Forum
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
Hi Sakibian,
The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats.
My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then
fibreglass
ed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions.
I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
5 years ago by reilly4
Directory
(Other) Vosper RTTL
Recently acquired
fibreglass
hull and plan. Build to take place in parallel with others on the bench over the next six months. (5/10)
5 years ago by Welshsailor
Forum
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
Hello all this is my latest build of the Kingston mouldings Bristol pilot cutter 'mascotte' was purchased from a forum friend who no longer had time to build it.
Sadly Kingston mouldings has now closed down.
The first job was to glue the lead ballast into the bottom of the hull, this was done by using
fibreglass
resin then a couple of layers of
fibreglass
to seal the lead shot into the built in keel
6 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Directory
(Racing Boat) Hydro
Complete
fibreglass
.straight shaft, uses three channels. Speed,Rudder,and flaps for rear plane .when using best to wear brown trousers (on 5 cells I have had 57.4 mph (Motor: Sss4075) (ESC: Flycolor) (8/10)
5 years ago by Purser1944
Directory
(Working Vessel) Leilah Marie
fibreglass
hull and top.deck is hand laid planking with black card in between to simulate caulking.props are prop shop three blades at 55mm each working radar and search lite. Mainmast lights consist of white over red, learned this very early in my career first thing you see when pilot comes aboard is his white hair, followed by his red nose..... full lighting system. Plus nav lights (Motor: GHD) (ESC: Hobbyking) (8/10)
5 years ago by Purser1944
Response
Now Coating and Matting
After the application of
fibreglass
or matting i usually put on a second coat of EZ-Cote.After drying lightly sand.Overlaps I find easy to level up with another coat of EZ-Cote.I have been using the same bottle for 3 years.That stuff really stretches.All the wrong size fittings can always be used on other projects or modify them to suit yours.
6 years ago by Donnieboy
Response
fibreglass
the hull- continued
That has saved me a lot of bother!
thanks.
NPJ
6 years ago by NPJ
Blog
Emma C Berry Schooner
Scratch built from old kit plans but planked and
fibreglass
ed rather than balsa sheeted as in the original. Modified to fit a removable keel. Winch and continuous loop sail control fitted under deck.
6 years ago by alan20
Response
Range Safety Launch?
Eze-Coat is fabulous stuff to use.It is thin enough to run into any crack in hull and seal it up.I also use it to
fibreglass
hulls.No fuss no mess.
6 years ago by Donnieboy
Forum
Wianno Senior progressing
Added rudder today.
fibreglass
applied and fillers between rudder and shaft.
I put in a temporary mini servo, not pictured, but it was just beside the control horn.
6 years ago by Ronald
Forum
Iβm have 1m long x 320mm beam
fibreglass
hull and s
fibreglass
deck 310mm at its widest. When dry fitted there is a gap about 8mm wide each side rearward of the bow. The deck measurements are symetrical side to side. Should I force the hull sides to fit as tight as possible or leave the gap and fill it or something in the middle? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
6 years ago by Brianaro
Forum
I hit the button to chant the keyboard to danish and spell check changed the word!
6 years ago by Brianaro
Forum
Model
6 years ago by Brianaro
Forum
Moslem !!?? π²
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Thatβs about right. Thank you I think thatβs all I can do, it pulls up tight in places
6 years ago by Brianaro
Forum
Fits but leaves gaps suggest to me that it only really fits where it touches, as my Dad used to say. Which suggests a wavy deck edge. Not worth the hassle. if it'll fit once cut, cut it, back it up and fill. I would imagine you could bond in some 2mm styrene or plywood then fill over that with a car body filler, to smooth the joint. I am assuming the deck is meant to fit that hull? You never know!
Cheers, Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
Thank you for that, I have pulled them with tape although itβs hard to get it to hold in position, it does then mostly fit leaving areas to fill
6 years ago by Brianaro
Forum
Have you tried pulling the sides of the hull in to fit? if so, does it do so happily? if not, but it fits well at the edges, shapewise then yes, cut it down the middle, join with a butt strap underneath for strength and carry on as if it were the original moulding.
That's what I'd do. Ain't nuffink can't be fixed!
Cheers,
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
Wherry hull in GRP
Hi Dave and welcome to the mad house, looking at the picture of the hull the hull sides look like they are collapsing, what weight of
fibreglass
are you using for the hull?
What is the finished thickness of the hull?
Is there a reason for the fin running the length of the hull ?
