|||
Current Website Support
264
Contributors
10
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal πŸ…
Β£10
Β£15
Β£25
Β£50
Subscribe for your gold medal πŸ…
Β£5
Β£10
Β£15
Β£20
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Search
    Search
    Forum
    Emma C. Berry
    I need some help. I've successfully refurbished my static display Emma C. Berry model and added remote control. I have the sails on a winch loop, I have the rudder on a servo, I even managed to add a motor, and an extended keel with weight. The one issue that I have not been able to resolve is maneuvering under sail. Primarily, I cannot get it to move through the irons when coming about. She responds and the sails will luft, she might even catch some wind but she never makes enough of a turn to change direction. I've already changed out the rudder for the larger size on the plans. I've also tried extending the depth of the rudder. Bottom line, she is mainly being driven by the current. In this situation, by current I mean whichever way the wind is blowing the small lake. It is a local park lake and doesn't really have any inherent current. My one suspicion is the keel I added. It is doing its job to keep her upright and providing some resistance but in the end, the underwater current is overpowering her response to the rudder and/or trimming the sails. See Photo. I had originally wanted to incorporate a more rounded profile on the ends of the weight and the shafts but I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that critical Sails are per the plans and made from the material that came with the kit (25+ years ago). I even added a couple of sailor figures but we still can't establish control. 😭
    3 months ago by carpemoment
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    Hi John, Your PC should have a Card Reader on the front for various types of memory cards. Take the card out of the camera and plug it into the appropriate slot in the reader. it will only fit in one and only one way round. The PC should recognise it and display a small pop-up asking what you want to do with it. Click on 'Display in Explorer' (or similar wording) and the card will appear as a directory in Windows Explorer. You can then copy the photos to any drive / directory that you want. Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Kingfisher by Norstar upgrades
    The original design placed the motor near the windscreen; using
    direct drive
    . The new design moves the C/G; provides a shorter prop shaft; and a lighter boat.
    4 months ago by Ron
    Forum
    Norstar Kingfisher BIG changes
    BIG changers were made to this boat since I lasted posted pictures of it. Previously the motor was
    direct drive
    and mounted forward below the windshield. The CG was to far forward and weight of the model never allowed to boat to plane. That weight caused the motor to over heat even after adding a water jacket. I stripped out the shaft, removed the motor, RC gear, also removed the keel and other materials to bring the weight down. The shaft assembly was shortened, repositioned and epoxied in place. Using a sewing machine bobbin, a pulley was created allowing the motor to be mounted parallel to the shaft. The rudder servo assembly will be placed next and further CG testing in the tub. Too bad our pond is frozen over here in Ontario.
    5 months ago by Ron
    Forum
    Allen Screw Removal
    If there is nothing left to grip in the holes I would next try a left handed drill. The vibration, heat and left hand direction may unscrew the bolt. Which ever direction drill you use the hole in the bolt head will keep it centred. Start with a smaller size and drill deep enough to be just below the head. Go up a size and drill again but don't get to close to the bolt thread diameter. Your ideal situation will be that as you get close the head will snap off. You could drill close then drive a screwdriver bit in and use that to snap the head off. Steve
    5 months ago by steve-d
    Directory
    (Other) RTTL 2769
    As a direct result of refurbishing a scratch built 1960s 2754 ,and having the plans to hand,I decided to build two superstructures. 2754 was so impressive I have now built the hull and fitted Motors Drives and rudders. i decided on twin prop set up sit was truer to scale. (Motor: 2 x 540) (ESC: Chinese twin feed) (5/10)
    7 months ago by Rex3644
    Forum
    54'' long Cervia tug.
    My Cervia was ready built. I have replaced the Electric motor with a large servo motor (Brushed) .
    direct drive
    and being heavy helps with ballasting. lead acid gel cells are power source. Motor rated voltage24 v but run it on 12v . low rev high torque no load current 1 amp. Shaft diameter 0.5 in. Gives some idea of power out. Being servo motor (ex computer drive 30 years old) well balanced no vibration. Photo near shore shows power of motor.
