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    This is the latest crack at a more compact easily made smoke unit using off the shelf (pretty much) items. I bought a top filling vape tank which arrived today and made an electrical connection base for it to start with. The base is industrial linen (formica,- or you could use hardwood) which is drilled and tapped to 4mm, and also counter bored to almost the thread diam of the bottom of the tank. The counter bore was tapped to 7mm but only to get the tank thread started, as this thread is very fine (7x.25?) and I doubt if you could easily find a tap to suit. Also the tank only has to screw in a small amount to hold it in place for the center electrode to contact (adjustable brass screw), and to trap the neg/pos wire which must contact the body. I made the center contact from a 4mm brass screw which is screwed in from the bottom till it contacts the center electrode (which is insulated from the stainless tank body) Under the head of this screw is the wire for the + (or -) -- also screw has a small piece of silicone tube on the inside over the screw to further insulate it ( don't want LiPo shorts!) and the other lead is under the body where it screws onto the base. I tried it on 2v an 2.5v and it works very well (air being fed in the top (where you normally suck from) and the vapor comes out the adjustable air slots (which are normally the intakes.) If you could make a
    around the intake area you could either direct the vapor into a collector, or reverse this (air through the
    ) and have the vapor exiting the proper way through the mouthpiece (preferable). to make it simpler I am just going to enclose the whole thing, and have the air feed set up through the lid into the element and the exit (tube/tubes) through the top or side of the container. This particular tank must be kept upright to avoid leaks but is small enough to strap to a bulkhead or similar. Have ordered another air pump which hopefully will be better than the previous disappointments! Yay another month to wait!!!๐Ÿ˜ด Looks promising so far though! JB
    8 months ago by jbkiwi
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U
    Cabin partly painted, (tops to paint), mast painted with LED riding light fitted. Second sound unit turned up and both now fitted and working, (with as near as I can find to Detroit 4-53s as fitted to this boat, in the programmed choices). Inner hull in cockpit and some interior painted and steering servo fitted. Props painted bronze (art acrylic metallic). Still waiting for shaft
    s for the motor end of the shafts and some nice little shaft oiler cans (far easier than trying to make them). They have arrived in the country so shouldn't be too long. Off to get some paint tomorrow for the cabin tops and deck, also I have to fit the cockpit side battens which I've already stained and cut. Once the cabin's painted I can fit the windows and grab rails as the stanchions have arrived from CMB. Going to make a quick vid later, showing the sound units operating etc. Still have bow roller and a number of smaller details to go, such as tidying the waterline with a black boot topping and making the name decals (if my printer stops mucking about, - almost time for a new one)! Also have to do the nav, cabin and stern lights, ( have ordered a small adjustable voltage reg to adjust lights. Remote switch for lights is already fitted.
    11 months ago by jbkiwi
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build N
    Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD aircraft wheel
    s (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each
    , then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD aircraft wheel
    s (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each
    , then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Drive shaft tubes are epoxied in but still have to tidy epoxy up and streamline the drive shaft tubes back and front where they leave the hull (see sketch)to avoid cavitation at higher speeds. Struts are same brass strip, wrapped around shaft tube and drawn tight with pliers, then legs cut and filed to size and soldered to hull 'mounts' (again using full length strip and cutting to size and filing later). These will be epoxied into the hull and thick cyno'd to the tube as they are only for decoration. Steering will be by a plastic aircraft cable (40yr old Graupner left-over cable actually) running up past half way to the servo. No new technology here!
    1 year ago by jbkiwi
    CNC boat kits...?
    ".....I have the files to make a dragknife that works with a stanley blade, it is 3D printed and has a steel shaft mounted in ball bearings. Some commercial ones are over 250 quid!....." Sounds like a lot of work. Here is the one I got - I see the price has gone up to ยฃ4.49! This comprises an aluminium housing with a magnetised steel shaft in it mounted on ball bearings, and 15 precision knife blades in carbide - different angles for different thicknesses of material. I have mounted it in a Delrin
    , and it looks as if it will perform perfectly. Lot less time and trouble (and cost) than making your own... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15pcs-30-45-60-Degree-For-Roland-Cricut-Plotter-Vinyl-Cutter-Blade-Holder/131906788936?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I would love to get the plans I drew 'checked out' by a third party who has a precision cutter. My early ones are rather poor - I think I am getting better, but I am still likely to make mistakes. The PT boat would be a good choice - not too much wood and it makes up quite nicely. Of course you would still need to make the fittings - but direction is given on the web site. The figures shown below are cheap Chinese railway figures - about ยฃ2 for a dozen - modded and painted up...
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Hints and Tips.
    They are a really good idea Martin, I've been using them since the 60s in boats and planes. To add to your idea, some other slightly stronger items to try are R/C plane wheel
    s (steel or brass) which are available in different IDs. I found that sometimes the brass terminals (electrical) will split at the bottom if you use a bit much force and can come loose. A couple of wheel
    s hang on pretty well, and don't have any screws sticking out to catch on things. (I've had partially jammed rudders now and again)
    1 year ago by jbkiwi
    Re: The Radio Aerial
    Hi Peter. Thanks for your kind words, the Black & Decker horizontal drill stand is no longer made as it only fits the old style of B&D drills that used a 'yoke and stud' means of fixing to their range of accessories. Most current current drills have a
    that is used for attaching to accessories and they are utterly useless ๐Ÿ˜. But if you have an old style drill you can still get the attachments on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Black-Decker-Horizontal-Drill-Stand/264280430020?hash=item3d885755c4:g:1O0AAOSw68ZcsKPF. You can also find the vertical stands there, and old style drills too! B&D also made a wood turning lathe attachment. A very rare item. I have considered a small engineering lathe but I don't have room in the workshop for one and with a couple of exceptions (thanks bro) I've been able to get by without one. ๐Ÿ˜
    1 year ago by robbob

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