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    Winch Linkage
    For the linkage system I used 8mm x 1mm brass sheet, the first piece from the servo I tapped a M2 hole at servo end with a
    flat washer
    between the servo this is then adjusted for free movement and secured with a lock nut. Second angle piece had both holes tapped M2 and again fitted with
    flat washer
    and fastened with locknut. The pivot piece I soldered a brass tube in centre as seen in photo also had to add spacer pillar of 10 mm to get correct height as a straight pull on pillar is required so no twist on pivot as with the magnet pull there is a lot of strain hence the reason for upgrading from micro servo to 3kg servo. This is fitted with thick washer and nyloc nut to allow free movement but not sloppy. The final part of the linkage is the most critical this is 2mm brass rod with a long thread for adjustment and ease of fitting, other end is 6mm dia x 2mm thick brass disc also tapped M2 and screwed onto the rod then soldered for for security. Next the two brass pillars one drilled for the rod the other solid both have 1mm shoulders and tapped M2 with the link approx 12mm between centres (may change according to servo movement) on top to move freely on pillars. The hole going through the motor mounting for the rod also tapped M2 with locknuts either side to keep secure. This must be exactly below the centre of the motor shaft to ensure a straight pull from the magnet drum. The operation of servo. When magnet is against chain drum and servo in neutral position inside pillar should be resting against disc on the rod. When servo moves to down position it should pull the the magnet totally free from the chain drum and allow the it to revolve freely the motor at this stage will also turn but if servo is fully over should not affect the free fall. When the servo is returned to neutral position the outside pillar will tap the disc on the rod and the magnet pull draws the magnet drum back home. Now when the servo goes to the raised position the linkage slides along but does not press on disc and the motor will be raising the anchor. Bother motor and servo are connected to same receiver plug. The speed controller allows inching of the anchor as it comes home. Adjusting servo movement on transmitter is not advisable as it will effect motor speed. Best to adjust linkage to get correct. Hope this is all clear any queries with this just ask and I will try to help. Elsrickle
    4 years ago by Elsrickle
    Blog
    Winch detail
    As you can see this is made mostly with printer but am sure could be made with wood or plastic. The base has a slot 8mm wide by 5mm thick a hole 1.8mm goes through it and the sliding motor mount 1.5mm wire is used as guide and holds the mount in place the wire is also held in position with the small keeper block. The mount must be able to slide freely with no tight spots. Pictures show wire in base and on mount. Next chain drum and drive disc have 2.1mm hole all the way through for 2mm brass shaft the 3mm hole drill 10mm deep in drive drum at motor end. The motor then gets fitted on sliding platform. On drive drum face drill 2 holes 6mm Dia and 3mm deep, 180 degs apart for magnets. These are then glued in with a bed of epoxy adhesive as in photo, where the 2mm shaft goes through drill a recess 5mm Dia and 2mm deep for cable drum retaining ring. Also drill a hole 1.5mm Dia about 5mm from end of motor side of drum and tap for M2 grub screw for holding motor shaft. Now fix drum on to motor. At chain drum side cut a thin piece of tin and glue to face of drum this I used super glue and a mall brass nail fitted for a bit of extra security as in photo. Two 1mm holes drilled through the centre length of the drum very close to the outside diameter and clear of centre shaft. A piece of copper wire can be fed through one hole the chain link fed through the copper wire and the wire is fed through the other hole then the two twisted together or soldered to hold chain in centre of drum. Now 2mm brass rod is pushed through the drum ( I fitted 2 x 2mm
    flat washer
    s at this point between mounting bracket and chain drum to ensure the drum did not rub on bracket) making sure sure the drum spins very freely the rod is pushed through the hole in the motor drum until it meets the motor shaft then push hard to slide the motor to end stop. Now slowly push motor forward towards the chain drum (fully open gap between drum 7-10mm) when fully home fit holding sleeve on brass rod at outside of bracket and tighten grub screw this should give the correct length for rod. Now push motor back to end and make sure shaft is still in motor drum. If not adjust until it is still in shaft Next push chain drum back against washers and shaft pushed towards motor make a saw cut in brass rod to mark drum position now remove shaft and make a brass ring to fit tightly on saw cut on shaft and solder then clean all solder from chain drum side of shaft refit and check drum still runs freely adjust as required when sure cut off brass rod as photo The base I made is 120 x 50mm x 5mm, chain drum 30mm x 25mm Dia, mountings were 28mm high x20mm wide. Will continue with linkage setup next. Any questions or ideas please feel free to let me know.
    4 years ago by Elsrickle


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