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    Forum
    Night Watch
    I like your post about your wife's welding ability Colin. It's very encouraging, Alice purchased an old milk float a little while ago, with the intention of restoring it and converting it into a mini camper van. However, the chassis needs some welding and that's something she knows nothing about. Reading that your wife has acquired the art, no doubt taught by a master welder, will encourage Alice to do likewise. Perhaps you would tell me what kind of welding
    equipment
    you would recommend. All the best, Nerys.
    7 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Algerine Class Minesweeper H.M.S. Pluto
    Hi Doug, This is what i was referring to. http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/images/HMS_BRAMBLE.jpg ยฃ275.30 HMS Bramble [425] ALGERINE MINESWEEPERS These ships were built between 1942 and 1945 and were fitted with magnectic, acoustic, and mechanical sweeping
    equipment
    . It would seem that this class of ship developed from the Halcyon class of minesweeper of the 1930's still retaining some of their general appearance. These ships, having been built in the U.K. and Canada, later served in the Canadian and most Western Alliance Navys. Details of the kit Scale 1/96 Length 762m Beam 120mm Sailing weight 2.21kgs The model is based on a plated fibre glass hull. All decks are LASER CUT 1.5MM HIPS SHEET and superstructure is in 1mm printed plastic sheet format with turret, funnel, boats etc in vacformed plastic. Weapons and fine detail fittings are in cast in light alloy, and all larger items are cast in lightweight plastic. Stanchions and ladders for that extra fine detail are in etched brass. Propshafts and tubes are included in this kit along with the rudder and tiller arm. THE FULL SIZE PLAN is from the D McGregor range. With its twin screws and twin motors and short length/beam ratio this makes into one of the busiest little models in our range and she has all the outstanding handling qualities of her bigger and full size sister. The close range weapons fit on this model are 4 40mm bofors guns. The kit contains a comprehensive set of instructions. Martin555.
    8 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Warwick Model Boat Show.
    Hi Nerys, sorry we missed you, problem is that I didn't know what you looked like. We thoroughly enjoyed the day, got a few bits for the grandsons boat. I was really inspired by the model barge owners display, and they were very helpful in giving me advice and they were the only stand that had free information booklets. Likewise my wife was truly impressed by the friendly team. The only other really helpful team was knightcote MBC. They offered me help with my vintage rc
    equipment
    . If only I had found you I'm sure we could have managed a chat over a cup of tea. I take it Alice was with you to stop you straying off with anyone. The one thing that keeps me modelling is my grandson's imagination. I don't know how he thinks but he has some wonderful ideas, especially with building stuff in lego and meccano. Got to go wife's calling, it's dinner time. By for now, cheers Colin.
    8 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Wanted
    Sorry Burman , but your cryptic posts in different threads are confusing us ๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค“ We'd love to help but we need to know what you are trying to do!! What is the boat or ship you are building? What RC
    equipment
    / modules have you built in already? I believe you have maybe a problem coordinating a sound system with other RC components? Please confirm, or correct my assumption! Please describe for us all the RC modules you have on board and the RC system (TX and RX) that you are using, and what does not work as you had expected ๐Ÿค” Best regards, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Re your Post "Help help Need some advice about set up with jjc got slave with steam whistle fine.when plug steam sound with lead all goes pear shaped been trying all combos but no joy .Very annoying. Need some advice cheers .col๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”" Would be better Burman if you posted your questions on this problem under one thread only; in this case perhaps using the Topic RC and Electrical?
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Night Watch
    to- Fleet Admiral RNHQ Munchen. Thank you for your comments and to answer your query, we are fitted with the latest geiger counters and other appropriate
    equipment
    . We liaise extremely well with the two Welsh units, their skippers, Brinli on Y Mers and Meredydd on Henffordd and I cooperate on a programme of seamanship training which I doubt would be even dreamt of in other navies. All our crews are taught both semaphore and morse and we actually use them for communication at sea. We have two ex RN whalers and four RNSA sailing dinghies in which they receive extensive instruction in sailing, rowing and sculling with one oar over the stern. This gives them better small boat handling skills than if they only used the ships semi rigid powered inflatables. We teach ropework from basic knots to splicing (including wire splicing) and fancy ropework. They also learn the traditional Rule of the Road at Sea and basic coastal navigation. We feel our crews are far more capable seamen than many and better able to cope in an emergency. I would suggest similar programmes are introduced in our other flotillas. SubLt. Nerys.
