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    Forum
    Fishtailing
    What would cause my little boat to โ€œwiggleโ€ on the pond? I have set the rudder tweaking with rudder settings on transmitter. The boat on a straight line course will wiggle or fishtail. I can post more photos from my
    computer
    , this IPad has limited photos of the model.
    1 month ago by Ron
    Forum
    Workshop
    I'm back! ๐Ÿ˜Š Keep the cheers down a bit lads (and lass๐Ÿ˜‰) think of the neighbours๐Ÿ˜ Switched on the PC and spent half an hour or so twiddling me thumbs while the latest MS cock up patches were downloaded and installed!๐Ÿ™„ "Configuring Windows DO NOT switch off
    computer
    - or throw it out the window!!" Didn't get the fence wood either๐Ÿค” Everyone else, his brother and his dog had the same idea to go to the DIY centre todayโ˜น๏ธ Did get the groceries though, so now off to make me a chicken Madras! ๐Ÿ”ฅ CU later ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U
    Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your
    computer
    and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc. The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable. There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box. This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions) Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true) Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there. I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere. For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available) John B
    10 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    I used one years ago called Rhinoceros, which boat builders were using. It is 3D and a lot of fun. Does rendering and has a library of std shapes (polygons, triangles, splines etc) which you can grab and contort into anything you want. Been meaning to see if it will work on my new
    computer
    , (I took it off an earlier machine as it took too much memory to run) and never put it back on the next machine. The machine I have now would run it no problem if it was compatable with 8.1 (must drag it out and try it) my older machine is on Vista so it may work, Used to work on 2000 but might be too old now which would be a shame.
    17 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Well I have spent most of the afternoon trying to get my head around this CAD program. Slowly losing my temper So I decided to put the laptop away before I threw it out of the window. Me and
    computer
    s are definitely not the best of friends. A lot easier with this iPad. Martin555.
    17 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Problem with the modern world is its expensive. Back when I started modelling with my dad in 1955 kits could be bought for shillings, my aerokits fire boat was 35 shillings(ยฃ1.75) Now the same kit is over ยฃ200. I can buy a car at the auctions for less. It's the money grabbing manufactures pricing us out of the world of modelling, even though it costs less to produce now than 40 years ago. Mostly done by
    computer
    controlled robotic lasers, even the packing is automated. My 5 year old grandson is mad on lego, and is just getting started with mecanno, both my wife and I enjoy watching his modelling, and his imagination is a wonderful thing to see. He is also a keen boater with two rc boats of his own, and he is also leaning to control my large scale tugs. I'm sure if we persevere he'll be a fine modeller of the future. Cheers Colin.
    17 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Problem is that we are all living in our past and the young ones today have too much other electronic stuff to play with. People can't go anywhere without a phone in their hands and using their spare time telling everybody what they had for lunch that day. I tried to get my son interested in planes but he was more interested in
    computer
    s, (built his own big gaming
    computer
    with water cooled everything, fans and lights everywhere for around $4000 ) and he and his friends play games against people on the net from all round the world. As WQ said they can buy anything off the net, so why spend all that time staying inside, building a model when you can buy a nice ready made one which you know will work. A good example of how they look at models was, - I was flying one of my planes one day when some young guys turned up with a new Kyosho Calmato. They had no idea how to fly it so I tried to give them a few ideas (like taxi round for a start for a few hrs to get the hang of it on the ground) but no- straight off, full up elevator and into the ground. They all went running over with their phones, laughing and taking pictures. Made no difference the plane cost around $500 ( they all turned up in flasher cars than mine) and they just picked it up and threw it in the car, (could have been repaired quite easily but they were going to bin it.) We had to make do, but young people just have so much choice and disposable income, they don't know what to buy next. You only have to look at how they treat a nice car these days, most just thrash them to death and buy another one. Everything is disposable today.
