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    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi Sakibian, The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats. My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then
    fibreglass
    ed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions. I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
    4 months ago by reilly4
    Directory
    (Other) Vosper RTTL
    Recently acquired
    fibreglass
    hull and plan. Build to take place in parallel with others on the bench over the next six months. (5/10)
    4 months ago by Welshsailor
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    Hello all this is my latest build of the Kingston mouldings Bristol pilot cutter 'mascotte' was purchased from a forum friend who no longer had time to build it. Sadly Kingston mouldings has now closed down. The first job was to glue the lead ballast into the bottom of the hull, this was done by using
    fibreglass
    resin then a couple of layers of
    fibreglass
    to seal the lead shot into the built in keel
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Directory
    (Racing Boat) Hydro
    Complete
    fibreglass
    .straight shaft, uses three channels. Speed,Rudder,and flaps for rear plane .when using best to wear brown trousers (on 5 cells I have had 57.4 mph (Motor: Sss4075) (ESC: Flycolor) (8/10)
    6 months ago by Purser1944
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Leilah Marie
    fibreglass
    hull and top.deck is hand laid planking with black card in between to simulate caulking.props are prop shop three blades at 55mm each working radar and search lite. Mainmast lights consist of white over red, learned this very early in my career first thing you see when pilot comes aboard is his white hair, followed by his red nose..... full lighting system. Plus nav lights (Motor: GHD) (ESC: Hobbyking) (8/10)
    6 months ago by Purser1944
    Response
    Now Coating and Matting
    After the application of
    fibreglass
    or matting i usually put on a second coat of EZ-Cote.After drying lightly sand.Overlaps I find easy to level up with another coat of EZ-Cote.I have been using the same bottle for 3 years.That stuff really stretches.All the wrong size fittings can always be used on other projects or modify them to suit yours.
    8 months ago by Donnieboy
    Response
    fibreglass
    the hull- continued
    That has saved me a lot of bother! thanks. NPJ
    9 months ago by NPJ
    Blog
    Emma C Berry Schooner
    Scratch built from old kit plans but planked and
    fibreglass
    ed rather than balsa sheeted as in the original. Modified to fit a removable keel. Winch and continuous loop sail control fitted under deck.
    9 months ago by alan20
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Eze-Coat is fabulous stuff to use.It is thin enough to run into any crack in hull and seal it up.I also use it to
    fibreglass
    hulls.No fuss no mess.
    10 months ago by Donnieboy
    Forum
    Wianno Senior progressing
    Added rudder today.
    fibreglass
    applied and fillers between rudder and shaft. I put in a temporary mini servo, not pictured, but it was just beside the control horn.
    11 months ago by Ron
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    I’m have 1m long x 320mm beam
    fibreglass
    hull and s
    fibreglass
    deck 310mm at its widest. When dry fitted there is a gap about 8mm wide each side rearward of the bow. The deck measurements are symetrical side to side. Should I force the hull sides to fit as tight as possible or leave the gap and fill it or something in the middle? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    I hit the button to chant the keyboard to danish and spell check changed the word!
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    Model
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    Moslem !!?? 😲
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    That’s about right. Thank you I think that’s all I can do, it pulls up tight in places
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    Fits but leaves gaps suggest to me that it only really fits where it touches, as my Dad used to say. Which suggests a wavy deck edge. Not worth the hassle. if it'll fit once cut, cut it, back it up and fill. I would imagine you could bond in some 2mm styrene or plywood then fill over that with a car body filler, to smooth the joint. I am assuming the deck is meant to fit that hull? You never know! Cheers, Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    Thank you for that, I have pulled them with tape although it’s hard to get it to hold in position, it does then mostly fit leaving areas to fill
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    fibreglass
    hull/deck fit
    Have you tried pulling the sides of the hull in to fit? if so, does it do so happily? if not, but it fits well at the edges, shapewise then yes, cut it down the middle, join with a butt strap underneath for strength and carry on as if it were the original moulding. That's what I'd do. Ain't nuffink can't be fixed! Cheers, Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Wherry hull in GRP
    Hi Dave and welcome to the mad house, looking at the picture of the hull the hull sides look like they are collapsing, what weight of
    fibreglass
    are you using for the hull? What is the finished thickness of the hull? Is there a reason for the fin running the length of the hull ? Ron
    11 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration tips
    Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. if you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft
    fibreglass
    cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. it goes much further and gets forced into the grain. it's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Response
    fibreglass
    the hull
    That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Response
    fibreglass
    the hull
    Hi Michael. I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence. I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface. If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks. I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😑. It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose. Keep up the great work. Robbob.
