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(Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer
The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and
plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10)
3 years ago by ads90
Hull finishing touches
The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and waterproof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer...
I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any
, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak
which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😡
1 year ago by StuartE
Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6
Hi, Have added two brushless motors prop shafts etc, twin rudders as per original boat and also a cabin roof.
Did a test run (sorry no pics) but she was great, predictable and stable in rough conditions.
I have started on the inner
, this plugs in the hull, still a lot to do.
1 year ago by CB90
Pretend deck planking
Hi I use popular ply for construction and
it is much lighter than birch but is much stronger than light ply . The
is a light straw colour and of very close uniform grain one coat of danish oil 'can be applied with a soft brush if you are worried about rags washed out with turps use dividers to measure plank widths use biro for curved planks use a wheeled block device as per the yacht books to follow deck edge apply several coats of oil burnish with fine Scotchbrite Cheers Ian
1 year ago by TOWN3810
Keeping up the standard I see Canabus, 👍
and again good inspiration for my Danish version, Gina 2 from Billing.
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Installed the deck and filled around the edges.
Gave the hull a quick run and it handle very well.
Good turning circle and at 50% throttle still over scale speed.
3/4 throttle looks about right.
About to start planking.
1 year ago by canabus
Brixham trawler IBEX
Yes - thinking out problems is half the fun😊
My first build was a Vic Smeed Starlet - just completed. Pretty straight forward but I over engineered it to try out some ideas - thinking the ideas through was great fun.
So although I will not start the Cariad until January I'm trying to explore problems now. The angle of the rudder shaft is one that I think I have a solution to. Take it right through the deck then put a handle onto it, hinged at the shaft so that it does not rise and fall as it is turned. Then a Bowden cable from each side of the cockpit to power the steering. I will enjoy building a mock up and trying it out!
As to the rudder, I am thinking of a detachable extension - downwards.
I'm also thinking about placing the prop to one side - perhaps more authentic but also well clear of the rudder.
One thing that I'm still thinking through is the access hatch. I see some builders move the dingy to the centre and create a hatch here but I like the clean
on the original, with the dingy to the side. A hatch to the side would work for everything but the top screw for the detachable keel. Some more time dreaming up a solution.
1 year ago by sam
Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees.
When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades.
Like I say not enough clamps
Have ordered the
from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.
1 year ago by Ianh
Deck planking using mahogany and pine.
1 year ago by Colin H
Kit Quality ETC.
Hi I have ordered the additional
material from Jotika. I remember seeing similar boats around Bideford and most cabins had mahogany sides with white rooves and mahogany /teak grab rails
1 year ago by Ianh
Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached.
The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and
I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do.
If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful.
I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁
I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😡
I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below.
One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long.
Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.🤔
2 years ago by MouldBuilder
Billing Boats St Canute Update
Hello everyone, it’s been a while since l made a post about my ongoing model St Canute, mainly due to the heatwave we’ve just been through, however l have just completed laying the
strips, which l have to admit was going well until the last few strips to the edge, boy oh boy did l struggle. I jumped the instructions as they do say to plank the hull first. At times l just sat there looking at the
trying to get a reasonable edge and curve. I have attached some photos which some of you professional model makers will spot the errors, but it’s the best l can do so long am pretty pleased with the outcome. I have a question, should l now apply some sanding sealer to the deck strips? l am just a bit worried not to sand the deck strips too much. Any advice would be very much appreciated. I guess now l must start with the hull planking which l am apprehensive about, but hey ho it has to been done. Thanks everyone l will keep you updated from time to time, if anyone out there is also building this Billing Boat st Canute l would love to hear from you. Cheers everyone, Richard.
2 years ago by Richard7
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
Strange that you should mention the Movie/book 'The Cruel Sea', have just bought the DVD from Ebay, looking forward to watching it once again. I have an old Revell corvette kit, and last month bought the NEW corvette kit from Revell which has most of the lighting in kit form, plus revolving radar, but very annoyed 😆to find out that there is no p/e parts or wooden
as in the platinum edition, but it only cost me £100 + vat trade deal, sssh🤐
2 years ago by Rookysailor
Part1 research information
From the construction hand book:-
shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material.
Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with planked decks.
62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used.
stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately.
Prop shafts of real boat.
All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat.
propshaft angles are around 10 degrees.
The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones.
The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees.
Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection.
The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.
2 years ago by CB90
54 year old Crash Tender
Ah, old car days, eh? Nothing phased us. Can't touch them now. No idea what it all is under that plastic cover.
Spookilly, I've just done a pattern in 1/32nd scale for a Maranello GTO1964. One of my favourite cars messed over by Maranello for Le Mans.
Your fish cutter seems to be throwing some problems up, but nuttn' a spot of resin can't fix.
I don't buy that propellor blade rumour. We have no decent pics of the thing, but you can clearly enough see there aint no twist in the legs like a prop would have. I've just made mine in brass and simply flattened the tube in the vice to get a similar section and soldered to other tubes. All I have to do is make rings and attach the blocks for the ensign ropes.
Also cut and attached the toe strips either side of the decks in Venetian blind slat, some leftovers from
the Vanity cutter model. Now I need to cut some mahogany and attach to the side of the decks as the rubbing strake. Finaly will be making gutters for the smaller windows (NO frames there) and frames for the wheelhouse windows, then I can paint it. I have decided on white roofs after a peer at the good photos again, where the vents all seem to be white. But non-slip was clearly a pain to clean as the roofs and decks are bloody filthy!
Vincent's having a break for a while. Call it my annual leave, which I never normally have.
2 years ago by Westquay
H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though.
From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it..
Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable
over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated.
Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.
2 years ago by RHBaker
Graupner ranzow refitting
I originally built this about 6 years ago when I was still a novice builder and some mistakes were made and it ended up partially sinking , it was left in the workshop for about a year before I decided to refit it out.
The deck just lifted of the framing without any problems because it was rotten as well as some of the framing , the motors and prop shafts had seized and most of the electrics and the battery had shorterd and corroded due to the sinking.
I had been doing the odd bits of the refit over the past couple of years not really in any rush to complete it.
After replacing the rotten framing I started to replace the electrics with all new gear
Battery 12v 7mah
Motors Mtronic 560
Working crane using 3 mini motors with Mr RC world micro speed controllers
Working anchor winch (krick I think)
Full lighting kit and working radar
Main speed controllers electronize
The pictures shows as it is now ready for the new
to be fitted
2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Graupner ranzow refitting
The deck has been fitted today after dry test fit before glueing.
The timber framing and underside of the ply
was coated in a water based varnish before applying the titebond 2 wood glue.
Used a number of clamps and bungee cords to hold the deck down.
2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Graupner ranzow refitting
Al I have done today because of the weather is to make the card template for the ply
and then transferred it to the ply sheet ready for cutting out and glueing in place
You can just about make out the pencil outline on the sheet ply
2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Sealing a hull up
Hi all just after a bit of information. I use to buy sand sealer from the local model shop but there no longer there so not able to get hold of any. What are people using? It’s not for the hull it for the
and wheel house. Thanks
2 years ago by Vickers1979
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
Nothing much was done for a while after this stage due to my health halting the build for about 6 months.
But I have started the build again and decided to post it on here for you all.
The next stage was planking the
and in whales , the deck is planned in walnut and beech which was glued and pinned to the sub deck using titebond 2 .the in whales were lined with mahogany on the inside and walnut on the outside topped with a walnut top rail made using 5mm square section bent and glued together again with titebond 2.
2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
The blue you have used on her really looks great and the white upper sets it off. Love the
as well. Are you going to put any pin striping down her sides. Look forward to seeing her finished and on the water. Will you be posting video of her running.