    17 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Motor reversing
    Hi peter, Attached a pdf of the allowed frequencies here. You'll notice that the UHF 433MHz frequencies mentioned somewhere amongst this sub stuff haven't been available for RC here since 2008! Lower French frequencies? Puzzles me. Attached is also the UK and European 40Meg chart and channel numbers. Both bands start at 40.665 !? Possibly some rogue channels in France. The French ALWAYS do their own thing๐Ÿ˜‰ Surprises me that you can run a 35Meg set on a 40Meg crystal! Wouldn't have thought that the rest of the circuit would resonate properly. (Psst! Don't tell anyone but when I first came here all I had was a 35Meg Sanwa set. I used it for my destroyer cos I didn't 'ave nowt else, until I could afford to buy my first Graupner MC-10 '
    computer
    ' set.) Quantum leap๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Skipper and mate.
    Hi DG, Here are a few photos from a book that I have. Showing the process that I use. It might be useful. I also use a digital magnifying camera linked to my
    computer
    for the small detail work. Martin.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    No, Doug, I don't think it caught on with VW, although M-B made a lot of it later with a very crude version and I didn't really think anyone would OK the replacement of an air bag with a glass screened monitor! Daft idea! The CNC machined carrier for the rear central arm rest mounted
    computer
    was 10,ooo Dm of work and even that had a glitch that had to be filled with metal powder filled resin and covered with a small sticker! The PCs in the boot were intended to be miniaturised, of course, but Siemens and VW fell out, so none of it ever happened. I couldn't find out how to remove the automatic gearstick, so I sawed the bugger off! Took a team of "mechanics" a day to come down from Wolfsburg and replace it! But, all in all, it was the best contract I had in Germany. Martin
    1 month ago by Westquay
    Forum
    3D Printing.
    HI Martin - think a lot of modellers buy cowl vents, guns . bollards , lifebelts , anchors etc , and for instance when building liners or similar large ships you find you have to make several hundred of the same item , easiest is to cast them from an original - so the 3d printer is just another tool - the same way the Laser is. What has made a real difference is the
    computer
    assisted drawing programs like Corel and Autocad . Without them the 3d printers & Lasers would be useless. In Corel and most others for instance you can zoom in to a drawing up to 45,000%. Gives you spurious accuracy as you could never actually cut that closely. Our laser for instance the cutline is about .3mm so when cutting small items you actually have to increase the size of the cutfile at narrow sections to allow for the width of the cut .
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    3D Printing.
    I had never mastered CAD until I found Designspark Mechanical, a free download from RS. It is so easy to learn and there are loads of tutorials on you tube. There is something immensely satisfying in drawing something up on the
    computer
    then watching it appear before your eyes. Learning Designspark and making the parts for my MMS went hand in hand, so instead of measuring off the plans and drawing on to ply or plastic sheet, I measured off the plans and re drew into CAD then printed the results. If you think anyone would be interested I could do a start to finish thread to demonstrate.....
    2 months ago by Nickthesteam
    Forum
    3D Printing.
    I must admit I have been looking on utube quite a bit and have seen a lot of tutorials. I have also seen the results that some friends have done, and I am extremely tempted but me and
    computer
    s are not the best of friends. I could spend hours and hours making a small thing for my models then I have tried to draw something simple on a CAD program and made a right pigs ear of it. I know that practice is the key but patience with a
    computer
    is a different thing. Martin.
    2 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Bit of an update on my CNC router. All up and running now and I am well chuffed with the results. I abandoned the Arduino based controller and opted instead for a Duet 2 WiFi board, a 32 bit controller with on board drivers. The machine can be loaded with a job directly from my
    computer
    /laptop/mobile phone and progress monitored from same. I have also added a 7 inch Paneldue touch screen display for when my daughter is hogging all the internet bandwidth. It has been going for a couple of weeks now and I haven't stopped making stuff, all for other folks! I need to find some DXF files for model boats now. I have a set of plans for a Lysander aircraft that my mate wants me to cut out for him, so far my efforts to convert PDF into useable vectors have come to nought.
    2 months ago by Nickthesteam
    Forum
    Coming soon.
    First introduced to Monty Python by a workmate who showed me a tape of them when they were at university and doing skits on the university stage. A friend of his in the UK sent him the tape which he'd filmed at that show, and was so impressed that he had to share it. One of the skits was something to do with a Wang
    computer
    (we actually had the first one in NZ at the surveying company I worked at - used for survey calcs by the only guy in NZ who could operate one) and something to do with them coming home and finding someone had stolen it, or as they put it "someone's ripped my Wang off". Still remember that from around 73/4. Funniest, most clever group of guys ever, and will never to be emulated again unfortunately.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Guidance for newcomers to the site :-)
    "when you go back your blurb has gone and you have to re-do it?" Are you using the Mobile App JB? I don't get this phenomenon on the PC! See attached pic of me on the
    computer
    as proof. (Download and display in your photo / graphic viewer to see the GIF animation๐Ÿ˜‰) Elle es ne pas vu!
