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RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
I have been looking forward to starting this build for some time. It looks like this will be an interesting model to build but mainly I look forward to setting up the 16 channels required to give full function to all of the special features.
The Dusseldorf is one of three identical boats built for use in the Ruhr area of Germany. The boats are equipped for disaster situations, (they must have known I was going to build it)😀. They can be used for ship fires, oil leaks or as a port facility at risk of explosion.
s, radar, boat crane, lighting and anchor winch will all be working if I can sort out the controls. The
s are of particular interest because if I get things right, they will swivel, lift and lower and shoot water. We will see.
As stated in the instructions, I read most of them to see how things looked. I got bored at page six so forgot that bit. The next stage was to check the contents against the bill of materials. There must be 1000 pieces. I checked the large pieces and gave the rest a miss also. Not a good start I hear you cry. You will get used to it.
I proceeded to remove the stand parts and lightly sanded off the connection remains. I assembled it using super glue but I will strengthen the inner corners with Epoxy later. I stuck some draft excluder tape to all of the edges which contact the hull for safety.
Next stage was to trim off the excess material at deck level of the Hull. With 1.5mm thick ABS this is quite a job especially considering that the boat measures around 2.8 Metres all around. I used a Stanley knife to remove the bulk of the material followed by different sized files to trim to size. This process takes a lot of care so that not too much material is removed. The hull has a rather crude sort of line to work to but I think I will put more reliance on my eye and a two foot steel rule. I still have a little filing of the edges to do before I will be completely happy as this edge will be visible on the completed model.
According to the instructions my next stage is to fit the rudders, motors and prop shafts. A job for next week.
10 months ago by MouldBuilder
Re: Fitting out.
A nice looking boat, I notice you have your
piped through a pump which gets its supply from a pick up behind the prop. Is water forced through the pump and finally to the monitor when the pump isn't powered up? Something you may only notice when the boats moving and not always obvious.
2 months ago by mturpin013
Water system for
s and ECS
I have laid out all the various components on a building board, not necessarily in the correct orientation/position. The only thing I do know is that water needs to come out of the 4 pipes pointing into the tin.
I have a caravan pump serving as a water scoop (to simulate the water pickup as the boat moves forward) any water going through the system into the tin is piped back into the container under the bench where the pump is.
First thoughts are similar to others in that when the
s are operated the water is drawn back through the exhaust pipes and sucks air. To try and solve this I have put some small solenoid valves in the circuit. But first test show that they restrict the flow too much so a larger valve? Or I think the easiest solution would be to put another entry opening in the hull somewhere near the pump just below the water line on the side mid-ship so the pump can be connected directly and be primed when the boat is at a standstill (anybody see problems with this?) I think the only issue I can see is that when the boats in motion it may force water through the pump – then the monitor result – drip, drip. I think a properly designed inlet, that when in motion the tendency is to draw the air out of the system and not force water in until the boat is at a standstill when the water should just flow in. I have designed another outlet (not shown) for the exit of the cooling water and hopefully the smoke which has the water coming out of the centre 6mm pipe and the smoke exits through the surrounding space between the 6mm pipe and the 8mm surrounding hole.
(Ignore the black pump, top right, it was a first attempt at a water supply, it’s a car washer pump, but not powerful enough)
3 months ago by mturpin013
s Part 4
Re: How about using something like these remote switches which I use on my HSL and ST to turn pumps and lights etc on/off.
Yes, that would work but I should have explained the issue clearer. With the pump plumbed on the feed from the pickup as you suggested, the pump will need to run both when the monitors are in use and for cooling the motor/ESC. With they way I have it plumbed currently, the pump doesn’t need to run to cool the motor/ESC.
If I do find I need to change it round, I’ll probably put a remote switch together to connect to the throttle channel and the solenoid (
) channel. The switch could then turn the pump on when needed for either function.
4 months ago by Graham93
s Part 3
I have finally fitted the monitors onto the boat.