    10 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Night Watch
    Bristol Channel Patrol. Sunday 22/09/19 In consultation with the senior ratings on board, it was decided that an end of summer Banyan Party would be held today. Mess funds would stretch to it, so wives and girlfriends would also be invited. Slipped moorings at 1100 hrs proceeded down channel on a westerly course. Anchored in lee of Sully Island and ship's boats landed cooks and barbecue
    equipment
    to prepare for party. Rest of ship's company and guests then taken ashore. Jollifications and overeating then took place. 1530, ship's company and guests re-embarked and ship returned to base. Mooring at 1700. A pleasant day for everyone concerned and considered a well worthwhile morale building exercise. SubLt. Nerys
    10 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Fast attack craft
    Hi Jb, Yes I agree that you require a certain amount of knowledge about the
    equipment
    that you use and the health and safety side of things. The point I was trying to say is that if you hear all the bad things about batteries exploding/smoking then nine times out of ten it is not suitable for the job or someone trying a short cut to charging. I have heard many stories of this happening but someone new to this hobby will think that it is to dangerous and look for a different hobby. I think that the important thing to get across is using the
    equipment
    properly rather than going in to the in' and out's of the very technical descriptions of various bits and pieces. I am probably not making it any clearer what I am trying to say. Martin555.
    10 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Upgrade to 2.4
    I was given rc lifeboat for birthday went to pond all other users were on new 2.4 which took my signal.i know nothing about rc.can u fit this 2.4
    equipment
    in this life boat please .I live up in north east near Darlington
    10 months ago by Blinky
    Forum
    Upgrade to 2.4
    This is a plastic boat which used to be sold in large numbers for the RNLI. It is now rather rare and is collectable. Here is one on Ebay for ยฃ127! Note - that does not mean that they will get a sale at that price - but they will still sell for quite a lot! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-RNLI-SEVERN-RADIO-CONTROL-LIFEBOAT-RNLB-VOLUNTEER-SPIRIT-GREAT-CONDITION/264428640626?hash=item3d912cd972:g:8OYAAOSwrdRdUWr8 These were often converted to 'proper' 2.4GHz by modellers. I've never examined one, but I think they are 27Mhz, driving two motors which provide steering and power. If that is so, a conversion would mean buying a 2.4Ghz radio set, a single motor and propshaft and a servo and rudder, taking out the entire inside of the boat and re-installing the new
    equipment
    . You would need some modelling skill to do this. It is unlikely that the other 2.4Ghz sets interfered with your signal. The 27Mhz set installed in your boat will have limited range compared with the 2.4Ghz systems, but it should work adequately close to you. Perhaps your batteries are weak, the aerial is badly positioned, or there was some 27Mhz interference close to you? If someone else was using a 27Mhz radio close to you then it may interfere if they and you were on the same 'spot frequency'. The 27Mhz band is divided up into sections, and only one boat can use one of those sections at a time. These sections are given colours, and you fly a coloured flag on your aerial to tell everyone that you are using that section - called a 'spot'. Do you know what spot your boat is on, and was there anyone flying a coloured flag on their aerial near you? I think you have a difficult decision. Either keep it as it is and make it work as well as it can, or get some help and spend some money converting it. I would try to get it working as well as I could first. Have you tried a range check? Get someone to hold the boat while you walk away with the controller and see how far it will work... and the next time you take it to the pond, ask one of the experienced modellers if they can help a bit...
    10 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Sea Commander.
