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Yes I think the 10"is the dia of the main pipe ,I seem to recall from my fuzzy memory that they wer called either VS1 or VIS 1 when we
d them years ago
9 months ago by marky
Hi Toby the bollard will be 10"dia (dotted line)the outer line shows it was capped ,these look like
d bollards made from heavy pipe and plate and welded. Just my thinking
9 months ago by marky
RC steam lever
Hi Rick, would you believe it is me yet again, I just thought you might like to check out my Harbour, as I have just put three boats in there, all with steam engines. Plus I was thinking if I where you which I am not but if I was. you will need to buy an oil lubricator for your engine, and Clevedon Steam has a lubricator with a throttle lever control valve attached to it, this would make a lot of sense. Question, can you silver solder as you will need to
some pipe work? Regards Gary.
9 months ago by GaryLC
Hi Rowen, I agree with John 👍
Unless you have your own brass foundry the best we can do is turn the hub on a lathe, pre
the blades (making sure that they are identical form and weights!), cutting / milling slots into the hub and then solder - which is weakpoint Number 1! Then wonder why it runs rough and cavitates cos it's outa balance and uneven pitch😡
I suggest you leave it to the pros like Rabeosch who for about 15 bucks or so will give you a robust cast, balanced and highly polished scale or sports finished article.
Weigh up the hours you will spend fiddlin' about against the price of a decent pro job. Especially if you need two or three the same for one boat.
Only time I fiddle about is when I need small scale props for my plastic magic projects 1/72 down to 1/350! e.g. 4 for a carrier like Ark Royal or Enterprise at 1/350. There ain't nowt that small on the market.
Cheers Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. in fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. it actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of
d steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. in my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. it’s all about having fun, right? if the model looks right, it is right.
1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
Purchased this motor back in 1966, I've broken my con' rod, I need to replace it so any ideas?, I've had one
d from aircraft quality aluminium but I'm not happy with it 😢.
I do still have the original, though in two pieces 😪.
So I'm putting it out there for any ideas on replacing it, whether it be original (not much hope) or a good engineer to re-manufacture👍.
2 years ago by stormin
Hi Martin, thanks for your reply, yes we have a great steam loco engineering club next to the model boat club I attend, so intend taking the old Gannet along one day to let them have a look and hopefully one of the guys will be able to
a new connecting rod.
1 year ago by stormin
deepdivers Rescue tug - Assurance class?
Thanks to Doug for all his help in finding the name of my Tug.
So armed with this info I started to Goggle the name and below is the results.
H.M.S. ATTENTIF W68
French Naval Tug.
Allocated SNO Portland for towing Bombardons.
Built 1938 Forges et Chantiers de la Gironde, Bordeaux.
L114.75’. B27.75’. 672grt. 1000ihp 3cylTE steam engine.
Armament 1x20mm AA, 2xMG.
1938 Delivered to French Navy.
19-6-1940 Arrived Plymouth.
3-7-1940 Seized and Req by RN.
9-1940 Based Devonport.
0-1940 Based at Aberdeen.
1-1941 Based at Milford Haven.
2-1941 – 1942 Based Aberdeen .
1942 – 1944 Based at Harwich.
5-1944 - 1945 Based Portsmouth.
6-1944 Towed 30ton crane 1206 Cardiff to Plymouth.
5-6-1945 Released from Overlord tug pool.
7-8-1945 Returned to French Navy, pennant A671.
1946-7 Renamed Locmine.
6-3-1964 Laid up at Brest.
The Bombardons were large 200 ft (61 m) by 25 ft (7.6 m) cross-shaped floating breakwaters
d in steel that were anchored outside the main breakwaters that consisted of Gooseberries (scuttled ships) and Phoenixes (concrete caissons). 24 bombardon units, attached to one another with hemp ropes, would create a 1 mi (1.6 km) breakwater. During the storms at the end 1944 some Bombardons broke up and sank while others parted their anchors and drifted down onto the harbours, possibly causing more damage
2 years ago by Fred
H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was
d and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping.
Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights.
Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable.
For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed.
To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries.
Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later.
All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.
2 years ago by RHBaker
A little progress...