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: WTC/Sub Driver.
    Go for it Peter ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜Š As my German friends might say (with a wry smile๐Ÿ˜‰) 'Es wird schon schief gehen!' Literally 'It will go wrong already!' ๐Ÿ˜ฎ Meaning in a curious wry sorta way 'Do it, you can't go wrong!' But when you have it finished and working you'll need to get- A waterproof video camera, preferably remote control and low-light capable, Telemetry and video capable feedback modules and display unit, Optional VR headset to see what the sub is 'seeing' in real time ... ๐Ÿ˜‰ It's much like buying a
    computer
    , then you need- Display, Printer, Router / LAN hub, Optional WLAN Optional external drives for back ups / mass storage ... You have been warned ๐Ÿ˜Š But it's a lotta fun๐Ÿ‘ Both the challenges of the build / outfitting and the sailing Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Invalid Files
    Hi Red, I must admit I would not like to run a site, I struggle to operate a
    computer
    . And I think that Stephen dose an excellent job of running this site and sorting out the problems. Martin.
    3 months ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Aero-Naut Classic
    Great post fantastic project - most of use Li-Po batteries without any issues allbeit in portable or laptop
    computer
    s, some cell phones, portable chargers and elsewhere. Heck, a standard alkaline 1.5 or 9 volt battery can cause issues if not properly used or placed under stress. But - Iโ€™ve made mistakes myself and come close to bad issues using power sources improperly or without heeding instructions such as using them full out without allowing them to cool. itโ€™s all about using caution and precautions, understandably accidents do happen though
    2 years ago by Brucef102
    Forum
    Invalid Files
    Hi Doug - not all of us possess dumb phones - still use a desktop PC - not a laptop either. I see it was not I that was wrong ! Stephen - know that
    computer
    s don't do what you want them to do- only what they want to do. Worked as a systems analyst for a few years - could not wait to get back to being a boring accountant ! No need for apologies - think its a thankless job when you only get moans when you get it wrong - never praise when you get it right
    3 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Abergavenny steam and vintage show.
    Hi Colin . would be quite reluctant to admit how many half finished boats I possess - shall we say quite a few, at present there are about 15 completed that are still with me . Gave my grandson a large Ripmax speed boat - loves it but restricted to their swimming pool which is a bit small. (lots of home pools in SA). Making up a kit from a Graham Goodchild design to build with him when he visits in August. - easy and a more appropriate size. Tried to get my son interested but he was among the first of the IT generation - so
    computer
    s got him to the extent its now his life's work. Did not help when aged about seven he fell into the harbour at our clubs dam whilst running my Rhodesian Patrol Boat - very proud of not getting the transmitter wet - but embarrassed and seemingly lost interest after that. Now he is a lot older and moving with work to Seattle it might be easier to get him interested as its got a lot of sailing places around............. Saddest loss was a boat given by an old friend of the family - an aluminum hulled motor yacht driven by a Taycol "Star" via the then usual 4 1/2 volt cycle lamp battery. Saw the same hull on Ebay also with a Star fitted some years ago but was unable to come up with the 50 odd quid they wanted. Think it possibly could have been a Basset Lowke yacht hull available in those long ago days , to fit out with your own deck & superstructure as our old friend did.
    3 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    how did your sailing day go?
    Open day to day at South Shields model club, And the SUN came out just for us - a few more pics to follow when I find where they are on the
    computer
    :-) Anyone interested that's Don Walkinshaw's Bluebird with a home made jet engine. Pisces II owned by Bob Kirtley and this held the World Speed record for steam powered hydro plane at 122 mph (tethered) John
    3 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration.