Servo mounts were made from aluminium angle. The position of the mounting hole in the forward cabin roof for the 8mm tube (see Part 2) was calculated based on the distance between the servo shaft and the mounting face of the aluminium servo mount plus a couple of mm. for adjustment. This dimension gave the distance of the hole from the bulkhead (CF3) on which the servo was to be mounted. The 8mm tube was glued into roof hole using epoxy. Once the epoxy was set the roof was put in position and a 7mm tube with wet paint on the end was slid down the 8mm mount to make contact with a temporary wooden block attached with double sided tape to the CF3 bulkhead below. The wet paint left a circular mark on the wooden block indicating where the servo should be positioned so that it's shaft would align with the
rotating column in the roof. The extra couple of mm. allowed for a spacer of suitable thickness to be made and fitted under the servo mount to achieve the correct alignment. The distance between the top of the 8mm tube and the wooden block was also measured allowing the required height of the servo mount to be calculated.
The same process was followed for the second
mounted on the engine room roof. In this case, the bulkhead (B4) had to be extended vertically to position the servo close enough to the roof. The servo mounts, and the new timber within the boat still need to be painted.
I had intended to use the crucifix servo arm to drive the rotating column, as can be seen in one of the photos. Whilst this worked OK, it was difficult to fit the roof and get the four pins at the bottom of the rotating column to engage in the holes in the servo arm. To make this easier the servo arms were adapted by adding a disc of 2mm plasticard with radial slots to engage with the drive pins. This has made fitting each roof easier.
The servo stretcher worked well, giving 180 degrees of rotation. However, once I saw it in operation, I decided it would be better to increase this to around 240 degrees as I had suspected. As stretching the drive pulse even further would not give more rotation I decided to try modifying the servos instead. This turned out to be easier than expected. Each servo was dismantled and two 3K resistors were added, one to each end of the feedback pot. The value was determined by trial and error. There was plenty of room to accomodate 1/8W resistors within the servo case. You can just see them in the photos. The servos now give the desired rotation without the need for the pulse stretchers.
I was hoping to include the plumbing details in this post, but I have had a few issues making this work acceptably, so I have had to go back to the drawing board and now have a few more bits and pieces to make. More to follow.....
4 months ago by Graham93
HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
I am currently working on a project that will use 16 channels. 3
s rotating, lifting, lowering and shooting water, a raise and lower anchor, a twist, lift and lower crane and all the usual. I am using an eight channel Tx with a further 8 channels using s-bus. We will see.🙀
4 months ago by MouldBuilder
s Part 1
s are excellent work as they are the first 'working' ones I've seen that actually look like they should. I think that the 'plinth' that it will sit on will present it's own problems with articulation and plumbing but you've cracked the hardest bit 👍
It was a pleasure meeting you at our club exhibition in St.Albans at the weekend and discussing our FireBoats, I know that you travelled a long way to see the show.
I have put a report about the show on the club website with a video that I produced that has some shots of my Fireboat on the water and the Thames Police Launch on display.
Keep up the great work.
5 months ago by robbob
When the boat was fitted with a diesel there was no deck between the forward cabin and the engine room. This was to allow room for the engine cylinder head. So the first task was to construct a planked deck to fill the space. The opportunity was also taken to add the cabin door detail, complete with dummy hinges and door knobs.
The davit was constructed from plasticard and painted gunmetal grey. Basic height and reach dimensions for this were taken from the plan. Details were added based on photos found on this site.
The scramble nets were made using black woven cord. This was laid out on a piece of scrap plywood using panel pins to space the cord into the desired net structure. The cord crossover joints were then glued with superglue. This didn't work well. The joints were not strong, some having to be re-glued. The dried glue caused a white stain on the cord. This was disguised with permanent black marker pen. A bigger issue was that the cord had absorbed the glue which wicked along the length from the joints making the net inflexible in parts. It would not roll up neatly and looked a mess. Fortunately I had enough cord left to make replacement nets. This time, each of the 100 crossover joints was sewn with black cotton thread. This took some time but the joints are now strong and the completed net is fully flexible.