Slow progress recently, partly due to snow(!) but also because I have had some engineering to catch up on. Anyway, I have cut and fitted but not completed shaping the bow and stern blocks, fitted the prop shaft and
d the rudder assembly. This was silver soldered using a little piece of 3mm silver steel and sheet and channel brass. Yes, the keel looks a bit of a mess in this area but I am going to cover the ply with mahogany veneer to match the planking when I have completed that, and of course it will all be painted below the water-line. I also made a rough cradle to keep the boat steady while working on it - to be replaced with a posh one when everything is done!
2 years ago by Smiffy
Too Powerful Brushless ?
pmdevlin, I also see in your pictures that you have hardly any leading edge on your rudder, do you buy them like this or do you
them yourself. if so then why ??
2 years ago by BOATSHED
Too Powerful Brushless ?
Very nice but I think our friend's prop tube comes through the keelson .The wedge shaped keel extension piece to which the tube is secured so that support would not suit. However a "U" tube or two could be
d and wrapped round tube and secured to keelson with a couple of small screws and a good glue.Ali .copper or brass would do. Brass best to avoid electrolytic corrosion with the brass prop tube. Also brass screws. BTW just looking at shaft is not enough to check if straight. Hold to a known straight edge or rolled on flat surface. This will show up even the slightest curvature by allowing light under the ends when rolling with the fingers in the middle. Or slide a piece of paper (cigarette paper best ) against ends .If it goes under there is a bend in the test piece 👍
2 years ago by onetenor
Prop Shaft Grease
I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent.
Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to
My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing.
Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.
2 years ago by Dave M
Huntsman fittings kit.
Do tread carefully if you intend to use Westbourne as there has been posts on this and other sites regarding their poor service level and lack of advertised stock.
Canabus has a build blog mdlbt.com/31424
Not sure exactly what fittings you require but Reade Models may be able to help as they supported fittings for many of the kits produced alongside the Precedent range.
If you are looking for the window frames then you may need to
from liteply, or if you have a 3D printer source have some
2 years ago by Dave M
Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔
Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place.
Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime.
Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step;
new propshaft and mount the brushless.
In between perhaps something on the PT 109.
Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times.
Cheers Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
THANKS MATE !
2 years ago by Ballast
Really taking shape. Looks great!!
2 years ago by GrahamP74
d and offered up for fixing to gunwales and for'ard rails and then a coat of paint !!! Shame to have to paint all that lovely brass !!!
2 years ago by Ballast
Your FPB is coming along nicely. Mine is still untouched but seeing your progress make me think I should start the refurb.
Looking at the gun and other fittings I do believe the casings could best be
d on a 3D printer if you have some drawings and dimensions.
I will be a Haydock and our stand is very near to Mike's gun stand so hope to see you when you visit.
2 years ago by Dave M
That's a fair comment but you could say the same about buying a pre-moulded hull or a kit. But, take it to its logical conclusion, do you
your own plywood? Cultivate, and harvest your own balsa wood/bass wood/mahogany?
Be a purist if that's what you want but is it right to sneer at others who find their own path to tread?
2 years ago by Delboy
this will be the motor to be used. Honda GP200 4HP 4 stroke gasoline motor. i opted to detach the gas tank so that i can lay it somewhere on the boat. i just modified the fuel line. i also remove the integrated kill switch(red latch) from the motor so that i can lay it somewhere on the boat. i will just find a way to attach a servo into it. maybe some modification on the switch will do the work. hopefully. i also removed the stock muffler, i need to
a new muffler so that it blows on the stern(back) portion of the main hull.
3 years ago by analyst
After a successful first attempt at planking the tow-hook deck I then did the same to the mid deck.
I placed a 5mm border of maple with mitred corners, but I stepped it out around the forward cabin access door so that the completed deck panel can be dropped and slid into place beneath the door threshold.
The planking was placed working out from the centre line to keep the spacing even, and when the CA had fully set the black plasticard ‘caulking’ was trimmed flush with a sharp chisel and the whole surface sanded smooth.
There is a small detail on this deck which is identified on the Vosper drawing as a ‘fuel tank sounding’, a sort of dipstick access point I suppose.
This part is not supplied in the metal fittings kit so and I
d this from a piece of 10mm brass tube with a plasticard insert to replicate the detail.
