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    Media
    Electric Barbarella
    Ahoy Maties! it's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. it measures 24 X 8.5 inches. it is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I
    fiberglass
    ed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁
    10 months ago by Krampus
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Titan
    Built this in the 80s. Carved from a block of foam and
    fiberglass
    ed (hull and deck). Wheelhouse was ply, everything scratch built to own design. Had 540 motor with a set of car points for on /off. had lights that could be switched on by deck switch. Radio was Futaba 'brown box' on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (ESC: none) (5/10)
    11 months ago by jbkiwi
    Directory
    (Yacht) Bella
    A very frustrating boat to build. Had to reinforce the keel with a sandwitch of
    fiberglass
    , the materials do not look sturdy enough but looks good once finished. (8/10)
    1 year ago by vosper
    Forum
    S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat
    Can anyone help me find Information on this S.H.Grainger Formula 1 powerboat ? I pick up this baby and have no clue If It's worth fixing up. Grainger's site Is still up but not functional. LOA Is 48". Appears to be a light
    fiberglass
    hull & deck. Many of the missing parts are In the engine compartment. Any help or Interest would be truly appreciated. Thanks!
    5 years ago by headquarters
    Directory
    (Other) CG-40564
    DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HiSTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ
    fiberglass
    . I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53 (Motor: 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V) (ESC: HOBBYWING) (9/10)
    2 years ago by circle43nautical
    Forum
    Painting Wood and styrene
    I use basic enamel for plastics,
    fiberglass
    , metal, and wood. Typically Rustoleum, or a store brand like Ace Hardware, etc. If you're gonna clear-coat, check it on a test piece first. Rusoleum changed something a while back and their clear coat sometimes reacts with even their own paints.
    2 years ago by Jerry Todd
    Media
    Statia Relaint
    First and foremost I would like to thank everyone that answered my question about
    fiberglass
    ing. Your help guided me through the process and I believe that it came out very good, but still needs more work to smooth out the resin and of course I will post more progress pictures later on. The name of the tug is β€œSTATIA RELAINT”. This is one of a fleet of four vessels built by Samakona Yards in Spain. I chose this one because of the stealth lines that has throughout the structure or just because I love how it looks. I am an artist (painter), and we fall in love with colors and shapes, so maybe thats another reason why Im building this particular one. I was lucky to find the plans and enlarge them to 33” approximately 1/32 scale. This will be my FIRST scratch built even dough I have built others from kits, but never like the experts I see in this forum. I will be open for questions, suggestions and criticism. Thank You Julian From Sunny Miami. 😎
    2 years ago by chugalone100
    Forum
    fiberglass
    ing
    Thanks for that tip. I've discovered that Deluxe Materials products are now available on this side of the pond, so I'll have to give it a try. Roy
    3 years ago by Trillium
    Forum
    fiberglass
    ing
    Having now completed fibreglassing a hull using the method shown in the video mentioned earlier, I can say that this has been, by far, the most satisfactory fibreglassing I have attempted. A smooth hard finish with no bubbles, no ripples, and no sanding. So for anyone who has been struggling using the technique of undiluted resin and credit card spreaders, I can thoroughly recommend the video'd method. Roy
    3 years ago by Trillium
    Forum
    fiberglass
    ing
    Resin alone gelcoat alone and tissue alone or a mixture of any of the above has no strength. However resin used with a matting or woven roven give the strength
    3 years ago by none
    Forum
    fiberglass
    ing
    Some can do fibreglassing as easily as shelling peas. I have fibreglassed 3 models so far and have yet to master the technique. I've spent far too much time sanding the results to make them smooth. For my next project I plan to follow the guidance shown here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk. He talks about 'denatured alchohol' which, in the rest of the English-speaking world is referred to as methylated spirits.
    3 years ago by Trillium
    Forum
    S H Grainger Cigarette For Sale
    CIGARETTE BOAT MODEL 48”x12” This cool model was built by S.H.Grainger & Co., Marine Models Division, Walsall, England. Originally designed as a display model of the famous Cigarette racing boat, this would make a great conversion project to either gas or electric. The hull and top deck are in good shape (a few mounting holes but no cracks) Many of the decorative parts in a bag. This will certainly take some TLC, but the basic structure is of laminated
    fiberglass
    and well built. Unfortunately I'm in Miami, Florida. Asking $75 plus shipping from USA. Any suggestion on where to post this would be appreciated.
    3 years ago by headquarters
    Forum
    water proofing
    Hi Colin The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used Cascamite glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😑. The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire. If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles. If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress. When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages. We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with
    fiberglass
    cloth and poly layup resin. We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. if you send me a private message with your email address I will share. its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want. Have fun Dave
    3 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Sanding of the Barge
    Good Morning Mark, Thanks for the suggestion, I'm going to call one of the model boat stores near me about four towns away. I'm going to see if they have what you are talking about. I really can't afford the resin smell in my place as it's an Apartment. But on the other hand, I want to finish off my Box Barge in the right way. I'm going to post my work as I progress, I've only worked once before with Resin and
    fiberglass
    cloth. it was a small strip of
    fiberglass
    1"x6" not big at all! I will do as you say and work in layers, Let's give it a try shall we! Oh, should I sand between layers? Ed
    3 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Submarine wanted
    Hi, I am selling epoxy
    fiberglass
    hulls for some subs. Right now, I am finishing work on mold for German Type 214 sub, lenght 135 cm if interested, mail me on peterzak37@gmail.com. I am producing a lot of ship hulls.
    3 years ago by Hansen
    Response
    Fitting the side skins.
    I have 3 boats that way and they turned quite good. They are definitely strong. I have
    fiberglass
    a 4 real boats. The product can be messy but definitely worth the work and time.
    3 years ago by don6398
    Response
    Fitting the side skins.
    You made a hard job look easy. Do you cover the boat with
    fiberglass
    cloth and resin
    3 years ago by don6398
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Fishfull Thinking
    Inspired on 1970s Chris Craft 30 Sport Fisherman and Bertram 28 and 33 Convertibles.
    fiberglass
    deep-vee hull made in the U.S.A. Approx. 1/20 scale. Real boat could be nearly 33 X 12.8 feet at a 1:16 scale. Equipped with 9v lights system. Completion time: nearly 2 months. (Motor: High Performance 2845) (ESC: Mtroniks G2 30A) (9/10)
    3 years ago by Krampus
    Blog
    Naval Pinnace (or Royal Navy steam picket boat)
    Finally completed after 35 years, must be a record! Boiler clad in balsa insulation and then mahogany strips. Four channel radio, throttle, steering, reverser and gas isolation valve - in case the prop gets stuck on something out on the water. Hotchkiss 3 pounder made by 3D printing and forward cabin made in
    fiberglass
    on a 3D printed mould. All superstructure held down by magnets. Manual gas shut off valve under the gun. Funnel is rolled brass and hatches scratch built from brass sheet. Very nice looking boat and it's a shame that the 'innards' aren't visible when its working.
    3 years ago by Lauriem
    Response
    Tugboat Serenity
    Hi Wolffoot, Yes it the plastic hull which I think is ok kind of! Thanks I love my tugboat I renamed it after my grand daughter Serenity! I actually like the performance of the boat at 12Volts as apposed to 6Volts! one question can you take a picture of your tugboat so I can see her? kind of just to compare notes if you will! Come to think of it I wish I would have been able to get the
    fiberglass
    hull instead of the plastic. oh by the way mine is extremely heavy also! I just don't know how much it weighs! Ed
    3 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Tugboat Serenity
    I have a Jersey City that I have been running for about 5 years .I totally love the way it runs.It is my favorite boat. I use a 12 volt system ,with a Mtronic 20 amp ESC & a 2.4 gig Rx & Receiver . I am a member of a club in Portland Oregon USA . I have a
    fiberglass
    hull ,that makes it heavier than the one that you most likely have. I run mine with lots of weigh ,....the tires are touching the water as it sails.It looks so real on the water and always has people taking pics of it . I would`t change a thing about your boat being too fast...Just run it at a slower scale speed . Being a member of a club means that sometimes I have to get out of the way of much larger boats really quick at times to avoid being rammed . Sometimes we have 30-40 boats on the water at a time ! Have fun with your boat.