This post brings us up to present day with the refit. There is still more to do including the
s and spotlight. Just to show it does sail, I've included a photo of it out on the lake yesterday. It is only running at approx. 1/4 throttle which doesn't show how it planes. I haven't yet mastered driving it at full speed while simultaneously taking photos!
5 months ago by Graham93
New In The Shop
To all water cannon enthusiasts:-
The shop is now selling working
s. These can be attached to a pipe at the base. The design is based around the crash tender, but any boat or tug of the same scale would be able to use these.
Currently 1:16, if there's any interest for 1:12 I'll look to add this scale too.
Separately... any parts not available which people would be interested in?
10 months ago by Fireboat
EeZeBilt RAF Crash Tender trial video
Given all the discussion, I thought I would put a video up of the Mk2 EeZeBilt Crash Tender on its first test. Very choppy water for a small boat at that end of the lake, but it coped. Perhaps a bit bow-heavy?
Poor quality phone pics, but you can see a bit of detail when the boat comes close. You can also just see a
operating at the end when the boat comes back in....
10 months ago by DodgyGeezer
I have purchased a ROBBE 1:25 Working
to fit on my rebuild of a Keilcraft RAF Vosper Crash Tender. The plans for the boat state 3/4 to 1inch (1:16 scale). The ROBBE
was the closest size I could find, but when it arrived it appears to be grossly out of scale and looks far to big and out proportion to fit on my boat. Is it me or have ROBBE got the scale wrong. As an aside I am very disappointed with the poor quality of the monitor which does not match its £25 cost.
1 year ago by RobbieMcKennan
(Working Vessel) Fairmount Glacier
A Billings kit, the Fairmount Glacier (or Alpine - comes with 5 naming options) is a sturdy boat... 2 props in Kort nozzles, extras I've fitted...37 lights, bow thruster, working
s, radar, & horn. Runs on 2 x 12v 7AH batteries, so runs for a while! Colour scheme makes it visible on the lake too! (Motor: 2 x M500 Mtronix) (ESC: JP Marine) (9/10)
1 year ago by Harvey Kitten
Range Safety Launch?
The ‘Range Safety Launch’………….
I am now the owner of this boat. Wooden, good hull lines and hull paint work but needing to be finished. I am told that it looks like it started life as a kit, but has had considerable modification to at least the above deck layout and detail.
Advice is that it could be a rather simplified Range Safety Launch, but maybe I can use a little ‘artistic licence’ and just make it look interesting and capable.
There are two main reasons for sharing this project.
1. I will undoubtedly need guidance
2. Maybe some of the information will assist others
The hull is 44 inches ( 112cm ) long and 14 inches (36cm ) wide, it has two brushed MFA Torpedo 800 motors………. and weighs in currently at 15 lbs 4ozs (6.91 kgs).
It is large enough for me to be able to work on reasonably comfortably and apart from the cabin/upper deck areas to be ‘improved’, I aim to introduce sound, lighting, active radar sweep, search light, together with maybe a deck hoist and water /
At my age it is difficult to tell the difference between wishful thinking and dementing……
However, the prime aim is to try and achieve at least some of this whilst having the boat usable during the current ‘season’.
There is so much knowledge, good will and help available on this site that even before I touched a thing, information came pouring in.
If anyone feels like making a contribution then please just ‘pile in’.
Have ordered some parts so next time should have something to show.
2 years ago by NPJ
Range Safety Launch?
Thanks very much Trekil and to Doug for going into his archives.
The issue that bothers me is this:-
I am not going to be able to 'bring it back' to what it should be due to previous structural changes. Also I would like to have some additional items such as the Radar and say a
So do I use such as a recognised number on the Hull or make one up?
I will be able to have the Hull back to Black and change some of the deck layout. BTW are we looking at White top structures light grey sides and dark grey deck?
I also fancied some 'anti slip' representation on deck. Where was that?