    8 months ago by tysonyoung
    Blog
    Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion)
    So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than Β£100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed
    direct drive
    ) and the cost of over Β£150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    Hi Martin, Welcome to the world of 'working' modelsπŸ˜‰ It also cost me a small fortune when I started to get into brushless and LiPo stuff last year after retiring. That Simprop ESC should be fine for your Supermarine (if you ever find it 😁) See what you mean about the prices for bigger NiMhs πŸ€” OK, 'Go LiPo young man', BUT remember what I wrote above; Watch 'em! Any other printing on that 2012 motor? Maker? kV rating? A pic might help. What do you mean by 'a couple of LiPos'? 2S? Re Brushless ESCs; have a look at the Turnigy range at HobbyKing, or Quicrun at HobbyWing. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/power-systems/speed-controllers/brushless-esc.html?___store=en_us&brand=2033%2C2223%2C2009&dir=asc&esc_compatibility_type=4546%2C4549%2C4570&esc_product_type=4576&order=position&stock=1&wrh=1%2C7 https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/quicrun-brushless-system You can probably find a UK shop for these; Google them! I use the 30A Quicrun version in my Sea Scout works fine with my Propdrive 2830 1000kV motor and a 3S LiPo. See pic. Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion
    As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted πŸ˜‰ After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals MasterπŸ‘) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube πŸ‘ Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coilsπŸ€” To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mateπŸ‘ Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines πŸ˜‰ 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a tryπŸ˜‰ Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.πŸ€” Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed πŸ˜‰ More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    Depending on what voltage you intend using governs what gearing you should use commensurate with size and weight of model and prop size , IE small boat and prop ,low voltage
    direct drive
    would do. As you go bigger then consider gearing.Bear in mind the torque produced by the drill. You could build a large boat with a fine turn of speed using that motor. The thing is there are so many possible variables you could experiment till the cows come home. The thing is how big a boat can you handle without putting your back out. LOL. if you remove the existing gear and replace it with one secured by grub screws and a "GearBox" with easily changed cogs you can achieve something suitable. You shouldn't need cooling .Remember the drill had none and your motor will have free space round it in the hull. if you decide you do want cooling annealed copper tubing can be wound round the can and one of the plastic tubes used to couple this to the scoop and the outlet. One way of making a scoop is a length of tubing with a slot cut in it and a cap soldered (or glued depending on material) on the end when in place under the hull the cutout will face forward. Preferably in the prop wash.Or buy a ready made scoop from a model shop. Much simpler as the mounting method will be incorporated in it already. Here is a page of suitable shops.--https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=model+boat+shops&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=53384469,-3048343,31236&tbm=lcl&ved=0ahUKEwiJyL2-i5_bAhWpKsAKHZsiD8YQjGoIaQ&tbs=lrf:!2m4!1e17!4m2!17m1!1e2!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10&rldoc=1#rlfi=hd:;si:;mv:!1m3!1d2318841.41797519!2d-3.0710914999999996!3d52.741938250000004!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i83!2i180!4f13.1;tbs:lrf:!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!2m4!1e17!4m2!17m1!1e2!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10 Good luck. P.S. Join a club. Youll get loads of help from the other members.πŸ‘πŸ‘
    11 months ago by onetenor
    Blog
    H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    Just to clarify. Shipping was only 7 days to Canada, manufacture slightly longer. Examined the hull closely and was pleased. it is dimensionally accurate and robust, but light. it had also been reinforced in strategic areas and trimmed to the correct deck line. My many questions to Christian Sheppard – Capurro of MTBHulls were quickly and knowledgeably answered. A company I would recommend others. Reviewing the build blogs and U Tube videos of the both the Brave and Perkasa models, shows most use either single or twin screws. The original vessel had a triple screw contra - rotating layout. Experience from others suggests the third screw just adds weight and complexity, but little to the performance. Nevertheless, it was how the Braves were built, so that was how it would be. Christian gave several suggestions for other modelers who have built this vessel. Contacted them and was readily provided with information and advice. The finished weight of this model is important and a target of around 6 lbs recommended for a 1:32 scale version. This is to achieve the potential performance. Plans for drivetrain are 3 x 2835 4500kVa brushless motors, direct driving 3 x scale 3 blade 30mm screws. Decided use a single Li-Po battery for the best performance with minimum weight. It was suggested three batteries, each powering a single motor would be the best layout. After some research, concluded this would introduce a weight penalty and was discounted. There are various ideas for the best drivetrain. Unfortunately none for triple screws. Decided the best approach would be to fit the bare hull out as planned, then try it. Leaving all the finishing features for later. A contact in Australia had already done this using a single screw layout and kindly sent pictures of his hull layout and then under test. Very informative. The positions of the rudders, propellers and shafts are established by the scale dimensions and were permanently installed. Everything else was to be temporarily fitted, so it could be moved or replaced if necessary.
