Current Website Support
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal πŸ…
Subscribe for your gold medal πŸ…
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Sorry Burman , but your cryptic posts in different threads are confusing us πŸ€”πŸ€“ We'd love to help but we need to know what you are trying to do!! What is the boat or ship you are building? What RC equipment / modules have you built in already? I believe you have maybe a problem coordinating a sound system with other RC
    ? Please confirm, or correct my assumption! Please describe for us all the RC modules you have on board and the RC system (TX and RX) that you are using, and what does not work as you had expected πŸ€” Best regards, Doug 😎 PS Re your Post "Help help Need some advice about set up with jjc got slave with steam whistle fine.when plug steam sound with lead all goes pear shaped been trying all combos but no joy .Very annoying. Need some advice cheers .colπŸ€”πŸ€”" Would be better Burman if you posted your questions on this problem under one thread only; in this case perhaps using the Topic RC and Electrical?
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Fast attack craft
    Hi Martin, "It will need to be bigger for RC." Actually I don't think so. There are so many mini, micro, pico, RC
    available these days, look at the Deltang RXs etc for model railways for example! http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ I managed to squish two 385 motors into a sub hull WTC only 5.7cm (2.25") wide. Electronics, except ESC (visible next to the battery forward of the engine room), into a similar, but tapered, compartment in the bow. So motorisation and RC must be possible with your boat with 4.25" beam. But in your case, as you say you have no possibility to get to a sailing pond😭, I s'pose static models is the only solution ☹️ But can also be a source of satisfactionπŸ‘πŸ˜Š Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Hi Red, Just found this on the net. There are two approaches you can try for fixing warps in plastic. The first is to simply clamp the parts and adhere them with adhesive. I prefer the liquid styrene cement, which actually fuses or welds the parts as opposed to adding an adhesive to create the bond. Once so fused, they're nearly impossible to separate. Most of your alignment issues can be addressed this way. Most warping issues for these models come when you cut it to allow access for your RC
    . These are usually long cuts along the mid-line of the boat. It is common for the cut parts to see warping along the length, creating gaps in the seam that are unsightly and hard to address via the first method. For these, the solution is to mechanically force the part straight, then heat the plastic up to its Glass Transition temperature for a short time, then cool it off. Polystyrene begins GT between 175-195Β° F (79-91 C) depending on its molecular weight, plasticizers, pigments and fillers. In order to straighten warped polystyrene parts, you need to get the plastic up to that temperature, allow it to settle in the proper shape, and then cool it back down again. There are a number of ways to accomplish this. The safest one for small parts is to use hot water. Simply heat up a bowl of water in the microwave to something around 200F, allow it to cool slightly and then dunk your part. Once the plastic has heated up, it should become more malleable and retain whatever shape it's put into. Dunk the part in cool water to lock in the new form and you're done! You can also use your oven, which allows for precise control of temperature in a larger format. Most sub hulls are going to be much larger than your bowls or oven, so you're going to need to use something like a hair blow dryer or, ideally, a heat gun. This takes some practice, as it's easy to overheat the parts and get warping and distortion, or even burning if you're not careful. Never focus the heat gun on one section for too long. Keep it moving at all times and use broad strokes so that you're heating up a large area. You'll see the part relax into the proper shape. Once it does, let it cool thoroughly before releasing your clamps and checking alignment. Repeat as often as necessary for a great fit. Martin.
    8 months ago by Martin555
    Motor, speed controller
    Cheers Dogdy geezer, I think I have a good idea now of what is needed, cheep, cheerful simple about 18/24” long. I too like
    gear, and will probably use their gear for this project.,,many thanks for your feedback. Cheers , Ken
    10 months ago by KenThompson

    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info