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    (Naval Ship) MTB 49
    Scratch built Thornycroft MTB from a 1960s Vic Smeed plan. Boat is 40yrs old from start till now. Bought plans in 1968 and finished 20 yrs later working on and off. Was twin prop with single Futaba ESC, on 27Mhz then an
    electronize
    ESC on FM 40 Mhz now have just converted it to twin car ESCs and added a sound unit and is now run on 2.4 . Has a 100mm 12v computer fan for cooling with heat sinks on the motors. Has separate cabin lights and running lights. (Motor: 380 27MM) (ESC: CHINA) (5/10)
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Media
    Thornycroft MTB
    Just converted this 40yr old twin brushless model (scratch built from a Vic Smeed plan) to a proper independent twin system plus a sound unit. Started off with a 70s Futaba ESC on 27mhz, then on FM, then replaced with an
    electronize
    unit on FM, then to 2.4 and now on 2.4 with twin ESCs and converted TGY S6 (twin throttles). Maneuvers a lot better and makes a better noise.
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single
    electronize
    unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    S 100 Schnellboot RC build
    Hi Doug yes I did try the three prop set up first MFA 385's if I remember correctly running on a
    electronize
    30 speed controler.but replaced them with a Graupner eco 500 I think ?
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Graupner ranzow refitting
    I originally built this about 6 years ago when I was still a novice builder and some mistakes were made and it ended up partially sinking , it was left in the workshop for about a year before I decided to refit it out. The deck just lifted of the framing without any problems because it was rotten as well as some of the framing , the motors and prop shafts had seized and most of the electrics and the battery had shorterd and corroded due to the sinking. I had been doing the odd bits of the refit over the past couple of years not really in any rush to complete it. After replacing the rotten framing I started to replace the electrics with all new gear Battery 12v 7mah Motors Mtronic 560 Working crane using 3 mini motors with Mr RC world micro speed controllers Working anchor winch (krick I think) Full lighting kit and working radar Main speed controllers
    electronize
    The pictures shows as it is now ready for the new decking to be fitted
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery
    Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the jobπŸ‘ Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😑, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for
    electronize
    (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will helpπŸ‘
    1 year ago by pmdevlin
    Response
    Question- Prop rotatio direction?
    Hi Dave, I’ve gone for the single
    electronize
    esc simply because the reviewer who did a refurb in septembers model boats mag and he seem to find it fine? I’ve modified the rudders in the hope that she will turn ok. if after testing I find it does have difficulty turning, I shall look at swapping the current esc for a pair. Thank you for your comments, kind regards sy
    2 years ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    Dauntless
    Hi Doug...it's this one: and no that little issue is still ongoing...have changed my Tx/Rx/ESC to Turnigy....the Mtroniks ESC's I was using were 'compromised' regarding the set-up...I now have a programmable card to set up my ESC's - The Dauntless has been converted to a Police launch, it's a twin screw using two
    electronize
    ESC's.....just needs a Tx/Rx and batteries, possibly looking at lead acid x2
    2 years ago by NickW
    Forum
    Servos & motor having a wobbly
    Hi Doug I well remember these chokes and that capacitor. I do believe modern thinking is to wrap the low current wires to the ESC round a circular choke, there are never any chokes in the supplied ESCs motor leads. I do recall advice on one of the forums regarding not putting any inductance in the motor leads, not sure if it was
    electronize
    or Mtronic who gave the advice. They both adopted high frequency pulses for control a few years ago and there was lots of discussion as people upgraded their old ESC to a new one. Chokes were quite common in the past but the technology was vastly different to that used by modern ESCs. Are you sure the interference is from the motor? I had a very similar symptom with a faulty servo, very similar to that Eric is using. I have asked him to unplug the servo and see if the problem goes away. So far I have not had a reply so can only guess what might be the problem. Cheers Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    RAF fIRE TENDER MAST DETAILS ??
    Yes upgraded the motor to a torpedo 850 12 blots on an
    electronize
    15 amp esc. Goes quite well
    2 years ago by none
    Forum
    12 volt motors to esc,s
    The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as
    electronize
    esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..
