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    Re: Refit Irishman to Yorkshireman tugboat
    " It had had at least 4 coats of paint the latest being done by what looked like a plasterer." Funny that Rogal! I had exactly the same situation with the restoration / conversion of an ancient Billing Boats
    fish cutter
    , the Gina 2. Dave-M actually said he thought it looked like it had been plastered! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ Pics show the wreck I started with and where I'm at. Paint finish in last pic is actually Arctic White, lighting and camera makes it look very off white!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Oh well! She'd been at sea for a while ๐Ÿ˜ You can follow my 'trail' in my Build Blog at https://model-boats.com/blogs/43305 I am also converting Gina from the original static model to RC. I restored a period (50s) Taycol Target motor to go in her. Pic 3. The Taycol came from the Sea Scout 'Jessica' that my Dad built in the early 60s. My Blog of restoring her is also on this site. Similar techniques used๐Ÿ˜‰ https://model-boats.com/blogs?q=Jessica Happy restoring, it's sometimes frustrating but in the end very rewarding.๐Ÿ˜Š I also have an ELCO PT Boat under similar restoration and refit/upgrade. (No blog as yet!) Good luck with your venture ๐Ÿ‘ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    13 days ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Veronica build. London sailing barge
    Hi Ken, First I would sand to shape more so you won't need so much filler. If the filler is too thick it may be more prone to rattling out with knocks and vibration. When I did the 'orrible 'ull on the
    fish cutter
    I inherited I first sanded to shape as close as I could. I had already beefed up the hull by applying FG tissue and Ezekote on the inside, just in case it might fall apart on removing the 1/16" or so of ancient oil based paints.๐Ÿ˜ฎ When happy with the form I applied wood sealer. THEN filler, then Ezekote resin AFTER the filler was fully hardened and sanded back. This ensures that the filler is fully sealed in and the hull watertight. If you apply the filler over the resin it may be more prone to 'coming unstuck' ๐Ÿ˜ญ Here my Blog so far on the cutter restoration and conversion from static to RC. https://model-boats.com/blogs/43305#43307 Pics attached show what I had to start with ๐Ÿค” Current status and how I got there in the Blog. Happy filling, cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    14 days ago by RNinMunich
    (Pleasure Craft) ''Jessica'' A Sea Scout renovation
    Originally built by my Dad in the early sixties, fitted then with a Taycol Target and two very wet lead acid accumulators. First renovation about 26 years ago for my daughter Jessica, fitted with a 6V Decaperm. Performance was VERY sedate. Perhaps fitting for a Broads Cruiser? The Taycol will now go into the Danish
    fish cutter
    I am currently renovating. First two pics show her condition, incl. engine room, last year after about 25 years in the cellar. Last three pictures show current condition after extensive renovation, see 'Build Blog Jessica' and refit. Video shows her Sea Trial end of May https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw Now just cockpit fit to do and suitable crew to find. Can't 'select' Speed here as she wasn't equipped with GPS! But quick! Now she planes well so I guess I've turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat!? Rating I also can't select for myself, that's something for you guys to do! ;-) (Motor: Propdrive 2830 1000kV) (ESC: Quikrun 16BL30 Hobbywing) (5/10) Update: Crew have reported for duty๐Ÿ˜‰
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer
    Hi Haig, Be a while til I get around to building one. Still at the planning / info & pic gathering stage. For 'practice' I have a 1/350 kit of Z30. Before building one at 1/72 I need to get my
    fish cutter
    and PTB renovations finished. Next on the list is the Deans 1/96 HMS Manxman. After that my Akula II kit! Right now I'm occupied sorting out some Brexit issues with the German authorities.โ˜น๏ธ My residents permit needs to be 'Retitled' apparently.๐Ÿค” Some detail of your 'modules' could be useful, how about a short Blog or 'How To'?? All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Great pic๐Ÿ‘ The originals apparently did that as well, too much top weight. On many ships the twin 150mm mounts were swapped for single mounts to reduce this.
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    hull trouble on vintage yacht
    Why would that be Colin? Suitably flattened off with wet n dry and then primed there shouldn't be any problem! At least I never had any. Mind you, I personally prefer to use the Deluxe Ezekote (Ezecote?) It has several advantages over epoxy:- One part so no messy mixing No rushing about if you put too much hardner in๐Ÿ˜ฎ Water based so no 'orrible pong and no rock hard brushes๐Ÿ˜† just wash 'em out with warm water๐Ÿ˜‰ Dries and can be sanded and primed in 20 - 30 minutes. That's what I've done with the wooden hulls of my Sea Scout,
    fish cutter
    and PTB and it's worked a treat. Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    hull trouble on vintage yacht
    Hi Jacko, Colin's dead right I'm afraid๐Ÿค” If you only seal the inside, to stop water entering the hull, water can still soak into the wood from the real problem outside. The wood will then start to rot! On my
    fish cutter
    I used EzeKote (Deluxe Materials) with FG tissue on the inside. The several coats of Ezekote on the outside. I had previously found any leaks or weak (thin) spote in the hull by shining a bright light inside it. Good luck๐Ÿคž Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Painting
    Hi Peter, sorry for late answer, been a bit distracted lately๐Ÿค” I guess it's to due with the pigment used and the fact that being white it doesn't filter out any of the colour wavelengths of light, as coloured paints do. I always use a white primer and/or undercoat. As I did in the white cabin of my Sea Scout, and recently also the hull of the
    fish cutter
    I'm renovating and converting. I see that you are using generous dollops of 'the secret ingredient' in your painting๐Ÿ‘ Nice work, you must have quite a fleet by now! Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich

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