    Thanks guys, but it looks like a new wiring job as some of the wiring has black wires instead of the nice shiny copper it should be, and I think it deserves a better motor, possibly a 600 as I have a few spare, and esc control. Also as it only needs 2 channels I will fit it with a new rx that will work with my tx's. But will stick to my vintage stock so could be 40mhz. So this one gets put aside till my old sea commander gets finished. But I will box up all the
    equipment
    ready to fit. Cheers Colin. ๐Ÿคž
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Fast attack craft
    Hi Nerys, I agree with you it is definitely not my thing either. But as you say I might appeal to the younger ones. I will have to think of something more seaworthy and large enough to be able to have room for some decent radio
    equipment
    in it. Something that will appeal to a bigger audience. Mjartin555.
    10 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Workshop
    I have finally finished the new Shipyard. I had help to do the final build as it came as planks of wood. I painted the floor today which only leaves the outside walls to cover with a second coat. I will try to get a workbench installed before I have to go back home and work. This will be my retirement office when her in doors who must be obeyed says I can have the day off. I am lucky as my testing `lake` is at the bottom of the garden. The Danube.๐Ÿ˜€ I will buy a few small machines over the next year or so and then, hopefully, have a bit of uninterrupted building time. I have seen the lovely pictures of Colin`s new workshop but I would love to see where others do their work as well and the
    equipment
    used.
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Workshop
    During the last 2 or 3 years of my working life I had the foresight to use my profit sharing bonus to acquire the more expensive machinery, test
    equipment
    and tools. Not to mention a stash of some rather large kits, 2.4Gig RC gear and a collection of ESCs and components! Would all have been impossible now with just the pension! Especially as the rent just went upโ˜น๏ธ ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    "Perhaps DG is the best one to answer this -" Dunno why - my boats will sink like anyone else's if they fill up with water. Partly it's horses for courses - don't sail a boat with a low freeboard on the choppy side of the lake where the waves break over the bow. Fast boats which deflect water away might get away with it - slower displacement hulls where the water creeps up the side won't. Google 'Coandฤƒ effect' for a more technical description of the reason water sticks to surfaces. Tugs usually have heavy ballast and are more likely to have waves breaking over them than to ride up and over them. And sealing a deck effectively is going to depend very much on the way it's designed to fit on the hull... Adams of Adamcraft fame in the 1950s used to stretch clear plastic 'clingfilm' over the decks of his open boats (it was invented in '49!) to keep the water out, and you might find that trick useful if you have to have a removable deck. The clingfilm would go underneath the deck, of course... Sinking is less of a problem with EeZeBilts (though the Beaver with its heavy ballast would go down). They are made of many watertight compartments. If your boat doesn't have such flotation support, try using expanded foam in all the spare cavities. I do this in my boats, partly as a safety measure, partly to deaden the motor sound and stop the decks from 'drumming' and partly because I mount batteries and radio
    equipment
    in it. Here is a shot of a PT Boat with removable centre deck, which is happy in heavy waves - you can see the foam blocks...
    11 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: Up to now
    You are doing a great job,keep up the good work. Unfortunately when they design these models they tend to forget about being able to get at all of the radio
    equipment
    as well as motors and rudder. Martin555.
    11 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Wandering far off course but had to sing a song about youngsters - in 2008 (?) heard of an 18 year old at the Beaulieu Auto Jumble - at the Austin 7 stand - had rebuilt a Seven by himself aged 16 made a very good job of it but had to wait for his drivers licence ........ Only one local tyre shop in Bournemouth was able to fit and balance new tyres on my MG Midgets wire wheels - run by a youngster of 25 who devised the method of doing so with limited
    equipment
    . Met at least another three similar youngsters in UK - all very competent and skilled - sad thing about it was they were all emigrating because of the "Nanny State" and the "Elf & Saveless".
    11 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Where are they?
    Most modern electronic
    equipment
    is fitted with a Critical Needs Detector. The CND is a miracle of modern software - it can automatically determine whether you REALLY need any item it is bundled with, and only at that point will it create a bug, total systems failure, or, in your case, simply make the
    equipment
    unavailable. Seems to work particularly well with photocopiers...
