Blog

105ft Motor Minesweeper

I am currently fiddling about with 3D printers and as it is high time I built another boat I am going to combine the two hobbies and make the decks superstructure and some on my 3D printers, a Prusa i3 Mk2S and a Tronxy X5S. So far the results are encouraging. The model is based on a 105ft Motor Minesweeper, a wooden harbour/coastal sweeper. About 300 were built and saw service throughout WW2. My example carries the LL magnetic influence sweep but proved under powered for the task and many were converted to carry an acoustic 'kango' hammer for dealing with acoustic mines.

5 years ago by Nickthesteam

Blog

a yacht yet to get a name

As usual it is a long interval since last up date but some progress has been made on the Valsheda and I attached some pics that had to be done indoors as it is a bit wet from the sky outside. I have finished the decking and basic painting of hull also started lime planking of deck to bring into line with decking. Have worked out positions of winches on deck and obtained stock of brass rod at a sensible price from a local scrap yard. I have to produce some drawings of winches and get into production and have found someone who can plate them with a bright finish near to stainless steel. The Management of the Bristol Aero Collection has recently sacked me as a volunteer for being too critical of them so I will have more time to get on with the boat and with rising temperatures the garage is a bit more comfortable. With the warmer weather coming I will soon have to think about the manucture of the carbon fibre mast, has anyone else made one and can give me some guidance ? I am thinking of a timber core with a woven fibre tube covering. Also thinking of how to attach main sail to mast.

8 years ago by nasraf

Forum

New Smoke Generators

HI to all, I hope everyone had a good Christmas... I have started a new line of smoke generators here In Australia, At the moment I have 2 sizes available and more on the drawing board. These new units will run on 12 volts and draw about 1 amp using oil based fluid. Two Sizes SG-1 80 x 45 x 50mm outlet 1/2" This unit Is design for the smaller craft or small spaces a neat little unit that performs great runs for 25mins on 1 fill of the tank (25mls) $65.00 SG-2 100 x 65 x 60mm outlet 1/2" Designed for the larger boats with a bigger tank and more powerful fan unit runs for 40min on 1 fill of the tank (35mls) $75.00 Both smoke generators can be connected directly to your power supply or to your motor for control of the fan speed ( Just need to make sure your speed controller can handle the extra power) you can set It up for 1 stack or 2 with 1/2" copper pipe from your local Hardware shop.. Kit Includes : 1 x Smoke generator 1 x Smoke fluid (100mls) 1 x wire (300mm) 1 x nuts & washers Check out the short clip of the smoke generator SG-1 at youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3vpE0-ovlA or on my website www.modelboatsand.com email: *Removed, PM Only - Admin*

13 years ago by shane

Blog

Acrylic Rudders, Oh My!

Today I also worked on one of her rudders! The new rudders are made of Acrylic Plastic! They used to be made of brass! Its very time consuming assembling them! First you have to take apart the Acrylic pieces! Be very careful! It splinters easily! It's almost like working with glass! Oh, It helps to have Acrylic Glue! You can't use any other glue. But that's made for Acrylic Plastic! I had purchased to different viscosities! As I wasn't sure which to use! I ended up using the thin viscosity I had never worked with Acrylic Plastic! There's a first time for everything! I took all the acrylic pieses. I put them on a piece of tape. So the tape could hold the pieces in place! I then ran the glue across the pieces! You have to make sure the pieces. Are tight to each other! The glue starts to hold within a few minutes! It'll take 24 to 48 hour for the glue to fully set! I have one completed and one to go! I am currently working on purchasing. The old kit which comes with the brass rudders! I decided to assemble the Acrylic Rudders to show. What they look like! I find them to be weak in design! And look forward to getting the Brass ones! This is what's holding me up! See the rudder post are high in the hull. And you also have to tighen up. A small nut that holds the rudder in place! It would be some what difficult to reach. After the deck it laid! So, for now I'll work on a few things! Once I have recieved the Brass rudders. It'll be full steam ahead!

4 years ago by figtree7nts

Link

Mastman Models

3d Printed Model Boat

4 years ago by mastman

Blog

36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob

After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

The Kent windscreen, some small cabin & deck .