    Hi there folks, a little late, but now we'll under way. The Hull was stripped and stabilised as it had quite a bit of delamination, once solid I coated with 0.03mm glass cloth and Eze-Kote. Then primed with filler primer, followed by a good rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry. Primed again and rubbed down between coats, 4 coats. Top coat is Fiat caprice blue, 6 coats wit rub down with 2500 wet and dry between first 5 coats then I used G3 rubbing compound. It's now ready for lacquer. But I have to rebuild the cabins first. I have fitted the new propshaft, prop, water pick up and outlet. Also the new rudder. Have cut away the old diesel engine mounts and made a platform for the Taycol Supermarine motor which was rebuilt and modified by RNmunich (Doug). Was hoping to get her ready for the steam and vintage show at the end of the month. Some way to go but I have a goal and will try to achieve it. Cheers Colin. PS. I can't get the pictures to upload from the app. I will try to use the
    computer
    tomorrow.
    3 months ago by Colin H
    Response
    Re: HMS EXETER.
    My Exeter is a type 42 Destroyer. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to scan and being old school I can only just work a
    computer
    . I have no details of her that I can post as she was sold many years ago. I seem to end up selling my boats mainly to fund the next one and as I have no transportation to get me anywhere to be able to sail them. I end up just ballasting and testing them and that's it. Also as I am not a member of any club the only thing that keeps me interested in this hobby is being able to message members like your self, and by looking at all of these fantastic models that other members have made. Martin
    3 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints & Tips
    I think a hints and tips section would be a good idea. Not only will it help fellow modellers but hopefully it will encourage the new Guys to the hobby of model making. We a losing so many skills these day as the younger generation seem to play
    computer
    games instead of using there hands to create something and to master some new skills. Martin.
    4 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Model Boat crew....
    I think I understood that - it looks as if using
    computer
    s is getting very close to being a general option for people instead of being an approach that only specialists would consider. I have successfully made up a CNC cutter and am starting to use it to cut model boat parts. I had no prior skill in that field and it cost me about the same as a Billing Boats Absalon kit. If people will put their work up on the web for free download then we can create a very useful resource for the modelling community. All someone who wanted a 1:8 scale winch would need to do would be to download the file and take it to the local library or MakerSpace for a cheap replica. I think that this is the way things are going, although the model parts companies are going to be very unhappy about it...
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Model Boat crew....
    I may have not made it clear but when I say you can make figures in Make Human they only exist in the
    computer
    (not physical items). All the programs make things on screen only but between them you can end up making a file that you can load onto a 3d printer and make the physical item. I had a go at it and then left it . I would now have to start the learning curve again. (Edit) I just thought you probably mean physically do the sculpting. I guess with the right skills that would work. My mistake. Les
    4 months ago by lesfac
    Forum
    New Website Has Finally Arrived!
    Hi Michael, Try changing your browser! Even try rebooting your
    computer
    ! Cheers, Ed
    5 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    New Website Sneak Peak
    Hi Stephen. Congratulations on the successful transition to the 'new look' website. After a quick stooge around the site my first impressions a very good. I'm viewing on my tablet at the moment and everything seems to work ok on that, and I'll try it out on my mobile and desktop
    computer
    soon. I have a build blog update to add later today so it will be good to see if that has changed much. Well done ( can't find the thumbs up emoticon??). Rob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    "... I dare say that with the necessary
    computer
    skills it probably would be easier,however it would be quite difficult for me to hold cardboard templates against a monitor screen. The whole ethos of what I do is somewhat Luddite in nature,to use basic tools,free materials and as little technology as possible...." I'm not sure where the cardboard template comes in? if you want to put it into a
    computer
    you use a scanner - if you want to take it out you use a printer. They are usually the same machine... I'm not dissimilar to a Luddite - the KK EeZeBilt sites are all about making things from raw materials and using household detritus to create fittings. But
    computer
    s are just another tool - and can be as basic as you like. I still lament the passing of DOS, because I felt that you should understand how tools work before you use them, and Windows made it impossible to know where all the bits were going... One advantage of computing technology is communication. You are illustrating this at the moment. All I was thinking was that your skills, experience and work could reach a much wider group of people. There are, for instance, kids in Australia building EeZeBilts because the data to do so is on the web: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAHJbJieV0o
    6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    I dare say that with the necessary
    computer
    skills it probably would be easier,however it would be quite difficult for me to hold cardboard templates against a monitor screen. The whole ethos of what I do is somewhat Luddite in nature,to use basic tools,free materials and as little technology as possible. As we spiral towards a total reliability on technology and
    computer
    s I want to demonstrate what can be achieved with basic inexpensive stuff that most people throw away. Am I living in the past? dreaming of days when things were simpler? absolutely,I exhibited at Makers Fair in Newcastle in 2018, of over 300 other stalls there was only a hand full of us that actually made anything, everything else was technology based and made in China. Cheers.