    12 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Fishtailing
    DG, that's 2006, 13yrs ago when most people were still on FM. Most of that stuff probably doesn't apply these days with 2.4. We used to have a narrow 'hot spot' with FM around that time on our local 'unofficial' flying field (now a huge mall) and we put it down to perhaps being between 2 cell phone towers or an underground power cable. We even asked surveyors who were using satellite positioning
    equipment
    in the area but their frequency was so high and of low power so was ruled out. With 2.4 you don't get that sort of problem (maybe if you flew in front of a TV station transmitting dish or similar) but the whole idea of 2.4 was to alleviate all of the old problems. If you have a very cheap 2.4 set with a low scan rate you may get the odd problem close to a power source, (or standing next to someone with a powerful Futaba or similar) but on the whole, very few problems, (just check how far away they can fly Quads etc using Cloverleaf antennae and relays etc using 2.4) John B
    12 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 34'' Crash Tender
    I donโ€™t remember McGregor offering kits in those days. They may have, but the cost would probably been out of my reach. There were companies who advertised in RCM&E who offered kits to build radio
    equipment
    , often based on articles in the mag. My 27MHz set was scratch built. I worked for a company at the time that had an engineering workshop that I could take advantage of at lunchtime. So the case was folded from aluminium sheet and then covered with red vinyl. The sticks were turned from Perspex. The circuit board was etched in the lab. Sadly I got a better job elsewhere and lost access to the workshop ๐Ÿ˜ 
    1 year ago by Graham93
    Wiki
    Radio Control Wiring
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Wiring Methods Wiring can be a little tricky, especially when there are more functions than just power and steering. To wire correctly you should first check: - What is to be wired up. - What voltages are going to be needed. - if there is any
    equipment
    that is not compatible. Receiver Where possible try to have a separate battery for the receiver and not power it through B.E.C. circuits in speed controllers. There is a simple explanation for this. The speed controller works by switching on and off and different rates. Depending on the rate of switching the motor will speed up or slow down. it is this fluctuating current that is not good for the receiver if its using the B.E.C. *Edit* More modern electronics are not affected so much by this, but if you start to experience problems with reception it could still be something to consider. The receiver should be placed as far away as possible from other electrical
    equipment
    such as motors/servos. Also DO NOT CUT THE AERIAL ON THE RECEIVER. The receiver aerial is a set length and can affect signal quality if made shorter or longer. All motors should have suppression to avoid any interference with the signal. There is a section in the knowledge base for this if you need to learn more. Lighting Lighting
    equipment
    is running at a constant current and can be placed off any battery without it affecting anything else... BUT if it is put onto the same battery as say a drive motor, the lights will dim everytime power is asked from the motor. If LEDs are being used you will have to be careful about the voltage. Three things can be done to ensure the LEDs are getting the right voltage (usually between 3.0 to 3.5v). One. Use a voltage regulator. Two. Put resistors into the circuit. Three. Put the LEDs in series with each other. Each LED is about 3v so two in series would need a total of 6v. Sound/speakers Speakers generate sound using a fluctuating current through the coil. it is recommended that all sound devices are run off a separate battery to avoid interference. Another problem with speakers is the magnetic field. This can play havoc with the signal, especially analogue radio sets, therefore the speaker should be as far away as possible from the receiver and have magnetic protection if there is no choice. Relays/switches A switch is always a good idea so that the boat or anything else can be switched on and off easily, but they should only be used if the current is low going through them. To reduce the amount of problems that could occur it is recommended to do without a switch if possible. A switch for the receiver is fine as it is only low current. For drive motors it is better to have a straight link onto the battery. Fuses Fuses are always a good idea to ensure they blow up before your boat does! Make sure you use the proper car type fuses for high current applications (blade fuses).
