Response

Re: Piscataqua river gundalow

BTW Nerys, If it's any consolation - I also used Revel Plastic Putty to fix the final small blemishes on my . Quicker and not so much waste as mixing another batch of polyester filler.😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Problems uploading photos

Mornin' Pete, Thanks👍 I'll be mailing Stephen re photos etc when I get my thoughts coherently together! Some tricky coding / algorithm changes will be needed, and we shouldn't forget that Stephen is still a member of the working society! RE "when are you going to start on HMS Manxman?" My problem is that I'm torn between HMS Manxman, a very complex construction, and my AKULA 2 Submarine! At least the AKULA hull is almost complete, only conning tower detail & scopes to do) and the rest is 'just' 🙄 fitting out; dive tank & electronics etc. I've also temporarily shelved the restorations / conversions of my and a PT Boat. Diverse interests 😉 HELP! What should I do? I really like Manxman as well, since I built the Airfix 1:600 kit as a kid. I read up on her history and became fascinated. Her build will really take time to be able to do her justice. I heartily agree 'Iconic'. I've seen her described as 'The last ship the RN had that LOOKED like a warship'. She survived until 1972 in various guises! Coincidentally the same year as my other RN favourite H class Destroyer HMS Hotspur, also inspired by the ancient (like me!) Airfix kit and reading her history. Inspired me to scale up the 1:600 kit and scratch build a 1:72 version when I was about fifteen. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: New Bilde

"knitting 10mm mash is slow" Is that sour mash Catman? Or does knitting it just make you sour?😁😂 Knit one, pearl one, drop one 💥😠😭 What size needle do you use? Joking aside (as if I could😉), nice job, look forward to the detailing cos it could help me with my - new ground for me! Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Billing Boats St Canute Tug Kit

No sweat Richard👍 This site is full of us bin there dun that guys😉 "l had a problem trying to plank the stern of the St Canute so l replaced planks with blocks of balsa" He he!😁 I did exactly the same on the stern of the ancient Billing , Gina 2, I am (slowly🙄) restoring and converting to RC. See pics, there's also a Build Blog on the site. After rough shaping of the block I sealed and hardened the balsa with Deluxe Materials EzeKote resin. Water based so no hardener, no pong and easy to clean the brush with warm water😊 Then used fine polyester filler, the green stuff in the pics, and a rubber sanding block for fine shaping. When done I applied EzeKote to the whole hull. Dried in half an hour outside in the sun. Then fine sanding 240/400 grade, then a coat of grey filler-primer. A little finishing filler on the blemishes which always show up at this stage 😠 gentle sanding with 400/600 wet n dry then on with the white! Patience is the main ingredient though. Good luck and much success👍, Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

What have I got?

Thanks Dodgy👍 Look forward to that. Might try balsa and harden it with EzeKote anyway. Like Martin haven't worked with balsa for years, apart from the new stern for my . And a similar technique worked for my destroyer all those years ago😊 Re water ballast - I'll think about that! Was pondering using the load modules as ballast. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I don't mind doing the cutting out myself, the table fret saw will help there. Besides, I don't know of any equivalent of Maker Space around her.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Work with Balsa wood

Absolutely JB👍 Martin, soon you'll tell the hard from the soft by just looking at it. Hard is closer grained with a more compact surface. In the 'old days' they used to colour code on the ends; green for soft, red for hard. Or was it t'other way round? 🙄 Do they still do that? If you don't like the pong of dope (smells like Pear Drops) you can use diluted (with water) EzeKote. That's what I did on the balsa block I used to repair the stern of my ancient . Makes the blocks harder and easy to sculpt for filling in awkward curves at bow and stern. Cutting: the softer the balsa the thinner and sharper the knife (scalpel) or razor saw. Don't press too hard or you'll squash it like a cheesecake😋 Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Resurrection could be possible.

Grrrrr😠 Just wrote some text, selected the associated photos and ... ALL TEXT VANISHED GRRRRR! So here we go again!🤔 Just downloaded the Billing Instruction Book. Basic construction is basically the same as the Billing I am currently restoring and converting from static to RC. So have already learned a few tricks in that respect. Booklet includes all dimensions and details of the mast parts and spars so no problem there either. Masts and spars can be easily tapered from dowels on the mini lathe, or even at a pinch a mini drill clamped in a bench vice. So no insurmountable problems there, I hope😉 All the decoration and twiddly bits is another kettle of steamed fish though 😮 Are the fittings still there? See 3rd pic. We'll see. maybe Colin finds a local taker!? Kit seems to date from the early 80's. Just like my ancient Gina 2. Blog of my hull restoration for that is on this site😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Propeller direction.