    6 months ago by mactin
    Response
    The motor cover.
    Could you have fitted a small
    computer
    fan inside the engine compartment to cool the motor and put another grill on the end of the engine cover for the fan to remove the heat from? if this makes sense to you, I know what I mean but unsure if you would understand what I mean.
    6 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    RC circuit
    Since your going to replace your Tx and Rx consider a
    computer
    radio like the taranis. Each of your rudder servos can be on its own dedicated channel as can the ESC for each motor. Using the built in mixing functions you can "tune" the setup so as to get the effects your looking for plus you can do things like both rudders moving in opposite directions to give a brake effect. Setting up the mixing looks difficult but once your into it, it follows a logic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g&t=21s
    6 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hi Pete, About RNinMunich (Doug). He was having
    computer
    problems a while back. And was off line for a bit! And is busy as of late! I will email him and tell him you asked about him. And send your Regards! Ed
    6 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Its really quite simple modern radio systems are
    computer
    ised so you can do all the mixing you want from the transmitter. No need to buy mixers for the receiver end. Setting things up the first time you do it is confusing I agree but once you have a grip on things it becomes more simple. The good thing about using a modern system is that you can change things on the fly and even have different mixes selectable on the same model and change while your sailing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g there is a video so you can see what I am talking about.
    6 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    You don't need the manual for this bit. Have you found the lead and plugged it into your
    computer
    . If you have then in the file system of your
    computer
    you should see another drive listed (will most likely be the name of your camera). Open that drive and look at the list of folder names possibly 'Pictures' or 'DCIM'. When you have found the folder containing your pictures you can go through them and find the ones you want to copy over to your PC. Steve
    6 months ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    Frequently the camera has a 'micro USB' connector on it. if you plug a lead into that (should have come with the camera, or buy one on EBay) and connect that to your
    computer
    you will probably see an extra drive - which will be the camera, and on this will be your pictures. If you tell us the name/model of the camera, we can easily find the manual on the web. This will give you all the information you need about loading pictures from it....
    6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Engine Room Refit Completed!
    Sorry about that Michael, I wasn't ignoring you! I was away from the
    computer
    ! I will take pictures tomorrow and details I'm not happy with the setup. The smoker came with 2" pigtails! Not enough wire so had to solder. Heavy gauge wire to the pigtails! This is all I had at the time! It came out sloppy! I will have to redo. Once I get thinner gauge wire! But, after all was soldered it all worked! And NO magic smoke! Except for the smoker...โ€ฆ.. Brand new replacement motor. Worked a charm!