2 years ago by BOATSHED
As to where you could get it from. Cornwall model boats sell a good selection of wood for building or
. including a lot of nice exotic timbers which will give lovely
patterns. As to what. I would use 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch square for the stringers in spruce. Hope that helps. Kindest wishes, Dave W 😊
2 years ago by rolfman2000
First piece of
added at the bow. I’ve used a lamination of 1.5mm mahogany and 1.5mm obechi, this will be stained and varnished at the end.
I’ve also added the mid chine rubbing strake from 1/32 x 2/16 ply, blended, filled and primed and sanded with sanding sealer. Hull exterior finished apart from 2 thin coats of resin.
Next job is the fit remaining deck pieces which are currently glued and laminating under some heavy books!
2 years ago by Skydive130
Hot off the laser the sheets for the
,have used strips (coffee stirrers )for
previously but thought if I can access the technology why not use it.
is 1.5mm thick oak faced ply sheet 1m x500 lasered every 5mm then cut to the desired sizes
2 years ago by marky
Cheers for that Doug ,going to attempt laser printing a sheet of
on 1mm oak ply this afternoon if the drawing works out , rather than use the old trusted coffee stirrers. embracing the technology "Faint heart etc. etc."
2 years ago by marky
Whilst things are sticking and drying ,I noticed in the book it mentions "at bow and stern were short "turtle deck" covers ,the drawings not very clear and looking on internet got lots of info about garden
. So question is,is it a curved cover as seen on the bows of trawlers? or am I barking up the wrong tree. Any help appreciated book also says these were removed later on in her career so I can omit them if need be.
2 years ago by marky
So while things dry on the paddles started on the superstructures, yard manager on board with hands in pockets old school no hard hat .next stop
2 years ago by marky
small detail items
That's what I use for
as well👍 ,don't drink enough coffee or make enough money to justify going into Costa every day so asked the kind lady at the works canteen for a few and was kindly given a few ,I asked her to order me some the next time she got them in , a box of 1000 for less than £2 a bargain and there were over 1500 in the box .
2 years ago by marky
Cabin and Rudder
wood and the paint job. Have you decided what fittings your going to add im at that stage with mine.
2 years ago by Novagsi0
Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade
Having to clear up before going away for a while. Table top to clear and case to pack.
I have tried to load a small video, my first one, but this is my fourth try at uploading.
I would show that, thanks to the help of so many of you, I have made a trial setup of the sound unit in the Hull using the exciters. Had to have a go before I left (spoilt Brat).
It works! Happy with volume, even with
off but volume control only half advanced and can function horn separate to engine sounds.
Dave M and Doug to name a couple have really helped me through to this point.
When I return, I will install properly and take images as this video does not seem to want to play with me.
Next challenge...the Esc/Mixer
Cheers to all.
2 years ago by NPJ
Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
No not yet thought it through Doug. Huge speaker with the unit... and weighty. Glad about the transponders! I imaging they should be in the hull/
and above the waterline?
Trying to read about about boat balance and how they sit in the water. Assuming keeping battery as low as possible is best. Will have to be fore and aft if it is to be removed through the rear hatch.
Have not broken into the Bridge/wheelhouse yet to see whats there.................
Is once a week OK for the build blog?
All the best.
3 years ago by NPJ
As most of my models start out as a solid block, once the basic hull shape is there i do in fact work downwards for some time. Like to have all machinery etc. finished before
3 years ago by Gdaynorm
Graf Spee 1:20 !! All aboard ;-)
Wayne , Just noticed in RS components that they do a 1.75 mm tropical wood 3D printing filament ,wooden
? or a nice little cabin the world could be your oyster ,couldn't get the link on the last post to work but they are printing a house somewhere in Scandinavia ,Norway I think
3 years ago by marky
I picked up a 46" Huntsman yesterday, so i have the same sort of restoration as you have, but bigger 😕 First thing to sort is the "started" planning on the
. There must be somewhere I can buy strips of timber to plank with to save making my own. And what does one use to represent the black interplank waterproofing ? Otherwise I have to take off the bits already glued on. Cheers guys, Dave W 😊
3 years ago by rolfman2000
Firing Battleship at Wings & Wheels (UltraHD/4K)
very nice and there must be lots of mechanism under that
to do that lot !!
3 years ago by lesliebreame
(Pleasure Craft) Dolphin 16 (19)
This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The
is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient. (Motor: Graupner Speed 600 8.4v) (ESC: Chinese 320amp) (7/10)
3 years ago by AllenA
Richards 48'' Swordsman
here are some more photo's of the progress.i have finished the painting,and as you can see the
is to be finished..
once the deck is completed and varnished i will make new windows. I have a few ideas for the windscreen (the visor for a face shield comes with a nice bend!
3 years ago by rmwall107
Building a deck
I began laying the deck on April 5th. it had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue.
The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her
found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the
, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today.
The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. it would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible.
Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last.
I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are.
In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. in all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get.
The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch.
The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. in hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future.
The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. it was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway...
Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle.
I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting.
It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough.
The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood.
I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.
3 years ago by Jerry Todd
Sent away for some rigging cord. After waiting a week it arrived, well I got it wrong to thin. So I have decided to make a rope walk. Then I can make exactly what I want.
Found a set of gears from my rubbish, probably out of an old printer. Turned axels to fit the bore with a sharp point on the end. Placed a small gear against the large on top of 3/4 ply. with the axial in each tap with hammer & gives the spacing. draw a circle & divide by three. Drill the holes starting with a small drill, then one of the correct size. Cut the point off axels
push through the holes. An angel cut on the axels of the small gears where they protrude through the ply. These will hold the cord, & the tension will hold the gears in mesh. I am using an off cut of
board for the track. That's the Whorls finished. Just the Topper & Looper to follow soon.
3 years ago by hammer
Purchased on well known auction site. Boat very dusty/dirty but sound. it is from a Robbe kit that was around about 10 years ago and has timber
, built-in auxiliary motor, navigation lights, etc. A deep clean followed by a re-paint of the superstructure, rub the
down and varnish, followed by a complete rub down and re-paint of the hull brought her back to a fine yacht. She is about 40 inches in length and sails beautifully and has great presence on the water.
3 years ago by ads90
Jet Sprint Boat
I need one, looks well Rod. The
the hull is sat on gives the scale away nicely.
Any chance of a pic with a 12" ruler next to it (or a cigarette packet, that's what I use😂)
3 years ago by Midlife306
''Vanity'' leaves the building board
Just made my first dovetail corner joint on one of the decklights. Seemed to work out OK once I'd I'd got the shape of both parts in my head. Used the vice jaws as a guide and a piercing saw to cut the joints. My Aliphatic glue had dried up, so I had to use PVA, so no pics till tomorrow in the daylight, in 1/16th scale the decklight over the main saloon (see above picture) is 4ft. x 2ft-6in....3"x 1.875". Nowhere near big enough to fiddle in my sail winch system so I think she may have to be a rudder only job. No sweat really. I had hours of good sailing with an old plastic 375, rudder only. Unless I can work out an invisible method of lifting a section of
. AND keeping it waterproof!
3 years ago by Westquay
Crash Tender planking
I'm pleased that my blog is interesting and helpful, but I don't want to mislead you on some of the details I have included on my model.
I don't have any real hard evidence that there was any type of fancy
on either of the fireboats, indeed I do believe that it's more than likely that the deck areas that I have finished with planking were probably just painted the same as the main deck and upperworks. These were working boats that would get harsh use and treatment so any type of adornment would be a waste of time and money.
I do have a drawing of the tow hook deck that certainly shows an underlying planked construction of the rear decks but no finishing details.
The only 'photo of the rear well that I have doesn't seem to show any visible planking so I suspect it was all just painted.
My decision to plank these decks is pure 'modelling licence' as used by many other modellers of these boats and I think it adds interesting detail to what would otherwise be a very utilitarian vessel.
Without access to the full original Vosper construction drawings and possibly other photographic evidence the
question is open to speculation.