1 year ago by NPJ
46Firefloat Mk2 paint
Have started renovating old kit build of the 93/94 firefloat with no fittings. Can someone please help with paint colours, the Red and Black on hull are they both Matt. On the deck is the Dark Grey Matt non slip and are the roofs with the
s the same. The rest of the roofs are they dark grey Matt or gloss. The side are they Matt or gloss light grey.
Also has anyone got the main dimensions on the lift davit and the tow hook.
Any other info on this build would be appreciated as am copying from two old black and white photos. The model am building is 35” long and I think 16:1 scale.
2 years ago by Elsrickle
46Firefloat Mk2 paint
Interesting, valuable photos and drawings. More like that would be welcomed by many of us.
As it would have been illegal not to have a stern light on vessels like these, for both normal passage and also when towing, perhaps that photo without one was during build before it was fitted? No draft marks either. The photo of 93 secured at Vospers (therefore probably before acceptance) shows the stern light while the early type
s also show the date of the photo was early on.
I also note one drawing shows the breach hose connectors aft of the cockpit that indicate it to be of later than original build. Similarly the cockpit roof cleats have been re-positioned athwartships rather than the original two being fore-and-aft.
Considering their short operational life, it's surprising how many detail changes were made when all the available documentary evidence is studied! You'd think that after 60+ years all the answers would be known for sure by now!
2 years ago by astromorg
is connected to a water pipe.
But in this case it's a solid piece of aluminum tubing!
Which I had to bend and shape accordingly.
To the Pilot House and Captain's Cabin!
After bending to shape. I then glued miniature washers.
To simulate connection seams!
And there we have it.
and pipe painted the typical Red for Fire!
2 years ago by figtree7nts
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous.
Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me.
Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo.
Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? it would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too.
Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know.
I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah!
You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice.
Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls
Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love....
2 years ago by Westquay
Deck Hardware Painted!
Today was a good day to spray paint the Deck Hardware.
I also hand painted the
I painted the Deck Hardware black.
The main Deck will be a light Tan.
And the Main Cabin Deck light Grey!
I used duct tape to hold the small parts.
While I painted them!
2 years ago by figtree7nts
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲
There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's!
One thing at a time!
NUMBER1. THE RADIO-
Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place????
I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days.
I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange.
So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina.
Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍
In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it.
If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook.
If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered?
BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉
NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY-
Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity.
After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above.
This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity.
Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above.
And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out!
Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts.
NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER -
"Glorified voltmeter" ?
Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'?
If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age.
If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉
Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲)
The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities).
Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers.
As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge.
Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above!
RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?"
a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker,
b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing.
NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity.
BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉
Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit!
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX?
Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version.
All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
2 years ago by RNinMunich
Fire Float info.
I have taken a liking to 2 more RAF boats.
One is the 37'-6" Mk 1 and the other is the lovely plumb stemmed Number 153, of which I can find almost no info. (None on 153 but one photo).
On the Fire Float Mk 1, what can be found in the open aft deck area? And what is the object that looks like a folded mast just forward of the single foam monitor?
2 years ago by Westquay
(Tug Boat) ODIN
All, lights, smoke, sound, radar, stern winch, anchor,
all work (Motor: Power 1000) (ESC: electronize) (10/10)
2 years ago by kimbo
(Naval Ship) Sprinkles
Sprinkles is a scratch built U.S. Coast Guard PWB, patrol waterways boat.
Operating features include; searchlight and running lights, revolving blue emergency light, rotating radar, and a water monitor that fires 10-15 feet and can
I studied various styles of water monitors and finally decided on one that is a composite of several types. Bending the tubing was difficult, nozzle was made on Unimat. Power is from Sig "gas passer" pump.
I purchased the rotating beacon on ebay and power is from 5V voltage regulator. (Motor: Electrofly) (ESC: Viper) (10/10)
2 years ago by Commodore-H
Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion
Yep! KISS; Keep it Stupid & Simple!! 😎
Most of my ships have twin or more screws so I need the brackets. But not on my single screw Sea Scout or fish cutter. 😉
Only ever had a water scoop to supply a pump for a
Mostly used to keep little boys fingers at a distance 😁
Up to now have never needed water cooling, at most a fan (ex PC processor fan) for the ESC.