    1 year ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) S10
    Built from a Vic Smeed plan in 1986,
    fibreglass
    hull, wood and plasticard and plasticard superstructure and various plastic, wood and metal fittings. (Motor: Graupner jumbo 540) (ESC: Mtronik) (5/10)
    1 year ago by Will-I-Am
    Forum
    Wianno Senior
    Progressing well. The removable roof above the cabin was just clamped; seats have been started; exterior of the hull will be
    fibreglass
    ed and resin applied to the interior. I have received mast lengths from the Wianno Senior Association and the gaff and boom too. These will be made from Sitka Spruce later in the month.
    1 year ago by Ron
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D
    1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. it took 3.5 years. Plywood bulkheads, pine stringers & balsawood planking, then
    fibreglass
    ed. Superstructure balsawood. Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah. 6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is Futaba 2.4 GHz (Motor: Graupner 700BB 12V) (ESC: MTroniks 30A Tio x 2) (9/10)
    1 year ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    The strengtheners for where the main mast will be fixed in place through the deck were glued in place with gorilla glue and
    fibreglass
    ed in once the glue had gone of again this timber was an of cut that was to hand but this needed to be substantial as I would be using 12mm dowel for the main mast.
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    The next job was to fit the bulk heads and the deck shelf strips around the edges. I had some scrap pieces of 8mm OSB board so I used this for the bulk heads which were glued in place using gorilla glue then
    fibreglass
    ed in once the glue had gone of. The shelf strips are 10mm square oak that were fixed 6mm below final deck hieght as I will be using 4mm ply for the sub deck followed by 2mm planking strips in walnut and beech.
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Blog
    Main deck and cabin walls
    Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😑 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an italian LuganaπŸ˜‰) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'πŸ€” Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finishπŸ€” Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or
    fibreglass
    , almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😑) Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I have scratch-built a Fairmile D in 1/24 scale. if you look through my posts/videos you will see it. I used the Lambert-Ross Allied Coastal Forces book for the plan that I scaled up. Perhaps I should enter it in my boat harbour. Anatomy of a Ship is also a good source of information. I built mine from Balsawood/Pine and
    fibreglass
    ed it. Attached are a few photos. Watch the videos. They may inspire you. I have previously posted these links under videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3KotucrlzE&t=20s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny718cnD6sQ&t=166s
    1 year ago by reilly4
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Vliestroom
    fibreglass
    hull 1:40 (5/10)
    1 year ago by Toby
    Directory
    (Other) KGS Komet
    fibreglass
    hull. 1:50 (5/10)
    1 year ago by Toby
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) HMT Perseverance
    fibreglass
    hull 1:32 (5/10)
    1 year ago by Toby
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) HMS Leeds Castle
    Plank on frame 1:48 Served in Falklands P258 (5/10)
    1 year ago by Toby
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) HMS Bulldog
    fibreglass
    hull 1:48 (5/10)
    1 year ago by Toby
    Response
    It’s been a long day!
    Are you planning
    fibreglass
    ing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.
    1 year ago by Bobatsea
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. it could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic,
    fibreglass
    ? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Kyosho Fortune 612
    Had this Fortune 612 delivered through the post while in Hospital and when unpacked found that the keel had broken at the base. Any advice please as to a suitable method of repair as I can't seem to find a replacement on 'tinternet'.
    fibreglass
    comes to mind???
    2 years ago by AllenA
    Forum
    What is this boat ?????
    Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet. http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/. The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's
    fibreglass
    , the hull shows wood? Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism. A build blog would be welcome, please. Good luck
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Media
    Vosper MTB385
    Scratchbuilt WW2 1/24 Scale Vosper 73' Type 1 MTB. Built in 2016, in company with a friend's 1/24 scale BPB MGB. The Vosper hull is built from balsawood and
    fibreglass
    . The upper deck and superstructure is from balsawood. The weapons and fittings are from brass, aluminium and plastic. The 20mm and gunner can rotate.
    1 year ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Footy
    I would say Dave, it best fits the 507 design and the rudder of a β€œSiren”. See my new photos to compare. The hull is
    fibreglass
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    Plasticard boats
    Hi Welcome to the site If it's plasticard using
    fibreglass
    or paint stripper may cause it to melt. What is your intention for the hull? Can you post a pic? If the hull paint is sound you may be able to rub it down with fine wire wool and overpaint.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE
    The DF95 is too short at 950mm for IOM. I think that the Ragazza can squeeze into the IOM rules with a bit of tweaking. The supplied mast and sails fall between an A rig and a B rig in size. The mast is removable. If you decide to change the paintwork on a Ragazza you have two options. 1. Paint over the existing surface and add a bit more weight. 2. Strip the existing surface off and repaint on the bare
    fibreglass
    . Beware, this is not an easy job. The existing surface is VERY hard and takes a lot of sanding with very heavy sand paper to remove. Been there, done that. The Ragazza is a pretty boat and fun to sail but it will not stand up against the red hot competition IOMs.
    2 years ago by terrymiff
    Forum
    What Gun?
    Half a rubber / plastic ball could mould the hemisphere using
    fibreglass
    or glass cloth and resin.Either inside or out. Out for a mould to make the finished article. inside for the finished article. The barrel from successive gauges of brass and / or ali tubing to give the stepped effect . Regards John πŸ˜‹πŸ‘
    2 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    fibre glass or not
    Hi Fred, This all depends on the size and structure of the boat and the type of timber used as a skin.
    fibreglass
    is generally used to strengthen and waterproof the boat.
    2 years ago by reilly4
    Forum
    waterproofing
    Hi eric Welcome to the site. What type of boat have you bought? is it a plastic,
    fibreglass
    or wood hull? Can you post a pic? We need a bit more detail please so we can give useful advice Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Precedent Huntsman 34''
    Hi Gents I received my drive line last night and installed it and the motor mount, also added a wood block for the rudder.
    fibreglass
    it all it. The prop is a 50mm with 4mm clearance, but, I run 40mm props on my boats this size. Canabus
    2 years ago by canabus
    Forum
    Sea Queen refurbishment
    Hi All Polyester resin uses Styrene as the solvent. Over time this evaporates and the resin becomes too thick to use for layup of
    fibreglass
    . Adding more styrene will restore the resin to its correct fluid layup state. if you use large quantities stored in large cans this is a real lifesaver. Smaller cans do not suffer quite the same as they are usually quickly used. Hope this helps your understanding of Polyester resin. Cheers Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2
    Hi All Sealed the forward inside with
    fibreglass
    and installed the forward deck. Canabus
    2 years ago by canabus
    Response
    SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2
    Hi Guys Only more planking, but, I can finally start to see the hull shape. The veneer planking is dam strong and very light. The only part which I think I maybe required another stringer is the cockpit between the stringer and the sides, but, I will add some 2 ounce
    fibreglass
    matt when I resin the inside.
    2 years ago by canabus
    Blog
    Jet Sprint Boat
    Removed first hull from mould Had a few problems with the release but all OK now so onwards and upwards !! Laid profile for top deck now and starting the clay shaping Should be a bit easier than the hull and hope to have this ready for moulding shortly I intend to cover it with silicone first to get a good impression and back it up for strength with
    fibreglass
    strengthened casting plaster I will then lay the
    fibreglass
    in the mould and gradually build it up for the finished article Well that's the theory at this stage lol Will keep in touch with progress but going well and I am happy with the results so far
    2 years ago by Rod


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