Continuing to add detail to the model, the two white metal fairleads supplied with the kit were cleaned up with a file, sprayed with an etch primer and painted gunmetal grey to match the bollards. They are fixed to the deck with a brass pin and a dab of epoxy and the pin head blended in with a spot of gunmetal grey. The Kent windscreen was made in a similar way as the one on my fireboat, the outer ring is a small slice of 20mm plastic conduit that was further reduced in thickness on my sanding plate and then painted black. The screen was shaped from some clear perspex and fixed into the ring with some canopy glue. I used a 2mm brass bolt as the centre fixing, the head of the bolt rounded to a dome in my makeshift lathe, this was also painted black. The whole assembly was then fixed into the port windscreen with the bolt, no additional glue is necessary. The front sliding window on the starboard side is held in the closed position by a small threaded brass ‘stud’ with a ring on the head while the window on the port side is intended to slide back to an open position so another stud was fitted further back. This is to allow access to an internal cabin feature that I’m developing😉. Two slightly larger studs were fixed to the front of the cabin on each side and a further two fixed into the deck near the rear of the cabin. All of these brass came from RB Model in Poland. https://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=001 The last two pictures are of the model that's in the National Maritime Museum that I'm using as a reference for detailing.

4 years ago by robbob

Forum

Painting over epoxy

I have used several Halfords Aerosol spray cans on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of paint on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then paint then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their paints range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic . Boaty😎

5 years ago by boaty

Forum

Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50

"... I dare say that with the necessary computer skills it probably would be easier,however it would be quite difficult for me to hold cardboard templates against a monitor screen. The whole ethos of what I do is somewhat Luddite in nature,to use basic tools,free materials and as little technology as possible...." I'm not sure where the cardboard template comes in? if you want to put it into a computer you use a scanner - if you want to take it out you use a printer. They are usually the same machine... I'm not dissimilar to a Luddite - the KK EeZeBilt sites are all about making things from raw materials and using household detritus to create . But computers are just another tool - and can be as basic as you like. I still lament the passing of DOS, because I felt that you should understand how tools work before you use them, and Windows made it impossible to know where all the bits were going... One advantage of computing technology is communication. You are illustrating this at the moment. All I was thinking was that your skills, experience and work could reach a much wider group of people. There are, for instance, kids in Australia building EeZeBilts because the data to do so is on the web: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAHJbJieV0o

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Painting white metal

Good evening Can someone advise me on the correct method to paint white metal , the I have, had been painted several times,so I have scrapped the layers off down to bare metal,do I have to prime or can I brush paint straight on. Which is best enamel or acrylic. Thanks Roger

5 years ago by Rogal118

Forum

Painting white metal

Hi Roger, Metal of any kind and white metal figures can be painted with either Humbrol type paint (enamel) or Acrylic paint,both will need their own primer, but remember😱. you can paint enamel over acrylic, but not the other way (acrylic over enamel). Most of the I get in my Deans Marine warships are white metal and resin, I use Halfords plastic primer (grey or white) then use acrylic paint from various company's to finish off. Hope this is of some help to you.😊 cheers Peter👍

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Good buy from Lidl

Hi just bought the same, great bit of kit for shaping and sanding,I also bought the mini grinder for £16 with an assortment of collets and attachments, then I noticed an extra pack with hundreds of and wheels in for £12. What value I was so impressed I bought another cordless grinder to save changing all the time,and guaranteed for 3 years. Ps NO I don't work for lidl. All the best Roger👍

5 years ago by Rogal118

Directory

(Other) Lady Marian

This Drifter was a Marvon Models Kit and was incredible value for the money, a double planked plank on frame hull, and detailed instructions and good quality timber and . As the engine was a four-stroke and silenced, plus the fact it was ticking over at very few revs, it made less noise than your average electric motor. Plus we were not trying too hard to save the planet in those good old days. (Motor: OS. 6.5cc Marine 4 stroke.) (ESC: servo controlled) (10/10)

5 years ago by GaryLC

Directory

(Tug Boat) Anteo Harbour Tug

My first ever Tug about fifty years ago, and my very first steam engine hence the super-structure looks a little hacked about, especially the engine housing with globe valves stuck out here and there. this was and still is an amazing kit from Panart, a plank on frame double skinned hull, and all the were brass to a very high quality, (note the anchor winch all brass and it works. The engine and boiler was from Maxwell Hemmings one of the very few manufacturers at the time. (Motor: Piston Valve Twin Cylinder) (ESC: Servo controlled) (10/10)

5 years ago by GaryLC

Response

PS Iona - misc

Thanks for the compliments! it's been a good project, just adding the final touches a couple of days ago. One bonus about paddle steamers is they don't usually take on water as the paddle shafts are above the water line👍

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Response

PS Iona - misc

I like the detailed photos, looks good, I have been looking for some witches so thanks for the info. Overall I enjoyed seeing the build as it is something very different from what I normally do. Congratulations on a nice build. Cheers, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

tvr steam engine

Hello all and to Gary I' m looking for the tread size for the ports of the TVR steam engine are they 1/4 32 or 1/4 40 as I want to order in advance of my building the engine . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

tvr steam engine

Hi Rick, and I am hoping this helps, the inlet and exhaust manifolds on the engine have no included for you to screw onto, the connecting end is just a plain 1/8" brass pipe, so you need to silver-solder your fitting to suit. I have included a photo which hopefully will help. you are going to need some elbows (90* bends) and maybe a Tee piece or two, globe valves and the pipe to put it all together, plus a condenser to collect and separate the exhaust waste steam. My condenser is simply a piece of 2" brass pipe, I can do you some piping diagrams for you if this helps, or send me a plan of how you are going to connect it all together. The end result will be worth it I promise. Regards, Gary. Hang on in there I have every confidence.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

Being Sociable.

Hi Gary It is snowing here and I'm hold up thinking of what I will need for my steam engine assembly. Pipe sizes and and thread sizes and the one thing I forgot to order was the fly wheel so I'm going to order from the site I got the engine from do you know of another spot I might look to get a fly wheel . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

RC steam lever

Hi Gary I just should have ask you from here what thread size are the ports for the tvr engine are they 1/4 32 or 1/4 40 thread I want to order in advance of the build. Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Blog

PS Iona - misc

A bit of a miscellany here - the funnel or mounts at the top are 3D printed and the 'rope' is some sort of elastic string used in jewellery making. This... 1) keeps it straight which is difficult with regular string or wire, 2) doesn't get damaged when you catch it with a stray arm, tool, etc. Brass steam turned on my lathe. The forward hatch was built in case extra ballast was needed, but has had a beneficial side effect. No ballast was needed and the hatch is filled with foam, so I can wedge in a mini tripod and mount a camera up front. Only briefly tested but looks promising The windlass is a kit from mobile marine models. Easy to construct and looks the part. Tow hook 3D printed.

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Forum

Aeronaut Pilot Boat

Hi Peter. I have competed the hull and tested motors which are running OK. Whilst setting up the Servo etc for the Rudder Control, I found the very fiddly to connect (and that is without the Deck fitted). Moving on, I am considering what can/should be done to enable slight adjustments to the Rudders etc. when the Deck is fixed. All very tight to get into that area. Has anyone had this problem and found an answer? Thanks. Ron

5 years ago by RonW

Forum

RC steam lever

Hi Rick, yes Clevedon Steam is where I get a lot of and stuff from, and another one is Macmodels, plus they sell the TVR1 BB steam engine which I use. if you don't manage to post a few photo's soon, I am sending you a camera for Christmas. Regards, Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

RC steam lever

Rick, it's myself yet again, and having been involved with steam for at least the last FORTY YEARS, I can answer most of your problems and help. Google CLEVEDON STEAM here in the U/K and this guy can help you with all the steam you may require. Look for lever operated valves via servo, you could use this valve for a throttle valve, (steam control) or a gas cutoff valve. if you have any problems get in touch I am here to help. Regards , Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Media

IRC 88 stock maritime (robbe sirius)

refitted Robbe Sirius IRC 88 (by stock maritime) completely new electronics and , resprayed in 2k polyurethane topcoat

5 years ago by Smaragd

Blog

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Winter seems to encourage modeling, have spent many hours in hibernation working on the deck and superstructure details. A supplier offers a full set of Perkasa , most of which would work on the Brave B. At one point considered buying a set. They are made in both resin and cast metal. Eventually parsimony prevailed, so only purchased a small number of hatch covers and other intricate shapes that would be difficult to make well. The items duly arrived and the quality is good. Was surprised by the weight though, so am pleased had embarked on making the other items from the usual materials. There should be an overall weight saving, along with a reduction in my surplus styrene and wood stock. One of the design tenants of the Brave class was flexibility. The vessel could operate as a MTB, MGB or Raider, or with a mixture of these capabilities. The weapon mountings were designed to allow armaments to be installed and moved around to suite the requirements of the role. Have reviewed many Brave class photographs trying to establish a “standard” armament configuration, to reproduce. Not only does the configuration define the weapons installed, it also establishes the ammunition and flare storage cabinet arrangements. Eventually decided upon the 2 x 40mm Bofors gun arrangement with 2 x 21” torpedoes and 4 x extended range fuel tanks. The model is now essentially complete. No doubt as I keep examining it will add further small details and refinements. Only disappointment so far is that it does not achieve the original weight target of 6 lbs, it is 9.5 lbs. The 6 lbs may possibly have achievable using one screw and motor etc., but once three are installed, not likely. The real test is when finally back on the water. Will close this blog then with a concluding report.

5 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

I have the hull. I have the from battlecraft and excellent they are too. I also have 4 brass props plus the A frames. All i need is the time a space to start this build. First i need a larger shed. Too much work and no play! makes Jack a dull boy😊

5 years ago by andyhynes

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

I have looked at the bag of white metal and I do not even have the mast it shows. Trouble is I bought it so long ago now at the show, didn't get a receipt when I paid for it so I cannot exactly do anything now. Too long ago.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Blog

Slow going ...

After building the mine laying rails I then purchased scale German mines , only to find out that they are 4mm wider than the rails on the boat, ...what to do , cut the mines (8) down and rework the base and wheels to fit the boats rails or move the rails wider ..... moving the rails ... slow going , found that the motors I have are more aircraft/drone use per the esc, , no reverse .... Hobbyking does have esc that will work , still need a couple of servos and a radio , just not sure if a 6 Chanel land/ boat radio or get a large channel stick radio would be better ... as always $$$$ is an issue . Work on the messy table as I fit cut and replace and supports ... Smooth sailing to all... Bill G

5 years ago by BW3

Response

Sea Queen

Roger.com, I am not so sure about being less detail on a Norfolk Broads Cruiser. I have a small 21ft fibre glass hulled boat in Potter Heigham on the Broads. But when you see the older wooden Broads Cruisers they have lots of detail especially the ones that get cared for as they should being wooden built. Some of them are so beautiful and well varnished polished brass, Chrome and well groomed. if I could afford a wooden cruiser and be able to keep her in the fashion she should be kept then I would. But if I win the lottery then I will have one. Even the old wooden sailing yacht's are kept in wonderful condition and lots of detail brass etc.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Response

Fast Patrol Boat

Hi BOATSHED, The wooden block is screwed and araldited ti the keel and supports an Aluminium bracket designed for holding a Brushless motor in an Aeroplane, use what’s available I always say. The coupling is Silicon tube fitted to brass universal coupling and because the way brushless run is very quiet compared to a normal Unversal Joint assembly. Will post it running shortly. Thanks for you interest. Graham

5 years ago by jelley_baby

Forum

Book on Sailing Barges

There are many excellent books on Thames Sailing Barges, but for the modeller, I think 'Handbook of Sailing Barges' by F.S.Cooper and John Chancellor is one of the best. Fred Cooper was a well known Barge Skipper, John Chancellor, a former Merchant Navy Officer, lived with his family on the sailing barge Viper for many years. An accomplished artist, he illustrated this book with excellent line drawings of every aspect of the rig, deck and construction details. There are usually copies for sale on Amazon and Abe Books. Nerys

5 years ago by Nerys

Forum

internet sales

Totally agree with all points mentioned👍, another way is to make a note of the things you need, now and in the future i.e. glue, ,paint etc, and then visit the model boat shows advertised around the UK, some are close, others not, for me I like Doncaster show, Haydock and Blackpool, going to shows allows you to choose from various traders and cherry pick the bits you want, it works for me along with the internet for items wanted NOW! cheers Peter😊

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

How to make Deck ?

