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    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    10 months ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Progress J-502
    Billing Boats kit, Progress J-502 vacuum formed hull, deck and cabin. Wheel house is very thin wood 2 ply. The kit was missing styrene strips, but the
    deck fittings
    were included. All brass rods, mahogany strips, rigging was in the kit. Added furniture in wheelhouse, navigation lights, windows, and railings and other details not found in the kit. Fun little boat to make and research. (7/10)
    7 months ago by Ron
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Winter seems to encourage modeling, have spent many hours in hibernation working on the deck and superstructure details. A supplier offers a full set of Perkasa fittings, most of which would work on the Brave B. At one point considered buying a set. They are made in both resin and cast metal. Eventually parsimony prevailed, so only purchased a small number of hatch covers and other intricate shapes that would be difficult to make well. The items duly arrived and the quality is good. Was surprised by the weight though, so am pleased had embarked on making the other items from the usual materials. There should be an overall weight saving, along with a reduction in my surplus styrene and wood stock. One of the design tenants of the Brave class was flexibility. The vessel could operate as a MTB, MGB or Raider, or with a mixture of these capabilities. The weapon mountings were designed to allow armaments to be installed and moved around to suite the requirements of the role. Have reviewed many Brave class photographs trying to establish a “standard” armament configuration, to reproduce. Not only does the configuration define the weapons installed, it also establishes the ammunition and flare storage cabinet arrangements. Eventually decided upon the 2 x 40mm Bofors gun arrangement with 2 x 21” torpedoes and 4 x extended range fuel tanks. The model is now essentially complete. No doubt as I keep examining it will add further small details and refinements. Only disappointment so far is that it does not achieve the original weight target of 6 lbs, it is 9.5 lbs. The 6 lbs may possibly have achievable using one screw and motor etc., but once three are installed, not likely. The real test is when finally back on the water. Will close this blog then with a concluding report.
    8 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Book on Sailing Barges
    There are many excellent books on Thames Sailing Barges, but for the modeller, I think 'Handbook of Sailing Barges' by F.S.Cooper and John Chancellor is one of the best. Fred Cooper was a well known Barge Skipper, John Chancellor, a former Merchant Navy Officer, lived with his family on the sailing barge Viper for many years. An accomplished artist, he illustrated this book with excellent line drawings of every aspect of the rig,
    deck fittings
    and construction details. There are usually copies for sale on Amazon and Abe Books. Nerys
    9 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    How to make
    deck fittings
    ?
    What
    deck fittings
    does this boat require? I have no plans, pictures, or related information. Location of fittings. What you see is what I figure makes since. I know some railings and stairs are to scale, but it was what I had to work with without making major investments. Lifeboats have been carved and davits will be done soon.
    9 months ago by Ron
    Blog
    Elizabeth Cabin/superstructure
    The cabin has now been finished off with a well deck, the well deck is made of balsa mostly, and the floor is oly, the well deck floor is lined as planks ( urghh ), firstly scored with a blunt Stanley type knife blade the the plank lines infilled with pencil, the floorboard nail marks are just scored with a sharp pin with a little cyno rubbed in the hole to colour the pin prick, decided to make this as an all in one removal unit, it still has to be glazed and fittings plus furniture, as in windscreen , door's consul etc: .. The deck and all other woodwork has been varnished and the cabin roof painted white, awaiting suitable weather to paint the hull, as this is done outdoors.. Muddy....
    10 months ago by muddy
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    The weather has quickly turned colder, giving an excuse to get back to this model. Stripped out much of the interior and the prop. shafts to replace the nylon propellers with brass. These items all needed removing for painting, so decided to paint the hull before reassembly and then moving onto the superstructure. Fortunately, examining similar naval vessels and several U Tube videos, confirmed the hull as light grey, the deck a darker one of the 50 shades of grey and the lower hull below the waterline black. Used thin Tamiya masking tape to define clean colour separations, followed by regular tape, masked the hull into colour sections and sprayed using “rattle” cans. After the colours applied a light overall Matt coat to subdue any shine. The results are satisfactory. Will now reassemble and move onto building the superstructure and the other fittings. Prior to the season closing decided to experiment with my new Flysky Tx/Rx package, shortly to be fitted to this model. This Tx has a servo limiting function, which was hoping could also be used to restrict ESC output. Would like to make the full speed motor response correspond to full Tx control position. Currently can over power the model; which lifts the stern, causing it to come off the plane and then dig the bow in. Was thinking that if full throttle could be set at around 90% forward control movement and 40% sternwards the model would retain adequate performance, but without being overpowered or very sensitive to control lever movement. As the Brave was not available, tried the idea on my Daman Stan 4207 model. This is brushed motor powered and a good performer. Obviously the settings for the Brave will be different, but at least could try to see if the idea would work – it did! This Tx function is easy to use and adjustments can be made whilst the model is on the water. Once the ideal settings are achieved they can be programmed and then retained in the Tx. Will try this on the Brave when back on the water next Spring.