Cheers Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
OK. So it's 4" smaller than the Sea Scout I am currently renovating and upgrading from a 50ies Taycol motor to brushless! So keep the 'stuf' lightweight.
When I asked the same question for the Sea Scout a few months ago I got the following advice from Canabus, who seems to have considerable experience in this field 👍
"All from Hobbyking.
Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery.
ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series.
Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors.
Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch"
I actually opted for a 3 blade prop and a 3S 3000mAh I already had, but bought the ESC and motor recommended and am now fitting them cos it made sense, was not expensive and came pretty quick - make sure it comes from the UK or EU warehouse to avoid possible import tax from Hong Kong or USA !!!
This would be more than adequate to give your boat some Oomph! it needs more than my cabin Cruiser!
For the RC buy a complete set already matched and 'bound' so you have the minimum of fiddling about as a rookie😉
I can thoroughly recommend the Turnigy HT6, AKA TGY-I6 , ~US$45 also from Hobby King. in a couple of hours one evening I could programme two models into it and get it to do what I wanted instead of what the factory thought we would want for plane or chopper!
Instructions are quite clear, logical and lead you through step by step. it comes with a 68 page manual! But much you can skip if you don't intend to go flying with your boat!
Attached is a pic from my manual with German branding (REELY)! But it's the same beast as the TGY-I6, second pic!!
The whole package should cost around a 100quid and you're RTR!
The RC set has 6 channels so you have lots of scope later for special functions;
s, lights, horn, motor noise etc etc 👍
By the way; the motor comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, and of course I only had 4mm 'other halves' but you can also get connectors, loose or fitted to cables and adapters at Hobby King.
(You can solder them on with your 4lb hatchet!!!)
Hope this helps,
Cheers Doug 😎
PS don't forget a suitable coupling to match the 3.17mm motor shaft to your prop shaft (whatever that is, 4mm?)
3 years ago by RNinMunich
Conrad REELY, Flysky iA6, FS iS6, Turnigy HT6 !!
Most of the companies you have mentioned tend to rebadge third party suppliers hardware, and put their own firmware on it. Flysky and Turnigy normally won't work together, but, if you install Turnigy with Turnigy, or Flysky with Flysky, it will work. I have successfully "updated" Turnigy receivers with Flysky firmware updates to enable me to use them with my Flysky Transmitter. My next job is to hack my Flysky GT3-B to increase to 8 channels and ppm transmission, so I can install an 8 channel receiver on my 46" fire tender (sound, directional working
s, etc). Hopefully doing it sometime next week. Progress reports as(or if) I make any 😨 Best wishes, Dave W 😊
3 years ago by rolfman2000
(Fire Boat) Edward . M. Cotter
The real fire boat is stationed in Buffalo New York . This fire boat visits Port Colborne on Lake Erie every year for Canal Days & because the model boat club I'm in sets up a display at the museum in town I decided to build a scratch build of this boat I used the prints of the Sequin Midwest tug for the hull & internet photos for details. I used the tops of Lepages glue bottle to simulate the Monitor on the decks I'm real proud of them. (Motor: Johnson) (8/10)
3 years ago by GARTH
Perhaps if I ever do a refit on this model I might consider working
s but as it was never part of my original plan it would be very difficult to incorporate now.
Besides, I have had my brother doing a little bit more brass turning for me as you will soon see in some forthcoming posts.😉
3 years ago by robbob
They look great your attention to detail is amazing, with this in mind I wonder if you had considered working
s?, from one of your last posts I seem to remember your brother is good with a lathe, keep up the good work it is so interesting, I hope one day to have a go at this build when SWMBO decides to release a bit of cash !!!!