What deck does this boat require? I have no plans, pictures, or related information. Location of . What you see is what I figure makes since. I know some railings and stairs are to scale, but it was what I had to work with without making major investments. Lifeboats have been carved and davits will be done soon.

5 years ago by Ronald

Blog

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it. The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl, wanted to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – inshallah! To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures. What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood. On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth. Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made. Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate. A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.

5 years ago by Rowen

Blog

Elizabeth Cabin/superstructure

The cabin has now been finished off with a well deck, the well deck is made of balsa mostly, and the floor is oly, the well deck floor is lined as planks ( urghh ), firstly scored with a blunt Stanley type knife blade the the plank lines infilled with pencil, the floorboard nail marks are just scored with a sharp pin with a little cyno rubbed in the hole to colour the pin prick, decided to make this as an all in one removal unit, it still has to be glazed and plus furniture, as in windscreen , door's consul etc: .. The deck and all other woodwork has been varnished and the cabin roof painted white, awaiting suitable weather to paint the hull, as this is done outdoors.. Muddy....

5 years ago by muddy

Forum

Mast

I've sailed and re-rigged small full scale yachts and catamarans all my life and never seen a fitting like that. Perhaps it was put there as a halyard or stay 'tidy' for storage purposes? looks more like an upside down boat cover tie down clip or part of a latch. Perhaps try the door and lock section at your local hardware super store. Found this on google. As the other guys have said though, probably hand made. Usually, no rigging on yachts have square edges unless they are part of a fitting.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Mast

Can anyone tell me the technical name for the hook-like piece of metal on this mast and where to buy one from? It's approximately 24mm long by 6mm wide. I've tried searching for forestay hooks and jib hooks but nothing seems to come close to a match.

5 years ago by unknowndna

Forum

Mast

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll probably try and find a two horn cleat like you suggested, though finding one I can blind screw in at two points is proving a little more difficult. Like you said, it's looking like a handmade fixture. I suspect the whole boat, including all the fixtures were hand made. The joys of buying second hand.

5 years ago by unknowndna

Forum

Mast

I'm in the process of researching running and standing rigging for a boat of mine. I've not seen one of those anywhere so I suspect it is hand made. Closest i've seen. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=fitting%20forestay&PN=CAP%2dMaquettes%2dMetal%2dFitting%2dMast%2d23mm%2dCMG400%2ehtml#SID=2131

5 years ago by steve-d

Forum

Mast

Looks like a simple 'Jam cleat', roughly half a normal Horn cleat. On a mast a form of Shroud cleat. Look in the section of any good model shop, e.g. Cornwall Model Boats. if all else fails just buy a normal two horn cleat and saw/file one horn off. Simple enough to make though. 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mast

Thanks, that's great, but doesn't answer the question at all. Your lovely diagram fails to note the metal hook above the spreader on my photo and it's that that I would like to know the technical name of and where to buy them.

5 years ago by unknowndna

Forum

Mast

Hope this helps I no expert but wikipedia explains it. Standing rigging on a fore-and-aft rigged sailboat. Key: 1. Forestay 2. Shroud 3. (Spreaders) 4. Backstay 5. inner forestay 6. Sidestay 7. (Boom) 8. Running backstays

5 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

The wheelhouse navigation light.

This is a small item but very visible on the wheelhouse and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used Futaba servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other at a later stage.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob

Rookeysailor. The kit is, I understand, due for release by Vintage Model Works any time now. I think that they are awaiting some of the white metal from the manufacturer that are included in the kit. RE: price, probably best to contact Mike Cummings at VMW to confirm the above and the pricing. rolfman2000. I'm afraid you'll still need to carve the bow, but I bet you can get a better result than uncle Cyril now! I hope you enjoy my blog. Robbob.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....

I just got a lovely old Star SY 3 yacht and needed to clean some filthy sails. My wife suggested Vanish and blow me down with a genoa, it's working. A generally mid to dark grey (I believe oil based) grubbiness has all but disappeared and I should be able to re-rig them with some new off white 1.3mm string from Caldercraft at Cornwall Model Boats. I can make new styrene bowsies and any metal hooks and loops. I've scraped the mast and bowsprit of rust until they look shiny again, repaired a broken mast and repainted the green edging which had been a bit knocked about. I love doing these restorations more than making new stuff! Martin

5 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....