    2 years ago by none
    Forum
    MFA Torpedo 850 motor
    I use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122489724489?ul_noapp=true in my S-Boot and PT boat both driving 3x motors ie MFA 850's and Graupner 600's those Blue or pink ones I had trouble with as with Not
    electronize
    but the other ones.They are car ones and you could probably get similar ones in the UK . They may be chinese amps but they handle 40amps plus no bother
    2 years ago by camyaj
    Forum
    MFA Torpedo 850 motor
    I have used
    electronize
    ESC driving MFa 850's in my 54 inch Arun for 5 years with no problems and am putting the same system in my Tyne. As to cost, what is reasonable?
    2 years ago by Threelegs
    Forum
    MFA Torpedo 850 motor
    Hi Mark I was refering to the Blue as shown in the link posted by Sonar, I should have made it clearer that
    electronize
    are brilliant and I have never seen or heard of any problems. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    MFA Torpedo 850 motor
    Hi Dave M, the
    electronize
    ESC's i was refering to are good for 24volts and i think 30 amps, the other reference was to the blue chinese esc's that had a nasty habit of smoking Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    MFA Torpedo 850 motor
    Hi Sonar, if you are running 2 motors, make sure you have good capacity in hand, these are powerful motors and need a good ESC to handle them, i used one with a chinese "50amp" esc and it produced magic smoke within a few minutes, changed to an
    electronize
    and its run for 2 years now Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    And now it is ESC time
    Hi Sonar I have been building electronics for many years as a hobby so am speaking from experience. The circuits you mention are for Forward only so may not suit if you require reverse. As it happens I am repairing an
    electronize
    VR ESC and there are two large Schottky diodes protecting the MOSFET. The motors seem to be designed for industrial use and are very similar to car heater fan motors which I have used in my model tugs and damaged the MOSFETs in the ESC. Not all motors have multiple poles, which appear to be the main culprits. If you have a problem at least you can go back to the supplier and ask for your money back. I am sure Engel is perfectly legitimate and provides a good and efficient service and I agree that PayPay is a secure payment method. However the site connection is insecure and any personal or financial details you provide on line to the website be it for card or PayPal will be visible to anyone to intercept. The https in their address is incorrect and could well lead you to believe the connection was secure. I think Doug has identified the motor manufacturer and the motors may be end of line stock being sold by Engel. it certainly looks an impressive motor. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    And now it is ESC time
    Hi Specs say 180Watt so 15amp max at 12v. I suspect the actual stall current is somewhat higher - a wattmeter connected between the battery and motor whilst briefly stalling the motor with a wooden clothes peg should give an indication. I do mean momentary unless you want to cook the motor or wires! The
    electronize
    will work up to 24 volts which would halve the current and may be a better solution. I was going to look on the site and see if they suggest an ESC but my McAfee warned me off- don't know why. This is a commercial motor and from its pic I suspect high current. it's also possible that it is multipole and may be generating lots of back emf which may need some fast Schottky diodes adding to the ESCs to protect the MOSFETS. I would check with the tech guys at the ESC suppliers to see if they recommend their product for this motor. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Using old motors
    Hi Martin I see from your profile you are in a rural area so you may be OK with your rc gear. ESCs can be expensive but generally work well. You will need a brushless type and both
    electronize
    and Mtronic should work. I suggest you look them up on the web and either send an e-mail or ring them up to see what they suggest for your motor. Both allow you to set the nul point to your tx and require the minimum of programming to set up. Perhaps your friend could visit his loft and let you have one of his Bob Bords. I have not seen any advertised for many years and I disposed of all I had to friends who were still using. Good luck and please keep us posted with your progress. I would be interested to hear how you fare with the old rc gear. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Media
    Original Aerokits Solent Lifeboat
    Decided to sail the Solent so took some video to share. Uses 2 Bhuler 12v brushed motors with 4 bladed 45mm PropShop props and 12v 12AHr SLA. Twin
    electronize
