Forum

Help with vintage rc.

Hi there fellow boaters, I have just acquired a vintage model fitted with a futaba digimax 4 reciever. What is the chance of it working with any other type of transmitter, or do I need to buy a vintage digimax 4 transmitter. Does it have interchangeable s. I could change all the electrics but would prefer to keep it original. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Colin.

4 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Help with vintage rc.

I think the Digimax had interchangeable s - but didn't it also have 4-wire servos? if so, you will need a full Digimax set.... In general, it is not a good idea to use Vintage equipment unless you know what you are doing. The kit will be old, could need maintenance or repair (which may not be easy to source) and will have less range, reliability and interference rejection capability than modern sets. it will be 27Mhz. You may have to repair the electronics yourself. If you source a transmitter which SHOULD work with it, but doesn't, you will need expert attention to determine what is wrong - again, this will be hard to find. I assume that you do not know if that receiver works at the moment.... Running vintage radios is rather like running vintage cars. They look great when they are operating properly, but need a lot of work to maintain, and do not perform as well as modern kit. One source of help might be the Single Channel and Vintage RC group here - http://www.singlechannel.co.uk . They have specialists in old equipment...

4 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Cabin roof hatches

Hi Boatshed, I have used cascamite on some of the older boat restorations, but they are mainly for display boats, but it's rather expensive for most modelling jobs, so now tend to stick to using epoxy and the best one in my humble opinion is from the poundland shop, it dries quite quickly and clear, I've even replaced port holes glazing with it. (it features Tommy Walsh on the package.) Comes in a syringe, so really easy to use. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

34'' RAF Crash Tender Windows

Absolutely Martin, 👍 As I did with my Sea Scout above, with 3mm tinted perspex. There are such wonderful clear acrylate plastics available these days in various thicknesses from 0.5mm up, and scratch resistant, it's dead easy to make super windows. Takes a bit more time and effort that's all. Just use the frame 'oles as a template to mark up the window 'glass'. If 'time is of the essence' (as the lawyers say) then just buy an ARTR or RTR in the first place. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby King receiver clones

Mornin' John, I've used 'Generic' s with my ancient Sanwa 35 Meg set with no problems. I do find tho that the 'FM' s seem to give better range than the 'AM' s. Check the specs of your TX whether it is AM or FM. Cheers; Doug 😎 DEACS!? My God, when did I last hear of them let alone see one😲 We used to use them in professional personal VHF/UHF radios (Police and the like) some 45 years ago. 400mAh was good stuff in those days! Threw my last examples out about 10 years ago, they had some interesting and quite artistic growths though😉 Was just a brand name for NiCads.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby King receiver clones

Hi Bryan, I have found problems, even with matched s, the usual problem is that the some of the old rx's would not operate with a tx from a different manufacturer. I have acoms, futaba, Fleet and magregor as well as some unbranded tx's, but some of the models which I have aren't working with tx unless it's the same brand as the rx. This problem is mostly on the 27mhz models, although a couple of 40mhz systems have had the same problem. I always buy matched pair s. Even some am sets which never have a problem. So I thought if I can make a chart showing what is compatible with what. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Hobby King receiver clones

Colin I operate all the frequency ranges you mention. in the old 27 Mhz any 27Mhz set work providing the receiver is on the same frequency. The same is true for 40 Mhz each channel will transmit to any receiver within range but you can't put a 27 into a 40 or visa versa. I tend to use half channels as these days I am unlikely to meet anyone using them. Ebay is a very good source of s. The 2.4 gig system work by binding with a receiver and will only obey a signal sent for it. Just like the old game Simon says if that transmitter hasn't given the command the receiver will not obey. I hope that helps Bryan

5 years ago by Bryan-the-pirate

Forum

Hobby King receiver clones

Thanks Martin, I understand about binding 2.4ghz but what really is my problem is the Compatibility of older 27mhz and 40mhz setups, also which s will work in which setups. This is where the compatibility chart will help. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Mahogany in Scale

Neither can I Martin! "The transmitter used two vacuum tubes wired as a multi-vibrator with a tank circuit to constrain emissions to somewhere near the 27 M/cs band (same as MHz, but that name came later). With not a in sight, transmitter frequency drift and battery voltage drain was a problem, so careful tuning just prior to short flights was the order of the day." http://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.html#3 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. it can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look -clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. if you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

Intermittent radio problems

I have a real mystery problem ! Occasionally, one of my crash tender models loses control for no apparent reason. It is running on 40mHz Futaba system. This has been used for a number of years without any probs until recently. I have managed to reproduce the problem in the workshop just once. Effect is that using rudder channel, interferes with throttle channel such that when rudder servo operated the throttle goes completely haywire ! At the lake I have checked to make sure that no one else is on same freq. Most people run 2,4mHz anyway. When simulated in the workshop I have changed receivers transmitters and s and still had the problem. The next day problem had disappeared ! The other kit used in the boat are a Futaba rudder servo and two 30amp Electronise esc's running in parallel. Have checked receiver voltage under load--- no problem with this either. Has anyone got any ideas ? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Rob

5 years ago by robhenry

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Pete piping in here. No, the bulb in my tug is clear overall. Plus, it lights up when a button on the transmitter is pressed. Would a “fuse” do that? I wonder if it’s a carryover from an older pre-LED design or possibly something to do with acting as a resistor for the various LEDs on the pilot house? But that’s strictly a guess on my part. My experience with & understanding of LEDs & how they’re used properly is very, very limited. Pete

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

Which Paint?

A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.

5 years ago by andyhynes

Forum

rising damp

Airing cupboard is best or if you have a cat use the cat litter. But the other problem you will have is the s left on the circuit board from the water will need to be cleaned of the circuit boards in the servos etc. Before you use them again or they will keep shorting out.

5 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Response

Racing Sloop (no name yet)

Thank you, Bruce! I normally build boats using Styrene sheets since I don't like to get into the epoxy business. I know others work a different procedure by using clear lacquer and are able to waterproof and give that -like looking appearance. Any ideas you or any other shipmates may offer to this humble swabbie?

6 years ago by Krampus

Forum

What paint type

Hi Scotty (How are the dilithium s doing? 😉) Was expecting one of the vintage boat / Fireboat modellers to jump in here! Since no one did here's my two-pennyworth. Basically I consider the actual paint as cosmetic and not primarily to seal out water. Unless you want to use 2 part epoxy paints, which are not so easy to handle🤔 I used it on my U26 sub and it was pain in the you-no-where. First I would use sanding sealer inside and out. Then EzeKote or ClearKote inside and out. Especially where you want to let the planking shine! 👍 From Deluxe Materials - available Down Under from - see pic. this toughens the hull and gives added protection against knocks and bangs. Many of us then paint the inside with Hammerite, colour and texture, hammer or smooth etc, personal choice. This looks neat and is easy to keep clean. Out side acrylic is the easiest and most pleasant to use; water based so the painting tools are easy to clean with warm water and no dangerous to health or inflammable solvents. Easy to airbrush too😉 When the colour coat is finished and good an' dry you can then apply an acrylic clear lacquer coat, matt, silk or gloss as you wish. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

RC Boats in salt water

Hi Grandpa I agree with canabus, but toy boats may not have oiler points on the prop tube and to protect the shaft and bearings I suspect you would need to remove the shaft after each sail and run fresh water thro the prop tube to remove all the salt which will otherwise dry and ize. The salt s will then act similar to sandpaper and ruin the bearings, I know I speak from experience!😭 Once clean let the water drain then lube and spray as suggested. I do hope the boys are able to enjoy their models Regards Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Glazing help