    11 months ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    105ft Motor Minesweeper
    I am currently fiddling about with 3D printers and as it is high time I built another boat I am going to combine the two hobbies and make the decks superstructure and some fittings on my 3D printers, a Prusa i3 Mk2S and a Tronxy X5S. So far the results are encouraging. The model is based on a 105ft Motor Minesweeper, a wooden harbour/coastal sweeper. About 300 were built and saw service throughout WW2. My example carries the LL magnetic influence sweep but proved under powered for the task and many were converted to carry an acoustic 'kango' hammer for dealing with acoustic mines.
    12 months ago by Nickthesteam
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Found this on British Pathe newsreel footage, but what are they? The light coloured one appears to be a Darby but with no back cover and a flat transom. The others are, I think, Whippets. https://www.britishpathe.com/video/newnham-on-severn-aka-newnham-on-severn-hydroplane Also found a Pathe of a Darby I didn't know of called Bacchus, in colour! Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Hi folks, I've been filling in spaces in the Vincent epic with making
    deck fittings
    for the Chris Craft Special Runabout. I can't find or, probably, afford to get them nickel plated, so I will give the brass fittings to a chum who does casting of white metal, then I can a) get more than one of some and b) burnish them to look like chrome and then lacquer them. I'm assuming there might be a measure of interest in how these are done. I'm afraid I can't tell you how to do these without a lathe, because I've always had or had the use of, a lathe. They can be bought for a fraction of the price of a kit, off ebay. My No 1 son bought a lathe exactly like mine (a Peatol, which is same as the Taig), only on a huge base with a nice big motor, a tool rack to hold every supplied, additional tool they make for it and even the book on how to use it and make even more tools for it, virtually unused, for £200. Similar small lathes can be had for even less. It's the brass that costs these days! Anyway, the trick is to break down the shape to that which can be cut, turned or bent. You can do all those things, so all you need to be able to do is silver solder and soft solder. If you can't yet, learn, sharpish. Silver soldering has enabled to earn a living till I retired. It helped me bring up a family of 5, so it's clearly very useful. I won't describe it in boring detail as these days there's a Youtube for every damned thing if you can tolerate that ghastly delivery that so many of them have. I can't, so I'm happy to answer questions if anyone wants to be told straight what to do. Golden rules....make it totally clean with a Swiss file, have sufficient heat, use the right flux. In silver soldering, just sprinkle the powdered flux on, don't bother making a paste, it'll just fizz and shift your little parts. For this part, one of the various patterns of deck lights/flag pole holders that Chris Craft used, I started by turning the main shape of the bulbous bit to be rather like a thimble. I then cut gaps out of it in the vice with a junior hacksaw, so that it had three legs, oversized for now. Then make a teardrop shape out of 1/16th" sheet and cut a hole in it to match. Why the hole? Well, if this is to cast successfully, I don't need any undercuts or "hooks " in the mould so it has to be hollow. Also, I need to put the light lenses in after it's all finished as these units had riding or nav. lights in them. They also had a small jack staff in the top with a burgee or even a national ensign attached. To make the rather art nouveau-ish back end I made a cardboard pattern of what had to be cut from 1mm brass sheet to be folded, hammered a bit and rolled a bit to fit onto the back of the thimble section. I silver soldered the thimble on first, to make it easy to fit the back rolled and folded bit, which was itself then silver soldered on. After that, it's all down to filing to shape, then as you can see from the pencil lines, cut out the teardrop shaped holes in the back which leave a central spine shape. I would first drill a 3mm hole and then, with the piece in a vice use a dental burr in a minidrill and hand mill it out, but PLEASE make sure it can't slip or you could be the owner of a grooved thumb or worse. Finish with files and papers of various grades. More anon when I do the next bits, although you're already further on than I am! Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. it would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Now Coating and Matting