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Propeller for brushless
    Thanks Cannabis, for the information I have noticed that brushless motors seem to run better on smaller propellers. than brushed
    direct drive
    .
    1 year ago by CB90
    Response
    Vivace Patrolboat
    The Turnigy 3800KV 2627 fits directly on the jetdrive without any modifications needed. Please remember to keep that small spacer made of GF, between the motor and the drive.
    1 year ago by Tica
    Forum
    THE VOSPER 46'' CRASH TENDER KIT BY VINTAGE MODEL WORKS
    Hi Vosper21 Welcome to the forum. I put a single motor, shaft and rudder in my fireboat so I don't have any first hand experience of a twin drive system but I would think that the shafts should exit the hull at the same points as the single shaft but equidistant from the keel. Similarly the rudders should be directly behind each prop. There are members on this site that have done a twin drive system on the 46" model that can offer more informed guidance, hopefully they will chip in with some good advice. Over to you chaps ! Please consider doing a build blog to document your progress. Good luck with the build. Robbob.
    1 year ago by robbob
    Forum
    Graupner Elke HF 408
    Veeery interestink!πŸ˜‰ I always thought that a motor's power rating referred to it's useful power output, not what it scoffs when it is stalled πŸ€” Sure 40 x 7.2 = 288W but your full ahead current and watts measurement says the supply voltage was approx 6V. Interestingly some history research tells me that the Elke was originally intended for and supplied with a
    direct drive
    280 motor. Graupner still lists it as such, albeit as 'Sold out' πŸ€” Several German build blogs on the net confirm this, although others have also tried different motors, including Decaperms. Kit reviews (mostly on German sites) also mention that she was 'pretty quick' with the 280 motor. Can well imagine, I have 2 x 285s in my 107cm U-25 and she goes like a bat out of hell. πŸ˜‰ Allen; your result of 40W + and 6.77Amps tells me the motor was running on roughly 6V. (40/6.77=5.91) if you really had a 7.2V pack connected it's got a duff cell (collapsing under load or short circuit) 😲 Carefully strip the pack, isolate the duff cell using a digital voltmeter, cut it out and send it to the great recycling nirvana! Then you have a powerful RX batteryπŸ˜‰ Glad to hear you fitted the fuseπŸ‘ Leave the rest alone for now and sail her and see. I believe you will be more than happy with the performance and since the ESC is over dimensioned it should have no problems. Happy sailing, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Props
    This rotation question seems to pop up regularly. Probably for a model, rotation direction doesn't really matter, but one authoritative answer can be found here: http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?topic=5947.0, which quotes from the Ship Handler's Guide. To summarise the comments: Outward-turning propellers means the blades of the propellers are outward turning in the upper half of their circle of rotation, and, when viewed from astern, the propeller with the right-hand blades is on the starboard (right) side and again, when viewed from astern to drive the boat forward, it must rotate in a clockwise direction. This is the preferred arrangement on full-size ships because when using the props to assist a turn, i.e one prop pushing ahead and one pushing astern, the side thrust from the two propellers assists the turn. The attached image from www.slideshare.net may help. Roy
    1 year ago by Trillium
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Springer
    Built as a rescue boat, the Springer seemed to be the easiest to build as I am still a Novice and to while away the time after my knee replacement. Blew up some plans off the net to 23" length and 10" beam. Makes her about 1/12, I think. Built from 3mm ply in the main. Powered by the LRP 12v Truck puller and
    direct drive
    via 12" ball raced prop-shaft with home made oiler and 50mm 2 blade propeller to be changed to 3 blade asap. Led lights front, back and upper. Transmitter Turnigy TGY i6, Rx TGY iA6, Esc 320 amp with fan. Ballast yet to be added and should slow her to scale speed. interesting build had some problems with upscaled plans from a pdf. Goes well in the bath but will post video as soon as I can get to the water. (Motor: LRP 12v Truck Puller) (ESC: Chinese 320A with fan) (7/10)
    1 year ago by AllenA
    Forum
    rotating radars off mast
    Hi smiggy I have a couple of these motors and they are good and mine run off a 1.5v battery (max3v). Planetary gears but relatively quiet at low revs (volts). Mine came from http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi and cost about Β£6 ea. Your link should be https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/gearmotors. Well worth a look. The stepper motors I have are 10x14mm (including the shaft) and are
    direct drive
    . I will be posting a thread soon showing more details Nice scale model Dave
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    rotating radars off mast
    Hi Seafarer, a few basic questions! Mast for what boat/ship? Dimensions / pic or sketch of the mast? Space for drive motors/gears/pulleys etc? Hint: for the radar on my 1:72 destroyer I used an old servo; disconnected the feedback, and removed the mechanical end stops so it rotated continuously and drove it with a single 1.5V dry cell (alkaline), lasts for yearsπŸ˜‰ But in my case the scanner aerial sat on the director tower on the bridge, not on a mast, so simple