    3 years ago by wolffoot
    Forum
    new steamer
    Thought I would show off my recently finished project,Made everything except steam gauge deck fittings and
    fiberglass
    hull which was donated by a good friend. Engine made from bar stock and boiler silver soldered copper tube which has been tested to 100psi! Roger
    3 years ago by shavings
    Directory
    (Other) Edna May 2
    Home designed and built from scratch except for
    fiberglass
    hull (Motor: Home made) (ESC: n/a) (5/10)
    3 years ago by shavings
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Gumboot Cloggeroo
    Midwest Kit Lobster fishing boat I used Bass wood for the Hull as kit came with Balsa wood that would need
    fiberglass
    ing I used Finishing epoxy on the Hull to water proof her (9/10)
    3 years ago by GARTH
    Blog
    Trawler D.728
    I
    fiberglass
    it in and then fit the moter as you can how it looks from the out side of the hull .I have done all this work myself with no help from any one
    4 years ago by Mataroa
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Legal Limit
    Original design "Express Cruiser" type boat. Old home-made
    fiberglass
    hull built in UK in the 1970s and rescued from previous owner's garage. Model built during April-July 2015. Approx. 1/20 scale. Real life boat could be a 32-footer (9.75m) yacht. 3mm 9v LED navigation lights system. (Motor: Biao123 A2122 ) (ESC: Mtroniks G2 3A Hyper BEC 6-12V ) (8/10)
    4 years ago by Krampus
    Forum
    wood fillers
    Hey Mates, Based on your replies, it looks like I need to raid my auto-body supply cabinet. One of my other passions is restoring classic cars from the ground up. I'm pretty well versed in body fillers, not so much
    fiberglass
    techniques, as I prefer to MIG weld steel panels. So, I'll use my 3M glazing polyurethane resin. it's a for very thin filling applications and is easily sanded and accept all types of primers and sealers. As to the
    fiberglass
    , I'm going to look at some of the heated treated thin film wraps body guys use to color panels in lieu of painting them. I'll keep you posted when I get to that part of the project. Thanks for your input, all great replies. Happy Trails......
    5 years ago by RedRider
    Forum
    Too many questions
    Hello folks. I have a 15 year old, 44.5 Inch
    fiberglass
    bare tugboat hull, and marabouchI 4540 brush motor that has a very nice enclosed 2.5/1 reduction gear and 3 3/4" four blade propeller. I have machined a Kort nozzle from rotocast bronze. I plan to use lots and lots of batteries as I need ballast anyways, and want a good long run time. The tug will be for play, but will also be used to go out and push In logs to the shore, where have a crane that I can then lift them up for cutting Into firewood. (Salt water) So I wonder If I should swap this motor for a brushless? I would like to use a very large motor and not run It as hard, so the model Is powerfull enough for pushing 1000 lb logs around. Also just not all that Interested In changing brushes and overheating problems. Also would like as low a speed shaft speed as Is reasonable. So buy a very large motor and feed It lower volts? Get lower shaft speeds too? Is this 50 watt 4540 plenty of motor, that will last quite a long time and I should not change anything? Batteries,.... I don't want to have to be a battery expert, leave them In the correct state of charge, or have a masters degree In battery charging. Need weight anyways, so what battery should I be using? Speed controller? Need a special one for brushless, and I don't have any gear yet so I would like to get what will work best, even If that means sticking with the brush motor. Cost Is less an Issue. Thanks for any help you might have. Steve
    5 years ago by PikaSteve
    Blog
    Jervis Titan Tug model with a job
    Hello all. This is a scratch built boat from a
    fiberglass
    bare hull that I purchased. The purpose of this build is to give me a toy to play with at my cabin at Langdale BC. This is on the ocean and many log tows go past here so there is a scandalous amount of logs in the water that we burn as firewood on beach patio and our fireplace. The tug will be used to push these back to shore where I can reach them with a pipe pole, and hoist them up with my crane. The boat will be very crude in its finishing, and have very little detail, and the "house" will only roughly represent the tug I am modelling it after. in fact I expect to place a handle on it so I can handle it like a suitcase. it is 45" long and single screw (3.75" four blade prop) I am using a steerable Kort nozzle I built and has a rudder on the nozzle as well.