    ESCs. Radio is Futaba 6Ex but I will probably change to the Taranis so I can get better control using some bespoke Tx settings to co-ordinate the props and rudder. Lifeboat crewe had been on a night out so not quite vertical. Aplogies for the shaky video, it's difficult to sail and video at the same time.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    2 motors 1 esc
    I have used this type of motor and they work well. if you are after torque then a five pole motor will give more. You are running at excess voltage so they will exhibit some stress if run at full power for any length of time. You should measure the current at 12v to see what is being drawn, I believe mine when connected and running free used to draw about 2.5 amps on 12v. it will be considerably more under load. I used three 0.1 uF capacitors across the terminals and case as they will spark at the higher voltage. Do also make sure that all your (dirty) power wiring is well clear of any servo wires and the rx and aerial. They can be quite current hungry and I used an
    electronize
    ESC on each motor. Any good 20/25 amp ESC will be suitable but if you are using two and they have a built in ESC you need to remove the red (+ve) wire from one ESC lead to the Rx. Good luck and please post details of your final choice and experience. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Alternative motors
    Hi Sonar Used to be very popular with the model Tug fraternity. I had two in my Eldergarth (4') and they worked fine. They are able to turn large coarse bladed props with ease and do not normally require any cooling. I used a couple of
    electronize
    ESC's but any 20/30 amp make should be OK. They are not fast revving so most suited to Tugs, workboats, cargo vessels and fishing boats. if you have a fast boat they would not be suitable. Weight may also be a problem in smaller models
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Value of a Boston Blenheim Trawler
    So we have a : Boston Blenheim Trawler 37"L and 8" W In full working order powered by a 12v ex windscreen wiper motor
    electronize
    ESC and uses a 12v SLA, possibly needing replacing 12v charger for SLA Radio is Hobbyzone FM (2 or 4 ?)channel on 27.045 Can be seen sailing at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StFHQU2pY80 I assume you are considering selling the model in which case I would expect you could expect to receive ( I have sent the amount by personal message) from an interested buyer. There is a free FOR SALE section in this forum where you could advertise your model. I would add the static pics you have already used in previous posts. You will need to specify your location and indicate it is collection only. You can't post your e-mail address or phone number but can ask interested parties to send you a private e-mail. Hope this helps Dave
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Value of a Boston Blenheim Trawler
    Ok yes it is a car wiper motor and I can see an
    electronize
    ESC. I assume this has the BEC version so can you confirm the 12v battery is the only battery on the boat. Are you including a charger for the SLA battery? What make of Rc gear is fitted (Futaba/Hitek etc) and what frequency does it use 27Mhz 40Mhz or 2.4Ghz? if the Tx uses rechargeable batteries is a charger included? Dave
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Sailing a straight line
    Hi Roy I do believe your problem could be solved with prop shafts extending from both ends. I am not familiar with the motors but expect they are mabuchi or similar rebadged. The
    electronize
    site has a section on motors http://
    electronize
    .net/motors.htm . This gives the expected current for different size props at various voltages. The stall current at 12v is given as 2.6amps for the 365-14. Can you measure the current with your props? if one motor is drawing higher current this may indicate an internal fault. I am not a fan of 360 size motors as they can be very greedy current wise and have a tendency to overheat resulting in deteriorating performance in a very short time. I had two in a Coast Guard cutter but now have two brushless which are much more powerful and reliable as well as running for much longer. Not that I am suggesting such for your model ferry. My personal preference for a scale model is a"555" type motor. it is a high tork low current motor that works very well in low speed models and allows scale size props to be fitted. I use three in my 1:96 scale RMS Olympic and have several smaller scale models that also use a single motor. Regarding your Tamiya connectors they can after some use become unreliable especially if high currents are involved. You can static test any connection by using a multimeter on the lowest Ohm range. There should be no resistance recorded if the joint/connection is good. I doubt if this is a problem as you are feeding all from a single battery (or pair). Dave
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Sailing a straight line
    The motors currently fitted are
    electronize
    model 365/14. Does anyone else have experience with this model?