    direct drive
    coupled to the servo (hidden in the ridge) output shaft with shrink sleeve. Does a sweep in a little under one second. What type of radar are you trying to simulate? Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Motor problem
    RE850 Motor 12.0 Volt with mount Ref: MFA457RE850 8000 RPM at 11amps at maximum efficency. ideal for large models and props up to 75mm with
    direct drive
    . Output shaft dia is 1/4 in http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Direct_Drive_Motors.html hope that's some help
    1 year ago by Haverlock
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Aero kits Sea Queen
    I felt the need to build something large from scratch having built Sea Nymph Sea Rover aero kits Swordsman kit. Many GRP based I/C powered before converting many of them to Brushless power. in Feb 2017 I bought plans from ebay in readiness for a family trip to Wales. My brother in law has a well kitted workshop in which he produced Sailing dingy kits before retiring. The aim was to produce this boat for the least possible cost. Thankfully there are lots of ply off cuts in Wales plus an 8x5 sheet of 1.5mm so I set about making my own kit during the time I was there. The motor was to be a Marx Decaperm selected from my bits box which I chose to set up using the geared drive. On the first launch performance was lacking to say the least so the motor mount was adjusted to
    direct drive
    but alas performance was not much better then everything stopped. The wires on the commutator had become unsolder end a common problem apparently I've now fitted a 3650 brushless stolen from an early attempt of a Huntsman 31 built for my Grand daughter which had replaced the Graupner 600, she is now 19 and interested in other things beginning with B. Having fitted the brushless a lot of vibration was experienced his was traced to a misaligned coupling,next outing will be with a huco type of fitting just to check it out roll on Thursday. (Motor: 3650 watercooled) (ESC: Hobby wing 100 amp w/c) (8/10)
    2 years ago by Rex3644
    Forum
    1/35 Vosper MTB
    I was given this kit to build with my grandsons. Static or conversion? If conversion, could it be done with one prop instead of three?
    direct drive
    or geared?
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    1/35 Vosper MTB
    Doug This is a project being built with his grandson. It is perfectly feasible to run with just one engine and use brushed motors and NiMh batteries.
    direct drive
    would work fine. Only a small boat so installation need to be kept light. I do believe when someone asks a question and states a preference it is more helpful to suggest how they can achieve their goal. Your suggestion about LiPos and brushless miss the point completely.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO
    First attempt at a full scratch build, a 32" Downeast / Lobster boat style hull in ply, to be built to my own design as a picnic / fun boat. Have acquired an MFA Torpedo 500 and a 40mm 4 blade Raboesch prop, 175 series I think. Hoping to run
    direct drive
    . Any advice on battery size voltage and Mah to get a turn of speed if required and a reasonable run time. Lipo preferably as I have a 2/3 cell charger from a previous project and limited space only in front third of hull. TX for any advice received
    2 years ago by al2612
    Response
    Fittings and finishing
    Hi, just noticed your Harbour Post wherein you write "
    direct drive
    to a MFA Torpedo 850 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 8Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper MARINE (10Amps) ESC" Don't forget to fit a 10 or 15Amp fuse between ESC and motor! Stall current is 40A !!! See pic for Torpedo 850 specs. Oh! And don't forget to take a 'supervising adult' with you on each sailingπŸ˜‰ Have fun, Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion
    that angle is way better, give yourself a bit of room for a bigger prop, say your 40mm, just incase. For reference, here is my original set up with a brushed 700 motor,
    direct drive
    , it ran hot! then I used a gearbox, it ran cooller, but the boat was getting very heavy by now. Currently its a brushless
    direct drive
    , its been ignored for a few years now, I must get it out and use it again. its an original Aerokits, built in 1963 by my Uncle as a straight runner ic, the ended up in my parents attic for 30 years
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Blog
    34'' Precedent Huntsman
    I had this boat, a kit at the age of around 10 and my dad and I started it. Following a couple of years the boat was nearly finished and for some strange reason the build stopped. After collecting dust for more than 30 years and the sad passing away of my father, I decided to get the boat down and make a fresh start with the intention of finishing it this time. My only dilemma is the choice of motor we initially decided some 30 years ago to run a 6V Hectaperm electric motor off its gear box
    direct drive
    , but this has since found its way into our 'Imara' Tug and is more than well suited. I cannot decide either to use a Tornado 850 or a brushless motor, the pro and cons are immense. As can be seen my mother use to paint all my dads boats, and she is now helping paint bits on this one, I insisted as traditional. Hope to post regular and the finished results around 14 May next year my father's B-day. Anyway any advice welcome.