Which is the leading edge?😮 Attached info from Raboesch, one of the best brass prop makers I know. Serve my warships, and Sea Scout very well 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Matches what I saw on various GA drawings during my work on ship comms systems😉

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Reversing Field-Wound motors

That's what I intend to do Dodgy, with my Target. If I'm happy with it I'll fit it to my . As you say it eliminates the voltage drop across the diodes, and also the heat generated in the bridge👍 @ Colin-H; if you like I'll send you one to replace the rectifier version you have? Cheers, Doug

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Puffer build

Hi Dave, You might take a look at the weathering paint and wash sets available from LifeColor. See attached catalogue. It also contains hints and tips for application. See page 10 in particular; rust, salt streaks, deck and detail washes etc. I've bought the Rust set but haven't had the guts to try it yet. Candidates are my Destroyer, U-Boat and tug. When / IF I get the hang of it then on to HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Think I'll practise on some spare plasticard first!! Good luck 🤞 Doug

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Refit Irishman to Yorkshireman tugboat

" It had had at least 4 coats of paint the latest being done by what looked like a plasterer." Funny that Rogal! I had exactly the same situation with the restoration / conversion of an ancient Billing Boats , the Gina 2. Dave-M actually said he thought it looked like it had been plastered! 😮 Pics show the wreck I started with and where I'm at. Paint finish in last pic is actually Arctic White, lighting and camera makes it look very off white!😮 Oh well! She'd been at sea for a while 😁 You can follow my 'trail' in my Build Blog at https://model-boats.com/blogs/43305 I am also converting Gina from the original static model to RC. I restored a period (50s) Taycol Target motor to go in her. Pic 3. The Taycol came from the Sea Scout 'Jessica' that my Dad built in the early 60s. My Blog of restoring her is also on this site. Similar techniques used😉 https://model-boats.com/blogs?q=Jessica Happy restoring, it's sometimes frustrating but in the end very rewarding.😊 I also have an ELCO PT Boat under similar restoration and refit/upgrade. (No blog as yet!) Good luck with your venture 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Veronica build. London sailing barge

Hi Ken, First I would sand to shape more so you won't need so much filler. If the filler is too thick it may be more prone to rattling out with knocks and vibration. When I did the 'orrible 'ull on the I inherited I first sanded to shape as close as I could. I had already beefed up the hull by applying FG tissue and Ezekote on the inside, just in case it might fall apart on removing the 1/16" or so of ancient oil based paints.😮 When happy with the form I applied wood sealer. THEN filler, then Ezekote resin AFTER the filler was fully hardened and sanded back. This ensures that the filler is fully sealed in and the hull watertight. If you apply the filler over the resin it may be more prone to 'coming unstuck' 😭 Here my Blog so far on the cutter restoration and conversion from static to RC. https://model-boats.com/blogs/43305#43307 Pics attached show what I had to start with 🤔 Current status and how I got there in the Blog. Happy filling, cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer

Hi Haig, Be a while til I get around to building one. Still at the planning / info & pic gathering stage. For 'practice' I have a 1/350 kit of Z30. Before building one at 1/72 I need to get my and PTB renovations finished. Next on the list is the Deans 1/96 HMS Manxman. After that my Akula II kit! Right now I'm occupied sorting out some Brexit issues with the German authorities.☹️ My residents permit needs to be 'Retitled' apparently.🤔 Some detail of your 'modules' could be useful, how about a short Blog or 'How To'?? All the best, Doug 😎 PS Great pic👍 The originals apparently did that as well, too much top weight. On many ships the twin 150mm mounts were swapped for single mounts to reduce this.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

hull trouble on vintage yacht

Why would that be Colin? Suitably flattened off with wet n dry and then primed there shouldn't be any problem! At least I never had any. Mind you, I personally prefer to use the Deluxe Ezekote (Ezecote?) It has several advantages over epoxy:- One part so no messy mixing No rushing about if you put too much hardner in😮 Water based so no 'orrible pong and no rock hard brushes😆 just wash 'em out with warm water😉 Dries and can be sanded and primed in 20 - 30 minutes. That's what I've done with the wooden hulls of my Sea Scout, and PTB and it's worked a treat. Cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

hull trouble on vintage yacht

Hi Jacko, Colin's dead right I'm afraid🤔 If you only seal the inside, to stop water entering the hull, water can still soak into the wood from the real problem outside. The wood will then start to rot! On my I used EzeKote (Deluxe Materials) with FG tissue on the inside. The several coats of Ezekote on the outside. I had previously found any leaks or weak (thin) spote in the hull by shining a bright light inside it. Good luck🤞 Cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Painting

Hi Peter, sorry for late answer, been a bit distracted lately🤔 I guess it's to due with the pigment used and the fact that being white it doesn't filter out any of the colour wavelengths of light, as coloured paints do. I always use a white primer and/or undercoat. As I did in the white cabin of my Sea Scout, and recently also the hull of the I'm renovating and converting. I see that you are using generous dollops of 'the secret ingredient' in your painting👍 Nice work, you must have quite a fleet by now! Cheers Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich