Forum

SEA COMANDER RE-FURB.

Just started this re-furb 😭, I forgot about this boat, it was built in 1966 by my dad👍. Been in my sisters loft since 1975 and was only found a few weeks ago when she moved house. so hope to add to my harbour as soon as its seaworthy.👍 Biggest problem is the amount of fiberglass on the outside of the joints, old heavy duty stuff but seems to be coming away okay, will be coating hull in Ezicote and fine glass cloth. At least it makes up for the loss of dads old Sea Queen.😊

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Jersey City Tug

Hi Peter, Nah, It was my idea to paint her another color! I just didn't like the fire engine red. That she's painted in! The Yellow I used I mixed. As it was a shade of yellow from a real Tug I worked on some 35 years ago! I can't wait to see how yours come out. Will you be painting her red? Peter, Where the prop shaft comes out. Reinforce that area by adding 1/8" plastic to the area! Then reinforce with the tape!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Painting over epoxy

On fibreglass you could use an etching primer which is a modified alkyd primer that produces a sound base coat on wood, steel, fiberglass, aluminum surfaces. but you should use an ordinary primer before the top coat. Halfords do a spray etch primer.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

San Pedro by Harbor Models!

Oh, I forgot to mention. This will be my first attempt. At a model! So, I will be learning and building. At the same time! There will be a lot of questions. Asked of the MBW members....!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Glassfibre cloth & epoxy resin

I have also coated my 46" RAF Crash Tender with matting and used West Systems two part epoxy. i coated the entire hull in one piece apart from the transom. I left it for two days to harden off. it worked very well. I am fitting the rubbing strakes over the top of the fiberglass using modelling pins and 5 minute epoxy.

5 years ago by ChrisR

Forum

Wood planking onto a fiberglass hull

anything is possible however the level of difficulty and skill required will be dependant on the shape of the hull, pictures would be helpful (if not essential to give any comment as to the practicality of such a venture)

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Wood planking onto a fiberglass hull

Hi chaps, a very happy new year to you all. I have been given a fiberglass hulled boat it has a nice wood deck and cabin. My question is. Is it or can the hull be planked to suit the deck planking. Jim Dogged.

5 years ago by jimdogge

Media

Electric Barbarella

Ahoy Maties! it's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. it measures 24 X 8.5 inches. it is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁

5 years ago by Krampus

Response

Excelsior

Hello, Just spotted your boat, I love the gaff-rigged working craft. Built one, a Falmouth fishing boat, and I plan to do more. Your boat is very impressive, nice quality workmanship and attention to detail. If you don't mind I am curious about a couple of things. is it plank on plank? Did you fiberglass over the hull or just paint. What kind of wood do you use for planking. I to, work from old drawings plans with lines and offsets. Great work! Regards, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Directory

(Racing Boat) Rough Rider

40" fiberglass Prather hull (1980s). Still have this hull, future twin electric fit out . (Motor: O/S 45FSR then O\S 45RSR) (5/10)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Directory

(Racing Boat) Tunnell

Own design Tunnel Hull built with marine ply mid 80s. Canopy was own fiberglass moulding. K+B 45 o/b (Motor: K+B 45 o/b) (5/10)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Directory

(Racing Boat) Turtle

Own design deep V racing boat built in the early 70s Fiberglass over balsa. (Motor: O/S 40 max) (5/10)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Directory

(Tug Boat) Titan

Built this in the 80s. Carved from a block of foam and fiberglassed (hull and deck). Wheelhouse was ply, everything scratch built to own design. Had 540 motor with a set of car points for on /off. had lights that could be switched on by deck switch. Radio was Futaba 'brown box' on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (ESC: none) (5/10)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Brixham trawler IBEX

Hi again, To remind you - I'm about to start a build of Cariad - about a meter long fiberglass hull made by Chris Wynn-Brown. Selecting the auxiliary motor I'm looking at a m500 but any thoughts about the prop used. Thinking 2 blade fairly small, 25mm. Not needed for speed, just to get to shore if the wind dies. And originally auxiliary motors/props would have been small. Does this sound right? Sam

5 years ago by sam

Directory

(Yacht) Bella

A very frustrating boat to build. Had to reinforce the keel with a sandwitch of fiberglass, the materials do not look sturdy enough but looks good once finished. (8/10)

6 years ago by vosper

Forum

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat

Can anyone help me find Information on this S.H.Grainger Formula 1 powerboat ? I pick up this baby and have no clue If It's worth fixing up. Grainger's site Is still up but not functional. LOA Is 48". Appears to be a light fiberglass hull & deck. Many of the missing parts are In the engine compartment. Any help or Interest would be truly appreciated. Thanks!