    electronize
    motors are generally not cheap, but this model is one of the cheapest in their range. What would be a recommendation for a "good" motor? The test data above is with load on the motors - I should have mentioned that. Motors in the hull and the hull in the water, loaded down to the waterline. The prop shafts are Raboesch waterproof shafts, with a "G" seal, so they are water-lubricated. The connectors to/from ESC are as supplied on Mtroniks Viper models. To motor are all bullet type. THey are sound - clean and a bugger to separate. On the input side they are Tamiya connectors - look clean but how to test? Battery supply wires to ESC connectors are from screw terminal strip - I'll check cleanliness and retighten. Wouldn't it be nice if the motors were made with a shaft extension at both ends; just a thought. Roy
    3 years ago by Trillium
    Forum
    Sailing a straight line
    I have not been able to do more testing yet, but I can provide more information as requested. I have not seen any consistency in which direction it deviates from the straight line. That is the most puzzling part of this. if it always went one way, it would point me in the right direction, so to speak. I do know that before I replaced both motors, one shaft would always run a little slower than the other, but I used to compensate for that with the throttle to get it sailing straight. I now have two
    electronize
    motors installed, which appear to run at the same speed, but I haven't put a meter on them. Mtroniks Viper Marine ESC's are used for control. This is a 1/64 scale model of the Royal Iris, the Wallasey cruise/ferry vessel. Amongst other operational tricks, they would depart from a landing stage by going astern on the outboard screw and ahead on the inboard, to swing the bow out before moving ahead. Straight line sailing is necessary, but manoeuvring is more fun, which is why I have (and want to keep) independent control of the screws. The hull is self-built, balsa plank on frame and then fibreglassed. it is powered by four 6V NiMH battery packs arranged in series-parallel to provide a single 12V supply. This also supplies the lighting in the superstructure. The radio is powered separately by a 6V non-rechargeable alkaline battery pack. NiMH batteries are used to keep the weight down so that the hull immersion is correct; four packs are used to distribute the weight and trim the hull correctly. The model also carries a speaker/sound system, which plays period music, and has its own battery.
    3 years ago by Trillium
    Response
    H.M.S BULLDOG / BEAGLE
    I have the 48 inch long hms bull dog this runs on 12 volt 7 ap battery with two 12 volt motors and it runs fine useing 2
    electronize
    speed controlls with bec and useing the speed controll biult in to go fast or slow. ALL THE BEST ALBERT
    3 years ago by Albert
    Forum
    WESTBOURNE MODEL CO.
    hI admiral I can understand your annoyance with Westbourne but it is not
    electronize
    's problem as your contract is with Westbourne. if you used plastic or paypal I suggest you report the matter and hope they will take the necessary action to either get you the goods or your money back.
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    WESTBOURNE MODEL CO.
    thumbsdown: Westbourne take my money. Fail to deliver 6 weeks gone by, I should have read all those bad reviews prior to order. I have asked
    electronize
    , speed control wholesaler, to supply and get paid by by Westbourne. No reply from
    electronize
    , pity, as Ive been their product user for many years.
    3 years ago by admiral
    Forum
    Model Slipway Tsekoa
    HI all. I have owned a Tsekoa for many years (ready built), but not used it much, or should I say for long periods. It is direct drive with standard twin 600's. I've always known it was too fast so have slowed it down on the
    electronize
    speed controllers. But I don't get duration from it for steering competitions. I noticed recently that a lot of them on various forums have reduction drive. Is anyone using direct drive in their's and if so what. I have 2 x 6v in parallel SLA batteries fitted. Was looking at the low RPM Graupner 500E. MFA don't make the belt reduction anymore (but I do have 2 if needed). I find Graupner gears very noisy. Cheers Derek
    3 years ago by Derek
    Forum
    what esc should I use with graupner 900 bb motors
    Definitely recommend the
    electronize
    esc I use the FR 30 hx in my vosper which has. Two Graupner 900 motors. The esc's give excellent control ahead and astern.
    3 years ago by kevinsharpe
    Forum
    what esc with graupner 900 motors
    HI I definitely recommend the
    electronize
    FR 30 HX. I use two of these in my 52" Vosper fast patrol boat which has two Graupner 900 motors. I run both at 24 volts which the motors and speed controllers can easily handle. They are a quality esc with excellent repair back up.
    3 years ago by kevinsharpe
    Forum
    what esc with graupner 900 motors
    HI Tugboatguy I favour
    electronize
    ESC my Amsterdam has a T.24v motor from mobile marein, this with 2 12v gel cells mainly for ballast, works fine. with a 90mm 4blade prop from propshop. Hope this helps Mark
    3 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Old speed controller
    HI Derek I have a similar background with electronics and have also built several
    electronize
    . I noted your comment re cost and agree the Mtronik are costly so did not mention their offering. I am assuming the 8.4v is not providing enough power hence the need for the higher voltage. if the model has a motor that is also 15 years old it could be past its best performance wise. if you have another motor you could try replacing. if the new motor runs on a lower voltage this may be an alternative and even if you have to buy a motor it would be cheaper than the ESC. Good hunting Dave
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Old speed controller
    There is absolutely no info on the ESC, it does have reverse. I use 8.4v currently on it. Used
    electronize
    for years, those with the relay, Used to build them up for others just for fun when my eyes were younger. Best thing I did with those was to install a socket for the relay as they were a common failure. Still have several in use. The only ones on ebay over 12v without water cooling have a fan or have a hill hold for trucks and for 2 motors. Mtroniks do one, but hate paying their prices.