    2 years ago by Novagsi0
    Forum
    propshafts
    Amati Italian Runabout 1970 RC - I have been building models for years but this is my first attempt at RC. I was initially going to buy the RC kit from Amati but it is not available. I have purchased 2 motors and am now wondering what sort of prop shafts and what size propellers to use. The motors I bought are
    direct drive
    so there is no reduction gear.
    2 years ago by fred12
    Forum
    propshafts
    Hi, The 600s strike me as very high revving for
    direct drive
    s in such a twin set up. The the alternative would be the #1793 600 Speed. Remember Fred it has only a 3.17mm output shaft. Weight difference is not dramatically less, 15g. (250-235) Power is only 2/3 (60W) so it will probably 'potter'. Current draw at max . eff. is 1A less (>10%). So I don't see that the 700 needs a significantly bigger / heavier battery - don't have to put the pedal to the metal ALL the time πŸ˜‰Anyway; Fred already has the 700s, 6316s! πŸ‘ Whatever you do Fred enjoy it not regret it. πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Best way to mount brushed motor
    Trying to replace the motor mount in an existing model is difficult. Especially when there is structure above the motor. The former arrangement was geared and I am changing it to
    direct drive
    . Getting the alignment and motor vibration to allow for the smoothest operation is a lot of trial fits. This motor has lots of torque.
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    Motor mounting
    Well there I was with the Kingfisher motoring along on the pond when it suddenly lost power, nothing??? No forward no reverse. I could give the motor forward and reverse but no reaction. Fortunately the breeze blew the boat into shore along with me using the rudder control. Upon landing and a cursory inspection I saw that the universal nylon had broken off at the metal connection. But, upon the workbench it was discovered the motor mount had come off the hull structure. It was just totally free, it lifted right out of the hull after removing the speed control connectors. Maybe, it is time to replace the geared motor to a
    direct drive
    . Any suggestions? I use brushed motors.
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    Working radar
    Hi Julian Only 8pm when I posted so not that late. May be small enough but is there a splined drive output underneath that top casing? You may need to add a short extension to the output. Could just be a bad pic as other sellers (Rapid) show similar with a spline above the top casing. I attach a pic of a similar type to the one I used. This is one that burned out in my yacht. Metal gears so kept the case for spares. The motor melted! 23mm long 10mm wide 25mm deep from base to bottom of spline. 18mm if you remove the bottom casing. Regarding suitability: are you intending to run the motor direct from a battery? The motor is very small and you will need to keep the voltage and current low (2v) to avoid overheating. The pulse internal driver will take care of this but without the electronics the motor needs protection. Using the pulse system from the Rx will require three wires and a spare channel on the tx/rx. Hope you can find a suitable servo Cheers dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2
    Here's mine I built as per plan about 4 years ago. Name: "Merlin" Specs NiMH (7.2v) 4 Amp/h MTronics Viper Marine 15A Constant Motor: High speed Low drain 545 Type: Brushed Drive:
    direct drive
    Props: Single Propellor Type: 2 Blade X Type Size: 35mm Built from a Traplet plan in 2013. All wood construction, 545
    direct drive
    motor water cooled with 2 blade prop. 2x 3.7amp 7.2 volt NiMhd batteries and a Mtronics Viper Marine 15amp speed controller.