Hi Doug It's not ordinary resin, but clear casting resin, wot they use to encapsulate bugs etc. Also used by modellers to represent lakes and rivers etc. It is very runny and thin. Best part is its UV safe so won't discolour in the sun - if you are lucky enough to have any! Cheers Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Glazing help

Hi Doug I used a trader (Steve Tranter- Model Boat Bits) to get the waterjet cutting done. The machine needs programming and I provided a spread sheet with the dimensions and they produced the file and did the cutting. As we were building two large models this was the only way we could get the project finished on time. I have been experimenting with clear resin to produce portholes for a Confiance Class tug I am building. I made portholes out of brass on the lathe then filled the centre with the clear casting resin. I had bubbles in the initial attempt but by using a syringe and flicking the tube the bubbles all go to the top of the syringe and the result is to my liking. I do paint the portholes first. When dry I just glue in the fibreglass hull with epoxy. Mine are near the waterline and whilst cyano would work I don't trust it when wet as experienced with the Olympic. You could drill and fill your portholes with this, just need to place a blanking plate behind each porthole til the clear casting resin sets. I suspect this would be quicker than using acetate. incidentally I used to cut my acetate portholes with a heated brass tube. I used a piece of stainless rod inside the tube to push the portholes out. Cheers Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Glazing help

Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. it's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces. Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal. "Glue 'n' Glaze Model AD55 50ml For making clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips." Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉 To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Best Tx systems for boats

Hi All, don't think that that is quite what Nick meant! Most TX/RX sets nowadays are full of tricks and mixers for the fly boys; first setup question: 'Fixed wing or rotary?' for example! So - Nick: essentially it doesn't matter what you use (except the 35MHz rule of course!) but modifying all the aircraft mixer routines to suit boats is not for the faint hearted or novice. Therefore for your purposes I would recommend a relatively simple 2 to 4 channel set intended for trucks and cars. That gives you the basic control functions, including motor reverse, plus possibility to control a few specials, lighting or sound (horns) for instance. 2.4GHz is the future, but not without it's own pitfalls, as you've already discovered 🤔 I still use my old MC-10 40MHz set; - a) Cos it still works 👍😉 b) it's quick to set up for trials of a new boat or function, 👍 c) the more people move to 2.4GHz the less chance I have of getting any interference! 👍😊 (I have several TX/RX sets anyway 😊 Bought up anything I could find locally the last few years) d) One of my models is a submarine! e) it can also store the setup configuration for 20 models. 👍 f) has no binding rigmarole. 👍👍 Cheers and very happy modelling / sailing, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

No power

Please can't we go back to s so long as you got the same colour away you go.

6 years ago by tidtug

Forum

bargain of the day

Hi Johnfast, This is Doug, alias RNinMunich! 😉 Sorry I'm a Sassenach, originally from Folkestone in Kent, about as far away from Scotland as you can get! 🤔 Shame actually as I have a passion for single malts, esp. Oban, Lagavulin and Jura 😜 By the time I studied engineering (in London, electronics sandwich course with 6 months in industry between semesters) electricity was available pretty well everywhere 😉😉 For us a bolt was something that needed a nut and a couple of washers 😁 BTW; how are the dilithium s!?? 😁 Cheers Doug 😎 Now in Munich, Bavaria. 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Battery problems

Hi Allan Glad to hear you have managed to get the boat running. Just so we know what is the final set up? I can see a 12v 7Ahr battery but What is the prop size & type, brushless motor, ESC. You have mentioned these before but may have bought different recently. Looks a good pool to use. As it is saltwater you will need to wash the model down after each sail and oil the propshaft. Salt s will destroy any bearings very quickly if you don't. Happy sailing Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Dave, Never denied that! Was a general comment about the cost issue, whichever way he decided to go. Anyway problem solved 👍 I still have my 40Meg set, bought up all the local stock of 40Meg s I could find cos I noticed they were becoming as rare as rocking horse droppings. However, have also invested in a Spektrum 2.4 set. One day I'll learn to programme it 😉 Happy sailing Hughie. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Thanks to all of you who gave me some advice. I found out that The on the transmitter was missing. it was in the box, so plug in and great joy! Tears of happiness. I bought this set years ago in Dorchester, Dorset on a trip to see my parents. I think it is a bit cheaper to buy here, but I will compare next back in the UK. Cheers, and thanks again guys, much appreciated.Hughie😎