    3 years ago by Derek
    Forum
    Old speed controller
    HI Derek Not a lot to see. is there any detail on the other side of the controller? Judging by the wires it is a fairly high current ESC. Early ESCs were usually aimed at the car racers and did not have reverse. Can you reverse yours? 7.2 v NiCad/NiMh were common and ESC's were rated up to 12v. To use 14.4 you will need a more modern ESC that will be capable of handling the higher voltage.
    electronize
    are good to 24v but you will find others if you search the web. As the unit is sealed it is not possible to see what power FETs have been used. Unfortunately if you exceed the Max voltage they will be destroyed so unless someone can identify your ESC you cannot be sure.
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Media
    PT 109
    Nice little PT Boat I bought off Gordon @ our Club it runs on a 7.2 battery with a
    electronize
    FR30 Speed Controller with BECs twin 540 Motors with plenty of detail on it
    4 years ago by Northumbrian
    Forum
    2.4gig Radio and brushed motors???
    Hello Jarvo & Haverlock. I had been googling before I read latest due to a problem I had yesterday. You're correct about ariel length, I wasn't thinking... (Car Ariel's had to be 39"), but that's off topic. One of my boats shot off on its own, hit the concrete and flipped. The reciver is directly above the motor and alongside the speed controller. Never had this issue with an
    electronize
    . But now have a solid state type. Last week had similar issue with same boat, but only went a few yards. Should have been a warning. Time for a refit.
    4 years ago by Derek
    Media
    Royal Iris
    Another Mersey ferry and another Royal Iris. This is 1:64 scale (3/16":ft), measures 29" long and weighs 11lbs. Powered by NiMH 6V batteries and
    electronize
    365-14 motors. it is fitted with either a self-contained sound system playing the 60's "Liverpool sound " music, or fitted with 12V NiMH batteries to illuminate the lights.
    4 years ago by Trillium
    Forum
    Blowing fuses
    HI Georgio I have an Aerokits Solent (pics attached). Some pics show the model in an earler guise. I have recently upgraded the electrics and corrected the number. its a model of the Douglas Currie 48-016 This type of lifeboat had a top speed of about 9/10 knots so was not as fast as the later fast afloat boats. Two 850 motors would be much to powerful for this model. Regarding the waterline most models I see are usually ballasted far to low in the water, the real boat had a draught of 4'8" and in service it was usually possible to see the white bottom paint just above the waterline. I use two Bhuler 12v motors with two
    electronize
    ESCs and a 12v 12 amp SLA. Sails at scale speed and I can usually get a good hour if I use fast speed sparingly. The fact that you have lost a prop suggests that you may not have thrust washers and locknuts at either end of your prop tubes. As you have found without a locknut the props can and do become detached. Another symptom is that without lock nuts the whole shaft can tighten up and seize, especially if you do not have a locknut at the drive end. The thrust washers take the load when going ahead or astern and you should adjust so that there is minimal play between the washer and bearing. We used to use cigarret paper to set the clearance. Glad to hear you are managing to sail, I used to sail on the original lake when I lived on the Wirral, and I do hope you can sort out all the niggling little problems. Cheers Dave
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Vliestroom...................
    Hello everyone, I recently decided I wanted another model boat to get my 5 year old son interested in the all things maritime, I managed to secure a nice example of the Vliestroom from Model Slipway, Now the issue I need help with ( aside form the fact I have no modelling skills as such I am hopeless ) is I wish to be able to split the engine by having each motor on independent ESC's etc. So I need to find someone who could help me achieve this in the Sussex area, to either advise me of take the job on to convert it from the single
    electronize
    Tye 43HX that is in there, The boat sails really well but I think will be better as I mentioned, Also the bow thruster is install but not connected so that is an option also, Any body able to help me or advise me where to go I would be most grateful. Cheers πŸ˜€ πŸ‘
    4 years ago by mbthepilot
    Forum
    Vliestroom...................