    2 years ago by lhpen
    Response
    HMS Erebus
    Good clue! - extract from manual re set-up "1. Set throttle trim to neutral and turn on the transmitter. 2. Press the ESC on/off button. The LEDs will light, one green, one red. 3. Wait 3 seconds, the LEDs will change to blue. Your ESC is now set. 4. The ESC has an automatic LiPo cut-off. One flashing red LED means your battery is low and the cut-off has activated." Note point 4 !! Are you using LiPo or NiMH? Also- "Problem: Model runs properly, then motor goes dead. ➀ The built-in thermal protection may be automatically shutting down the ESC due to overheating conditions. Check for binding drivetrain, bad motor or incorrect gear ratio. Adjust gear mesh, replace motor or change gear ratio. Allow the ESC to cool and try again." ESC seems to be mostly used in buggies - above is extract from the Duratrax Evader EXT2.4 manual. Thus, assuming
    direct drive
    , 'changing gear ratio' for us means change the prop! May also have been the cause of the blue ESC problems? Which version of the Sprint? There are Sprint DTXM1200, Sprint 2 DTXM1205, and Sprint Waterproof DTXM1220. All with slightly different specs and motor requirements; brushed / brushless. So what is your setup, End to End; battery to prop?
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery problems
    My knowledge of "elecy" stuff is pretty limited, but I see that the model boat world (excluding racing types) is in the dark ages compared to planes, helis, cars etc when it comes to motors, batteries etc We have to reply a lot on testing, fiddling etc when it comes to gettingn a fast electric set up, in a scale heavy old wood boat😁 as there isnt much info out there. I tried testing over a long time, with one boat inparticular, and was lucky enough to have te use of eagle tree data logging, so could measure watts, amps, gps speed, voltage drop and so on, and analyse the resultsd on graphs etc back home on the pc. its amazing to see that sometime s the fastest set up isnt always the best when you compare run time, amp draw, heat, voltage draw etc, and what "looks fast" sometimes isnt as fast as you thought😊 This boat for example, 6kg, ply construction will do 25mph, after that torque roll is kicking in, and it want to roll over. I tested props over a long time, using cheap plastic "X" props, and with the results was then able to get a more efficient and visually pleasing brass cleaver 3 blade one. Ranging from 50mm to 55mm the amp draw went from 45a to 90a using same batteries!, and teh highest amp draw prop didnt produce the fastest speed, all interesting stuff. The boat is similar to the OP perkassa. I also went from
    direct drive
    , to a geared drive, and can change the characteristics of the boat using different cheap gears, eg., small lake, dont need top speed, so change to acceleration, big lake, lets give up acceleration and have top speed, and so onπŸ‘
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    brushless motor for a aerokits sea commander
    Hi Adijohn Welcome to the site. You can search the site for Sea Commander and will find how others have progressed with their builds. Regarding brushless I would expect a 35mm outrunner to be a suitable size with a prop of the same diameter and
    direct drive
    . The entry level power supply would be a NiMh battery of about 5000mAhr at 9.6 to 12v. if you really want the speed and endurance then LiPo is the best but does cost more and needs correct handling both when sailing and especially when charging. Brushless motors have kv ratings which indicate the free load speed per volt, so for an 800Kv motor at 10v = 8000revs (it will be less under load). They also have a wattage limit which is the product of the voltage times the amps, so for 10v at 20 amps this is 200 watts. if you exceed this the motor will overheat and fail. The ESC also has a max amp rating and best practice suggests this is twice the expected running current. You can buy a wattmeter to measure current and watts. There are many suppliers but have a look at http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Component-Shop?_trksid=p2047675.l2563. Hope this helps and if you like my response please tick the like box to help others find the post. Good luck and please post details of your build. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    King-Fisher changes made
    Grandpa, I started with a
    direct drive
    Speed 500 on 6 cells (7.2V) and it didn't have the performance I was looking for. I later changed to the Speed 600 and 8 cells (9.6V) and it made a huge difference. I'm not convinced how effective the cooling coil is as the flow from the outlet is not as much as I anticipated however this could be a function of the poor design of inlet that I'm using. Bottom line is I don't think the cooling coil is necessary. I make up my own battery packs and for this one I use two x four cells, one on each side of the centerline. As I previously stated I was a school boy when I built my original and the hard chines nearly made me throw in the towel. As an impatient youth it appeared to take for ever to plane them to match the bulkheads hence my switch over to laminations of 1/4 x 1/8 on my remake. Have fun and keep up with the posts. Robert
    2 years ago by Robert
    Response
    San Pedro Pus Boat - Engine Room Fittings
    Hi, in my model quarterwheeler Lulonga I am using a simple V-tail mixer from HK , each motor has itΒ΄s own ESC ,I mix canal 1(Ail) and canal 3 (throttle). the direction of movement I drive with one stick Thr - forward and backward .Ail - left and right. Thr if it is set in the middle position and tilting the control stick to left or right to the maximum to ensure that the motor is rotating against each other, and the ship that turns virtually in one place. wiring diagram > please look here > RC model Lulonga river tug - Posted: 5th Jan 2014 by tomarack http://mdlbt.com/12361 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr59Ipalx9g
    2 years ago by tomarack
    Media
    Michael (formerly Carol Moran)
    My grandson Michael helped me build this kit last winter. We had fun researching existing tug boats of the era, and upgrading some of the details. After the bath tub test, I changed from
    direct drive
    to a 3:1 ratio motor to keep it running at a scale speed.