Ron
6 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Forum
Sea Commander restoration tips
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. if you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft
fibreglass
cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. it goes much further and gets forced into the grain. it's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course).
Cheers,
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Response
That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.
6 years ago by mturpin013
Response
Hi Michael.
I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence.
I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface.
If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks.
I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorwayπ‘.
It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose.
Keep up the great work.
Robbob.
6 years ago by robbob
Directory
(Naval Ship) S10
Built from a Vic Smeed plan in 1986,
fibreglass
hull, wood and plasticard and plasticard superstructure and various plastic, wood and metal fittings. (Motor: Graupner jumbo 540) (ESC: Mtronik) (5/10)
6 years ago by Will-I-Am
Forum
Wianno Senior
Progressing well. The removable roof above the cabin was just clamped; seats have been started; exterior of the hull will be
fibreglass
ed and resin applied to the interior.
I have received mast lengths from the Wianno Senior Association and the gaff and boom too. These will be made from Sitka Spruce later in the month.
6 years ago by Ronald
Directory
(Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D
1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. it took 3.5 years.
Plywood bulkheads, pine stringers & balsawood planking, then
fibreglass
ed. Superstructure balsawood.
Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah.
6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is Futaba 2.4 GHz (Motor: Graupner 700BB 12V) (ESC: MTroniks 30A Tio x 2) (9/10)
6 years ago by reilly4
Forum
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
The strengtheners for where the main mast will be fixed in place through the deck were glued in place with gorilla glue and
fibreglass
ed in once the glue had gone of again this timber was an of cut that was to hand but this needed to be substantial as I would be using 12mm dowel for the main mast.
6 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Forum
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
The next job was to fit the bulk heads and the deck shelf strips around the edges.
I had some scrap pieces of 8mm OSB board so I used this for the bulk heads which were glued in place using gorilla glue then
fibreglass
ed in once the glue had gone of. The shelf strips are 10mm square oak that were fixed 6mm below final deck hieght as I will be using 4mm ply for the sub deck followed by 2mm planking strips in walnut and beech.
6 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Blog
Main deck and cabin walls
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!π
After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One!
Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)π‘ Anyway, worked out in the end.
I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.)
Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an italian Luganaπ) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that π Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it.
The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux!
Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck.
Suggestions welcome please.
After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 π²
Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'π€
Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!)
Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit.
Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finishπ€
Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better π like the proverbial baby's ...!
Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap.
Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only.
Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.π Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it!
Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish.
Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or
fibreglass
, almost forgot that there is wood underneathπ
Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!'
(sorry Flash reels got lost in the postπ‘)
Cheers Doug π
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
I have scratch-built a Fairmile D in 1/24 scale. if you look through my posts/videos you will see it. I used the Lambert-Ross Allied Coastal Forces book for the plan that I scaled up. Perhaps I should enter it in my boat harbour. Anatomy of a Ship is also a good source of information. I built mine from Balsawood/Pine and
fibreglass
ed it. Attached are a few photos. Watch the videos. They may inspire you. I have previously posted these links under videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3KotucrlzE&t=20s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny718cnD6sQ&t=166s
6 years ago by reilly4
Directory
(Working Vessel) Vliestroom
fibreglass
hull 1:40 (5/10)
6 years ago by Toby
Directory
(Other) KGS Komet
fibreglass
hull. 1:50 (5/10)
6 years ago by Toby
Directory
(Tug Boat) HMT Perseverance
fibreglass
hull 1:32 (5/10)
6 years ago by Toby
Directory
(Naval Ship) HMS Leeds Castle
Plank on frame 1:48 Served in Falklands P258 (5/10)
6 years ago by Toby
Directory
(Working Vessel) HMS Bulldog
fibreglass
hull 1:48 (5/10)
6 years ago by Toby
Response
Itβs been a long day!
Are you planning
fibreglass
ing your hull? I did mine, 1 strip down the keel and around the stern, then both sides. Currently on coat # 5 of resin with sanding in between.
6 years ago by Bobatsea
Forum
Too Powerful Brushless ?
I have to agree with Peter's comments.
I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. it could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running.
You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly.
The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered.
Is your hull wood, plastic,
fibreglass
? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK.
Good luck and please keep us posted
6 years ago by Dave M
Forum
Kyosho Fortune 612
Had this Fortune 612 delivered through the post while in Hospital and when unpacked found that the keel had broken at the base. Any advice please as to a suitable method of repair as I can't seem to find a replacement on 'tinternet'.
fibreglass
comes to mind???