    Thanks for your reply Haverlock, As I mentioned I have limited skills on this front, and although what you say sounds simple, I know I would fritz it up, The boat is now in Sussex Model Centre and they are fitting two brand new Viper ESC's, The
    electronize
    has water damage to it now they thinks, so in a few days it will all be fitted tested and calibrated, And I can take my boy off sailing with it. πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€
    4 years ago by mbthepilot
    Forum
    Vliestroom...................
    Ok lets make this a little more simple! Contact
    electronize
    and ask them for a suitable replacement ESC . Now you will have two sets of motor wires connected to your existing ESC disconnect one and couple to your new unit. get a "Y" lead so the RC side of the ESCs can be coupled together and connected to your receiver. IMPORTANT if you have a BEC ( battery eliminator ) on your existing ESC ( you will know this if you do NOT have a receiver battery) you will need to cut the red receiver lead on your new unit. If you don't you will fry something !!!!!!
    4 years ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Vliestroom...................
    HI All. Just thought id mention, the
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    43HX is a 15amp unit and unfortunately no longer made. The reason I mention this, is because, on all currant versions, the numbers relates to their ampage. Hope this may be of help. Doug. 😊
    4 years ago by Doug
    Forum
    Vliestroom...................
    HI mbthepilot Welcome to the site. Sorry not in the Sussex area but I can perhaps help with what may be required. Your existing set up has both motors wired to a single
    electronize
    ESC so if you were to buy another ESC of the same type you could disconnect the wires ( probably blue and yellow) from one motor and connect them to the new ESC. The battery connections (Red and Black) for both ESCs can go to the battery already installed. it is important that both red wires go to the positive terminal and black to the negative. You will then have two connectors to go to the receiver. if you only have a two channel TX/RX you will need to purchase a RX Y connector so that both ESC's can be connected to the RX throttle channel. If you have a multichannel TX/RX you can use separate channels for each ESC. I normally use both vertical sticks for motors and a horizontal stick for the rudder. If you do have more than a two channel TX/RX you could use a further channel to operate the bow thruster through another ESC. As space may be a problem I suggest you look at an Mtronic ESC either the 10amp or possibly the 15amp if the motor is high current. Hopefully someone in your area will be able to give more hands on help. Have you looked at our Model Boat Club section to see if there is a club near to your location? if so I suggest you make contact as they will be able to help. Good luck and please keep us posted with your progress Dave
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Connecting ESP ?
    Hello all - I have just re kindled an old Interest In RC boats and have an Aerokit Sea Commander at the electrics stage. I have a two ch. Futaba controller and a
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    43HX esc. The thin red, black & white leads from the esc connect to channel 2 of the Futaba receiver. How do I know which of the three pins to connect the three coloured leads to as they are not pre fitted with a correct polarity plugin ( like the plugs already fitted to the servo unit) ? Many thanks, Keith.
    4 years ago by kwjg51
    Forum
    Connecting ESP ?
    HI Keith The stats I found on the Caldercraft site were: CEM-750S Nominal Voltage: 8.4V Operating Range: 4.8-12V RPM at Nominal Voltage: 18800 No Load Current: 1A Fairly similar to what you quote so the 15amp
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    will be ideal. As with any electrical kit a fuse is always a good idea to protect the model and equipment should a fault develop and the motor gets stalled. According to your figures the stall is 92Amps but you ESC will shut down well before then. I would use a 15 amp fuse in the positive connection from the main battery. I suspect the advised battery is more to do with what's commonly available and the fact that many ESCa (not yours) are limited to
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Connecting ESP ?
    HI guys - just received the new 15A
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    esc. I still have to get the battery pack and am thinking 8.4 V 3800AH. Nimh. How will this set up work. I'm not well up in electronics. My spec is ... Aerokits Sea Commander with supplied 750 12v motor and 40mm 2 blade prop. Should I have gone for a higher amp esc ? Would you expect the model to plane and how long should it run on a charge ? I had originally intended to use 12v lead acid but hull space is a bit too restricted and it is probably too heavy anyway. Thank you, Keith.
    4 years ago by kwjg51
    Forum
    Connecting ESP ?
    Thanks Dave - looks like you were correct about the mosfet (about which I know nothing) but I gave the damaged esc to a friend of a friend etc. and he is repairing. in the meantime I just ordered a new 15amp
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    unit and will use the repaired one in the next build. Thanks for all the contributions. Regards, Keith.
    4 years ago by kwjg51


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