10 years ago by headquarters

Blog

Deans Robert E. Perry Libertyship

Started building Deans Marine Libertyship Robert E. Perry finished Lenth 54 1/2” beam 7 1/2” weight 35 lbs. Power is Deans motor Falcon 3671 6 volt 1500rpm 3.19mm shaft and prop 147-18 brass propeller 50-L-4bl-M4. Kit is very nicely done all fittings and hardware are included with the kit. The hull is detailed and I have lined the inside of the hull with 2 x 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin to give it more rigidity. I have installed the motor and prop shaft along with the rudder which I replaced since the kit supplied rudder was cast resin and only had a 3/32 dia shaft, I’m sure it would work fine but felt better with something a little more substantial. Added 5 lbs of ballast I used shot and installed sub floor in hull. Equipment installation and deck fitting, added 1/8” plywood as deck and styrene on top.

6 years ago by Mikep

Media

Dumas USS Crockett

Asheville Class gun boat model is 51” long weighs 22 lbs. hull covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. All plywood and balsa construction finished with fiberglass resin and Model Master paints. Working radar mast, turrets, desiel sound, whopper sound, general quarters sound, sierene. Power is MACK Drives 12 volt system 2 x 2 6volt 3000 nimh each drive. Very fast in the water.

6 years ago by Mikep

Directory

(Yacht) Adele

Model is from Dumas kit hull covered with 2 layers or 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. Deck mahogany covered with 3/4 oz. cloth and resin, painted with klass Coat epoxy paints. Running lights and cabin light. Built with removable interchangeable bridge windscreen or windscreen with roof. (Motor: MACK 5045) (ESC: MACK 35) (8/10)

6 years ago by Mikep

Response

Fascis Board and Molding!

The engine room floor is in place. using Resin it's not going any where! It's ok I'll make do! I believe that Dumas used the motor mount floor design from their fiberglass hull. So it fits very high in the plastic hull design! No worries it will work! it better!!!!!!😡😊

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Krampus Yachts

Hello Doug! Actually, not in Juyilanga but in Fishfull Thinking. I took a line here and there from our plan for the superstructure. I utilized ABS plastic instead of wood. No need to mess with fiberglassing and no cracking on the Alpine cold waters. Notice that I used the same type of hull on these two boats. Happens that Fishfull Thinking was originally another boat I had, but not happy with the superstructure, I rebuilt the whole thing but kept its fiberglass hull almost intact. Both hulls were home made by a guy in California. 😁

6 years ago by Krampus

Directory

(Pleasure Craft) Juyilanga

Inspired in now defunct American manufacturer Uniflite, this boat is based upon 1970s-early 80s 28-footer model "Salty Dog" and is built on approximately 1:16 scale. Fiberglass deep-vee hull made in the U.S.A. Superstructure made with 2mm ABS plastic sheets. Equipped with 9v lights system. Completion time: nearly 5 months. (Motor: 500 series Johnson 69215) (ESC: Mtroniks Viper Marine 40) (9/10)

6 years ago by Krampus

Blog

Rubrails in place!

The rubrails are know in place! 1/8" square plastic rods are glued. on to the rubrail padding. On the fiberglass hull this was molded on the hull! The hull becomes very rigged. After you put the rubrail padding. Then put the rubrail on. Makes the hull quite sound!👍

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

False Keel in place!

After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high. Took all day long! grind here, sand there! False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps! Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull! Note: Make sure to mix the Bondo (p38) correctly!👍 I find if it's not mixed correctly. it will crack after a while!😱😲😤

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Trim the Keel!

Unlike the fiberglass hull. that use to come with the Brooklyn. The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull! After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull! This will then become the keel! Be careful not to go into the hull. While your trimming the hull! Note: Try to be as neat as possible! Cutting the flange down to the keel! Make sure the keel is flush against the keel! Then after that glue the 3/8" plastic to the keel! Be neat so you don't have to use. That much Bondo (P38)! Also while putting the Bondo (P38). Be neat with too!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Resin on the Seam!

Well now that my prop stuff arrived. I fent like working on the seam. That goes far and aft in the hull! Had to place a 1" wide fiberglass ribbon. Along the middle of the hull! Reinforcing the hulls inner keel!👍 Note: Make sure to put the Fiberglass ribbon! It helps to strengthen the keel! Also if while grinding down the flange to the keel. If you go too far into the flange. You'll hit the fiberglass ribbon! If you see the ribbon STOP!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Inside of the Hull and the Flange

OK, the inside of the hull is sanded! Next is Polyester resin about one pint. and a 1" brush is needed for this step! In the kit there is a 1" x 40ish" of fiberglass tape. Use this to reinforce the seam. After that comes the Flange that goes around the hull. You must grind down all of the flange that run far and aft. Be very neat don't gouge or nic the keel! The next step is to put the false Keel. Remember be neat working around the Keel.... Note: After you have glued the flanges together. And cut down the flange to the keel. You should sand down the keel. So that it's nice and flush! Take the 3/8" plastic used to make up the keel. And make sure it's nice and flush against the keel it's self!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

What is this material?

