! Could do with getting a few more though because as you can see and know you can soon use them all up! I'm really lucky with the IMBS as it's only about 20 minutes away! Been there two years in a row since getting interested in the hobby. Chris

6 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Just getting started

Thanks Chris, entirely understand re downloading pics from camera. 😁Those blue jobs look neat, haven't seen any like that over here - yet! I have 'oodles' of the little X you've also used and a few mini alu G . They are virtually thrown at you at the check outs in the DIY stores here - bag of 12 for a quid or so. Wish I could get to the IMBS 🤔 Re quoting posts; "PS is there any way of quoting posts on this site as I haven't sussed how to do it if you can?" I haven't found any more elegant way of doing than that! Copy and paste (Control+C and Control+V) and putting it in quotes in the new post. Happy clamping 😉 Looking very good so far, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Just getting started

Smiffy - they're the ones. Agree about the bigger spring , I struggle with some of the larger ones and I don't have arthritic hands! Some of that type can be a bit too strong for delicate joints as well, probably the smaller plastic G would be better suited as light as well. I have to say we are pretty spoilt with all the types of etc. that are available nowadays. Chris

6 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Just getting started

You are absolutely right Doug but it was quite late with work (getting there, down to 3 days!) the next day and couldn't be ars@d to get the photo off my camera! But photos attached with other pressed into action as well as only straight pieces of timber and not as much force required. I picked up those one-handed from the international Model Boat Show and they are good as well but I only have two. Chris PS is there any way of quoting posts on this site as I haven't sussed how to do it if you can?

6 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Just getting started

Good point. Here is a picture of the I nipped to B&Q to buy yesterday before the snow started. I really wanted more of the smallest size on the right but they only had one. The set of six larger ones were cheap enough but the springs are a little strong for my arthritic hands - in fact I have to use both hands to open the largest ones! The toolmakers have gone back in the workshop (I am building Miranda in my study indoors as I don’t like sawdust getting on my machine tools - don’t tell the boss!) I do have a couple of the scissor type that Chris mentioned but have found it too easy to put too much pressure on delicate joints and they are quite heavy so have to be supported so that there is no distortion as the glue dries. They are called “Quick-Grip Handi-Clamp” and are known as “curved bar ”. All the best Smiffy

6 years ago by Smiffy

Blog

Side skins

To enable ease of application of the side skins I decided to raise the building board up to 45 degrees, this allows a better view of the proposed joints Before fitting the bottom skins the side skins have to be trimmed back to the stringers and deck line again using a red pencil to show how much material is being removed as I approach the stringers with the plane. Having done that little job it’s time to shape the skin. I followed the same procedure as I did with the side skins. Again after some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve. At this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve and also trim the cut-out where the skin joins with a butt joint as opposed to the overlap from bow to stern, this is all done prior to bending. Notice the steel shim protecting the chine from being cut as the bottom skin is trimmed for the overlap of the side skin. The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable size paint tin and left overnight to dry. I first pinned the stern end dry and then epoxied the bow area then followed by more epoxy and progressive pinning towards the stern using brass pins into the bulkheads and smaller pins along the overlap which will be removed when the joint is dry. I made a tempory clamping arrangement at th bow by pinning some scrap ply to the top beck atea to enable to be used, notice the use of a mirror to be able to make sure the joint had come together

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Just getting started

I've got a number of spring type and Bulldog clips etc. but having read that glued joints benefit from proper clamping I bought a number from Homebase which are of a scissor type which you apply pressure to to clamp and release via a lever. I've glued some timber bent to a curve, so under pressure and the joint is sound so happy with that. Will have to get some more! I'd already got some G etc. of different sizes but I like these scissor type.

6 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Just getting started

Fortunately being a former architectural draughtsman I'd got all the drawing equipment that I need. You're bang on as regards , I've just had to pop round to Homebase and get some more for my current build! You can never have too many! Chris

6 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

miskin

I agree with KMBCSecretary. I have a biscuit tin full with all sizes of Bulldog clips, they are readily available and are not priced up in the sky like some small tools sold for specific hobbies. if you find the grip to be too tight just bend them with a pair of pliers, I am making HMS Alfred Admiralty style and have not had any issues. Good luck. Get the micro-marks catalogue, you will find all kinds of treasures!! Have a super day. Mark.

6 years ago by pugwash1

Forum

miskin

Hi guys I was checking out a build log of a Mantua Bruma on www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1243658-Mantua-Bruma-Build-Log. he is using miskin does anyone know were it can get some they look a good bit of kit maybe somone out there could recommend something else on a similar idea, cheers

6 years ago by BigAlio

Forum

miskin

Cheers Dave thanks for info always good to get help and information from other fellow builders.

6 years ago by BigAlio

Forum

miskin

You can get them from the USA https://www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools/?page=3 Part SKU:60926. $20.95. They are on back order at present. Neat idea using a fine screw attached to the red knob which pushes a plate to hold the plank. If you can't wait then two bits of wood, one the same thickness as the plank, and a fine screw would do the same. if you drill a fine hole in the former a drawing pin would be just as good. I like the bulldog clips with a paper clip(?) idea as there is no need to drill holes, brilliant!