Thanks for a great blog with great ideas, Allen R
3 years ago by allenrod
s are supplied in three pieces that need to be assembled, there is the pedestal, the main body & handles and the discharge nozzle (my descriptions, they may have a proper technical term!) 🤔
Before assembly all the parts were filed smooth, and cleaned with my ‘suede shoe brush’ to remove flash and blemishes and to give a key for subsequent paint.
I felt that just glueing the main body and discharge nozzle together would not be sufficiently strong so I bored out the centre of each and inserted a 4mm threaded stud to pull them together, some threadlock on the stud and then some filler at the join produced a good result. The hole at the end of the discharge nozzle also looks more authentic.
The pedestal was also bored out at both ends, the lower end for a 3mm stud and for a 2mm threaded stud at the upper end.
The arms need to be carefully bent to the correct angle, you only really get one attempt at this as the white metal will not stand repeated bending and will probably fracture quite easily.
I also added a small 'lever arm' feature to the bottom of the pedestal that appears in some photographs of the real item, this was finished with a hand turned brass knob.
The finished parts were sprayed with one coat of grey etch primer, a coat of white primer and finally two coats of Halfords ‘Toolbox Red’ acrylic gloss.
I assembled the two pieces when the paint had hardened and put a dab of red paint on the top fixing nut. The handle ends will also be detailed with some black paint or perhaps some black heat shrink.
3 years ago by robbob
White metal deck fittings.
In between coats of black paint there’s time to prepare more of the white metal deck fittings.
They all require a bit of a clean up to remove casting lines and flash, and this is easy to do with an assortment of small files, blades and a small suede shoe brush with brass wire ‘bristles’.
After a quick clean up with panel wipe I fixed them all to a piece of card with small strips of double sided foam tape to stop them getting blown around by the pressure of the spay can and gave them a couple of light coats of etch primer.
To assemble the anchor I used some 2mm brass rod with some brass ends made from some larger diameter brass rod, drilled and filed to a pleasing profile, a bit of plasticard was added to neaten the pivot point and the assembly was also given a coat of etch primer.
The cooling water outlet tube and flange and the dummy exhaust ports (adapted portholes) were primed also.
They’ll get a coat of black gloss before they are fixed to the stern.
I’ll tackle the
3 years ago by robbob
Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat
Hi, I'm currently in the process of building my first model. it's one of my fathers that has been sat in the loft, kit form for 30 odd years. I have the decals to turn it into a fire boat but I'm struggling to find a suitable monitor to place on the coach house roof. Can you remember where yours came from?
3 years ago by jonbliss152
Tug 'DHB Dauntless'
Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty.
The main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth.
the hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props.
Also fitted is a 12v Graupner water pump for the working
and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba steering servo and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver.
Approx Dimensions including fendering Loa 41" Beam 14"
3 years ago by barnet
Tidied up your Photo Dragon, hope it helps. Was surprised when I downloaded all files in your 10th Nov Response, to find my HMS Duke of York model was featured in File 1930 :-)
3 years ago by Peter47
HI just got Krick working model
No 1562. Has any body else put 1 together. Instruction not as clear as they could be. Any help greatly accepted. Thank you.
4 years ago by akelatheleader
Your welcome take care
3 years ago by dragon
Graupner Tito NerI For Sale
HI everybody, unfortunately I'm having to sell my Tito Neri.The boat has lots of working parts, fully working Shottell drives, bow thruster, working radar and
s. Built to a very high standard, a real show stopper. Fully radio controlled but no transmitter. Kit cost over £1000. Buyer must collect. I would like £600 .Oxfordshire.
6 years ago by terryaki
(Tug Boat) Shell Pioneer
This is my first working RC build but here goes. A bit vauqe about the fiqures because we are still on the slipway. it is scratch built from the Phil Thomas drawing "Shell Pioneer" Twin prop with Kort nozzle steering, bow thruster, working
s and lights. Throtle & steering control via Action Electronics P40E mixer. 2x 2S25C4000mA lipoly's. 6 Ch radio (4 used). draws around 4.5A hope to get 30min run time minimum. Third ESC for bow thruster. (Motor: 2x MFA940051LN) (ESC: 3xViper 15A) (5/10)
4 years ago by marlina2
RAF Crash Tender
It looks great - I am just starting to build one. Do you have any recommendations on the
s? I am going to use Robbe and make them rotate.