The typical application would be shaping the model in polyurethane foam and then cover it with several layers of polyester resin (the most common resin used with fiberglass to build hulls). Also surf boards used to be "shaped" by hand and layered as I mentioned. So for bonding, any polyester resin, expoxi like glues (two components).

6 years ago by Sashaloki

Directory

(Other) CG-40564

DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HiSTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53 (Motor: 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V) (ESC: HOBBYWING) (9/10)

7 years ago by circle43nautical

Media

Juntilla

So, here's my current project in the works. I got a nice 25-inches Deep-Vee fiberglass hull a while ago and now (finally) have a concept for it. Almost by accident I came across a plan for an American bass boat which in turn reminded me of a boat that caught my attention when I was a kid while reading a boating magazine. The boat is a 28-footer from a now defunct firm named Uniflite. it was a small deep-sea sports fisherman called "Salty Dog". Uniflite was very well known within the American boating circles during the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Uniflite created and supplied PBR river patrol craft to the US Navy between 1965 and 1972 for rivers in Vietnam using an already existing pleasure boat hull and adapting jet nozzles for propulsion. So, I just created a prototype template of the cabin so more to follow 😎.

7 years ago by Krampus

Place

2017 Regatta Report

More information-I thought a pdf file was pretty much universal in the computer world, but I have been wrong before! I could open it by just clicking on the icon. Such is life. The model ship that some asked about is the USS ANTIGONE, a 1919 circa troop transport. The builders grandfather served on her 1918-1919. She was originally SS Neckar built for North German Lloyd from her 1900 launch until seized by the U.S. in 1917. After her war service she was SS Potomac for United States Lines. The model has 2 main drive motors a smoking stack, navigation & deck lights. Fiberglass hull.

7 years ago by Phrogphlyer

Forum

Sea Queen refurbishment

Hi Doug and Chris, Well good question ? So I rang the local moulders to see what they had supplied me, as no label on the jar. it is styrene, and I was told to add 10 parts resin to 1 part styrene. And add Hardner/activator as normal before use or spray activator over the coated area, that is the way I did it, and it works. I think it took about 1 hour to be touch dry, but I left overnight before recoating. Apparently this mix is sprayable using a high pressure low volume spraygun. ONLY USE ACETONE TO REMOVE RESINS AND CLEAN TOOLS AND BRUSHES, DO NOT THIN WITH ACETONE. Best of luck Colin.

7 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Painting Wood and styrene

I use basic enamel for plastics, fiberglass, metal, and wood. Typically Rustoleum, or a store brand like Ace Hardware, etc. If you're gonna clear-coat, check it on a test piece first. Rusoleum changed something a while back and their clear coat sometimes reacts with even their own paints.

7 years ago by Jerry Todd

Media

Statia Relaint

First and foremost I would like to thank everyone that answered my question about fiberglassing. Your help guided me through the process and I believe that it came out very good, but still needs more work to smooth out the resin and of course I will post more progress pictures later on. The name of the tug is “STATIA RELAINT”. This is one of a fleet of four vessels built by Samakona Yards in Spain. I chose this one because of the stealth lines that has throughout the structure or just because I love how it looks. I am an artist (painter), and we fall in love with colors and shapes, so maybe thats another reason why Im building this particular one. I was lucky to find the plans and enlarge them to 33” approximately 1/32 scale. This will be my FIRST scratch built even dough I have built others from kits, but never like the experts I see in this forum. I will be open for questions, suggestions and criticism. Thank You Julian From Sunny Miami. 😎

7 years ago by chugalone100

Forum

Fiberglassing

As I recall from my material science studies, a resin coat on its own will strengthen a thin wood panel but it is prone to cracking. Once it has cracked to a certain extent, any strength it has imparted will have evaporated and all you are left with is extra weight. Glass fibres added to the resin act to prevent cracks propagating through the material and add to its toughness. So resin adds strength, glass fibre adds toughness.

7 years ago by Delboy

Directory

(Tug Boat) Lady Elsie

Not sure if it was from a kit or not it has a fiberglass hull. (9/10)

7 years ago by robtroi

Response

work on solent lifeboat

Hi Dave nails/pins or brass i think? I dont think they will rust be cuz i fiberglass over them I but 2 layers of fiberglass on the solent Hull . cliff

7 years ago by Mataroa

Blog

work on solent lifeboat

Heres more pic of solent after i strip the paint the hull it needit some work on the hull and then i fiberglass the hull to strengthen

7 years ago by Mataroa

Forum

Fiberglassing

Thanks for that tip. I've discovered that Deluxe Materials products are now available on this side of the pond, so I'll have to give it a try. Roy