7 years ago by AllenA
Forum
What is this boat ?????
Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet.
http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/.
The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's
fibreglass
, the hull shows wood?
Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism.
A build blog would be welcome, please.
Good luck
6 years ago by Dave M
Media
Vosper MTB385
Scratchbuilt WW2 1/24 Scale Vosper 73' Type 1 MTB. Built in 2016, in company with a friend's 1/24 scale BPB MGB.
The Vosper hull is built from balsawood and
fibreglass
. The upper deck and superstructure is from balsawood. The weapons and fittings are from brass, aluminium and plastic. The 20mm and gunner can rotate.
6 years ago by reilly4
Forum
Footy
I would say Dave, it best fits the 507 design and the rudder of a βSirenβ. See my new photos to compare. The hull is
fibreglass
6 years ago by Ronald
Forum
Plasticard boats
Hi
Welcome to the site
If it's plasticard using
fibreglass
or paint stripper may cause it to melt.
What is your intention for the hull? Can you post a pic?
If the hull paint is sound you may be able to rub it down with fine wire wool and overpaint.
7 years ago by Dave M
Forum
HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE
The DF95 is too short at 950mm for IOM.
I think that the Ragazza can squeeze into the IOM rules with a bit of tweaking. The supplied mast and sails fall between an A rig and a B rig in size. The mast is removable.
If you decide to change the paintwork on a Ragazza you have two options.
1. Paint over the existing surface and add a bit more weight.
2. Strip the existing surface off and repaint on the bare
fibreglass
. Beware, this is not an easy job. The existing surface is VERY hard and takes a lot of sanding with very heavy sand paper to remove. Been there, done that.
The Ragazza is a pretty boat and fun to sail but it will not stand up against the red hot competition IOMs.
7 years ago by terrymiff
Forum
What Gun?
Half a rubber / plastic ball could mould the hemisphere using
fibreglass
or glass cloth and resin.Either inside or out. Out for a mould to make the finished article. inside for the finished article. The barrel from successive gauges of brass and / or ali tubing to give the stepped effect . Regards John ππ
7 years ago by onetenor
Forum
fibre glass or not
Hi Fred,
This all depends on the size and structure of the boat and the type of timber used as a skin.
fibreglass
is generally used to strengthen and waterproof the boat.
7 years ago by reilly4
Forum
waterproofing
Hi eric
Welcome to the site.
What type of boat have you bought? is it a plastic,
fibreglass
or wood hull?
Can you post a pic?
We need a bit more detail please so we can give useful advice
Dave
7 years ago by Dave M
Response
Precedent Huntsman 34''
Hi Gents
I received my drive line last night and installed it and the motor mount, also added a wood block for the rudder.
fibreglass
it all it.
The prop is a 50mm with 4mm clearance, but, I run 40mm props on my boats this size.
Canabus
7 years ago by canabus
Forum
Sea Queen refurbishment
Hi All
Polyester resin uses Styrene as the solvent. Over time this evaporates and the resin becomes too thick to use for layup of
fibreglass
. Adding more styrene will restore the resin to its correct fluid layup state. if you use large quantities stored in large cans this is a real lifesaver. Smaller cans do not suffer quite the same as they are usually quickly used.
Hope this helps your understanding of Polyester resin.
Cheers
Dave
7 years ago by Dave M
Response
SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2
Hi All
Sealed the forward inside with
fibreglass
and installed the forward deck.
Canabus
7 years ago by canabus
Response
SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2
Hi Guys
Only more planking, but, I can finally start to see the hull shape.
The veneer planking is dam strong and very light.
The only part which I think I maybe required another stringer is the cockpit between the stringer and the sides, but, I will add some 2 ounce
fibreglass
matt when I resin the inside.
7 years ago by canabus
Blog
Jet Sprint Boat
Removed first hull from mould
Had a few problems with the release but all OK now so onwards and upwards !!
Laid profile for top deck now and starting the clay shaping
Should be a bit easier than the hull and hope to have this ready for moulding shortly
I intend to cover it with silicone first to get a good impression and back it up for strength with
fibreglass
strengthened casting plaster
I will then lay the
fibreglass
in the mould and gradually build it up for the finished article
Well that's the theory at this stage lol
Will keep in touch with progress but going well and I am happy with the results so far
7 years ago by Rod