    On to Coating and Matting. (as well as sanding!) Now have at least finished all the stripping. Then did the ‘bright light in the hull bit’ to look for areas that needed patching. The major problem area was in the bow and that did not receive the light as it is a totally blanked off compartment. However, it was obvious from the outside anyway so, could I assume it was the only leak? Decided to put a fine matt over the whole hull, not deck, just to be sure of best chance of success. I can imagine what will be said here if it still leaks after all this! I had ordered some supplies ready for the next stage and drew up a plan view of the boat to help think through layout of electrics and other items. Made my usual mistakes about size. Some fittings purchased too small………However, never too large now that’s interesting. Some materials purchased too large. Now have a life’s worth of Resin……(when does it ‘go off’ by?) Also have a lounge floors worth of tissue matting! Also Sandpaper. Now there is a mine field. So now I know a bit more about that and which way the numbers work! When I forgot to put the mask on, I had some of the crispest 'bogies' in years.............. No images posted! On the plus side, although I never wanted to get into this stripping sanding, filling sanding, sealing sanding, matting sanding, painting sanding, painting, sanding bit……………. I now feel I started out with someone’s boat I had bought and now it has become “my boat” for real! I am at the stage now where I have put some filler in and applied the first coat of Eze-Kote from DeLuxe Materials To use Eze-kote read stuff from RNinMunich on this blog or the’ leaking boat’ thread. Washes out of the brushes very easily. There is such as this ..... Youtube link - watch?v=yP05qv3QtUk RNinMunich or Colin H. and the like have bits of extra comment and experience that is always very helpful. BTW, after that finer sanding before first coat, I did the dust down and vacuuming bit but it still felt a bit ‘chalky’ so I gave it a wipe with Methylated Spirits. Now I realise that has water in it, so if anything goes wrong it could be blamed on that................. Having left the first coat to dry I started to cut out the light matt to apply after the next sanding. The matting I have is called Glassfibre Surface Tissue EGlass from FibreGlass Direct. A part of Tricel Composites (NI) Limited. Available internationally in lengths from a metre upwards, it is quite fine in weave so we shall see what happens. I have left quite a wide margin at the moment but may reduce that when I have tried using it! This is another first for me so plenty of room for mistakes............... Will need to cover with the matt in stages as I cannot get around all the boat without changing its position. Going for the bottom of the vessel and stern board first as I figure they are going to be easier than some of the other bits. Then will leave that to cure before moving the boat. Really worried about the joins/overlaps and how well I will cope with those, not to mention the curved bit! Started to look at electrics and layout for a bit of a change. I will post again when I have had the first battles with the matting! TTFN. NPJ
    1 year ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Stern Light
    Always listen to any advice am trying the Halfords texture grey on the decks with sea grey roof tops and light grey sides.busy with the deck and roof fittings at the moment still looking for a tow hook and lift Davit might just try to make one but getting right dimensions is the problem. Hope you putting on some photos when complete
    1 year ago by Elsrickle
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    You are incorrigible Neville😲 Well meant by camyaj BUT Cancel that order! And pronto. Waste of money. EzeKote will do all that and a lot more. it sets quicker and is a lot lot cheaper. As far as I can discern from the blurb from 'Captain Tolley' that stuff is primarily aimed at sealing
    deck fittings
    etc FROM THE OUTSIDE of the hull. And that for full size boats!? EzeKote will do that as well. If you use that Captain Tolley stuff to fix an internal leak it may stop the water ingress inside the hull, but not for long, and will definitely not cure the original cause of the leak. The exposed / damaged wood outside will continue to soak up water and expand, delaminate and / or rot. if you don't seal the whole of the inside and outside of the hull the water will just find another way in. Cure the illness. Don't just treat the symptoms! With this sort of problem short cuts just don't work, they only postpone the problem. We've shown you the way. Do it right NOW then you can forget it FOREVER!😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    I was just searching for a model car pattern I made months ago for some mods and I found all the lovely etchings I'd done years ago, pre computer, for Riva and Chris-Craft models. These two pics show two brass patterns for the Riva vents and two of the white metal cast vents, one polished about 20 years ago, one done just now, to show that a well burnished casting will stay looking chrome even without lacquer. Then the two Chris Craft tread plates I had the great, good forethought to draw when I found I had a bit of space on the Riva fret. They are perfect, as are the Chris-Craft side flashes and all the Riva badges, even though they were done from hand drawn artwork, proving that Vector images are NOT essential as the pootah people will tell you. I shall mount these two on the typically wedge shaped base and have them cast. I also found a FUEL engraved cap cover which will go on my Chris-Craft filler. it happens to be bang on size wise! I'm cock ahoop! I knew I had these, but had no idea where to start looking. Thanks Mel for getting me started on the search for your Tecno F2 car, but sorry, couldn't find that devil. I have made some more Vincent bits, been to son's to play on his new steering wheel and pedals racing game ( I managed a whole lap of the proper Silverstone in a Lotus 25!) and dined out with the lady wife. What a great day. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    I also enjoy restorations, Colin...just as much. Every challenge is different. This Chris Craft is a restoration of an Aerokits Sea Urchin that cost me all of 99p. on ebay! But then i thought it would be better made up as a single cockpit smaller runabout, hence the Chris Craft with the steeply tumblehomed stern. My son has an Aerokits PTB and my other son has a Sea Rover. I also have a Sea Urchin and a Veron Veronica yacht, so yes, I do like the restoration of old items. I have a pre War Marblehead in the loft too! I've never been interested in the big ships and service vessels. Only inshore sailing fishing boats and classic speedboats. If I can help you out with any info or techniques, let me know. I have a lot of books on woodies and years as a professional modelmaker to call upon. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Simply superb, you're right about the bits and classic speed boats, but in the model world I think there the best, our best seems likely to be the Fairey range of boats but although quite quick still rather blockish. I have deep respect for modellers who are able to produce such exquisite examples. My humble efforts give me great enjoyment as most of my work involves renovation of old forgotten models when my arthritis let's me. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Colin, these are to fit in with my Chris Craft, which is roughly 1/8th scale, so they just look right. I don't have any dimensions as there are no Chris Craft Special Race Boats in Britain. Not that anyone would dare to question you anyway as nobody gives a toss about classic speedboats over here. We never had those types of boats. The Thames had one or two nice Brookes and slipper launches, but our attempts at speed were never as elegant as the Yanks and were all a bit boxy and unembelished and generally sat upon by authorities who didn't like speed, except at Windermere and Oulton Broad and they were mainly outboard powered with one or two exceptions in aluminium, and paint. Mahogany was strictly for furniture for the English. I will get all these bits cast and will have spares, so if you need any that are among my bits, just holler and I'll see what I can do. May have to charge for metal weight, but that's about it, as I will have to pay for that, even if I can get the bits squeezed in other peoples' moulds. I reckon you could use these on a 1/12th scale model without any doubt being caused. Most boats used two of those vents. A couple of cleats, a light/cum staff holder and screen supports, which I'm also doing but haven't got a picture of. That will comprise left and right, short and central, longer. The glass will slide in cast in grooves. A filler and steering wheel and instruments finish it off. Can't do a bow piece as they are all different and must fit the boat exactly. That's down to you and you can only foil that for the chrome look. Just wait till I have to do some of these! Ain't they gorgeous? Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Super job, I could do with a dozen in 1/12th scale what size would I need to make them, please can you post a sketch with sizes and your scale, I can rescale them. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Here's the bear's claw vent. I got a piece of 1/8th" brass this morning and between chores managed to knock this up. The flange around the edge has to be removed. it only appears under the webs at the front. They are merely sawn and filed into the 1/8th", which is then soldered to a piece of the 0.8mm sheet and then filed up. Greatest care required to get the slight spine down the centre, which is hardly there on the real one, never mind the model. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    I want my workshop back!
    I already mentioned in another thread ("Any Clues") that three boats have been dumped in my workshop to see if I can find a buyer for any of them. 1) Caldercraft "Joffre" Tug, already built but in grave need of TLC with the propshaft tight and the rudder shaft too tight to move. The vessel is filthy dirty. 2) Billings "Le Pourquoi-pas", hull assembled with decks, remainder of kit & fittings look to be complete 3) Billings "Smit Nederland" Nr 528 - unstarted kit but does not have detail fittings I can post any of these boats and would appreciate a sensible offer for any of them - I do need the space to get on with my own work. Please PM me for any further information Regards Barry
    1 year ago by aanside
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Nah, I was being facetious, Doug. But thanks for the nice words. No heavier than brass and not a problem. Resin would be slightly lighter, but wouldn't be the right colour and would be very weak, especially the screen supports and cleats. As it happens, I do know someone who casts resin. He's doing the crew for the Crash Tender. I'm waiting for my son-in-law to come over and get up in the loft and sort through my boxes of stuff to see if the Supermarine is up there. My knees are not really up to climbing ladders and kneeling once up there, whereas he'd do it even if it hurt! Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Full size!? 😁 Respect!👍 From the look of your models I must agree though👍 Photographed out of any scale context who'd know they weren't the real McCoy? Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Found that Supermarine yet? BTW2: Won't white metal be a bit on the heavy side? Can your chum do resin casting as well?
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Mine almost are, Doug . Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    An' if you want it to look like a real one - build a real one!😁😁
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    If you want it to look like metal, use metal. That alclad is OK, but still looks like paint to me and having to do it in black first (and that coat has to be perfect apparently) is too much of a faff for me. Hammer, as you can see from the response (or lack of it) taking more pictures (never easy for my shit camera) would hardly be warranted and the description says it all really. I have a few more to take, or rather the wife can take em with her Klevafone for me. Filler and cap, exhaust outlet and windscreen supports have been added. Just the bear paw vent to go when I get a bit of 1/8th" through the post. I have 1/8th", but it's that horrible yellow gooey stuff, so I've splashed out on a small bit of CZ120, hard brass. Also called leaded, silicon or engravers' brass. MUCH better to cut and shape. The equivalent for rod, strip and section is CZ 121, extruded. These will all be available to buy once my chum has cast them in white metal and then you just have to burnish with a crewel needle (darning) and you have chrome (lacquer to taste). Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Very good a few more photos of the forming would have been nice. I have seen brass covered in soft solder to make it shine, but not for me.
    1 year ago by hammer
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Is it a silver finish you want? or chrome finish, if chrome is what you want, try ALCLAD paints, saw them at Telford IPMS show last November, and decided to try some on a club 500, you have to spray the base coat of black, and then the candy silver over it, really gives it a chrome more than silver finish, I think you can get it on Ebay, not expensive and worth a go👍 Peter😊
    1 year ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Leaf is a bit fragile. Bare Metal Foil is less so, but still a bit difficult to use, but Sellotape aluminium is good stuff, especially as it's self adhesive and the glue doesn't show, whereas foiling with thinner (Kit Kat wrapper) foils and leaf glue can show the glue if you're not careful. For something like a cutwater, Sellotape would be ideal as it isn't being asked to round anything too extreme, but yet it is tougher for that application. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Hi, I've used the silver and gold leaf from local cake making supplier, apparently used on wedding decorations but works on models as well. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Interesting Mark, 👍 I'll have a sniff round my local art supplies shop. Can get a variety of woods, profiles, stains, lacquer and resins an' such there as well! Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    have used silver leaf before (not on a model )and it works very well on curved surfaces use gum arabic as a base and apply the siver with a soft brush ,silver and gold leaf are not as expensive as you would think and a little book goes a long way .Cheers Marky
    1 year ago by marky
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Thanks Martin, I'll look out for that👍 Yeah, the Lightning is cool, I had the 1/72 version back then. I recently bought the 1/24th kit of the Mosquito, another cool kite! It's a MONSTER and I haven't had the guts to start it yet😉 I recently found on the Krick site some chrome "Racing Paint for Polycarbonate Body's" made by Ghiant Aerosols in Belgium, branded 'RC Car'. Comes in two 150ml cans; chrome spray and a lacquer / fixer. Haven't tried it yet, will report when I have. Cheers, Doug
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Best for our purposes, Doug, would be Sellotape aluminium tape. it's self adhesive and very malleable so can be persuaded round all sorts of shapes. I am currently foiling a 1/48th scale Airfix Lightning jet, my favourite Cold War jet. Yes, even I make up the occasional kit and it IS a belter. But silver paint won't do, so I use all sorts of cooking foil, turkey foil, Kit Kat wrappers, etc. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Now THAT'S an idea👍 Never thought of covering (plating!?) with ally foil! Must give it a go. Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    These are going to be cast in white metal as near to pewter as damn it, so you can burnish them to a nice chrome finish. Then lacquer. I'll turn you some Perspex innards for the light and you can put some clear coloured paint over the Perspex. There's just the bow piece to go, but I can't have the cutwater cast, so that will have to be either aluminium or foil covered brass as it needs to be thin. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Platinum or white gold?😁😁😁 Seriously though folks!😉 I'm first in the queue for a set Martin 👍 OK, I'll settle for rhodium😁
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    ...