    5 years ago by PikaSteve
    Response
    Flower class corvette scale 1/48
    Good luck with your build. The hull construction is looking good. Once completed the hull will be strong and watertight. I have an original Airfix corvette that I sail in calm waters. I have acquired a
    fiberglass
    hull for the Castle Class Corvettes at 1:48 and will be building to scale once I have settled on an actual boat. Very seaworthy boats and at your scale it will be a joy to sail. I look forward to following your build blog
    5 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Scratch build of a fast bulker
    HI Ubay Welcome to the site. The rubber caps on your SLA batteries are a safety device and should not be covered whilst charging. if the cells gas an explosive gas (hydrogen) can be produced so I suggest you do not continue with this idea. SLA batteries need a special constant voltage charger and should not be charges with a car battery charger, there are many trickle chargers available that will safely charge your new SLA's. I think a bow thruster would be a good addition to this model as it will be difficult to dock in any sort of breeze unless you have tug assistance. Looking at your pics I can see you have already fitted cardboard formers to the hull. I have built many models with
    fiberglass
    hulls and usually run longitudinal stringers round the inside of the hull to keep everything square and provide a base for the decks. You may find that the hull has flexed in once you removed the flange casting. You can still apply stringers between your formers to keep the hull sides flat if these have been fixed in place. A straight edge along the outside of the hull should help you, but do follow any natural curve. The markings on the hull are meant as a guide and are rarely spot on. Looking at your rudder it is slightly out of alignment but the model will sail OK with this positioning. The alternative would be to open the rudder hole with a file so that the alignment was central. You can make good the damage with some body filler as used on your prop shaft. You are progressing well and please keep the pics and info coming πŸ˜€
    5 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Build log of a fast Bulker
    HI Ubay Welcome to the site. The rubber caps on your SLA batteries are a safety device and should not be covered whilst charging. if the cells gas an explosive gas (hydrogen) can be produced so I suggest you do not continue with this idea. SLA batteries need a special constant voltage charger and should not be charges with a car battery charger, there are many trickle chargers available that will safely charge your new SLA's. I think a bow thruster would be a good addition to this model as it will be difficult to dock in any sort of breeze unless you have tug assistance. We actually have a Build Blog section and you may wish to repost your build to that section as you will receive more comments/suggestions. Looking at your pics I can see you have already fitted cardboard formers to the hull. I have built many models with
    fiberglass
    hulls and usually run longitudinal stringers round the inside of the hull to keep everything square and provide a base for the decks. You may find that the hull has flexed in once you removed the flange casting. You can still apply stringers between your formers to keep the hull sides flat if these have been fixed in place. A straight edge along the outside of the hull should help you, but do follow any natural curve. The markings on the hull are meant as a guide and are rarely spot on. Looking at your rudder it is slightly out of alignment but the model will sail OK with this positioning. The alternative would be to open the rudder hole with a file so that the alignment was central. You can make good the damage with some body filler as used on your prop shaft. You are progressing well and please keep the pics and info coming πŸ˜€
    5 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Scratch build of a fast bulker
    I have so far cut the
    fiberglass
    shell to provide a more aesthetically pleasing hull form but the lines do need to be finished, I attempted this with the rotary tool I used to cut the hull but it was to hard on the hull and was uncontrollable so I need to go and get a sanding block to finish the edges, The holes for the shaft and Rudder was pre embossed on the hull, these were gut and sanded to the correct diameter to prevent cracking of the
    fiberglass
    , but as can be seen from the pictures the rudder and Centre of the prop shaft are misaligned by a few mm not that big of a deal but a little annoying since I used pre marked drill points. The rudder has been affixed permanently, and has a slight overhang as the previous rudder I bought was too small and now the next size up is too big, will probable cut this later on but bigger is always better for turning. I have created a cardboard template for the main deck, quarter deck and frames and I have lost my bow template but I think I wont use it anyway. I would strongly advise this as the cardboard I have used is the thicker stuff at approx. 3-4mm thick which is how thick I want the wood to be so it was good for test fitting and eventually the final iteration will provide a 1:1 cutting template. As I have previously said the batteries need replacing but I will stick with these for now until the build is completed as the replacements will be the same size.