    2 years ago by Ron
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) ELCO 32
    Elco 32 Built from Model Boat Plan by GG, circa 1999 ish.. Very lively even with a 400 class motor
    direct drive
    . An excellent project for the newcomer, very easy build and a good stand-off scale appearance. Deck armament was from plastic kits, very close in scale for the finishing touch. (Motor: Graupner 480) (ESC: 25A Howes Special) (8/10)
    3 years ago by muddy
    Response
    PBR MKII
    These are originally an I.C kit 1/6 scale , there is a company in Germany still making them believe they are called MHZ. I think I've scene them in 1/8 and 1/35 scale too . Also other builders have used water jet drives on films I've watched . This one is running on brushless motor normal prop and
    direct drive
    as all my boats have so far . Keeps the cost of spare parts down %uD83D%uDE0E%uD83D%uDC4D
    3 years ago by CraigRobotham
    Forum
    Sailing a straight line
    Hi Trillium, what you describe with the rudders might be the problem, water dynamics are far stronger than air. pushing in slightly different directions with the thrust of the props acting on different angles of the rudder blades, PM's idea of removing one then the other rudder is sound, also cheap!!! Possibly increase the blade area so there is more bite, particularly depth, have you considered a fixed bow rudder to hold the bows straight like a dagger plate for fast boats, the belt drive to the rudders, is this through one motor or two?? possible they are not acting together so creating a differential and potentially stalling one or both rudders in the prop wash. Are your props conta-rotating? if so have you tried reverse rotation, ie, port prop on starboard shaft, motor wireing reversed as well?? Some things to try without a total re-build
    3 years ago by jarvo
    Media
    PBR MKII
    This film was taken on our home lake at Needham Market . Originally an I.C powered boat I have converted to single brushless motor on a
    direct drive
    48mm prop , single rudder . Powered by 2*5000mah 4 cell lipos . As you can see I am very pleased with its performance . 😎
    3 years ago by CraigRobotham
    Forum
    Which Motor
    HI randhbarker I obtained a Talacre part built and its now complete. The plans show the top bridge reversed as the original had the steps facing aft but I only found this out after I had built. ?You can find details if you Google search. The model is not that big and I used a
    direct drive
    555 motor with a 7.2v NiMh and Mtronik ESC driving a three blade brass 35mm (I think) prop. I get hours of run time so I don't believe you will need a geared motor, just a low current drain high tork motor for 6v use. The hull is quite flexible and will need internal bracing to bring to the correct lines. Mine had not been built this way and I had to rebuild one side to correct the lines. The instructions are good but there are lots of parts and I suggest you identify everything before you start. it is a real builders kit and the parts need careful "fetteling" to produced a good finish and fit. Hope this helps Enjoy your building Dave
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    radar setup plans
    Hi, I initially was going to use a small 30RPM motor to directly drive a radar in my model but when it came to the mast and setup I realised I could not fit it in (shame) but if you look at RHBakers build blog of HMS Bulldog / Beagle he has posted a very good example of a radar setup that may help you? Regards Dave
    3 years ago by Pav403
    Forum
    electrics selection
    HI Gary, Built a similar model last year to 1:20 scale, used: 2 x MABUCHI RS 555PH-3255 12V 5500 rpm DC Motors. 2 x Viper 15 "plug & play" ESCs 2 x 40 m/m handed propellers-
    direct drive
    . Driven by 2 x 6V SLA (sealed lead acid) cells, connected in series. Performance seems quite realistic, although am thinking of going to a LIPO style battery pack to reduce weight. Speed is fine, but the model tends to sit a little low. Rowen
    3 years ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    PCF (Patrol Craft Fast) SWIFT Boat Vietnam Era
    HI All, I have very reluctantly decided to see if anybody would like to own my recently completed model of above. It has taken 18 months to complete, I have spent a very long time researching the real thing, this was modelled on an actual boat that served in the Vietnam war. This is a fresh build, so its not all damp and dusty and untested sitting in a garden shed for the last few years! In summary, it has a unique custom build drive train, 100%