    Here are the finished items. Off to the caster now. White metal next. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards
    Been brass bashing Chris Craft
    deck fittings
    while the Vincent Milliput is setting. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Mahogany in Scale
    Hmmm, well a cursory look through over lunch shows me that the book is fine if you're a kit basher as it covers the Dumas kind of kit, but for the actual modelmaker it holds nothing but nice pics on indifferent paper. Some useful addresses in the back. That's about it. Nothing on
    deck fittings
    , etc. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Another useful site for all 'Woodies' ;)
    Doug, I do most of that with veneers, which just require a sharp scalpel. No need for too much precision woodwork, but if there is, you just treat the timber as metal, using metalworking tools to cut and work it. it really isn't difficult. What MIGHT put some people off are all those shiny
    deck fittings
    and hull furniture. They have to be done by hand in brass, then polished, then sent off to be plated. Each of my Rivas had over 150 separate pieces of polished brass and nickel silver to be plated! Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and
    deck fittings
    . The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of
    deck fittings
    certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.
    1 year ago by NPJ
    Blog
    Final Finishing before Sea trials ;-)
    A quick Flashback to May 😲 Got sidetracked with 'lectrickery' an' stuff🤔 Hull was given a final spray top coat and gloss clear lacquer coat. All flatted back in between coats with 3000 grit Tamiya W&D sponges. Used wet with a drop of liquid soap. Then a few hours of polishing with car paint cutting compound and finally with 'anti hologram' polish until it feels like glass.😊 Same polishing procedure for the decks and cabin sides. Fitted a few
    deck fittings
    ; tank filler caps, which also hold the aft deck down, and 'Jam' cleats fore and aft. Both from the 'Riva' range from Krick. Apart from the cockpit she's done! Need suitable scale crew and cockpit furniture now. Ship's wheel I have but that's it so far. Last pic is a reminder of how the 'old girl' started out last year, after 25 years of neglect in the cellar! Sea Trial soon. Cheers, All, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    46Firefloat Mk2 paint
    Unless described as flat, paint was more often a brighter satin than matt and rarely actual gloss. White will always have been an off white as the components of paints were such that it was not possible to get a really bright white. I know that for a fact as my grandad always made his own and until PEP in the mid 60s (Plastic Emulsion Paint) there was no such thing as brilliant or appliance white. Unfortunately getting an decent off white is not easy these days since Plastikote went acrylic and their previously excellent paints started eating themselves on recoating. I now use enamels exclusively. They are densely pigmented, flexible and modern enamels dry pretty quickly. I am using a black enamel primer on my Crash Tender, which I will then spray with black "gloss" from the same range, which, once thinned with white spirit, will dry a little less than glossy. I still don't have a matt brick red for the undersides, but it can be made matt-ish with a careful rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry used wet and soapy, but be careful not to sand through, so very lightly does it, even 1000 grit can cut well when new. Decks were said to be Cerrux Light Deck Grey, anti-slip, which means a textured surface. That would be darker looking due to the surface texture's way with the light. The cabin sides were described as "smooth", i.e. same as the decks but not anti-slip. The roofs? Well, on Vosper's drawing "white" is crossed through and "Grey" written in. But, some pics do look white, the best pics look darker by a whisker than the sides and the roofs are clearly textured as they show evidence, as do the decks, of filth which will sit in the texture. You choose. NOBODY has yet given us chapter and verse. The fact is, an already very handsome boat looks so very pretty with white roofs. But they too should be off white if you can get it! Good luck. Fittings, btw can be had from SLEC in Watton in white metal. Basically the old Yeoman fittings, masters now owned by IP Engineering who bought them to cast when they owned Vintage Model Boat Company. Now they've sold that to SLEC, but I don't think SLEC have white metal casting facilities, so probably cast by Ivor still. I have just had a set for my birthday and they're excellent. They do need careful cleaning up as in mould lines need to be filed/scraped/sanded to a decent finish and then given good primered surface. No hook though, but it does include nav and riding lights. This site also has masts for sale in plastic, but I made my own in brass as I will the hook and davit. I have also just had a set of crew figures cast from my patterns and they will be available soon...a driver(Helm), a boss with binoculars and a lazy slob laying around in the after cockpit. Needs a roll-up to finish his look. No idea of price yet as don't know how much rubber to mould or resin to cast for a set. Yes, 1/16th scale. All this to finish a model I had 55 years ago! But I reckon it deserves it. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Directory