    6 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    ".......If you have a
    computer
    , they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "Paint" or use paint.net.... Take the image and open with Paint, then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save........" The fully-featured Open Source image processing package is called 'The Gimp'. You can download it for free, and it enables you to perform any image manipulation process you like - matching professional packages like Photoshop. I use it to create full drawings of vintage model boat plans which are often sent to me as a set of partial A4-sized scans. These can easily be re-sized, rotated, matched up and stitched together to make a full-sized drawing. For example, look at any of the Stirling plans on my Old Boats website: http://oldboats.tk/Sterling1.html
    7 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Collin, What a great project... I have recently been taking small images and blowing them up by selecting smaller areas, say the cabin roof only, then printing that on A4. Usually these files have high enough resolution to make some very readable files. if you have a
    computer
    , they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "Paint" or use paint.net.... Take the image and open with Paint, then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save. Be sure you save under a different name so as not to loose the original file. I may be giving you information that you already know, don't mean to insult.. See my photo of some I did last night, pasted about six together to see the 1M boat sections. These are rough as they come from an image only 16cm wide, but good enough for me to build from given some drafting. Good luck with the build, I will be watching. Joe
    7 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Can't stop adding stuff
    Thanks Joe, look forward to that. Been looking at some commercial ones but they're **** expensive and some are too tall to fit in some of my ships. I have several of those small 5V
    computer
    fans in my stash, saved from obsolete PCs. I always saved the fans and the PSUs and various cables. The ribbon cables and various connectors can come in very handy, esp. in smaller vessels ๐Ÿ˜‰Also have plastic, alu and brass tubes of various gauges up to 10mm. About to experiment with some small ones for model railways. Will have to build box and fan etc round them. Ciao, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS No sea trials here either, everything frozen for weeks ๐Ÿค”
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    What you need is a box, your nichrome wire a wick from coal oil lamp a small fan from a
    computer
    , wrape the wire around the wick put in the oil and the fan will blow the smoke out the stack
    7 months ago by captaindoug1
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with
    computer
    extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm
    computer
    screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    10 months ago by teejay
    Forum
    Sailing Barge plans help
    Hi Joe, Just happened to be trolling by the
    computer
    when it honked! ๐Ÿ˜ Glad it was useful, don't forget the Build Blog ๐Ÿ˜‰ Have fun, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Streamline Models
    Sorry for not being active for the last few months, I have a little issue with chronic pain. now some say I am a pain in the a## But half hour segments are all I can give to models, lots of stuff on the launching cradles but nothing quite ready for the champagne bottle,"very frustrating" Anyway, I have had a chance to sit at the
    computer
    and so far, it looks like you guys are well on the case looking to contact Streamline!! ONETENOR. I hope the blood pressure is under control, it is one of those nasty medical issues that creeps up on you without giving outward signs. I wish you good luck, health and a smile!! looks like you got the closest, with the second link you posted:- https://www.google.co.uk/search?biw=1096&bih=494&ei=HDgKW8ak... Little-Charlie: Did you ever make voice contact? with the link "onetenor" posted? looked like its possibly a distributer (?) but they look like they sell some product under the "streamline" name.
    9 months ago by pugwash1
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Hi Toby, that's exactly why I do not use a 'Dumbphone' for such things. I also have a Samsung so called smartphone, I use it for telephoning (now there's novel) and SMS and occasional snapshots if I don't have a real camera with me. First thing I do with a Smartphone is dump all the the bl***y pre installed Apps that I don't need and just take up memory space or constantly try to 'Call Home' and demand updates๐Ÿ˜ก As you have discovered; it's the Apps that are smart (or not๐Ÿ˜ฒ) and NOT the phone itself. Like any
    computer
    ; 'Rubbish in = Rubbish out'! Before I left UK to work in Germany I worked for a year or so with the then Home Office Radio Regulatory Department and the then 'start up' Vodafone on Acceptance Test systems for the phones and surveying for cell sites. it was pretty clear even then, reading between the operating software lines, where things were going! My first job here in Munich was reprogramming a test system for mobile phones so that it actually did what was needed to simulate the network and prove all functions of the mobiles. Searching for cell sites with two great guys from the Home Office labs was a lot more fun - but the Germans paid better ๐Ÿ˜ As you rightly noted 'Ich bin ein Nachteule'! Aber jetzt reicht's mir auch! Gute Nacht, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) MTB 49
    Scratch built Thornycroft MTB from a 1960s Vic Smeed plan. Boat is 40yrs old from start till now. Bought plans in 1968 and finished 20 yrs later working on and off. Was twin prop with single Futaba ESC, on 27Mhz then an Electronize ESC on FM 40 Mhz now have just converted it to twin car ESCs and added a sound unit and is now run on 2.4 . Has a 100mm 12v
    computer
    fan for cooling with heat sinks on the motors. Has separate cabin lights and running lights. (Motor: 380 27MM) (ESC: CHINA) (5/10)
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-lengths-between-ESC-motor-ESC-battery may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these
    computer
    radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. it's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of
    computer
    radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Equipment wire
    Redundant
    computer
    ribbon cables are also a good source, providing many colours. Even the connectors are useful for non essential stuff like lighting. ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    1-35 scale S100 schennllboot
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with
    computer
    extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm
    computer
    screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    1 year ago by teejay


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