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most transmitter/receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the transmitter, receiver, the batteries to go with them and servo's. The style of transmitter is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding
    equipment
    should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Hi Gren, You might be in luck! That's a 27MHz AM TX. https://aucview.aucfan.com/yahoo/r325252598/ Can only find it on web pages in Chinese โ˜น๏ธ But the pics show what it is. This might match the 27Meg RX that you have IF THE CRYSTALS MATCH, i.e. they are both for the same channel frequency. This should be marked on the side of the crystals. But remember; even if it works you may be plagued with interference problems, some caused by the boat's own on-board
    equipment
    , especially sparks from the motors if they are the two wire brushed type. Make sure that they are properly suppressed with capacitors. As in attached pic. The numbers in brackets are the value codes printed on the capacitors. Most model shops will have these in sets, as per the Krick set in the pic. Other interference sources can be CB radios; 27Mhz Citizens Band such as truckers still use. Good luck๐Ÿคž Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC
    equipment
    ; motor, servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA batteries in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    1 year ago by StuartE
    Forum
    Help me please
    "...what would be good is what you need is this speed controller this for the leds ect ..." Every modeller has their own preferred set of materials,
    equipment
    , etc. I tend to go for very cheap kit - other people will prefer more expensive and more reliable items. I'd be surprised if a motor specced at 1-2A would exceed 80A under stall. Are those figures no-load rather than under optimum load? If so, we may be looking at 5-10A under running conditions? That still sounds a lot - I might expect 2-5A running, and fuse at 10-15A. So you might use an MTronics Viper 20 like this: https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/mtroniks-viper-marine-20-plug-n-play-electronic-speed-controller/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-72y5fmV4gIVibPtCh099gtiEAQYAyABEgKaI_D_BwE The drain will depend on the battery capability, of course. I tend to design for 7.2NiMh - that means that it is easy to drop the voltage to 6 or rise it to 12 if I need to. You will need a bit of ballast for that boat - you might find that lead-acid can provide the power needed, and that would also provide the weight! If you want to decide based on data rather than ideas from others. perhaps it would be a good idea to actually measure the drain under running conditions? Do you have a recording wattmeter? If not, just go to ebay and search for 'Watt Meter Power Analyzer'. For about ยฃ8 you get a little blue box that attaches between battery and motor, and records current and maximum power drain... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Monitor-LCD-Watt-Meter-60V-100A-DC-Ammeter-RC-Battery-Power-Amp-Analyzer/362444865559?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3Df08eeb60704a4dd2a85883d23b7b8959%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D362580489901%26itm%3D362444865559&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    General information required
    Hi Jimbob, Welcome aboard ๐Ÿ‘ Sorry to hear about the circumstances though! To your query- We have a For sale / Wanted rubric here on the site. If you click on the Forum button you will see a row of yellow buttons near the top showing the forum categories. You seem to have found this already! So now- Click on Create New Forum Topic- The entry window will open- Click For Sale / Wanted under Categories- Subject perhaps 'Several ships for sale' Then first off I would post a list of the ships with basic info; Name, Type, photo, basic dimensions, location, and asking price. Then if anyone replies showing interest you could follow up, using the ship's name as a Subject title to the post, with details, including of any
    equipment
    fitted or available separately such as associated transmitters, batteries and chargers etc., and see where it goes. Hope this helps, good luck๐Ÿคž All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    C01
    This is a coastal patrol ship that practically designed its self. I had some plastic card and I just wanted to make something, I hade no plans or drawings and this was the end result. This was made using my baking paper tip. I never got around to installing rc
    equipment
    in it as a friend decided that he wanted it as it was. And I never got took any photos of the making of it.