    (Other) Christian Radich
    My model of the Christian Radich a Norwegian full-rigged ship. I don’t recall the manufacturer’s details of this model kit but I believe it was of Spanish origin. Construction of the model is a double plank hull and deck with most of the small fittings being supplied in the kit of parts, the build time was 680 hours. The vessel was built in Sandefjord, Norway and was delivered on 17 June 1937. The owner was The Christian Radich Sail Training Foundation established by a grant from an officer of that name. The vessel is a full-rigged three masted steel hull, 62.5 m long, with an overall length of 73 m including the bowsprit and a maximum width of 9.7 m. She has a draught of about 4.7 meters and a displacement at full load of 1050 tons. Under engine power she reaches a top speed of 10 knots, while she can make up to 14 knots under sail. in 1939, the ship sailed across the Atlantic to visit the World Trade Fair in New York. The ship and the voyage created huge press coverage and made Christian Radich famous. When the ship came back home in September 1939, she was taken over by the Norwegian Navy. After the German invasion, the Nazi’s used the ship as an accommodation ship. At the end of the war, Christian Radich was towed to Flensburg in Germany where it was later bombed and sunk. At the end of the war, Christian Radich was hoisted up and towed to Kiel with a minesweeper as a protection ship. She was later towed to Norway and fully restored in 1947. There is a rich source of information about this beautiful ship on the internet if anyone is interested to learn more about her. (5/10)
    1 year ago by pjarrett
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    Greetings, everyone: I’m looking for an online sources that offer fittings & detail parts, especially for modern tugboats. I have Hobby Engine’s 1:36 scale Richardson tugboat which is already pretty well detailed, but I’d like to replace its two deckhouse life rings with better looking ones & add a few others in appropriate locations. I’m also looking for a life raft drum & a few other detail parts here & there. Most of all I’d like to find navigation lights for the mast. The housings can be most any material but the lenses must be clear. I’m going to remove all of the “dummy” navigation lights on the mast & replace them with LED-lighted ones. The boat came with working port & starboard sidelights so they won’t need to be replaced. I’ve got a dredging barge designed (in my head) to use as a companion for tug. I’ve got all of the basic materials stockpiled for the barge itself plus a nice lattice boom crane for the dredge. I found a beautiful metal clamshell bucket that’s a work of art to use with the crane, too. Although I could scratchbuild things bitts & bollards I’d consider buying some as a time saver. I’ll need portholes for the deckhouse, ventilators, etc. as well. I live in western Massachusetts which is a beautiful area but there aren’t any hobby shops nearby that stock ship fittings of any sort. I used to buy fittings from A.J. Fischer & Bliss Marine but they both went out of business a long time ago. I’ve found several online shops that sell ship kits & fittings but they’re mostly for small scale sailing vessels. I’d appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Pete
    1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Fire Boat (crash tender) colours...
    Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? 😉 With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chains😉😊 Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want. Humbrol H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey 😉 I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and
    deck fittings
    off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. it happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wherry hull in GRP
    Boatshed, you have to speak as you find with these things. Clearly, the model has been improved but not enough yet. It's only fair that we are honest with suppliers. I haven't looked at his
    deck fittings
    , but if they are straight off a 3D printer they too will need a lot of work to correct and improve the surfaces. it's not offensive to say so, it's just the truth. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Tamar deck colour
    Hi In the process of building a modelslipway 1/16 Tamar and wanting to know what rattle can shade of grey to use on the deck. Also should l paint the deck the finish colour then glue fittings on afterwards, or glue first and spray everything in situe. My first model boat so any info would be helpful. Alan
    1 year ago by alan50
    Forum
    Tamar deck colour
    If you can make spigots onto the fittings I would paint the deck first, then the fittings and then glue the fittings on. That crisp join between fitting and deck is made so much better if the two are effectively separate. And crispness is what we all strive for. You may be a wonder worker with a fine brush and paint them after gluing on, but they'll never be QUITE right and they'll be weak without spigots. Even WITH spigots I would suggest you use Evo-Stik as its rubbery nature helps to make knock-prone parts a little more knock proof. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay


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