I think Hydrogen Peroxide is the active ingredient in Vanish and the like. it is regarded as "The Safe Bleach" in the cleaning products industry. it remains active on cleaned surfaces for up to 72 hrs.Hypochlorite types only for as long as you can smell them. it is safe to use on just about any surface or fabric and mixed with a small amount of say washing up liquid it will clean body fats from baths and showers and other fats from cookers and work surfaces. Also removes mould etc. it produces no toxic fumes and is safe on the skin. I worked for a company called Environmental Chemicals who were devoted to safer cleansing alternatives. You would be amazed at it's effect on a previously washed bread board. I won't list all they made but the one with the HP in it was very popular with industry and the public. I could identify most of their chemicals used by smell and Hydrogen Peroxide was one. Well not so much a smell but it's action on my nasal passages. Likewise with gas fire and boiler fumes. A very handy thing to have when I was plumbing/gas fitting. Anyway back to the point. You can bleach your sails safely with it as often as you like to make them as white (or_ grey) as you like. it also shifts grime from painted/varnished wood and metals. A mention was made by someone (Westie ?)of metal masts etc on a star Yacht. I thought all Star yachts had all wooden masts and spars. I knew the Denyes.Jean-Jacques in particular and was allowed into the hallowed halls once or twice but didn't see everything. I was told that after the war wood was in short supply and old mangle rollers that were made with apple wood were sought and used . I am waiting to get back on my feet to restore the two yachts I was given for my two boys at that time.Around '67/68. Only the smaller unnamed ones. I don't know what no they are. I've already made a mast for one but all metal will need cutting out afresh and new suits of sails acquired. Regarding sails. Handkerchiefs are too fine a material to allow recovery in a blow down. They don't allow the water out so keep the yacht flat. Anyone know of an alternative solution? Sorry to go on but I hope this diatribe has been helpful to someone.👍

5 years ago by onetenor

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HMS M.33

That's neat all the plastic tray compartments for the .

5 years ago by steve-d

Forum

HMS M.33

Good luck Steve, Know exactly what you mean about both biting the bullet (Deans kit prices!) and space! Earlier this year I bought the Deans kit for HMS Manxman, one of the Abdiel class fast Minelayer / Cruisers. Had been fascinated by this ship since I built the Airfix 1/600 version as a kid and read about her history on the Malta resupply runs and minelaying at Genoa, where I have recently worked with the Fincantieri shipyard. She's my main winter project,WHEN I have some bench space available, she's about 1.5m LoA!! I must say though, the kits aren't cheap but pretty comprehensive 😊 some fettling of the seem to be necessary though. Bon chance with your Monitor, interesting subject 👍 Look forward to your build blog. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

The weather has quickly turned colder, giving an excuse to get back to this model. Stripped out much of the interior and the prop. shafts to replace the nylon propellers with brass. These items all needed removing for painting, so decided to paint the hull before reassembly and then moving onto the superstructure. Fortunately, examining similar naval vessels and several U Tube videos, confirmed the hull as light grey, the deck a darker one of the 50 shades of grey and the lower hull below the waterline black. Used thin Tamiya masking tape to define clean colour separations, followed by regular tape, masked the hull into colour sections and sprayed using “rattle” cans. After the colours applied a light overall Matt coat to subdue any shine. The results are satisfactory. Will now reassemble and move onto building the superstructure and the other . Prior to the season closing decided to experiment with my new Flysky Tx/Rx package, shortly to be fitted to this model. This Tx has a servo limiting function, which was hoping could also be used to restrict ESC output. Would like to make the full speed motor response correspond to full Tx control position. Currently can over power the model; which lifts the stern, causing it to come off the plane and then dig the bow in. Was thinking that if full throttle could be set at around 90% forward control movement and 40% sternwards the model would retain adequate performance, but without being overpowered or very sensitive to control lever movement. As the Brave was not available, tried the idea on my Daman Stan 4207 model. This is brushed motor powered and a good performer. Obviously the settings for the Brave will be different, but at least could try to see if the idea would work – it did! This Tx function is easy to use and adjustments can be made whilst the model is on the water. Once the ideal settings are achieved they can be programmed and then retained in the Tx. Will try this on the Brave when back on the water next Spring.

5 years ago by Rowen