7 years ago by Trillium

Forum

Fiberglassing

Having now completed fibreglassing a hull using the method shown in the video mentioned earlier, I can say that this has been, by far, the most satisfactory fibreglassing I have attempted. A smooth hard finish with no bubbles, no ripples, and no sanding. So for anyone who has been struggling using the technique of undiluted resin and credit card spreaders, I can thoroughly recommend the video'd method. Roy

7 years ago by Trillium

Directory

(Naval Ship) DEFIANCE

This an Asheville class gunboat. Hull is fiberglass and was purchased. Everything else is scratch built. Operating features include radar, lights, smoke, rotating forward turrent and anchor (Motor: Mabuchi (surplus)) (10/10)

7 years ago by Commodore-H

Forum

Fiberglassing

Resin alone gelcoat alone and tissue alone or a mixture of any of the above has no strength. However resin used with a matting or woven roven give the strength

7 years ago by none

Forum

Fiberglassing

I have read on this forum and others that fibreglass has no strength and am puzzled by these comments. Fibreglass is commonly used for building the hulls of full-size boats, including lifeboats, which implies that it has considerable strength. Admittedly, their hull walls are much thicker than on a model boat, but the strength is there. I have seen a fellow model boater take a hull made of balsa, which had been coated with fibreglass and bang it on the edge of a table, with no damage. As we all know, you can poke a finger through untreated balsa. Finally, some data is provided on wikipedia that fibreglass impregnated with polyester resin has a tensile strength of 8000 pounds per square inch. So some clarification of the 'no strength' comments would be appreciated. Roy

7 years ago by Trillium

Forum

Fiberglassing

Some can do fibreglassing as easily as shelling peas. I have fibreglassed 3 models so far and have yet to master the technique. I've spent far too much time sanding the results to make them smooth. For my next project I plan to follow the guidance shown here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk. He talks about 'denatured alchohol' which, in the rest of the English-speaking world is referred to as methylated spirits.

7 years ago by Trillium

Forum

Fiberglassing

Resin and Glass fiber Tissue. The tissue will just hold the resin and give a good seal. Wet the area with resin first..... then lay over the tissue. The tissue does have a certain amount of stretch to it. Easy to join just tear the edges and dab on with resin using . soft brush. Very soft stippling required. The grp Tissue has NO strength to it as is NOT structural just used to get a smoother Finish when Laminating Grp Not Easy to apply but easy to sand off if you make an error.

7 years ago by none

Blog

Build Update

Hello all, Hope you are well? it's taken a while to get to where I am but I can start to see some real progress. I've managed to get the main superstructure complete, they are at a stage where they could be connected to the deck if it was ready. The Hull is now covered in a layer of Balsa, it does now need a lot of rubbing down so I can then look at applying a layer of fiberglass. I've not ordered this yet but I have seen it advertised at Cornwall Model Boats. if anyone has any suggestions on how to fiberglass I'm happy to hear any advise as this will be my 1st time. Good luck with your builds Regards Dave

7 years ago by Pav403

Forum

S H Grainger Cigarette For Sale

CIGARETTE BOAT MODEL 48”x12” This cool model was built by S.H.Grainger & Co., Marine Models Division, Walsall, England. Originally designed as a display model of the famous Cigarette racing boat, this would make a great conversion project to either gas or electric. The hull and top deck are in good shape (a few mounting holes but no cracks) Many of the decorative parts in a bag. This will certainly take some TLC, but the basic structure is of laminated fiberglass and well built. Unfortunately I'm in Miami, Florida. Asking $75 plus shipping from USA. Any suggestion on where to post this would be appreciated.

7 years ago by headquarters

Forum

water proofing

Hi Colin The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used Cascamite glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😡. The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire. If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles. If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress. When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages. We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with Fiberglass cloth and poly layup resin. We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. if you send me a private message with your email address I will share. its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want. Have fun Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Blog

Progress on Build

Hello all, I've made a start on the Superstructure, they are basic ply with blocking to support. I've split the sections into 3 as I want to have the middle superstructure secured to the decking but have the forward and rear sections removable to allow access to the motors etc. I've also made a start on the planking for the hull, this is balsa which I will look to cover in once it is ready. slow progress and I'll update more when I can. Good luck with your builds. Dave

7 years ago by Pav403

Response

Sanding of the Barge

Good Morning Mark, Thanks for the suggestion, I'm going to call one of the model boat stores near me about four towns away. I'm going to see if they have what you are talking about. I really can't afford the resin smell in my place as it's an Apartment. But on the other hand, I want to finish off my Box Barge in the right way. I'm going to post my work as I progress, I've only worked once before with Resin and fiberglass cloth. it was a small strip of fiberglass 1"x6" not big at all! I will do as you say and work in layers, Let's give it a try shall we! Oh, should I sand between layers? Ed

7 years ago by figtree7nts