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

miskin

thanks for info havent sean any on ebay

6 years ago by BigAlio

Forum

miskin

Hi Alio, 'fraid you're out of luck! Unless you can find some on EBay. Miskin Models is no more 🤔 Defunkt in 2014. http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=94125 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

miskin

I use the small bull dog clips for planking like this pic cheap as chips and never failed me yet

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Just getting started

Ron I nearly forgot something vital! 😲 ! Lots of 'em, various types. Pics attached of some of mine in action on the cabin roof of my Sea Scout. Large and small bulldog clips are also very useful. 4th pic shows some for the bigger stuff. 5th pic some useful hand-tools, incl. both metal and wood hacksaws - indispensable 😉 6th pic is an Exacto set of scalpel / chisels. Useful for all sorts of cutting, trimming, scraping jobs. 7th pic, of course the ubiquitous mini drill and bits from 0.5mm upwards. Pic shows the box I made for the drill and speed controller, and to mount my mini table saw. in the top left corner is a mini jigsaw. Not essential but very nice to have. All three run off the same DC controller which the drill is sitting on. Last pic; set squares (various sizes) and measuring sticks! The black object is a rubber backing block for sandpaper strips. Saves the finger tips😉 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

2nd Gunwhale stringers

Ron It'a a 46" model so the wood is the correct size. You have asked about in your post and there are plenty of examples in this blog, you should subscribe to follow progress. The kits by Vintage Models have been around fore a few years and make into a nice model if built carefully as in this model.

6 years ago by Dave M

Blog

Chine stringers

Chine stringers Again first job is to trim all the bulkhead corners so the stringers sit flat against each bulkhead. We can then start to trial fit each side to see what sort of curvature we need. This time I needed a tighter curve (2.5 litre paint tin) so again using a scrap piece chip board I made another jig. The stringers are fitted in the same sequence as the gunwhale stringers that is the first pair are trial pinned, then epoxied and fully pinned. When fully set the second pair can be fitted but this time using only, no pins, to allow for trimming at a later stage. Then allow some time for it to set and check that all this tension in both sets of stringers hasn't caused any twisting or misalignment.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

2nd Gunwhale stringers

Now for the more difficult stringer, this one has already been steamed and set in the jig. The outer stringer has to be put on using glue only and , so no nails at all since it has to shaped to the profile of the bulkheads over its entire length hopefully using a jack plane (which don’t like nails). at the ready and glue in hand and away we go,

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

and such

Great idea! 👍 I have several of the type at the bottom of your first photo, some up to about 15" Could mod a couple with wood and cork 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

and such

Please post pictures of and fasteners you use to hold parts, hull joints, while glue is setting up.

6 years ago by Ronald

Forum

and such

Hi Doug, The wooden set are original cork faced cabinet makers I bought when I was an apprentice about 50 years ago. Have only had to once replaced the faces.👍

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

and such

Hi Colin, could be photos of my selection 👍 apart from the wooden ones! Home made or Granddad's? Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

and such

A selection of the I use. I have at least ten of each type and size.👍

6 years ago by Colin H

Blog

1st Gunwhale stringers

First job is to trim all the bulkhead corners so the stringers sit flat against each bulkhead. We can then start to trial fit each side to see what sort of curvature will be needed to steam the stringers prior to final fitting. I decide to make a jig for the stringers to “set” after steaming, I made this jig to accommodate all 4 stringers creating the same curvature, as the minor differences in curve will be flattened out during the clamping process. I used a domestic wallpaper steamer/striper and a piece of 4” plastic drain pipe blocked at both ends with a piece of cloth and steamed for about 20 minutes. The 4 stringers were then placed in the jig and locked into place with wedges and . These were then left for a couple of days to thoroughly dry out After steaming and setting, the stringers were dry pinned to the breast hook on both sides with brass pins, then followed back to the stern drilling and pinning to each stringer to the bulkheads as I went back. Being satisfied with the fit I now removed all the pins and started again from the front and epoxied and pinned each bulkhead on both sides.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Scrumpy 3 (Aerokits Sea Commander)

Ok, so I bit the bullet and got seem epoxy for the hull skins. I had some Gorilla glue but it was suggested that epoxy was better. Damn the stuff took ages to apply, and finding ways to clamp one hull skin with the limited stuff I had was testing my patience. I’ll be honest, I spent nearly an hour just finding ways of securing the hull skin to the frame. Used , masking tape, bits of the kit and scraps to get it secured. Then just needed to wait 16 hours for it to set.....If you want to see some really impressive model making go to Harry Potter World. Hog warts Castle in there is immense. So pics show current state of play with one half of the bottom hull done. Next work will be at the weekend or next week, getting the other side on....

6 years ago by Penfold63

Response

Cabin sides and deck supports

Good building practice. Nice solid baseboard and lots of vertical jigs and holding everything square whilst the glue dries. I look forward to following your build

6 years ago by Dave M

Blog

fixing the hull bottom

The bottom of the hull comes mainly as 4 large pieces of ply - 2 which fit flat on to the frames, and the 2 rear pieces have a nice S curve to make things interesting. Relatively easy to glue with plenty of . The bow structure all slotted together with a little added effort from some screw up large !

6 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Blog

Fairmount Alpine - TUG!

Billings Kit - my 2nd boat build. This time I thought I'd challenge my skills and build a plank on frame boat rather than using an ABS hull. Fairmount Alpine is a 75M Ocean going tug used for heavy duty work. The model is 1:75 scale, so around 1metre long. As I started this some time ago (before I joined this website) I'll put some regular posts up to catch up to where I am now... still not finished! Kit comes with all timber laser cut, brass fittings, instructions etc. Extra purchases of course are the motors / ESCs / and other electronics. This model is large enough to accommodate a few ancillaries such as lighting / bow thruster etc. Although laser cut, some of the joints needed trimming, and I had to use some of my bigger !

6 years ago by Harvey Kitten