This was then painted metallic silver and let into the deck after cutting a 10mm diameter hole through the planking.
To cut this hole I used a short piece of 10mm thin wall brass tube with a sharp edge filed on its internal bore so that it acted as a sort of ‘cookie cutter’ and it produced a neat and accurately sized hole in the deck planking.
The ‘step’ formed by the door and frame was painted to match the door and then the complete deck panel sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer for the final finish.
I'm getting the hang of this planking lark so confidence is high as I move on to tackle the far more challenging cockpit deck 🤔
3 years ago by robbob
@figtree7nts - yeah as much as possible i will minimize the weight. i think only the weight of a 3hp motor will be the primary consideration and the rest(electronics) will be minimal.
speaking of electronics, can you share a simple layout for the needed electronics on this one? I'm a total noob and until now I'm still at lost on what specific items to buy aside from the motor. prop and shaft will be
d locally. I already have Rx from the Taranis Tx. All i want for now is for her to run wirelessly for about 100 meters for trials before i consider putting telemetry and cameras.
I'm confused of;
what size of servos should i use?
How many servos?
What size and type of battery?
Do i need an external antenna? if yes, what type?
Hope to have some recommendations from the members. a layout would be much appreciated. thanks in advance
3 years ago by analyst
DAMEN STAN 4207
From the Damen sheer, lines and section drawings developed building plans.
Decided to use a traditional 'plank & frame' construction style for the hull, which should suite both the hard chine design and help minimize weight.
Most readers are familiar with this type of construction, so in future will only describe features introduced to recognize specific hull design details or those added to achieve lightness with a low centre of gravity.
The basic framework was straightforward; decided to build the hull frame and then fit the sheathing (between keel and chine) first. This would create a definite hull form where all the electrical equipment could be trial positioned and installed, but still allow reasonable access. The upper planking (from chine to deck) will be fitted once this is complete.
The Daman section and sheer plans show only a limited number of sections, in the interest of lightness, decided to build the hull framework using only bulkheads corresponding to each section. if the hull proved flimsy these could easily be increased.
Due to the shape of the keel laminated the rear portion using 1/8' ply and wood strips. As the hull has a definite sharper keel section towards the bow, eliminated the wood strips to achieve this.
Used ¼' sq. bass wood strip for the deck level and chine strips and a rudimentary stiffness check of the frame showed a satisfactory result. The limited number of sections is probably assisted by the hull shape which is has a considerable length to beam ratio, with sections transitioning smoothly. Tried to use ¼' balsa strips for the deck strips but found they were too brittle, even when soaked in ammonia. Decided the potential weigh saving was not worth the trouble and reverted to basswood.
All the hull section and keel assembly was
d on a building board with cutouts corresponding to the section positions to locate the bulkheads and ensure squareness.
3 years ago by RHBaker
If you want actual working vents why not
"mushroom" vents from brass tube and sheet?
Full sized examples here
d item its not a difficult build. Brass tube and sheet are available from a LOT of model supply sites.
4 years ago by Haverlock
You should be Ok with the 2.5mm. its not carrying any weight and will be easier to cut to shape and the windows will look more realistic.
My model had the original metal frames and you could
from Litho plate. Not seen anyone selling the part tho.
I have provided others with templates for tyhe windows and will look up the file and let you have a copy. Just off to the Ship Modellers gathering at E Port so in a rush at present. I'll sort out tonight
4 years ago by Dave M
Doing it myself!
I got fed up of waiting for the replacement rudder servo tray so
d one from scrap plastic and arranged the rudder linkage. I've also finished the plank effect on the deck with 0.6 x 3mm beech strip and started to construct the aft cabin.
Note: the 'BIC' temporary tensioning device staightening the main mast!
4 years ago by chrislang
RNLB TYNE CLASS
Have reached a stumbling point with my model. Attempts to
the metal frame that goes under the external; steering position have been unsuccessful. How have others made this item or can it be purchased?