Do you find the twin motors too much ?
4 years ago by mbrownhill
46'' RAF CRASH TENDER
If you have no radio gear consider the taranis 16 channels free mixing and excellent range.
Right now you will have no use for that many control functions BUT sooner or later you will want more, ( turning on and off sounds, lights,
s, radar scanners etc.) You could steer the
so it would be possible to sail up to small boys then SQUIRT them !!!!!!
4 years ago by Haverlock
(Tug Boat) ATLANTIC by Aquacraft
Built by Aquacraft...modified with a
...steering turns almost 120 degrees...added sound system...using Futaba radio system 3PL 2.4 ghz (Motor: AQUACRAFT 550) (ESC: MTRONICS VIPER) (9/10)
4 years ago by brokey2
Judging by the included pump he expected to take on water! Has any of the body been chopped out?
Have a look there. I may be wrong but I can think of no other reason to fit a pump from the get go unless a model has a
4 years ago by Haverlock
Modified HegI Fairplay V tug built by My late Father. Mods include bigger 65mm Prop in a brass kort nozzle, working
s, lights, radar, engine sound and grappling hooks to rescue nitro boats. Built 1980-81.
4 years ago by Aquaflite
PCF (Patrol Craft Fast) SWIFT Boat Vietnam Era
UPaul, That's a nice boat - and a nice build.... Don't be shy of asking a decent figure for it, it may be a model but even these can reach high build cost figures.
In 2012 I completed my 46" fire boat after some 14 months work and expenditure of near GBP 2,000! Built using a glass hull the rest is scratch built using copies of Vosper drawings, the vessel is complete with wheelhouse instrumentation & furniture, First-Aid room with bunks, blankets & pillows - & F/Aid Cabinet, steps leading up to deck, on-deck equipment includes working rescue ladder, hoist Derek, boat hook, working
s, stowed life rings, working Nav lights, folding mast, scale Hard Suction Hoses and threaded inlet, Tow hook, Rescue Nets, etc. & Many more small parts, Twin electric propulsion with brass scale exhaust outlets..... and on......
Trying to upload photos but 'drop-down' box covers Submit Changes button!
4 years ago by Aeronut1
(Tug Boat) Neptun
Robbe Kit of harbour tug with
(Motor: MF Como) (ESC: Mtronics) (10/10)
4 years ago by crowsnest
Engine Mount Issues
Removal of the engine block looks tricky if one thinks about chiseling it out but on my 34" that I originally built in 1963 and fitted an ED Sea Otter 3.46 diesel I found that a hot air gun set to V hot and waved around the block got it free within five minutes- without anymore bashing.
I've restored the boat and changed to electric propulsion using Johnson 980 motor... Boat comes 2/3rds out of water to amidships now. Actually I've restored two 34" fireboats and since scratch built the 46" FB but using a fibreglass hull, the 46" job has fitted out wheelhouse, ditto first aid room, working lights and monitors and is powered by two Johnson 980 motors.
4 years ago by Aeronut1
Does this help don't know how to enlarge it
4 years ago by dragon
Arrow models.com show a close up on a Model. But can't find anything else on Google. I built up the Robbe version, they're a bit fiddly, but did it slowly.
4 years ago by Derek
robbe dusseldorf fire boat Wanted
I thank you for your reply but rather pointless not having the monitors working it is a fire boat.
There is a fitting kit for the monitors that is used with two servo's.
4 years ago by dragon
A couple of trial runs went well except for the fact that a small amount of water is getting into the hull. I suspect it was entering through the open ends of the aft sponson support. That's been plugged and we'll see how the next sail goes.
Most wiring has been completed. The picture shows the underside of the deck panel under the
, and the drives for the radar scanner, and for the
, the water pump and the supply hose to the monitor.