6 years ago by Hugh

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Doug We don't know that it is a problem. if what you say is true about cost then replacing with a 2.4 set is still worth considering. I do agree however that EU tarrifs make items we buy in Europe dearer than the rest of the world.

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

May be cheapish in the UK but Hughie is in Australia. it's possibly a Xtal problem but may not be so. Hopefully a local source will be able to test the Tx/rx with s at no cost.

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Re buying new s I don't think they are too dear. Last time i looked they averaged £ 6/ 7 For Sanwa and Futaba Xtals

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Just a thought but have you got matching s.It is easy to look and say oh yes got s without checking for a match .Sorry if granny is already sucking eggs.👍😉😁

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Hi Hughie It's possible then that the problem was pre the aerial cutting. Sorry if I was teaching you to suck eggs but it is easier to suggest ways forward if all the basics have been covered. If the set was working some time in the past then I would check the s. if you can move any of the pins chances are it is broken. Over time s can deteriorate for no apparent reason as the internal is encased in a glass vacuum and uses very fine wires for connectors. I appreciate you wish to keep the existing set but if you do have to buy s it may be worth considering a 2.4 combo set (Tx/Rx no servos) as the cost may not be much different and will work with your servos. Cheers Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Futaba Attack 2ER

Hi Hughie I am assuming the set was working before you cut the aerial? You did bare the wires and twist the copper wires together? If it was, have you changed anything else? Did you remove the s and are they in the correct place ie Tx in Tx? I have just repaired a 27Mhz set and the TX had failed for no apparent reason. Replacing with another fixed the problem. If you have or can borrow another set of s at the right frequency and type you can see if they work. Perhaps a local shop may be able to help without you having to buy? From your description the power is ok, the servo moves so is plugged in the correct way. You have used one of the channel sockets and not the battery socket for the servo? Let me know how you get on Cheers dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Futaba antenna

Hi Hugh There are R122JE receivers on E-bay but if I remember correctly they came in different frequencies. 27Mhz and 40Mhz - mine were stamped on a panel at the back of the Rx. Current offerings are about £16 plus postage but that could be costly to you. A new 2.4Ghz combi (Tx + Rx) set can be had for not much more and will work with all your ESC's and servos and doesn't require any s. I would expect there are local suppliers to you so postage should not be a problem. Older 27Mhz equipment is becoming harder and more expensive to source and s are no longer easily available in all frequencies. I know there are many who wish to continue using their trusty equipment but the problem is it is entering into the collectors market and market forces are driving up the prices. As someone who started out making my own Tx/Rx kit initially with valve and all the way up to a 4 channel transistor Tx/Rx I have changed gear many times. I usually pass on my sets to new club members to help them get started but have kept samples of some so I can still test any non working kit. If you repair the aerial as suggested your set should be good for another several years and if it's working there is no need to change. Cheers Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Response

cabin cruiser

Well there doesn't appear to be much water damage and the keel looks solid. Once glued it should paint up well and remain waterproof. The inside looks a bit gungy so I suggest you clean this thoroughly. The connector on the end of the shaft needs replacing with a modern Huco type coupling. Looks like the rudder is missing, if so your local model shop should have a replacement. Have you checked the propshaft for wear? From this era the shaft thread will likely be imperial. 35Mhz is reserved for aerial RC in the UK so not allowed for model boats or cars. Some 35/40Mhz receivers can work on both frequencies, so as long as you are using 40Mhz s and the range is Ok it may be possible. Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Response