4 years ago by RHBaker
Lifeboat door hinges
I am currently building a Slipway Tamar lifeboat, I have reached the stage to
the access door hinges from photo etched brass, can anybody assist on how to make these very small parts
5 years ago by jfstoker
I've not had much chance lately to get much done, the photo's I've attached with this update show that I've added port holes to the side (and superstructure) I tried to find some pre
d "Navy" port holes but did not have much luck, I had a look at another build blog on a Destroyer and found he had used Eyelets you'd use on shoes! I thought I'd give it a go, I think they look good, some may argue it's not the original but it'll do for me 😊
I've also made a start on the turrets, I need to do a lot of sanding / smoothing before I attached them to the running gear and make sure they are level. Once I get to this point I am going to upload a video as I've not seen any "Simple" design solutions to rotating turrets for others to view, not being overly cleaver with the electronics just yet it may help others??
Last photo's are of the Hull with it's 1st coat of paint, I'm going for a darker Grey (Humbrol Sea Grey No-27) than the recommended light grey. I'll need to rub down with finishing paper and add a few more coats before I'm happy, I'll upload a few more close up when ready.
Good luck with your build's
5 years ago by Pav403
Vosper 1/16th scale fireboat
Electrics now installed and they work! 😊 Next job is the windows. Frames already glued to the acetate so now it's a matter of careful trimming and painting of the edges before fixing in place. Frames provided in the kit for all windows except the back of the forward cabin. I will just have to try and
5 years ago by JeremyBB
Suitable Power Source
OK Mark - thanks for clarifying that. I need then, to source a (flexible?) coupling and
some way of mounting the motor. I Imagine this has been done many times before for this model and there may even be a standard parts motor mounting kit? Neil
5 years ago by impartit
I have at last finished the main boom and goose neck/kicker.
d from 2 mm ply and has taken a long time after trouble with paint. Goose neck and kicker is made from usual source of old water fittings some of which are soldered together, it has come out a bit heavier than I would have liked but will do for a start, it may look better if it was painted but I think that a coat of varnish will be the method.
5 years ago by nasraf
I tried to do a response to your 8 Sept post but it did not work so have a go on this one.
Very Impressed by your detail work, almost makes me start mine again but too far in now.
I like your brass work, is it all yours or have you a supplier, if so I would be grateful if you would give details.
Also interested in your gooseneck joint between mast and main boom. I have made one and kicker from brass scrap but it has turned out a bit chunky. I have not done a yacht before, so am not sure if it can be made with main boom with only horizontal movement. I have at last made a
d boom but have allsorts of problems with the paint I have used.
I still have to decide how to make sails and the method of sail control so would be interested in how to do it.
I have a nice new 2.4 GHz RC kit, so interested in outcome of your recent radio problems.
5 years ago by nasraf
Making a mould to
I have built a tug using standard ply keel frame and deck, then glued extruded foam between the frames keel and deck to complete the shape, after smoothing I have glassfibred directly onto the foam using west system Epoxy resin - which does not destroy the foam. This makes a very solid hull, which is virtually unsinkable. The foam is from packing saved for this purpose. I am now building a second 46 inch tug using same system.
6 years ago by ralphwilmot
Making a mould to
I am wanting to make a hull. The mould will be made out of hI density extruded foam , then cover It In chopped fibre glass. Once the epoxy has set the foam will then pulled out of the glass hull. Has anyone else have any other Ideas.
Have made the hull, now Installing motors, radio gear & deck
7 years ago by NormanR
Victory Industries Vosper RAF Firefloats
Sounds like you are nearly ready to spill the beans on your system.
Weight will always be a problem with this size of boat. The standard props are really far too big and will need a powerful motor to provide the power.
The original uses a reduction unit, possibly 3:1 but would have struggled with the Mighty Midget used.
If brushless is not your thing then there are some modern small and light brushed motors that would work with smaller props and could be powered by AA batteries (2300MaH). 12 v is easily obtained without too great a weight increase.
I am out all weekend displaying at a model show so no sailing this weekend 👎
Never seen a davit on one of the Victory models. Basically its a curved H piece of steel so a bit of platicard would make a reasonable job. There are pics of models on this site showing the davit so you should be able to
Good luck with Mk 1C 😀
6 years ago by Dave M
Making a mould to
Have not tried this method personally but do know others who have had success. I believe you may have yo cover the finished foam shape with some form of protection (parcel tape may work) otherwise your shape will dissolve before the resin sets.