    5 years ago by ubay93
    Blog
    Edmund Gardner Liverpool Pilot Boat
    Most photos self explanatory. The last photo shows that all the workings have been completed at this stage. The Pilots Boarding station were cut out on last model but as these shipped water in heavy weather I decided not to put cut outs and they are just surface detail and totally waterproof. Hull covered with masking tape followed by
    fiberglass
    tissue and then car body filler to finish; all ready to paint now.
    5 years ago by 4clubs
    Blog
    Edmund Gardner Liverpool Pilot Boat
    The Edmund Gardener was Liverpool pilot boat number 2 and is preserved in the Liverpool dock complex. I have made this model some years ago but decided to do another one, learning from some mistakes made in the first one. I spent a day on-board and have a plethora of photos and a full set of plans so should not be a problem. Other commitments now will slow down the build as I usually knock a model up in a few months. I hate making the hulls from scratch but here goes. Photo 1 shows the keel and hull formers taken from the plans. Photo 2 shows one of the bulkheads in place. Photo 3 shows all the bulkheads in place on the keel Photo 4 shows the inter bulkhead supports put in place 1/8" ply was used for keel and bulkheads. The skeleton was covered with cheap masking tape, then
    fiberglass
    tissue, final fill with car body filler and endless sanding, but now ready for primer paint.
    5 years ago by 4clubs
    Blog
    More on the front end
    The photo's show my slow progress. The balsa blocks have been added, carved and sanded to shape and then the whole front underside coated with body filler and sanded smooth. The balsa is in a very vulnerable position and very likely to suffer dings in use, so I am coating the whole front end with two layers of 3/4 oz fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin. This process is new to me, although I've repaired
    fiberglass
    canoes in the past but not then worried too much about the finish. This time I used finishing epoxy which was made more 'spreadable' by adding metholated spirit to the emixture. it evaporates before the epoxy hardens but makes it more 'runny' and easy to spread. It was a relief that it hardened well and sanded easily to remove any drips. The excess fibreglass cloth also sanded off easily.
    5 years ago by Lauriem
    Directory
    (Life Boat) Douglas Currie
    A model of the Solent Lifeboat Douglas Currie to 1/12 scale. Fully operational siren, radar scanner,windscreen wipers lights etc. scratch built wooden hull and wooden superstructure. Hull coated with
    fiberglass
    gel to make waterproof. Most of the fittings are also handmade. Stanchions and hand rails all handmade. (Motor: Ford Cortina Fan Motors) (ESC: Home made) (8/10)
    6 years ago by 4clubs
    Blog
    Mersey Ferry Wallasey (III)
    Wallasey was built in Dundee in 1927 and was last used on the Mersey in 1963 being the last steam propelled ferry on the Mersey. The model has a
    fiberglass
    hull and I am the co owner of the mould to make these finely detailed hulls. The model is approx 1/48 scale and is powered by two small electric motors on 6 volt battery. I have made quite a few Mersey Ferries: with a name like Max Ferrie, what do you expect! Just look at my avatar. The photos show the stern gear mounted and also cardboard template for the main deck. Last photo is the ply deck fitted.
    6 years ago by 4clubs
    Directory
    (Racing Boat) Volle 650
    fiberglass
    , shaft 4mm, new motor 2900kv watercooled (Motor: Turnigy) (ESC: Hobbywing) (8/10)
    6 years ago by Volle
    Forum
    Wanted
    Wanted plans for the envoy salvage class tug 1/48th scale 43 Inches long, civilian type
    fiberglass
    hull also any templates for this hull, will reimburse postage etc, even copy's will do . This Is a model slipway kit. Please contact me via this wanted add, or email me at (PM only.Admin)) thank you.
    6 years ago by PEDRO54
    Media
    Mersey Ferry Rose
    This boat is scratch built on a
    fiberglass
    Hull. The Lily was one of two ferries built in 1900. Her sister ship was the Rose. The superstructure of the model is largely light-ply and paneled to resemble the orginal. She had an open top deck and as you can see the navigation pods were open to the weather. A semaphore signal arm was included as radio was not yet used to communicate with each other on the Mersey. The model is approx1/48 scale and built from a couple of photos and sketches that exist. She is powered by two 340 electric motors and controlled with 2.4ghz radio. A 12 volt battery gives the power. Both decks are individually planked. She has sailed at Hoylake.
