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Re: Painting continued
Thanks for all the nice comment re the finish. I have to say - yes it does take an awful lot of preparation and to be honest I was also surprised at the final colour finish, it still will be flattened with 1500 wet and dry and then a final gloss lacquer after the transfers are added.
Peter Red Oxide? is indeed red oxide and for its final finsh it will be lacquered with a satin finish I actually bought it from Halfords (Simoniz acrylic, see picture). For general information all the other paint work is in cellulose which I use a
and top fill spray gun similar to the one in the picture. I hope that helps.
10 months ago by mturpin013
Re: Chine strakes and hull painting
Graham, the boat is looking great, as others have said a new coat always improves things. I can also confirm the issue with spray tins (Acrylic) as the boat Ive just finiashed for my grandson had the same issue. Im am spraying my crash tender with commercial cellulose using
and spray gun and although the drying time is also an issue in terms of time after a couple of weeks it hard enough to treat with flatting compond to achieve that polished finish
1 year ago by mturpin013
Martin Westquay's Piper Cub ;-)
Any ideas when it should be on its way, Doug? I have to clear a space for it! The Waverley is now upright in the outside store, behind my
and store of Ureol patternmaking block, which I got from a local rapid prototyping firm. It was originally the vac-form pattern for the DB7 dashboard!!
1 year ago by Westquay
It’s time to start looking at some paint preparation as this is something that can be done alongside some of the remaining jobs. I have spent hours glassing the hull and deck and the cabin roofs and then finishing to a standard for the first coats of primer, this was achieved by progressing through various grades of wet and dry from 400 to 800. This gives a good adhesion surface for the first primer coat. As I have said in previous posts I made as many parts detachable as was practical, so on the forward cabin roof (which is in itself detachable) all parts are removed leaving a relatively flat surface to prepare, the underside was masked and then put in the queue for painting. Mid cabin and rear cabin roofs - again all parts were removed and placed in the queue/turntable,
Spraying is a hazardous process whatever type of paint you use, so it’s essential that some sort of extraction is used and an appropriate face mask ( I use a P100 rated mask because it gives the highest level of protection in the widest variety of situations and will filter out 100% of both oil-based and non-oil-based particles.). This can also be used for most of my wood working activities, however; if this isn’t an option for you then I suggest you spray outdoors. My spray booth is made from an old cooker hood mounted in my workshop with a table below. On this I used plain sheets of hardboard which I made temporary fixings to hold a box together. The extraction element was a piece of old clothes dryer flexible 4” pipe which when I’m spraying hangs out of the window.
Back to spraying, I use a
and small spray gun for this size of work so I purchased a litre of grey primer and 5 litres of thinners. I am no professional sprayer but have sprayed a number of cars in the past and I have learnt that once again ”Less is more” so a number of light coats is better than one thick coat that runs, meaning lots of sanding and a repeat performance of painting. First three coats of grey primer applied and I’m pleased with how it’s going. I took the opportunity to spray some of the other parts that were finished while the gun was full of primer. Spraying is one of those jobs which is over before it’s begun yet the preparation seems to take weeks but it always pays off in the end.
Next will be a top coat of Appliance White.