Assuming you only require the one hull this may be th quickest method but I suspect you will need quite a bit of rubbing down to achieve the required finish.
If you are considering multiple copies your former is unlikely to survive the removal from the hull.The traditional way is to make a hull and prepare a mould (usually in two parts) and lay the fiberglass in the mould on top of a gel coat. Takes some time but the end result is repeatable.
Good luck with your project, perhaps you will start a build blog to share your experiences 😀
7 years ago by Dave M
University Project - Hull Fabrication So Far
HI guys, hope you all had a good Christmas and New Year!
Thought I would upload a few photos of the hull I formed over the holidays for my university project for you to see and give tips on etc. If you so wish.
For the project, we are asked to design and build our own RC RUDDERLESS BOAT. It was decided to use foam as the material for the hull as It Is cheap (we are students after all), and also very easy to mold to the desired shape.
A catamaran design was opted for also as we felt we would gain not only more stability, but load bearing and component space on the deck.
The hull took me around 2 days to complete, however this was mainly due to my sometimes unhealthy need for a cuppa.
The hull was
d In 2 sections: top, and bottom (consisting of the two pods). The tools used were: Hacksaw, hacksaw blade, Stanley blade, chisel, file, drill with an M10 drill-bit, and sandpaper/sanding-block.
The two sections are yet to be glued together. An acrylic-based coating Is to be donned, also a coat of paint for added protection against the water.
My one major concern Is water Ingress to the two motor housings via the hole where the shaft will protrude. How can I solve this problem?
Thanks again for all the help!
Boat dimensions are approx as follows - L 350mm; B 225mm; D 120mm.
7 years ago by SandyDola92
I have a 34" Fireboat which is being renovated and I am going to
a mast in brass for mine, the legs of which will go through the cabin roof and be stuck with epoxy, I also do not have access to the inside. The side brackets (which alow the real mast to fold forward?) will again be epoxied in to place to support it. All this might change though when I get to it
7 years ago by smear56
Yes, power by battery. We just submitted a final Product Design Specification (PDS) for our boat and have included the battery price in it: looking to spend up to £15 on batteries.
Now we can start sketching up concepts and doing more detailed calculations.
Our next step will be to design and
the hull, which will be paramount to the projects' success.
The Kortz nozzles seem like a great idea, however after discussion with our adviser, he feels it would defeat the purpose of directional control purely from the props.
We will be controlling it via normal RC control, however we feel if we have time that control via an everyday controller such as a WiI remote would be pretty smart and not too hard to accomplish 😊 !
Thanks for all this help by the way, it's giving us a far clearer insight as to how we should go about the project 😊 !
7 years ago by SandyDola92
Tow strop holder
Not an item for styrene, well not if you wish to make it operable that is. So I made a pattern up in styrene strip, then
d from brass strip for strength. this holds the twin wire tow strop cables up on the bows, untill needed for beach recovery by Tractor winch. the tow cables drop easily on to the 2 hooks and it is then tensioned as it lowers to the deck, where it locks in place to hold the cables secure.
7 years ago by Gregg
34'' fireboat restoration
surrey kev has been back in portsmouth since sunday and has with some assistence been continuing the rebuild of his crash tender , most of the fittings have been
d ourselves including the operable fire monitors , all of the light fittings the mast and tow hook , hopefully over the next few weeks I will have bought some electronic switchers to make everything work from the transmitter !
8 years ago by triumphjon
34'' fireboat restoration
thank you dave , Ive managed to locate some nos moniter nozzles that Im hoping to be able to drill out for some piping to make working units , however the lower portion may have to be
d ? details such as the raised sections on both cabin roofs and the hatches are the next area to receive attention . jon
8 years ago by triumphjon
We have made the fore and aft well (cargo) (c) decks and planked and added cabin details. Fore and Poop decks have been made and planked and fixing arranged. We intend both to be movable to assist with transport. The fore and aft Bridge (B) deck has been made and cabins fitted, planking to be done. Both the (A) and Boat decks have been cut and await final shaping and joining as the length was greater than our sheet of plywood. Boat, (A) and (B) decks will be
d as one unit, which will lift off the hull, giving easy access to allow installation of ballast. The rear (C) deck is hollow giving good access to the motors and shafts which will help with pond side maintenance. We hope to complete the deck and cabin details shortly. Once complete we will finish the hull plating, install the motors and rudder servo, at which time we can ballast the hulls prior to sea trials. Final fitting out will take some time depending on the detail we decide to show. I have ordered 1000 each of 3mm and 5mm LEDS from China together with some flat warm white LEDS for the walkways.