3 years ago by robbob
The tow hook stays.
The tow hook stays brace the tow hook by tying the tow hook deck to the keel to transfer the load when the boat is towing a seaplane and is a simple structure on the full size boat but as scale feature is quite tricky to reproduce.
It also has to be made to allow the rear well deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. so this took a bit of thinking about how to make it easily removable.🤔
As my brass working skills seem to be improving I decided to make this in brass for strength and durability.
Mike Cummings at Vintage Model Works had previously very generously supplied me with a set of drawings which included the tow hook detail and these were of great help in the making process.👍😊
First I marked out the fixing plate on some 22 gauge brass and cut and filed it to the correct shape and then two pieces of 6mm brass tube cut to the correct angle where they meets the plate.
After some measurement and geometric juggling the cockpit deck was marked with the positions of the holes that the bracing stays pass through and I used my brass ‘cookie cutter’ to make two neat holes through the
planks for the flanges that the stays pass through but in this case the tubes will finish just below deck level to allow it to be removed.
These flanges were made from some 14swg brass plate, filed to a circular shape and with the centre hole pierced and filed to an angle for the tube to pass through with a small clearance gap to allow them to hinge on the two brass pins that I drilled and inserted into the flanges. This hinging feature allows the towing stay assembly to hinge back slightly to aid removal.
I drilled the upper ends of the tubes where they meet the fixing plate to take two brass pins that will hold the parts securely in place while soldering and two temporary brass bracing pieces were then soft soldered to the tubes to hold them at the correct angles and separation.
All the parts were thoroughly cleaned and assembled and silver soldered together and then the soft soldered braces were removed and the whole assembly cleaned up with abrasive and wire wool.
Two false bolt heads were soft soldered to the plate to add a finishing detail, the centre fixing is a cap head threaded screw that fixes the assembly to the cockpit bulkhead.
I sprayed two light coats of etch primed and when dry brush painted the whole piece with two coats of ‘gun metal’ grey.
Happily the part sits perfectly in place on the deck and hinges back easily as intended so that removal and re-fitting is simple…unlike the process involved in conceiving and making the part 🤓
3 years ago by robbob
springer tug no 3
Well this is the 3rd version I have made of a springer tug.
Grp Hull and this time using 2 mm plastic.
Balsa wood and again what ever I could find laying around.
is just printed paper and stuck down with Varnish.
Just needs some ballast and it is ready to go.
3 years ago by none
Please has any one built a type Vll 1/32 with a snorkel or has done so in the past . Do you have the dimensions for the well on the
i.e. Depth and any other ideas for parts for pop and bottom of snorkel.
3 years ago by tonyp
I've been busy with the Bridge build, this has proved a little tricky as the forward structure is at a slight angle when not on the ship. I've used a combination of 1/8 ply and 0.75mm plastic sheet. I needed the ply in this section as this will be where I will have hull access for batteries and needed the strength. The walls of the upper structure are plastic sheet which I think have come out well. There is still more to add (look out wings at the rear of the bridge need walls etc) I can the start to connect this to the
before adding finer details.
Coming on slowly is the hull, I will spend a bit more time here over the coming weeks to get it ready for sanding and then fibreglass coating.
Good luck with your builds.
3 years ago by Pav403
Progress on Build
I've made a start on the Superstructure, they are basic ply with blocking to support. I've split the sections into 3 as I want to have the middle superstructure secured to the
but have the forward and rear sections removable to allow access to the motors etc.
I've also made a start on the planking for the hull, this is balsa which I will look to cover in fiber glass once it is ready.
slow progress and I'll update more when I can.
Good luck with your builds.
3 years ago by Pav403
(Pleasure Craft) Aeronaut Diva
My first attempt in twenty years so thought i'd start with something simple. I used lime strip to naturally lift the colour and spent an evening
the cockpit for a bit of added detail.
Nice model with a good turn of speed. (Motor: MIG 480 Speed) (ESC: Mtroniks) (7/10)