    6 years ago by 4clubs
    Media
    HILDA
    Another damaged
    fiberglass
    hull rescued. every thing else made by me. At 3/4"=1' a very big model. Completed 2012 but only sailed twice, a very good sailor just needs a big lake. The mast lifts & folds forward after removing the hatch. The top mast lowered, the bowsprit retracted and the sails raped around the shrouds, held in place with masking tape. ( this stops the lines from tangling.) Takes about 5 minutes to reassemble.
    6 years ago by hammer
    Directory
    (Other) HILDA
    3/4"=1' a big model, very good sailor with internal ballast only. Another rescued
    fiberglass
    hull. Every thing else made by me. (Motor: wind only) (8/10)
    6 years ago by hammer
    Response
    Cariad Sailing after refit
    Paignton, in Yongs Park only in the winter as there is a concession for motor boats in the summer. The Exeter club's new pond is almost surrounded by trees over hanging the water, no good at all for boats with no motor. This summer I am going to try the river Teign (salt water tidal). I will have to loan a friends 16ft boat incase things go wrong and the model goes out to sea. Thinking about things, your motor although low down will give your boat a higher C of G to mine. My ballast is chips of sheet lead mixed with cement, spread along the bottom. I must confess I sold Spray on Ebay Β£250. Was the only
    fiberglass
    hull I had. Needed the room. I still have a Sailing trawler,4ft pilot cutter cutter 4ft, Topsail schooner 3ft, all plus bowsprit, & 2 paddle steamers 5ft & 6ft both steam. Only the schooner has a drop keel. πŸ”¨
    6 years ago by hammer
    Response
    Cariad Sailing after refit
    Well Dave its been a long time since your last post, so I hope you had plenty of sailing. But still no video. I had a Chris Brown Cariad & had no trouble sailing with internal ballast only. Even in a force 9 gale, OK it wouldn't turn into the wind. Had the
    fiberglass
    hall it was a cheep reject, now sold as I needed the room. I notice you have no topsail, I removed mine in any thing above a breeze. in a blow also remove the jib & rolled the main down around the boom, 4 or 5 turns. Sorry can't put photo here but can be seen in the gallery . πŸ”¨
    6 years ago by hammer
    Response
    AEROKITS 46'' FIREBOAT....A TROUBLED PROJECT
    As original IC Aerokit restorations go this isn't that bad. is the wood in the engine bay solid or spongy? Providing its not the latter it should be OK depending on the level of detail you intend to incorporate into your model. I suggest you remove all of the remaining bits of paint as it will play havoc with whatever you choose to do with the hull. Many restorations cover the hull with
    fiberglass
    cloth, is this your intention? Single or dual prop/rudder also needs to be considered before you get to that stage. My part built (not yet skinned) fireboat is awaiting space so am interested to see how you progress πŸ˜€
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    RAF ASR boat
    HELP!! Can anyone tell me what designation this ASR boat Is, I cannot find anything like It. It had a
    fiberglass
    hull and cabin, twin motors, very streamlined, hope someone can help with Info......
    6 years ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    HMS Tean
    Debbie what is your thoughts on using epoxy and lt wt
    fiberglass
    ?
    6 years ago by Flycatter60
    Blog
    Ballast & planking repair
    Just a few pics of the ballast, internal support and the
    fiberglass
    repair to the side planks to the uprights. Sail test tomorrow.
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Making a mould to fabricate a hull
    Have not tried this method personally but do know others who have had success. I believe you may have yo cover the finished foam shape with some form of protection (parcel tape may work) otherwise your shape will dissolve before the resin sets. Assuming you only require the one hull this may be th quickest method but I suspect you will need quite a bit of rubbing down to achieve the required finish. If you are considering multiple copies your former is unlikely to survive the removal from the hull.The traditional way is to make a hull and prepare a mould (usually in two parts) and lay the
    fiberglass
    in the mould on top of a gel coat. Takes some time but the end result is repeatable. Good luck with your project, perhaps you will start a build blog to share your experiences πŸ˜€
    6 years ago by Dave M


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