The models are beginning to resemble the finished article and our work will benefit from this as each part can be seen in its correct location.
Bill and Dave
8 years ago by Dave M
Epoxy and glass cloth applied
Finally the hulls were ready for application of glass cloth and epoxy resin. Applied with a large spreader to Impregnate the cloth into the balsa hull. After the initial coat the hulls were rubbed down with fine wet and dry to remove surface blemishes. A coat of resin coloured black and thickened with a fine powder produced a very hard finish. The initial hull needed quite a bit of sanding and we used a large body repair sander to remove any blemishes, then rubbed flat with wet and dry and final coat applied again with the spreader. So far only one forward section is to this stage, but all hulls have the cloth and epoxy applied. Hopefully our technique Improved from the initial hull and less sanding will be required. The outer prop shafts have been fitted to the two rear hulls and the three remaining halves will be treated with coloured epoxy and filler. Still undecided about the plating.
The motors have been aligned with the prop shafts and all the couplings are made. Silicon tube will provide the flexible coupling. We are using 777 motors for the outer props and an open frame motor for the central prop all from Model Motors Direct. The motor mounts will be
d ready for installation.
d and once fitted we will be ready to ballast and take to the lake for initial sea trials to test the setup. One picture shows a scale man adjacent to the propellor!
Dave and Bill
8 years ago by Dave M
1/16th scale Fire Monitors
I'll perhaps try again . I liked the recent video of your 34" fireboat, most Impressive! and the monitors on that look good, are they self
d or available from somewher.
9 years ago by chrislang
Arun 52'' Scale Lifeboat
Still reworking the hull to correct the deck levels. Also worked on the deck surround by filling with P38 and sanding to shape. The original edging was about 4mm oversize. Rubber edging will finish the job. I now need to wet and dry the deck and fill minor Imperfections. Also the steps need rasing to meet the new deck level.
Have started on the mast detail. Drew a plan to size from the RNLI plans and working from actual photos of the real boat
d the mountings. I am presently working on the VHF aerial at the very top. I need to find some way to join the mast array, basically two H aerials at 90deg to each other. Soldering not quite right so am working on plastic (delrin) to make the joins. I Intend to make the whole mast/aerial array detachable from the open cockpit floor as this will make carrying so much easier. The picture shows the mast so far, I have not fixed the upper mast so alignment Is out.
10 years ago by Dave M
HI Dave, you are dead right with the total number of stanchions but there are 6 on one side and 7 (13 not 16 I'm an idiot)on the other that are two ball stanchions as speedline sells and not A frames or part of the rear railings which are
d. I think the etched sheet has enough for one boat. I don't have any plans just enlarged pictures that I measure from as the rnlI plans vary in accuracy but are a lot better on the more modern boats where they are cad designed. do you have plans for 52-08 or a different model as they are all so different! I have sent you some pics waterlines and the top of the white is level with the bottom of the spray rails, I was only going on the rear picture you uploaded as to it's final position? I had a look today in b&q I like your idea of the kick boards and they also had some brass angle that I might use for the l shape brackets? Not sure why you cant get access to the build on 24/7it should unrestrict when you log in? you can always pm the admin they sort it pretty quickly! if you pm me your email address I can send you a file with the pics of 52-08 and the others I have. Greg
10 years ago by chavtasticbrian
Figures for Jaws boat Orca
HI all, I have tried to source figures for my Orca for over a year now, without success. I have tried American forums, and other popular forums, even the forum dedicated to Jaws and the Orca. Its a very realistic model, so the figures need to look good. I am willing to pay for a commission build, or can
something myself If the figures are "nearly" right. Any help appreciated. Scalewise, I am not sure, but the cabin door Is 3 Inches, so advice on scale appreciated, many thanks