cabin cruiser

Hi aeromodeller Welcome to the site. Sounds like a good project. Delaminated wood is not good so I hope your glue and clamps will fix the problem. Is the hull painted? it is usually best to strip back to the wood and cover with cloth and resin all over plus more resin on the inside to keep the water away from the wood. With your timescale this may not be an option, but you could possibly tissue cover the hull with sanding sealer/dope then repaint. Even a coat of dope on the inside will help. You will need a brushless ESC with reverse. if the propshaft is damaged or you can feel play in the bearings it may need replacing or new bearings fitted to the proptube. The rudder will need a servo and you should be good to go. Not sure of the price of s but you can buy 2.4Ghz cheap combo set for about £20 and even the short range will not be a problem for a model boat. A pic will allow more specific support for the model Dave

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

POLARITY

Hi, I´m back . As I can see .. two-pole socket is designed for insertion of a , ( quartz oscillator prism 35 MHz) not as a supply battery - this also may cause misunderstandings. This arrangement was customary for facilities of 80 and 90 years of the last century with interchangeable s. wishing success Tom

7 years ago by tomarack

Forum

Micro servo as continuous motor

Hi Dave Having looked at the video all is clear, though I have a slight advantage with a mental age of 6. Thank you for your help. Cheers Steve

7 years ago by cormorant

Forum

Micro servo as continuous motor

I agree its how you defeat the drive to the pot? I gather you glue it up BUT if the drive pot is not defeated then you will have a stalled servo. instructions that seem clear to you can be down right murky to others. Aim for a mental age of 5 fumble fingers and a ZERO experience of opening a servo. This is the level you need to be aiming instructions at!!! I know people here are NOT 5 and have some dexterity BUT how many are familiar with the internals of a servo?

7 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Website info on Crash Tenders too blurred

There's a heap of research material for this boat on the net without worrying about the blurred photos on this site. Here's one link that may help. it's the MkII version I think and the large photos are clear: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 The plans will be out there for sure.

7 years ago by Johnk

Forum

wanted 40ghz receiver futaba

HI there newbie to this modeling game managed to pickup a transmitter looking for a old type receiver if anyone has one spare thanks

8 years ago by zippot

Forum

wanted 40ghz receiver futaba

Don't bother, just look for a 35mhz but put a 40mhz in it. The receivers are exactly the same just with different badges on them, it is the that Is different. Plenty 35mhz on ebay. However you can pick up a 2.4ghz set so cheaply nowadays it will probably cost you more to buy a receiver and s than it will to buy than a complete 2.4ghz set without servos or batteries

8 years ago by andy_mart

Forum

Round Table Class Sir Kay Minesweeper (1:48 scale by Caldercraft)

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ Some ideas on wiring your RC http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Sir%20Kay%20-%20Harry%20Koostra.pdf including one setup for the "sir Kay" you would need a multI channel tx and rx so you have spare channels to switch on and off the extras. 2 functions are the minimum 1 for motor control and one for steering. The Plantronics tx/rx setups are 2.4MHz and CHEAP with so far good reports. They do however have limited range. I would recommend a 2.4MHz setup since they "bind" rx to tx so obviate the need for s and the problems of waiting for a free frequency. Other companies do sound modules speed controllers and switchers so do a search. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJScXp9NC24 admiralty sound modules demo. Above all take your time have fun and accept you will make errors ( we all do ) you will see your errors when no one else can!