    1 year ago by Martin555
    Wiki
    Radio Control Wiring
    DRAFT; TO BE REVISED SHORTLY (RN) ;-) Wiring Methods Wiring can be a little tricky, especially when there are more functions than just power and steering. To wire correctly you should first check: - What is to be wired up. - What voltages are going to be needed. - if there is any
    equipment
    that is not compatible. Receiver Where possible try to have a separate battery for the receiver and not power it through B.E.C. circuits in speed controllers. There is a simple explanation for this. The speed controller works by switching on and off and different rates. Depending on the rate of switching the motor will speed up or slow down. it is this fluctuating current that is not good for the receiver if its using the B.E.C. *Edit* More modern electronics are not affected so much by this, but if you start to experience problems with reception it could still be something to consider. The receiver should be placed as far away as possible from other electrical
    equipment
    such as motors/servos. Also DO NOT CUT THE AERIAL ON THE RECEIVER. The receiver aerial is a set length and can affect signal quality if made shorter or longer. All motors should have suppression to avoid any interference with the signal. There is a section in the knowledge base for this if you need to learn more. Lighting Lighting
    equipment
    is running at a constant current and can be placed off any battery without it affecting anything else... BUT if it is put onto the same battery as say a drive motor, the lights will dim everytime power is asked from the motor. If LEDs are being used you will have to be careful about the voltage. Three things can be done to ensure the LEDs are getting the right voltage (usually between 3.0 to 3.5v). One. Use a voltage regulator. Two. Put resistors into the circuit. Three. Put the LEDs in series with each other. Each LED is about 3v so two in series would need a total of 6v. Sound/speakers Speakers generate sound using a fluctuating current through the coil. it is recommended that all sound devices are run off a separate battery to avoid interference. Another problem with speakers is the magnetic field. This can play havoc with the signal, especially analogue radio sets, therefore the speaker should be as far away as possible from the receiver and have magnetic protection if there is no choice. Relays/switches A switch is always a good idea so that the boat or anything else can be switched on and off easily, but they should only be used if the current is low going through them. To reduce the amount of problems that could occur it is recommended to do without a switch if possible. A switch for the receiver is fine as it is only low current. For drive motors it is better to have a straight link onto the battery. Fuses Fuses are always a good idea to ensure they blow up before your boat does! Make sure you use the proper car type fuses for high current applications (blade fuses).
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most transmitter/receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the transmitter, receiver, the batteries to go with them and servo's. The style of transmitter is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding
    equipment
    should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    New forum rankings.
    Hi Haig, Greetings to Down Under from Up Over๐Ÿ˜‰ If I like something - I LIKE it! Points be damned. I believe the points system may have been changed to stop folks 'climbing the ladder' with nonsense posts or just 'Liking' everything in sight indiscriminately for example. It may not yet be perfect but I guess that the the idea behind it is to support more the core interests of model boat construction and operation. Agree with you though re photos vs video. ๐Ÿ‘ There is more effort involved in both making and posting a video as opposed to a photo. But when you know how .....๐Ÿ˜‰ But realistically, does anyone really join such a forum just to collect points and attain a fictitious rank? Surely essentially all those who come here, AND STAY here, do so cos we like building and sailing model boats, of all shapes, sizes and types, are happy to share our knowledge and experience, and are grateful for help received when we get stuck or out of our depth ... Glug glug glug glop glop!๐Ÿ˜ฎ That to me is the essence of such a site, which it fulfils admirably (and I have tried several others as well๐Ÿค”). All the rest, ranking etc, is just the icing on the cake - take it or leave it. It's only a bit of fun ๐Ÿ˜ And I thoroughly agree with you about the automatic 'bolding' of words in our post. That should be left to the post author as it is an internationally accepted form of EMPHASIS which is the authors prerogative. Unfortunately the site doesn't allow any kind of formatting in posts โ˜น๏ธ Sure the new site format has a few glitches and teething troubles, what new complex system doesn't?? We'll get them sorted I'm sure. (Half the German armed forces expensive new
    equipment
    is currently grounded / unserviceable or not seaworthy!!๐Ÿค”) More power to Stephen for spending a year doing all this all on his lonesome - with selfless disregard of the coffee costs incurred๐Ÿ˜ฎ Keep on posting Haig, we need guys like you๐Ÿ‘ All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS The bold words appear to be Hyperlinks. Intended to jump to a list of posts where these words/topics also appear. No idea what algorithm is used to select them though. Produces some curious results - such as Glug or Glop for example. Natch --> 'No results found'. IMHO algorithm needs to be changed to restrict links to realistic topics and the words simply displayed in blue and underlined, as is the internet convention for hyperlinks.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich


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