    direct drive
    , ball raced, water cooled twin screw brushless outrunners. You cannot buy something like this. The glass fibre hull is complemented for strength and lightness with plastic and ply wheelhouse and cabins etc. Lets get to the point, its Β£525. Might seem very expensive to some, but to others that will appreciate the unique individualism, and the amount of work that has gone into this, will see that it has a top end value. The only other Swift Boat available is the much smaller Deans Marine kit, nearly Β£300 unmade, no running gear, I spent over Β£60 just on paint and weathering materials , even the flag was a special order in silk so it hangs and moves realistically The figures where sourced from America, very rare and expensive, Β£25 each, and there are 5 that have been remodelled to suit this boat. Even the 50 calibre bullets for the guns where individually hand painted. The authentic decals where special ordered from America also. Most of the poor quality white metal fittings and parts have been replaced with custom hand made brass or aluminium parts, again these cannot be bought to this quality. It has working nav lights, cabin lights, wheelhouse lights, rear deck spot light, front searchlight, twin gun turret spot lights and mast lights, operated from your transmitter from two separate circuits so you have a variety of light sequence options. A digital receiver voltage display is visible in a cabin window to prevent loss of signal due to low voltage. Also included is a Bluetooth operated sound unit, which can be operated using an included sd card which has a selection of Vietnam era music, or by Bluetooth from your phone, making this a real pleasure to sail! I will leave the receiver in if a buyer will be using a spectrum transmitter, you need your own transmitter, and possible batteries. I use lipos, we can discuss this if purchased. A custom made storage box is included It comes with spare parts, plans, and various instructions. I will deliver to Wirral, Merseyside or Cheshire, or can meet within that sort of radius. Postage is not an option, its way too big and heavy, overseas delivery is excluded, it will get broken as its fragile. If sold, the buyer will receive a comprehensive hand over to fully appreciate how the boat operates. You need a minimum of 4 channels on the transmitter to fully enjoy all the features of this boat. Maybe the timing is wrong, just before Christmas, I am selling as it just wont get enough use and it needs to be enjoyed, my new hobby of rc flying is also very expensive, so funds are needed for this! A comprehensive build log is available to see, please pm me if interested. Whilst the boat would make a real nice ornament, it really needs to be used and enjoyed, on the few occasions I have sailed, it looks fantastic and draws a crowd. Thanks for looking, treat yourself! πŸ‘
    3 years ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    Model Slipway Tsekoa
    HI all. I have owned a Tsekoa for many years (ready built), but not used it much, or should I say for long periods. It is
    direct drive
    with standard twin 600's. I've always known it was too fast so have slowed it down on the Electronize speed controllers. But I don't get duration from it for steering competitions. I noticed recently that a lot of them on various forums have reduction drive. Is anyone using
    direct drive
    in their's and if so what. I have 2 x 6v in parallel SLA batteries fitted. Was looking at the low RPM Graupner 500E. MFA don't make the belt reduction anymore (but I do have 2 if needed). I find Graupner gears very noisy. Cheers Derek
    3 years ago by Derek
    Forum
    Motor selection
    HI colecanth I think haverlock must have missed the bit about the gearbox and was referring to
    direct drive
    . Your motor with the gearbox will not overpower the model and the props will be suitable. The original may well have used a different motor and prop but as you already have a suitable set up you can and should use what you have. if the power is a bit high you can reduce the battery voltage, but I am assuming you will be using an ESC so will have full control over the speed. I tried the web site suggested but couldn't connect, http://eezebilt.tk/range.html shows the range of kits and may help with your build. Dave πŸ˜€
    3 years ago by Dave M


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info