8 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

wanted 40ghz receiver futaba

Ok so we can assume it is a 40Mhz AM transmitter. I should have asked how many channels the TX supports. The basic sets were two channel with the right stick moving vertical and the left moving horizontal but the direction could be the other way round. if the stick moves in both a horizontal and vertical direction then it is a four channel set and if there are other knobs and switched this could expand the set to even more channels. Depending on your set you will need either a two, four or more channel receiver for 40Mhz AM plus a set of Futaba s. The cost of buying is going to be nearly as expensive a a cheap system at 2.4GHz and I suggest you consider exploring this option. if you look on the Howes website you can price Futaba receivers and s and then compare their cheap 2.4Ghz offerings. if you were to ring you will find them both knowledgeable and helpful and it just may help you avoid a costly mistake. Also you can only operate one frequency at a time so if another modeller is using your frequency you have to swop s or wait. 2.4Ghz eliminates this problem and cost so is well worth considering. A picture of your Tx would help as Futaba have been making sets for a long time and some of the earlier sets were not compatible with the more recent equipment. Hope this helps and good luck with your search Dave

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

wanted 40ghz receiver futaba

HI I have checked and the transmitter is a Am transmitter with either 27 29 40 41 72 or 75 mhz it does have one 40.695 mhz in it but is missing the receiver. If I get a futaba receiver that takes any of these s do I just need two of the same s to be able to work the thing Thanks Dave

8 years ago by zippot

Forum

How to sail yachts

Thanks Dave, Sorry for delay in reply, but had problems trying to send replies. Of the 3 R/C sailing boats I now have. I can only see the working part of the sail adjustment in one, which has extended arm on servo with a pulley system. the other 2 aren't visible , only space under hatches for battery access and change. Will try to put some photos on later. Thanks Colin.

8 years ago by Colin H

Forum

help needed 2

HI Sandy, I used to have Futaba FF7 transmitter and regularly used Hitec receivers both single and dual conversion and they all worked as long as you got correct s. However as I said before I did experience the occasional glitch , and I am not talking interference (even using same make transmitter and recover as well as mixed) here which was disconcerting, and why I am now using 2.4ghz. Glad you sorted problem though.

8 years ago by andy_mart

Forum

help needed 2

HI Sandy Thought I might mention that also 35Mhz receivers which are much more readily available are both 35mhz and 40mhz ready but you have to use the correct s I.e. 35mhz s (for use in aircraft only) and just use the 40mhz s (for land or water use only). The only difference in receivers is the label. Like Dave says above if it was me I wouldn't bother with either and go down 2.4ghz route, full sets available for as little as £35.00 and you never have to wait for a frequency and frustrations when s don't work etc . I use 2.4ghz on both aircraft and boats never had any interference problems either that you can experience on 27mhz and 40mhz

8 years ago by andy_mart

Forum

help needed 2

HI Sandy Welcome to the site. Both of the receivers you mention appear to be of USA origin and whilst the Hitec is listed as suitable for 27 - 75 MHz the Futaba appears to be for 75Mhz. As you may know 27Mhz and 40Mhz are the two permitted frequency bands for the UK so use of any outside the bands is not permitted. s are normally sold as matched pairs to ensure maximum range is achieved. Also some sets are for AM and others for FM and are usually incompatible with each other. Different manufacturers sometimes require their own brand s. Finally there are receivers that use double conversion techniques to Improve interference and their s are usually unique to the manufacturer. Assuming you have a set of s in one of the allocated bands you could try and see if they work. Range may well be a problem and a test with the transmitter aerial collapsed should give some indication as to range. if it's much less than 20 feet I would not use. if the signal is weak interference will also cause problems so yours motors should be well suppressed. I have had mixed success wth Hitec receivers and some s in the 40Mhz band so I would not go buying new sets unless you knew they would work. With s costing £12 and new 2.4Ghz sets available for not much more you may wish to explore an update

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Bobdunn

HI Bobdunn. Chuck the receiver away, its not worth trying to buy a transmitter and a set of s to match an old dubious receiver. Purchase the complete set 2.4Ghz transmitter and receiver for about £25 for Howes or Giant Shark.

9 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

Bobdunn

HMMM wonder if he's talking something as simple as missing s if its a 27Mhz receiver or the like. Worth a thought.

9 years ago by Peter47